Date:         Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:11:26 -0800
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Organization: The Cobalt Group
Subject:      Re: pep boy's said after oil change I need ball joints....
Comments: To: dan <finalcut@VISUALLINK.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

This is one of those things that unethical shops will tell you so they
can "make the next boat payment," as the Car Talk guys say.  They know
you probably can't check them out yourself, and usually make it sound
like a safety issue, which it is, but you would know something was wrong
by the way the vehicle wanders on the highway.

First, ball joints on VW vans of all types almost never wear out due to
the light load up front UNLESS the boot is torn and water/grit get in.

You CAN check ball joints yourself:

Jack up the car and inspect the boots first.  If they are okay the
joints are probably okay.  Then get a block of wood and a pry bar and
lift the wheel up with the pry bar while looking at the lower ball
joint.  If the lower control arm moves up with no play in the joint it
is fine.  For the upper grab the top of the tire and push and pull in
and out feeling for any side to side play in the upper joint. If none
they are fine and you need to take your VW somewhere else in the future!

BTW, if you are in or near Seattle we have one of the few honest and
competent "under car" shops in the world, Tru Line Frame and Wheel.  I
have been going to them for 25 years.  Recently my son took his 4WD
Blazer to a gas station shop advertising a $39.95 alignment.  They would
not do the alignment unless he had them do $650 worth of repairs to the
suspension.  I took it to Tru Line and it cost $165 for a new idler arm
and an alignment.  This other shop even quoted a price for repacking the
*permanently sealed* front wheel bearings!

--
Stuart MacMillan
Manager, Case Program
800-909-8244 ext 208

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