Yeah... Make sure it takes at least 60 seconds for the voltage at the battery to fall below 12.0v after you turn the headlights on - with the engine off. Battery should start at around 12.6 volts...falling slowly. Can't remember if this is for high or low beams, but you get the idea. If the voltage falls quickly...start looking for battery specials. This test assumes you have a competent charging system. ---------- >From: Derek Drew <drew@INTERPORT.NET> >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: Test equipment--"Official VW multimeter" >Date: Wed, Sep 29, 1999, 11:46 AM > > Excellent point, care to post a cheap method to perform a load test? > > One would then use the MultiMeter to make sure the battery was at 12.6 (OK, > 12.5 for a used battery) to make sure that the battery was at full charge > before running the load test. With some old batteries, I find that they top > out at 12.44 volts and I notice that I have become suspicious about their > health when they cannot deliver 12.5 volts after burning off surface charge. > > At 04:28 PM 9/29/99 +0000, you wrote: >>What is the difference if the battery reads 12 V or 12.1 V. Not much. >> The most important thing is the amount of current you can draw. A >>bad battery may still show 12 V, but if the Voltage goes to zero when >>under load then it is no good. >> >>Pat N8VW >>84 GL > > _______________________________________________ > Derek Drew New York, NY > CEO, ConsumerSearch > drew@interport.net > > 212-580-6486 > 917-848-6425 (cell; this phone is a reliable way to reach me fast or to > leave messages) > > Alternate numbers for the industrious phone caller that wants to try every > avenue: 202-966-7907 (Work), 212-580-4459 (Home), 202-966-0938 (Home) > |
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