Brent,
as I remember the FridgeMate fan does = indeed come with a thermoswitch, but it is not set to switch on and off at the same temperature settings... I forget whether it is higher or lower than = stock... but I decided to use stock as I figured the Dometic engineers knew best.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: BRENT CHRISTENSEN
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 = 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: Thermostat for = Dometic Fridge (fan), where to find?

When I bought a replacement FridgeMate fan about a = year ago, it came with a rocker switch and one of these contact = thermistors.  I have not tested the temp setting on it, but I imagine it would be similar.  (My original was working fine).  The fan with the = switch, bracket, and thermistor cost about $25 as I recall

Brent Christensen
'89 GL = Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.CO= M]On Behalf
> Of Ezra Hall
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 1:41 PM
> To: = vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: = Thermostat for Dometic Fridge (fan), where to find?
>
>
> Where do = I purchase a new thermostat for the Dometic Fridge?
> This is the guy
> mentioned on the list to turn = on at ~120-130 Deg F and turn
> off at ~110 = deg
> F. Currently I am running the fan (a = replacement muffin fan)
> whenever the fridge =
> is on. I also installed a small computer CPU fan above = the
> fins on the inside
> of the fridge, it helps a lot! The local RV dealer that sells =
> Dometic fridges
> was = clueless! Is there an efficiency improvement if I leave
> the rear fan on
> all the time when running = the fridge?
> I can't tell from =
> http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm = if the rear
> cooling fins need to be a certain = temp or just cooled as much
> as possible. = I
> am guessing that as long as the perc tube is = hot enough to
> vaporize the Ammonia, =
> one can cool the condensor and other cooling fins as = much as
> they want, any
> comments?  Obviously running the fan inside the fridge at all
> times is helpfull...
>
>
> =
>  Also, I sealed the combustion chamber with Blue = permatex
> after cleaning, now
> it stays lit while driving at highway speeds.
>
>  There have been a lot of postings = lately with regards to the
> flame LED, = mine
> doesn't work now, where is the thermocouple = located? It
> worked prior to pulling =
> the fridge just a week or two ago. If my memory serves
> correct, there is a solid =
> wire from the combustion chamber to the mechanical = thermostat
> which conducts
> heat from the flame to this mechanical gas flow valve (the
> one which rotates
> and = sets the flame strength). I assume when no heat is
> = conducted through this
> solid wire the gas flow = valve doesn't turn on, that is why
> one has to = hold the
> "primer" down to initiate gas flow = until heated.
>
>   Is the electrical thermocouple located in this
> valve/thermostat or did I forget
> about = a wire going to the combustion chamber? I have been to
> David Beirl's web
> site: http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ =
> and may perform the simple modifications he suggests, = but
> something is obviously
> awry from my last pull of the fridge..
>
> I performed the air pump modification, it lights much better
> = now. I also used
> a free re-build kit from = Manchester to repair the auto-stop
> valve on the = LP
> tank, what nice folks to send me a free kit! I = also replaced
> the regulator with =
> a 390 unit I believe? Thanks to whomever it was that = sent me
> the Manchester
> auto-stop rebuild tip!
>
> Thanks!
>  Ezra =
>
> on digest, please copy = directly (ehall@together.net)
>