When I bought a replacement FridgeMate fan about a = year ago, it came with a rocker switch and one of these contact = thermistors.  I have not tested the temp setting on it, but I = imagine it would be similar.  (My original was working = fine).  The fan with the switch, bracket, and thermistor cost = about $25 as I recall

Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.C= OM]On Behalf
> Of Ezra Hall
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 1:41 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Thermostat for Dometic Fridge (fan), = where to find?
>
>
> Where do I purchase a new thermostat for the = Dometic Fridge?
> This is the guy
> mentioned on the list to turn on at ~120-130 = Deg F and turn
> off at ~110 deg
> F. Currently I am running the fan (a = replacement muffin fan)
> whenever the fridge
> is on. I also installed a small computer CPU = fan above the
> fins on the inside
> of the fridge, it helps a lot! The local RV = dealer that sells
> Dometic fridges
> was clueless! Is there an efficiency = improvement if I leave
> the rear fan on
> all the time when running the fridge?
> I can't tell from
> http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm = if the rear
> cooling fins need to be a certain temp or just = cooled as much
> as possible. I
> am guessing that as long as the perc tube is = hot enough to
> vaporize the Ammonia,
> one can cool the condensor and other cooling = fins as much as
> they want, any
> comments?  Obviously running the fan = inside the fridge at all
> times is helpfull...
>
>
>
>  Also, I sealed the combustion chamber = with Blue permatex
> after cleaning, now
> it stays lit while driving at highway = speeds.
>
>  There have been a lot of postings lately = with regards to the
> flame LED, mine
> doesn't work now, where is the thermocouple = located? It
> worked prior to pulling
> the fridge just a week or two ago. If my memory = serves
> correct, there is a solid
> wire from the combustion chamber to the = mechanical thermostat
> which conducts
> heat from the flame to this mechanical gas flow = valve (the
> one which rotates
> and sets the flame strength). I assume when no = heat is
> conducted through this
> solid wire the gas flow valve doesn't turn on, = that is why
> one has to hold the
> "primer" down to initiate gas flow = until heated.
>
>   Is the electrical thermocouple = located in this
> valve/thermostat or did I forget
> about a wire going to the combustion chamber? I = have been to
> David Beirl's web
> site: http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
> and may perform the simple modifications he = suggests, but
> something is obviously
> awry from my last pull of the fridge..
>
> I performed the air pump modification, it = lights much better
> now. I also used
> a free re-build kit from Manchester to repair = the auto-stop
> valve on the LP
> tank, what nice folks to send me a free kit! I = also replaced
> the regulator with
> a 390 unit I believe? Thanks to whomever it was = that sent me
> the Manchester
> auto-stop rebuild tip!
>
> Thanks!
>  Ezra
>
> on digest, please copy directly = (ehall@together.net)
>