I've always heard that this is a mother of a job, and I was planning to bring all the parts to my mechanic and let him do the "grunt" work.  But Peter, you make it sound so easy...
 
(I thought it was a 4-hour, greasy, sweaty, 4-busted-knuckle, I'll-never-do-that-again job)
 
Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Buettner, Peter [mailto:PGB@DOLBY.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:50 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings

Spring compressors are not needed for changing the Syncro springs/shocks.  In fact you'll have a hard time getting them onto the spring!  There's no space in there.  Simply remove the stabilizer bar and loosen the thrust arm.  The control arm will drop down enough so that you can easily take the spring out.  Don't forget to remove the bracket that holds the brake hose first.  Otherwise the full weight of the control arm is going to be supported by only the brake hose!

Have fun with you new springs!
Peter
90 Syncro Westy
SF, CA

-----Original Message-----
From: Doktor Tim [mailto:doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 2:09 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings


At 08:51 AM 01/26/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>In getting ready to put in my new Syncro springs and soon-to-come OME
>shocks, I want to replace any other pieces of the front end that make sense.
>My primary concern is getting rid of the irritating squeakiness.
>

>2. Is there anything else I should repair/replace while I'm at it?

Stabilizer bar has bushings at the attaching points to the lower arms and
where it is affixed to the chassis. The thrust arms have a coupla big
bushings on the front. Any of these can squeek when they get age hard and
or deformed and worn. Power brush all the metal washers to remove
corrosion. If they are pitted, replace them.

Do not use a $29.95 coil spring compresser from J.C. Whipme, or Harbor
Freight. Very dangerous energy is stored when compressed enough for removal
and installation. Use a quality brand name tool. Rent one if you hafta.
It's kinda like a loaded gun. Always know where not to put hands and heads
and knees and feet at all times.

>3. Is there any way to keep the new bushings from getting squeaky with time?

Rub a thin film of silicon paste on them, SylGlide, etc.

>
>I'll probably do the front brakes, too.

Scrutinize the brake hoses. If they feel supple with no cracking or bulges,
ok. If they are more than 10 year old originals, consider replacing them
out of course.


T.P. Stephens aka Doktor Tim
San Juan Island, WA