Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 13:13:36 -0500
Reply-To: "Stanley, Kerry" <kstanley@CAS.ORG>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Stanley, Kerry" <kstanley@CAS.ORG>
Subject: Re: Syncro Tranny Removal Procedure/tips
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Tim, all listees,
Tim asked about tips on removing the Syncro trans. I've removed mine twice,
pretty much following the Bentley manual.
In one step they have you remove the front trans mounting from the rubber
donut mounting brackets. I did it once this way and on the second time I
left the trans connected to this mounting bracket, and just removed the
bolts holding the bracket to the frame. This seemed easier than playing
with the rubber donuts and trying to get to the nut on top of the rubber
donut.
After removing the front trans bracket they have you lower the trans 6
inches or so. The more the better, but... In my case lowering the trans
put strain on a coolant hose connection on the right front that goes up to
the coolant ring that goes around the engine compartment. Loosen this
coolant ring from the plastic holders so it can droop down into the engine
compartment. When I did some coolant work I replaced the short coolant hose
with a longer one so no strain anymore.
The biggest problem I have had is that during reinstall the starter motor
catches. The silvery insulation gets messed up. The last time I removed
the starter motor, and got the trans connected to the engine, but not
tightened up let, and with the front end still pretty low. Then reinstalled
the starter motor. The top bolt that holds the starter motor on is the
trans-engine mounting bolt as well. It has a 8mm hex socket on the head end
and a 15mm nut I believe. The socket end is toward the front (at starter
motor flange) and the nut is in the engine compartment.
I've done this on my back in the driveway, so it may take me longer than
most. Good part of a day.
I ALWAYS replace the pilot bearing in the crank end, that the tranny input
shaft goes into. It goes bad long before any other clutch part. A lot of
work for a cheap part. If this goes, you may get rough engagement but on
mine the sloppiness in the input shaft eventually ruined the input seal to
the tranny, and I was leaking trans fluid pretty bad.
Good luck,
Kerry
kstanley@cas.org
'86 syncro 171k
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim King [mailto:tking_ms@MSN.COM]
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 1999 7:17 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Syncro Tranny Removal Procedure/tips
snip
What I'm looking for is tips and BTDTs. Anything to make my life a bit
easier, and the job a little quicker. The skid plate is off and the syncro
driveshaft is already out. The clutch was done at a VW dealer about 4000
snip
Tim King
Seattle, WA
87 Syncro Westy -- 2WD, no fourth gear, still loved
89 Audi 200tqw -- clutch pedal? we don't need no stinkin' clutch pedal!
