PLEASE KEEP YOUR PERSONAL AGENDA TO THE APPROPRIATE FORUM.
I'M SURE YOU ARE WELL MEANING IN SPREADING YOUR POINT
OF VIEW- BUT I'M INTERESTED IN VANAGONS.

THANKS,
STEVE

Matthew Bulley wrote:

G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Mount Olive, NC USA
877.658.1278 Tollfree
www.bulley-hewlett.com

My Agenda: Stop Suburban Sprawl.
My Methods: Revitalize older, highly-dense, urban towns. Champion
mass/rapid transit and fast Internet service to these towns. Demand
replacement of archaic, "separationist" zoning laws with neo-traditional
dense/mixed use zoning.
The Result: All Americans obtain superior living opportunities; sprawl is
restrained; and dense, beautiful, interlinked towns become our children's
inheritance.
Find out more at http://www.cnu.org

-----Original Message-----
From:   Matthew Bulley [SMTP:gmbulley@bulley-hewlett.com]
Sent:   Wednesday, July 26, 2000 4:00 PM
To:     'pokeswagon@blazenet.net'
Subject:        RE: ATF/MMO

Donna--

The guy who wrote the original post is a genius. ;-) wink.

Joking aside, KW is good flush, as is Gold Eagle, and a couple of others.
The ATF/MMO method is prolly a bit less caustic, since the viscosity of
both ATF and MMO are greater than the kerosene-like flushes.

The FLAP-jack has a good point though: if your motor is supremely filthy,
the quantity of crud loosened by ANY of these methods (including the
leave-in and drive around stuf) could cause more harm than good. If you
pull off a valve cover, and there is thick black gooey crud all over
everything, DON'T flush your motor. If it is a nice, translucent brown,
flush.

In a previous life, I used to rebuild VW motors, and folks who used the old
formulation of Quaker State had serious black gook build up (I think it was
because the Pennsylvania crude was higher in paraffin. Flushing these
motors was a big no-no.

Good luck

G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Mount Olive, NC USA
877.658.1278 Tollfree
www.bulley-hewlett.com

My Agenda: Stop Suburban Sprawl.
My Methods: Revitalize older, highly-dense, urban towns. Champion
mass/rapid transit and fast Internet service to these towns. Demand
replacement of archaic, "separationist" zoning laws with neo-traditional
dense/mixed use zoning.
The Result: All Americans obtain superior living opportunities; sprawl is
restrained; and dense, beautiful, interlinked towns become our children's
inheritance.
Find out more at http://www.cnu.org

-----Original Message-----
From:   (Donna Cassano) [SMTP:pokeswagon@blazenet.net]
Sent:   Wednesday, July 26, 2000 3:31 PM
To:     vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject:        ATF/MMO

Hi List,

Let me tell you how the ATF/MMO treatment went, er -ah, didn't went.

This is what I was going to do per an old posting to the List:
here's the post....
<<
Warm up motor by driving.
Drain engine oil. Change filter to any brand.
Refill with 1/2 & 1/2  engine oil and Automatic Transmission fluid, any
brand.
Start motor, BUT DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN!!!!
Allow the motor to idle, and rev it gently every once in a while  (like
to
2,000 rpm) for about 20 minutes.
Drain Oil. Change filter to MANN or VW brand filter (NO Fram, Autocrap,
AC
Smelco, etc.)
Refill with Castrol 20w50, and about 8-16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil.
In 1,000 to 1,500 miles change your oil again and use a MANN or VW
filter.
Kiss your ticking lifter goodbye.

The ATF is HIGHLY detergent, and will clean out the lifter. The Marvel
Mystery oil will continue the process. The good filter will prevent the
oil
from draining out of the lifters overnight.
After all of that is done,  run a compression check to verify that you
don't have any bum valves. You prolly don't.
>>

I went to my trusty friend Gil's shop to see if he could give me bay
space on this rainy day and when I told him what I was going to do he
tells me that he usually justs runs the KW engine flush and then adds
new oil. Said he does it with all his engines and it works great.
Quicker, easier, and less wasted oil. So I head to the local (?)
AutoZone to get a can of this stuff. The guy at AutoZone asks how many
miles do I have on the vehicle. I proudly say 180K. He goes, WOAH, you
don't want to use this stuff on a high mileage engine. Some of the junk
that's in there (my engine) is probably holding things together. Clear
out the junk and your gonna end up with leaks and troubles. Sells me
this much less expensive bottle of CD2 oil treatment that you add to
current oil, drive around a while up to 2000 miles), drain and refill
with your new oil.

So now I'm totally confused. Tell me what to do List. I want the voice
of Vanagon experience.

Is there any truth to the claim that the gunk is holding things together
in there? And if so, how does the CD2 know which gunk to clean out and
which gunk to leave alone?
What are the benefits to the AFT/MMO over the KW Engine Flush? My lifter
only taps occassionally and the van is just a little sluggish - should I
bother?

Any experience is greatly appreciated.
TIA,
Peace - donna
'84 Westy (Pepe)