Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 17:13:35 -0700
Reply-To: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: How to check motor mounts, second request.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
From my experience, the rear ones are a pain, but just a matter of time and
patience. Not technically difficult at all.
WORD OF WARNING - I bought my mounts at two different stores. They were
made in two different countries and were two different heights. Didn't
work! had to take two of them back and either get all made by Black Forest
Elves or all made by (I assume) lower caste Indians (Yes, they were stamped
"Made in India").
I chose the Elfen variety, as they looked a bit beefier.
Karl Wolz
----- Original Message -----
From: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: How to check motor mounts, second request.
> I can speak only from my experience with Air-cooled vans/busses, but I am
> pretty sure the mounts are similar on the H20 vans as well.
>
> There are two mount systems. One at the front on the transmission, a
single
> mount. And a grouping of four mounts at the rear of the motor on a mount
> bar.
>
> Of the four on the bar at the rear of the motor, the two in the middle are
> designed primarily to absorb/damp movement of the motor up and down. The
> outside pair of mounts control/damp torque, or rotation of the motor along
> the crankshaft's axis of rotation, but also contribute to control of
> movement up and down.
>
> The mount at the front of the transmission serves both roles.
>
> The check procedure that I use is somewhat dangerous, so proceed only if
> you feel confident that your life insurance is paid up. First, find a
> partner who you trust implicitly. Start the van, and have them sit in the
> drivers seat. Set the parking brake firmly. Go to the back of the van with
> a good flash light. On the Van-Air-gan, you have to get under the van to
> see the rear mounts clearly, I think this is also true of the Van-Agua-n.
>
> Now here's the Danger, Will Robinson. Get under the van, and use your
> eyeballs and the flashlight to peer at the REAR mounts. Have your trusted
> buddy step on the clutch with his left foot and step on the BRAKE with his
> right foot. Next, have him put it in first, and GENTLY release the clutch
> just until the van strains a bit, then push the clutch to the floor again.
> Have him do this a couple of times while you eyeball the mounts
thoroughly.
> Then have him do the same thing with the van in REVERSE. Then repeat the
> whole procedure while eyeballing the front mount.
>
> What you should see: Some deflection, and some minor movement of the
motor;
> maybe a centimeter in any direction. What you shouldn't see. Cracked
> rubber, split mounts, lots of movement. If you have clutch chatter, you
> prolly have one or many bad mounts particularly, the front mount and the
> outside rear mounts are shot in their "torque" aspect. It is good practice
> (PM) to replace them all at once, and be done with. The front one is
around
> $125, and each of the rear ones is something like $10. The tranny one is a
> cinch to replace. The rear ones are a pain. (Again, Van-Air-gan experience
> here).
>
> Cheers.
>
> G. Matthew Bulley
> Director
> Bulley-Hewlett & Associates
> www.bulley-hewlett.com <http://www.bulley-hewlett.com/>
> Cary, NC USA
> 888.468.4880 tollfree
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vernon Craddock [SMTP:Vernon@CRADDOCK.COM]
> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 12:07 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: How to check motor mounts, second request.
>
> Hi,
>
> I didn't get any feedback the first time, so I'll try again. How
> do I check
> the motor mounts? What exactly does one look for here? I am trying to
> resolve
> a problem with excessive bucking or clutch chatter when engaging first
> gear on
> an incline.
>
> Thanks again,
> Vernon Craddock
>
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