Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 19:40:14 -0800
Reply-To: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
Subject: Re: timing tyro
In-Reply-To: <199911271748_MC2-8ECB-3335@compuserve.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi, Woody -
You wrote:
<<BUT both the rounded mark and the triangular mark on the pulleys appear
under the strobe to be well to the left of the seam on the block ... maybe
15-20 degrees. If I rotate the distributor clockwise, the marks appear to
move back toward where they should be, but before they get to the line, the
engine stalls.>>
Do you know the history of the engine as relates to the last time the
distributor drive was installed? If the drive is off a tooth it would
account for this type of behavior. If this is the first time the timing has
been checked since it was put in, there's a good probability this is the
problem. However, if a knowledgeable mechanic has done the timing since
then, this is not so likely - the fault would likely have been corrected by
now.
In the latter case (the drive is in right), if the engine stalls at proper
timing setting, first thing is to try adjusting the idle speed up (the big
screw on the throttle body). If that doesn't work, look for vacuum leaks.
Normally the speed setting screw will be near flush with the top of the bore
it lives in, not way down inside nor protruding much above. If the screw is
in an extreme in or out position, someone has probably been trying to
compensate for another problem.
A simple tach/dwell meter (a $15-20 Radio Shack or FLAPS item) is helpful,
although a good ear will do for the rough setting.
You can also try adjusting the airflow meter richer at the adjusting screw
(usually a 5mm Allen head, top rear of the AF meter), although you will want
to verify the final setting with a gas analyzer at a facility so equipped.
First disconnect the O2 sensor (follow the black wire from the sensor up
from the exhaust system "y" piece at the left side of the engine), turn
clockwise to richen, CCW to lean.
NOTE: Your van is a DIGI-JET model ('83-5), no? Someone suggested the timing
will not be correct if the T2 sensor is not connected - this is NOT the case
with the digi-jet system, as it IS with the Digi-fant ('86-). If you have
the plug-together type idle stabilizer harness that lives on the left side
of the engine compartment, then your system is the early one and the
ignition system is separate from the fuel injection (the only connection
being a tach signal from the negative side of the coil).
The basic timing procedure is this:
1. Warm engine to normal operating temp (temp gauge needle at normal
position).
2. Shut off engine.
3. Connect timing light and tach.
4. Disconnect and plug together wiring harness ends at idle stabilizer on
left side of engine compartment.
5. Adjust idle speed to 875 rpm.
6. Check alignment of "v" notch in pulley with seam of crankcase, if
necessary stop engine, loosen distributor clamp enough to turn with some
resistance. Restart engine and rotate distributor to align marks. Adjust
idle speed as needed. Stop engine and tighten distributor clamp (PLEASE
don't treat it like a lug nut - it doesn't need to be so tight that the
clamp becomes distorted. Snug will do - just so the distributor doesn't turn
against moderate hand torque).
Good luck - let me know if there's anything I'm leaving out!
Coby
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
> Of Woody Halsey
> Sent: Saturday, November 27, 1999 2:48 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: timing tyro
>
>
> Dear Friends,
>
> Well, my first attempt at timing has been, so far, a complete bust. Any
> hand holding or concrete suggestions would be most appreciated.
>
> Thanks to several of you, I figured out how to set up the light and loosen
> the distributor and plug the idle stabilizer plugs into each other. I can
> get the engine to idle without stalling (it sounds "normal," but I do not
> know the RPM) and I can can make it run faster (maybe smoother?) by
> rotating the the distributor. BUT both the rounded mark and the triangular
> mark on the pulleys appear under the strobe to be well to the left of the
> seam on the block ... maybe 15-20 degrees. If I rotate the distributor
> clockwise, the marks appear to move back toward where they should be, but
> before they get to the line, the engine stalls.
>
> Is it worth pursuing this operation, if do not have any way of measuring
> RPM accurately and if I do not have the measuring devices called
> for by the
> Bentley to check the throttle and the idle stabilizer control unit?
>
> Is there a step-by-step description of the basic process anywhere. My
> search of the archives yesterday turned up nothing, and the Bentley is
> confusing.
>
> Related question: Where is the "ECU temp sensor?" I know where the "temp 2
> sensor" is; are they one and the same?
>
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