Date:         Thu, 9 Dec 1999 12:11:56 -0500
Reply-To:     EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Subject:      Re: "drill-out" and Broken Bolt/Stud Extraction Techniques
Comments: To: Steve Elfelt <steveelf@SPRYNET.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <002101bf4263$a2f31b60$7de38ad1@squirrel>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

    Someone makes drill bits that drills in reverse. As you
are drilling, the force of the bit is trying to unscrew the broken
bolt. I think these are a great idea.
      I've axually had broken bolts that the drilling forced in, that
were finger tight. Just nothing to grab on to. After that, they would not
move at all.

            Eric                   86-VW4x4
            vw4x4@fyi.net          72-240z
            Pittsburgh, PA USA     1936-Chrysler


On Thu, 9 Dec 1999, Steve Elfelt wrote:

> I had *exactly* the same problem (head busted off seized-up
> screw/bolt on rear outter cv joint.  There was a tad sticking out
> so I used a small torch to heat up the busted stud and tried the
> visegrips.  No go.  Then the drill.  Before the drill part was finished
> the stud start wriggling all by itself, I think due to the surrounding
> metal heating and the hole in which the stud was stuck slightly
> expanding.  Came out with fingers.  Yikes!  It was hot!  I wonder if
> I made anything *too* hot and did damage?  But that was 25k ago
> and it hasn't manifested.
>
> I think if you remove the cv from the tranny and remove the
> inner race on the tranny side, and then remove the wheel (and brake?)
> you can pull the axle out attached to the wheel and put the whole
> thing on the work bench.
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Steve E
>