Joel Cort sent this to me, and I felt it would be = great to share with the rest of the list (with Joel's = permission)
-----Original Message-----
From: Cort, Joel [mailto:Joel.Cort@usa.xerox.com=
A>]
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 7:00 AM
To: =
'BRENTCHRISTENSEN<bchristensen@infogenesis.com>'
Subject: How to replace the brake master cylinder. - =
long -
To replace the brake master cylinder in a = Vanagon:
Tools needed:
=
Phillips #2 =
and several flat screwdrivers
=
7mm wrench to =
loosen and tighten the brake bleeder
=
12 mm =
socket/ratchet with 9" extension (Torque wrench
optional)
=
11 mm open =
end wrench for the brake line
=
22 mm and =
24mm wrench or socket to remove or replace the
brake light switches (or one big cresent wrench) =
Supplies needed:
=
2 pints of =
DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid
=
Rags
=
2 pints of =
rubbing alcohol
=
Silicone =
spray lubricant (optional)
Step 1. Remove Instrument Panel:
I pulled off the cover over the instrument =
cluster. Then the 4 Philips head
screws. Next reach behind the Speedo cluster =
and squeeze the plastic
retainer holding the cable in and release =
that. This gives you more play in
the instrument panel to unplug the main cable =
cluster. To be safe you
should disconnect the battery when playing with the =
wiring. I then pull all
switches/plugs and wiring - fairly straight forward =
and easy. With all that
stuff out of the way the MC is sitting there with =
the plastic filler tank
taking up most of the space. I also =
disconnected the low fluid sensor wire
on the MC filler cap.
Step 2. Check for similarities with the new one: =
Ok double check that the two MCs were real close in =
appearance. The new one
must have all the plugs and ports in the same =
location to route the brake
lines and the filler tank.
Step 3. Drain the filler tank of all the brake =
fluid:
First you have to drain as much the brake fluid out =
as you can out of the
plastic container and MC. I put a hose and =
bottle on the bleeder on the
left front caliper and open the bleeder while =
pumping the brakes. This
worked well and drained all the fluid out.
Step 4. Remove the Clutch MC filler tank =
hose:
On the upper right side of the tank there is a pipe =
leading to a fitted 3/8"
braided rubber hose going to the clutch master =
cylinder that needs to be
worked off. Put a rag under to collect any =
fluid here. I used a pair of
pliers to gently start twisting the hose and sprayed =
some silicone spray
lubricant. I then used several screwdrivers to =
pry it off and finally my
twisting motion to work it off. Be careful =
doing this because if it breaks
the plastic pipe you will need a new tank. =
Once I had the rubber hose
removed I plugged it up to prevent any brake fluid =
from leaking out while I
was working in there.
Step 5. Remove the brake lines:
Have a rag under both of the brake line to catch =
that little drip. If you
pumped the fluid out there should be minimal amounts =
easily captured on a
rag. Loosen the two metallic brake lines going =
to the front and rear brake
circuits. One brake line is on the center =
right side blocking the anchoring
nut so you must remove the brake line. I believe the =
brake line nuts are
11mm. The other brake line is on the end of the MC =
and sticking out at you.
The real pain was holding a shop light in there =
there's no good hook.
Step 6. Loosen and remove the brake master =
cylinder:
Ok two brake lines off, rubber hose off, all you =
have left is the two MC
anchor nuts. I believe they are 12mm. =
They are not supper tight and loosen
out easily. I used a magnet wand to capture =
the loose nut and washers. The
MC is now ready to be removed. Jimmy the MC to =
disconnect the brake light
wiring from the two switches on the bottom and =
VOILA!
Step 7. Prepping the new MC for =
installation:
Switches
OK now you have the old one out and you can compare =
it to the new one. My
new MC came with the two new brake light switches =
but I ended up
using my old switches - 22mm wrench on my old ones =
24mm on the new ones.
The new MC switches had 3 male plugs and my old ones =
had 2 male at a
slightly different offset. So rather than =
dicker with the wiring plug I
changed the switches. Be careful to put the =
switches in the correct
threaded hole on the MC.
Filler tank
The plastic brake fluid tank comes out of the MC =
easily by prying it out of
each rubber grommets. Mine was full of 108K =
miles of brake line crud so I
cleaned it out. Regular rubbing alcohol works =
really well to break down
brake fluid. I swished alcohol around in the =
baffles of the filler tank
several times and it is as good as new. The =
new MC came with new grommets
so I just applied some silicone to ease it in. =
It snapped right on the MC.
OK double check everything making sure there is a =
new seal between the MC
and the brake booster (which came in the box with =
the MC).
Step 8. New MC installation:
Angle the new MC with the tank assembled and place =
it on the pushrod coming
out of the booster. You can press on the brake =
pedal to see the rod to get
a better angle at it. Ensure that the pushrod =
inserts into the MC shaft. I
used the same lock-ring washers and nut although two =
new ones were also
supplied. I used a magnetic wand to place the =
washers and nuts on the
threads in the tight area.
Torque it down to the right Nm from Bentley.
Refit the brake line circuits ensure that the =
threads are aligned and
tighten down.
Refit the braided rubber hose for the Clutch MC. =
Fill with new brake fluid (I used DOT 4) and pump =
the brakes a few times to
get the juices flowing
Bleed the brakes until clean clear fluid comes out =
and all the air is
removed. - you know this routine.
Step 9. Cleanup:
You are done. So you see this is one of the easier =
jobs. I did not spill
one bit of fluid. If you do spill any fluid =
use some alcohol to clean it up
and mop it up. Alcohol will work on the =
carpeting also to dissolves the
dripped brake fluid.
Good Luck - Hope this helps
Joel
Thanks,
Joel B. Cort
Xerox TSI
Corporate Information Security
161 Chestnut Street
Building 875 - 2A
Rochester, NY 14604
* (716) 423-3851 8*223-3851