Date:         Thu, 9 Dec 1999 12:59:32 -0500
Reply-To:     "Carrington, Tom" <tcarrington@RELITECH.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Carrington, Tom" <tcarrington@RELITECH.COM>
Subject:      Re: "drill-out" and Broken Bolt/Stud Extraction Techniques
Content-Type: text/plain

When tying to remove a broken bolt/stud, don't heat the stud. It just makes
it expand, locking it even tighter. You will get better results if you heat
the surrounding metal, and keep the stud cool by clamping on vise-grips. The
vise grips act as a heat sink as well as giving you a handle to turn the
bolt.

Can't get the torch on the surrounding metal due to things in the way? Then
heat the remaining bolt/stud. Get it just glowing orange, and keep it that
way for a minute or so. That gives the heat time to penetrate the
surrounding metal. Shut off the torch, then cool the stud quickly. The stud
will contract, which may loosen it enough to get it out with vise grips.

I used to use Freon spray cans to cool heated bolts/studs, but you can't get
that anymore. Carb cleaner may work.

TomC
tcarrington@relitech.com
http://volksweb.relitech.com
85 Vanagon Crew Cab
82 Westy diesel=>gas conversion
65 Notchback


> I had *exactly* the same problem (head busted off seized-up
> screw/bolt on rear outter cv joint.  There was a tad sticking out
> so I used a small torch to heat up the busted stud and tried the
> visegrips.  No go.