Thanks for the help on getting the gas =
rank hoses
in.
My procedure for doing this job(after =
losing a lot
of time doing head scratching) follows after some commentary. My =
van is an
early 90GL. God help the Synchro owners on this one!!
First, the photos in the Bentley were =
of marginal
help and text even less. Bentley did warn of sanitation needs and =
Ken
should add that to his instructions. There must be differences in =
the way
these crossover pipes are mounted if you take Ken's directions to heart. =
My tank
filler tube had no hose clamp on it, it was a press in/crimp job up by =
the gas
cap. The twin saddle tanks were dificult at best to remove despite only =
one
nut/washer holding them up. My hose arrangement was different than =
the
Bentley also as I had fuel hose crimped on the twin tanks and the =
plastic
T's. The Vanagain kit had adequate fuel hose to fix the old lines, =
but was
short several of the small hose clamps. By my count, I needed 17 hose =
clampsand
not the 10 supplied(one for the return line on driver's side of the =
tank).
I would've liked to have had the o ring for the fuel sender included in =
this
kit, but maybe they never leak. Would've also liked the rubber =
nipple seal
that goes between the overflow tube(tube from side of filler neck =
that
goes into one of the new grommets on pass. side) Silicone will =
have to do
for this trip. Also siliconed the back of the crimp job as part of PM, I =
guess.
Another hassle I ran into was getting =
the front of
the van high enough to get the tank support bars to work their way out =
of the
hole in the frame. Driving the van up on the ramps was not sufficient, =
so I had
to precariously use the Sears 3 ton floor jack coupled with a cinder =
block
conglomeration to get the nose high enough to clear both of the =
supports.
The tank was wedged in there pretty good so after draining the fuel(as =
much as I
could), I pryed it out and it fell rather abruptly, pulling out =
the
barb/T's from the tank and leaving the old cross pipe hanging from the =
bracket
clamp on the body. Didn't know about that one and no way could I =
see
it. Since I'd already cut all the hoses from the tanks, it was =
time to
grind off the crimp connections with the carbide router tip in my Dremel =
tool.
Plugged up the hole in the tank for sanitation reasons and for fear of a =
big
boom that could've resulted. Cut and fit the new hose(very =
tight fit
despite using MMO to lube the friction points) Somewhere in all =
that mess,
I meticuously cleaned the top and sides of the tank while the holes were =
still
plugged ala Bentley rules. Used simple green and 409. Good =
news was
there wasn't a lick of rust in the bottom of the tank and no sediment =
coming out
of the drain hole.
Now the fun starts. I got the =
clamps on the
copper lines that flank the sides of the tank and inserted the plastic =
pieces
and put the crossover pipe on top of the coolant hoses thinking I =
could
reach them from the front and push the 3 barbs down from there. =
Bolt the
tank in place and go to the front and flail for an hour to try and =
get the
hand/forearm in far enough to get the barbs pushed down. =
Remembered
someone on the list saying it was tight, but my arm wasn't getting =
within 6" of
the grommets. Decided to sleep on it and start over Sunday AM =
before
church.
With the list help, I finally wedged =
the tank in
the front lip and let the back end hang down, supported by an 8" =
cinderblock and
a couple 1" shims. The back needs major support here as you are =
going to
be pushing real hard to get the barbs in. 303 protectant or MMO =
should
make that easier. Ken recommended Vaseline, but didn't have =
any.
Ended up that I had to thread the crossover pipe over everything =
including a
small hydraulic line of some sort and e-brake cable. Still haven't =
figured
out how to get the clamp on. With this angle of atttack and the =
tank
firmly supported I was able to get the driver's side in by laying on my =
side and
reaching way up and pushing as hard as I could. Success! Now =
to the
other side where I have two connectors to pop in. Did the overflow =
pipe
first, but the slack in the crossover pipe now was severely restricted( =
in the
future, I would buy more hose instead of that piece of plastic, whatever =
diameter it it). a lot of wrestling and fancy language later I got =
it in
and then came the critical step; lifting the rear of the tank with =
everything in place knowing that if it fell, we got to start all over
again. Got lucky and nothing fell and got the tank bolted =
in. Felt
comfortable hooking up the return and supply lines at that =
point.
Next nightmare was pushing in the =
filler neck back
in to the tank. My filler neck has a plastic ball check valve on =
it to
prevent gas from sloshing up the neck on hard left hand turns I guess, =
but no
photo of that in Bentley. Heck, it took me 30 minutes during =
disassembly
to figure out how the plastic body piece came loose from the body so the =
filler
neck can be freed( rotating it counter clockwise did the trick). I =
digress. The big o-ring grommet was tighter than Dick's hat band =
installed
on the tank and I was gingerly pushing so I wouldn't damage either =
the
ball valve or the neck(remember 11 yr. old plastic here and Sun. =
AM) It
finally went and then I hooked up the hoses and returned the gas to the
tank.
So far, so good. Film at 11!! I'm =
not dissin'
Ken's instructions, but he may have done this fix on a hoist and not =
known
aboutthe clearance problems us back yard mechanics have to deal =
with. When
time permits, I'll maybe get these organized a little better. =
Maybe a
Vanagons for Dummies book is in the offing.
Got to save someone out there from all =
this
hassle. Remember, most of us graduated from the John Muir book =
mentality
of working on the VW.
Dimwitted moose and Flying
Squirrel