Date:         Thu, 9 Dec 1999 10:11:44 -0800
Reply-To:     Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Subject:      Re: "drill-out" and Broken Bolt/Stud Extraction Techniques
Comments: cc: "Carrington, Tom , vanagon" <tcarrington@relitech.com>
In-Reply-To:  <61E4C8506924D311A2CB006097326F3A05D767@rtiserv1.relitech.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

on 9/12/99 9:59 AM, Carrington, Tom at tcarrington@RELITECH.COM wrote:

snip
> Can't get the torch on the surrounding metal due to things in the way? Then
> heat the remaining bolt/stud. Get it just glowing orange, and keep it that
> way for a minute or so. That gives the heat time to penetrate the
> surrounding metal. Shut off the torch, then cool the stud quickly. The stud
> will contract, which may loosen it enough to get it out with vise grips.
>
> I used to use Freon spray cans to cool heated bolts/studs, but you can't get
> that anymore. Carb cleaner may work.snip


Try "super cold 22" (M.G. Chemicals). Its a aerosol spray can that when
sprayed on an object will cool to a claimed -71 C.
You can get it at electronic supply stores.

Good to have around when trouble shooting electronic components that you
suspect having heat related failure.

Alistair