If your only problem is that you want to get the = cylinder back onto the piston after a "pull-off" then it is possible to do = without removing the piston from the connecting rod. Realize that this is = not the method taught in the factory schools and there is a chance for = difficulties, but in the tradition of Mr.. Muir, it can be done. When attempting to = get a piston into a cylinder, the biggest impediment is those darned rings. They have a distinct affinity to maintain a larger diameter = than the hole that you are trying to get them into. There exists = numerous specialized tools for coaxing these little buggers into the hole. = There are solid steel funnels that the V8 guys use that are practically = useless for us. There are pliers that connect to spring steel bands that are = sometimes useful if you can get access, and, when faced with getting them in while = the pistons are still mounted in a Waterboxer, you can use a hose clamp. I have a couple of screw type hoseclamps that I use = for this. First, they obviously have to be sized to fit the = piston. Secondly, you need to make sure that they wont damage the pistons or the = rings. To do that, I inspect the strap end that is connected = under the screw assembly. If that end is bent so that it will scrape = against the piston, I straighten it a little so that it will not dig in when it = slides down the piston. I liberally oil the rings and apply the clamp over all = three rings. Tighten only enough to compress the rings flush with the piston. It should hold them in sufficiently without being tight on = piston. Also, be sure to align the screw so that you have = access through the hole in the front of the water jacket to get a screwdriver = on it. Look at what you are doing and realize that you will probably = have to do the flywheel end before the pulley end piston gets in the way. = It will take a long screwdriver. With the rings compressed, slide the = cylinder over the piston until you come up against the clamp/rings. BTW, = now is the time to make sure that you have installed the base gasket before you go further. I use a soft coaxing device (a small chunk of 2x4) to = gently tap the cylinder over the piston. Be sure to constantly check that a = ring hasn't fallen out from beneath the clamp and gotten underneath the base = of the cylinder. If it does, you have to find a way to stick it back in = or start over. There is a taper on the bottom of the cylinder and will = allow the rings to go in if you don't get too aggressive. The 3 piece = oil ring on the bottom of the piston is the one that usually falls out from the = clamp and is a bear to get in. Keeping constant pressure on the cylinder = once you start is usually the solution. Realize that the piston will = rock sideways a little when you start and you can use this to your advantage = by catching one side of the ring and then the other. Once you get the = rings into the cylinder, you can completely unscrew the clamp and stretch the = band out from around the cylinder. Patience is a must, but it can be done.

If you must get into the case, you will have to = remove the pistons. Because they are inside the water jacket, conventional = methods do not work well (a socket extention and a hammer). First = problem is that access to the wristpin clips is limited. I have a pair of = pliers for circlips that has a 90 degree bend on the tip and it allows for access = from the side. I don't know of any other way without the pliers. Bend = yours or get the right ones, I guess. If you can get the proper = tool, then you can pull the pins out through the waterjacket holes and continue = after the clips have been removed. If you don't have the tool then you will = have to improvise. I crafted a tool from a long bolt and some = pipe. The requirements for the tool are as follows: The bolt is actually = threaded rod sized to fit into the bore of the wrist pin and be about = three times the piston diameter in length. The pipe bore has to be bigger than = the outer diameter of the wristpin and the outside of the pipe has to be = smaller than the hole in the waterjacket that lines up with the pin. This is = because the pipe will be pushing against the piston while reaching through the waterjacket. Length is about the same as a wristpin. Copper pipe might work nicely but mine is = steel so I made sure the edges are smooth and fit evenly against the = piston. A cap with a hole or a washer is used on the outer end and a nut that has = been gound down to fit through the piston (wristpin) is used on the other end. The procedure is something like this: = First, you remove the circlips on both sides of the piston. Secondly, try and = clean the varnish our of the wristpin bore with carb cleaner or = mechanically. Third, insert the threaded rod through the waterjacket hole and = through the wristpin. Fourth: thread your ground down nut onto = the screw as a way to grab the wristpin from behind. = Fifth: insert the pipe through the waterjacket hole and over the threaded shaft. = What you will be doing is pulling the pin into the pipe and out of the = piston. Sixth: install the cap or washer so that it will pull the shaft = through the pipe. Add a normal nut to the stack and turn so that it pulls = put the pin into the pipe and out of the piston. Be careful that the pipe = is centered on the hole so that the pin doesn't catch on the edge of the = pipe when it starts to come out of the piston.