Thanks for the help on getting the gas = rank hoses in.
 
My procedure for doing this job(after = losing a lot of time doing head scratching) follows after some commentary.  My = van is an early 90GL. God help the Synchro owners on this one!!
 
First, the photos in the Bentley were = of marginal help and text even less.  Bentley did warn of sanitation needs and = Ken should add that to his instructions. There must be differences  in = the way these crossover pipes are mounted if you take Ken's directions to heart. = My tank filler tube had no hose clamp on it, it was a press in/crimp job up by = the gas cap. The twin saddle tanks were dificult at best to remove despite only = one nut/washer holding them up.  My hose arrangement was different than = the Bentley also as I had fuel hose crimped on the twin tanks and the = plastic T's.  The Vanagain kit had adequate fuel hose to fix the old lines, = but was short several of the small hose clamps. By my count, I needed 17 hose = clampsand not the 10 supplied(one for the return line on driver's side of the = tank).  I would've liked to have had the o ring for the fuel sender included in = this kit, but maybe they never leak.  Would've also liked the rubber = nipple seal that goes between the overflow tube(tube from side of filler neck  = that goes into one of the new grommets on pass. side)  Silicone will = have to do for this trip. Also siliconed the back of the crimp job as part of PM, I = guess.
 
Another hassle I ran into was getting = the front of the van high enough to get the tank support bars to work their way out = of the hole in the frame. Driving the van up on the ramps was not sufficient, = so I had to precariously use the Sears 3 ton floor jack coupled with a cinder = block conglomeration to get the nose high enough to clear both of the = supports.  The tank was wedged in there pretty good so after draining the fuel(as = much as I could),  I pryed it out and it fell rather abruptly, pulling out = the barb/T's from the tank and leaving the old cross pipe hanging from the = bracket clamp on the body.  Didn't know about that one and no way could I = see it.  Since I'd already cut all the hoses from the tanks, it was = time to grind off the crimp connections with the carbide router tip in my Dremel = tool. Plugged up the hole in the tank for sanitation reasons and for fear of a = big boom that could've resulted.   Cut and fit the new hose(very = tight fit despite using MMO to lube the friction points)  Somewhere in all = that mess, I meticuously cleaned the top and sides of the tank while the holes were = still plugged ala Bentley rules.  Used simple green and 409.  Good = news was there wasn't a lick of rust in the bottom of the tank and no sediment = coming out of the drain hole. 
 
Now the fun starts.  I got the = clamps on the copper lines that flank the sides of the tank and inserted the plastic = pieces and put the crossover pipe on top of the coolant hoses thinking I = could reach them from the front and push the 3 barbs down from there.  = Bolt the tank  in place and go to the front and flail for an hour to try and = get the hand/forearm in far enough to get the barbs pushed down.  = Remembered someone on the list saying it was tight, but my arm wasn't getting = within 6" of the grommets.  Decided to sleep on it and start over Sunday AM = before church.
 
With the list help, I finally wedged = the tank in the front lip and let the back end hang down, supported by an 8" = cinderblock and a couple 1" shims.  The back needs major support here as you are = going to be pushing real hard to get the barbs in.  303 protectant or MMO = should make that easier.  Ken recommended Vaseline, but didn't have = any.  Ended up that I had to thread the crossover pipe over everything = including a small hydraulic line of some sort and e-brake cable.  Still haven't = figured out how to get the clamp on.  With this angle of atttack and the = tank firmly supported I was able to get the driver's side in by laying on my = side and reaching way up and pushing as hard as I could. Success!  Now = to the other side where I have two connectors to pop in.  Did the overflow = pipe first, but the slack in the crossover pipe now was severely restricted( = in the future, I would buy more hose instead of that piece of plastic, whatever = diameter it it).  a lot of wrestling and fancy language later I got = it in and then came the critical step;  lifting the rear of the tank with = everything in place knowing that if it fell, we got to start all over again.  Got lucky and nothing fell and got the tank bolted = in.  Felt comfortable hooking up the return and supply lines at that = point.
 
Next nightmare was pushing in the = filler neck back in to the tank.  My filler neck has a plastic ball check valve on = it to prevent gas from sloshing up the neck on hard left hand turns I guess, = but no photo of that in Bentley.  Heck, it took me 30 minutes during = disassembly to figure out how the plastic body piece came loose from the body so the = filler neck can be freed( rotating it counter clockwise did the trick).  I = digress.  The big o-ring grommet was tighter than Dick's hat band = installed on the tank and I was  gingerly pushing so I wouldn't damage either = the ball valve or the neck(remember 11 yr. old plastic here and Sun. = AM)  It finally went and then I hooked up the hoses and returned the gas to the tank. 
 
So far, so good. Film at 11!!  I'm = not dissin' Ken's instructions, but he may have done this fix on a hoist and not = known aboutthe clearance problems us back yard mechanics have to deal = with.  When time permits, I'll maybe get these organized a little better.  = Maybe a Vanagons for Dummies book is in the offing.
 
Got to save someone out there from all = this hassle.  Remember, most of us graduated from the John Muir book = mentality of  working on the VW.
 
Dimwitted moose and Flying Squirrel