Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:49:24 -0700
Reply-To: David Marshall <vanagon@VOLKSWAGEN.ORG>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Marshall <vanagon@VOLKSWAGEN.ORG>
Subject: Re: Eurospec problem
In-Reply-To: <380363C0.11BB4D32@rambus.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
People have slammed me for dissing Digifant II in the past. My problems
with Digifant II were always hot weather realated.
There could be many reasons why it isn't firing up. The first thing I
would check is coolant temp sensor, these go bad quite frequently on the
Digifant systems.
I am not too familular with the Eurospec conversion, but when I do my
engine conversions I take the power from existing wires that were in the
engine bay that controlled the previous ECU / Fuel Pump relay. The best
way to tell if there is a problem with the voltage is to use a test light
and a multimeter. Attach the test light to the wire so we are drawing a
little current, then use the multimeter to see if there is 13 to 13.5V
there or not. If there is less than 13V there I can see no reason why you
can't take your 12V from a different source (10A is the size of the fuse
you should use).
At 09:37 AM 12/10/1999 -0700, Grant Holst wrote:
>I need the wisdom of the List. I have a Eurospec kit
>in my '85 GL. On hot days the engine will not start
>back up after sitting for a few minutes. It needs to
>cool down almost completely before it will start.
>It tries to start but sounds like it is running
>on 1 or 2 cyls. I use to have a hot start problem
>before where the engine would just spin and I had
>no ignition at all. It turned out to be a bad power supply
>relay,( I thought) the one that supplies 12v to the ecu. The relay
>would heat up and not work. I moved the box that housed
>the relay to a cooler spot and that seemed to work for awhile.
>When the engine wouldn't start or ran on 1 or 2 cyls. I would
>swap out the warm relay for a cool relay and the engine would
>run fine. Since the relay was still getting too warm it seemed,
>I moved the relay box and ecu under the rear seat. I figured
>this had to fix the problem since the relay was no longer
>in a hot spot. Well, it didn't fix the problem. So now
>I think the problem is in the wire that runs from the terminal
>in the back of the van(in the black box that has the picture
>of vacuum lines on the cover) to the dash/fuse block and back to the
>relay.
>This wire is about 18ga. and about 20 feet long. I think
>this wire has too much voltage drop for the new ecu which
>was designed for a jetta engine (shorter wires, since everything
>is up front). Does anyone know why this wire needs to run to the fuse
>block? Bentley doesn't show a fuse in this wire.
>
>Any thoughts on this or what else might be causing the problem?
>I never had a problem like this with the old 1.9l.
>
>Grant Holst
>Sunnyvale, CA.
>
>
-- David Marshall - - Quesnel, BC, Canada --
-- 78 VW Rabbit, 80 VW Caddy, 84 VW Westie, 85 VW Cabriolet --
-- 87 Audi 5000 Quattro, 88 2.0L VW Syncro Double Cab --
-- David's Volkswagen Home Page http://www.volkswagen.org --
-- Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning http://www.fastforward.ca --
-- david@volkswagen.org (pmail) or vanagon@volkswagen.org (list) --
|