Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 12:52:41 -0500
Reply-To: "Carrington, Tom" <tcarrington@RELITECH.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Carrington, Tom" <tcarrington@RELITECH.COM>
Subject: Re: "drill-out" and Broken Bolt/Stud Extraction Techniques
Content-Type: text/plain
I have a set of reversed brill bits from MAC tools. They work on fasteners
that were sheared off for reasons other than somebody snapping the head off
while trying to loosen them. Like engine parts (alternator brackets, etc)
boken off due to a collision. Or just like the situation Eric is
mentioning. Where the bolt is not locked solid, but you just don't have a
way to grab it. About $25 for a 4-bit set from the guy who drives the tool
van.
For corroded-in fasteners - NO WAY. Think about it...if that fastener is in
there so tight that you twist can the head off, can you really expect a
reverse-running bit to apply even more torque to loosen it? If it broke
because the fastener was locked by corrosion, drill it out. Next time, try
some penetrating oil and the "blue wrench" (aka propane, mapp or acetelyne
torch). I worked as a boat mechanic for 7 years...I used to deal with
corrosion, stripped fasteners, etc. all the time. I would do all sorts of
stuff to avoid stripping or breaking off a bolt. Especially a stainless
steel fastener...what a b!tch they are to drill out!!
TomC
tcarrington@relitech.com
http://volksweb.relitech.com
85 Vanagon Crew Cab
82 Westy diesel=>gas conversion
65 Notchback
> -----Original Message-----
> From: EMZ [SMTP:vw4x4@FYI.NET]
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 12:12 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: "drill-out" and Broken Bolt/Stud Extraction Techniques
>
> Someone makes drill bits that drills in reverse. As you
> are drilling, the force of the bit is trying to unscrew the broken
> bolt. I think these are a great idea.
> I've axually had broken bolts that the drilling forced in, that
> were finger tight. Just nothing to grab on to. After that, they would not
> move at all.
>
> Eric 86-VW4x4
> vw4x4@fyi.net 72-240z
> Pittsburgh, PA USA 1936-Chrysler
>
>
> On Thu, 9 Dec 1999, Steve Elfelt wrote:
>
> > I had *exactly* the same problem (head busted off seized-up
> > screw/bolt on rear outter cv joint. There was a tad sticking out
> > so I used a small torch to heat up the busted stud and tried the
> > visegrips. No go. Then the drill. Before the drill part was finished
> > the stud start wriggling all by itself, I think due to the surrounding
> > metal heating and the hole in which the stud was stuck slightly
> > expanding. Came out with fingers. Yikes! It was hot! I wonder if
> > I made anything *too* hot and did damage? But that was 25k ago
> > and it hasn't manifested.
> >
> > I think if you remove the cv from the tranny and remove the
> > inner race on the tranny side, and then remove the wheel (and brake?)
> > you can pull the axle out attached to the wheel and put the whole
> > thing on the work bench.
> >
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Steve E
> >
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