The first time I did this job it took me about 4 = hours for each side. And that with lots of help from Steve = Schwenk. This was without removing the stabilizer bars etc. = Since then I've been talking to several people about this job. I = think Mark Drillock gave me the tip with the stabilizer bars. =
So the second time around it took me lees then 2 = hours for the first side. I almost managed to get the second side = changed in under 1 hour (!!!!). But then disaster struck! I = was tightening the last bolt (the big 14mm that holds the lower end of = the shock) and was thinking already about the nice cold beer that I = would be opening in a minute. So I just kept tightening and = tightening, and nothing happened. The bolt just kept = turning. Of course you guessed right, the thread was messed = up! The first time I changed the shocks I had to tap this thread = because I couldn't get the bolt in. I used Steve's spark plug tab = which was the right size, but, as it turns out, the wrong pitch. = 1.25 instead of the required 1.5. Big mistake. It took me = over one week and almost $100 to get a thread repair kit for that size = and a matching new bolt (I could have had a second pair of springs for = that money). Many thanks to the patient Steve Schwenk. My = Bus was stuck in his garage for almost two weeks.
Here are some more notes about changing the springs =
that I think might be useful:
1. If you don't think of replacing the bushings of =
the thrust arm, DON'T TAKE THEM OUT! Just loosen the nut and =
don't touch the bushing. I took the bushing out on the first side =
and couldn't get it back in properly. In the process of trying I =
messed up the metal sleeve of the bushing. The bushing is now =
back in, but in the wrong position and with a bent sleeve. On the =
second side I didn't touch the bushing and it was fine.
2. Getting the shock into the top mounting is kind of = tricky. I used all the 3/8" ratchet extensions I could find = and put them together into one big extension. I put the female = end of it through the hole from the inside of the van (you have to = remove the seat, swivel base and the rubber stop that's in the hole) = and over the top of the shock. This serves as a nice guide for = the shock. I then used a hydraulic jack on the bottom of the = control arm to push the whole assembly up. Eventually the shock = will pop through the to mounting hole. Keep pressing until the = tip of the shock stops making progress. This will not be enough = to assemble the rubber donut. Use the washer and the nut to pull = out the remaining length of the shock. Take the washer/nut out = and assemble the rubber donut, washer and nut in the right = sequence.
3. The first side took longer because I had to figure = out where all the stabilizer and thrust bars are located and where to = detach them etc. Bentley helps a great deal. It's all = pretty well illustrated there.
4. I did this work on my 1990 Syncro. As Mark = Drillock pointed out, older Syncros have a different control arm = assembly. I can't say if all this applies to older = Syncros
Hope this helps all the folks with new Syncro springs =
out there.
Peter
90 Syncro Westy
SF, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: BRENT CHRISTENSEN [mailto:bchristensen@INFOGEN=
ESIS.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 4:26 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings
I've always heard that this is a mother of a job, and = I was planning to bring all the parts to my mechanic and let him do the = "grunt" work. But Peter, you make it sound so = easy...
(I thought it was a 4-hour, greasy, sweaty, =
4-busted-knuckle, I'll-never-do-that-again job)
Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Buettner, Peter [mailto:PGB@DOLBY.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:50 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings
Spring compressors are not needed for changing the = Syncro springs/shocks. In fact you'll have a hard time getting = them onto the spring! There's no space in there. Simply = remove the stabilizer bar and loosen the thrust arm. The control = arm will drop down enough so that you can easily take the spring = out. Don't forget to remove the bracket that holds the brake hose = first. Otherwise the full weight of the control arm is going to = be supported by only the brake hose!
Have fun with you new springs!
Peter
90 Syncro Westy
SF, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Doktor Tim [mailto:doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM=
]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 2:09 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings
At 08:51 AM 01/26/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>In getting ready to put in my new Syncro springs =
and soon-to-come OME
>shocks, I want to replace any other pieces of =
the front end that make sense.
>My primary concern is getting rid of the =
irritating squeakiness.
>
>2. Is there anything else I should =
repair/replace while I'm at it?
Stabilizer bar has bushings at the attaching points =
to the lower arms and
where it is affixed to the chassis. The thrust arms =
have a coupla big
bushings on the front. Any of these can squeek when =
they get age hard and
or deformed and worn. Power brush all the metal =
washers to remove
corrosion. If they are pitted, replace them.
Do not use a $29.95 coil spring compresser from J.C. =
Whipme, or Harbor
Freight. Very dangerous energy is stored when =
compressed enough for removal
and installation. Use a quality brand name tool. =
Rent one if you hafta.
It's kinda like a loaded gun. Always know where not =
to put hands and heads
and knees and feet at all times.
>3. Is there any way to keep the new bushings =
from getting squeaky with time?
Rub a thin film of silicon paste on them, SylGlide, =
etc.
>
>I'll probably do the front brakes, too.
Scrutinize the brake hoses. If they feel supple with =
no cracking or bulges,
ok. If they are more than 10 year old originals, =
consider replacing them
out of course.
T.P. Stephens aka Doktor Tim
San Juan Island, WA