Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 07:52:32 -0700
Reply-To: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: radiator fan sending unit, coolant pipes
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Just replaced the sender, myself. If you have AC in your van, you can
activate it by turning on the AC, or drive around a bit with the jumper left
in to observe whether the temp climbs. Mine now stays just below the
warning light. Added bonus: the van now runs noticeably better, with more
power.
You are correct in guessing the location of the sender. You actually don't
have to drain the coolant to do this, but you do want the fan to be stone
cold so there is no pressure on the system. You'll need a BIG socket (32mm,
I think), and an assistant. Loosen the sender so that it is finger tight,
and have the new one (with a new gasket) ready. As your assistant actually
removes the old one (there'll be a blursch of coolant come out), slip the
new one in immediately. I only lost about a pint of coolant in the
transfer.
----- Original Message -----
From: Woody Halsey <WoodyHalsey@COMPUSERVE.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 6:01 AM
Subject: radiator fan sending unit, coolant pipes
Dear List,
Ken Wilford was helping me with my radiator fan; but he is now engaged in
*much* more significant and joyful matters, so I turn to the list for
advice.
Following Ken's suggestions on his website, I ascertained that my radiator
fan works at both speeds, but that the sending unit must be faulty because
the fan doesn't go on when the coolant warms up. I am now wondering whether
failure of the fan to function (and this may have been a problem for a
*long* time) explains why at some point in the by-now-dimly-recalled-past
the temperature gauge started hovering at 3/4 even 7/8 of the dial, instead
of just past the LED as it did when relatively new.
So, my questions are: Where is the sending unit, who can sell me a new
one, and how do I install? I am guessing it is the male connector that is
screwed into the lower right hand corner of the radiator, and that I will
need to drain the system to replace it. I need to drain the system (one
month after putting in Autobahn coolant!) anyway, because my coolant pipes
are rotted. Bringing me to the next questions ...
Has anyone replaced the steel coolant pipes with anything but dealer parts,
do the plastic pipes made for later models (mine's an 83.5) fit the same,
and how hard is it to install any rig: original metal, dealer plastic, or
home made?
Thanking any and all in advance,
Woody
| 
