To replace the brake master cylinder in a = Vanagon:

Tools needed:
        =         Phillips #2 = and several flat screwdrivers
        =         7mm wrench to = loosen and tighten the brake bleeder
        =         12 mm = socket/ratchet with 9" extension (Torque wrench
optional)
        =         11 mm open = end wrench for the brake line
        =         22 mm and = 24mm wrench or socket to remove or replace the
brake light switches (or one big cresent wrench) =
Supplies needed:
        =         2 pints of = DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid
        =         Rags
        =         2 pints of = rubbing alcohol
        =         Silicone = spray lubricant (optional)

Step 1.  Remove Instrument Panel:
I pulled off the cover over the instrument = cluster.  Then the 4 Philips head
screws.  Next reach behind the Speedo cluster = and squeeze the plastic
retainer holding the cable in and release = that.  This gives you more play in
the instrument panel to unplug the main cable = cluster.  To be safe you
should disconnect the battery when playing with the = wiring. I then pull all
switches/plugs and wiring - fairly straight forward = and easy. With all that
stuff out of the way the MC is sitting there with = the plastic filler tank
taking up most of the space.  I also = disconnected the low fluid sensor wire
on the MC filler cap.

Step 2. Check for similarities with the new one: =
Ok double check that the two MCs were real close in = appearance.  The new one
must have all the plugs and ports in the same = location to route the brake
lines and the filler tank.

Step 3.  Drain the filler tank of all the brake = fluid:
First you have to drain as much the brake fluid out = as you can out of the
plastic container and MC.  I put a hose and = bottle on the bleeder on the
left front caliper and open the bleeder while = pumping the brakes.  This
worked well and drained all the fluid out.

Step 4.  Remove the Clutch MC filler tank = hose:
On the upper right side of the tank there is a pipe = leading to a fitted 3/8"
braided rubber hose going to the clutch master = cylinder that needs to be
worked off.  Put a rag under to collect any = fluid here.  I used a pair of
pliers to gently start twisting the hose and sprayed = some silicone spray
lubricant.  I then used several screwdrivers to = pry it off and finally my
twisting motion to work it off.  Be careful = doing this because if it breaks
the plastic pipe you will need a new tank.  = Once I had the rubber hose
removed I plugged it up to prevent any brake fluid = from leaking out while I
was working in there.

Step 5.  Remove the brake lines:
Have a rag under both of the brake line to catch = that little drip.  If you
pumped the fluid out there should be minimal amounts = easily captured on a
rag.  Loosen the two metallic brake lines going = to the front and rear brake
circuits.  One brake line is on the center = right side blocking the anchoring
nut so you must remove the brake line. I believe the = brake line nuts are
11mm. The other brake line is on the end of the MC = and sticking out at you.
The real pain was holding a shop light in there = there's no good hook.

Step 6.  Loosen and remove the brake master = cylinder:
Ok two brake lines off, rubber hose off, all you = have left is the two MC
anchor nuts.  I believe they are 12mm.  = They are not supper tight and loosen
out easily.  I used a magnet wand to capture = the loose nut and washers.  The
MC is now ready to be removed.  Jimmy the MC to = disconnect the brake light
wiring from the two switches on the bottom and = VOILA!

Step 7.  Prepping the new MC for = installation:
Switches
OK now you have the old one out and you can compare = it to the new one.  My
new MC came with the two new brake light switches = but I ended up
using my old switches - 22mm wrench on my old ones = 24mm on the new ones.
The new MC switches had 3 male plugs and my old ones = had 2 male at a
slightly different offset.  So rather than = dicker with the wiring plug I
changed the switches.  Be careful to put the = switches in the correct
threaded hole on the MC.

Filler tank
The plastic brake fluid tank comes out of the MC = easily by prying it out of
each rubber grommets.  Mine was full of 108K = miles of brake line crud so I
cleaned it out.  Regular rubbing alcohol works = really well to break down
brake fluid.  I swished alcohol around in the = baffles of the filler tank
several times and it is as good as new.  The = new MC came with new grommets
so I just applied some silicone to ease it in.  = It snapped right on the MC.
OK double check everything making sure there is a = new seal between the MC
and the brake booster (which came in the box with = the MC).

Step 8.  New MC installation:
Angle the new MC with the tank assembled and place = it on the pushrod coming
out of the booster.  You can press on the brake = pedal to see the rod to get
a better angle at it.  Ensure that the pushrod = inserts into the MC shaft.  I
used the same lock-ring washers and nut although two = new ones were also
supplied.  I used a magnetic wand to place the = washers and nuts on the
threads in the tight area. 
Torque it down to the right Nm from Bentley.
Refit the brake line circuits ensure that the = threads are aligned and
tighten down.
Refit the braided rubber hose for the Clutch MC. =
Fill with new brake fluid (I used DOT 4) and pump = the brakes a few times to
get the juices flowing
Bleed the brakes until clean clear fluid comes out = and all the air is
removed. - you know this routine.

Step 9.  Cleanup:
You are done. So you see this is one of the easier = jobs.  I did not spill
one bit of fluid.  If you do spill any fluid = use some alcohol to clean it up
and mop it up.  Alcohol will work on the = carpeting also to dissolves the
dripped brake fluid.

Good Luck - Hope this helps
Joel

Thanks,

Joel B. Cort

Xerox TSI
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