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To cancel your subscription, clickREMOVE ME 3.9 ¢ to 4.9 ¢ a minute, Anytime ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:19:25 -0500 Reply-To: jhlauterbach Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: jhlauterbach Organization: Microsoft Corporation Subject: Engine cover latch How does one repair an engine cover latch. The latch tab on the passenger's side broke off on my '84. Are replacement parts available? John Lauterbach Macon, GA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:25:44 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts Comments: To: MF In-Reply-To: MF 's message of Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:57:59 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Hey all, Been following the "shear bolt" theories, ideas, etc. and on the way home this evening, I looked down at my steering wheel / column, and I hoped and prayed to God, that in the event of an accident that this assembly doesn't shear off it's mounts, and hit me in the face or chest. I haven't got the foggiest idea why in the hell anyone would assume that these bolts were designed to snap in the event of an catastrophic event. Sit in your front seat and check this scenario out. It's not a pretty thought, getting harpooned by the steering column !! Anti - theft devise? Nope--- pop the lock and go--no gleep artist would even waste there time to even think about dropping the steering column. Takes too long. Easier way to remove the lock assembly? Nope--- The lock is serviceable without going to this extreme. The only thing that may be feasible is the Krauts may have a pre - set special impact, for a given torque that puts them in all at once. And even this thought it really off the wall. Why in the hell wouldn't they want anyone to be able to remove or replace them with conventional tools? Nuts !! Next Idea !!!! ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 20:45:10 -0700 Reply-To: jbrush@AROS.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Brush Subject: Re: Bus Transport by Train? In-Reply-To: <49.9232334.27ec12fe@aol.com> >I do not believe that the private railroads want the business that you >are seeking. No, they can go broke without our business. They are doing just that :) Its really too bad because I think shipping a vehicle from point to point is a great idea that I have looked for and wanted for a long time. I am in Utah, would love to go back home and visit New Jersey, and spend some time in New England showing the sites to my children, but I ain't a gonna drive across flyover country with my children because I am a working class stiff and I don't get enough vacation for such thing. I would give the money it would cost to rent a van for 2 weeks, and then some to the railroads, but they don't want it. Maybe someday we will have companies that do what the customer wants, instead of what the stockholders demand :-) On the other hand........ probably not...... John ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:51:14 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts-FINI Comments: To: moby@coastalnet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/22/01 9:57:32 PM, moby@COASTALNET.COM writes: << I was also told these are for tamper resistance, not Anti-theft, just tamper resistant. Being steering is rather critical.... >> Matt, Thank God! Finally someone who offers something that makes sense. Now for your next question: Why do perfectly intelligent people who are not familiar with a Vanagon try to pull out on the slider door handle instead of rotating it? Rich ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:48:59 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On the same note, why did they place stickshift assembly so far forward? With looong throws too.Are they long-armed? I could add a few more... Leon Terry Kay wrote: > Hey all, > Been following the "shear bolt" theories, ideas, etc. and on the way > home this evening, I looked down at my steering wheel / column, and I > hoped and prayed to God, that in the event of an accident that this > assembly doesn't shear off it's mounts, and hit me in the face or chest. > I haven't got the foggiest idea why in the hell anyone would assume that > these bolts were designed to snap in the event of an catastrophic event. > Sit in your front seat and check this scenario out. > It's not a pretty thought, getting harpooned by the steering column !! > Anti - theft devise? > Nope--- pop the lock and go--no gleep artist would even waste there time > to even think about dropping the steering column. > Takes too long. > Easier way to remove the lock assembly? > Nope--- The lock is serviceable without going to this extreme. > The only thing that may be feasible is the Krauts may have a pre - set > special impact, for a given torque that puts them in all at once. > And even this thought it really off the wall. > Why in the hell wouldn't they want anyone to be able to remove or > replace them with conventional tools? > > Nuts !! > > Next Idea !!!! > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | > ||-(())----(())-| > > Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:54:50 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: Engine cover latch MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you have Vanagon(not Westfalia) you can install simple hinges and some support (similar to engine hood supports on cars) when cover is open, much more convenient than pulling that cover out every time. I haven't done it but planning to do soon. Leon 85 Subwagen Westy jhlauterbach wrote: > How does one repair an engine cover latch. The latch tab on the passenger's > side broke off on my '84. Are replacement parts available? > > John Lauterbach > Macon, GA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:00:38 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: Reinforced Tires - was Yokohama Tires Revisited MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have recently purchased a set of Firestone Firehawk R4S tires. 27x8.50-14, load range C, 1515 lbs at 50 PSI. I paid $63 plus about $30 for shipping from Tire Rack. Not only do they look great on my tall-sitting '85 Westy, but they ride very nicely. My speedo now reads about 3% low, but the taller tires seemed to complement the engine and the vehicle. My steering is now so light in parking lots that I don't miss my power steering any more. They are quiet. I don't notice any power loss, not even on the highway. I mounted them with the white letters to the outside just to get that SYNCRO SENSATION! Chris, '85 Westy 'The Luv Box' ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:39:38 -0700 Reply-To: Double-Cab Guy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Double-Cab Guy Subject: Where is Poznan? Comments: To: Syncro@egroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0B318.984C5420" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0B318.984C5420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Volks, I recently received a letter from VW A.G. with the build date and = location of my newest Double-Cab. The letter states that the model is "247GC5" . I know 247 is a Double-Cab but what is this "CG5" on the end? The letter goes on to state that the vehicle was built on the 28th of = November 1985 in Poznan. Where is Poznan?=20 I have never herd of that assembly plant.=20 I thought all Syncro T3's were built in Gaz Austria? According to the letter my new Double-Cab was originally sold to the = U.S.-Army on the 14 of April 1986. Can any one shed some light on this little mystery for me? Also for those of you that are interested the e-mail address for the VW = corporate archives section is=20 mailto:unternehmenserchiv@volkswagen.de Thanks Glen Cook ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0B318.984C5420 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Volks,
 
I recently received a letter from VW A.G. with = the build=20 date and location of my newest Double-Cab.
The letter states that the model is "247GC5"=20 .
I know 247 is a Double-Cab but what is = this=20 "CG5" on the end?
The letter goes on to state that the vehicle was = built on=20 the 28th of November 1985 in Poznan.
Where is Poznan?
I have never herd of that assembly plant. =
I thought all Syncro = T3's were=20 built in Gaz Austria?
According to the letter my new Double-Cab was = originally=20 sold to the U.S.-Army on the 14 of April 1986.
Can any one shed some light on this little = mystery for=20 me?
 
Also for those of you that are interested the = e-mail=20 address for the VW corporate archives section is
mailto:unternehmenserchi= v@volkswagen.de
 
Thanks
Glen Cook
------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0B318.984C5420-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 00:18:37 -0500 Reply-To: MF Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: MF Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts-FINI Comments: To: JKrevnov@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maybe it's a shear handle, for Anti-theft... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 10:51 PM Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts-FINI > > In a message dated 3/22/01 9:57:32 PM, moby@COASTALNET.COM writes: > > << I was also told these are for tamper resistance, not Anti-theft, just > tamper > > resistant. Being steering is rather critical.... >> > > Matt, > > Thank God! Finally someone who offers something that makes sense. Now for > your next question: Why do perfectly intelligent people who are not familiar > with a Vanagon try to pull out on the slider door handle instead of rotating > it? > > Rich > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 00:21:58 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts-FINI Comments: To: moby@coastalnet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 12:16:59 AM, moby@coastalnet.com writes: << Maybe it's a shear handle, for Anti-theft... >> Good. Now I know won't have to lock it. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:41:58 -0700 Reply-To: Steve Blackham Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Blackham Subject: Shift rod boot? and seats Comments: cc: type2@type2.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" I'm just bottoning up my new project (11/82). Page 34.2 of Bentley (Vanagon) shows a picture of a shift rod boot just right of the guide ring. Is this the part #091-301-261 listed in Bus Depot web page. Need to confirm to order right part. I'm also disgarding the rear seats on this unit to make it a work van. I'm assuming that the seats unbolt from the bottom of the van. Right? Thanks -- Steve Blackham Centerville, Utah 77 transporter converted to camper (Westy top) 83 Vanagon (New and current project) 87 Weekender ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 23:45:30 -0600 Reply-To: cskanute@BITSTREAM.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad Knutson Subject: Re: Reinforced Tires - was Yokohama Tires Revisited Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Interesting . . . My experience with various auto tires is limited. I'll take note of the wet/dry/cement/asphalt performance of the Contis and get back to the list. Regarding the Continentals being extremely expensive, that wasn't my experience in this particular instance. Michelins were expensive--nearly twice as much. Would have liked to have gone with them, though. They get pretty high marks from the volks who use them. Chad Minneapolis '87 Wolfy ---------- >From: Andrew Grebneff >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: Reinforced Tires - was Yokohama Tires Revisited >Date: Thu, Mar 22, 2001, 5:12 PM > >>Spec-wise, the Contis are solid. Here's the link: >> >>http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Continental&model=Contact+CR21 >> >>Might have mentioned this, but my previous tires were 205s, brand unknown. >>Might >>have been Uniroyal. Although they were nice tires in perfect weather, they were >>terrible winter tires for me. Too wide. I went through a stretch of being stuck >>every time I parked it anywhere near snow or ice, of which there is plenty in >>Minnesota. The Continentals were an enormous improvement. Adding a little >>weight >>in the back end didn't hurt either. > >I was talking to a tire outfit on Monday re tires for 16" & 17" alloy >wheels. The guy said that Continentals are very poor tires, as well as >extremely expensive. They are designed for CONCRETE roads, where they work >well in wet & dry. But on oily asphalt roads (as most paved roads are) they >are slippery as hell, even in the dry (this was my own experience with >Conti Twins bike tires... an old rubber-framed Honda CB350 Twin with >near-zero cornering clearance, but you couldn't even scrape the footpegs as >the rear Conti would let go!). > >So the Conti 205/55R16 ContiTouringContacts on my CLK wheels will have to go! > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 00:52:45 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Shift rod boot? and seats Comments: To: steph@uswest.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f7.85d32a6.27ec3ead_boundary" --part1_f7.85d32a6.27ec3ead_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 12:44:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, steph@USWEST.NET writes: > I'm assuming that the seats unbolt from the bottom of the van. > Right? > > remove the sliding door carpet threshold, roll the carpet back, remove the 13mm, the seat slides out chris --part1_f7.85d32a6.27ec3ead_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 12:44:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
steph@USWEST.NET writes:


I'm assuming that the seats unbolt from the bottom of the van.
Right?




remove the sliding door carpet threshold, roll the carpet back, remove the
13mm, the seat slides out
chris --part1_f7.85d32a6.27ec3ead_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:00:28 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: engine cover MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > How does one repair an engine cover latch. The latch tab on the passenger's > side broke off on my '84. Are replacement parts available? > > John Lauterbach > Macon, GA > John, if you were close I'd say swing by and I'll weld it back on for you with the new welder I'm having so much fun with. But, since you ain't, I'd suggest you take it to a metal fabricating place and have them weld it back on for you. Mark... ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:52:41 -0800 Reply-To: sg Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: sg Subject: halfway thru heater motor replacement - need advice! MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0043_01C0B322.CD3D9900" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C0B322.CD3D9900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable hi list, i know there has been lots o' talk about heater fan motor replacement = recently, but im halfway thru the job and i need some advice. ive = gotten the dash off (jeepers, this was a pain in the ass), and ive done = various electrical trouble shooting on the motor such as testing = power/gnd to make sure it wasnt a simple fix (which it wasnt ;( ). now = i need to get at the blower moter, and ive cracked the seals on the = heater assembly, but there appear to be some seals and/or retaining = clips all the way in the back of the assembly, ie in the space between = the assembly and the sheet metal the dash bolts down onto, totally = unaccessable by human hands. anybody dealt with getting this assembly = apart in order to get at the blower motor? did you run into this = problem? what did you do? the only thing i can think of is to give it = a good yank, and hope for the best ... -steve and buster ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C0B322.CD3D9900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
hi list,
i know there has been lots o' talk = about heater fan=20 motor replacement recently, but im halfway thru the job and i need some=20 advice.  ive gotten the dash off (jeepers, this was a pain in the = ass), and=20 ive done various electrical trouble shooting on the motor such as = testing=20 power/gnd to make sure it wasnt a simple fix (which it wasnt ;( ).  = now i=20 need to get at the blower moter, and ive cracked the seals on the heater = assembly, but there appear to be some seals and/or retaining clips = all the=20 way in the back of the assembly, ie in the space between the assembly = and the=20 sheet metal the dash bolts down onto, totally unaccessable by human = hands. =20 anybody dealt with getting this assembly apart in order to get at the = blower=20 motor?  did you run into this problem?  what did you do?  = the=20 only thing i can think of is to give it a good yank, and hope for the = best=20 ...
-steve and = buster
------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C0B322.CD3D9900-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 23:05:05 -0800 Reply-To: sg Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: sg Subject: shear bolts MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0B324.883A4A90" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0B324.883A4A90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable hi list, since ive just dealt with the infamous shear bolts, i thought i would = report my experience. indeed they are easy to get out with a pair of = vice grips, no drilling is needed. (which by the way means they arent = much of a theft protection system - even tho i personally believer this = is their purpose). im going to replace them with new ones i got at the = local vw dealer, for a whopping sum of $7.92 for the pair, kind of = expensive, i know, but worth peace of mind ... -steve and buster ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0B324.883A4A90 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
hi list,
since ive just dealt with the infamous = shear bolts,=20 i thought i would report my experience.  indeed they are easy to = get out=20 with a pair of vice grips, no drilling is needed.  (which by = the way=20 means they arent much of a theft protection system - even tho i = personally=20 believer this is their purpose).  im going to replace them with new = ones i=20 got at the local vw dealer, for a whopping sum of $7.92 for the pair, = kind of=20 expensive, i know, but worth peace of mind ...
-steve and = buster
------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0B324.883A4A90-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:48:59 +1100 Reply-To: David Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Subject: Re: Headrest Comments: To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm after 2 of the same colour. So if there is more than one out there can I join the queue???????? David 1990 Caravelle GL --- Send the right message --- + Today freemail + Get your free, private email address at http://www.today.com.au ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 01:01:03 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts Comments: To: Leon Korkin 'Cause if it were further back, it would be more in the way when you need to move around inside the van. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Leon Korkin" To: Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:48 PM Subject: Re: . . . & Those Damn Shear Bolts > On the same note, why did they place stickshift assembly so far forward? > With looong throws too.Are they long-armed? I could add a few more... > Leon > > > Terry Kay wrote: > > > Hey all, > > Been following the "shear bolt" theories, ideas, etc. and on the way > > home this evening, I looked down at my steering wheel / column, and I > > hoped and prayed to God, that in the event of an accident that this > > assembly doesn't shear off it's mounts, and hit me in the face or chest. > > I haven't got the foggiest idea why in the hell anyone would assume that > > these bolts were designed to snap in the event of an catastrophic event. > > Sit in your front seat and check this scenario out. > > It's not a pretty thought, getting harpooned by the steering column !! > > Anti - theft devise? > > Nope--- pop the lock and go--no gleep artist would even waste there time > > to even think about dropping the steering column. > > Takes too long. > > Easier way to remove the lock assembly? > > Nope--- The lock is serviceable without going to this extreme. > > The only thing that may be feasible is the Krauts may have a pre - set > > special impact, for a given torque that puts them in all at once. > > And even this thought it really off the wall. > > Why in the hell wouldn't they want anyone to be able to remove or > > replace them with conventional tools? > > > > Nuts !! > > > > Next Idea !!!! > > > > ______________ > > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > > | | | | > > ||-(())----(())-| > > > > Terry 85 GL > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 01:23:08 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Was head leak; then ring and valve. Turned into rebuild. Now, the case is crap! LONGISH I haven't reported on my travails lately, and I'm sure all who car have assumed that the project is long since over, however . . . I pulled the heads to fix a leak, though I wasn't quite sure where it was coming from. Kinda looked like from under one of the stud nuts, but couldn't be sure. As it turned out, the head had a crack above the stud, which, when torqued, caused a bit of separation in the head. Presto leako! I checked the rings at this point, and determined they were right about at the Bently wear limit, so in go new rings. I had a real hard time with putting the wrist pin back in, and had to shelf the project for a week and a half due to a fine-art photo show in which I was participating. One of the things that has been running around in the back of my head is that I didn't like the amount of fore and aft movement afforded by the connecting rods, especially #2. It also seemed that, in addition to the rod moving on the journal, the small end of the rod was moving considerably more than was the large end. Well, this morning I finally broke down and removed that rod. sure enough, the bearing was shoeing just a bit of copper. On the advice of regular mechanic, I took out the rest of the rods (#2 was the one with the most wear) and split the case to check/replace the mains. So, I'm sitting there looking at something I've never seen before and wondering just exactly what it should look like. I call my mechanic and ask him how serious it is that the front (rear)(by the clutch) bearings positioning hole is rather elongated. He says, "Yeah. That means the case is most likely junk!". Upon further examination, I noticed that the locating pin in the case is wobbling around, and I can pick it out with my fingernails. Bad sign, I think to myself. The bearing is so displaced that the outer shoulder is completely gone. What would cause the engine to wear in this manner? The only thing I'm really looking for here is some commiseration and warm wishes. Also thought some of you might be interested in my progress, or lack of it. Luckily, I have a spare (a lot of miles, but a good engine). I am starting to tear it down, and will have a pretty good handle on which way to jump by tomorrow pm. Thanks, Karl ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 03:42:06 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: halfway thru heater motor replacement - need advice! Comments: To: sg@sunsetwinona.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b9.c755278.27ec665e_boundary" --part1_b9.c755278.27ec665e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 1:54:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, sg@SUNSETWINONA.COM writes: > . :<) BTDT i feel your pain..... chris --part1_b9.c755278.27ec665e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 1:54:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
sg@SUNSETWINONA.COM writes:


.  ive gotten the dash off (jeepers, this was a pain in the ass),


:<)    BTDT i feel your pain.....
chris --part1_b9.c755278.27ec665e_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 03:42:46 -0600 Reply-To: Mark Ingalls Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Ingalls Subject: Re: voltage question Comments: To: pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed With the engine warmed up and the sensor disconnected, the 02 sensor should put out between .1 and .9 volts DC. The red wire on the multi-meter would go to the 02 sensor wire and the black wire to a ground. Mark Ingalls 85 Gl >From: Jason Willenbrock >Reply-To: Jason Willenbrock >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: voltage question >Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 16:42:08 -0500 > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:00:08 EST Reply-To: Wolfvan88@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Lilley Subject: Re: 15" alloys and 14" spare Comments: To: drew@bomb-proof.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_72.8dff963.27ec94c8_boundary" --part1_72.8dff963.27ec94c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you put 205x65x15 tires and the spare 205x70x14 the outer diameter should be close to the same. Robert --part1_72.8dff963.27ec94c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you put 205x65x15 tires and the spare 205x70x14 the outer diameter should
be close to the same.

Robert --part1_72.8dff963.27ec94c8_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:09:19 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: Where is Poznan? Comments: To: Double-Cab Guy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B35F.CC58A380" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B35F.CC58A380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable There's a Poznan in Poland. Not far from where I grew up. But I do not = recall any VWs being assembled in Poland, especially in the mid-80's. = Fiat, maybe, but not VW. Chris, '85 Westy. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Double-Cab Guy=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 10:39 PM Subject: Where is Poznan? Hi Volks, I recently received a letter from VW A.G. with the build date and = location of my newest Double-Cab. The letter states that the model is "247GC5" . I know 247 is a Double-Cab but what is this "CG5" on the end? The letter goes on to state that the vehicle was built on the 28th of = November 1985 in Poznan. Where is Poznan?=20 I have never herd of that assembly plant.=20 I thought all Syncro T3's were built in Gaz Austria? According to the letter my new Double-Cab was originally sold to the = U.S.-Army on the 14 of April 1986. Can any one shed some light on this little mystery for me? Also for those of you that are interested the e-mail address for the = VW corporate archives section is=20 mailto:unternehmenserchiv@volkswagen.de Thanks Glen Cook ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B35F.CC58A380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
There's a Poznan in Poland.  Not far from where = I grew=20 up.  But I do not recall any VWs being assembled in Poland, = especially in=20 the mid-80's.  Fiat, maybe, but not VW.
 
Chris,
 
'85 Westy.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Double-Cab Guy
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 = 10:39=20 PM
Subject: Where is Poznan?

Hi Volks,
 
I recently received a letter from VW A.G. with = the build=20 date and location of my newest Double-Cab.
The letter states that the model is "247GC5"=20 .
I know 247 is a Double-Cab but what = is this=20 "CG5" on the end?
The letter goes on to state that the vehicle = was built=20 on the 28th of November 1985 in Poznan.
Where is Poznan?
I have never herd of that assembly plant. =
I thought all Syncro = T3's were=20 built in Gaz Austria?
According to the letter my new Double-Cab was = originally=20 sold to the U.S.-Army on the 14 of April 1986.
Can any one shed some light on this little = mystery for=20 me?
 
Also for those of you that are interested the = e-mail=20 address for the VW corporate archives section is
mailto:unternehmenserchi= v@volkswagen.de
 
Thanks
Glen = Cook
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B35F.CC58A380-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:21:37 -0500 Reply-To: Gary Stearns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary Stearns Subject: Re: Lowering the vanagon MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Boundary_(ID_MPiHiOgH6rRpU/+96tABJw)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_MPiHiOgH6rRpU/+96tABJw) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT If you look at the design of the rear springs, you'll see that you really can't cut coils without ruining the spring's ability to locate itself in the mounts. Similar in the front, VW made the springs so that the last coil on each end has a flattened pitch to fit the mount. I have tried cutting coils, you can't make it work. The only way if you are stuck on the butchering technique is heating and collapsing the coils. You have to know how to do this, or you'll wind up with great small boat anchors that look like springs. I suggest a set of the lowering springs available through one of the list vendors (stay away from the H&R Springs though, poorly designed). Finally, any lowering is going to require upgraded shocks. Stock or worn out shocks can't handle it. Riding a kangarooing Vanagon might be fun, but it's also dangerous. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Shawn To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:31 PM Subject: Lowering the vanagon Hello, I own a 1984 vanagon and was looking for some info on lowering the low buck way (cutting the coil springs). I have done this before to other vehicles with success, but i had the proper info from others that have worked out all the problems they came across while doing these projects. I have no knoledge of the vanagon as far as whats going to happen with camber (+ -). I also need to know how many coils to cut and still keep tension on the spring when the van is jacked up off the gruond. Has anyone done this or is this a project i should just forget about. Thanks Shawn --Boundary_(ID_MPiHiOgH6rRpU/+96tABJw) Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
If you look at the design of the rear springs, you'll see that you really can't cut coils without ruining the spring's ability to locate itself in the mounts.  Similar in the front, VW made the springs so that the last coil on each end has a flattened pitch to fit the mount.  I have tried cutting coils, you can't make it work.  The only way if you are stuck on the butchering technique is heating and collapsing the coils.  You have to know how to do this, or you'll wind up with great small boat anchors that look like springs.  I suggest a set of the lowering springs available through one of the list vendors (stay away from the H&R Springs though, poorly designed).  Finally, any lowering is going to require upgraded shocks.  Stock or worn out shocks can't handle it.  Riding a kangarooing Vanagon might be fun, but it's also dangerous.
 
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Shawn
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Lowering the vanagon

Hello,
    I own a 1984 vanagon and was looking for some info on lowering the
low buck way (cutting the coil springs). I have done this before to other
vehicles with success, but i had the proper info from others that have
worked out all the problems they came across while doing these projects.
    I have no knoledge of the vanagon as far as whats going to happen
with camber (+ -). I also need to know how many coils to cut and still
keep tension on the spring when the van is jacked up off the gruond.
   Has anyone done this or is this a project i should just forget about.
Thanks
Shawn
--Boundary_(ID_MPiHiOgH6rRpU/+96tABJw)-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:29:56 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B362.AD47BAA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B362.AD47BAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Went running this morning. Interesting thing happened. On my final = mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a hill. I gave it all I had. Sweat = beaded up on my forehead, my breath became chronically short and I = panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still managed to pass that Diesel = Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could with the go pedal = resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the transmission in = first gear. IT'S = FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B362.AD47BAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Went running this morning.  Interesting thing=20 happened.  On my final mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a = hill.  I=20 gave it all I had.  Sweat beaded up on my forehead,  my breath = became=20 chronically short and I panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still = managed to=20 pass that Diesel Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could = with the go=20 pedal resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the = transmission=20 in first gear.
 
IT'S=20 FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B362.AD47BAA0-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:43:08 -0500 Reply-To: MF Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: MF Subject: Re: Lowering the vanagon Comments: To: Gary Stearns MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01C0B36C.E79C6480" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C0B36C.E79C6480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wouldn't late model springs be a good low buck alterntative? Some of the = later factory springs are supposed to be 30 mm shorter with the same or = slightly improved handeling. You can also use factory shocks. I would = think they'd be easy to find, and relatively cheap. Chopping, cutting etc. will ruin any handleing the van has. Matt ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Gary Stearns=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 7:21 AM Subject: Re: Lowering the vanagon If you look at the design of the rear springs, you'll see that you = really can't cut coils without ruining the spring's ability to locate = itself in the mounts. Similar in the front, VW made the springs so that = the last coil on each end has a flattened pitch to fit the mount. I = have tried cutting coils, you can't make it work. The only way if you = are stuck on the butchering technique is heating and collapsing the = coils. You have to know how to do this, or you'll wind up with great = small boat anchors that look like springs. I suggest a set of the = lowering springs available through one of the list vendors (stay away = from the H&R Springs though, poorly designed). Finally, any lowering is = going to require upgraded shocks. Stock or worn out shocks can't handle = it. Riding a kangarooing Vanagon might be fun, but it's also dangerous. = Gary ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Shawn=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:31 PM Subject: Lowering the vanagon Hello, I own a 1984 vanagon and was looking for some info on lowering = the low buck way (cutting the coil springs). I have done this before to = other vehicles with success, but i had the proper info from others that = have worked out all the problems they came across while doing these = projects. I have no knoledge of the vanagon as far as whats going to = happen with camber (+ -). I also need to know how many coils to cut and = still keep tension on the spring when the van is jacked up off the gruond. Has anyone done this or is this a project i should just forget = about. Thanks Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C0B36C.E79C6480 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Wouldn't late model springs be a good = low buck=20 alterntative? Some of the later factory springs are supposed to be 30 mm = shorter=20 with the same or slightly improved handeling. You can also use factory = shocks. I=20 would think they'd be easy to find, and relatively cheap.
 
Chopping, cutting etc. will ruin any = handleing the=20 van has.
 
Matt
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Gary=20 Stearns
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 = 7:21=20 AM
Subject: Re: Lowering the = vanagon

If you look at the design of the rear = springs,=20 you'll see that you really can't cut coils without ruining the = spring's=20 ability to locate itself in the mounts.  Similar in the front, VW = made=20 the springs so that the last coil on each end has a flattened pitch to = fit the=20 mount.  I have tried cutting coils, you can't make it work.  = The=20 only way if you are stuck on the butchering technique is heating and=20 collapsing the coils.  You have to know how to do this, or you'll = wind up=20 with great small boat anchors that look like springs.  I suggest = a set of=20 the lowering springs available through one of the list vendors (stay = away from=20 the H&R Springs though, poorly designed).  Finally, any = lowering is=20 going to require upgraded shocks.  Stock or worn out shocks can't = handle=20 it.  Riding a kangarooing Vanagon might be fun, but it's also = dangerous.=20
 
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Shawn =
Sent: Thursday, March 22, = 2001 8:31=20 PM
Subject: Lowering the = vanagon

Hello,
    I own a 1984 = vanagon and was=20 looking for some info on lowering the
low buck way (cutting the coil = springs). I have=20 done this before to other
vehicles with success, but i had = the proper=20 info from others that have
worked out all the problems they = came across=20 while doing these projects.
    I have no = knoledge of the=20 vanagon as far as whats going to happen
with camber (+ -). I also need to = know how many=20 coils to cut and still
keep tension on the spring when the = van is=20 jacked up off the gruond.
   Has anyone done this = or is this a=20 project i should just forget about.
Thanks
Shawn
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C0B36C.E79C6480-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:27:05 -0600 Reply-To: Chris Stann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Stann Subject: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001E_01C0B362.47DB5FA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C0B362.47DB5FA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Went running this morning. Interesting thing happened. On my final = mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a hill. I gave it all I had. Sweat = beaded up on my forehead, my breath became chronically short and I = panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still managed to pass that Diesel = Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could with the go pedal = resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the transmission in = first gear. IT'S = FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C0B362.47DB5FA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Went running this morning.  Interesting thing=20 happened.  On my final mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a = hill.  I=20 gave it all I had.  Sweat beaded up on my forehead,  my breath = became=20 chronically short and I panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still = managed to=20 pass that Diesel Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could = with the go=20 pedal resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the = transmission=20 in first gear.
 
IT'S=20 FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C0B362.47DB5FA0-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 08:00:38 EST Reply-To: SBWC919@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian McClure Subject: questions of lifting saggy butt Vanagons,and coil spring spacers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, my subie powered Vanagon has developed a case of the dread VW disease Saggiemus Buttocks! I was in Pep boys today, and saw that they had some coil spring spacers that looked interesting. They were round 1 1/2 inch thick pads that would be put between the coil spring and the spring perch. Anybody tried these? What were your results?? Brian 83 Urabus- with a butt saggier than mine! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:03:10 -0500 Reply-To: Edward Woenker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Edward Woenker Subject: P.S. Whine MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A couple of you may recall that I asked a few weeks ago about a power = steering whine that developed after replacing hoses on an 86 Vanagon. = Well, since then, I rebuilt the pump (which looked very good inside) and = flushed the system with about 2.5 gallons of power steering fluid until = it was crystal clean. Still whines. Read the manuals, saw that they = always refer to ATF fluid, so flushed the system again, this time with 2 = gallons of ATF fluid. Still whines. =20 Now, there is no noise at the pump. I tried to trace the whine and it = seems to come from the passenger side right around the transmission and = not really the front of the van. Does anyone have any suggestions on = what may be causing this whine and how to fix it? And please don't = suggest cheese, I've already tried that but it gives the van gas :-P Thanks Ed Woenker ewoenker@kconline.com=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:59:18 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: Lowering the vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit snip >Riding a kangarooing Vanagon might be fun, but it's also dangerous. It's a lot more fun if your SO is sitting in your lap while 'kangarooing.' A lot more dangerous, but A LOT MORE FUN! he he he Chris. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:23:25 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: AFC Spring Adjustment Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Last night I'm looking at my old (spare) AFC and trying to figure out how to adjust the spring before opening up the new one this is in my '85 Westy. I want to lean it a few notches. It looks like there is a clip (looks like paper clip size wire) that is screwed down and retaining the large black gear. I want to turn this gear clockwise? If I remove the clip, how does this gear turn? I wasn't able to get the screw loose that holds the clip down. Does the gear lift and turn or what? Is clockwise leaner for sure? I only want to go 3 or 4 notches and try it with my voltemeter on the O2 sensor output. Jay ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:47:16 EST Reply-To: CMathis227@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chuck Mathis Subject: Re: AFC Spring Adjustment Comments: To: Jay.L.Snyder@usa.dupont.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jay, The trick is to gently pry the clip away from the wheel -- doesn't take a lot of force. Look closely at the big watch spring in the center and you'll be able to tell which way to turn the wheel to tighten the spring. I don't have mine in front of me but I think you turn the wheel clockwise to tighten the spring -- be careful about doing exactly what I say since I have been known to say something completely backward from what I did. Be sure to count the notches as you turn the wheel so you can put it back if the adjustment doesn't work. Chuck '85 Wolfsburg Westy -- 'Roland the Road Buffalo' In a message dated Fri, 23 Mar 2001 9:29:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, Jay L Snyder writes: << Last night I'm looking at my old (spare) AFC and trying to figure out how to adjust the spring before opening up the new one this is in my '85 Westy. I want to lean it a few notches. It looks like there is a clip (looks like paper clip size wire) that is screwed down and retaining the large black gear. I want to turn this gear clockwise? If I remove the clip, how does this gear turn? I wasn't able to get the screw loose that holds the clip down. Does the gear lift and turn or what? Is clockwise leaner for sure? I only want to go 3 or 4 notches and try it with my voltemeter on the O2 sensor output. Jay >> ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:48:36 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: halfway thru heater motor replacement - need advice! Comments: To: sg@sunsetwinona.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_c.12fedf43.27ecbc44_boundary" --part1_c.12fedf43.27ecbc44_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are 4 phillips head screws holding the heater box to the body. Remove these, and then you should have enough room to pull the box out and get to those tabs that need to be cut on the back. These screws are there (the upper ones are hard to see). Hope this helps. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_c.12fedf43.27ecbc44_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are 4 phillips head screws holding the heater box to the body.  Remove
these, and then you should have enough room to pull the box out and get to
those tabs that need to be cut on the back.  These screws are there (the
upper ones are hard to see).  Hope this helps.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_c.12fedf43.27ecbc44_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:52:19 -0800 Reply-To: "Patrick Callaghan Jr." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Patrick Callaghan Jr." Subject: Re: AFC Spring Adjustment Comments: To: CMathis227@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit And if I am right tightening leans & loosening richens the mixture. Am I correct? Pat Callaghan 82 Westy Portland, OR. http://www.users.qwest.net/~patcal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Mathis" To: Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 6:47 AM Subject: Re: AFC Spring Adjustment > Jay, > > The trick is to gently pry the clip away from the wheel -- doesn't take a lot of force. Look closely at the big watch spring in the center and you'll be able to tell which way to turn the wheel to tighten the spring. I don't have mine in front of me but I think you turn the wheel clockwise to tighten the spring -- be careful about doing exactly what I say since I have been known to say something completely backward from what I did. Be sure to count the notches as you turn the wheel so you can put it back if the adjustment doesn't work. > > Chuck > '85 Wolfsburg Westy -- 'Roland the Road Buffalo' > > In a message dated Fri, 23 Mar 2001 9:29:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, Jay L Snyder writes: > > << Last night I'm looking at my old (spare) AFC and trying to figure out how > to adjust the spring before opening up the new one this is in my '85 > Westy. I want to lean it a few notches. It looks like there is a clip > (looks like paper clip size wire) that is screwed down and retaining the > large black gear. I want to turn this gear clockwise? If I remove the > clip, how does this gear turn? I wasn't able to get the screw loose that > holds the clip down. Does the gear lift and turn or what? Is clockwise > leaner for sure? I only want to go 3 or 4 notches and try it with my > voltemeter on the O2 sensor output. > Jay > >> > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:39:38 -0500 Reply-To: "Forhan, Thomas" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Forhan, Thomas" Subject: Re: [Syncro] Where is Poznan? Comments: To: Double-Cab Guy , Syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3A7.1637CD40" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3A7.1637CD40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Poznan is in Poland. Interesting. When I was in Bosnia a couple of years ago, Vanagons were everywhere. Tons of them, clearly the predominent light truck and van. I asked, and it turned out VW had a Vanagon plant there too, before the civil war. I saw a few Syncros , but not a lot, and of course they could have been built elsewhere. Tom F. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3A7.1637CD40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Poznan is in Poland. Interesting.
 
When I was in Bosnia a couple of years ago, Vanagons were everywhere. Tons of them, clearly the predominent light truck and van.
 
I asked, and it turned out VW had a Vanagon plant there too, before the civil war. I saw a few Syncros , but not a lot, and of course they could have been built elsewhere.
 
Tom F. 
------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3A7.1637CD40-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:40:29 -0700 Reply-To: Mike Radtke Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mike Radtke Subject: Re: Reinforced Tires - was Yokohama Tires Revisited MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 40 psi ... My owner's manual specifies either light truck tires or reinforced. It specifies 40 psi rear for the reinforced. It came with Michelin LT's. I have around 20K miles on a set of Continental CR21 reinforced and find them equal to or better than Michelin XZX reinforced (which are no longer made). I find the ride of the reinforced tires to be quieter and smoother than that of LT's. I found both Michelin and Bridgestone LT's to skid easily on wet roads. Neither the Michelin reinforced or the Continental reinforced have that problem. But, I have a GL, not a Westy. Mike Phoenix, AZ '84GL '58 Isetta '79 Jet ElectraVan ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:57:00 +0000 Reply-To: dmc@CYBURBAN.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave M Subject: t-i-r-e-s Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit Content-type: text/plain Mime-version: 1.0 >ANY tire designed for a really heavy car would be suitable loadingwise for >a Vanagon. Mercedes S-Class (which these days run low-profiles) or even an >old Galaxie landbarge. You don't need ill-handling truck tires. > Hardly. There is the small matter of size to consider. All the vehicles you mention take 15in tires, hardly suitable for a vehicle that needs 14in tires. That said, I agree there are several 14in passenger tires that will handle the weight of a standard Vanagon (NOT a Westy). I use Cooper Lifeliner 215/70/14. The 215 width gives a better load rating than the recommended 205 width. The Response 2000 tire currently being sold by Sears is a good tire in this size. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:29:44 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Sullivan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Sullivan Subject: Re: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3AE.162C7E70" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3AE.162C7E70 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dear Chris, I'll be sure to let you know how fast my chipped, TDI-powered, Syncro Westy can go up that same hill!!! ;) MJS -----Original Message----- From: CHRIS STANN [mailto:cstann3@HOME.COM] Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 7:30 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays... Went running this morning. Interesting thing happened. On my final mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a hill. I gave it all I had. Sweat beaded up on my forehead, my breath became chronically short and I panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still managed to pass that Diesel Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could with the go pedal resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the transmission in first gear. IT'S FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3AE.162C7E70 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Dear Chris,
 
I'll be sure to let you know how fast my chipped, TDI-powered, Syncro Westy can go up that same hill!!! ;)
 
MJS
 
-----Original Message-----
From: CHRIS STANN [mailto:cstann3@HOME.COM]
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 7:30 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays...

Went running this morning.  Interesting thing happened.  On my final mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a hill.  I gave it all I had.  Sweat beaded up on my forehead,  my breath became chronically short and I panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still managed to pass that Diesel Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could with the go pedal resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the transmission in first gear.
 
IT'S FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B3AE.162C7E70-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:49:48 -0500 Reply-To: Mark McCulley Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark McCulley Subject: Re: AFC Spring Adjustment Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I've seen the topic of AFM spring adjustment discussed on this list for years now and I still don't understand how spring tension can affect the mixture in a closed-loop system. The O2 sensor (in conjunction with the ECU) ultimately determines the mixture based on the amount of O2 in the exhaust, right? So what does changing the AFM spring tension really do? Mark McCulley Seattle WA ----Original Message Follows---- From: Jay L Snyder Reply-To: Jay L Snyder To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: AFC Spring Adjustment Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:23:25 -0500 Last night I'm looking at my old (spare) AFC and trying to figure out how to adjust the spring before opening up the new one this is in my '85 Westy. I want to lean it a few notches. It looks like there is a clip (looks like paper clip size wire) that is screwed down and retaining the large black gear. I want to turn this gear clockwise? If I remove the clip, how does this gear turn? I wasn't able to get the screw loose that holds the clip down. Does the gear lift and turn or what? Is clockwise leaner for sure? I only want to go 3 or 4 notches and try it with my voltemeter on the O2 sensor output. Jay _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:48:29 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays... Comments: To: Chris Stann MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0B36D.A6B41200" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0B36D.A6B41200 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Braggart! ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Chris Stann=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 4:27 AM Subject: [F] Of Diesel Westfalias and Fridays... Went running this morning. Interesting thing happened. On my final = mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a hill. I gave it all I had. Sweat = beaded up on my forehead, my breath became chronically short and I = panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I still managed to pass that Diesel = Westfalia that too, was giving it all it could with the go pedal = resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black smoke and the transmission in = first gear. IT'S = FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0B36D.A6B41200 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Braggart!
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Chris = Stann=20
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 = 4:27=20 AM
Subject: [F] Of Diesel = Westfalias and=20 Fridays...

Went running this morning.  Interesting thing = happened.  On my final mile of my 4-mile run I came upon a = hill.  I=20 gave it all I had.  Sweat beaded up on my forehead,  my = breath=20 became chronically short and I panted like a monkey in heat BUT... I = still=20 managed to pass that Diesel Westfalia that too, was giving it all = it=20 could with the go pedal resolutely floored, exhaust spewing black = smoke=20 and the transmission in first gear.
 
IT'S=20 = FRIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0B36D.A6B41200-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:47:31 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: AFM photos update MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For those interested, I've updated my photos of the inside of the AFM to include a new AFM. Just in case you want to compare what new vs. worn looks like. They also show the 'spring' and adjustment wheel people are asking about. You can find them here: http://rubatoguy.home.mindspring.com/afm.html Todd '88 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:59:55 -0500 Reply-To: Mark McCulley Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark McCulley Subject: purpose of shear bolts Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed The purpose of the shear bolts in the steering column assembly is safety--they allow the column to break away in a frontal collision and not impale the driver. Thus it's not a good idea to use substitute parts here... Mark McCulley _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:06:24 -0500 Reply-To: Mark McCulley Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark McCulley Subject: Re: Aux. Battery Comments: To: vwvan@CORNHUSKER.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Fred, this relay controls +12V power to the fridge. The relay engages when the engine is running and disengages when the engine is off. The relay can be used as an aux battery relay although there are better solutions to this problem (see archives). It's very difficult to find a battery that will fit the space under the drivers seat without modification (other than small wheelchair type batteries). Again, consult the archives--there is plenty of discussion on aux batteries. Mark McCulley ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Reply-To: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Aux. Battery Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:34:42 -0600 Ok folks, I looked for the first time under the drivers seat. There is a relay mounted under there- it is wired to the terminal block right behind the drivers seat. The wires go into the relay and then a pair of fairly heavy wires proceed under the seat. What are these wires? Are they a battery relay and is there room further under the seat for an extra battery? Should I take the swivel seat out and look? Is it simple as removing the two bolts that I see out and removing the seat? I have an 82 Diesel Westy! Thanks in advance!!! Also is there an additional space under the Passengers seat, I have opened the one that looks like the one in back of the drivers seat and there is nothing there. Fred 1982 Vagagon Diesel Westy "Sammy" 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 "The Beast" _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:00:48 -0500 Reply-To: Kevin Davis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Davis Subject: Re: NOW, REMOVE SKIN DISCOLORATIONS, SPOTS, MARKS AND SCARS PERMANENTLY! Comments: To: Marge Maxim In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit will this work on the rockguard? > From: Marge Maxim > Reply-To: Marge Maxim > Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 02:59:38 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: NOW, REMOVE SKIN DISCOLORATIONS, SPOTS, MARKS AND SCARS PERMANENTLY! > > SKIN PROBLEMS? WE CAN SOLVE THEM. > > Hello. We have wonderful news for you. > > If you suffer from any form of skin discolorations, > such as dark marks, acne or pimple marks, scars, > under-eye circles, razor bump marks, spots, freckles, > uneven skin tone, shaving scars, shavers shadow, > stretch-marks, dark areas of skin, age spots, or any other skin > imperfections, you owe it to yourself to learn more about > "SKINCURE". Your skin can become dramatically > even-toned and clear. > > "SKINCURE" was first created in 1975. It has been thoroughly > researched and perfected, has had many case studies conducted > and has been improved many times over the past 25 years. > This truly remarkable cosmetic treatment will eliminate your skin > problems once and for all. > "SKINCURE" IS MADE FOR YOUR SKIN. > It's formula has been found by The U. S. Food and Drug > Administration to be both safe and effective. > SKINCURE is just as effective for males as it is for females, > and is completely safe and gentle to sensitive skin. > Our skin treatments are for all races, shades and ages of skin. > > If you wish to receive free additional information about "Skincure", > or If you have any questions, please email us by clicking the > reply button and writing us. We will answer you quickly. > > ALSO...if you suffer from acne or pimples, skin bumps, blackheads or > whiteheads, > email us for information about a remarkable acne and pimple remover. > ...If you suffer from stretch-marks, please let us know also. We have > a stretch mark treatment made for this skin condition. Just click reply and > write us. > ...Do you have psoriasis, eczema, rosacea or dermatitis? We can help. > > We are an international company. You can be assured of fast, reliable > delivery. Our elaborate shipping facilities and expert staff assure > you of the highest quality service, whether you are here in the USA, > or anywhere in the world. > Respectfully and Sincerely, Mrs. Christine Yang, > Mrs. Brenda Boykin and Mr. John Shigira > > P. S. It is never our intention to offend or annoy or disrespect > anyone. If you do not appreciate receiving this message, > please let us know by simply clicking REPLY and typing > the word "REMOVE" IN THE SUBJECT LINE. (Not The Body) > You will then be promptly and permanently removed from our list. > We humbly apologize if you are in any way offended by receiving this > email. > > "SKIN IS OUR BUSINESS...OUR ONLY BUSINESS". > > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:09:50 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: halfway thru heater motor replacement - need advice! Comments: To: sg In-Reply-To: <004601c0b365$dba11650$0300a8c0@sunhome> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Don't Yank!! If you have a box with clips, there are eleven of them; if welds I forget how many, but some are indeed at the back. Also there are two screws in the top, fore and aft of the blower bulge. I don't think it's practical to open the box without unmounting it first (four 6mm screws, #3 Phillips). OTOH, at least with the clip version, you can split the box and leave the core plumbed up -- this of course means final re-assembly will be in the van. david At 01:52 AM 3/23/2001, sg wrote: >hi list, >i know there has been lots o' talk about heater fan motor replacement >recently, but im halfway thru the job and i need some advice. ive gotten >the dash off (jeepers, this was a pain in the ass), and ive done various >electrical trouble shooting on the motor such as testing power/gnd to make >sure it wasnt a simple fix (which it wasnt ;( ). now i need to get at the >blower moter, and ive cracked the seals on the heater assembly, but there >appear to be some seals and/or retaining clips all the way in the back of >the assembly, ie in the space between the assembly and the sheet metal the >dash bolts down onto, totally unaccessable by human hands. anybody dealt >with getting this assembly apart in order to get at the blower motor? did >you run into this problem? what did you do? the only thing i can think >of is to give it a good yank, and hope for the best .... >-steve and buster David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:30:05 -0500 Reply-To: Kevin Davis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Davis Subject: Re: Your favorite tool for removing old seam sealer In-Reply-To: <001901c0b22a$fc7e9aa0$947c1a41@kc.rr.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit haven't used this tool for this application, but - the Fein MultiMaster is an extremely precise random orbital sander, scraper, cutter. Of course, precision is ultimately the responsibility of the hand holding the tool. This thing orbits at 22,500 opm. It is perfect for narrow openings as the cutting blades are less than about 1/16" wide. It is a serious, heavy-duty tool - and not inexpensive. but it is probably alot less expensive than a whole lot of professionally bought body work. For those not familiar with a random orbit cutter - think back to the saw the orthopedist used to cut the plaster cast off your last broken body part. i have used this tool for months now in the housing renovation business - inmo it would be a great tool for this auto seam application. i have used it for cutting very narrow tile grout w/o damaging the surrounding tile. Kevin > From: Dave Baker > Reply-To: Dave Baker > Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:18:45 -0600 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Your favorite tool for removing old seam sealer > > I have seen several mentions of the use of a dremel on this list. I looked > at one at Wal-Mart the other day. It looks to me like a "hobby" tool for > doing light grinding/polishing on small artifacts. Do you really use this > for body work? I would think some sort of grinder would be more > appropriate. > > I'd be interested in your comments and experiences in this matter. > > Thanx. > > Dave in KC > 85 Westy > http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: phil stanhope > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 9:54 AM > Subject: Your favorite tool for removing old seam sealer > > >> I used a dremel on my first vanagon. Becouse of my >> heavy trigger finger it turned the gaps/seams into >> canyons.(now filled w/ Bondo+sealer)Yuck! >> Sandblasting sucks. >> >> The only thing i found that works was this sickle >> shaped knife. >> >> What you use? >> >> Terry-I know i already asked! >> (i dont remember the anwser, Daaahh!) >> >> >> >> __________________________________________________ >> Do You Yahoo!? >> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. >> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:38:10 -0500 Reply-To: 72510.1173@COMPUSERVE.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Helen Fahy <72510.1173@COMPUSERVE.COM> Subject: Re: AFM photos update MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for taking the time to display this. BTW, what is the best way to remove the outer black plastic cover? Thanks, Joe Fahy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Last" To: Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 10:47 AM Subject: AFM photos update > > For those interested, I've updated my photos of the inside of the AFM to > include a new AFM. > Just in case you want to compare what new vs. worn looks like. > > They also show the 'spring' and adjustment wheel people are asking > about. > > You can find them here: http://rubatoguy.home.mindspring.com/afm.html > > > Todd > '88 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:55:54 -0500 Reply-To: Kevin Davis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Davis Subject: seven step program recommendations? In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20010307123035.0540fc40@pop.rcn.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit hello my name is Kevin and I just bought a vanagon... i just returned from colorado to maine with a new-to-me '90 syncro westy with a G60 under the bonnet. i now fear for my sanity and my wallet. when i recover i'll post some of the trip details. i'll also try getting some pictures together. there are some pretty interesting things going on back there. Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:53:26 -0330 Reply-To: Karl Dawe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Dawe Subject: Re: seven step program recommendations? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please, it this program exists, send me an address... I recently bought an '84 Vanagon, in (mostly) great shape and only 34,897km on the wasserboxer. Everything was perfect... until the fire (damn gas heater...). Since then I've redone a bunch of stuff, and I'm broke. Seven to Twelve steps about now would be perfect... Karl -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of Kevin Davis Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 1:26 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: seven step program recommendations? hello my name is Kevin and I just bought a vanagon... i just returned from colorado to maine with a new-to-me '90 syncro westy with a G60 under the bonnet. i now fear for my sanity and my wallet. when i recover i'll post some of the trip details. i'll also try getting some pictures together. there are some pretty interesting things going on back there. Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:27:13 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: NOW, REMOVE SKIN DISCOLORATIONS, SPOTS, MARKS AND SCARS PERMANENTLY! Comments: To: kdavis@qsilver.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_a.a9ebc82.27ece171_boundary" --part1_a.a9ebc82.27ece171_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 11:00:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, kdavis@QSILVER.NET writes: > will this work on the rockguard? > > > From: Marge Maxim > > Reply-To: Marge Maxim > > Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 02:59:38 PM > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: NOW, REMOVE SKIN DISCOLORATIONS, SPOTS, MARKS AND SCARS > PERMANENTLY! > > > > SKIN PROBLEMS? WE CAN SOLVE THEM. > i think it will work for road rash, cinder chips etc.. ive tried it on the front of my vanagon- good stuff. chris --part1_a.a9ebc82.27ece171_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 11:00:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kdavis@QSILVER.NET writes:


will this work on the rockguard?

> From: Marge Maxim <marmax25@MAIL.COM>
> Reply-To: Marge Maxim <marmax25@MAIL.COM>
> Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 02:59:38 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: NOW, REMOVE SKIN DISCOLORATIONS, SPOTS, MARKS AND SCARS
PERMANENTLY!
>
> SKIN PROBLEMS?  WE CAN SOLVE THEM.


i think it will work for road rash, cinder chips etc.. ive tried it on the
front of my vanagon- good stuff.

chris --part1_a.a9ebc82.27ece171_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:33:12 -0600 Reply-To: chad knutson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: chad knutson Subject: Re: t-i-r-e-s Comments: To: dmc@CYBURBAN.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave M wrote: > The Response 2000 tire currently being sold by Sears is a good > tire in this size. I've been told by Sears reps that they sell a Sears-ified version of the Michelin reinforced tire. The Response 2000 could be it. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:36:34 -0800 Reply-To: Donna Stewart Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Donna Stewart Subject: Friday Question - Squarebacks (little Vanagon content) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Any advice/what to look for on a 1971 Squareback? Hopefully I'll be = looking at one over the weekend (probably driving my Vanagon to see it!) = I've always admired these but know little about them. TIA, Donna & Lola-Lola (1987 Wolfsburg) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:57:22 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Friday Question - Squarebacks (little Vanagon content) Comments: To: DStewart@chrm.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_62.cf9b208.27ece882_boundary" --part1_62.cf9b208.27ece882_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 12:40:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, DStewart@CHRM.COM writes: > Any advice/what to look for on a 1971 Squareback? yea... RUST. i wouldnt buy it if it was from the northeast, floors are probably rotted out and lower body full of bondo. ive seen some old bugs and buses with pretty paintjobs but under all that shiny paint is nothing but bondo, rust, chicken wire, poprivited sheetmetal patches, etc.. get underneath the thing, pull the carpets up, look for any "fresh undercoating" (a telltale sign of a quick patch job) bring a magnet with you and run it over the lower body, rocker panels, etc, see how much body filler is in there filling up rust holes.. etc.. rust is an old vw's worst problem. chris (had his share of rusty northeast vw's) --part1_62.cf9b208.27ece882_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 12:40:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
DStewart@CHRM.COM writes:


Any advice/what to look for on a 1971 Squareback?  


yea... RUST.  i wouldnt buy it if it was from the northeast, floors are
probably rotted out and lower body full of bondo.  
ive seen some old bugs and buses with pretty paintjobs but under all that
shiny paint is nothing but bondo, rust, chicken wire, poprivited sheetmetal
patches, etc..   get underneath the thing, pull the carpets up, look for any
"fresh undercoating" (a telltale sign of a quick patch job) bring a magnet
with you and run it over the lower body, rocker panels, etc, see how much
body filler is in there filling up rust holes.. etc..  
rust is an old vw's worst problem.
chris
(had his share of rusty northeast vw's) --part1_62.cf9b208.27ece882_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:06:44 -0500 Reply-To: B P Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: B P Subject: 86 Quantum Wagon FS/T: nearly free i have a quantum wagon which will be going away soon. wanted to offer it to the list; in case there are some needy quantum fans about. it's close to free- just trade me something interesting; or make a nice donation to the list fund. here's the details: 1986 VW Quantum Wagon 150k miles. Runs well. 5cyl. 5spd. PS/PB. Blue with blue cloth interior. Was driven daily and in process of refurbish, but moved back to Vanagon. has new: drums, pads, springs, e-brake cable, rear shocks(Boge) rebuilt Bosch alternator within 2000 miles. needs (of which i am aware): valve cover gasket, lower control arm bushing, exhaust manifold gasket and stud, tires and trailing arm bushing. (and maybe left inner c.v.) Has factory roof rack and rear cargo cover. Everthing works (except A/C). Has some valve noise. The car developed an undetermined front end noise. It's a speed variable noise. Body has some small areas of rust and assorted dents. Great intierior. Car functioned fine before being taken off road when switched back to Vanagon. Car has been sitting since April 99. best for parts; but probably restorable. pictures available on request. trade for vanagon/vw toys, unique vanagon acc., motor-scooter, scooter toys, fezzes -or- a healthy donation to the mailing list. all considered. car sitting in jamaica plain (boston), ma. p-mail for pics, or to arrange a viewing or to haul. regards, bp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:25:07 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: 85 Westy Brakelight Problem MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After fixing my coolant problem the other night, I drove my 85 Westy to a jazz band rehearsal. When I got to the rehearsal site, I noticed I had no brake lights. Came home very carefully afterwards and proceeded to analyze the situation. Here is what I have discovered along with some questions for the whizzes on the list: -- When I remove the left rear tail light assembly, unplug the cables, and put a voltmeter across the brakelight wire (black/red), I notice it reads battery voltage without the brake pedal being depressed. (The PO had put a splice in the wire which I disconnected, so there was no load from the right light on the circuit.) -- When I reconnect the load, the voltage drops to around 2 volts -- not enough to light the bulbs. With the tail lights connected, but hanging by the cable, the brake lights work properly. When I re-install the tail light assembly, the lights stop working. My first hypothesis was that I have a bad brake light switch that offers a high resistance path when open. With no load, there would be no current, hence no voltage drop across the switch, and I would read 12 volts. It's not that simple, however... According to my Haynes manual, the output of the brake light switch connects to a point on the voltage regulator (C1 in the Haynes book). C1 is in turn jumpered to a point labeled E16, which is not identified in the manual. It seems to me that this connection to the regulator could be the source of the 12 volt reading on the tail light switch, but I don't have enough information to confirm this. So, my questions are: 1. Why is this brake light circuit routed through the voltage regulator? 2. Can anyone tell me what/where Haynes point E16 is??? Thanks in advance for your help out there in Vanagon Land! Dave in KC 85 Westy (with no brake lights, but a working cooling system) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:47:25 MST Reply-To: Joe Fortino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Fortino Subject: Re: [Lowering the vanagon] Comments: To: Shawn Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable good question, new coils pre-cut? my wife does'nt want me to lower but I was about -2iches I bet it would ride great! anyone draggin the mud flaps?? hehe Joe Shawn wrote: > --------------------------------------------- > Attachment: = > MIME Type: multipart/alternative > --------------------------------------------- Hello, I own a 1984 vanagon and was looking for some info on lowering the low buck way (cutting the coil springs). I have done this before to other= vehicles with success, but i had the proper info from others that have worked out all the problems they came across while doing these projects. I have no knoledge of the vanagon as far as whats going to happen with camber (+ -). I also need to know how many coils to cut and still keep tension on the spring when the van is jacked up off the gruond. Has anyone done this or is this a project i should just forget about. Thanks Shawn VW addict ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:03:05 -0800 Reply-To: james peters Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: james peters Subject: Friday English? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed The European Commission have just announced an agreement whereby English will be the official language of the EU rather than German, which was the other possibility. As part of the negotiations, Her Majesty's govt. conceded that English spelling had some room for improvement and has accepted a 5 year phase in plan that would be known as"EuroEnglish". In the first year, "s" will replace the soft "c"--sertainly, this will make the sivil servants jump with joy. The hard "c" will be dropped in favor of the "k". This should klear up konfusion and keyboards kan have 1 less letter. There will be growing publik enthusiasm in the sekond year, when the troublesome "ph" will be replaced with the "f". This will make words like "fotograf" 20% shorter. In the 3rd year, publik akseptanse of the new spelling kan be expekted to reach the stage where more komplikated changes are possible. Governments will enkourage the removal of double letters, which have always ben a deterent to akurate speling. Also, al wil agre that the horible mes of the silent "e's" in the language is disgraceful, and they should go away. By the 4th yar, peopl wil be reseptiv to steps such as replasing "th" with "z" and "w" with "v". During ze fifz year, ze unesesary "o" kan be dropd from vords kontaining "ou" and similar changes vud of kors be aplid to ozer kombinations of leters. After zis fifz yer, ve vil hav a reli sensibl riten styl. Zer vil be no mor trubls or difikultis and evrivun vil find it ezi tu understand ech ozer. ZE DREM VIL FINALI KUM TRU!!!!!! _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:19:52 MST Reply-To: Joe Fortino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Fortino Subject: Re: [85 Westy Brakelight Problem] Comments: To: Dave Baker Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dave, had the same issue when driving threw busy L.A, :( I got all the way home safely before buying a manual, long story short it was my connection= on the break-light switch under the steering colum. * Joe Dave Baker wrote: After fixing my coolant problem the other night, I drove my 85 Westy to a= jazz band rehearsal. When I got to the rehearsal site, I noticed I had n= o brake lights. Came home very carefully afterwards and proceeded to analy= ze the situation. Here is what I have discovered along with some questions = for the whizzes on the list: -- When I remove the left rear tail light assembly, unplug the cables, an= d put a voltmeter across the brakelight wire (black/red), I notice it reads= battery voltage without the brake pedal being depressed. (The PO had put= a splice in the wire which I disconnected, so there was no load from the ri= ght light on the circuit.) -- When I reconnect the load, the voltage drops to around 2 volts -- not enough to light the bulbs. With the tail lights connected, but hanging b= y the cable, the brake lights work properly. When I re-install the tail li= ght assembly, the lights stop working. My first hypothesis was that I have a bad brake light switch that offers = a high resistance path when open. With no load, there would be no current,= hence no voltage drop across the switch, and I would read 12 volts. It's not that simple, however... According to my Haynes manual, the output of the brake light switch conne= cts to a point on the voltage regulator (C1 in the Haynes book). C1 is in t= urn jumpered to a point labeled E16, which is not identified in the manual. It seems to me that this connection to the regulator could be the source = of the 12 volt reading on the tail light switch, but I don't have enough information to confirm this. So, my questions are: 1. Why is this brake light circuit routed through the voltage regulator?= 2. Can anyone tell me what/where Haynes point E16 is??? Thanks in advance for your help out there in Vanagon Land! Dave in KC 85 Westy (with no brake lights, but a working cooling system) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 VW addict ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:37:38 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: 85 Westy Brakelight Problem Comments: To: Dave Baker In-Reply-To: <001301c0b3ce$f886e9c0$947c1a41@kc.rr.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:25 PM 3/23/2001, Dave Baker wrote: >According to my Haynes manual, the output of the brake light switch connects >to a point on the voltage regulator (C1 in the Haynes book). C1 is in turn >jumpered to a point labeled E16, which is not identified in the manual. ATB (according to Bentley) the '85 has two brake light switches, one for each hydraulic circuit and outputs in parallel. Circuit goes: Fuse S8, 1mm r/y to brake switches. From switches, 1 mm r/bk to terminal T4a (probably a 4-position connector behind dash), then bk/r to pin three of T7 in connector box. Thence bk/r to left light and from there to right light. Each light is grounded to its respective taillight ground, and both taillight grounds go to ground point 19, near the ignition coil. Suggest you unplug brake light switches, jumper and measure as indicated. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:20:03 -0500 Reply-To: beekj@GHG.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joachim Beek Subject: Re: Friday English? Aha! A spelling error! > In the first year, "s" will replace the soft > "c"--sertainly, this will make the sivil servants jump with joy. > > In the 3rd year, publik akseptanse of the new spelling kan be expekted to > reach the stage where more komplikated changes are possible. Governments > will enkourage the removal of double letters, which have always ben a > deterent to akurate speling. Also, al wil agre that the horible mes of the > silent "e's" in the language is disgraceful, and they should go away. Disgraceful? Zat shud be "disgrasful"! Jawohl. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:32:34 -0500 Reply-To: Brian Honan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Honan Subject: High temp after coolant flush ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi Volks, Getting closer to the road I can feel it ! I have some bugs with my coolant flush. This was my first attempt at the coolant flush. I went with the Orange stuff and flushed all the green stuff out. Did the bleeding but, because the van needed a jump every time it staled (P.I.T.A) I was the one on the pedal and the friend was running around the van so we may have missed a step. After it was all filled The Temp would not even out and continued to rise. There was actually steam coming from the radiator ! New thermostat, temp sensor and the pumps only year n a half old. I am going to read more from the archives and print post this time and give it another shoot. The QUESTION ??? Is the temp up because of air in the system. Thanks for all the help so far. Have a great weekend . Brian 87 GL _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:02:42 -0800 Reply-To: dawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dawn Subject: boiling the radiator out? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit can you safely boil the radiator out while you have it out of the vanagon? ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:07:31 -0800 Reply-To: Derek Darling Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Derek Darling Subject: Purpose of Sh4ear Bolts, or Nuts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The purpose of these shear-NUTS is to guarantee a certain torque to hold the column on. The head of the bolt literally "shears off" when you tighten it, leaving that god-forsaken piece of crap bolt to take off when you try to change the column. I personally like the 5-lb peen hammer and a 9" cold chisel to spin the #$%^&*'ing thing off! I say this because the '84 I got from a friend was in a front-end collision, and the column did NOT shear off. Just looking at the column makes me wonder HOW it would shear off in the event of an accident. Derekd <>< ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:26:26 -0500 Reply-To: pjlander@OZEMAIL.COM.AU Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: pjlander@OZEMAIL.COM.AU Subject: Re: [caravelleausnz] Caravelle GL? Comments: To: caravelleausnz@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------41EE7A695900" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------41EE7A695900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Carats in Australia were made by Trakka and as far as I know there were none imported. ============================================================ From: cwmundy@optusnet.com.au Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 09:26:47 +1100 To: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com CC: caravelleausnz@yahoogroups.com Subject: [caravelleausnz] Caravelle GL? This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au --------------41EE7A695900 Content-Type: text/html; name="replyAll" Content-Disposition: inline; filename="replyAll" Hi Steve O,

I have a Caravelle GL. I have seen a couple in the ACT and NSW in my travels recently.

My GL has the following

7 seater configuration
Upholstery through the whole van
Carpet all the way through

The Previous owner had the Central Air-conditioning (Runs along the ceiling) put in it as well. Back in 1991 he paid around approx $3000 to have it installed. Lucky us. It's one of the best AC Units I've had in a vehicle.

The Caravelle GL I think was close to top of line release here in Australia due to the tax on continental cars at the time. I think there may have been some Carat's as I have seen some in Sydney some years ago.

The Caravelle GL is void of useful things like electric mirrors, power windows, A/C and cruise control. I may stand corrected on this.

I've seen another GL here in Canberra that has black bumpers (mine's got chrome) and looks very "transporterish" inside.

When we catch up I'll even let you have a sit in it!!!!

On another subject are you going to the VW Show on April the 14th at Fairfield Showgrounds?? I'll ask this question on our Australian List.

Chris

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Christopher W. Mundy
89 Caravelle GL
Canberra, Australia
Ph: 61 262419343 AEST
Wk: 61 262416749 AEST
E-Mail: cwmundy@optusnet.com.au
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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--------------41EE7A695900 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:24:12 -0700 Reply-To: john Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: john Subject: FS/Trade - Alt, ECU, Seat MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Howdy, and happy Friday ! I'm nearly finished Sue-Bi-Rooing my 87 Syncro. It runs well. The following are offered here for sale or trade. ECU - $150 Alternator - recently rebuilt - $75 + shipping. Seat - $250 + shipping- single captains' chair on rails. sits in the area infront of the sliding door. pictures of it can be found at http://webs.purplemountain.net/jclark I'd be interesting in trading for a jump seat, insturment cluster with tach and 15 inch rims. Reasonable offers considered too. Thanks and have a great weekend ! John ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:11:40 -0500 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: Re: Bus Transport by Train? Comments: To: Jshopper1@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0B3C4.B5290460" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0B3C4.B5290460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have seen billboards in the Midwest for this over the years......it = seems like it is a "piggyback" type situation..... Ask a large rail line wherever you live, and keep asking. The = railroad( flame suit on) for the most part is in no hurry to do anything = for anyone. So if this is the type of thing you are looking to do = quickly, forget it. Stuff sits in the rail for weeks without = moving...... Adam Puzerewski 81 westy 74 beetle Vanagon Partsmobiles ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Dennis Lockwood=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 9:46 PM Subject: Re: [VANAGON] Bus Transport by Train? Brian,=20 The only Amtrak train that offers the ability for one to ship one's = car while=20 riding in Amtrak comfort (oxymoron) is the Auto Train. It runs from = suburban=20 Washington, DC to the Orlando Florida area. Not quite the destination = of=20 your choice. I do not know of anyone shipping a private auto by rail = (the=20 big 3 auto manufacturers ship new cars by rail daily). I do not = believe that=20 the private railroads want the business that you are seeking. The = major rail=20 carriers would be glad to ship multiple car loads of a commodity for = you=20 though. Sorry, but this is the nature of private enterprise in the = 21st=20 century. But don't let me discourage you. Keep looking, good luck = and enjoy=20 your trip.=20 Dennis Lockwood=20 91 Carat=20 Original Owner=20 and=20 President,=20 Greenville (SC) Chapter=20 National Railway Historical Society=20 ------=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0B3C4.B5290460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have seen billboards in the Midwest for this over the = years......it seems=20 like it is a "piggyback"  type situation.....
 
Ask a large rail line wherever you live, and keep = asking.   The=20 railroad( flame suit on) for the most part is in no hurry to do anything = for=20 anyone.  So if this is the type of thing you are looking to do = quickly,=20 forget it.   Stuff sits in the rail for weeks without=20 moving......
 
 
Adam Puzerewski
81 westy
74 beetle
 
Vanagon Partsmobiles
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Dennis = Lockwood=20
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 = 9:46=20 PM
Subject: Re: [VANAGON] Bus = Transport by=20 Train?

Brian, =

The only=20 Amtrak train that offers the ability for one to ship one's car while=20
riding in Amtrak comfort (oxymoron) is the Auto Train.  It = runs from=20 suburban
Washington, DC to the Orlando Florida area.  Not = quite the=20 destination of
your choice.  I do not know of anyone shipping = a=20 private auto by rail (the
big 3 auto manufacturers ship new cars = by rail=20 daily).  I do not believe that
the private railroads want the = business that you are seeking.  The major rail
carriers would = be glad=20 to ship multiple car loads of a commodity for you
though. =  Sorry, but=20 this is the nature of private enterprise in the 21st
century. =  But=20 don't let me discourage you.  Keep looking, good luck and enjoy =
your=20 trip.


Dennis Lockwood
91 Carat
Original Owner =

and=20

President,
Greenville (SC) Chapter
National Railway = Historical=20 Society ------=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0B3C4.B5290460-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:13:19 -0500 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: List admin: RE spam List admin, I am on 5 vw lists, and this is the only one with Spam. There has to be a filter for it, or I would be getting it from everywhere. Adam Puzerewski 81 westy 74 beetle Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:20:46 -0800 Reply-To: John Dagastino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Dagastino Subject: [friday OT] Vanagon sighting on the simpsons MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii so i'm sittting in front of the TV, vegetating... and i notice that near the simpson family auto, there is a rather large, short nosed vehicle that looks..eh...sort of familiar.. also..later in the show,..i saw a beetle in a shot of the mall parking lot so are there some VW Zealots working on the simpsons or what? (not a bad thing, mind you) ===== "Puritanism: The haunting fear that someone, somewhere, may be happy. " - H. L. Mencken "Insisting on perfect safety is for people who don't have the balls to live in the real world." -Mary Shafer, NASA Ames Dryden More Quotation fun @ http://nerddom.8m.com/quotes.html __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:29:22 -0800 Reply-To: Tom Young Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom Young Subject: Rear Tailgate Lock Question Comments: To: type2@type2.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all: Although my van has been hit in the back hard enough to slightly dent and push in the tail gate, the lock has continued to work OK. That is, it did until the other day when it absolutely refused to unlock! After trying everything (lube in lock, using all the copies of that particular key, etc.) I finally broke down and removed the interior panel so I could get at the latch mechanism itself and get the door open. (As an aside, I'd never looked at this lock before and I'll describe the mechanism for anyone that's curious. The key cylinder itself has a "tail" that's about an inch or so long. When the lock is in the "unlocked" position the tail is in the position to actuate the spring-loaded latch mechanism itself. That is, when you push in the chrome button on the outside the tail pushes the latch, releasing the door. When the lock is in the "locked" position the tail is positioned *above* the latch mechanism, so pressing the outside chrome button causes the tail to "miss" the latch, and you can't open the door.) Anyway, after opening the door I tried to unlock the lock... and it unlocked just fine! Tried several times locking and unlocking, closing the door, opening the door, etc., etc., and everything seems to be copasetic. Before I order a new set of clips for the hatch panel (I ended up having to bust them off since I couldn't seem to get them to "unpop" from the door without risking tearing up the panel itself) does anybody have any insight as to what might have gone wrong here? I'd hate to have to go through this whole exercise again. TIA. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Tom Young tomyoung1@home.com Lafayette, CA 94549 '81 Vanagon ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:41:52 -0800 Reply-To: Jere Hawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jere Hawn Subject: Rear Bearing Help and bulb MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, Today's project was going to be the left rear bearings, both inner and outer. They have been making quite a ruckus for the past few weeks. I have started the project and have encountered a problem... how much do i need to take off and the sequence? Bentley isn't very clear on this, He does have a nice picture of a clean bearing housing. 1. Do i have to drop the CV joint? 2. Removing the bearing hub... do i leave all the rear break hardware attached? 3. does any have the line on drop light bulbs. I seem to be going through them like paper towels at the annual county bearing packing contest, just a simple nudge when it is hot and it goes out. Any ideas on this? TIA Jere 90 GL 88 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:26:55 -0500 Reply-To: George Gaudette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: George Gaudette Organization: Boston University Subject: Grease Van MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0249_01C0B3C6.D6D391A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0249_01C0B3C6.D6D391A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all, The vegetable-oil powered Vanagon (or should I say Burger King fryalator = grease-burning Vanagon) known "Grease Car" is back in the news this = week, this time featured in the weekly rag "The Boston Phoenix." I see = an old listserv thread on this topic at: = http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=3Dind0001D&L=3Dvanagon&D=3D0&P= =3D21768 Here's the Phoenix article: = http://www.worcesterphoenix.com/archive/features/01/03/22/GREASE_CAR.html= And the Grease Car site: http://www.greasecar.com/ Enjoy, but please don't think I'm recommending this conversion for you, = personally. On the related topic of Vanagon environmentalism, my own beloved Vanagon = broke down yesterday when a funny metal cap on the end of a thingamadoo = (you know the one) blew out during rush hour. As I tried to turn over = the motor in hopes that it would catch, torrential rain beating a = chaotic drumroll on my pop-top, I was unwittingly pumping quarts of = gasoline into the storm runoff. Arrgg. I ditched it at a metered spot, = jumped on the subway, and got it towed after work. Somehow, no parking = ticket...unless it's floating down the Charles right now. Back to the Bentley, George, in Boston ------=_NextPart_000_0249_01C0B3C6.D6D391A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello all,
 
The vegetable-oil powered Vanagon (or = should I say=20 Burger King fryalator grease-burning Vanagon) known "Grease = Car" is=20 back in the news this week, this time featured in the weekly rag = "The=20 Boston Phoenix." I see an old listserv thread on this topic = at:
    http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=3D= ind0001D&L=3Dvanagon&D=3D0&P=3D21768
Here's the Phoenix = article:
 
    http://www.worcesterphoenix.com/archive/features/01/03/22/GREAS= E_CAR.html
 
And the Grease Car site:
 
    http://www.greasecar.com/
 
Enjoy, but please don't think I'm = recommending this=20 conversion for you, personally.
 
On the related topic of Vanagon=20 environmentalism, my own beloved Vanagon broke down yesterday when = a funny=20 metal cap on the end of a thingamadoo (you know the one) blew out during = rush=20 hour. As I tried to turn over the motor in hopes that it would = catch,=20 torrential rain beating a chaotic drumroll on my pop-top, I was=20 unwittingly pumping quarts of gasoline into the storm=20 runoff. Arrgg. I ditched it at a metered spot, jumped on the = subway, and=20 got it towed after work. Somehow, no parking ticket...unless it's = floating down=20 the Charles right now.
 
Back to the Bentley,
 
George, in = Boston
------=_NextPart_000_0249_01C0B3C6.D6D391A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:51:39 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: Deep Cycle batteries MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit this was posted on another mailing list of mine. i thought lots of folks on this list might find it useful. :) http://www.ee.ualberta.ca/~schmaus/dcbat.html ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:06:14 +1100 Reply-To: P&J Lander Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: P&J Lander Subject: Re: [Syncro] Where is Poznan? Comments: To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com, Double-Cab Guy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0B452.711CBA80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0B452.711CBA80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Double-Cab Guy=20 To: Vanagon ; Syncro@yahoogroups.com=20 Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 3:39 PM Subject: [Syncro] Where is Poznan? Hi Volks, I recently received a letter from VW A.G. with the build date and = location of my newest Double-Cab. The letter states that the model is "247GC5" . I know 247 is a Double-Cab but what is this "CG5" on the end? GC5 is the option code (yours has a MV engine) The letter goes on to state that the vehicle was built on the 28th of = November 1985 in Poznan. Poznan is the factory in Poland used after 1995 and signified by an X = in the VIN. I think that there is an error here. Your van's VIN should be = WV2***25*GG******. WV2=3DVW commercial 25=3DType25 (Vanagon) G=3D1986 Model (built after August 1985) G=3DGratz factory in Austria Let me know if I am wrong. Phill Lander http://www.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/volkswagen_syncro.htm Also for those of you that are interested the e-mail address for the = VW corporate archives section is=20 mailto:unternehmenserchiv@volkswagen.de Thanks Glen Cook ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0B452.711CBA80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Double-Cab Guy
To: Vanagon ; Syncro@yahoogroups.com =
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 = 3:39=20 PM
Subject: [Syncro] Where is = Poznan?

Hi Volks,
 
I recently received a letter from VW A.G. with = the build=20 date and location of my newest Double-Cab.
The letter states that the model is "247GC5"=20 .
I know 247 is a Double-Cab but what = is this=20 "CG5" on the end?
 
GC5 is the option code (yours has a MV=20 engine)
 
The letter goes on to state that the vehicle = was built=20 on the 28th of November 1985 in Poznan.
 
Poznan is the factory in Poland used after = 1995 and=20 signified by an X in the VIN.
I think that there is an error here. Your = van's VIN=20 should be WV2***25*GG******.
WV2=3DVW commercial
25=3DType25 (Vanagon)
G=3D1986 Model (built after August = 1985)
G=3DGratz factory in Austria
 
Let me know if I am wrong.
 
Phill Lander
 
http:/= /www.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/volkswagen_syncro.htm
 

Also for those = of you that=20 are interested the e-mail address for the VW corporate archives = section is=20
mailto:unternehmenserchi= v@volkswagen.de
 
Thanks
Glen = Cook
------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0B452.711CBA80-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:35:51 -0800 Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stuart MacMillan Subject: I need a propane tank! Will pay top $$$ MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anyone got one they want to sell? My fill level valve is kaput and NLA. Any tank from a VW camper conversion will do. I'll pay a reasonable price and shipping. Camping season is coming soon! Thanks! Stuart MacMillan Seattle '84 Westy, needs a propane tank ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 20:39:45 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: I need a propane tank! Will pay top $$$ Comments: To: macmillan@home.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b4.131e9040.27ed54e1_boundary" --part1_b4.131e9040.27ed54e1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 8:37:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, macmillan@HOME.COM writes: > Anyone got one they want to sell? My fill level valve is kaput and > NLA. Any tank from a VW camper conversion will do. > > you can still get these valves....did you try your local rv store or LP appliance store? i got one of these for my 78 westy. chris --part1_b4.131e9040.27ed54e1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/01 8:37:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
macmillan@HOME.COM writes:


Anyone got one they want to sell?  My fill level valve is kaput and
NLA.  Any tank from a VW camper conversion will do.



you can still get these valves....did you try your local rv store or LP
appliance store?  
i got one of these for my 78 westy.
chris --part1_b4.131e9040.27ed54e1_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:52:28 -0800 Reply-To: timnew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: timnew Subject: OXS light Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit My OXS light just came on, what are the possible causes for this? It seems to be running fine. The manual says it comes on to indicate a scheduled service. I don't think that's it because my odometer hasn't worked for a few thousand miles. Tim New 86 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:52:29 -0800 Reply-To: phil stanhope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: phil stanhope Subject: Re: Lowering the vanagon In-Reply-To: <001001c0b3a1$97659f60$3cb20b41@mntgmy1.al.home.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii IT SURE IS alot more dangerous if you lower a vanagon IMO. I want to keep that bumper as high as i can so I get maximum impact protection in case a soccer-mom in a giant SUV crashes into me head-on. Lower that bumper and her mud tires will be in your lap. Got to admit a lower vanagon looks better but so does a little MG midget, and you wont catch me daily driving one in my town! Phil 84'Westy --- CHRIS STANN wrote: > snip > > >Riding a kangarooing Vanagon might be fun, but it's > also dangerous. > > It's a lot more fun if your SO is sitting in your > lap while 'kangarooing.' > A lot more dangerous, but A LOT MORE FUN! > > he he he > > Chris. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 20:53:06 EST Reply-To: SPENCERVW@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Spencer Allen Subject: can 85 westy pull boat? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Do any of you tow a fishing boat with a stock 1.9? I want to buy a 14ft boat to pull with my Westy. If you do whats it like as far as handling, stopping and esp backing the trailer in and out of the launch. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Spencer ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:10:11 -0800 Reply-To: "robot ." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "robot ." Subject: Re: OXS light Comments: To: timnew@PACBELL.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Box for the OXS switch is down below. It was still working while your odometer was fluffing off. You need to reset the switch, right near the radiator and replace the oxs sensor if it hasn't been done in awhile. tim o'brien >My OXS light just came on, what are the possible causes for this? It seems >to be running fine. The manual says it comes on to indicate a scheduled >service. I don't think that's it because my odometer hasn't worked for a >few thousand miles. > >Tim New >86 GL > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 20:26:41 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: OXS light Comments: To: timnew MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The drive cable for the speedo comes off the left front wheel. It goes to a black box just above the spare tire under the front of the van. The counter in the box connects to the OX2 light. When the black box counts to 60,000 (as I recall) the red OX2 light is turned on. That is all it does....just turns the light on. This is a simple reminder to change the oxygen sensor at the catalytic converter. That is absolutely all that light does.....reminds. The second or upper part of your speedo cable comes out of the box and goes through the front wall up to the back of the speedometer. To reset the Oxygen light, feel on the top of the black box for a detent button. Depress it and voila! The oxygen light should go out and you are good to go for another 60,000 miles. But don't forget to service the Oxygen sensor. Happy detent depressing~~~ -{;<)> John Rodgers 88 GL Driver > > My OXS light just came on, what are the possible causes for this? It seems > to be running fine. The manual says it comes on to indicate a scheduled > service. I don't think that's it because my odometer hasn't worked for a > few thousand miles. > > Tim New > 86 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:32:38 -0800 Reply-To: timnew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: timnew Subject: Re: OXS light In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit How important is it to change your OXS sensor? on 3/23/01 5:52 PM, timnew at timnew@PACBELL.NET wrote: > My OXS light just came on, what are the possible causes for this? It seems > to be running fine. The manual says it comes on to indicate a scheduled > service. I don't think that's it because my odometer hasn't worked for a > few thousand miles. > > Tim New > 86 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 20:58:09 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: questions of lifting saggy butt Vanagons,and coil spring spacers Comments: To: SBWC919@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Brian McClure 's message of Fri, 23 Mar 2001 08:00:38 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Brian, Break down and pop for some air bags. Variable height at will, good ride, good handling, easy installation. What more could you ask for? Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 20:47:11 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: boiling the radiator out? Comments: To: dmoroughan@ATOMIC.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I took the radiators from our 85 and 86 to be "blasted " out. If memory serves me it consisted of a heat, pressure and sonic waves. Not many places can do this though, call around. About $25. Ken Lewis http://neksiwel.20m.com On Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:02:42 -0800 dawn writes: > can you safely boil the radiator out while you have it out of > the > vanagon? > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:03:43 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: purpose of shear bolts Comments: To: Mark McCulley In-Reply-To: Mark McCulley 's message of Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:59:55 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Mark, If those bolts shear in a frontal impact, I have big news for you----You'll be eating wheel and column. No way around it. I'm not buying this theory. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 22:12:33 -0500 Reply-To: Rod Smith Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rod Smith Subject: Re: questions of lifting saggy butt Vanagons,and coil spring spacers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anyone know a good source for airbags? Thanks; Rod. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Kay" To: Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 9:58 PM Subject: Re: questions of lifting saggy butt Vanagons,and coil spring spacers > Brian, > Break down and pop for some air bags. > Variable height at will, good ride, good handling, easy installation. > What more could you ask for? > > Later, > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | > ||-(())----(())-| > > Terry 85 GL > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 19:21:48 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: can 85 westy pull boat? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Even if your Westy has enough power to tow the boat for some time it will likely result in shorter life for the engine and longer stopping distances. Most vans the size of Vanagon now days are powered by much more reliable and powerful V6 engines. Then there could be big diffrence in weight of 14ft boats.. Leon 85 Subwagen Westy Spencer Allen wrote: > Do any of you tow a fishing boat with a stock 1.9? I want to buy a 14ft boat > to pull with my Westy. If you do whats it like as far as handling, stopping > and esp backing the trailer in and out of the launch. Any info would be > appreciated. > Thanks > Spencer ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:23:17 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: questions of lifting saggy butt Vanagons,and coil spring spacers Comments: To: Rod Smith In-Reply-To: Rod Smith 's message of Fri, 23 Mar 2001 22:12:33 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Rod, Any local FLAPS will order them for you. I think mine cost $75.00 with tax. Air Lift Part # 60789 Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 19:26:57 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: I need a propane tank! Will pay top $$$ MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The valve on my Westy is made by Marshall Brass, 260-00 series one piece two stage regulator. Tank was made by Manchester Tank Co. Hope it helps 85 Subwagen Westy Stuart MacMillan wrote: > Anyone got one they want to sell? My fill level valve is kaput and > NLA. Any tank from a VW camper conversion will do. > > I'll pay a reasonable price and shipping. Camping season is coming > soon! > > Thanks! > > Stuart MacMillan > Seattle > > '84 Westy, needs a propane tank ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:23:26 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: OXS light Comments: To: timnew In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 08:52 PM 3/23/2001, timnew wrote: >My OXS light just came on, what are the possible causes for this? There is only one cause -- the elapsed-mileage switch (located in a box under the left-front wheel, inserted in-line in the speedometer cable) has turned it on. You can turn it off again by locating the box, finding the shrouded button and pressing it until it clicks. Sometimes it takes more than one press to turn the light off. The light will then stay off for another 30,000 or 60,000 miles, depending on the switch-box. I think in '86 they went to 60,000 miles. If you want to change out the O2 sensor, feel free -- that's what the light is reminding you to do. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 22:25:37 -0600 Reply-To: Anthony Kimmons Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Anthony Kimmons Subject: Torque for Head Cap Bolts? (87 GL) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey there folks... I'm putting new heads on my 87 GL. (Thanks to Bob Donalds / Boston Engine...an excellent, helpful dude, I must say!) I know that there was a recall to re-torque the head cap bolts at one time. Is the Bentley torque of 50 (metric) right on this or should it be tighter? Thanks in advance. Tony ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:28:48 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: I need a propane tank! Will pay top $$$ Comments: To: Stuart MacMillan In-Reply-To: <3ABBF9F7.4E1E402B@home.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 08:35 PM 3/23/2001, Stuart MacMillan wrote: >Anyone got one they want to sell? My fill level valve is kaput and >NLA. Any tank from a VW camper conversion will do. Stuart, if you want to keep it stock, I have a NOS valve for sale -- you can see it on my website. Otherwise, go to your friendly LP place and get (or have them install) a 1 3/4" Acme fill valve, just like every other RV on the road, and a manual bleed valve, ditto. Should be under $50 for both. While you're messing about, if you still have the square model 260 regulator, it's very likely getting ready to start leaking -- they don't make it any more; the replacement is the Marshall Brass model 290 (about $25) which unfortunately is a couple inches longer; but there's room to bend the tubing going into the van to accommodate the new regulator. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 22:29:33 -0600 Reply-To: Steve Sandlin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Sandlin Subject: Re: Rear Tailgate Lock Question Comments: To: tomyoung1@HOME.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi, Tom, Would the key turn the lock cylinder, or was it stuck? If it would not turn, the problem is in the lock cylinder itself and is probably a bent wafer or broken spring. If the lock turned, It could have been an alignment problem with the tailpiece not being able to align itself with the release on the latch. The latch could have been stuck, also and needing lubrication. If the problem is in the lock cylinder, it is repairable. Steve Sandlin Steve's Lock Shoppe http://www.steveslockshop.com '84 Wolfsburg Westy '79 Transporter '00 New Beetle >From: Tom Young >Reply-To: Tom Young >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Rear Tailgate Lock Question >Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:29:22 -0800 > >Hi all: > >Although my van has been hit in the back hard enough to slightly dent >and push in the tail gate, the lock has continued to work OK. That >is, it did until the other day when it absolutely refused to unlock! >After trying everything (lube in lock, using all the copies of that >particular key, etc.) I finally broke down and removed the interior >panel so I could get at the latch mechanism itself and get the door >open. > >(As an aside, I'd never looked at this lock before and I'll describe >the mechanism for anyone that's curious. The key cylinder itself has >a "tail" that's about an inch or so long. When the lock is in the >"unlocked" position the tail is in the position to actuate the >spring-loaded latch mechanism itself. That is, when you push in the >chrome button on the outside the tail pushes the latch, releasing the >door. When the lock is in the "locked" position the tail is >positioned *above* the latch mechanism, so pressing the outside chrome >button causes the tail to "miss" the latch, and you can't open the >door.) > >Anyway, after opening the door I tried to unlock the lock... and it >unlocked just fine! Tried several times locking and unlocking, >closing the door, opening the door, etc., etc., and everything seems >to be copasetic. Before I order a new set of clips for the hatch >panel (I ended up having to bust them off since I couldn't seem to get >them to "unpop" from the door without risking tearing up the panel >itself) does anybody have any insight as to what might have gone wrong >here? I'd hate to have to go through this whole exercise again. > >TIA. >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >----- >Tom Young tomyoung1@home.com >Lafayette, CA 94549 '81 Vanagon >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >----- _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:35:29 EST Reply-To: Trawlertom@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Thomas Ryan Subject: Re: [whine?] Comments: To: biker.pride@usa.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/20/2001 2:05:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, biker.pride@USA.NET writes: << , my 85GL has done this ever since I got it about 4 months ago, I had the trany oil drained and it still whines like a PIG.. any help?? I have the same prob.. Joe >> Joe, Hate to tell you this but my 89 whined for about two years before the tranny overhaul when we found that the bearing had been improperly installed at the factory. Proper pressing and all ok. Tom ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:40:22 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: purpose of shear bolts Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit OK. Now anyone who gives a damn about the purpose of shear bolts, get out your Bentley or take a look under your dash at the steering column. Don't worry, you don't have to climb under the van because everything you have to see is above floor level. Near floor level, coming up through the steering column boot is the lower column. It is a cranked shaft with a two hole flange on its end. The flange has 2 pins facing downward permanently fixed to it. The upper column has a two hole flange on its bottom end which mates to the lower column flange. This is a slip joint which appears to be designed to come apart during a frontal collision. If others had the same experience as I did the first time I removed the shear bolts, the steering column slipped out of the lower column bracket spring clip and separated at this slip fitting. I think Terry is right in saying that the steering column tube mounting bolts (i.e., the shear bolts) shearing will do you no good in a headon. In fact it seems to me that these bolts are designed to do the exact opposite: they are supposed to keep the steering column tube in its place. If the floor is coming up at you, the flanged joint comes apart. If you go hard against the steering wheel the plastic spacer at the top of the steering column crushes to absorb the energy, the steering column slides in the steering column tube and the slip joint at the bottom, again, comes apart. So, as Mark said, they are to prevent tampering. If the steering column tube slips it takes the steering column inside of it along for the ride and the flanged slip joint comes apart. That's not something you want to happen when all you wanted to do was run down to the package store for a six pack. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:29:10 -0800 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Fwd: RE: VDO Oil Pressure sender specs Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hello everyone. I'm still working on the little details of my oil pressure light mysteries....... When the engine really gets warm (over 10 mile and up some steep hills) I'm getting a red light at warm idle, with 10-12 psi through town(barely any petal) or going down hill at 45mph with foot off the gas. All the rest is a solid 20-22 according to the VDO gauge. I'm finding that the gauge isn't all that. I'm not sure how wrong it truely is, but when I get the light, the gauge shows 3ish (by detailled approximating. But according to VDO, below, the light is on at 7psi. So I KNOW my gauge is off by 4psi or so. See the below info. What do gauge owners out there think?? I'd like to know . I have the dual sender, but I would like to hear from anyone with an oil pressure gauge. BTW, I am STILL waiting for the oil pressure relief valve parts that I ordered a week ago today, Priority Mail!! That's my last part-changer prayer. Brian Cochran 84 westy, running a bit hot today for some reason--hopefully ok! >From: "Sharpe, David" >To: Brian Cochran >Subject: RE: Oil Pressure sender specs >Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 23:00:30 -0500 > >the warning contact would be at 7psi, this is with a + or - 5% tolerance > >-----Original Message----- To: Performance, Aftermarket - US1 > >Subject: Oil Pressure sender specs > >I have a 84 VW vanagon with an oil pressure gauge (after-market) and dual > >sending unit. The sender has one electrical hook-up for the gauge and one > >for the dash light. COuld you please inform me as to what the actual >specs > > > >are for the dash light portion of the sender? Someone informed me that it > >was 7-10 psi, but I haven't been able to confirm that. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:46:52 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: List admin: RE spam Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >List admin, >I am on 5 vw lists, and this is the only one with Spam. There has to be a >filter for it, or I would be getting it from everywhere. > >Adam Puzerewski I'm on 3 VW lists and 2 Mac lists, and have to report the same. Mind, one of the Mac lists passes along corrupted messages. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:11:22 -0500 Reply-To: jbrush@AROS.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Brush Subject: Re: can 85 westy pull boat? In-Reply-To: <3ABC12CC.8E25B0DE@surfree.com> >> Do any of you tow a fishing boat with a stock 1.9? I want to buy a 14ft boat >> to pull with my Westy. If you do whats it like as far as handling, stopping >> and esp backing the trailer in and out of the launch. Any info would be >> appreciated. Spencer, I have been on this list for the better part of the last three or four years, at least as a lurker :) and I can tell you that you won't get an answer to your question. I mean no disrepect to the great folks on the list, its just that I don't think any of them tow anything with their vans. I have asked the same type of questions, and the replies are not from people who are towing, but from folks who seem to know someone who does :) The answers are correct, and have good information, but I have yet to hear from anyone actually doing it. If its of any value, I recently bought a small (under 1000lbs) tent trailer that I can pull with my car, but would rather pull with my van, so I will be finding out what happens and will be sure to pass on the experience. I am sure I can pull it, but I am more concerned with stopping it, and the long term effect on the engine. I have installed an oil temp gauge, and will monitor it closely. I suspect that it will not be the best thing in the world to tow with, but I am gonna find out. I will let you know, and I again state that this is not intended to offend anyone, and if someone is towing with a vanagon, we would love to hear from you :) Regards from Utah, John ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:43:36 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: [whine?] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >my 89 whined for about two years before the tranny > overhaul when we found that the bearing had been improperly installed < yeah, mine did that too til we changed the cracked (but not broken) pinion gear in the tranny. quiet as a mouse now. (a quiet vanagon? that's an oxymoron, isn't it?) Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Thomas Ryan To: Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 6:35 PM Subject: Re: [whine?] > In a message dated 3/20/2001 2:05:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, > biker.pride@USA.NET writes: > > << , > my 85GL has done this ever since I got it about 4 months ago, I had the > trany oil drained and it still whines like a PIG.. > > any help?? I have the same prob.. > > Joe >> > > Joe, > > Hate to tell you this but my 89 whined for about two years before the tranny > overhaul when we found that the bearing had been improperly installed at the > factory. Proper pressing and all ok. > > Tom > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 02:51:05 EST Reply-To: Syncro16@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom Niksch Subject: Re: [Syncro] Where is Poznan? what is this "CG5" on the end? Comments: To: doublecabguy@powersurfr.com, Syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In einer eMail vom 23.03.01 06:01:10 (MEZ) Mitteleurop=E4ische Zeit schreibt= =20 doublecabguy@powersurfr.com: << what is this "CG5" on the end? >> see www.syncro16.de=20 checkout idex look for "Preisliste" or: http//:members.aol.com/syncro16/homepage/preise.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 04:00:10 EST Reply-To: Syncro16@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom Niksch Subject: what is this "CG5" on the end? Corrected link (sorry!) Comments: To: doublecabguy@powersurfr.com, Syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit CrewCab: 247 GC5 means a certain combination of features: Gasonine engine :Benzin (Digifant) Tire size: 205 R 14 C kw/Horespower: 70 / 95 Transmission: 4 + G Retail Price in Germany 1992 incl. VAT: 43.395,25 DM for other examples chack : http://members.aol.com/syncro16/homepage/91preis.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 04:41:39 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: purpose of shear bolts Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Rico Sapolich 's message of Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:40:22 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Rich, Now we're getting somewhere !!! Forget the shear bolt analysis---- Let's get to the six-pack's !! And if enough of the six-packs are consumed, wh gives a damn about the shear bolt's---Hick!! Burp!! :>) Amen!!, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 04:37:54 -0700 Reply-To: Double-Cab Guy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Double-Cab Guy Subject: Re: [Syncro] Where is Poznan? Comments: To: "Forhan, Thomas" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0B41C.316D3B20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0B41C.316D3B20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Tom, Thanks for the info. I too have spent time in Bosnia, two tours of duty. I have some pictures of the destroyed remains of the VW plant. It was completely destroyed during the war and is still just a pile of = ruins. This factory was in worse shape than the photos of Wolfsburg at the end = of the war. From my understanding and what I was told by the locals the plant in = Sarajevo only produced the VW Caddy or the Rabbit pick-up as it was = known over here. There are a huge amount of VW's there most of them were brought in to = the country by returning "guest workers", people who had worked abroad = as laborers.=20 There is quiet the hand me down cycle in Germany, as a vehicle becomes 5 = or 6 yeas old it is sold off. They are sold off to buyers from other eastern European countries were = the pollution and mechanical standards are lower. So the older it gets the farther east it goes until it ends up in = Russia. I remember that the most prized car was the Rabbit and Golf (MK2 if they = were wealthy) diesel. They really loved the durability an longevity of these cars.=20 But they drove like madmen on the roads. The roads were often more dangerous than the fighting! But the most dangerous job in the whole country was as a fuel truck = driver. Diesel during the war sold for 200DM per liter! It was in Sarajevo during the war that I first heard of Bio-diesel. I remember seeing these beat up old Rabbit diesels running around and = when they drove buy you, all you could smell was French fries! If you liked older VW's Bosnia was the place to find them. Cheers Glen ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Forhan, Thomas=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 7:39 AM Subject: Re: [Syncro] Where is Poznan? Poznan is in Poland. Interesting. =20 When I was in Bosnia a couple of years ago, Vanagons were everywhere. = Tons of them, clearly the predominent light truck and van.=20 =20 I asked, and it turned out VW had a Vanagon plant there too, before = the civil war. I saw a few Syncros , but not a lot, and of course they = could have been built elsewhere. =20 Tom F.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0B41C.316D3B20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Tom,
 
Thanks for the info.
I too have spent time in Bosnia, two tours of=20 duty.
I have some pictures of the destroyed remains of = the VW=20 plant.
It was completely destroyed during the war and = is still=20 just a pile of ruins.
This factory was in worse shape than the photos = of=20 Wolfsburg at the end of the war.
From my understanding and what I was told by the = locals=20 the plant in Sarajevo only produced the VW Caddy or the Rabbit pick-up = as it was=20 known over here.
There are a huge amount of VW's there most of = them were=20 brought in to the country by returning "guest workers", people who had = worked=20 abroad as laborers.
There is quiet the hand me down cycle in = Germany, as a=20 vehicle becomes 5 or 6 yeas old it is sold off.
They are sold off to buyers from other eastern = European=20 countries were the pollution and mechanical standards are = lower.
So the older it gets the farther east it goes = until it=20 ends up in Russia.
 
I remember that the most prized car was the = Rabbit and=20 Golf (MK2 if they were wealthy) diesel.
They really loved the durability an longevity of = these=20 cars.
But they drove like madmen on the = roads.
The roads were often more dangerous than the=20 fighting!
But the most dangerous job in the whole country = was as a=20 fuel truck driver.
Diesel during the war sold for 200DM per=20 liter!
It was in Sarajevo during the war that I first = heard of=20 Bio-diesel.
I remember seeing these beat up old Rabbit = diesels running=20 around and when they drove buy you, all you could smell was French=20 fries!
 
If you liked older VW's Bosnia was the place to = find=20 them.
 
Cheers
Glen
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Forhan, Thomas
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 = 7:39=20 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro] Where is=20 Poznan?

Poznan is in Poland. = Interesting.
 
When=20 I was in Bosnia a couple of years ago, Vanagons were everywhere. Tons = of them,=20 clearly the predominent light truck and van.
 
I=20 asked, and it turned out VW had a Vanagon plant there too, before the = civil=20 war. I saw a few Syncros , but not a lot, and of course they could = have been=20 built elsewhere.
 
Tom=20 F. 
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C0B41C.316D3B20-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 07:13:01 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: AFC Spring Adjustment Comments: To: Mark McCulley MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark McCulley wrote: > I've seen the topic of AFM spring adjustment discussed on this list for > years now and I still don't understand how spring tension can affect the > mixture in a closed-loop system. The O2 sensor (in conjunction with the ECU) > ultimately determines the mixture based on the amount of O2 in the exhaust, > right? So what does changing the AFM spring tension really do? > > Mark McCulley > Seattle WA I'm new to this topic, but it seems to me that the AFM tension needs to be "in the ballpark" to give the O2-ECM loop a chance to work correctly. If your mpg is respectable and you don't have relevant drivability problems, I wouldn't mess with it. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." But then again, inquiring minds want to know... Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:12:23 -0800 Reply-To: dawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dawn Subject: list guru's cam bearings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ok here it goes after tearing down the engine.We started to look at all the bearings and oil pump in the engine.The engine had 229,000 miles on it and the cam thrust bearing had lost its nickel plating on the side of the bearing.I know this is normal if the engine ran hot ,but would the other bearing show the same wear? if anyone wants to look at the bearing I can show them pics of it.On the back of the bearing it has numbers 06-87 9086 part number 021101521 what I want to know why is this bearing baked on the sides ? also for the oil light blinkers out there rebuild your engine! I was major wear in the oil pump and in the bearings so if your oil light still blinks after you change the oil sending units ,Rebuild the darn thing not unless you have a real good cash flow for your pockets! Darrel 88 blown the hard way! no super charger needed ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:54:58 -0500 Reply-To: "W. Silva" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "W. Silva" Subject: Rebuilt Auto Transmission Source? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I guess we need to get our '85 Westy's automatic transmission rebuilt, it has 240,000 miles on it and is leaking ATF from the vent (?) hole. Just where it is initially coming from is hard to tell but in any event we should probably start thinking about either buying a rebuilt, the whole sootin' match, or having this one rebuilt. There are no transmissions shops that are any good around here and the VW dealership has no clue (does that come as a surprise to anyone?). I'm hoping to get some insight into the leaking before having to shell out allot of bucks so anyone with some knowledge on the subject, please pass it on. Thanks in advance John & Wendy Cape Cod, MA '85 Westfalia "S-Cape" '98 Passat "The Doo-Dah Machine" CAMPERS ON CAPE COD A LiMBO sponsored VW camping event in September ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 06:27:05 -0800 Reply-To: patty and danny Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: patty and danny Subject: alternator wires (last post hopefully) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Okay I'm officially starting my project today (putting an isolator in and replacing most of the wiring). I have everything planned except one last thing is sticking in my mind. The person who owned my westy before me installed the aux battery system. They did a terrible job including installing the wrong isolator and then even only istalling that one halfway. It resulted in chronically dead batteries (both of them, even after I replaced both of them) so I need to make sure that everything is hooked up as it needs to be when I replace the wiring. So my question is -- what goes between the alternator and the battery. On those two 12 ga wires that come out of the alternator and in some form end up at the battery, what special connections are there along the way (starter?, etc.)? I truly appeciate all of the help everyone has been offering. Thank You, Danny '81 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:21:59 -0500 Reply-To: marty Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: marty Subject: broken antenna MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Listers!! I got my battery in, ordered a Bentley's (not here yet) and parts for a tune-up. I'd like to start working on the antenna that appears to have been broken off at the base. The only thing left is the black plastic antenna base piece and the rubber seal (which is cracked and falling apart). I notice 2 flat surfaces on the plastic piece that appear to be for removing it and I tried turning it a little with a wrench only to have the rubber crack a little more. I thought I'd consult the wisdom of the list before I continued any further. Marty 85 GL 1.9 (status: needs tune-up & exhaust BAD) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:28:19 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Rebuilt Auto Transmission Source? Comments: To: "W. Silva" In-Reply-To: "W. Silva" 's message of Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:54:58 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit What might appear to be a vent leak, may very well be the o-rings leaking at the trans cooler mount, which is at the front of the trans, and it's blowing back and up as you drive. Check out the front of the trans, above the front motor mount, the cooler is mounted there,and see if it's wet. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:05:55 -0800 Reply-To: shilohz@JPS.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Zezoff Subject: Re: can 85 westy pull boat? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes? My 82 diesel to inlline 4 digifant with the diesel gearing pulls my 85 ski nautique competiion ski boat. It weighs close to 3000#. I only drive about 10 miles, and the trailer has tailer brakes. It pulls it out of the water ok. Do any of you tow a fishing boat with a stock 1.9? I want to buy a 14ft boat to pull with my Westy. If you do whats it like as far as handling, stopping and esp backing the trailer in and out of the launch. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Spencer ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:17:49 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: More stuff I found. Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hey all, Going through my shop's hidden inner sanctum's I found two item's that someone else may benefit from. (1) a rear wiper arm in nice shape, pivot's freely, good spring tension. I just payed $39.00 for the new one from The B.D. (didn't even know I had this) I'll sell it for $10.00. (2) A VW issue, Introductory Service Information Manual, for the Water Cooled Vanagon,Maintenance and Adjustments. It is mostly good for Vanagon's from 83 to 85.5, in that it covers the Digijet injection system. A lot of good diagrams, pictures, and technical data, on the Vanagon. It has 99 pages and includes---- Engine-Assembly Engine-Crankshaft,Crankcase Engine-Cylinder Head-Valve Drive Engine-Lubrication system Engine-Lubrication System Engine-Cooling System Fuel Supply Fuel Injection, AFC System Exhaust System- Emission Controls Ignition System Manual Transmission-Controls,Assembly Special Tools New Vehicle Delivery Inspection Lubrication,.Emission and Vehicle Maintenance Wiring Diagrams The books in nice shape, and if I remember correctly I payed $30.00 for it, at a swap meet, and I already had one in stock. I'll sell it for the same, plus whatever it takes to get to you in postage. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:15:03 -0500 Reply-To: credit12@MINDSPRING.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: credit12@MINDSPRING.COM Subject: GUARANTEED way to QUICKLY have EXCELLENT CREDIT!! $$ GUARANTEED WAY TO QUICKLY HAVE EXCELLENT CREDIT!! $$ Dear Friend, Give yourself the ADVANTAGE of enjoying life more with EXCELLENT CREDIT!! Over the past 8 years I have perfected a system called the Proven Credit Advantage Program. It's a guaranteed way for legally getting an excellent credit rating almost instantly. Here's how: If you have bad credit you will simply go through my easy 5 step program to quickly get a new, legal, unblemished credit file and establish Excellent Credit. If you don't have bad credit, but want to make your existing credit EXCELLENT, we will go straight to STEP 5. Step 1 - Because no two people in the United States have the same Social Security Number, Banks and Creditors access your credit file almost entirely by your SS#. You will not want to change your Social Security Number because it is extremely difficult to do so and you need it for your Employment, Taxes and Social Security Benefits. The FEDERAL PRIVACY ACT OF 1974 clearly states that only the Government and your employer can force you to use your SS#. Because of this law you are allowed to legally use another 9 digit number to use in place of your Social Security # on credit applications. The first day you become our client, you will receive your own number through the Employer Identification Number Program. You will need us for this because 95% of all Employer Identification Numbers, although 9 digits, do not look anything like Social Security Numbers and cannot be used on credit applications. We will legally get you an Employer Identification Number that fits in the same range of Social Numbers in use today. Because the Federal Laws do not require you to give your SS# to anyone besides your Employer and the Government, you can now legally use this number in place of your SS# on credit applications. Remember, your new number will only be used for new credit. Step 2 - No two people with the same name have the same mailing address, so you will need to obtain a new mailing address for use on your new credit file. A friend, relative or mailbox address in your area will be perfect. Step 3 - No two people with the same name have the same telephone numbers, so you will also need a new telephone number for use on your new credit file. A friend, relative, voice mail or pager will again work perfectly. Step 4 - With your new Social Security number, new address and new telephone number we will open your new credit file. It will now be totally impossible for any creditor to know anything about your past credit history. Step 5- To guarantee that you will quickly have EXCELLENT CREDIT, we will assist you in instantly adding UNLIMITED positive information to your credit file. This is an unknown way of adding real accounts to your new credit file to give you an Excellent Credit Rating in less than 15 days. As you know, the more positive information on your credit file, the more money banks will lend you. Countless clients of ours have credit lines over $100,000 because of our Proven Credit Advantage Program! When we are finished you will receive a copy of your credit file proving that you now have excellent credit! This will take less than 15 days. You will now be able to easily qualify for ANY credit you apply for! To be on the road to EXCELLENT CREDIT simply send us your name, complete mailing address including zip code and telephone number (optional), along with a check or money order payable to American Financial Services Inc. for $29.95. Send to: American Financial Services Inc. Attn.: Mike Robbins 311 N. Robertson Blvd. Suite 625 Beverly Hills, CA 90210 All necessary paperwork along with a telephone number to contact us for assistance will be sent to you priority mailed to you within 3 business days. $$$$ RISK FREE DOUBLE YOUR MONEY BACK GUARANTEE!! $$$$ My Proven Credit Advantage Program unconditionally guarantees you will qualify for personal loans, business loans, credit cards, auto loans, home loans and any other credit you apply for! If you are not able to qualify for credit after using my program, simply return your Proven Credit Advantage Program along with your denial letter and your $29.95 investment will be refunded DOUBLE! That's a $59.90 refund if this doesn't work like I said! I make this guarantee to you because the Proven Credit Advantage Program has already helped over 15,000 people just like you. I KNOW it works - all you need to do is sign up TODAY! I truly look forward to making you another SATISFIED CLIENT!! ................................................................. Yes! I deserve excellent credit. Please enroll me in the Proven Credit Advantage Program. Enclosed is my check/money order for $29.95. The following information is for our records only and does not need to be your new credit file information. First Name______________________________ Last Name________________________________ Address__________________________________ City_____________________________________ State_______________Zip__________________ Telephone(optional)______________________ e-mail___________________________________ If you would prefer to download your Proven Credit Advantage Program, simply check below and we will e-mail you a download upon receipt of your order. Otherwise we will Priority Mail your program to the above address. ___ Please e-mail me my PROVEN CREDIT ADVANTAGE PROGRAM to the above e-mail address. ___ Please send me my PROVEN CREDIT ADVANTAGE PROGRAM via United States Priority Mail to the above address. Send $29.95 to: American Financial Services Inc. Attn: Mike Robbins 311 N. Robertson Blvd. Suite 625 Beverly Hills, CA 90210 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:04:38 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: More stuff Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Moms and Dads----- Boys and Girls, Just a note to inform you that the introductory Service Manual is sold---Like Hasta Lavista, Baby. Mucho Gracas, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:13:53 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Beware of this guy! Dave Urbano MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_3d.9460f8c.27ee2fd1_boundary" --part1_3d.9460f8c.27ee2fd1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have had the very unfortunate experience of dealing with David Urbano (email address durbano@eclipse.net) who recently posted to this list that he had a 90 Vanagon for sale in North New Jersey. I called him and asked him about the van. It had around 150k miles on it, the motor is bad (this is all I can get from him or the dealer that looked at the van). I asked him how much he wanted for the van. He said $800. I said that I would check with my towing people and get back to him. I found out that I could get it towed for $300 so I called him back to see if he would go $700 so I would have $1000 total invested. He said he would think about it and to call him in the morning. I called him the next day and he agreed to the $700, and I immediately sent him the money via priority mail envelope. However yesterday, after he got the money for the van, he emails me and tells me that he has gotten a few other offers and that I either need to double the amount of money I had already sent him, or he would sell the van to someone else. I told him that this is not the way I do business. We made a deal which I upheld my end on and now he has decided to back out for no other reason except selfish greed. When you do a dirty trick to someone like this, I think it is only fair to warn other people against this person (who knows what else they are being dishonest about as far as the condition of the vehicle, etc). I am not saying that the van is not worth more, or that someone else wouldn't pay more for it, etc, but HE was the one that set the price of $800 initially and then agreed to the $700 (I didn't low ball him, he low balled himself). I wanted to buy the van, sight unseen (a risky thing) because the price was so good. Now that he is doubling the price after our verbal contract, I just wanted to warn others to avoid this guy. About 99% of the time you can trust people in our community to do exactly (if not even more) than what they promise, and for this I am grateful. It really just makes people like Dave even more annoying. I have emails to back up what I say if you want to see what he wrote me (this letter is actually being nice if you read the junk he sent me). Just FYI, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_3d.9460f8c.27ee2fd1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have had the very unfortunate experience of dealing with David Urbano
(email address durbano@eclipse.net) who recently posted to this list that he
had a 90 Vanagon for sale in North New Jersey.  I called him and asked him
about the van.  It had around 150k miles on it, the motor is bad (this is all
I can get from him or the dealer that looked at the van).  I asked him how
much he wanted for the van.  He said $800.  I said that I would check with my
towing people and get back to him.  I found out that I could get it towed for
$300 so I called him back to see if he would go $700 so I would have $1000
total invested.  He said he would think about it and to call him in the
morning.  I called him the next day and he agreed to the $700, and I
immediately sent him the money via priority mail envelope.  However
yesterday, after he got the money for the van, he emails me and tells me that
he has gotten a few other offers and that I either need to double the amount
of money I had already sent him, or he would sell the van to someone else.  I
told him that this is not the way I do business.  We made a deal which I
upheld my end on and now he has decided to back out for no other reason
except selfish greed.  When you do a dirty trick to someone like this, I
think it is only fair to warn other people against this person (who knows
what else they are being dishonest about as far as the condition of the
vehicle, etc).  I am not saying that the van is not worth more, or that
someone else wouldn't pay more for it, etc, but HE was the one that set the
price of $800 initially and then agreed to the $700 (I didn't low ball him,
he low balled himself).  I wanted to buy the van, sight unseen (a risky
thing) because the price was so good.  Now that he is doubling the price
after our verbal contract, I just wanted to warn others to avoid this guy.  
About 99% of the time you can trust people in our community to do exactly (if
not even more) than what they promise, and for this I am grateful.  It really
just makes people like Dave even more annoying.

I have emails to back up what I say if you want to see what he wrote me (this
letter is actually being nice if you read the junk he sent me).

Just FYI,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_3d.9460f8c.27ee2fd1_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:13:24 -0500 Reply-To: =David-M= Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: =David-M= Organization: . Subject: Help! How get to rear heater? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm trying to replace a burst coolant hose that goes to the rear heater. How do I get to the rear heater? I lifted up the rear bench seat and removed the six screws I found. Stupidly, I thought I'd be able to lift off the shroud. But no, the shroud encircles the outlet so that it still cannot be lifted off. Do I have to remove the rear seat baseboard? Or, is there someway to pull off the plastic outlet vent? Neither the Bentley or Haynes manuals give any help other than showing exactly the same picture of it with the shroud already removed. Help! I ned to get my van back on the road asap. PS. Since I am now in Arizona, do I even need this auxiliary heater? Is there any way to bypass it? - David 1987 Wolfsburg ("The Bismarck" currently renamed the $%&#!@*) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:23:05 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: anyone want ETKA CD's? (dealer vw/audi parts microfiche cd) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_e3.122df3c3.27ee31f9_boundary" --part1_e3.122df3c3.27ee31f9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a ETKA cd, and if anyone has a cd burner and they want to copy it let me know.. locally chris --part1_e3.122df3c3.27ee31f9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a ETKA cd, and if anyone has a cd burner and they want to copy it let
me know..
locally
chris --part1_e3.122df3c3.27ee31f9_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 19:27:21 +0200 Reply-To: Stebbins Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stebbins Organization: The American University in Cairo Subject: Schreeching Alternator/belt MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit When I start my 91 (syncro Westy) up I get a real SCREECH from the back. When I go back there and take off the engine lid, I think it is coming from the alternator (I only have the alternator, water pump and main pulley - NO air and no power steering pulleys) . This SCREECH lasts about 30 seconds and then no problem while driving until I let the van sit a bit then start it up, then another 30 seconds of SCREECH. I changed the belt (the old belt was OK) and I still get the SCREECH. There is not too much tension on the belt, if anything, the belt is a bit loose (I just tightened it hand tight). When I pore some water on the belt and pulley, the SCREECH goes away. Does this mean that the alternator is about to give out, or is it just a recalcitrant belt and pulley, or should I tighten the belt??? Thanks, Malcolm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:27:36 -0800 Reply-To: Pat Callaghan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Pat Callaghan Subject: One of those days Comments: To: type2@type2.com, Wetwesties Email list MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, I was out looking at the worn tracks on my AFM & decided I needed a new one along with other factors. While I was looking I noticed a fuel leak at the hose connection for the cold start valve. No big deal I will just change all the hoses while I am at it. While I am removing the hose form the valve the plastic end brakes off. My day just got more expensive. I will order the valve & rebuilt AFM from Bus Depot on Monday but in the mean time my bus is down. Oh, I also broke one of the plastic vacuum lines while making room to break (I mean fix) my cold start leak. Thank you for letting me vent a little. Pat Callaghan 82 Westy Portland, OR. http://www.users.qwest.net/~patcal ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:28:28 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: auto trans FS Comments: To: wsilva@capecod.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_9d.130a4214.27ee333c_boundary" --part1_9d.130a4214.27ee333c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a good auto trans for sale, fits 83-'91 vanagon --part1_9d.130a4214.27ee333c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a good auto trans for sale, fits 83-'91 vanagon

--part1_9d.130a4214.27ee333c_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:35:08 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? Comments: To: dmc@cyburban.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_1e.131be644.27ee34cc_boundary" --part1_1e.131be644.27ee34cc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 12:21:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, dmc@CYBURBAN.COM writes: > PS. Since I am now in Arizona, do I even need this auxiliary heater? Is > there any way to bypass it? > > yes, you can bypass it with a homemade copper pipe U fitting. if you have a weekender (like you do) then you need to remove the back sofabed to get the heater out chris --part1_1e.131be644.27ee34cc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 12:21:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dmc@CYBURBAN.COM writes:


PS. Since I am now in Arizona, do I even need this auxiliary heater? Is
there any way to bypass it?




yes, you can bypass it with a homemade copper pipe U fitting.   if you have a
weekender (like you do) then you need to remove the back sofabed to get the
heater out
chris --part1_1e.131be644.27ee34cc_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:37:27 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? Comments: To: =David-M= In-Reply-To: =David-M= 's message of Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:13:24 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit David, It just so happens that I wanted to get to my rear heater assy, last weekend, and experiancedthe same BS, in getting the cover off the heater. Here is what I did, and it took all of 5 minutes. I removed the front of the seatbase (4 screws) and took my die grinder, with a small cutting bit, and cut the stupid piece that goes under the vent, off. BANG !!! Off comes the cover!! What a stupid idea the guy had that designed that gizmo. Now I can remove the cover at will. No more being a contortionist, or swearing. A Dremel tool will work if you don't have any air, or a Die grinder. Happy cutting, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:50:42 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: [whine?] Comments: To: Trawlertom@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The tranny in my 85 GL was very quiet. I had it rebuilt, it was still quiet. My 88 GL however is another matter. It Whines or "Sings" loudly. I had the tranny torn down for other reasons and had it inspected carefully. There was the slightest mis-alignment of the ring and pinion and it had worn just a bit out of position. At 90,000 miles the wear pattern was set, and short of changeing it out, my choice was to live with the noise. I did the latter. If I upgrade to an new gearing, say with Weddles parts or put in a 5th forward gear then I will be rid of the noise. John Rodgers 88 GL Driver Thomas Ryan wrote: > > In a message dated 3/20/2001 2:05:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, > biker.pride@USA.NET writes: > > << , > my 85GL has done this ever since I got it about 4 months ago, I had the > trany oil drained and it still whines like a PIG.. > > any help?? I have the same prob.. > > Joe >> > > Joe, > > Hate to tell you this but my 89 whined for about two years before the tranny > overhaul when we found that the bearing had been improperly installed at the > factory. Proper pressing and all ok. > > Tom ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:36:58 -0800 Reply-To: jofo@INNERCITE.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: jofo@INNERCITE.COM Subject: FS: '82 Diesel van - $250 - Sacramento CA Ad in today's Sacramento Bee "VW Vanagon 1982 diesel, needs head gasket. $250. (916)455-3907" That would be a cheap I-4 adapter for somebody......... I have no connection with this ad. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:42:49 -0700 Reply-To: Ryan Hierlmeier Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ryan Hierlmeier Subject: single cab for sale cheap!!! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

85 vw single cab new moter, some minor rust.  $6500us plus delivery


Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:50:44 -0800 Reply-To: Larry Innes Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Innes Subject: auto trans -> manual trans conversion? In-Reply-To: <200103241733.f2OHXq037899@mail2.megamailservers.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Hi, folks - I'm in the same boat as a couple of you...I've got a leaky auto tranny in my 85 GL Westy, which also is getting wonky in the shift from 2nd into 3rd. Expert advice here is to replace it, which is a $1500 CDN proposition for a rebuilt one. What I'm wondering is whether or not anyone on the List has swapped their auto for a manual. I'd be partial to a manual, assuming that I can get one installed for something less than what the auto would cost me. All wisdom and advice welcome. Cheers, -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- Larry Innes Victoria, BC CANADA 87 Westfalia GL "Blu" -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:53:49 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: AFM photos update Comments: To: 72510.1173@COMPUSERVE.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The cover is held on with silicone caulk. Tale a large flat-bladed screwdriver and VERY gently and SLOWLY pry up on the edge of the cover. If you use too much force you will break the plastic. By working your way around the edges and slowly lifting you will eventually break the seal and be able to lift the cover off. I used high-temperature silicon caulk to reseal the cover upon replacement. Todd '88 Westy Helen Fahy wrote: > Thanks for taking the time to display this. BTW, what is the best way to > remove the outer black plastic cover? > > Thanks, > Joe Fahy > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Todd Last" > To: > Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 10:47 AM > Subject: AFM photos update > > > > > For those interested, I've updated my photos of the inside of the AFM to > > include a new AFM. > > Just in case you want to compare what new vs. worn looks like. > > > > They also show the 'spring' and adjustment wheel people are asking > > about. > > > > You can find them here: http://rubatoguy.home.mindspring.com/afm.html > > > > > > Todd > > '88 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:01:40 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: [Lowering the vanagon] Comments: To: Joe Fortino MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My '88 Westy is lowered with H&R springs and my mudflap is nearly dragging. Someone else posted an opinion to avoid H&R springs, and after a couple of years with them, I have to agree. I am eagerly awaiting the replacement 2wd springs list purchase to replace them. WHat I have noticed about the H&R springs is that the fronts have appeared to sag over time. I think I have about 3 inches clearance under my mudflap. but, I can fit in spaces under 6" 8" Todd '88 Westy Joe Fortino wrote: > good question, new coils pre-cut? my wife does'nt want me to lower > but I was about -2iches I bet it would ride great! > > anyone draggin the mud flaps?? hehe > Joe > > Shawn wrote: > > > --------------------------------------------- > > > Attachment: > > > MIME Type: multipart/alternative > > --------------------------------------------- > Hello, > I own a 1984 vanagon and was looking for some info on lowering the > low buck way (cutting the coil springs). I have done this before to other > vehicles with success, but i had the proper info from others that have > worked out all the problems they came across while doing these projects. > I have no knoledge of the vanagon as far as whats going to happen > with camber (+ -). I also need to know how many coils to cut and still > keep tension on the spring when the van is jacked up off the gruond. > Has anyone done this or is this a project i should just forget about. > Thanks > Shawn > > VW addict > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:05:55 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: boiling the radiator out? Comments: To: dawn MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was told by a radiator shop that they can't "boil out" the plastic/aluminum radiators. Seems that there is a high rate of failure after doing this in the seams between the plastic and the core. Todd '88 Westy dawn wrote: > can you safely boil the radiator out while you have it out of the > vanagon? ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:08:54 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: can 85 westy pull boat? Comments: To: SPENCERVW@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've pulled a small trailer with my Westy. Pulling it was not any big problem. Stopping it was. I had to give lots of extra space to stop in time. Todd '88 Westy Spencer Allen wrote: > Do any of you tow a fishing boat with a stock 1.9? I want to buy a 14ft boat > to pull with my Westy. If you do whats it like as far as handling, stopping > and esp backing the trailer in and out of the launch. Any info would be > appreciated. > Thanks > Spencer ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:23:34 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? Comments: To: =David-M= I have had mine bypassed for a couple years now. The only time I miss it is if I run up to Flag in the wintertime, and even then it's only a convenience. However, I'm doing a bunch of different projects on the van, and the rear heater will be one of them, if for no other reason, then just because I'd like everything to work the way it's supposed to. Karl Wolz Phoenix, too ----- Original Message ----- From: "=David-M=" To: Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 11:13 AM Subject: Help! How get to rear heater? > I'm trying to replace a burst coolant hose that goes to the rear heater. > How do I get to the rear heater? I lifted up the rear bench seat and > removed the six screws I found. Stupidly, I thought I'd be able to lift > off the shroud. But no, the shroud encircles the outlet so that it still > cannot be lifted off. > Do I have to remove the rear seat baseboard? Or, is there someway to > pull off the plastic outlet vent? > Neither the Bentley or Haynes manuals give any help other than showing > exactly the same picture of it with the shroud already removed. > Help! I ned to get my van back on the road asap. > > PS. Since I am now in Arizona, do I even need this auxiliary heater? Is > there any way to bypass it? > > - David 1987 Wolfsburg ("The Bismarck" currently renamed the $%&#!@*) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:25:15 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Schreeching Alternator/belt Comments: To: Stebbins Put a little brake fluid on a paper towel and moisten the belt, then tighten it a bit. Should be 1/2 to 3/4 inch of deflection. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stebbins" To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 10:27 AM Subject: Schreeching Alternator/belt > When I start my 91 (syncro Westy) up I get a real SCREECH > from the back. When I go back there and take off the engine > lid, I think it is coming from the alternator (I only have > the alternator, water pump and main pulley - NO air and no > power steering pulleys) . This SCREECH lasts about 30 > seconds and then no problem while driving until I let the > van sit a bit then start it up, then another 30 seconds of > SCREECH. > > I changed the belt (the old belt was OK) and I still get the > SCREECH. There is not too much tension on the belt, if > anything, the belt is a bit loose (I just tightened it > hand tight). When I pore some water on the belt and pulley, > the SCREECH goes away. > > Does this mean that the alternator is about to give out, or > is it just a recalcitrant belt and pulley, or should I > tighten the belt??? > > Thanks, Malcolm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:22:44 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: auto trans -> manual trans conversion? Comments: To: linnes@innu.ca MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_e4.12d0392c.27ee3ff4_boundary" --part1_e4.12d0392c.27ee3ff4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 1:19:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, linnes@INNU.CA writes: > I'm in the same boat as a couple of you...I've got a leaky auto > tranny in my 85 GL Westy, which also is getting wonky in the shift > from 2nd into 3rd. Expert advice here is to replace it, which is a > $1500 CDN proposition for a rebuilt one. > > and then in a year or so youll be back in the same boat when your manual tranny develops a crack in the 3/4 gear slider hub (as they all do, sooner or later). the auto trannys are more relaiable than the vanual trannys on the wbx vanagons.. chris --part1_e4.12d0392c.27ee3ff4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 1:19:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, linnes@INNU.CA
writes:


I'm in the same boat as a couple of you...I've got a leaky auto
tranny in my 85 GL Westy, which also is getting wonky in the shift
from 2nd into 3rd. Expert advice here is to replace it, which is a
$1500 CDN proposition for a rebuilt one.



and then in a year or so youll be back in the same boat when your manual
tranny develops a crack in the 3/4 gear slider hub (as they all do, sooner or
later).
the auto trannys are more relaiable than the vanual trannys on the wbx
vanagons..
chris --part1_e4.12d0392c.27ee3ff4_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:30:47 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: AFM photos update Comments: To: Todd Last Run a knife around the edge before you use the screwdriver and it'll be a bit easier. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Last" To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 10:53 AM Subject: Re: AFM photos update > The cover is held on with silicone caulk. > Tale a large flat-bladed screwdriver and VERY gently and SLOWLY pry up on the > edge of the cover. > If you use too much force you will break the plastic. By working your way > around the edges and slowly lifting you will eventually break the seal and be > able to lift the cover off. > > I used high-temperature silicon caulk to reseal the cover upon replacement. > > Todd > '88 Westy > > Helen Fahy wrote: > > > Thanks for taking the time to display this. BTW, what is the best way to > > remove the outer black plastic cover? > > > > Thanks, > > Joe Fahy > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Todd Last" > > To: > > Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 10:47 AM > > Subject: AFM photos update > > > > > > > > For those interested, I've updated my photos of the inside of the AFM to > > > include a new AFM. > > > Just in case you want to compare what new vs. worn looks like. > > > > > > They also show the 'spring' and adjustment wheel people are asking > > > about. > > > > > > You can find them here: http://rubatoguy.home.mindspring.com/afm.html > > > > > > > > > Todd > > > '88 Westy > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:28:15 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? (great idea!!) Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b9.c84c88d.27ee413f_boundary" --part1_b9.c84c88d.27ee413f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 12:41:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes: > Here is what I did, and it took all of 5 minutes. > I removed the front of the seatbase (4 screws) and took my die grinder, > with a small cutting bit, and cut the stupid piece that goes under the > vent, off. > BANG !!! > Off comes the cover!! > What a stupid idea the guy had that designed that gizmo. > Now I can remove the cover at will. > No more being a contortionist, or swearing. > A Dremel tool will work if you don't have any air, or a Die grinder. > > good idea!! alot easier than removing the damn seat :<) thanks chris --part1_b9.c84c88d.27ee413f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 12:41:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes:


Here is what I did, and it took all of 5 minutes.
I removed the front of the seatbase (4 screws) and took my die grinder,
with a small cutting bit, and cut the stupid piece that goes under the
vent, off.
BANG !!!
Off comes the cover!!
What a stupid idea the guy had that designed that gizmo.
Now I can remove the cover at will.
No more being a contortionist, or swearing.
A Dremel tool will work if you don't have any air, or a Die grinder.



good idea!!   alot easier than removing the damn seat :<)
thanks
chris --part1_b9.c84c88d.27ee413f_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:32:09 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: pull a boat??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:11:22 -0500 From: John Brush Subject: Re: can 85 westy pull boat? >> Do any of you tow a fishing boat with a stock 1.9? I want to buy a 14ft boat >> to pull with my Westy. If you do whats it like as far as handling, stopping >> and esp backing the trailer in and out of the launch. Any info would be >> appreciated. Yes, a 14 ft boat can have a rather large weight range, everything from very light all the way to really quite heavy fiberglass. Sooooo, here's my perspective. The 1.9 is kinda tough except for the head gasket thing, but pretty underpowered as is (duh). If it was me, and I was really not interested in buying a cheap tow vehichle, I would stay with a real bare bones light aluminum boat. Then I would just use that ole 1.9 with synth oil, run it at TDC or a couple before (premium gas), maybe add a MSDS air cleaner and maybe even a SS header, and tow away. You will shorten the life of the 1.9 some, but how much? Personaly I'd say (depending upon how much you tow it), 15-40%. It kind of depends upon whether or not you can live with the concept of an engine that fails earlier. If your barely able to manage the repairs you allready have then it might not be such a hot idea, but if you can "roll your own" (repairs), it's really not that big of a deal. Hey, it's only an engine! If your able to do your own rebuilds or you can afford to do a replacement once every 10 years, then why not? The only thing that will have increased wear is the engine, diff, tranny, mounts, and CV joints. The van itself is definitely heavy enuf to be a decent tow vehichle, make sure your brakes are in top shape and I'm sure it will "handle" just fine. Mark... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:37:55 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: FS: grey slider doorpanel, FS: carat sofabed and side table panels, fit all vans MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_72.8eafbaa.27ee4383_boundary" --part1_72.8eafbaa.27ee4383_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale: grey slider doorpanel, excellent cond. from carat but fits all '85-'91 vans also for sale: carat sofabed and side table panels, fit any pasenger vanagon, w/ all mounting hardware. includes both side panels and rear sofabed and cushion. all grey. chris --part1_72.8eafbaa.27ee4383_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale: grey slider doorpanel, excellent cond. from carat but fits all
'85-'91 vans
also for sale:
carat sofabed and side table panels, fit any pasenger vanagon, w/ all
mounting hardware.   includes both side panels and rear sofabed and cushion.  
all grey.
chris --part1_72.8eafbaa.27ee4383_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:48:14 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: 1500$ 800$ vanagon. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I found out that I could get it towed for > $300 so I called him back to see if he would go $700 so I would have $1000 > total invested. He said he would think about it and to call him in the > morning. I called him the next day and he agreed to the $700, and I > immediately sent him the money via priority mail envelope. However > yesterday, after he got the money for the van, he emails me and tells me that > he has gotten a few other offers and that I either need to double the amount > of money I had already sent him, or he would sell the van to someone else. I > told him that this is not the way I do business. We made a deal which I > upheld my end on and now he has decided to back out for no other reason > except selfish greed. When you do a dirty trick to someone like this, I > think it is only fair to warn other people against this person (who knows > what else they are being dishonest about as far as the condition of the > vehicle, etc). I am not saying that the van is not worth more, or that > someone else wouldn't pay more for it, etc, but HE was the one that set the > price of $800 initially and then agreed to the $700 (I didn't low ball him, > he low balled himself). Ken, I know how you feel. Once on the 928 Porsche list a non running early euro came up on the mailing list for 3000$, I wanted it. A fellow list member volunteered to act as a liaison for shipping in exchange for a set of polished alloys (pretty generous on my part actually). Well I shipped him the money via Western union, which he promptly shipped back to me. Seems he'd seen the car and decided to buy it himself. It still makes my blood boil. When it comes down to the wire, many people just have no class at all, sorry you found one of them. mark... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:53:18 -0800 Reply-To: jonc Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: jonc Subject: Towing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am currently putting together a TD Syncro to pull my boat.. I have no doubt it will do it... right now I am pulling my boat which is a commercial barge (boat motor and trailer weigh 2200 pounds) with my 85 1.9 with a pretty mikeymouse hitch... I am in Florida on level ground and the ramp is close by... but I must say that the van has launched and removed the boat with zero strain and no problems thus far... I have one of the Haynes costom hitches for the syscro and a custom aluminum and stainless trailor with bronze disc brakes and torsion bars to make things easier for the driver and whatever is towing it... I have heard a lot about these vans not being up to the job but from my experiance the speculation does not square with the performance I have witnessed thus far ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 14:32:48 -0500 Reply-To: =David-M= Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: =David-M= Organization: . Subject: Filtering SPAM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >I am on 5 vw lists, and this is the only one with Spam. There has to be a >filter for it, or I would be getting it from everywhere. > >I'm on 3 VW lists and 2 Mac lists, and have to report the same. Mind, >one >of the Mac lists passes along corrupted messages. You can easily filter SPAM, the difficulty is not removing valid messages along with it. That is what you will never know about the other lists. Filtering is done based on certain keywords but there is always a chance that a good message will contain the same keywords. For instance, a valid message that someone is giving away FREE Vanagon parts might be excluded bacuse of the word FREE. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 11:15:24 -0800 Reply-To: harald_nancy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: harald_nancy Subject: Vanagon Travel photos and trip reports MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi volks, If you like to do some armchair vanagon touring, take a look at our new website at http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/ There are lots of photos and trip reports about places we've traveled with our vanagon westy. Also my technical notes about auxiliary battery systems, poptop rain cover, and my favorite - the vented platinum catalytic heater, with photos. Please let us know if there are any problems downloading, and if the website works ok. Thanks. See you. Harald and Nancy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 15:22:11 -0800 Reply-To: dawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dawn Subject: I-4 conversion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is there anyone on the list that can tell me more about the i4 conversion cost labor things that is envoved I have a donor car that was t-boned 87 golf. what am i looking at ? Darrel ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:52:31 -0800 Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stuart MacMillan Subject: Re: Fwd: RE: VDO Oil Pressure sender specs Comments: To: Brian Cochran MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Unfortunately, I actually tested my VDO dual sender on the engine I blew up. The red light came on at about 3 psi, the same as the switch did. Perhaps they make different versions of senders, I can't explain the discrepancy. You can rig up some fittings and tubing to hook up a manual gauge where the sender connects if you want to test it. I really doubt that your gauge is wrong, and your readings are exactly what I had on my engine before I threw a rod. 20 psi at speed is not good, there should be a minimum of 10 psi per 1000 rpm, or 30 psi at speed, 9-10 at idle. When mine dropped to 15-18 at speed the rod went within a few hundred miles and destroyed the engine. Rebuild the engine while you still have one to rebuild! I paid the ultimate price for the denial you now have. Stuart ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 14:55:20 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? (great idea!!) Comments: To: JordanVw@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM's message of Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:28:15 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Chris, I cannot believe that some fool installed the rear heater's and then put the seat in---how stupid !! Now, as I stated in my prior message, if I ever want to work on the rear heater, I take out the 6 screws, and there it is---Mucho easier!! That damn piece of plastic does absolutely nothing---except raise a lot of hair's on peoples backs!! And boy did it ever aggravate me !! Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:42:59 -0800 Reply-To: jmiller@SILCOM.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jon Miller Subject: 1990 GL Camper For Sale - Santa Barbara MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Vanagon people. I am selling my 90 GL Camper, Pearl. She has lived her whole life in Santa Barbara and has been driven 155K miles mostly by my wife on her trips up and down the state. The top side is totally clean, no rust, no dings, with a new CD player even. The bottom side is totally rebuilt (my wife wasn't too good on regular maintenance) - new engine, new shocks, new radiator & hoses, new brakes and more all done by Cory Motors in Santa Barbara at 153K miles last June. A new transmission was put in at 135K miles by McNevin Cadillac & Volkswagen in Berkeley. The price is $15,500. It's worth a lot more, I rebuilt it expecting to keep it but marital issues have caused a change in plans. Jon Miller (805)564-3119 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 17:46:42 -0500 Reply-To: Brian Honan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Honan Subject: Re: High temp after coolant flush ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed >"getting Closer to the road; >I have known new thermostat to not work, but usually they always at least >open. New ones can take a while to open the first time too. How far did >the needle climb in the temp gauge.? This did seem like the thermostat was not opening, from logical thinking. I had it idling at 10 15 min intervals and then about 20 min and the temp needle was climbing vary near the max. Brian Honan 87 Gl > ">My engine today was running hot-ish. I have no clue why. Maybe >it's because it hates me." Brian Cochran >WA >84 westy of vengence > sounds like a love hate relationship. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:30:42 -0500 Reply-To: Bob O'Shaughnessy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob O'Shaughnessy Subject: Re: Filtering SPAM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Filtering is irrelevant. Gerry (the listserver) shouldn't be passing spam at all, but for reasons discussed at some length, Gerry is set to accept messages from any source, subscriber or not. Viable alternatives to this have been offered by a few people on the list, myself included, but our suggestions fell on deaf, or uninterested, ears. =David-M (dmc@CYBURBAN.COM) said on the date of 3/17/01 2:32 PM >> >>I am on 5 vw lists, and this is the only one with Spam. There has to be a >>filter for it, or I would be getting it from everywhere. >> >>I'm on 3 VW lists and 2 Mac lists, and have to report the same. Mind, >one >>of the Mac lists passes along corrupted messages. > >You can easily filter SPAM, the difficulty is not removing valid >messages along with it. That is what you will never know about the other >lists. Filtering is done based on certain keywords but there is always a >chance that a good message will contain the same keywords. >For instance, a valid message that someone is giving away FREE Vanagon >parts might be excluded bacuse of the word FREE. _________________________________________________________ Bob O'Shaughnessy, Columbus, OH vanagon@columbus.rr.com 99 A3 Jetta TDI 85GL with basic Westy interior 74 Bus (Dad's) 72 Wife, 94 Rabbit, 95 Cat, 96 cat, 98 Kid 11/06/00 Kid! 52 House ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 15:34:19 -0800 Reply-To: Dana Morphew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dana Morphew Organization: Dana's Mobile Carpet Steam Subject: Re: I-4 conversion Comments: To: dawn MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit That is a large question, Darrel. What have you gathered together in the way of conversion parts beside the Golf? Which Vanagon do you have? Have you removed the engine and peripherals from the Vanagon? -Dana- > > Is there anyone on the list that can tell me more about the i4 > conversion cost labor things that is envoved > I have a donor car that was t-boned 87 golf. what am i looking at ? > Darrel ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 17:42:28 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Friday Question - Squarebacks (little Vanagon content) Comments: To: Donna Stewart MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Donna Stewart wrote: > Any advice/what to look for on a 1971 Squareback? Hopefully I'll be looking at one over the weekend (probably driving my Vanagon to see it!) I've always admired these but know little about them. TIA, > > Donna & Lola-Lola (1987 Wolfsburg) Have had some interesting trips in squarebacks. About 20 years ago my wife and I and another couple used to drive from Chicago down to Key West each Christmas time. Two people driving, two sleeping in the back while driving straight thru during the night. On the trip back we weren't usually in such a hurry, coming north to the cold weather again. Might be worth checking the brakes. The pistons in the front calipers would rust and seize up. It usually took a large pry bar and lots of hammering and cursing to free them up. For some reason air would also get into the brake system during cold weather. Bleeding brakes is another fun family activity. People find it hard to believe that VW put fuel injection in the 311 back in '68. Have fun, Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 16:52:29 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Friday Question - Squarebacks (little Vanagon content) Comments: To: Larry Alofs I used to own a '68 Squareback, and loved it. It could have been a Jeep, for all the places it would go. The FI was quite reliable, too. I finally drove it into the ground and it went away. I'd like to have it back! Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Alofs" To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 4:42 PM Subject: Re: Friday Question - Squarebacks (little Vanagon content) > Donna Stewart wrote: > > > Any advice/what to look for on a 1971 Squareback? Hopefully I'll be looking at one over the weekend (probably driving my Vanagon to see it!) I've always admired these but know little about them. TIA, > > > > Donna & Lola-Lola (1987 Wolfsburg) > > Have had some interesting trips in squarebacks. About 20 years ago my wife and I and another couple used to drive from Chicago down to Key West each Christmas time. Two people driving, two sleeping in the > back while driving straight thru during the night. On the trip back we weren't usually in such a hurry, coming north to the cold weather again. > > Might be worth checking the brakes. The pistons in the front calipers would rust and seize up. It usually took a large pry bar and lots of hammering and cursing to free them up. For some reason air would > also get into the brake system during cold weather. Bleeding brakes is another fun family activity. > People find it hard to believe that VW put fuel injection in the 311 back in '68. > Have fun, > Larry A. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 16:01:40 -0800 Reply-To: George Wietor Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: George Wietor Subject: Re: Rear Bearing Help and bulb Comments: To: Jere Hawn In-Reply-To: <3ABBDF40.A0247F56@earthlink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi: You need a fluorescent light. Sears has them. Also the home supply and discount stores. Under $20 on sale. Really happy with mine. Some are dual 12/120 volt. Sorry, haven't done my bearings yet.George --- Jere Hawn wrote: > Hi all, > > Today's project was going to be the left rear > bearings, both inner and > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:05:31 -0600 Reply-To: Holly and Chris Mills Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Holly and Chris Mills Subject: Re-webbing seatbelts - reponse summary MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=us-ascii Got about 5 responses from 3 lists. One referred my to a British company advertising in Hemming Motor News. They didn't know the name or any info. Worth checking though. Also heard from several folks on the Corvair list how gave glowing reports on a TX company that does this --- Ssnake Oyl at 800-284-7777 and http://www.ssnake-oyl.com Don't know anything about them personally yet. Will be checking. I have plenty of seatbelt hardware gathered over the years but I doubt the reliability of any of the belts themselves - I'm sure the retractors are fine. In my case I'm trying to get my 1978 VW Westfalia back on the road. The aftermarket seems to offer plenty of plain belts - lap and shoulder combos but I've seen very, very few with retractors. I just want the OEM style hardware so it fits the first time but I want my family to be safe. http://mypage.ihost.com/usinet.cchesle/ This is another address to check. I'm still looking for more sources so if you can offer any more info please write. Hope this helps somebody. Chris in Mid-TN ICQ# 5944649 1978 Volkswagen Westfalia (almost done, Rolls-Hardly Engine) 1965 VW Beetle with a Type IV power (perpetual project) 1949 Chevy 3100 p/u (daily driver) 1999 Honda CR-V (wife's ride) 1981 Honda CB900 Custom moto-sickle (other daily driver) 1972 Hodaka Wombat (FOR SALE) (needs new home) 1997 Wife named Holly 2000 model son named Zane several used felines (2 shiny black, one in primer) Use the contents of this message at your own risk. Reproduction is allowed with reference to me, the author -- if and only if you can verify the information contained within is correct. If you find that the information is flawed, in poor taste, incorrect, evidence of mental treatment required, or if the statement/question was just plain dumb - you don't know me... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:12:53 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: 1990 GL Camper For Sale - Santa Barbara Comments: To: jmiller@SILCOM.COM In-Reply-To: Jon Miller 's message of Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:42:59 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Marital Issues? Trade in the issue----keep the Westy!! ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 17:11:13 -0800 Reply-To: Chris Radcliffe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Radcliffe Subject: Re: 1990 GL Camper For Sale - Santa Barbara Comments: cc: darcyrad@yahoo.com, lesl40@netgate.net In-Reply-To: <22632-3ABD3805-2393@storefull-137.iap.bryant.webtv.net> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit My Westy AC is on its way this very day to Damian Shaw in Utah. Clearly Damian has an amazingly VW-supportive wife, for him to take on that project. It's possible, friends... Chris Radcliffe chrisr@slip.net '90 Westy Auto "Blue Whale" CR -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Terry Kay Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 4:13 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: 1990 GL Camper For Sale - Santa Barbara Marital Issues? Trade in the issue----keep the Westy!! ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Jon Miller Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 1:43 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 1990 GL Camper For Sale - Santa Barbara Hello Vanagon people. I am selling my 90 GL Camper, Pearl. She has lived her whole life in Santa Barbara and has been driven 155K miles mostly by my wife on her trips up and down the state. The top side is totally clean, no rust, no dings, with a new CD player even. The bottom side is totally rebuilt (my wife wasn't too good on regular maintenance) - new engine, new shocks, new radiator & hoses, new brakes and more all done by Cory Motors in Santa Barbara at 153K miles last June. A new transmission was put in at 135K miles by McNevin Cadillac & Volkswagen in Berkeley. The price is $15,500. It's worth a lot more, I rebuilt it expecting to keep it but marital issues have caused a change in plans. Jon Miller (805)564-3119 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:10:35 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Sullivan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Sullivan Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C0B4C8.65706EE0" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B4C8.65706EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dear List, Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the body. You can see the two images here: http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ Looking forward to your comments! Michael J. Sullivan ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B4C8.65706EE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Dear=20 List,
 
Sunny is = now sporting=20 South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two = sets, one of=20 which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My = wife=20 really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me = which=20 version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the=20 body.
 
You can see = the two=20 images here:
   http://www.= haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/=
 
Looking = forward to your=20 comments!
 
Michael J. = Sullivan
------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B4C8.65706EE0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 17:13:04 -0800 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Re: Fwd: RE: VDO Oil Pressure sender specs Comments: To: macmillan@home.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed That's interesting, since, as you saw, the VDO company themselves claim 7 psi. I felt pretty good about that, but now, once again, I'm back at the drawing board. The BusBoys must be a bunch of YAHOOs since I order my relief valve spring on the 16th with them telling me it would go out that day. Here it is the 24th and I ain't got sh*t. Both the Depot and those busboys are real let-downs lately in customer service. Anyway, soon as I replace that part, I'll decide what I'm doing with the engine. Brian >From: Stuart MacMillan >To: Brian Cochran >CC: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: Fwd: RE: VDO Oil Pressure sender specs >Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:52:31 -0800 > >Unfortunately, I actually tested my VDO dual sender on the engine I blew >up. The red light came on at about 3 psi, the same as the switch did. >Perhaps they make different versions of senders, I can't explain the >discrepancy. You can rig up some fittings and tubing to hook up a >manual gauge where the sender connects if you want to test it. > >I really doubt that your gauge is wrong, and your readings are exactly >what I had on my engine before I threw a rod. 20 psi at speed is not >good, there should be a minimum of 10 psi per 1000 rpm, or 30 psi at >speed, 9-10 at idle. When mine dropped to 15-18 at speed the rod went >within a few hundred miles and destroyed the engine. > >Rebuild the engine while you still have one to rebuild! I paid the >ultimate price for the denial you now have. > >Stuart _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:49:22 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Schreeching Alternator/belt Comments: To: stebbins@aucegypt.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 12:29:16 PM, stebbins@AUCEGYPT.EDU writes: << Does this mean that the alternator is about to give out, or is it just a recalcitrant belt and pulley, or should I tighten the belt??? >> Malcolm, You might have an alternator with a hinky bearing or, if it is the same intermittent screech I once heard, it is the H2O pump impeller doing some impromptu milling of the engine case. Check the condition of the H2O pump. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:51:41 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/24/01 12:41:11 PM, CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes: << What a stupid idea the guy had that designed that gizmo. Now I can remove the cover at will. >> Terry, And now, following your lead, I can put mine back on. Thanks, Rich ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:00:18 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B49D.0D0A0700" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B49D.0D0A0700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jean and I prefer the black. Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Michael Sullivan=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 7:10 PM Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Dear List, =20 Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. = In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match = Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd = ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard = black or painted to match the body. =20 You can see the two images here:=20 http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ =20 Looking forward to your comments! =20 Michael J. Sullivan ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B49D.0D0A0700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jean and I prefer the black.
 
Dave in KC
85 Westy
http://members.fortune= city.com/davebaker1
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Michael=20 Sullivan
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 = 7:10=20 PM
Subject: Help me choose Sunny's = grill=20 style!

Dear=20 List,
 
Sunny is = now sporting=20 South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two = sets, one=20 of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. = My wife=20 really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell = me which=20 version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the=20 body.
 
You can = see the two=20 images here:
   http://www.h= aywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/
 
Looking = forward to=20 your comments!
 
Michael J.=20 Sullivan
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0B49D.0D0A0700-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:01:21 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: Rebuilt Auto Transmission Source? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Those are good trannies. Try to steamclean exterior to determine the source of the leak, most likely some rubber seal or gasket. When you drive it spreads all over, picks up the dirt and hard to find. By now all seals should be replaced. Don't replace tranny just because it is old. Good luck Leon 85 Subwagen Westy "W. Silva" wrote: > I guess we need to get our '85 Westy's automatic transmission rebuilt, it > has 240,000 miles on it and is leaking ATF from the vent (?) hole. Just > where it is initially coming from is hard to tell but in any event we should > probably start thinking about either buying a rebuilt, the whole sootin' > match, or having this one rebuilt. There are no transmissions shops that are > any good around here and the VW dealership has no clue (does that come as a > surprise to anyone?). > > I'm hoping to get some insight into the leaking before having to shell out > allot of bucks so anyone with some knowledge on the subject, please pass it > on. > > Thanks in advance > > John & Wendy > Cape Cod, MA > > '85 Westfalia "S-Cape" > '98 Passat "The Doo-Dah Machine" > > CAMPERS ON CAPE COD > A LiMBO sponsored VW camping event in September ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 21:12:29 EST Reply-To: Sersote@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Paul M. Hillbish" Subject: Fwd: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I forgot to send it to the list. Sorry. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 19:21:48 MST Reply-To: Al Ferguson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Al Ferguson Subject: Cooling question Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have an 89 Carat and a cooling question... It seems to run a bit on the hot side lately - almost in the hot zone. Yesterday I was driving it and the water flasher light started blinking indicating that the pressured reservoir was low. I stopped to check the non-pressured reservoir (under the Lic. plate) and noted it was full and = the coolant in there was cold but indeed the pressured reservoir was low? Wha= t I am wondering is why the pressured reservoir is not sucking the fluid out = of the non-pressured reservoir? I have replaced the radiator pressured reser= voir cap with two different new units thinking this was the problem - but the system still does not sucking the antifreeze/water from the non-pressured= reservoir to fill the system as needed. = Any Ideas what is happening? ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:27:28 -0800 Reply-To: Larry Innes Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Innes Subject: Re: auto trans -> manual trans conversion? Comments: To: JordanVw@aol.com In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" At 1:22 PM -0500 3/24/01, JordanVw@aol.com is rumored to have typed: >and then in a year or so youll be back in the same boat when your manual >tranny develops a crack in the 3/4 gear slider hub (as they all do, sooner or >later). >the auto trannys are more relaiable than the vanual trannys on the wbx >vanagons.. >chris Yeah, that seems to be the emerging consensus. Thanks. -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- Larry Innes Victoria, BC CANADA 87 Westfalia GL "Blu" -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:29:18 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: Vanagon Travel photos and trip reports Comments: To: harald_nancy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wow! What a great site. You've had some wonderful VW adventures, for sure. Thanks for sharing with the list. Dave in KC 85 Westy (still with no brake lights) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message ----- From: harald_nancy To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 1:15 PM Subject: Vanagon Travel photos and trip reports > Hi volks, > If you like to do some armchair vanagon > touring, take a look at our new website at > http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/ > > There are lots of photos and trip reports about > places we've traveled with our vanagon westy. > Also my technical notes about auxiliary battery > systems, poptop rain cover, and my favorite - > the vented platinum catalytic heater, with photos. > Please let us know if there are any problems downloading, and if the website > works ok. Thanks. > See you. > Harald and Nancy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 22:17:48 EST Reply-To: John2M@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "John M. Moore" Subject: Tranny cooler hoses MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Has anybody replaced the tranny cooler hoses by themselves? Is it possible? What problems are there in doing so? I have an 84 Westy automatic w/1.9l engine. The hoses are fluid soaked and very soggy feeling to the touch. Is there also a filter somewhere in there too? John Moore Tucson, AZ 84 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 19:19:12 -0800 Reply-To: "Scott G. Terry" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Scott G. Terry" Subject: name conflict in Santa Barbara Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:42:59 -0800 >From: Jon Miller >Subject: 1990 GL Camper For Sale - Santa Barbara > >Hello Vanagon people. I am selling my 90 GL Camper, Pearl. She has >lived her whole life in Santa Barbara and has been driven 155K miles >mostly by my wife on her trips up and down the state. Wow! I must have re-read those two sentences 5 times in disbelief. We named ours because of her pearlescent white repaint. Hard to believe there's two Pearls in the same town. Scott Terry '85 Westy "Pearl" Santa Barbara, CA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 21:41:06 -0600 Reply-To: Steve Sandlin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Sandlin Subject: Re: Tranny cooling hoses Comments: cc: John2M@AOL.com I replaced mine when I did some transmission work. Just used standard heater hose. It's just coolant flowing through there. There is a transmission filter, access is by removing pan. Steve Sandlin Steve's Lock Shoppe http://www.steveslockshop.com '84 Wolfsburg Westy '79 Transporter '00 New Beetle ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 23:17:12 -0500 Reply-To: jhlauterbach Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: jhlauterbach Subject: Re: Cooling question Comments: To: Al Ferguson MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Al, if there is too much air in the system (e.g., incorrectly bled, but everything else ok), coolant gets pushed into overflow tank. However, there is not enough contraction of the liquid in the cooling system proper to suck the fluid from the overflow tank back into the expansion tank. My local shop had a new tech work on my van this week, and he didn't get enough air out of the system. I have same problem. John Lauterbach Macon, GA '84 DL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Ferguson" To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 9:21 PM Subject: Cooling question I have an 89 Carat and a cooling question... It seems to run a bit on the hot side lately - almost in the hot zone. Yesterday I was driving it and the water flasher light started blinking indicating that the pressured reservoir was low. I stopped to check the non-pressured reservoir (under the Lic. plate) and noted it was full and the coolant in there was cold but indeed the pressured reservoir was low? What I am wondering is why the pressured reservoir is not sucking the fluid out of the non-pressured reservoir? I have replaced the radiator pressured reservoir cap with two different new units thinking this was the problem - but the system still does not sucking the antifreeze/water from the non-pressured reservoir to fill the system as needed. Any Ideas what is happening? ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 23:14:34 -0500 Reply-To: sevenkevin@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Hayden Subject: Help! My Vanagon Won't Vanna Go! Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hi There!! :-) I need some major help! My 1985 1.9L Vanagon died on me while entering the on-ramp for the highway. I couldn't get it started and had to have it towed home. I noticed that one of the spark plug wires had popped off the distributor cap but after replacing it, it still would only turn over--not start. It was not getting spark, so I removed the hall type distributor and replaced it with a breaker point one and hooked it up directly to the MSD 6A unit. Now I have spark but no gas seems to enter the cylinders. When removing the breather hose that goes into the fuel injection unit, I sprayed some starting fluid in and I got it to run for a few seconds. There is a metal T fitting with a bleeder screw that I broke loose and gas does come out. I did this by jumping the ECU connector as instructed in the manual. Any help, suggestions or information would be greatly appreciated since I'm new to owning a Vanagon and no mechanic around this area has a clue on what to do with it. Thanks for taking the time to read my posting and Have A GREAT Night!! Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 22:42:14 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I really like that yellow grill. I wonder what it would look like if the lower grill were also yellow! John Rodgers 88 GL Driver > Michael Sullivan wrote: > > Dear List, > > Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. > In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to > match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I > thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU > like: standard black or painted to match the body. > > You can see the two images here: > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > > Looking forward to your comments! > > Michael J. Sullivan ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:44:53 -0800 Reply-To: t Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: t Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Damn! Tough call... I really like the black, and I like the Euro styling of the yellow... Ok, OK,... Black.. and what's the paint code on that yeller paint. Pretty sharp (and you won't lose it in a parking lot) tim o'brien John Rodgers wrote: > > I really like that yellow grill. I wonder what it would look like if the > lower grill were also yellow! > > John Rodgers > 88 GL Driver > > > Michael Sullivan wrote: > > > > Dear List, > > > > Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. > > In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to > > match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I > > thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU > > like: standard black or painted to match the body. > > > > You can see the two images here: > > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > > > > Looking forward to your comments! > > > > Michael J. Sullivan ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 22:03:44 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Help! My Vanagon Won't Vanna Go! Comments: To: sevenkevin@WEBTV.NET I believe it's the Hall unit that triggers the injectors. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Hayden" To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 9:14 PM Subject: Help! My Vanagon Won't Vanna Go! > Hi There!! :-) > > I need some major help! My 1985 1.9L Vanagon died on me while entering > the on-ramp for the highway. I couldn't get it started and had to have > it towed home. I noticed that one of the spark plug wires had popped > off the distributor cap but after replacing it, it still would only > turn over--not start. It was not getting spark, so I removed the hall > type distributor and replaced it with a breaker point one and hooked it > up directly to the MSD 6A unit. Now I have spark but no gas seems to > enter the cylinders. When removing the breather hose that goes into the > fuel injection unit, I sprayed some starting fluid in and I got it to > run for a few seconds. There is a metal T fitting with a bleeder screw > that I broke loose and gas does come out. I did this by jumping the ECU > connector as instructed in the manual. Any help, suggestions or > information would be greatly appreciated since I'm new to owning a > Vanagon and no mechanic around this area has a clue on what to do with > it. Thanks for taking the time to read my posting and Have A GREAT > Night!! > > Kevin > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 22:09:09 -0700 Reply-To: DrCory Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: DrCory Subject: http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Micheal: I vote for the Yellow grill. And paint the lower grill yellow too. Cory =============================== Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! > >Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In >fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's >Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list >to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard black or painted to >match the body. >Michael J. Sullivan ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 21:39:08 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I once got very frustrated and got hacksaw and cut the bottom of the stupid cover to remove it. On a second go around i removed the front wall(4 screws) and bent the frame forward enough to pull the cover forward and then up. I succeded to get it out but was not impressed with engineering of it. But there are plenty of other examples of such "great german engineering" in Vanagon so i will not get into it right now... Leon 85 Subwagen Westy =David-M= wrote: > I'm trying to replace a burst coolant hose that goes to the rear heater. > How do I get to the rear heater? I lifted up the rear bench seat and > removed the six screws I found. Stupidly, I thought I'd be able to lift > off the shroud. But no, the shroud encircles the outlet so that it still > cannot be lifted off. > Do I have to remove the rear seat baseboard? Or, is there someway to > pull off the plastic outlet vent? > Neither the Bentley or Haynes manuals give any help other than showing > exactly the same picture of it with the shroud already removed. > Help! I ned to get my van back on the road asap. > > PS. Since I am now in Arizona, do I even need this auxiliary heater? Is > there any way to bypass it? > > - David 1987 Wolfsburg ("The Bismarck" currently renamed the $%&#!@*) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 23:48:22 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Rico Sapolich 's message of Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:51:41 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Rich, The key word in life is "Simplicity". I just for the life of me can't figure why anyone would cage the heater cover, around the rear outlet. And sometimes things do get a bit butchered when trying to get access to an inaccessible area, but in this instance I believe that no structural harm is done. I'll try anything once ( almost anything ) :>) Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 23:56:01 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Tranny cooler hoses Comments: To: John2M@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: "John M. Moore" 's message of Sat, 24 Mar 2001 22:17:48 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit John, No filter, just the cooler, above the front motor mount. Not really difficult to change the hoses. Be sure to get some hose pinching clamps to limit the coolant loss. The filter screen is in the inside of the trans., under the pan. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 03:33:10 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Vickey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Vickey Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? (great idea!!) When I replaced the rear heater core on my 91 Carat, I used a Dremel Tool to make the same cuts in the plastic cover you did. Westfalias are easier - the cover is made of plywood and comes out by removing a few phillips-head screws. Michael Vickey 87 GL Syncro 90 Transporter DoubleCab Pickup 90 Westfalia Camper - For Sale: http://www.velocity.net/~vickrail/moshevw.htm 91 Westfalia Syncro GL Camper 93 Eurovan MV 99 Rialta HD On Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:28:15 EST, JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote: >In a message dated 3/24/01 12:41:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, >CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes: > > >> Here is what I did, and it took all of 5 minutes. >> I removed the front of the seatbase (4 screws) and took my die grinder, >> with a small cutting bit, and cut the stupid piece that goes under the >> vent, off. >good idea!! alot easier than removing the damn seat :<) >thanks >chris > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 22:26:24 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I like em both, but if I had to choose I'd go with the yellow. Damn... that is one good looking bus! Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ----- Original Message ----- From: t To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 6:44 PM Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! > Damn! Tough call... I really like the black, and I like the Euro styling > of the yellow... > > Ok, OK,... > > Black.. and what's the paint code on that yeller paint. Pretty sharp > (and you won't lose it in a parking lot) > > tim o'brien > > John Rodgers wrote: > > > > I really like that yellow grill. I wonder what it would look like if the > > lower grill were also yellow! > > > > John Rodgers > > 88 GL Driver > > > > > Michael Sullivan wrote: > > > > > > Dear List, > > > > > > Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. > > > In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to > > > match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I > > > thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU > > > like: standard black or painted to match the body. > > > > > > You can see the two images here: > > > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > > > > > > Looking forward to your comments! > > > > > > Michael J. Sullivan > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 01:19:49 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Friday Question - Squarebacks (little Vanagon content) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Any advice/what to look for on a 1971 Squareback? < In 1979, my ex and I bought a brand new Dasher Diesel Station Wagon. The payments were $205/month and after about six months it became painfully obvious that we were in over our heads. So we sold the Dasher to a guy who took over the payments and gave us his 1973 squareback. Now I've heard others say that the squarebacks were not very good cars, but that little car we affectionately called "Blue" just ran and ran and ran. I loved it. Had very few repairs... just the basic oil changes and tune ups.... had a few other minor things go wrong, but I can't even remember what they were. We owned that car for five years. Now I must say that within a month or two of selling it, the new owner informed my ex (she sold it) that she had died. We were saddened by the news, but knew that she had served us well. In the "For What It's Worth" department. Since then I've owned one loaf and three vanagons (obligatory vanagon content), and I've loved them all. Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:21:09 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth Madsen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth Madsen Subject: Re: auto trans -> manual trans conversion? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi all , Chris - back finally after a long absence from the list. Nice to see some of the older list members still present. Correct me if I'm wrong - but I thought I read somewhere on a listmember's website that VW manufactured a revised version of the 3/4 syncro gear to with-stand greater stress... Ken Madsen '87GL -----Original Message----- From: JordanVw@AOL.COM [mailto:JordanVw@AOL.COM] Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 1:23 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: auto trans -> manual trans conversion? In a message dated 3/24/01 1:19:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, linnes@INNU.CA writes: I'm in the same boat as a couple of you...I've got a leaky auto tranny in my 85 GL Westy, which also is getting wonky in the shift from 2nd into 3rd. Expert advice here is to replace it, which is a $1500 CDN proposition for a rebuilt one. and then in a year or so youll be back in the same boat when your manual tranny develops a crack in the 3/4 gear slider hub (as they all do, sooner or later). the auto trannys are more relaiable than the vanual trannys on the wbx vanagons.. chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 05:27:44 -0800 Reply-To: Dana Morphew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dana Morphew Organization: Dana's Mobile Carpet Steam Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Michael, either way it's beautiful. I keep honeybees (Itallians), so I'm partial to the black. -Dana- Michael Sullivan wrote: > > Part 1.1Type: Plain Text (text/plain) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 14:31:37 +0100 Reply-To: Jim Grant Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Grant Subject: 14" vs 15" Wheels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B538.4C641F80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B538.4C641F80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am due to change tyres sortly on my 85 European Spec.1915. Can anyone = point me in the direction of valid information re change fro 14" to 15" = wheels. Since we can no longer buy 5 stud 14" alloys or decent steels in = the UK, I reckon I will be force to move to 15". This must obviously = affect gearing, consumption,etc. (yes we pay $5.40 a gallon here) so = would like some info before making the move. Jimsdub ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B538.4C641F80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am due to change tyres sortly on my = 85 European=20 Spec.1915. Can anyone point me in the direction of valid information re = change=20 fro 14" to 15" wheels. Since we can no longer buy 5 stud 14" alloys or = decent=20 steels in the UK, I reckon I will be force to move to 15". This must = obviously=20 affect gearing, consumption,etc. (yes we pay $5.40 a gallon here) so = would like=20 some info before making the move.
 
Jimsdub
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B538.4C641F80-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:16:01 -0500 Reply-To: Gary Stearns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary Stearns Subject: Re: Help! How get to rear heater? MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Been there done that. We cut the bottom off of the heater cover years ago for the same reason. I actually think that I stole a paring knife from the kitchen, heated it over a torch an just cut away. Can't remember if I removed the baseboard or not. No problems to date. We also bypassed the heater core for awhile. I think I used a pre-curved piece of electrical conduit. Any metal tubing should work if sized correctly. Just be sure that the hoses are clamped on well. A hose popping off in that location could be dangerous. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "=David-M=" To: Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 1:13 PM Subject: Help! How get to rear heater? > I'm trying to replace a burst coolant hose that goes to the rear heater. > How do I get to the rear heater? I lifted up the rear bench seat and > removed the six screws I found. Stupidly, I thought I'd be able to lift > off the shroud. But no, the shroud encircles the outlet so that it still > cannot be lifted off. > Do I have to remove the rear seat baseboard? Or, is there someway to > pull off the plastic outlet vent? > Neither the Bentley or Haynes manuals give any help other than showing > exactly the same picture of it with the shroud already removed. > Help! I ned to get my van back on the road asap. > > PS. Since I am now in Arizona, do I even need this auxiliary heater? Is > there any way to bypass it? > > - David 1987 Wolfsburg ("The Bismarck" currently renamed the $%&#!@*) > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:26:22 -0600 Reply-To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Subject: Re: Rear Bearing Help and bulb Comments: To: Jere Hawn In-Reply-To: <3ABBDF40.A0247F56@earthlink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When I did it, I unclipped the little spring things on the brakes and popped off the shoes. Then there's a few bolts or nuts (don't remember - was last year) to get the plate off that the brakes attach to so you can get to the bolts that hold the axle stub in place. That plate was kinda rust molded to the hub. Then I took out the bolts that hold the CV to the transmission, and pulled the whole axle stub/CV shaft assembly out the side. You could reach in and disconnect the CV shaft on the outer side, but that seemed like a lot bigger pain reaching in the housing to undo those CV bolts. Once it's out, then it wasn't too bad getting to the bearings - just don't muck up the threads where the axle nut goes. Good luck... Chris -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Jere Hawn Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 5:42 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Rear Bearing Help and bulb Hi all, Today's project was going to be the left rear bearings, both inner and outer. They have been making quite a ruckus for the past few weeks. I have started the project and have encountered a problem... how much do i need to take off and the sequence? Bentley isn't very clear on this, He does have a nice picture of a clean bearing housing. 1. Do i have to drop the CV joint? 2. Removing the bearing hub... do i leave all the rear break hardware attached? 3. does any have the line on drop light bulbs. I seem to be going through them like paper towels at the annual county bearing packing contest, just a simple nudge when it is hot and it goes out. Any ideas on this? TIA Jere 90 GL 88 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 06:30:20 -0800 Reply-To: Craig Spaeth Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Craig Spaeth Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I like the yellow, but I think if you go yellow you need to paint the lower grill yellow as well. If you are not going to do that I would go with black. looks cool, Craig the Gorge VW club gorgevwclub.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:49:36 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Lost/Hidden List Messages(little vanagon content) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Appealing to the membership for help. I run Netscape 4.7X and was saving a bunch of Vanagon List e-mail messages to re-read and perhaps store. I had a couple of problems with my computer and now the e-mail program no longer shows these old messages in my Inbox. The counter at the bottom of the screen says they are still there but they don't show on the monitor screen. Can't find any "Hide" button that I can "Un-hide" with. Has anyone got any ideas about this. Sure hate to think I have lost those permanently. Please reply off-list. Sorry for use of bandwidth for such trivia. TIA, John Rodgers 88 GL Driver ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:38:44 -0600 Reply-To: John Langowski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Langowski Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0B507.00DA9F20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0B507.00DA9F20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Go for the black one! Much sharper looking IMO. John=20 84 Westy ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0B507.00DA9F20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
Go for the black one! Much sharper looking = IMO.
 
John
84 Westy
------=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0B507.00DA9F20-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 06:53:57 -0800 Reply-To: Dana Morphew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dana Morphew Organization: Dana's Mobile Carpet Steam Subject: Re: auto trans -> manual trans conversion? Comments: To: Kenneth Madsen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, AA Transaxle and Weddle both say it was included sometime in '90. -Dana- Kenneth Madsen wrote: > > Hi all , Chris - back finally after a long absence from the list. Nice to > see some of the older list members still present. > > Correct me if I'm wrong - but I thought I read somewhere on a listmember's > website that VW manufactured a revised version of the 3/4 syncro gear to > with-stand greater stress... > > Ken Madsen > '87GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:02:30 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: 14" vs 15" Wheels Comments: To: Jim Grant MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim Grant wrote: > I am due to change tyres sortly on my 85 European Spec.1915. Can > anyone point me in the direction of valid information re change fro > 14" to 15" wheels. Since we can no longer buy 5 stud 14" alloys or > decent steels in the UK, I reckon I will be force to move to 15". This > must obviously affect gearing, consumption,etc. (yes we pay $5.40 a > gallon here) so would like some info before making the move. Jimsdub Overall diameter of the installed tire should be the important thing re gearing, speedometer, etc. Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:08:23 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Rear Bearing Help and bulb Comments: To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > 3. does any have the line on drop light bulbs. I seem to be going > through them like paper towels at the annual county bearing packing > contest, just a simple nudge when it is hot and it goes out. Any ideas > on this? > > TIA > > Jere > 90 GL > 88 GL You can buy heavy duty bulbs. Or better, get a fluorescent type of work lite. Spreads the light out more, less heat lasts a long time.. Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 14:46:04 -0500 Reply-To: =David-M= Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: =David-M= Organization: . Subject: yellow grille MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. > In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to > match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I > thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU > like: standard black or painted to match the body. > > You can see the two images here: > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > There is no question, the yellow grille looks much better. However, if you are into aesthetics, the front bumper has to go. The actual bumper looks good, but the thing sticking up in the middle is truly awful. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:35:34 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: yellow grille It works either way, but I think if your going to paint the one, you should paint the other, too. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "=David-M=" To: Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 12:46 PM Subject: yellow grille > > Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. > > In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to > > match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I > > thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU > > like: standard black or painted to match the body. > > > > You can see the two images here: > > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > > > There is no question, the yellow grille looks much better. > However, if you are into aesthetics, the front bumper has to go. > The actual bumper looks good, but the thing sticking up in the middle is > truly awful. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 10:45:05 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: spaeth@gorge.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_21.949ad0f.27ef6c81_boundary" --part1_21.949ad0f.27ef6c81_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hot pink with lime green polkadots would look much better!!! dont you all think? chris --part1_21.949ad0f.27ef6c81_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hot pink with lime green polkadots would look much better!!!  
dont you all think?

chris --part1_21.949ad0f.27ef6c81_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:46:52 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Fwd: Re: yellow grille MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit * ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:48:15 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: JordanVw@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 10:45:05 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Chris, I think you got an awful bad load of cannibus !!!:>) ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:57:33 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: yellow grille In-Reply-To: Terry Kay 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:46:52 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit I think that the monochromatic looks neat. And I agree with Karl, paint the bottom grill also. The grill guard looks OK, but the bumper looks clunky. Paint a stock bumper yellow, as well as the brush guard.--Kewl !! Where did the lower grill come from, with the lamps in it? Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:15:24 -0800 Reply-To: phil stanhope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: phil stanhope Subject: Tatra air cooled V8 conversion? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I met This wierd looking dude while he was looking at my westy in the health food store parking lot. He talked about how he was looking for a Westy to pull the wasser out and plant a Tatra air cooled v-8 in. I said "What about overheating?" He said No Problem, the Tatra v-8 exhaust pressure sucks in fresh air and directs it over engine Then he went on to tell me how the Germans stole ALL aircooled technology from the Czech's during WW2. Said Porsche, VW both stole designs from the Czech's I looked up this Tatra V-8 87. What a cool looking sled! Why would anyone rip a motor out of one of these rare beauties? Phil 84' all white Westfalia "Millenium Falcon" 84' all brown Rustfalia/Wolfy GL "Sh*thawk" 8100 AV PPC 100Mhz B+W G3 450 MHz 256mg ram __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:24:54 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_84.1345e015.27ef75d6_boundary" --part1_84.1345e015.27ef75d6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i may have a friend with a cd burner who would copy these and be willing to sell them. they include all the vw/audi dealer microfiche from way back to present, so all the vanagon stuff is on there, part numbers, pics etc.. he would like $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA let me know if you are interested chris --part1_84.1345e015.27ef75d6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i may have a friend with a cd burner who would copy these and be willing to
sell them.  they include all the vw/audi dealer microfiche from way back to
present, so all the vanagon stuff is on there, part numbers, pics etc..   he
would like $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA
let me know if you are interested

chris --part1_84.1345e015.27ef75d6_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:34:28 -0800 Reply-To: dawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dawn Subject: diesel parts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ok i have decides to go with this golf to vanagon deal the car will cost me a total of 500bucks does any of you guys have a list of what i will need from the diesel vanagon ? and does anyone have those parts that they would like to part with ?or does anyone know where i may get these parts? Darrel ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:24:00 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Mystery Box MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again, friends. I'm still working on the brake light problem with my 85 Westy. I pulled the control panel to get to the switch and measured the resistance ... It's around 2k ohms open and goes to 0 when I press the brake pedal. I don't like the open resistance, but it could be coming from the other parts of the circuit. (I'll check it later by removing the plug from the switch completely.) In any case, as I poked around amidst the mass of wires and cables, I came across a strange black box hanging from a tie wrap. It is labeled "OEM Replica Series Manual Transmission Electronic Module" and has a part number of 96-00-0342. I was unable to locate a manufacturer id. You can see a photo of it at the following url: http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/id27.htm Can anyone tell me what this device is? Thanks! Dave Baker 85 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:21:02 -0500 Reply-To: Tim McDermott Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tim McDermott Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: JordanVw@AOL.COM MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT $25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping would be a little more realistic. JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote: > i may have a friend with a cd burner who would copy these and be > willing to > sell them. they include all the vw/audi dealer microfiche from way > back to > present, so all the vanagon stuff is on there, part numbers, pics > etc.. he > would like $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA > let me know if you are interested > > chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:37:29 EST Reply-To: EdVF1000R@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Ed @ Automotive Consulting" Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_8.1218c3df.27ef86d9_boundary" --part1_8.1218c3df.27ef86d9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 03/25/2001 12:28:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, h2oboxer@OPTONLINE.NET writes: > > $25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping would be a little > more realistic. > Ever try to get a music CD for under $12 bucks? I think not! FYI by comparison, a 2001 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD goes for $150.00 . 25 bucks for this very useful information is cheap. Ever try to buy one of these retail? --part1_8.1218c3df.27ef86d9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 03/25/2001 12:28:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
h2oboxer@OPTONLINE.NET writes:



$25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping would be a little
more realistic.


Ever try to get a music CD for under $12 bucks? I think not!  FYI by
comparison, a 2001 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD goes for $150.00 .  25
bucks for this very useful information is cheap. Ever try to buy one of these
retail?



--part1_8.1218c3df.27ef86d9_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:47:09 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Volks: There are important developments in autobody technology that make it much simpler to do body repairs. Local Listees Jeff Palmer and I are attending a course on autobody repairs at a local High School. On our first class, we saw a video of this new adhesive technology that eliminated the need for the "welding on" of body panels during replacement. A company produces this two-part adhesive (various types for various applications) and the body panels are bonded together using this material. It is much safer for the technician (no fire potential or dangerous equipment) and is approved for use by the automakers. We saw a car (sedan) have it's roof R & R'd with this technique - it was very fast and much simpler than the previous alternative - the glass didn't even need to be removed! They then subsequently showed the car being rolled on a safety track, using the gov't's roll-sled. The roof did not collapse - and the bonding technology is now approved for use for this application by the gov't safety police. In any case, for simple replacement of body panels, it is much easier and cheaper than the old welding technology that we all know. This new technique is being taught at the school, and we personally saw vehicles that have had repairs done using this method. Excellent results! After I speak to Jeff, who wrote the company's name down, I'll provide the name of the company and their contact details. In Canada, the stuff costs about $45.00 for a large amount - enough for a major repair or replacement of a few panels. It's cheaper than a welder, that's for certain. Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy "Leader of the Pack" Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Founding Member of "Vanagons Anonymous" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:50:35 -0500 Reply-To: hexbus Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: hexbus Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read In-Reply-To: <84.1345e015.27ef75d6@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 11:24 AM 3/25/2001 -0500, you wrote: $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA Wow. Not much sense of community there, that's major profit making. Blank CDs cost anywhere from about nothing to around $.80, depending on quality. How about b&p (blanks and postage) like the (legitimate) music trading community does? Send the dude a self-addressed, pre-stamped mailer with the blank CD inside, all inside another mailer, it gets burned and returned to you. Hell, if someone gets me the original, I'll do unlimited discs for b&p. That's *free*. Or, why don't we do a tree to distribute these things? I'm a DAT taper/trader and CD trader, and it's horrifying that someone would want $25 to burn CDs. Outrageous. Unless I'm missing something. Kyle Fromm 89 Wolfsburg Carat/Weekender(?) - The Hexbus ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:01:56 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: was: Re: diesel parts - Now: what is needed for a Golf conversion? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know you need the following parts (but this is incomplete - others will contribute more): engine mounts bell-housing fuel injection system and associated controllers and sensors adaption plate? (Am I correct on this?) engine carrier?? Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy ( I am interested in this topic as well) ----- Original Message ----- From: "dawn" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 1:34 PM Subject: diesel parts > ok i have decides to go with this golf to vanagon deal the car will > cost me a total of 500bucks does any of you guys have a list of what > i will need from the diesel vanagon ? > and does anyone have those parts that they would like to part with ?or > does anyone know where i may get these parts? > Darrel ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 13:05:33 -0500 Reply-To: MF Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: MF Subject: yellow grill MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0B52C.4672EFE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0B52C.4672EFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I think the yellow would look best on a 2wd Carat type vehicle, more of = a euro/ street look. The black definately looks best for the agressive off road look. IMO Matt ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0B52C.4672EFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I think the yellow would look best on a = 2wd Carat=20 type vehicle, more of a euro/ street look.
The black definately looks best for the = agressive=20 off road look.  IMO
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0B52C.4672EFE0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:16:58 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: EdVF1000R@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0B525.7CE87380" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0B525.7CE87380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I got my ETKa from a philanthropic soul on the west coast for $8 = including postage. Funny how some folks value their volunteer labor. = Disks bought in bulk now are about .30 apiece, so it wouldn't take too = long to get yourself a free cd burner at those prices. Dimwitted moose and Flying Squirrel ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Ed @ Automotive Consulting=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:37 AM Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read In a message dated 03/25/2001 12:28:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 h2oboxer@OPTONLINE.NET writes:=20 $25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping would be a = little=20 more realistic.=20 Ever try to get a music CD for under $12 bucks? I think not! FYI by=20 comparison, a 2001 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD goes for $150.00 . = 25=20 bucks for this very useful information is cheap. Ever try to buy one = of these=20 retail?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0B525.7CE87380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I got my ETKa from a philanthropic soul = on the west=20 coast for $8 including postage.  Funny how some folks value their = volunteer=20 labor.  Disks bought in bulk now are about .30 apiece, so it = wouldn't take=20 too long to get yourself a free cd burner at those prices.
 
Dimwitted moose and Flying = Squirrel
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Ed @ = Automotive=20 Consulting
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 = 11:37=20 AM
Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... = interested?=20 read

In a = message dated=20 03/25/2001 12:28:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
h2oboxer@OPTONLINE.NET = writes:=20



$25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping = would be=20 a little
more realistic.


Ever try to get a=20 music CD for under $12 bucks? I think not!  FYI by =
comparison, a 2001=20 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD goes for $150.00 .  25
bucks = for this=20 very useful information is cheap. Ever try to buy one of these =
retail?=20



------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0B525.7CE87380-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 13:20:41 -0500 Reply-To: marty Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: marty Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm with you Kyle, I have a burner and I'm willing to make as many of these as the list wants for just the cost of shipping. I get 100 blank cd's for $25 and have a post office a 1/4 mile down the road. ----- Original Message ----- From: "hexbus" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 12:50 PM Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read > At 11:24 AM 3/25/2001 -0500, you wrote: > $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA > > Wow. Not much sense of community there, that's major profit making. Blank > CDs cost anywhere from about nothing to around $.80, depending on > quality. How about b&p (blanks and postage) like the (legitimate) music > trading community does? Send the dude a self-addressed, pre-stamped mailer > with the blank CD inside, all inside another mailer, it gets burned and > returned to you. > > Hell, if someone gets me the original, I'll do unlimited discs for > b&p. That's *free*. Or, why don't we do a tree to distribute these > things? I'm a DAT taper/trader and CD trader, and it's horrifying that > someone would want $25 to burn CDs. Outrageous. Unless I'm missing something. > > > Kyle Fromm > 89 Wolfsburg Carat/Weekender(?) - The Hexbus ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:20:39 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm curious as to what chemical composition this two part adhesive consists of. I'm no chemnical engineeer, but do deal with adhesives alot in my other hobby. Inquiring minds want to know. Vegetarian is an old Native American word for "can't hunt worth a damn" DM&FS ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall Ruskin" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:47 AM Subject: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels > Hi Volks: > > There are important developments in autobody technology that make it much > simpler to do body repairs. > > Local Listees Jeff Palmer and I are attending a course on autobody repairs > at a local High School. > > On our first class, we saw a video of this new adhesive technology that > eliminated the need for the "welding on" of body panels during replacement. > > A company produces this two-part adhesive (various types for various > applications) and the body panels are bonded together using this material. > > It is much safer for the technician (no fire potential or dangerous > equipment) and is approved for use by the automakers. > > We saw a car (sedan) have it's roof R & R'd with this technique - it was > very fast and much simpler than the previous alternative - the glass didn't > even need to be removed! > > They then subsequently showed the car being rolled on a safety track, using > the gov't's roll-sled. The roof did not collapse - and the bonding > technology is now approved for use for this application by the gov't safety > police. > > In any case, for simple replacement of body panels, it is much easier and > cheaper than the old welding technology that we all know. > > This new technique is being taught at the school, and we personally saw > vehicles that have had repairs done using this method. Excellent results! > > After I speak to Jeff, who wrote the company's name down, I'll provide the > name of the company and their contact details. > > In Canada, the stuff costs about $45.00 for a large amount - enough for a > major repair or replacement of a few panels. It's cheaper than a welder, > that's for certain. > > Marshall Ruskin > 84 Westy "Leader of the Pack" > Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada > Founding Member of "Vanagons Anonymous" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:38:09 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't know exactly. I recall that they did provide details at the beginning of the video. There are a range of formulations for the material - depending upon it's application - they have at least 20 products for different automotive repair jobs. What I will do is try and get a product fact sheet, or an address to one, and post it to the list. Marshall Ruskin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max/Joyce Wellhouse" To: "Marshall Ruskin" ; Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 12:20 PM Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels > I'm curious as to what chemical composition this two part adhesive consists > of. I'm no chemnical engineeer, but do deal with adhesives alot in my other > hobby. Inquiring minds want to know. > > > Vegetarian is an old Native American word for "can't hunt worth a damn" > > DM&FS > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Marshall Ruskin" > To: > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:47 AM > Subject: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels > > > > Hi Volks: > > > > There are important developments in autobody technology that make it much > > simpler to do body repairs. > > > > Local Listees Jeff Palmer and I are attending a course on autobody repairs > > at a local High School. > > > > On our first class, we saw a video of this new adhesive technology that > > eliminated the need for the "welding on" of body panels during > replacement. > > > > A company produces this two-part adhesive (various types for various > > applications) and the body panels are bonded together using this material. > > > > It is much safer for the technician (no fire potential or dangerous > > equipment) and is approved for use by the automakers. > > > > We saw a car (sedan) have it's roof R & R'd with this technique - it was > > very fast and much simpler than the previous alternative - the glass > didn't > > even need to be removed! > > > > They then subsequently showed the car being rolled on a safety track, > using > > the gov't's roll-sled. The roof did not collapse - and the bonding > > technology is now approved for use for this application by the gov't > safety > > police. > > > > In any case, for simple replacement of body panels, it is much easier and > > cheaper than the old welding technology that we all know. > > > > This new technique is being taught at the school, and we personally saw > > vehicles that have had repairs done using this method. Excellent results! > > > > After I speak to Jeff, who wrote the company's name down, I'll provide the > > name of the company and their contact details. > > > > In Canada, the stuff costs about $45.00 for a large amount - enough for a > > major repair or replacement of a few panels. It's cheaper than a welder, > > that's for certain. > > > > Marshall Ruskin > > 84 Westy "Leader of the Pack" > > Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada > > Founding Member of "Vanagons Anonymous" > > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 10:35:56 -0800 Reply-To: Jim Arnott Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Arnott Organization: WetWesties Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: JordanVw@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chris... Just remember that VW *does* monitor this list. Were I you, I would be expecting to get the "cease & desist" letter any day now. Also, since you're offering this copyrighted 'document' at a substantial profit (CD-Rs cost about $.95 in bulk.), you may also get a call from the feds for copyright violation. Watch your backside, my friend. Jim Arnott WetWesties Union,OR JordanVw@aol.com wrote: > > i may have a friend with a cd burner who would copy these and be > willing to > sell them. they include all the vw/audi dealer microfiche from way > back to > present, so all the vanagon stuff is on there, part numbers, pics > etc.. he > would like $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA > let me know if you are interested > > chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 13:38:38 -0500 Reply-To: hexbus Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: hexbus Subject: Re: ETKA CD tree In-Reply-To: <001401c0b558$4d09a0c0$11608318@mw.mediaone.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed OK, cool, there are two of us. We could give it another day, or two or three, to see how many people are willing to burn. Then have signups for about a week, divide people who want the CD up to the people who can burn, and go from there. The B&P method works nicely, because then the people burning don't have to go to the post office, affix stamps, affix mailing labels, anything like that. Those who want the CDs do a little bit extra BS with the self-addressed, pre-stamped mailer (postage is $.97 for one cd with sleeve, use stamps, not meter strips), they're the ones who run to the post office and fill out shit, not the burners. So, if you're burning, all you gotta do is throw away the outside mailer, pop the blank in your burner, put the finished CD in the pre-prepared mailer that's going out, and put 'em in your mailbox for the postman. No fiber mailers would be the other rule, you gotta use bubble mailers. If nobody else wants to run it, I will. There's me and Marty, so far. The missing ingredient is the original CD. :) Kyle Fromm 89 Wolfsburg Carat/Weekender(?) - Hexbus 84 Scirocco - Jibboo At 01:20 PM 3/25/2001 -0500, marty wrote: >I'm with you Kyle, I have a burner and I'm willing to make as many of these >as the list wants for just the cost of shipping. I get 100 blank cd's for >$25 and have a post office a 1/4 mile down the road. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:47:30 -0600 Reply-To: arbosch@RA.ROCKWELL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Alan Bosch Subject: Uh oh! Thread hijack!! Was: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii <<>> Vegetarian is an old Native American word for "can't hunt worth a damn"<<>> Along those lines... "Vegetables aren't food. Vegetables are what food eats" Alan Bosch & Phred ('88 Wolfsburg) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:51:43 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse I paid someone $10 for one, and then received another one about a week later from another listmember, gratis. I passed along one of them to someone who expressed an interest in one, gratis. Two points, here. I hate to bring up the issue again, but this is copyrighted information, and is the property of whoever owns the copyright. Perhaps the individual who is charging $25 each is factoring in some legal issues? ;-) Secondly, the guys up at Camelback really love the fact that I have the ETKA. When I call them, they simply tell me to look up page thus and such and we can have an intelligent conversation, instead of, "Well, it's the dojobber that looks kinda like a corkscrew that connects to the thingamabob that drives the whatsit." Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max/Joyce Wellhouse" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:16 AM Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read I got my ETKa from a philanthropic soul on the west coast for $8 including postage. Funny how some folks value their volunteer labor. Disks bought in bulk now are about .30 apiece, so it wouldn't take too long to get yourself a free cd burner at those prices. Dimwitted moose and Flying Squirrel ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed @ Automotive Consulting To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:37 AM Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read In a message dated 03/25/2001 12:28:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, h2oboxer@OPTONLINE.NET writes: $25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping would be a little more realistic. Ever try to get a music CD for under $12 bucks? I think not! FYI by comparison, a 2001 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD goes for $150.00 . 25 bucks for this very useful information is cheap. Ever try to buy one of these retail? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:55:35 -0600 Reply-To: Todd Cleveland Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Cleveland Subject: Diesel parts needed! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0B522.802CA960" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0B522.802CA960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi! I'm in the process of restoring my '82 diesel sunroof vanagon. It's = time for the engine and transmission. Contemplating the switch from 1.6 = n.a. and four speed stock, to a four speed air cooled trans, ( or a five = speed diesel trans) and a 1.6t.d. engine for longevity on the highway. Any advice from fellow "diesel drivers?" Anyone out there have a good = used transmission of either type, and/or a good or rebuildable 1.6t.d. = complete engine? Any advice or parts help greatly appreciated! Todd Cleveland ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0B522.802CA960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi!
 
I'm in the process of restoring my '82 = diesel=20 sunroof vanagon.  It's time for the engine and transmission. =20 Contemplating the switch from 1.6 n.a. and four speed stock, to a four = speed air=20 cooled trans, ( or a five speed diesel trans) and a 1.6t.d. engine for = longevity=20 on the highway.
 
Any advice from fellow "diesel = drivers?" Anyone out=20 there have a good used transmission of either type, and/or a good or = rebuildable=20 1.6t.d. complete engine?
 
Any advice or parts help greatly=20 appreciated!
 
Todd Cleveland
 
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0B522.802CA960-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:00:36 -0800 Reply-To: Craig Spaeth Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Craig Spaeth Subject: Re: ETKA Cd's MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The other problem with the ETKA CD's is you are selling something that you do not own. There are loads of copyright laws protecting it. It is one thing to distribute it to help and a bigger crime to profit from it. Either is illegal and you will probably get contacted by VW on this if you say too much. There have been others on the Audi lists who were asked (forced) in a very legal manner to stop selling these. just for your info, Craig the Gorge VW club gorgevwclub.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:36:12 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Subject: Bleed the coolant system... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00DF_01C0B51F.CB253200" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00DF_01C0B51F.CB253200 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I found something unacceptable in the Bentley manual. It starts to talk about bleeding the coolant system and stops in half = way when starts mentioning another way to do it. Now I am not certain = of either. This is on page 19.16 and just when explains the bleeder = screw's positions it ends there and starts explaining the other mode, = not finishing the first. Any sole out there knows? Maybe both? Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_00DF_01C0B51F.CB253200 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I found something unacceptable in the = Bentley=20 manual.
It starts to talk about bleeding the = coolant system=20 and stops in half way when starts mentioning another way to do it.  = Now I=20 am not certain of either.  This is on page 19.16 and just when = explains the=20 bleeder screw's positions it ends there and starts explaining the other = mode,=20 not finishing the first.
Any sole out there knows?  Maybe=20 both?
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_00DF_01C0B51F.CB253200-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:35:46 -0700 Reply-To: DrCory Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: DrCory Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Go with the Yellow, Paint the lower grill yellow too, sell me the left over grill! Cory ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:48:30 -0800 Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stuart MacMillan Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My '84 was repaired once with adhesives. The right "fender" and lower front panel were attached to each other by glue, and the front panel was completely attached by glue. The fender was welded at the A pillar and bottom. In the last minor collision I had with a honda that ran a stop sign, the joint between the two panels broke completely, and the lower panel lifted off at the bottom for about 1/3 its length. So, this leads me to two comments on this stuff: 1. It provides no structural strength, so can only be used on non structural panels, and I'd only use it where you can't get a welder in the area that needs welding because of number 2: 2. This makes further repair in the same area more difficult due to the necessity of completely removing the glued panels and replacing them when the glue joint fails. If the two sections had been welded, I could have pulled and worked out the damage, but with the failure of the glue the front panel has to be replaced, and with some difficulty. The estimate to repair this was over $1000. I've just slapped some paint over it and use the bra when I want the van to look pretty! This adhesive definitely has its place, but be very cautious how you use it. Stuart ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 14:00:12 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Brake Light Problem Found MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Never overlook the obvious! The wire running into the connector on the left rear tail light assembly is broken making an open circuit! Absolutely the easiest thing to check, but the last place I thought there would be a problem! Thanks for the encouragement. PS... Still waiting to hear from some of our list wizards who know what the mystery box is all about. Possibly related to the missing cruise control set up? Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:13:17 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: Yes Thurston, TRUUUUly awfull. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > > > You can see the two images here: > > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > > > There is no question, the yellow grille looks much better. > However, if you are into aesthetics, the front bumper has to go. > The actual bumper looks good, but the thing sticking up in the middle is > truly awful. > > Don't listen to Robin Leach here, that bumper kicks butt. It would be stupid to remove such a functional piece out of some misguided effort to make something look "refined" (excuse me, would you happen to have any cheap brown mustard?) . Form follows function, you now have both. Truly awful? Give thee a break. 2 cents please, mark... ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:30:16 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan In-Reply-To: <8061342765D7D4118FC100508B692F70010D90B6@newman.openmarket.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B527.58C918E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B527.58C918E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit The grille on my DoKa is painted white by the previous owner. After a few years of driving around like this I think I am going to put it back to black. The yellow does look good though - I know, I'm a big help! :) David Marshall Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 • Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions • Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales • European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Michael Sullivan Sent: March 24, 2001 5:11 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Dear List, Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the body. You can see the two images here: http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ Looking forward to your comments! Michael J. Sullivan ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B527.58C918E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The=20 grille on my DoKa is painted white by the previous owner.  After a = few=20 years of driving around like this I think I am going to put it back to=20 black.  The yellow does look good though - I know, I'm a big help!=20 :)
 


David Marshall

Fast Forward Autobahn Sport=20 Tuning
4356 Quesnel Hixon Road
Quesnel BC Canada  V2J = 6Z3
mailto:info@fastforward.ca &= nbsp;   =20 http://www.fastforward.ca &n= bsp;    
Phone:=20 (250) 992 7775           = FAX: (250)=20 992 1160

• Vanagon Accessories and Engine = Conversions  
•=20 Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales
• European Lighting for = most Audi and=20 Volkswagen models

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List=20 [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Michael=20 Sullivan
Sent: March 24, 2001 5:11 PM
To:=20 vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Help me choose Sunny's = grill=20 style!

Dear=20 List,
 
Sunny is = now sporting=20 South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two = sets, one=20 of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. = My wife=20 really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell = me which=20 version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the=20 body.
 
You can = see the two=20 images here:
   http://www.h= aywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/
 
Looking = forward to=20 your comments!
 
Michael J.=20 Sullivan
------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B527.58C918E0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 12:30:20 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: What is the most up-to-data ETKA out there? In-Reply-To: <84.1345e015.27ef75d6@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The European ETKA that I have goes to 1988 - is there anything more recent out there? BTW - When I was in Germany they did not use the ETKA system - instead they are patched in to Wolfsburg over a WAN... very nice! David Marshall Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 . Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions . Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales . European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:38:03 -0500 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: Tim McDermott You guys better keep it quiet about charging for that cd before the copyright police get ya, let alone vw. Adam Puzerewski 81 westy 74 beetle Vanagon Partsmobiles ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim McDermott" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 12:21 PM Subject: Re: [VANAGON] ETKA cd's ..... interested? read > $25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + shipping would be a little > more realistic. > > > JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote: > > > i may have a friend with a cd burner who would copy these and be > > willing to > > sell them. they include all the vw/audi dealer microfiche from way > > back to > > present, so all the vanagon stuff is on there, part numbers, pics > > etc.. he > > would like $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA > > let me know if you are interested > > > > chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:52:26 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Mystery Box Comments: To: Dave Baker In-Reply-To: <000701c0b550$61eff1e0$947c1a41@kc.rr.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 12:24 PM 3/25/2001, Dave Baker wrote: >In any case, as I poked around amidst the mass of wires and cables, I came >across a strange black box hanging from a tie wrap. It is labeled "OEM >Replica Series Manual Transmission Electronic Module" and has a part number >of 96-00-0342. I was unable to locate a manufacturer id. You can see a >photo of it at the following url: I'd imagine that it's the electronics for a cruise control. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 14:28:31 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Mages Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Mages Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: EdVF1000R@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <8.1218c3df.27ef86d9@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Distributing information and covering your expenses (your time and labor) Good Maximizing your profit off of someone else's labor Bad It's just highly unethical. I missed who the original poster was, but if that mentality is standard business practice for them I would avoid them like the plague. The guy who originally had the cd .iso file on his site for free distribution now has a very nice letter from Lex Comm telling him very nicely to remove the software or face prosecution. It is probably the most polite threat I have ever seen. --- "Ed @ Automotive Consulting" wrote: > In a message dated 03/25/2001 12:28:11 PM Eastern > Standard Time, > h2oboxer@OPTONLINE.NET writes: > > > > > > $25 is a little steep. I would think $10 + > shipping would be a little > > more realistic. > > > > Ever try to get a music CD for under $12 bucks? I > think not! FYI by > comparison, a 2001 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD > goes for $150.00 . 25 > bucks for this very useful information is cheap. > Ever try to buy one of these > retail? > > > > > ===== Mark Music is the soundtrack to the Low Budget B-movie that is my life. 87 Westfalia Gl 84 Scirocco 8v http://student.fortlewis.edu/~mwmages/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:46:41 -0500 Reply-To: starfree@WAM.CO.ZA Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: starfree@WAM.CO.ZA Subject: ADV ADLT: FREE Hot Hardcore PICTURES - No Credit Cards Needed - No Gimmicks Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ----------------------------------------------- This message is intended for adult audiences only. If you are not a legal adult or have no interest in adult content websites, please delete this message now and accept our apologies. For removal please reply to mailto:starfree2@wam.co.za with the subject"remove". ----------------------------------------------- FREE Hot Hardcore PICTURES - No Credit Cards Needed - No Gimmicks. Pretty Girls or Pretty Boys - YOUR CHOICE! ABSOLUTELY NO COST Unless You Want to Own The Very Best ADULT SEX TOYS from the Internet's LARGEST Super Sex Supermarket. And of course, the pictures are always free! WHY DO WE GIVE YOU FREE PICTURES? WE GIVE YOU FREE HARDCORE PICTURES So You Can See How Much Fun Our Sex Toys Can Be. And We Hope You'll Consider Buying Our Sex Toys To Help Support Our Girls & Boys and Keep the Free Pictures Cuming! Just Click on the link below TO GET YOUR FREE PICTURES and Have the Time of Your Life! http://sextoys.xxxsexgateway.com Thanks, Your Pretty Girls & Pretty Boys ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:45:59 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Mystery Box Comments: To: Dave Baker MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > In any case, as I poked around amidst the mass of wires and cables, I came > across a strange black box hanging from a tie wrap. It is labeled "OEM > Replica Series Manual Transmission Electronic Module" and has a part number > of 96-00-0342. I was unable to locate a manufacturer id. You can see a > photo of it at the following url: > > http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/id27.htm > > Can anyone tell me what this device is? > > Thanks! > > Dave Baker > 85 Westy Sure looks like the control module for the Cruise control servo that you found in the engine compartment. Great web-site. Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:50:27 -0500 Reply-To: Maynard Southard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maynard Southard Subject: Re: E T K A cd's In-Reply-To: <200103251800.f2PI0NG13071@mx04.gis.net> I've really struggled with this parts CD thing. I'd dearly love to have one, just so I could look up part numbers without bugging the local dealer (they never have the parts I need in stock anyway.) I would buy a legitimate new CD for as much as I have paid for a new Bentley, because I think I would use it as much, but it doesn't appear the publishers want us common folk to have access to this information. Why is that? As for bootleg copies, I understand the publishers have vigilantly pursued and shut down even those who have made them available free. I would imagine someone burning these at $25 a pop will attract their attention real fast. That said, I'd still love to have one. Is there a way to get an copy without incurring the wrath of copyright issues? Do the dealers discard the old versions when they get updates? Is bootlegging the only way for a true VW fanatic to get one? Maynard '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" '93 EV GL "Klinger" '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" > -----Original Message----- > Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:24:54 EST > From: JordanVw@AOL.COM > Subject: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read > > i may have a friend with a cd burner who would copy these and > be willing to > sell them. they include all the vw/audi dealer microfiche > from way back to > present, so all the vanagon stuff is on there, part numbers, > pics etc.. he > would like $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA > let me know if you are interested > > chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:54:12 -0500 Reply-To: "Carlen, Gregg" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Carlen, Gregg" Subject: Won't start when hot OR cold MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hey folks, I'm back on the list after being gone awhile. I have a problem with my 85 1.9l waterboxer Westy. I had the problem of 'won't start when hot' for quite awhile. It got worse and worse. Now its at the point where it won't start at all. ANY advice at this point would be helpful! I've tried everything I can think of. Here's what I've done so far: Checked and cleaned EVERY negative ground point I can find (including transmission grounding). Added 2 additional grounding straps to the system (one from the engine to chassis and one from tranny to chassis) Cleaned terminals of battery and cables Replaced the battery Tried the 'add-a-solenoid' trick described in the archives (since removed since it didn't make a difference and I figured why complicate the issue) Replaced the starter/solenoid Checked the alarm system contacts and function (aftermarket 'Hornet' alarm system) Checked every fuse and contact I could find under the dashboard Replaced the starter switch on the steering wheel column At point I could start the van only when the engine was cold. Then, I was only able to start the van when I tapped on the starter solenoid while my wife turned the ignition key. That deteriated in frequency, too. I was then only able to start the van with a jump start from my other car or the 'start' mode on my battery charger. Then it only would start with the jump start. Now, it won't start no matter what I do. My theory: I think I have an intermittent open ground somewhere that I can't find. I think it has deteriorated until it won't start now. Any advice? Anyone got a free evening or day during the weekend in the DC area (Oakton) that might be able to help by taking a look? I bought her in 1990 and its been great. It's got 202k on it (I rebuilt the engine at $125k), it survived the infamous blown head gasket problem and numerous other Vanagon common problems. Anyone that can help or advise, please let me know. I'm about fresh out of ideas. Thanks, Gregg Carlen 85 Westy (taking a rest from humans) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:52:50 -0500 Reply-To: Richard Golen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Richard Golen Subject: ENOUGH'S ENOUGH!!! WAS: ADV ADLT: FREE Hot Hardcore PICTURES - No Credit Cards Needed - No Gimmicks In-Reply-To: <452.875295.117493@mail.099.gorgie.fr> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Ok, what is it going to take to put a filter on the list?? Is this post enough?? Or shall we start a discussion of sex toys or perhaps our favorite hardcore porn??? There has been ample flak generated by non-vanagon topics posted to the list...how about a little flak when it comes to the list being solicited by porn-slime???? Somewhat outraged that the list is now being used to advertised porn, Ric At 05:46 PM 3/25/01 -0500, you wrote: >----------------------------------------------- >This message is intended for adult audiences >only. If you are not a legal adult or have no >interest in adult content websites, please >delete this message now and accept our >apologies. For removal please reply to >mailto:starfree2@wam.co.za >with the subject"remove". >----------------------------------------------- > >FREE Hot Hardcore PICTURES - No Credit Cards Needed - No Gimmicks. >Pretty Girls or Pretty Boys - YOUR CHOICE! > >ABSOLUTELY NO COST Unless You Want to Own The Very Best ADULT SEX TOYS >from the Internet's LARGEST Super Sex Supermarket. And of course, the >pictures are always free! > >WHY DO WE GIVE YOU FREE PICTURES? >WE GIVE YOU FREE HARDCORE PICTURES So You Can See How Much Fun Our Sex >Toys Can Be. >And We Hope You'll Consider Buying Our Sex Toys >To Help Support Our Girls & Boys and Keep the Free Pictures Cuming! > >Just Click on the link below TO GET YOUR FREE PICTURES and Have the Time >of Your Life! > >http://sextoys.xxxsexgateway.com > >Thanks, >Your Pretty Girls & Pretty Boys ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:13:05 EST Reply-To: TStone8359@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom Stone Subject: Re: was: Re: diesel parts - Now: what is needed for a Golf conversion? Comments: To: mjruskin@home.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_80.8a6fefc.27efd581_boundary" --part1_80.8a6fefc.27efd581_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/25/01 11:59:11 AM Central Standard Time, mjruskin@HOME.COM writes: > engine mounts > bell-housing > fuel injection system and associated controllers and sensors > adaption plate? (Am I correct on this?) > engine carrier?? > Add oil pan, oil pump from the diesel (longer pickup tube), dip stick, accelerator cable and pedal, exhaust manifold, down pipe, muffler from diesel, input shaft from trans (the diesel one is shorter), starter, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, coolant hoses, oil cooler and the long bolt that attaches it to the block, coolant expansion tank, and water pump. I haven't done the conversion yet but these are the parts that I have been told are needed. May be a few others. --part1_80.8a6fefc.27efd581_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/25/01 11:59:11 AM Central Standard Time,
mjruskin@HOME.COM writes:


engine mounts
bell-housing
fuel injection system and associated controllers and sensors
adaption plate? (Am I correct on this?)
engine carrier??


Add oil pan, oil pump from the diesel (longer pickup tube), dip stick,
accelerator cable and pedal, exhaust manifold, down pipe, muffler from
diesel, input shaft from trans (the diesel one is shorter), starter,
flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, coolant hoses, oil cooler and the long
bolt that attaches it to the block, coolant expansion tank, and water pump.  
I haven't done the conversion yet but these are the parts that I have been
told are needed.  May be a few others.    --part1_80.8a6fefc.27efd581_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:17:02 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Won't start when hot OR cold Comments: To: "Carlen, Gregg" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "Carlen, Gregg" wrote: > Hey folks, I'm back on the list after being gone awhile. I have a problem > with my 85 1.9l waterboxer Westy. I had the problem of 'won't start when > hot' for quite awhile. It got worse and worse. Now its at the point where it > won't start at all. ANY advice at this point would be helpful! I've tried > everything I can think of. Here's what I've done so far: > > Checked and cleaned EVERY negative ground point I can find (including > transmission grounding). > Added 2 additional grounding straps to the system (one from the engine to > chassis and one from tranny to chassis) > Cleaned terminals of battery and cables > Replaced the battery > Tried the 'add-a-solenoid' trick described in the archives (since removed > since it didn't make a difference and I figured why complicate the issue) > Replaced the starter/solenoid > Checked the alarm system contacts and function (aftermarket 'Hornet' alarm > system) > Checked every fuse and contact I could find under the dashboard > Replaced the starter switch on the steering wheel column > > At point I could start the van only when the engine was cold. Then, I was > only able to start the van when I tapped on the starter solenoid while my > wife turned the ignition key. That deteriated in frequency, too. I was then > only able to start the van with a jump start from my other car or the > 'start' mode on my battery charger. Then it only would start with the jump > start. Now, it won't start no matter what I do. > > My theory: I think I have an intermittent open ground somewhere that I can't > find. I think it has deteriorated until it won't start now. Any advice? > Anyone got a free evening or day during the weekend in the DC area (Oakton) > that might be able to help by taking a look? I bought her in 1990 and its > been great. It's got 202k on it (I rebuilt the engine at $125k), it survived > the infamous blown head gasket problem and numerous other Vanagon common > problems. Anyone that can help or advise, please let me know. I'm about > fresh out of ideas. > > Thanks, > > Gregg Carlen > 85 Westy (taking a rest from humans) I'm unclear about whether you replaced the starter itself or just the solenoid. I assume that there are no clicks or turning sounds at all from the starter area. If the starter is bad, the solenoid won't click because the ground path for the solenoid is thru the starter. Figure out a way to measure the voltage at the solenoid terminal that gets current from the ignition switch while you attempt to activate it. If that point reaches at least 10 or 12 volts while the body of the starter is close to 0 volts but the starter doesn't go, then the starter and/or solenoid must be bad. Larry A. been there ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 15:24:11 -0800 Reply-To: Pat Callaghan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Pat Callaghan Subject: Spam MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why are we getting spammed? This is getting bad. Pat Callaghan 82 Westy Portland, OR. http://www.users.qwest.net/~patcal ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:24:53 -0500 Reply-To: Maynard Southard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maynard Southard Subject: Re: vanagon Digest - 25 Mar 2001 - Special issue (#2001-367) In-Reply-To: <200103252239.RAA25286@mx05.gis.net> Todd: I believe Chris Turner (mailto:JordanVw@aol.com) has recently advertised an air-cooled tranny. If you can't find a used 1.6 TD, you might try Jack at VW Diesel Parts (http://www.vwdieselparts.com/). He has a good reputation and knows his VW diesels. His web site has lots of information and prices. Maynard '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" '93 EV GL "Klinger" '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" > -----Original Message----- > Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:55:35 -0600 > From: Todd Cleveland > Subject: Diesel parts needed! > > I'm in the process of restoring my '82 diesel sunroof vanagon. It's = > time for the engine and transmission. Contemplating the > switch from 1.6 = > n.a. and four speed stock, to a four speed air cooled trans, > ( or a five = > speed diesel trans) and a 1.6t.d. engine for longevity on the highway. > > Any advice from fellow "diesel drivers?" Anyone out there > have a good = > used transmission of either type, and/or a good or > rebuildable 1.6t.d. = > complete engine? > > Any advice or parts help greatly appreciated! > > Todd Cleveland tODD ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:49:37 -0700 Reply-To: Blake Thornton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Blake Thornton Subject: Head are done, rough idle MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Description of some of the work I did (rough idle question at the bottom): ------------------------------------------------------------------ Well, I finished putting on my head this morning and got it all wrapped up. Overall, I would say I am very pleased with the way it all come together. Mostly it was easier then I had thought it would be and I am happy I did it - until it starts leaking again next week :) I wrote up some of what I did and posted it. It not too complete, but it does have information on the amount of time I spent -- something I would have like to have known before I started. If you are interested, you can find this at: http://www.math.utah.edu/~thornton/vanagon/my-heads.shtml As for specifics, I had trouble following the directions for adjusting the lifters. I wasn't sure to turn the adjuting screws two full turns or one half a turn like some in the archives suggested. So, I took some liberty and turned them about a half a turn after they started getting tight. This made it between a half a turn to almost two turns for each adjusting screw. I hope I didn't screw it up by doing this. Any ideas???? The engine started right up and I put the coolant in as everyone suggests. I hadn't done this before (I'm lazy I guess) and I found this to be a miserable job. I slopped I ton of coolant on the ground and make a smoke screen as the coolant spilled on the exhaust pipes, but I think I got it done alright. The temperature level was ok when I drove it around. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now for my problem: It runs great, but the idle is quite rough. Could this be because I adjusted the lifters poorly? This is the only part of the job that I was not too confident in my work. How can I tell if this is the problem? Any other ideas? I suppose I'll do an archives search for rough idle, but can anyone think of something I could have disturbed when putting my heads back on. Thanks in advance. Blake 84 Westy SLC Utah ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:00:31 EST Reply-To: SBWC919@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian McClure Subject: Anybody want to swap a fuel pump for a newer cat and muffler?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all- The fuel pump on my Subaru Vanagon hybrid is starting to make some noise. I swapped filters- still a little noisy. I would like to have a spare pump, just in case! I have a newer cat and muffler I would be willing to swap- p mail me for a pic. Brian 83 Urabus ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:06:19 -0800 Reply-To: phil stanhope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: phil stanhope Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels?!?!? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii By the way, what is a Simpler Alternative to welding body panels? Yahoo must have not picked up the thread,yahoo e-mail sucks! phil 84' westy --- Alan Bosch wrote: > <<>> Vegetarian is an old Native American word > for "can't hunt worth > a damn"<<>> > > Along those lines... > > "Vegetables aren't food. Vegetables are what food > eats" > > Alan Bosch > & Phred ('88 Wolfsburg) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:22:40 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels?!?!? Comments: To: phil stanhope In-Reply-To: phil stanhope 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:06:19 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Phil, 3-M Body Panal Adhesive. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:33:18 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Stuart MacMillan In-Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:48:30 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Stuart, If the glued panels failed it was probably due to one of two different things. (1) improperly prepared mating surfaces (2) wrong, or cheap adhesive. Ford Iknow for a fact has been using a Body panel adhesive on their doors and quarter panels for at least 10 years. I have used 3-M body panel adhesive on the front cowel panels of Mack trucks for at least that long, with no failures, ever. It all depends on who's doing the work, and how and what's applied. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:09:26 -0500 Reply-To: "Christopher T. Berchin" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Christopher T. Berchin" Subject: Total newbie has Vanagon questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00E3_01C0B567.7E253340" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00E3_01C0B567.7E253340 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello everyone. I'm new to the list and don't want to make anyone mad, = so I'll try and make this short: I'm looking for a vehicle to transport my 125cc shifter kart (55" wide = rear width) and all my gear to the track without a trailer. I think a = Vanagon will fit the bill since it isn't too large but holds a ton. = I've always thought they were nice vehicles, and now I have a reason to = possibly get one. I've been researching as much as I can before I buy, = but sometimes feedback from real people is better so I joined the list. = (I will continue to search the archives, however.) Some = thoughts/questions of mine: 1) With the weight I'll be moving around, I'm concentrating on 1986 = 2.1L and newer with a 4-speed, and no Synchros. Good idea? 2) Does the rear seat only fold flat in Vanagons with the Weekender = option? I'll need this to use as a "load platform" for the kart, so I'd = like that capability. 3) Cost is a major object, so I'm considering vans that need clutches, = etc. Is this a difficult job? I've changed many FWD car clutches in my = time, so this won't be my first time with the wrenches. Anything to = watch out for in the clutch area? 4) I know that I need to look for head gasket problems. Anything else = this rookie should look for? 5) I live in Michigan - how prone to corrosion are these vehicles? Thanks for any help you can offer to this complete newbie! Chris ------=_NextPart_000_00E3_01C0B567.7E253340 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello everyone.  I'm new to the list and don't want to make = anyone=20 mad, so I'll try and make this short:
 
I'm looking for a vehicle to transport my 125cc shifter kart (55" = wide rear=20 width) and all my gear to the track without a trailer.  I think a = Vanagon=20 will fit the bill since it isn't too large but holds a ton.  I've = always=20 thought they were nice vehicles, and now I have a reason to possibly get = one.  I've been researching as much as I can before I buy, but = sometimes=20 feedback from real people is better so I joined the list.  (I will = continue=20 to search the archives, however.)  Some thoughts/questions of = mine:
 
1)  With the weight I'll be moving around, I'm concentrating = on 1986=20 2.1L and newer with a 4-speed, and no Synchros.  Good idea?
 
2)  Does the rear seat only fold flat in Vanagons with the = Weekender=20 option?  I'll need this to use as a "load platform" for the kart, = so I'd=20 like that capability.
 
3)  Cost is a major object, so I'm considering vans that need=20 clutches, etc.  Is this a difficult job?  I've changed many = FWD car=20 clutches in my time, so this won't be my first time with the = wrenches. =20 Anything to watch out for in the clutch area?
 
4)  I know that I need to look for head gasket problems.  = Anything else this rookie should look for?
 
5)  I live in Michigan - how prone to corrosion are these=20 vehicles?
 
Thanks for any help you can offer to this = complete newbie!

Chris
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_00E3_01C0B567.7E253340-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:13:51 -0500 Reply-To: Liz Maher Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Liz Maher Subject: Re: Aux. Battery In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hi, > The relay can > be used as an aux battery relay although there are better solutions to this > problem (see archives). Can you be more specific? I read through the archives for days and didn't see anything that jumped out as being better than using the aux battery relay for the aux battery.... ..and while I'm writing, we considered the yellow top battery too since it would fit (and a number of people recommended it) but the price got us - we diecided to give up some storage under the jump seat and save the $130 or so difference in price for some other van goodies :) Thanks! :) Liz ____________ |___________| ||E[__] [__]|[_]\\ | =======| - || * * * =( o )--------( o )=p '85 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:49:13 -0800 Reply-To: The CiKaspers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The CiKaspers Subject: help! how to get the propeller shaft to drop? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" well, i followed the bentley, loosened the front differential, took out the eight nuts/bolts holding the shaft in, and it will not budge. i have liberally applied liquid wrench to the seams of the u-joints where they bolt on to either end. where can i bang this sucker with a hammer? i am a bit loathe to do the ujoints, but am willing to crack it anywhere just a few times to get it to drop. i ask this in a rush: she's sitting two wheels on the curb, two in the street, and i am not sure i want to leave her like that overnight... cheers! bill '87 syncro westfalia currently 2wd bill asdfasdf ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:09:00 -0700 Reply-To: Michael Edwards Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Edwards Organization: Lycos Mail (http://mail.lycos.com:80) Subject: Maybe the Starter? Comments: To: Aircool list Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Okay Anybody who has been following the story up to this point might have a clue where I am at with my engine replacement. Anyway...put a new engine in, etc....now it seems that there are a few electrical problems. Probably my fault....when i bought the van, it had a blown engine. In order to move it around in my yard, I drove around by the starter. Naturally not a bright thing to do...but hey..Im lazy. Anyway....engine replaced, now won't start. I am good with mechanical but absolutely horrible with electrical so perhaps someone could point me in the right direction. The starter seems very very very weak...not enough power to do much more than slowly turn engine. The PO had used the hot post to connect a variety of wiring to a hot lead. I disconnected all this stuff temporarily and it seemed a little better. After a moment or so of cranking (hoping it might just fire up)the starter was hot enough to fry bacon (or sausage) on. What next. Should I replace the starter? Replace the cable? I don''t have a multimeter (and have no more than a vague idea how to use one) but would be willing to buy one if I know what to look for. Is it typical to have that many wires (4 total--don't yet know what for) hooked to the starter? So far, all i have done for this particular problem is to clean ground strap on trans. Any help greatly appreciated!!! Thanks Mike Edwards Get 250 color business cards for FREE! at Lycos Mail http://mail.lycos.com/freemail/vistaprint_index.html ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:20:25 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_22.13c5f491.27eff359_boundary" --part1_22.13c5f491.27eff359_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit the $25 he is charging is for the blank cd, his time burning the ETKA on it, and his time and cost pack/shipping. The original that the copies were made from was a 2000 version. if y'all dont think this is fair, then he wont bother. i have my copy, he has his. yes he is aware of copyright issues but get real folks.. have you heard of Napster? not like this is the first time anyone has done this. Anyway thats why he was only charging $25 to cover his time, materials and ship. i just thought some of you out there would like a copy too. apparently not, as it seems to be bringing too much critisizm. chris --part1_22.13c5f491.27eff359_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit the $25 he is charging is for the blank cd, his time burning the ETKA on it,
and his time and cost pack/shipping.  The original that the copies were made
from was a 2000 version.   if y'all dont think this is fair, then he wont
bother.
i have my copy, he has his. yes he is aware of copyright issues but get real
folks..  have you heard of Napster?  not like this is the first time anyone
has done this. Anyway thats why he was only charging $25 to cover his time,
materials and ship.

i just thought some of you out there would like a copy too.
apparently not, as it seems to be bringing too much critisizm.

chris --part1_22.13c5f491.27eff359_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:30:15 EST Reply-To: Sersote@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Paul M. Hillbish" Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just a question since we are on the subject. I am going to be painting my grill soon, and I am wondering if you can use body paint for the plastic, or if it will eat it. I have a can of black auto spray paint that I am thinking of using. The label says nothing about using it on plastic. I am just wondering what the list has to say about it. I want it gloss black. --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:33:18 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Sersote@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: "Paul M. Hillbish" 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:30:15 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Paul, Laquer will attack plastic. As long as it's enamel your OK ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:37:52 EST Reply-To: Sersote@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Paul M. Hillbish" Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/25/01 7:33:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes: << (1) improperly prepared mating surfaces (2) wrong, or cheap adhesive. It all depends on who's doing the work, and how and what's applied. >> Just curious here. Has anyone ever done this? Does it need to be done at a shop? Can you do it in a back yard? How would one prepare the mating surface? I would assume that it would have to be sanded down and smooth, is there anything else to be done? I am interested in this, being that I have a lot of body work to do, and if this can be done by a novice, It sounds cheaper and better in the long run than making a panel out of Bondo, which I am doing now. Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks. --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:44:02 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: A/C system auction closing soon. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, sorry for the shameless capitalism, but wanted to let everyone know I have a complete AC system conversion up on ebay now and it's closing tomorrow, no bids yet, 500 bucks. Campbell Nelson Seattle wants 750 for the same thing, when they have them. thanks mark... ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:48:07 -0500 Reply-To: Jason Willenbrock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jason Willenbrock Subject: one knock wonder Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html
hey all,
this started a couple of weeks ago halfway between new york and st. louis.  but what happens is as i slow to a stop, and then drive off again, a knock comes from the rear.  when i got to st. louis, i unloaded my stuff and drove around town with the knock being only once in awhile.  now i have reloaded the van because i am enroute to montana tomorrow.  now i drove the van loaded tonight and the knock is back louder then ever.  it feels as if something is sticking.  rear brakes?  the knock is inconsistent of using the brakes. for instance, i slowed to a stop using my gears, then i proceeded to drove off and low and behold, the knock.  could this be something going on with my wheels that acts up when the van is loaded with my stuff?  what could be going on back there and what can i expect to happen as i drive off the next 1600 miles to missoula montana?  this knock is fairly consistent and happens 8 out of 10 times.
tia
jason 90 gl

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:47:48 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0B564.789BB000" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0B564.789BB000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The back grill brings more of a balance to the whole vehicle. Paint = both yellow or both black. Either way, GO BIG BIRD!!!!! Chris, '85 Desert Beige Westy both grills stock black ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Michael Sullivan=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 7:10 PM Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Dear List, =20 Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. = In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match = Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd = ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard = black or painted to match the body. =20 You can see the two images here:=20 http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ =20 Looking forward to your comments! =20 Michael J. Sullivan ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0B564.789BB000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The back grill brings more of a balance to the whole = vehicle.  Paint both yellow or both black.
 
Either way, GO BIG BIRD!!!!!
 
Chris,
'85 Desert Beige Westy
both grills stock black
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Michael=20 Sullivan
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 = 7:10=20 PM
Subject: Help me choose Sunny's = grill=20 style!

Dear=20 List,
 
Sunny is = now sporting=20 South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two = sets, one=20 of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. = My wife=20 really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell = me which=20 version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the=20 body.
 
You can = see the two=20 images here:
   http://www.h= aywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/
 
Looking = forward to=20 your comments!
 
Michael J.=20 Sullivan
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0B564.789BB000-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:41:40 -0500 Reply-To: Tim McDermott Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tim McDermott Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: EdVF1000R@AOL.COM MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Ed, On the Iopener list someone lost their OEM driver CD for their Scovery computer. There is no way to get another, so I offered to make the guy a copy. I didn't even ask for money. He generously offered to cover postage and handling and a little extra for my time. I graciously accepted. The point I am making is if you want to help people out and make it easier for someone to locate parts for their Vanagon, I am all for it. I just don't think that $25 fits in the altruistic category. And we all are well aware that we shouldn't be selling them in the first place. Free CD, charge for shipping and handling. That's the way to go. "Ed @ Automotive Consulting" wrote: > Ever try to get a music CD for under $12 bucks? I think not! FYI by > comparison, a 2001 Mitchell Labor Time Guide on CD goes for $150.00 . > 25 > bucks for this very useful information is cheap. Ever try to buy one > of these > retail? > > > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:53:42 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Sersote@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: "Paul M. Hillbish" 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:37:52 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Paul, Prepare the mating surfaces by grinding them with a 36 grit disc, blow off the dust, apply the primer supplied, let dry, apply the body panel adhesive, clamp panel tight, walk away from it. Let it sit overnight, remove the clamps, your done. Be prepared to work pretty fast, this stuff doesn't set up right away, ( I think working time is about 15 minutes ) but you ever saw time fly so fast. Have everything fit, aligned, and know what exactly your going to do, as soon as you lay the adhesive on the surfaces, have the clamps all arranged etc. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 21:06:45 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Maybe the Starter? Comments: To: Michael Edwards In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Classic signs of a shorted starter: you cooked it by using it to drive the van around, and now it has lots of shorted turns in the armature so it gets nice and hot and draws lots of current, but doesn't rotate very well. This is the "pay me later" half of the story...sorry. david At 08:09 PM 3/25/2001, Michael Edwards wrote: >fault....when i bought the van, it had a blown engine. In order to move >it around in my yard, I drove around by the starter. Naturally not a >bright thing to do...but hey..Im lazy. Anyway....engine replaced, now >won't start. I am good with mechanical but absolutely horrible with >electrical so perhaps someone could point me in the right direction. > The starter seems very very very weak...not enough power to do much > more than slowly turn engine. The PO had used the hot post to connect a > variety of wiring to a hot lead. I disconnected all this stuff > temporarily and it seemed a little better. After a moment or so of > cranking (hoping it might just fire up)the starter was hot enough to fry > bacon (or sausage) on. What next. Should I replace the > starter? Replace the cable? I don''t have a multimeter (and have no David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:06:02 -0800 Reply-To: harald_nancy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: harald_nancy Subject: Re: Aux. Battery Comments: To: Liz Maher MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Liz, If you want to read some more on auxiliary batteries in vanagons, you can check out my website at : http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/ Just click on auxiliary battery on the left menu bar. Harald '90 westy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Liz Maher" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 5:13 PM Subject: Re: Aux. Battery > Hi, > > > The relay can > > be used as an aux battery relay although there are better solutions to this > > problem (see archives). > > Can you be more specific? I read through the archives for days and > didn't see anything that jumped out as being better than using the aux > battery relay for the aux battery.... > > ..and while I'm writing, we considered the yellow top battery too since it > would fit (and a number of people recommended it) but the price got us - > we diecided to give up some storage under the jump seat and save the > $130 or so difference in price for some other van goodies :) > > Thanks! > > :) Liz > > ____________ > |___________| > ||E[__] [__]|[_]\\ > | =======| - || > * * * =( o )--------( o )=p > '85 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:20:19 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Subject: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0102_01C0B558.3FC99960" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C0B558.3FC99960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Zoltan=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:36 AM Subject: Bleed the coolant system... I found something unacceptable in the Bentley manual. It starts to talk about bleeding the coolant system and stops in half = way when starts mentioning another way to do it. Now I am not certain = of either. This is on page 19.16 and just when explains the bleeder = screw's positions it ends there and starts explaining the other mode, = not finishing the first. Any sole out there knows? Maybe both? Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C0B558.3FC99960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Zoltan
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 11:36 AM
Subject: Bleed the coolant system...

I found something unacceptable in the = Bentley=20 manual.
It starts to talk about bleeding the = coolant system=20 and stops in half way when starts mentioning another way to do it.  = Now I=20 am not certain of either.  This is on page 19.16 and just when = explains the=20 bleeder screw's positions it ends there and starts explaining the other = mode,=20 not finishing the first.
Any sole out there knows?  Maybe=20 both?
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C0B558.3FC99960-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:41:24 -0800 Reply-To: Scott D Foss Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Scott D Foss Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... Comments: To: zol@FOXINTERNET.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=--__JNP_000_40fb.66bf.3388 This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ----__JNP_000_40fb.66bf.3388 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Zoltan, re Bentley, It is pretty confusing on pg. 19.16 in the right hand column. They are doing fine, telling us to : raise the front of the van, open the bleeder, run the engine, add coolant until it comes out the bleeder. THEY SHOULD JUST SAY CLOSE THE BLEEDER RIGHT THERE, and also. . . . REPEAT. . if necessary. I WOULD CERTAINLY ADD Check the coolant frequently for a few days and add as the level in the pressure-cap bottle goes does down as the last little air finds its way to the bottle, showing up as low coolant level there. Personally I never have to bleed them. Some tricks, If the radiator is empty, like you just changed it, or had the lower hose off : Fill it as much as you can through the temp sender hole. ( get's it about half full ). Sometimes it IS necessary to run the engine and add coolant with the bleeder on the rad open. For jobs like replacing the water pump bleeding usually isn't needed, in my world anyway. Take every opportunity to replace some of the anti-freeze / water mixture that comes along. The coolant is usually old and heading towards yucky, and changing even some it really helps. Be aware that " air leaks in" can occur. The cooling system does not become " un-bled" unless : -their is an external coolant leak, - coolant consumption through the engine, -or air leaks in, like a pin-hole leak or seepage at the radiator or heater core/s. Are you having a symptom that is causing you to want to bleed your cooling system. . . and if so, what might that be, one wonders. Scott ----__JNP_000_40fb.66bf.3388 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Zoltan, re Bentley,
 
        It is pretty = confusing=20 on pg. 19.16 in the right hand column. 
They are doing fine, telling us to :
 raise the front of the van,
 open the bleeder,
 run the engine,
 add coolant until it comes out the bleeder.
 
THEY SHOULD JUST SAY CLOSE THE BLEEDER
RIGHT THERE,
and also. . .  . REPEAT.  . if necessary.
 
I WOULD CERTAINLY ADD
Check the coolant frequently for a few days and add as the = level in=20 the pressure-cap bottle goes does down as the last little air finds its way= to=20 the bottle, showing up as low coolant level there.
 
        Personally I never = have=20 to bleed them.
 
Some tricks,
If the radiator is empty, like you just changed it, or had the= =20 lower hose off  :
Fill it as much as you can through the temp sender=20 hole.
( get's it about half full ).
 
Sometimes it IS necessary to run the engine and add=20 coolant with the bleeder on the rad open.
For jobs like replacing the water pump bleeding usually isn't= =20 needed, in my world anyway.
 
Take every opportunity to replace some of the anti-freeze / = water=20 mixture that comes along.  The coolant is usually old and heading = towards=20 yucky, and changing even some it really helps.
 
Be aware that " air leaks in" can occur.  The=20 cooling system does not become " un-bled"  unless=20 :
-their is an external coolant leak,
- coolant consumption through the engine,
-or air leaks in, like a pin= -hole=20 leak or seepage at the radiator or heater core/s.
 
Are you having a symptom that is causing you to want to  = bleed=20 your cooling system. . . and if so, what might that be, one=20 wonders.
 
          &= nbsp;   =20 Scott
 
 
----__JNP_000_40fb.66bf.3388-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:09:52 -0500 Reply-To: Schmidt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Schmidt Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... Comments: To: Zoltan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0B578.50FAF1A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0B578.50FAF1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Forget Bentley. 19.16 states INCORRECTLY to raise the front end 10 cm. = This won't do it.=20 Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a useable table of contents = and index. Bentley misses the mark. Anyway, Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front AT LEAST 40 cm! = Follow the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your Bentley.=20 Ok, keep it for reference. Sometimes you have a ton of time to waste = and need an obscure detail that only Bentley has. Haynes sure doesn't = have the 500 pages of worthless transmission banter in it. Let's face it = though, 99% of even very good DIYers don't need that info. Haynes: the good info that you can actually find when you need it(useful = table of contents and index), has a hard cover, costs much less, takes = up far less space, no pages intentionally left blank. rant off, Jay I found something unacceptable in the Bentley manual. It starts to talk about bleeding the coolant system and stops in half = way when starts mentioning another way to do it. Now I am not certain = of either. This is on page 19.16 and just when explains the bleeder = screw's positions it ends there and starts explaining the other mode, = not finishing the first. Any sole out there knows? Maybe both? Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0B578.50FAF1A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Forget Bentley.  19.16 states INCORRECTLY to = raise the=20 front end 10 cm.  This won't do it.
Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a = useable table of=20 contents and index.  Bentley misses the mark.
Anyway, Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front = AT LEAST=20 40 cm!  Follow the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your = Bentley.=20
Ok, keep it for reference.  Sometimes you have = a ton of=20 time to waste and need an obscure detail that only Bentley has. Haynes = sure=20 doesn't have the 500 pages of worthless transmission banter in it. Let's = face it=20 though, 99% of even very good DIYers don't need that info.
 
Haynes: the good info that you can actually find = when you need=20 it(useful table of contents and index), has a hard cover, costs much = less, takes=20 up far less space, no pages intentionally left blank.
 
rant off, Jay
 
 
I found something unacceptable in the = Bentley=20 manual.
It starts to talk about bleeding the = coolant=20 system and stops in half way when starts mentioning another way to do=20 it.  Now I am not certain of either.  This is on page 19.16 = and just=20 when explains the bleeder screw's positions it ends there and starts=20 explaining the other mode, not finishing the first.
Any sole out there knows?  Maybe = both?
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0B578.50FAF1A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 21:54:12 EST Reply-To: EdVF1000R@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Ed @ Automotive Consulting" Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: h2oboxer@optonline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_73.c2089e8.27f00954_boundary" --part1_73.c2089e8.27f00954_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tim - My point here is that your hobby IS Chris' , Ken Wilford's, Ron Salmon's and my business, and that it is unrealistic to expect stuff for free from someone whose livelihood depends, in part, on what you are getting. There have been many cars through my garage that have been fixed on the good faith that i would be paid eventually.... or fixed for a net loss because i knew that the owner would lose his/her house/job/savings if (s)he couldn't get to work. Every car can't be like this, though, because i would be bankrupt in a month. The customers paying the regular rate make it possible for me to help the people in need.Those of us in business have taken extreme personal financial risks to do so, and we help the hobbyists like yourself as much as we can, usually for no additional charge. - Ed --part1_73.c2089e8.27f00954_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tim -
   My point here is that your hobby IS Chris' , Ken Wilford's, Ron Salmon's
and my business, and that it is unrealistic to expect stuff for free from
someone whose livelihood depends, in part, on what you are getting.  There
have been many cars through my garage that have been fixed on the good faith
that i would be paid eventually.... or fixed for a net loss because i knew
that the owner would lose his/her house/job/savings if (s)he couldn't get to
work. Every car can't be like this, though, because i would be bankrupt in a
month. The customers paying the regular rate make it possible for me to help
the people in need.Those of us in business have taken extreme personal  
financial risks to do so, and we help the hobbyists like yourself as much as
we can, usually for no additional charge.  - Ed --part1_73.c2089e8.27f00954_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:41:09 -0500 Reply-To: Brian Yonker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Yonker Subject: FS: 82 Westy for sale MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello all, I am selling my Westy for $3500. I have just put up a site with a few pictures and details about the van. If you need any more info or pics, Email me. Click on the link below: http://home.att.net/~b.l.yonker/westy/index.html Brian ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:26:04 -0500 Reply-To: Bob Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob Donalds Subject: Re;Was head leak; then ring and valve. Turned into rebuild. Now, Comments: To: wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karl fellow listees and learkers I am very happy to report that I am now able to align bore 1.9 and 2.1 cases and I have a small supply of bearings that will work with a align bored case and a standard crank only for both the 1.9 and 2.1 engines main bearings are starting to trickle in and for allot more money I am able to supply bearings only to customers that I align bore cases for. the price of bearings is $125 and the align bore price depends on how many hours it take to fluff, buff, fill in the divits and patch the case assemble the halfs and then punch the bore ( price may vary )$150 and up mostly up Karl the dowel pin is not a press fit and if the dowel pin hole is elongated then the bearing may have seized to the crank. was that the case? no pun intended its common for the 1.9 cases loose there crush on the bearing over time so the bearing may just be loose in the case. they do make a oversize pin but I would use a small amount of lock tight to hold the dowel in place before the engine is assembled. the area around the pin is most likely pushed up and will press the bearing into the crank and seize if reassembled it without align boring it my current pricing for the 1.9 engine is $2300 this is based on a good core and includes new 2.1 heads, new pistons and cylinders a reground 2.1 OEM cam, rebuilt rockers, new lifters, rebuilt boston Bob rods, new oil pump. all cases are rebuilt and align bored the flywheel is machined and end play set. the pulley is installed at the customer request. my engine also come with all gaskets needed to install the engine. I have made oil pressure on the engine stand and checked the engine for oil leaks and tested the compression. the engine is then packaged in a crate for safe keeping with a return shipping invoice enclosed. the time it takes to strip degeaseand properly rebuild and package the waterboxer engines continues to increase as does the price of the parts and I must pass the increases on to the consumer. I have also been testing a new way to prebleed the lifters that looks promising and may lead to no more fooling around with the preload lifters after the engine has run for a few weeks more on that later Bob Donalds http://www.bostonengine.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:08:15 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------FC435D97F93558461CE71957" --------------FC435D97F93558461CE71957 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The funny thing is i never ever have to raise the front of Vanagon to bleed it, there is no need at all. It worked for me all the time. Just fiill system with coolant, drive around to warm up the engine. Stop and refill again. It should do it or repeat procedure again. It will not work if there are air leaks or expansion tank cap is defective. Leon Subwagen Westy Schmidt wrote: > Forget Bentley. 19.16 states INCORRECTLY to raise the front end 10 > cm. This won't do it.Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a > useable table of contents and index. Bentley misses the mark.Anyway, > Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front AT LEAST 40 cm! Follow > the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your Bentley.Ok, keep it for > reference. Sometimes you have a ton of time to waste and need an > obscure detail that only Bentley has. Haynes sure doesn't have the 500 > pages of worthless transmission banter in it. Let's face it though, > 99% of even very good DIYers don't need that info. Haynes: the good > info that you can actually find when you need it(useful table of > contents and index), has a hard cover, costs much less, takes up far > less space, no pages intentionally left blank. rant off, Jay > > I found something unacceptable in the Bentley manual.It > starts to talk about bleeding the coolant system and stops > in half way when starts mentioning another way to do it. > Now I am not certain of either. This is on page 19.16 and > just when explains the bleeder screw's positions it ends > there and starts explaining the other mode, not finishing > the first.Any sole out there knows? Maybe both?Zoltan > --------------FC435D97F93558461CE71957 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The funny thing is i never ever have to raise the front of Vanagon to bleed it, there is no need at all.
It worked for me all the time. Just fiill system with coolant, drive around to warm up the engine. Stop and refill again. It should do it or repeat procedure again. It will not work if there are air leaks or expansion tank cap is defective.
Leon
Subwagen Westy

Schmidt wrote:

Forget Bentley.  19.16 states INCORRECTLY to raise the front end 10 cm.  This won't do it.Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a useable table of contents and index.  Bentley misses the mark.Anyway, Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front AT LEAST 40 cm!  Follow the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your Bentley.Ok, keep it for reference.  Sometimes you have a ton of time to waste and need an obscure detail that only Bentley has. Haynes sure doesn't have the 500 pages of worthless transmission banter in it. Let's face it though, 99% of even very good DIYers don't need that info. Haynes: the good info that you can actually find when you need it(useful table of contents and index), has a hard cover, costs much less, takes up far less space, no pages intentionally left blank. rant off, Jay
  I found something unacceptable in the Bentley manual.It starts to talk about bleeding the coolant system and stops in half way when starts mentioning another way to do it.  Now I am not certain of either.  This is on page 19.16 and just when explains the bleeder screw's positions it ends there and starts explaining the other mode, not finishing the first.Any sole out there knows?  Maybe both?Zoltan
--------------FC435D97F93558461CE71957-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:43:39 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Francis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Francis Subject: new head gasket split MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_010F_01C0B56C.45C35AE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_010F_01C0B56C.45C35AE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, After rebuilding a 2.1, I torqued the heads on by the book = with a new German gasket set. The engine ran good and did not leak. = After running the engine only a few miles I put the Vanagon away for a = few days planning to button things up when I had time. In two days I = happened to notice the passenger side head was starting to leak coolant. = I looked at the gasket on the top of the head on the front corner and = the gasket was pushed out funny. I took the head off and the new rubber = gasket had a diagonal split about 3/4 inch long that cut the sealing = face of the gasket in two. Has this happened to anyone else or did I = just get a bad gasket? The heads are the original heads that came off of = the engine. Any ideas? The gaskets had the VW mark on them so I assume = they are OEM. =20 Thanks, Todd Francis =20 ------=_NextPart_000_010F_01C0B56C.45C35AE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi all,    After rebuilding a 2.1, I = torqued=20 the heads on by the book with a new German gasket set. The engine ran = good and=20 did not leak. After running the engine only a few miles I put the = Vanagon away=20 for a few days planning to button things up when I had time. In two days = I=20 happened to notice the passenger side head was starting to leak coolant. = I=20 looked at the gasket on the top of  the head on the front corner = and the=20 gasket was pushed out funny. I took the head off and the new rubber = gasket had a=20 diagonal split about 3/4 inch long that cut the sealing face of the = gasket in=20 two. Has this happened to anyone else or did I just get a bad gasket? = The heads=20 are the original heads that came off of the engine. Any ideas?  The = gaskets=20 had the VW mark on them so I assume they are OEM. 
Thanks,  Todd Francis =20
------=_NextPart_000_010F_01C0B56C.45C35AE0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:48:59 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: Head are done, rough idle Comments: To: Blake Thornton MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just read your magnus opus, Blake. Good job! What "flavor" of JB Weld did you use? I just visited their web site and they have a number of different products. Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/westy.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Blake Thornton To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 5:49 PM Subject: Head are done, rough idle > Description of some of the work I did (rough idle question at the bottom): > > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Well, I finished putting on my head this morning and got it all wrapped > up. Overall, I would say I am very pleased with the way it all come > together. Mostly it was easier then I had thought it would be and I am > happy I did it - until it starts leaking again next week :) > > I wrote up some of what I did and posted it. It not too complete, but it > does have information on the amount of time I spent -- something I would > have like to have known before I started. If you are interested, you can > find this at: > http://www.math.utah.edu/~thornton/vanagon/my-heads.shtml > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 18:33:00 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Tatra air cooled V8 conversion? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Then he went on to tell me how the Germans stole ALL >aircooled technology from the Czech's during WW2. >Said Porsche, VW both stole designs from the Czech's Really? Funny, the Beetle and its engines date back to 1936... If I remember rightly the Tatra V8 is DOHC 16V, and has been around since at least the 60s. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 18:33:07 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... Mac users need not apply Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Macintoshes cannot open ETKA CDs. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:44:36 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gloss black doesn't look too good - I tried it. A black paint meant for trim works better. Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy > Paul, > Laquer will attack plastic. > As long as it's enamel your OK > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | > ||-(())----(())-| > > Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:45:55 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin In-Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:44:36 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MR, I agree. I repainted mine with Krylon semi gloss black. And then masked off the border, and hit it with polish chrome, and it looks factory. Gloss black, I think would look like Ca-Ca. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:59:17 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > In a message dated 3/25/01 7:33:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, > CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes: > > << (1) improperly prepared mating surfaces > (2) wrong, or cheap adhesive. > > > It all depends on who's doing the work, and how and what's applied. > >> > > Just curious here. Has anyone ever done this? Does it need to be done at a > shop? No Can you do it in a back yard? Yes How would one prepare the mating surface? Grind down to bare metal on both mating surfaces for area large enough to achieve adequate coverage - depends upon the application. The packaging wil have instructions. > I would assume that it would have to be sanded down and smooth, is there > anything else to be done? Panels have to be clamped together (but not so tight that the adhesive is all forced out) for a specified period of time. Excess adhesive has to be ground off after. USE LOTS, you want it to squeeze out and to not have any gaps. I am interested in this, being that I have a lot of > body work to do, and if this can be done by a novice, It sounds cheaper and > better in the long run than making a panel out of Bondo, which I am doing > now. Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks. Replacement body panels are pretty cheap, and this method is a whole lot easier and safer than welding. I cannot think of why you couldn't do it at home, provided the temperature was within the range that the adhesive requires. Maybe there is a good reason not to do it at home, but it must be a pretty subtle reason, as it's not apparent to me. I was thrilled to learn about this technology - now the only tasks I really need a shop for is to just shoot the paint. Everything else I can now do at home. Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy > > --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:00:38 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin In-Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin 's message of Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:59:17 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit And the biggest bonus is, the bonding agent displaces moisture !! No more rusted seam's----- Incredible !!! ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 01:03:40 EST Reply-To: Sersote@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Paul M. Hillbish" Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/25/01 8:54:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, CTONLINE@webtv.net writes: << Have everything fit, aligned, and know what exactly your going to do, as soon as you lay the adhesive on the surfaces, have the clamps all arranged etc. >> What kind of clamps? Or rather how? I am thinking of doing this for a wheel well, and my drivers side mid-panel. (the huge one with the Westy inlets) I doubt a regular "C" clamp would work for that. Think duct tape would hold it tight enough? --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 00:08:17 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Sersote@aol.com In-Reply-To: Sersote@aol.com's message of Mon, 26 Mar 2001 01:03:40 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Paul, I recommend a vice grips, that has a flat, wide (about 3" to 4" ) jaws. You will need several of them ( the more the merrier) to keep the panel tight while the adhesive is setting up. This is what I use, and they work well. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:10:44 -0800 Reply-To: sg Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: sg Subject: successful heater blower replacement MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0058_01C0B578.6FA6F6D0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C0B578.6FA6F6D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable hi list, just wanted to post a message saying that i had succesfully replaced my = faulty heater blower motor. now the fan works peachy. i ended up = getting a replacement blower from a pick-n-pull junkyard in newark, ca, = for about $19 including core deposit. pulled one off of an 84 (my = vanagon is an 85) and it seems to be pretty much identical blower unit, = works fine. also, i got a chance to practice the dash removal again at = the pick-n-pull on a junker, and the second time doing it it was pretty = effortless, from start to finish, blower motor sitting in my hand, it = took about 35 minutes. pick-n-pulls are great, im definitely going to = start going more often, never know what your gonna find, could be that = part you've been thinking about mail ordering for $60 and you find one = for $10! anyhow, thanks for all who responded to my posts for help = during the job ... -steve and buster ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C0B578.6FA6F6D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
hi list,
just wanted to post a message saying = that i had=20 succesfully replaced my faulty heater blower motor.  now the fan = works=20 peachy.  i ended up getting a replacement blower from a = pick-n-pull=20 junkyard in newark, ca, for about $19 including core deposit.  = pulled one=20 off of an 84 (my vanagon is an 85) and it seems to be pretty much = identical=20 blower unit, works fine.  also, i got a chance to practice the dash = removal=20 again at the pick-n-pull on a junker, and the second time doing it it = was pretty=20 effortless, from start to finish, blower motor sitting in my hand, it = took about=20 35 minutes.  pick-n-pulls are great, im definitely going to start = going=20 more often, never know what your gonna find, could be that part you've = been=20 thinking about mail ordering for $60 and you find one for $10!  = anyhow,=20 thanks for all who responded to my posts for help during the job=20 ...
-steve and = buster
------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C0B578.6FA6F6D0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:51:49 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Sersote@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've used Motorcycle engine paint "Satin Black" with good results on plastic grills - to give them a 'like new' look. I can't think of the manufacturer of the paint, but the can is yellow, and you can find it at most motorcycle shops - like Cycle Gear. The main thing you want to be sure of is that the surface of the plastic has to be free and clean of oils and dirt - otherwise the paint will not adhere correctly. (I've use a Ditzler Acriliclean? to clean parts before painting.) I'm sure if you wanted to be a perfectionist, a coat of primer first would not be a bad idea. That's been my experience, but I have no education in auto painting - so take my words with that caveat. Todd '88 Westy "Paul M. Hillbish" wrote: > Just a question since we are on the subject. I am going to be painting my > grill soon, and I am wondering if you can use body paint for the plastic, or > if it will eat it. I have a can of black auto spray paint that I am thinking > of using. The label says nothing about using it on plastic. I am just > wondering what the list has to say about it. I want it gloss black. > > --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:55:02 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Bumper Painting question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For anyone who has experience in auto painting. If you are going to paint the fiberglass bumpers in the scheme that has two-colors. (With the darker color the raised portion of the bumper.) What is the best way to do this? Paint the bumper the darker (raised) color first, then mask and spray the rest of the bumper the lighter color? or Paint the bumper all the lighter color, mask and spray the darker raised portion ? Thanks Todd '88 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 00:12:22 -0800 Reply-To: The CiKaspers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The CiKaspers Subject: propeller shaft dropped successfully Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" thanks to all who piped me quick advice (terry, tim, derek, cory, larry, and mark), including steve schwenk who i spoke with on the phone. liquid wrench is my friend. i will be buying the gallon can at osh next trip, for i see it has extremely high use value. it took three sets of lw application, banging with a 4 lb sledgehammer, plus torquing with a combo wrench again and again and again for the front differential bolts to even begin to turn *with* the nuts. then one more application each side, plus some judicious sledging using a flat punch, and the combo wrench and a small crescent (as a wedged stop) working hard, and i got that satisfying "crack" when the threads broke free. ten minutes later i had a prop shaft in my basement and no more vibration at 35mph. thanks again, all. rule of the day? read bentley *properly*. bill '87 syncro westfalia http://www.scruznet.com/~cikasper/pics/westy ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 00:44:27 -0800 Reply-To: VW Addict aka The Bus Nut Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: VW Addict aka The Bus Nut Subject: Re: Yes Thurston, TRUUUUly awfull. Comments: To: radish150 In-Reply-To: <3ABE5155.9D7D18F7@earthlink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii If you want to sell that one or know of any others, let me know. I think it look real cool. I would love one for my 85, but would need a rear to match. --- radish150 wrote: > > > > > > > > You can see the two images here: > > > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ > > > > > There is no question, the yellow grille looks much better. > > However, if you are into aesthetics, the front bumper has to go. > > The actual bumper looks good, but the thing sticking up in the middle is > > truly awful. > > > > > Don't listen to Robin Leach here, that bumper kicks butt. It would be stupid > to remove such a functional piece out of some misguided effort to make > something > look "refined" (excuse me, would you happen to have any cheap brown mustard?) > . Form follows function, you now have both. Truly awful? Give thee a break. > > 2 cents please, > mark... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 00:47:34 -0800 Reply-To: VW Addict aka The Bus Nut Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: VW Addict aka The Bus Nut Subject: Re: Mystery Box Comments: To: Larry Alofs In-Reply-To: <3ABE7527.4CFEF8CD@enteract.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii He is right, I have a match to it, but mine is for an Auto. --- Larry Alofs wrote: > > In any case, as I poked around amidst the mass of wires and cables, I came > > across a strange black box hanging from a tie wrap. It is labeled "OEM > > Replica Series Manual Transmission Electronic Module" and has a part number > > of 96-00-0342. I was unable to locate a manufacturer id. You can see a > > photo of it at the following url: > > > > http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/id27.htm > > > > Can anyone tell me what this device is? > > > > Thanks! > > > > Dave Baker > > 85 Westy > > Sure looks like the control module for the Cruise control servo that you > found > in the engine compartment. > Great web-site. > > Larry A. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:00:28 -0500 Reply-To: Stephen Steele Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stephen Steele Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: hexbus@mindspring.com Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > At 11:24 AM 3/25/2001 -0500, you wrote: > $25 each to burn a cd and ship within the cont. USA > > Wow. Not much sense of community there, that's major profit making. Blank > CDs cost anywhere from about nothing to around $.80, depending on > quality. How about b&p (blanks and postage) like the (legitimate) music > trading community does? Send the dude a self-addressed, pre-stamped mailer > with the blank CD inside, all inside another mailer, it gets burned and > returned to you. > > Hell, if someone gets me the original, I'll do unlimited discs for > b&p. That's *free*. Or, why don't we do a tree to distribute these > things? I'm a DAT taper/trader and CD trader, and it's horrifying that > someone would want $25 to burn CDs. Outrageous. Unless I'm missing >something. > > > Kyle Fromm > 89 Wolfsburg Carat/Weekender(?) - The Hexbus Kyle, I, for one, would like to hear more about your experiences in CD trading... web sites, clubs, etc. Many of us have burners and the idea of a 'tree' is probably very do-able. Why not post some "interesting" generic CD info and if it happens to get used to do other than home-made music on a personal level, at cost replacement...who can complain? -- Stephen Steele Chillicothe OH '91 Caravelle "Hans" '84 Westfalia "Fritz" '81 Diesel Rabbit "Ol' Yeller" by PO '90 Jetta GL 16 yo Sons' "together" car ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 00:00:44 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: help! how to get the propeller shaft to drop? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" This isn't the Schimmwagen list ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 00:00:49 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The English Bedford CF vans (an Opel design?) in the 70s & 80s had glued-on body reinforcing. i know, because one came off in my hand once when I was hanging onto it! I'd expect that recent advances in adhesives would not allow this to happen with newer vehicles. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 00:00:53 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Forget Bentley. 19.16 states INCORRECTLY to raise the front end 10 cm. >This won't do it. >Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a useable table of contents >and index. Bentley misses the mark. >Anyway, Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front AT LEAST 40 cm! >Follow the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your Bentley. the Bentley manual for 80-84 Vanagons says "approximately 40cm" Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 05:37:53 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Re: A/C system auction closing soon. Comments: To: radish150 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Folks: I'm getting an entire rust free 87 weekender with Bilsteins and fully functional AC, new tires, and many new parts yet to be installed(heads got hot) and a sem,i greasy Bentley manual for $500. Yeah, that's a little high for what we're likely to get. DM&FS ----- Original Message ----- From: "radish150" To: Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 7:44 PM Subject: A/C system auction closing soon. > Hi, sorry for the shameless capitalism, but wanted to let everyone know I have a complete AC system conversion up on ebay now and it's closing tomorrow, no bids > yet, 500 bucks. Campbell Nelson Seattle wants 750 for the same thing, when they have them. > > thanks > mark... ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 06:44:59 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f5.85f8688.27f085bb_boundary" --part1_f5.85f8688.27f085bb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/25/2001 12:59:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > Re: ETKA cd's ..... d Hello ! I've been offering this service for over a year now at $10.=20= =20 Check back in the archives Volks and you'll see. I just haven't posted the=20 message lately as I was trying to keep low key about it all. =20 If you want a copy of the ETKA V5.3, send me a 10 dollar bill wrapped= =20 in sheet of paper with your mailing address on it and it will be sent out=20 immediately. Check with others on the List that I have sent CD's to. No=20 problems ! Send to : Frank Condelli RR #2 Almonte, ON Canada K0A 1A0 Cheers=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper event in Almonte, June 7-10 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_f5.85f8688.27f085bb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/25/2= 001 12:59:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


Re: ETKA cd's .....  i= nterested? rea
d


      Hello !  I've been offering th= is service for over a year now at $10.  
Check back in the archives Volks and you'll see.  I just haven't po= sted the=20
message lately as I was trying to keep low key about it all.  
      If you want a copy of the ETKA V5.3= , send me a 10 dollar bill wrapped=20
in sheet of paper with your mailing address on it and it will be sent ou= t=20
immediately.  Check with others on the List that I have sent CD's t= o.  No=20
problems !
      Send to :     F= rank Condelli
            = ;            RR=20= #2
            = ;            Alm= onte, ON
            = ;            Can= ada
            = ;            K0A= 1A0
Cheers=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a=20= VW Camper event in Almonte, June 7-10
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stain= less Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &a= mp; Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_f5.85f8688.27f085bb_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 06:49:46 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: What is the most up-to-data ETKA out there? Comments: cc: vanagon@volkswagen.org MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_83.8b0864e.27f086da_boundary" --part1_83.8b0864e.27f086da_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/25/2001 5:38:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: >=20 David, the ETKA CD I have is V5.3. 1947 to 2001 Cheers=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper event in Almonte, June 7-10 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_83.8b0864e.27f086da_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/25/2= 001 5:38:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


What is the most up-to-data= ETKA out there?


      David, the ETKA CD I have is V5.3.=20=  1947 to 2001

Cheers=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a=20= VW Camper event in Almonte, June 7-10
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stain= less Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &a= mp; Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_83.8b0864e.27f086da_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:17:07 -0500 Reply-To: MF Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: MF Subject: Vanagon was here MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0B5C4.C4012240" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0B5C4.C4012240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner that actually works? I need to = remove all of my vanagon deposits (oil and brake fluid mostly ) from the = conctrete. Thanks in advance Matt ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0B5C4.C4012240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner = that=20 actually works?  I need to remove all of my vanagon deposits (oil = and brake=20 fluid mostly ) from the conctrete. Thanks in advance
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C0B5C4.C4012240-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:28:00 -0500 Reply-To: Gary Stearns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary Stearns Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Boundary_(ID_1l3BjUj7dCCATpldfBSOmQ)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_1l3BjUj7dCCATpldfBSOmQ) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hey Mike- Are those SIX horns I see peeking out below the bumper? From the sound that those must make, they probably don't need to make sound at all... they probably just blow the offender away! Oh, I like the black. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Sullivan To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 8:10 PM Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Dear List, Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the body. You can see the two images here: http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ Looking forward to your comments! Michael J. Sullivan --Boundary_(ID_1l3BjUj7dCCATpldfBSOmQ) Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Hey Mike-
Are those SIX horns I see peeking out below the bumper?   From the sound that those must make, they probably don't need to make sound at all... they probably just blow the offender away!  Oh, I like the black.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: Help me choose Sunny's grill style!

Dear List,
 
Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU like: standard black or painted to match the body.
 
You can see the two images here:
 
Looking forward to your comments!
 
Michael J. Sullivan
--Boundary_(ID_1l3BjUj7dCCATpldfBSOmQ)-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:10:59 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Diesel parts needed! Comments: To: Snowman@inebraska.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4b.94d62aa.27f099e3_boundary" --part1_4b.94d62aa.27f099e3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Todd, I have two 1.6l TD engines. One is from a Quantum and is perfect for Vanagon Conversion (turbo is out of the way of the engine mount). This engine is only supposed to have 80k original miles (the car was wrecked). It has alternator, a/c pump, powersteering pump, and fuel pump, etc on the engine. I would like $800 plus shipping for this motor. The other engine I have has like 300k miles on it, but was rebuilt around 100k miles ago. However the guy I bought it from says it was getting low on power and probably ready for another rebuild. I would like $400 plus shipping for this one. It is from a Jetta so you would have to modify the engine carrier to put it on a van. Thanks, Ken Wilford Van-Again John 3:16 http://www.vanagain.com Office: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_4b.94d62aa.27f099e3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Todd, I have two 1.6l TD engines.  One is from a Quantum and is perfect for
Vanagon Conversion (turbo is out of the way of the engine mount).  This
engine is only supposed to have 80k original miles (the car was wrecked).  It
has alternator, a/c pump, powersteering pump, and fuel pump, etc on the
engine.  I would like $800 plus shipping for this motor.  The other engine I
have has like 300k miles on it, but was rebuilt around 100k miles ago.  
However the guy I bought it from says it was getting low on power and
probably ready for another rebuild.  I would like $400 plus shipping for this
one.  It is from a Jetta so you would have to modify the engine carrier to
put it on a van.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
Van-Again
John 3:16
http://www.vanagain.com
Office: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_4b.94d62aa.27f099e3_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:17:58 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Re: Vanagon was here MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_022B_01C0B5C4.E2593B10" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_022B_01C0B5C4.E2593B10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Spray some water, sprinkle TSP (trisodium phosphate) onto water, enough = to form a paste, brush vigorously with a stiff brush, wait 30 min, hose = off, dilute the runoff tremendously if possible.... You can get TSP at WallMart in the home paint department. It's a powder = and comes in many size packages, and is a good staple to keep in your = dangerous goods cabinet. Wear gloves. Good luck Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy ----- Original Message -----=20 From: MF=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:17 AM Subject: Vanagon was here Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner that actually works? I need to = remove all of my vanagon deposits (oil and brake fluid mostly ) from the = conctrete. Thanks in advance =20 Matt ------=_NextPart_000_022B_01C0B5C4.E2593B10 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Spray some water, sprinkle TSP = (trisodium=20 phosphate) onto water, enough to form a paste, brush vigorously with a = stiff=20 brush, wait 30 min, hose off, dilute the runoff tremendously if=20 possible....
 
You can get TSP at WallMart in the home = paint=20 department. It's a powder and comes in many size packages, and is a good = staple=20 to keep in your dangerous goods cabinet.
 
Wear gloves.
 
Good luck
 
Marshall Ruskin
84 Westy
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 MF
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 = 6:17=20 AM
Subject: Vanagon was here

Does anyone know of a driveway = cleaner that=20 actually works?  I need to remove all of my vanagon deposits (oil = and=20 brake fluid mostly ) from the conctrete. Thanks in = advance
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_022B_01C0B5C4.E2593B10-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:18:17 -0500 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: 4 quad tip plugs for sale I put CDI in my car and thus do not need these Bosch quad tips any more. Paid $7 apiece, used 1000 miles. No problems with them at all, but cannot gap them for CDI. $16 including shipping. First response that can paypal gets them. Adam Puzerewski 81 westy 74 beetle Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:05:14 -0500 Reply-To: James Creech Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: James Creech Subject: Re: Vanagon was here Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0B5D3.DEBE1520" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0B5D3.DEBE1520 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Marshall is right. But be aware, if you have an asphalt drive, that oil = will gradually dissolve the tar-sand mix. As I remember my chemistry, = TSP shouldn't further damage asphalt, but if you're cleaning up oil = spills on asphalt, go carefully. A few years back I put some holes into = asphalt with a std. pressure hose nozzle - where the oil spills had been = standing for some time, loosening the material. Best practice for = concrete and asphalt is don't let oil (or other) spills stand too long. = Jim ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Marshall Ruskin=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:17 AM Subject: Re: Vanagon was here Spray some water, sprinkle TSP (trisodium phosphate) onto water, = enough to form a paste, brush vigorously with a stiff brush, wait 30 = min, hose off, dilute the runoff tremendously if possible.... You can get TSP at WallMart in the home paint department. It's a = powder and comes in many size packages, and is a good staple to keep in = your dangerous goods cabinet. Wear gloves. Good luck Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy ----- Original Message -----=20 From: MF=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:17 AM Subject: Vanagon was here Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner that actually works? I need = to remove all of my vanagon deposits (oil and brake fluid mostly ) from = the conctrete. Thanks in advance Matt ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0B5D3.DEBE1520 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Marshall is right.  But be aware, if you have = an asphalt=20 drive, that oil will gradually dissolve the tar-sand mix.  As I = remember my=20 chemistry, TSP shouldn't further damage asphalt, but if you're cleaning = up oil=20 spills on asphalt, go carefully.  A few years back I put some holes = into=20 asphalt with a std. pressure hose nozzle - where the oil spills had been = standing for some time, loosening the material.  Best practice for = concrete=20 and asphalt is don't let oil (or other) spills stand too long. =20
 
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Marshall Ruskin=20
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 = 8:17=20 AM
Subject: Re: Vanagon was = here

Spray some water, sprinkle TSP = (trisodium=20 phosphate) onto water, enough to form a paste, brush vigorously with a = stiff=20 brush, wait 30 min, hose off, dilute the runoff tremendously if=20 possible....
 
You can get TSP at WallMart in the = home paint=20 department. It's a powder and comes in many size packages, and is a = good=20 staple to keep in your dangerous goods cabinet.
 
Wear gloves.
 
Good luck
 
Marshall Ruskin
84 Westy
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 MF
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 = 6:17=20 AM
Subject: Vanagon was = here

Does anyone know of a driveway = cleaner that=20 actually works?  I need to remove all of my vanagon deposits = (oil and=20 brake fluid mostly ) from the conctrete. Thanks in = advance
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0B5D3.DEBE1520-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:05:37 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: FS: Eberspacher BA-6 Gas heater for Vanagon or bus Comments: cc: Cheilan@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_22.13c33173.27f0a6b1_boundary" --part1_22.13c33173.27f0a6b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale: Eberspacher BA-6 gasoline fueled auxilliary heater. belly pan style. fits late vw bus and all vanagons. mounts underneath van, has cover too. taps fuel from your fuel line, so you never run out of fuel (unlike a propane heater) complete with all wiring, switches, fuel pump, coil, relays etc. was from a 81 vanagon. OEM factory vw auxilliary heater, can be used while moving or stationary. $300 complete chris --part1_22.13c33173.27f0a6b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale: Eberspacher BA-6  gasoline fueled auxilliary heater.  belly pan
style.  fits late vw bus and all vanagons. mounts underneath van, has cover
too.  taps fuel from your fuel line, so you never run out of fuel (unlike a
propane heater)
complete with all wiring, switches, fuel pump, coil, relays etc.  was from a
81 vanagon.  OEM factory vw auxilliary heater, can be used while moving or
stationary.
$300 complete

chris --part1_22.13c33173.27f0a6b1_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:10:50 -0500 Reply-To: James Creech Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: James Creech Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'd also add some unsolicited advice from my brief 1 yr. experience working on my Vanagon. Haynes is far more direct in giving actual "how-to" instructions for many repairs and much maintenance. I wouldn't be without mine. However, the Bentley gives further info and photos - even if it is often poor on walking you thru the actual steps of repair. So I always refer to both. Jim Creech 87 Westy GL 2.1 > >Forget Bentley. > >Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a useable table of contents > >and index. Bentley misses the mark. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:08:11 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: free stuff MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_49.94aaa16.27f0a74b_boundary" --part1_49.94aaa16.27f0a74b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit free stuff: vanagon dash (no gauges) vanagon rear seat from 7 pass, blue velour w/ armrests, great shape (non sofabed) must pick up in allentown, pa --part1_49.94aaa16.27f0a74b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit free stuff:
vanagon dash (no gauges)
vanagon rear seat from 7 pass, blue velour w/ armrests, great shape (non
sofabed)

must pick up in allentown, pa --part1_49.94aaa16.27f0a74b_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:01:22 -0500 Reply-To: koloski@TOAD.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Koloski Subject: Re: Tatra air cooled V8 conversion? Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit TRY THIS LINK: http://www.toad.net/~koloski/peoplescar.html Tatra was building rear-engine automobiles powered by an air-cooled overhead cam V-8 before WWII. The engine in Porche's KdF wagen (the Volkswagen bug) used pushrods operated by a camshaft located under the crankshaft to lift the valves. Quoting Andrew Grebneff : > >Then he went on to tell me how the Germans stole ALL > >aircooled technology from the Czech's during WW2. > >Said Porsche, VW both stole designs from the Czech's > > Really? Funny, the Beetle and its engines date back to 1936... > > If I remember rightly the Tatra V8 is DOHC 16V, and has been around > since > at least the 60s. > > Andrew Grebneff > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > > VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut > Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus > *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, > always remember that we are the TOP 10% > *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and > millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million > machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note > that > cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do > not > denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 > _________________________________________________________________________ This mail sent via toadmail.com, web e-mail @ ToadNet - want to go fast? http://www.toadmail.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 06:48:51 -0800 Reply-To: phil stanhope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: phil stanhope Subject: Re: Tatra air cooled V8 conversion? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii "If I remember rightly the Tatra V8 is DOHC 16V, and has been around since at least the 60s." Well, the Tatra Air cooled V-8 OHC engine was made in 1934, so I guess you are wrong. maybe you talk of a different engine (DOHC). Tatra air cooled engines as early as 1932 with the Tatra 57B. Which pre-dates all VW aircooled right? --- Andrew Grebneff wrote: > >Then he went on to tell me how the Germans stole > ALL > >aircooled technology from the Czech's during WW2. > >Said Porsche, VW both stole designs from the > Czech's > > Really? Funny, the Beetle and its engines date back > to 1936... > > If I remember rightly the Tatra V8 is DOHC 16V, and > has been around since > at least the 60s. > > Andrew Grebneff > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > > VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & > seashell nut > Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, > Classic, Plus > *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the > market, > always remember that we are the TOP 10% > *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, > Compaq, Tandy and > millions of others are by far the most popular with > about 70 million > machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the > other hand, may note that > cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and > that numbers alone do not > denote a higher life form - New York Times, November > 26, 1991 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 06:55:21 -0800 Reply-To: '80 Westy Pokey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: '80 Westy Pokey Subject: Would this work on an Air -Cooled? (was : A/C system auction closing soon. ) Comments: To: radish150@EARTHLINK.NET Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 I have an air cooled westy. Would this work for me or is it different because its from a water cooled westy? Thanks, Chris On Sun, 25 March 2001, radish150 wrote: > > Hi, sorry for the shameless capitalism, but wanted to let everyone know I have a complete AC system conversion up on ebay now and it's closing tomorrow, no bids > yet, 500 bucks. Campbell Nelson Seattle wants 750 for the same thing, when they have them. > > thanks > mark... Thanks, Chris Gronski '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable www.vanagon.org & .ca www.gronski.com, .org, & .ca www.nineeleven.org & .ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:50:49 -0330 Reply-To: Karl Dawe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Dawe Subject: Re: ETKA CD tree Comments: To: hexbus In-Reply-To: <4.2.0.58.20010325133056.00ab5a50@pop.mindspring.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sign me up to burn... Always willing to do my part. :) Karl. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of hexbus Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 3:09 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: ETKA CD tree OK, cool, there are two of us. We could give it another day, or two or three, to see how many people are willing to burn. Then have signups for about a week, divide people who want the CD up to the people who can burn, and go from there. The B&P method works nicely, because then the people burning don't have to go to the post office, affix stamps, affix mailing labels, anything like that. Those who want the CDs do a little bit extra BS with the self-addressed, pre-stamped mailer (postage is $.97 for one cd with sleeve, use stamps, not meter strips), they're the ones who run to the post office and fill out shit, not the burners. So, if you're burning, all you gotta do is throw away the outside mailer, pop the blank in your burner, put the finished CD in the pre-prepared mailer that's going out, and put 'em in your mailbox for the postman. No fiber mailers would be the other rule, you gotta use bubble mailers. If nobody else wants to run it, I will. There's me and Marty, so far. The missing ingredient is the original CD. :) Kyle Fromm 89 Wolfsburg Carat/Weekender(?) - Hexbus 84 Scirocco - Jibboo At 01:20 PM 3/25/2001 -0500, marty wrote: >I'm with you Kyle, I have a burner and I'm willing to make as many of these >as the list wants for just the cost of shipping. I get 100 blank cd's for >$25 and have a post office a 1/4 mile down the road. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:24:31 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Keller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Keller Subject: Painting Bumpers Comments: To: Todd Last MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Todd, Assuming you want the raised portion black and it's black now why not mask it over. Blow the color on the uppper and lower areas. Then unmask the black area, and clearcoat the entire panel. This is the procedure I used. Except I had made repairs which required the black areas to be coated. I bypassed the black epoxy paint stage by using black epoxy primer for the paint preparation. Sincerely, Mark Keller 91 Carat Cowichan Bay, B.C. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:28:56 -0800 Reply-To: '80 Westy Pokey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: '80 Westy Pokey Subject: What should I do to get ready for spring? Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 Admittedly, I did not do much to put Pokey away for the winter. I drained the fresh water tank, changed the oil, had her rust checked & undercoated, took the battery out then put her in an unheated garage for the winter. I realize I could have done more, or even made some mistakes but hindsight is 20/20. My question now is what do I do to get her ready for spring? I did not start her at all over the winter. Thanks, Chris Gronski '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable www.vanagon.org & .ca www.gronski.com, .org, & .ca www.nineeleven.org & .ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:51:22 -0500 Reply-To: Kevin Davis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Davis Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: t In-Reply-To: <3ABD77C5.7A48C754@primenet.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit black is my vote. Kevin Camden, ME > From: t > Reply-To: t > Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:44:53 -0800 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! > > Damn! Tough call... I really like the black, and I like the Euro styling > of the yellow... > > Ok, OK,... > > Black.. and what's the paint code on that yeller paint. Pretty sharp > (and you won't lose it in a parking lot) > > tim o'brien > > John Rodgers wrote: >> >> I really like that yellow grill. I wonder what it would look like if the >> lower grill were also yellow! >> >> John Rodgers >> 88 GL Driver >> >>> Michael Sullivan wrote: >>> >>> Dear List, >>> >>> Sunny is now sporting South African quad grills thanx to Ken Wilford. >>> In fact, I have two sets, one of which, for fun, I had painted to >>> match Sunny's Ginster yellow body. My wife really likes it. But I >>> thought I'd ask the list to chime in and tell me which version YOU >>> like: standard black or painted to match the body. >>> >>> You can see the two images here: >>> http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/headlights/ >>> >>> Looking forward to your comments! >>> >>> Michael J. Sullivan > > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:05:40 -0500 Reply-To: Kevin Davis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Davis Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin In-Reply-To: <014601c0b5b7$d79199a0$5d086d18@ivideon.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I agree. Plastikote brand makes what they call "flat" black. It is more of a satin sheen black that basically restores these parts to new-looking condition. Of course, test it on the back of the part first to see if you like it. It also works great on the rear air vents, gas filler box (westy) and gas cap. It dries in about 10 minutes. Great stuff IMO. Kevin > From: Marshall Ruskin > Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin > Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 23:44:36 -0600 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! > > Gloss black doesn't look too good - I tried it. A black paint meant for trim > works better. > > Marshall Ruskin > 84 Westy > >> Paul, >> Laquer will attack plastic. >> As long as it's enamel your OK >> >> ______________ >> |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ >> | | | | >> ||-(())----(())-| >> >> Terry 85 GL > > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:20:24 -0600 Reply-To: Lee Roesner Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Lee Roesner Organization: Paradigm Graphic Design Subject: need new mechanic/chicago area MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello list, My mechanic "The Coachhouse" went out of business in McHenry, IL. I now need to find a new, qualified Vanagon mechanic in northern Illinois area. Any recommendations out there? I called a VW dealer for a parts quote and after I told him the vehicle and part I needed a price on, he asked "what kind of van is it?" Yikes. Thanks, Lee -- Lee Roesner Paradigm Graphic Design & Web Development 710-B Landwehr Road Northbrook, IL 60062 Phone 847-509-8704 Fax 847-480-5701 Portfolio: http://www.roesner.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:23:21 -0500 Reply-To: koloski@TOAD.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Koloski Subject: VIDEO of Tiico engine conversion installation Comments: cc: peterb@tiico.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I finally edited the amateur quality home video of the installation of a Tiico 2.0 inline 4 cylinder engine into my Vanagon (using only hand tools and a hydraulic floor jack). The video is slightly longer than 2 hours. I'm happy with my new engine. I am getting 22.5 mpg and the van has more power and a higher top speed than it did with the 2.1 liter wasserboxer. The first three people who e-mail me their mailing address can have a copy of this video for free WITH THE UNDERSTANDING that they AGREE TO make a copy of the video and pass it on to somebody on the list for free. First -class postage for a videotape is $1.85 anywhere in the US. The total cost of mailing out three video tapes will set me back less than ten bucks. I will post the e-mail addresses of the three people I send free video tapes to (on the vanagon.com message board) so that list members can ask you for a free tape (sounds like a chain letter, doesn't it?). Or you can send a check for ten bucks to: John Koloski 511 Oakton Road Odenton, MD 21113 I'll donate five dollars of each check to vanagon.com and get filthy rich with the other five (minus approx. $3 for expenses). If you go this route I will not post your e-mail address and you will remain forever anonymous, as well as ten dollars poorer. _________________________________________________________________________ This mail sent via toadmail.com, web e-mail @ ToadNet - want to go fast? http://www.toadmail.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:43:23 -0500 Reply-To: Schmidt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Schmidt Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Kevin Davis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ! Has anyone tried that "forever black" stuff from RMMW? It is said to make faded plastic trim look like new trim with armour-all on it. Is this true? Jay >I agree. Plastikote brand makes what they call "flat" black. It is more of a >satin sheen black that basically restores these parts to new-looking >condition. Of course, test it on the back of the part first to see if you >like it. It also works great on the rear air vents, gas filler box (westy) >and gas cap. It dries in about 10 minutes. Great stuff IMO. > > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:35:09 -0500 Reply-To: Andrew Fox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Fox Subject: Re: broken antenna Comments: To: marty MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Marty, Don't worry about breaking that black plastic base piece b/c it gets replaced when you replace the antennae. Just get the old antennae and base out any way you can (hacksaw, dremmel...). That thin nut gets stuck all the time just cut it off. More about anennae replacement: There is a antennae replacement how-to on the ftp section of the vanagon.com site. I just replaced mine and used an antennae from a toyota (not sure which model). Just go to a good car stereo place and they'll find one that fits. Mine was $13 new and works great, it unscrews at the base for easy removal and is solid not hollow like the vanagon stock one. One more tip on antennae removal: I was unable to remove my stereo b/c i needed a special key (not a din key) made by the manuafacturer. Instead i bought a motorola antennae splicing kit at radio shack for $1.45 and was able to keep the existing antenna connected to the radio and splice the new one behind the insturment cluster, also great for extending an antennae wire. Good luck Andrew Fox marty cc: Sent by: Vanagon Subject: broken antenna Mailing List 03/24/01 10:21 AM Please respond to marty Hello Listers!! I got my battery in, ordered a Bentley's (not here yet) and parts for a tune-up. I'd like to start working on the antenna that appears to have been broken off at the base. The only thing left is the black plastic antenna base piece and the rubber seal (which is cracked and falling apart). I notice 2 flat surfaces on the plastic piece that appear to be for removing it and I tried turning it a little with a wrench only to have the rubber crack a little more. I thought I'd consult the wisdom of the list before I continued any further. Marty 85 GL 1.9 (status: needs tune-up & exhaust BAD) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:40:05 -0800 Reply-To: Bill Kasper Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Kasper Subject: Re: VIDEO of Tiico engine conversion installation In-Reply-To: <985623801.3abf6cf927205@webmail.toad.net> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit on 3/26/01 8:23 AM, John Koloski at koloski@TOAD.NET wrote: > I finally edited the amateur quality home video of the installation of a Tiico > 2.0 inline 4 cylinder engine into my Vanagon (using only hand tools and a > hydraulic floor jack). that's a hell of a job. last time i edited amateur quality home video, i had to use a pneumatic film cutter and a mig torch...the floor jack is a great idea, though! sorry. i missed friday. bill '87 syncro westfalia http://www.scruznet.com/~cikasper/pics/westy/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:43:37 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: 2 Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Morning, folks. Today I have two questions for the list. Here goes... 1. According to Haynes, the dash lights just push into their plastic sockets. I untwisted the sockets and removed them from the instrument panel, but I'll be durned if I can get the lamps themselves out of their plastic holders. What's the trick? 2. Anyone know of a good way to clean up screws and fasteners (e.g., bolts, washers, etc.)? As I remove and replace components, I'd like to reuse as much hardware as possible but remove any rust or scale that's formed. I'll be waiting for your comments. Thanks. Dave in KC 95 Westy (with working brake lights) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/westy.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:46:33 -0800 Reply-To: Theresa Rennert Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Theresa Rennert Subject: Re: OXS light Comments: To: timnew@PACBELL.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed It's your o2 sensor. I just dealt with this in my 82. Good luck!! Trea From: timnew Reply-To: timnew To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: OXS light Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:52:28 -0800 My OXS light just came on, what are the possible causes for this? It seems to be running fine. The manual says it comes on to indicate a scheduled service. I don't think that's it because my odometer hasn't worked for a few thousand miles. Tim New 86 GL _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:24:13 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: AFC Tweaking Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I started tweaking the AFC on my '85 1.9l Digijet on Saturday. I tied in the voltmeter to read what the O2 sensor is feeding to the FI. I started by moving 4 notches leaner (clockwise). It made very little, if any, difference in the performance or the O2 sensor output. I then moved it 2 more notches and disconnected the O2 sensor from the system and fed it directly to the voltmeter. It runs leaner with O2 sensor on-line, so the ECU is doing something to adjust the mixture. I'll take this as a good sign! I then went 2 more notches for a total of eight. I am going to leave it there for now. It seems like the ECU will adjust the mixture to whatever it wants. The only way to set the mixture would be to run open loop (O2 sensor disconnected) and continue adjusting down on the AFC spring. At some point, the spring might be too tight and affect the off idle response? Jay ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:12:47 -0500 Reply-To: "Timothy J. Hannink" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Timothy J. Hannink" Subject: Re: 2 Questions Light bulb remover and rust converter Comments: To: Dave Baker In-Reply-To: <006d01c0b613$e822c300$947c1a41@kc.rr.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I usually soak fasteners in a product called OSPHO, which is a rust converter available at most hardware stores, only cause I have it around for other uses around the house. As for the light bulbs, I have a bulb removal tool that was left over from my old telephone repair days. Jensen tools has one at: http://www.jensentools2.com/family.asp?lang=eng&parent_id=8690&parent_name=L amp+Extractor&dept_id=405. If you're real careful with a needle nose pliers, you can sometimes get it out intact, but if its burned out anyway you can remove it in pieces. Tim Hannink Winter Park, Florida Goldibox - 1987 Wolfsburg Edition Westfalia Camper -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Dave Baker Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 11:44 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 2 Questions Morning, folks. Today I have two questions for the list. Here goes... 1. According to Haynes, the dash lights just push into their plastic sockets. I untwisted the sockets and removed them from the instrument panel, but I'll be durned if I can get the lamps themselves out of their plastic holders. What's the trick? 2. Anyone know of a good way to clean up screws and fasteners (e.g., bolts, washers, etc.)? As I remove and replace components, I'd like to reuse as much hardware as possible but remove any rust or scale that's formed. I'll be waiting for your comments. Thanks. Dave in KC 95 Westy (with working brake lights) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/westy.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:51:49 -0500 Reply-To: sevenkevin@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Hayden Subject: Vanagon Still Won't A Go-Go!! Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hi There!! :-) So far I checked all vacuum lines and they are fine. With the stock hall type distributor, I have no spark. Is there a way to check it?? Also, will a distributor from a Golf, Jetta, Rabbit, etc fit?? I have access to one of these, but no Vanagons! I was told that the distributor tells the computer what to do, and I'm not getting any spark or gas into the cylinder. I've tried to flood it and the plugs are still dry. LIke I've said before (so you have a brief history), I was driving on to the on-ramp of the highway when my 1985 1.9 4 speed died and I couldn't get it restarted, so I had it towed home to work on it. I hooked the timing light up to each of the plug wires and no spark was present. Next, I checked the power relay and fuel pump relay and they checked out fine too (but I don't know if there is a fuse for this??)! After this, I checked vacuum lines and bleeder valve on the metal T-fitting to check for presence of gas--these checked out alright. The only distributor that I could find, in a bone yard, was a point type distributor, so I dragged it home and hooked up the single wire to the trigger wire on the MSD 6A unit and sure enough, I have plenty of spark to the distributor cap and out but no gas to the plugs!! Now, I should mention that I disconnected a green wire that goes to the ignition module wiring harness that originally went to the negative side of the coil...do I need this wire hooked up to get gas?? Or, is the computer the culprit?? ANY help saving what little sanity I have left my wife will really appreciate!!! Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:10:03 -0500 Reply-To: Bill Knight Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Knight Subject: Re: 2 Questions In-Reply-To: <006d01c0b613$e822c300$947c1a41@kc.rr.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit #1: The replacement lamps come with the plastic holder attached. I just bought a set at the local dealer, they were $2 each. #2: If the hardware pieces are really cruddy, soak them in kerosene, otherwise give them a shot of WD-40. Bill Knight Raleigh, NC 84 Westy Wolfsburg 91 Vanagon Carat -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Dave Baker Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 11:44 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 2 Questions Morning, folks. Today I have two questions for the list. Here goes... 1. According to Haynes, the dash lights just push into their plastic sockets. I untwisted the sockets and removed them from the instrument panel, but I'll be durned if I can get the lamps themselves out of their plastic holders. What's the trick? 2. Anyone know of a good way to clean up screws and fasteners (e.g., bolts, washers, etc.)? As I remove and replace components, I'd like to reuse as much hardware as possible but remove any rust or scale that's formed. I'll be waiting for your comments. Thanks. Dave in KC 95 Westy (with working brake lights) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/westy.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:26:08 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Drillock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Drillock Subject: Re: Vanagon Still Won't A Go-Go!! Comments: To: sevenkevin@WEBTV.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is the stock hall sender that tells the ECU that the engine is turning and then the ECU uses that info to pulse the injectors and supply gas. This has nothing to do with the spark as that is only used to fire the spark plugs. Putting in a points distributor means the engine will never run even though the plugs are firing. This is a clear example of the need for a Digitool. You may not have 12 volts at the ECU. Mark Kevin Hayden wrote: > > Hi There!! :-) > > So far I checked all vacuum lines and they are fine. With the stock > hall type distributor, I have no spark. Is there a way to check it?? > Also, will a distributor from a Golf, Jetta, Rabbit, etc fit?? I have > access to one of these, but no Vanagons! I was told that the > distributor tells the computer what to do, and I'm not getting any spark > or gas into the cylinder. I've tried to flood it and the plugs are > still dry. LIke I've said before (so you have a brief history), I was > driving on to the on-ramp of the highway when my 1985 1.9 4 speed died > and I couldn't get it restarted, so I had it towed home to work on it. > I hooked the timing light up to each of the plug wires and no spark was > present. Next, I checked the power relay and fuel pump relay and they > checked out fine too (but I don't know if there is a fuse for this??)! > After this, I checked vacuum lines and bleeder valve on the metal > T-fitting to check for presence of gas--these checked out alright. > > The only distributor that I could find, in a bone yard, was a point type > distributor, so I dragged it home and hooked up the single wire to the > trigger wire on the MSD 6A unit and sure enough, I have plenty of spark > to the distributor cap and out but no gas to the plugs!! > > Now, I should mention that I disconnected a green wire that goes to the > ignition module wiring harness that originally went to the negative side > of the coil...do I need this wire hooked up to get gas?? Or, is the > computer the culprit?? > > ANY help saving what little sanity I have left my wife will really > appreciate!!! > > Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:37:34 -0500 Reply-To: "Dave C." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Dave C." Subject: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam...love the Spam---NOT!! Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable >This is an updated version (3/26/01) of a previously sent message: {As Dave dons his Nomex fire suit, he starts typing and out spills the following:} Curious this point should arise again, as I've suggested closing the list t= o members recently too. I sensed some flack for the suggestion as I was "adding to the junk" & I should just hit the delete key. I've been subscribed now for about 3 years I think. In the past 6 months or so, the junk has increased from none to quite a few almost every day. On 2/17, I started keeping track even. See below the signature line. (I know, very Type A personality!). Also consider this: (my math may not be totally accurate but...) assume an average of 5k per message X average of 2.5 messages/day (this will only get worse) X 365 days in the year =3D 4,562 k per year of crap in our archives and passing through our system(s). X 10 years that adds up 45,625 k of crap. It all adds up. There are easy workarounds to a closed list. One can access the list remotely by opening a free e-mail account on yahoo, or one of the other man= y sources, and subscribe that way so they can post to the list from the road in an emergency. Set that account to NOMail while home and turn it on prio= r to departure. Simple. All that crap will only increase over time and our archives will contain all that stuff as well. At one time I read that all unsubscribed addresses were held and passed on to the list only after someone looked at them. I guess that wasn't or isn'= t happening. Tom, Ron? Will you comment? I reassert that we please close the list. At least put it to a vote. Cheers, Dave C. Williamsburg, VA zzzzzzzzz__ |E[__] [__]|[_]\\ | _DC&SP | _ || * * * =3D-( )---------( )--=3D '85 GL Westy (His) '91 Cabriolet (Hers) =AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD=AD The Data: Date:2/17/01 Sender: 8J4J5EeSY@LYCOS.COM Subject: The TRUTH About Online Success! Date:2/17/01 Sender: mrbmms_00@WORKMAIL.COM Subject: "THE" Internet Opportunity Of The New Millennium!! 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Date: 3/25/01 Sender: starfree@WAM.CO.ZA Subject: ADV ADLT: FREE Hot Hardcore PICTURES - No Credit Cards Needed - No Gimmicks ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:45:07 -0500 Reply-To: Karl Ploessl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Ploessl Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: To: Michael Sullivan Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" my vote goes to yellow (but only if the lower grill is yellow too). Karl. Karl '81 Westy "Jenny" Wilmington, DE ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:51:47 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: Oh yes they can! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 18:33:07 +1200 From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... Mac users need not apply Macintoshes cannot open ETKA CDs. With virtual PC or the "other" program, MAC's become a PC. mark... ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:46:14 -0500 Reply-To: Jeff Birk Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jeff Birk Subject: Re: ETKA CD tree I won't sign anything but I'm a burner and a CDrom owner...guess I have both! Jeff Birk ver 5.3.06 NA thru 2001 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:57:28 -0800 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Re: Fwd: RE: VDO Oil Pressure sender specs Comments: To: afox@usgs.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html


I have an 84, so I don't have the dual sender/buzzer set-up.  Both depot and bus boys carry the parts.  But I believe I'm swapping out the vdo adapter hose for hard plumbing once I get the time.  I'm also thinking the dual sender isn't worth the mystery.  Stick with the .3 bar VW sender unit.  Just use a "T" instead to enable both to be used.  The question to ask is are you having oil pressure problems? If so, are you prepared to run the wire, install the sender, and mount the gauge somewhere on you dashboard (plus electrical work)?  It's a nice gauge and it really narrows down problems and lets you know if your engine is the culprit..  But replace the VW senders at the same time and consider your oil pressure relief valve before considering engine work.

Brian

>From: "Andrew Fox"
>To: Brian Cochran
>Subject: Re: Fwd: RE: VDO Oil Pressure sender specs
>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:15:57 -0500
>Hey Brian,
>
>Where did you get the dual sender and the VDO gauge? Is it worth putting
>the gauge in. I mean are there times the buzzer goes off and the gauge
>says everything is OK?
>
>Thanks!
>Andrew Fox
>86 West w/ oil light woes
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:51:07 -0500 Reply-To: Karl Ploessl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Ploessl Subject: forever black Comments: To: Schmidt Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" used it on my '84 GTI (RIP) black fender trims. cleaned the plastic with cyclohexane (which i just had handy, any other solvent for degreasing will do) and spray painted. looked good and was holding up quite nicely. got it at a local car paint shop. Karl. Karl '81 Westy "Jenny" Wilmington, DE ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:13:39 -0700 Reply-To: The Blackhams Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Blackhams Subject: Fast German Auto, Santa Ana, Calif Comments: To: type2@type2.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am adding up the individual engine part costs and a rebuilt engine might be the way to go. Does anyone have any experience with Fast German Auto, Santa Ana, CA.? They have a rebuilt engine available for: $899 with rebuilt heads $1250 with new AMC heads Email me directly with you comments Have fun Steve Blackham Centerville, Utah 77 Bus converted to camper (westy top) 87 Vanagon Weekender 82 Vanagon, ( Current project) "Is Density a four letter word?" ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:16:35 -0000 Reply-To: John Pronk Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Pronk Organization: Stratos New Zealand Ltd Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: RAlanen@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00BB_01C0B629.463051A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00BB_01C0B629.463051A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Frank,=20 I would be interested in a copy of the ETKA CD. Would you post to New = Zealand?( it wouln't be any more difficult than sending to the US) Will $10.00 cover this? I presume it is US$10.00 not CAD$10.00? Regards John. Auckland New Zealand. ------=_NextPart_000_00BB_01C0B629.463051A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Frank,
I would be interested in a copy of the = ETKA CD.=20 Would you post to New Zealand?( it wouln't be any more difficult than = sending to=20 the US)
Will $10.00 cover this? I presume it is = US$10.00=20 not CAD$10.00?
Regards
John.
Auckland
New Zealand.
 ------=_NextPart_000_00BB_01C0B629.463051A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:17:47 -0700 Reply-To: Patrick Bryson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Patrick Bryson Subject: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam...love the Spam---NOT!! Comments: To: "Dave C." MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I Agree. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave C." To: Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 11:37 AM Subject: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam...love the Spam---NOT!! > > I reassert that we please close the list. At least put it to a vote. > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:31:35 -0500 Reply-To: Bob S Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob S Subject: Re: need new mechanic/chicago area Comments: To: paradigm@ALLEGRAPRINTING.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I go to Northern Illinois University in Dekalb-its in northern Illinois, hence my school's name ;) Anyway, I would highly recommend a place called Chuck's Auto Service, which is located in Sycamore (next to Dekalb) Anyway, heres the address & ph. # Chucks Auto Center 1625 Dekalb Ave. Sycamore, IL 60178 (815)899-1184 -Bob 1990 Vanagon Carat (Shagvan) >From: Lee Roesner >Reply-To: Lee Roesner >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: need new mechanic/chicago area >Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:20:24 -0600 > >Hello list, > >My mechanic "The Coachhouse" went out of business in McHenry, IL. I now >need to find a new, qualified Vanagon mechanic in northern Illinois >area. Any recommendations out there? I called a VW dealer for a parts >quote and after I told him the vehicle and part I needed a price on, he >asked "what kind of van is it?" Yikes. > >Thanks, >Lee > >-- >Lee Roesner >Paradigm Graphic Design & Web Development >710-B Landwehr Road >Northbrook, IL 60062 > >Phone 847-509-8704 >Fax 847-480-5701 >Portfolio: http://www.roesner.net _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:27:35 -0600 Reply-To: Edward S Maikranz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Edward S Maikranz Subject: Re: [T2] Fast German Auto, Santa Ana, Calif Comments: To: steph@uswest.net Comments: cc: type2@type2.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would be interested in this as well. I see a price of about $940 from AVP. Interested in a 1.8 or 2.0 for my 74. Ed On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:13:39 -0700 "The Blackhams" writes: > I am adding up the individual engine part costs and a rebuilt engine > might > be the way to go. > > Does anyone have any experience with Fast German Auto, Santa Ana, > CA.? > > They have a rebuilt engine available for: > > $899 with rebuilt heads > > $1250 with new AMC heads > > > Email me directly with you comments > > Have fun > > Steve Blackham > Centerville, Utah > 77 Bus converted to camper (westy top) > 87 Vanagon Weekender > 82 Vanagon, ( Current project) > "Is Density a four letter word?" > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To leave the list, send an UNSUBSCRIBE message to > TYPE2-REQUEST@TYPE2.COM > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:51:30 -0700 Reply-To: DrCory Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: DrCory Subject: Re: vanagon Digest - 25 Mar 2001 to 26 Mar 2001 - Special issue (#2001-370) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Matt: I have had great success with "Simple Green" Cory ==== Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:17:07 -0500 From: MF Subject: Vanagon was here Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner that actually works? I need to = remove all of my vanagon deposits (oil and brake fluid mostly ) from the = conctrete. Thanks in advance Matt -------------------- Life is not what happens to you... But how you choose to respond to it!!! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:09:40 -0800 Reply-To: Jere Hawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jere Hawn Subject: Bearing replacement follow up and Q MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, I went to replace one rear bearing, I found the axle nut to be not very tight, the bearings were ok. With a cotter pin in the nut how did it loosen or am I seeing the prelude to bearing failure? TIA Jere 90 GL 88 GL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:14:38 EDT Reply-To: "o. dominguez" <008@NETVISTA.TORNILLO.K12.TX.US> Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "o. dominguez" <008@NETVISTA.TORNILLO.K12.TX.US> Subject: Re: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam...love the Spam---NOT!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii i've been a subscriber for two years (if that's worth anything) and i could do without the spam!!! od tornillo, tx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ o. dominguez ths science tornillo, tx. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:21:02 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: vanagon Digest - 25 Mar 2001 to 26 Mar 2001 - Special issue (#2001-370) Comments: To: DrCory Comments: cc: moby@coastalnet.com In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII something else that works is hand cleaner, like Fast Orange or Goop. I had a bug with a busted pushrod cover leak all of it's juices in my folks driveway! Yikes. After cleaning up the initial mess, i put a few handfulls of Goop on the spots, scrubbed it in and let it sit for an hour. Repeated once and the drive was cleaner in that spot than elsewhere. I haven't tried simple green in this intance, but in general, simple green does rock. -matthew Matthew Pollard http://www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 Dept. of Chemistry http://www.chem.uidaho.edu University of Idaho http://www.uidaho.edu ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:24:26 -0500 Reply-To: dianne gigler Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dianne gigler Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read In-Reply-To: <22.13c5f491.27eff359@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am definitely interested. How do I make payment and to whom? Dianne --On Sunday, March 25, 2001 8:20 PM +0000 JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote: > the $25 he is charging is for the blank cd, his time burning the ETKA on > it, and his time and cost pack/shipping. The original that the copies > were made from was a 2000 version. if y'all dont think this is fair, > then he wont bother. > i have my copy, he has his. yes he is aware of copyright issues but get > real folks.. have you heard of Napster? not like this is the first > time anyone has done this. Anyway thats why he was only charging $25 to > cover his time, materials and ship. > > i just thought some of you out there would like a copy too. > apparently not, as it seems to be bringing too much critisizm. > > chris ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:40:25 -0800 Reply-To: Road Camper Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Road Camper Subject: Question on Ronal wheels for sale.. Comments: To: Syncro@egroups.com, subaruvanagon@egroups.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Just spoke with the guy at Ronalusa.com (ed. note: NOT very friendly if you ask me) . They have R36 wheels on sale, with a ZERO offset. He says they fit fine.. Any ideas from the gallery as to what this wheel would look/fit like on a Vanagon? They are 16X7. -TIA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:06:23 -0500 Reply-To: "Stanley, Kerry" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Stanley, Kerry" Subject: Re: Bearing replacement follow up and Q MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi all, I've had my passenger side super tight nut become loose twice. Once the bearing was already disintegrating, and the other time the bearing had started to make noise when making left hand turns (I guess it throws weight to the bearing on outside of the turn). I replaced the bearing and the noise is gone. Never had a bearing problem on the driver side. I have another bearing for replacement but I couldn't get that nut off, although I haven't tried all the approaches described on the list. Kerry '86 syncro, 177K kstanley@cas.org -----Original Message----- From: Jere Hawn [mailto:jbrschawn@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 3:10 PM To: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com Subject: Bearing replacement follow up and Q Hi all, I went to replace one rear bearing, I found the axle nut to be not very tight, the bearings were ok. With a cotter pin in the nut how did it loosen or am I seeing the prelude to bearing failure? TIA Jere 90 GL 88 GL ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:21:48 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Brolite Satinetch and VHT Black Oxide Case Paint both are run-resistant (runs dry out and disappear) and give great satin-black finishes. I've used both on bike engines. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:28:02 MST Reply-To: Joe Fortino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Fortino Subject: raddle noise 85 gl Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ok good ear people, anyone on the list ever hear a raddle noise near the right rear side of the motor when idling.. I have a 85 GL and after some hill driving I've developed a little raddle, hmmm rod? oil level is good, maybe its time for an oil change? thanks Joe VW addict ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:53:42 -0700 Reply-To: s_j_wacker@JUNO.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: s_j_wacker@JUNO.COM Subject: Re: vanagon Digest - 25 Mar 2001 to 26 Mar 2001 - Special issue (#2001-370) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try "Oil Eater", biodegradable, works great on just about everything. Available at Costco and Sam's Club. Steve & Jo Ann Wacker Grand Junction, Co. 90 Carat 86 Syncro On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:21:02 -0800 Matthew Pollard writes: > something else that works is hand cleaner, like Fast Orange or Goop. > I > had a bug with a busted pushrod cover leak all of it's juices in my > folks driveway! > Yikes. After cleaning up the initial mess, i put a few handfulls of > Goop > on the spots, scrubbed it in and let it sit for an hour. Repeated > once and > the drive was cleaner in that spot than elsewhere. > > I haven't tried simple green in this intance, but in general, simple > green > does rock. > > -matthew > > Matthew Pollard http://www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 > Dept. of Chemistry http://www.chem.uidaho.edu > University of Idaho http://www.uidaho.edu > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 21:45:36 -0500 Reply-To: b_everett@ALTAVISTA.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: b_everett@ALTAVISTA.NET Subject: Opportunity Knocks...Are you home??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Earn Extra Income! Looking for an opportunity to work part-time..full time or make a career change from the comfort of your own home? Interested in offering an innovative and worthwhile product? ...Are you motivated? ...Are you serious? ...Are you READY?!! We are! And we're ready to teach you! Do not hesitate! To find out how you can get started simply reply with your: NAME: ADDRESS: TELEPHONE NUMBER: BEST TIME TO CONTACT: We will contact you shortly! ********************************** To be removed from this list please reply with "remove" in the subject line. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 02:00:52 PM Reply-To: 1JH18dsUK@NETSCAPE.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: 1JH18dsUK@NETSCAPE.NET Subject: Re: Your Cash Flow Express Subscription> We've reserved your subscription to the FREE e-newsletter "Cash Flow Express"! It's full of field-tested, profit-generating secrets to make money with discounted mortgages, real estate options and other cash flows. You'll learn: "The Safest No-Brainer Investment In The World, and It Pays 31%!" "7 Secrets of Successful Negotiators" "10 Principles of Financial Independence" "Big Profits From Mobile Home Notes" "How To Protect Yourself From Property Flipping Scams" "Creating Deal Flow: 3 Simple Things That Will Bring You Transactions" and much more. To get your no-strings attached FREE SUBSCRIPTION (you can cancel any time), send an e-mail to vanguard103@excite.com with the word "subscribe" in the subject. P.S. We'll also give a FREE subscription to the Cash Flow Express to up to 5 of your friends. Just forward this message to them -- they'll thank you! Transmissions to you by the sender of 'this' email will be stopped promptly by sending an e-mail with "REMOVE" in the subject line. Simply hit reply and send and we will remove you from our database. Please Note-This is a one time mailing.Thank you. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:28:26 -0800 Reply-To: VW Addict aka The Bus Nut Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: VW Addict aka The Bus Nut Subject: Stuff for sale and Diesel Rabbit Wanted Comments: To: wetwesties@yahoogroups.com, type2@type2.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello all, I am needing to clean out my garage and have a few things for sale. 34ICT Webers good used fit type 4. Come with manifolds and all hex bar linkage. These were on a 73 Bus and would work great to replace the stock PDSITs or progressive Weber. $200 OBO Type 4/Vanagon 2.0L crank and rods. Good used set, can still see the polish on the journals. Core value alone is $300, will sell for $125. 68-72 and 73 Cots(upper) from Westy. one has good canvas, other does not. $30 for all. Now for the WANTED, I need a Diesel Rabbit(or other Diesel VW) in the Western Washington area.(Tacoma-ish) Condition not important, must be cheap, running is good but not required. Will trade for the above. My 85 Westy gets 16MPG and I can not afford to use it to commute, over $20 every 2 days, OUCH! If you have one or know of one, please call or write me. PS I also have a nice 72 Super for sale ===== Scott Solomon AKA "VW addict" 85 Westy Multi-Van 83 Vanagon D parts heap 76 Triple White 'Vert 72 Super Beetle(FOR SALE) http://www.geocities.com/solomon_scott/ See my FOR SALE area __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:21:06 +1000 Reply-To: Ray Hunnam Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ray Hunnam Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ok Andrew I'll bite Aren't 80-84 Air Cooled. Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Grebneff" To: Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:00 PM Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... > >Forget Bentley. 19.16 states INCORRECTLY to raise the front end 10 cm. > >This won't do it. > >Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a useable table of contents > >and index. Bentley misses the mark. > >Anyway, Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front AT LEAST 40 cm! > >Follow the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your Bentley. > > > the Bentley manual for 80-84 Vanagons says "approximately 40cm" > > > Andrew Grebneff > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > > VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut > Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus > *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, > always remember that we are the TOP 10% > *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and > millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million > machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that > cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not > denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:20:17 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0312_01C0B610.A5162DC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0312_01C0B610.A5162DC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed. Could any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the system = and now I need to know. Thanks in advance. Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_0312_01C0B610.A5162DC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The Bentley does not say which way is = open or=20 closed.
Could any of you tell me right = now.  I am just=20 busy emptying the system and now I need to know.  Thanks in=20 advance.
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_0312_01C0B610.A5162DC0-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:02:57 -0800 Reply-To: dawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dawn Subject: diesel parts needed! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am still looking for diesel parts to do my conversion any help i would appreciate Darrel 86 golf engine looking for home in my 88 vanagon! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:19:06 -0400 Reply-To: Chad Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad Subject: WTB BENTLY MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit anyone have a bently for sale?????? I need one that covers an 85GL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:34:19 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: diesel parts needed! Comments: To: dawn In-Reply-To: <008401c0b66a$7008fe00$9ff664ce@dmoroughan> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Darrel, post what you need and all of us will keep out eyes open. Cheers Mattehw Matthew Pollard http://www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 Dept. of Chemistry http://www.chem.uidaho.edu University of Idaho http://www.uidaho.edu On Mon, 26 Mar 2001, dawn wrote: > I am still looking for diesel parts to do my conversion any help i > would appreciate > Darrel > 86 golf engine looking for home in my 88 vanagon! > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:42:16 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - Understood MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0324_01C0B613.B774E8A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0324_01C0B613.B774E8A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back is = closed. No more discussion is needed on this issue. Thanks David. Zoltan ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Zoltan=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed. Could any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the = system and now I need to know. Thanks in advance. Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_0324_01C0B613.B774E8A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have received the info from David = Beierl that=20 forward is open, back is closed.  No more discussion is needed on = this=20 issue.  Thanks David.
Zoltan
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Zoltan=20
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 = 4:20=20 PM
Subject: REAR HEATER = VALVE

The Bentley does not say which way is = open or=20 closed.
Could any of you tell me right = now.  I am=20 just busy emptying the system and now I need to know.  Thanks in=20 advance.
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_0324_01C0B613.B774E8A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:36:06 -0500 Reply-To: Isaac Taylor Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Isaac Taylor Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Comments: cc: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Black!! The Ginster Yellow is a *great* body color, but part of Sunny's magic lays in the extraordinary beautification of humble origins, and the black grills celebrate that contrast; the yellow grill looks a little too pimp-tastic to my eye, as if Sunny were pretending to be something she's not. -Isaac in Cambridge ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:08:17 -0800 Reply-To: aatransaxle@JUNO.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Daryl Christensen Subject: Re: new head gasket split Comments: To: tbf@PACIFIER.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Todd...I have had a couple gaskets split like that in my carreer (having replaced well over a hundred sets)...there is actually a measurment and gasket thickness guidline that used to be in circulation for the pro's...Might ask Bob at Boston Engine what he thinks....some gaskets are a bit thicker than others and will crush too much after installation...I can try to find a copy if you like. but it is hard to get a selection of gaskets unless you can find a parts house to cut open a few sets and measure (we always had 5 or 8 sets on hand)...never had a second one split on the same car, so you may wan't to just replace it & try.. Daryl of AA Transaxle Duvall, WA.(Seattle area) (425) 788-4070 1-877-377-0773 toll free http://www.aatransaxle.com (web site) On Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:43:39 -0800 Todd Francis writes: > Hi all, After rebuilding a 2.1, I torqued the heads on by the book > with a new German gasket set. The engine ran good and did not leak. > After running the engine only a few miles I put the Vanagon away for > a few days planning to button things up when I had time. In two days > I happened to notice the passenger side head was starting to leak > coolant. I looked at the gasket on the top of the head on the front > corner and the gasket was pushed out funny. I took the head off and > the new rubber gasket had a diagonal split about 3/4 inch long that > cut the sealing face of the gasket in two. Has this happened to > anyone else or did I just get a bad gasket? The heads are the > original heads that came off of the engine. Any ideas? The gaskets > had the VW mark on them so I assume they are OEM. > Thanks, Todd Francis ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:29:50 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: Tatra air cooled V8 conversion? Comments: To: phil stanhope MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit VW paid Tatra a settlement for an alleged infringement of the Beetle CHASSIS design. The single back-bone design was shown by Tatra at the Berlin auto show back when Ferdinand Porsche was busy trying to develop what was to be known as the KDF Wagen, and, eventually, the VW Beetle. Funny enough, Skoda (Another Czech wonder) bought Tatra and VW eventually bought Skoda. What comes around, goes around. I am not familiar with any engine design infringements on part of VW. I know that the early VW flat-four was based on an aircraft design and chosen for its ability to run for long periods of time at, what was considered then, high RPM. This kind of cross-breeding is nothing unusual in the automotive world and we should never expect a pure-bred auto by virtue of its country of origin. Although I am sure they exist, somewhere. Chris '85 Westy. ----- Original Message ----- From: phil stanhope To: Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:48 AM Subject: Re: Tatra air cooled V8 conversion? > "If I remember rightly the Tatra V8 is DOHC 16V, and > has been around since > at least the 60s." > > > Well, the Tatra Air cooled V-8 OHC engine was made in > 1934, so I guess you are wrong. maybe you talk of a > different engine (DOHC). > Tatra air cooled engines as early as 1932 with the > Tatra 57B. Which pre-dates all VW aircooled right? > > > > --- Andrew Grebneff > wrote: > > >Then he went on to tell me how the Germans stole > > ALL > > >aircooled technology from the Czech's during WW2. > > >Said Porsche, VW both stole designs from the > > Czech's > > > > Really? Funny, the Beetle and its engines date back > > to 1936... > > > > If I remember rightly the Tatra V8 is DOHC 16V, and > > has been around since > > at least the 60s. > > > > Andrew Grebneff > > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > > > > VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & > > seashell nut > > Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, > > Classic, Plus > > *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the > > market, > > always remember that we are the TOP 10% > > *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, > > Compaq, Tandy and > > millions of others are by far the most popular with > > about 70 million > > machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the > > other hand, may note that > > cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and > > that numbers alone do not > > denote a higher life form - New York Times, November > > 26, 1991 > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 23:23:40 -0500 Reply-To: Brian Honan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Honan Subject: is High temp all in the thermostat ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi List, I am posting again with my coolant woes. My new Thermostat is an 87 deg. Not sure what the old one was. After my attempts with the coolant bleed my temp was vary high the needle was nearing the top. My thing is I do not want to go spewing antifreeze all over again for no reason. So I think I should try a 80 degree thermostat and then bleed again ? Thanks for the thoughts so far. Brian 87 Gl _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 23:20:46 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Adventurewagen FS, westys FS, vans FS etc.. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_90.1212551f.27f16f1e_boundary" --part1_90.1212551f.27f16f1e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit none of these are mine. as seen in the local auto trader: '82 Adventurewagen highroof camper, auto, 120k mi, excellent cond, sink/stove/fridge/awning, etc (this is the camper conversion with the fixed fiberglass highroof) $4200 obo Oxford, PA call: 610-563-6311 '84 Westfalia, 4spd, 91k mi, phoenixville, pa call 610-933-5821 '91 vanagon GL, weekender interior, 83k mi, 35k on new engine, a/c, burgundy, grey interior. $6800 obo 610-566-6915 media, pa dont respond to me, theyre not mine. chris --part1_90.1212551f.27f16f1e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit none of these are mine.
as seen in the local auto trader:

'82 Adventurewagen highroof camper, auto, 120k mi, excellent cond,
sink/stove/fridge/awning, etc  (this is the camper conversion with the fixed
fiberglass highroof)
$4200 obo Oxford, PA call: 610-563-6311

'84 Westfalia, 4spd, 91k mi, phoenixville, pa    call 610-933-5821

'91 vanagon GL, weekender interior,  83k mi,  35k on new engine, a/c,
burgundy, grey interior. $6800 obo
610-566-6915  media, pa

dont respond to me, theyre not mine.
chris --part1_90.1212551f.27f16f1e_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 23:21:52 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Vanagon was here Comments: To: moby@coastalnet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/26/01 7:14:56 AM, moby@COASTALNET.COM writes: << Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner that actually works? >> Matt, Trisodium phosphate; cheap and effective. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:29:36 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: diesel parts needed! Comments: To: dawn In-Reply-To: <008401c0b66a$7008fe00$9ff664ce@dmoroughan> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have all the Diesel parts coming in my sea container that will be in Quesnel on the 9th of April. *ALL* the [used] parts are there [left and right motor mounts, rubber mounts, left and right hangers, oil pan, oil pump, oil filler tube] that you need to do the conversion with the exception of the bell housing and flywheel. You can use a KEP kit (which I can provide if you like) in place of these parts and you'll get a larger 228mm clutch [Diesel is 115mm] and keep your wasserboxer starter when you are done! I have these parts listed for $800 at http://www.fastforward.ca/germany but for a Vanagon List member I can take $100 off of that price if you don't use a Credit Card to pay. The KEP kit would be new parts and costs $500 USD. David Marshall Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 • Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions • Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales • European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of dawn Sent: March 26, 2001 7:03 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: diesel parts needed! I am still looking for diesel parts to do my conversion any help i would appreciate Darrel 86 golf engine looking for home in my 88 vanagon! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 17:55:04 -0700 Reply-To: jbrush@AROS.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Brush Subject: last word on air cooled oil temp sender? Well my friends, I am slow at getting anything accomplished, but I do get there piece by piece. I asked some time ago about an oil temp sending unit for an air cooled 2.0l 1981 Vanagon (apparently a Kombi ) As usual, the responses were plentiful, and very helpful. In the end, it appeared that I would need to get a new sump plate and drill it out, which seemed quite doable, but not preferrable. Then a few kind souls told me that they had used a sender from VDO that screwed into the oil pan, the only drawback being the clearance around the hole requiring a dremel, or a very thin walled socket, to tighten it down. Finally, after harrassing everyone, and several of you more than once :-) I just ordered the gauge and the sender unit, VDO # 938 802, and figured 'what the heck, something had to work' Got the stuff in three days, drained the oil, and put in the sender unit in place of the drain plug. Fit like a champ, no clearance problems, not even close, and no need for a special thin walled socket. I can tighten it all the way down with my fingers and tons of space. I haven't run the wire yet for the sender. I can't wait to try and figure out how to route that one :) Bottom line, I over asked, you folks over answered, and I got what I needed and I am grateful. I have no idea why my oil pan is different from others who replied about an air cooled solution, but it is, and I am gonna get that trailer on the road by the end of next month, and am looking forward to finding out once and for all what kind of stress I will be putting put on my baby. The reason this is so long is so it will be in the archives, in addition to all the other info already there. Thanks again to all for your help. Regards From Utah, John ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:52:04 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - Understood Comments: To: Zoltan You just wanted to stop us before someone said to try it and see which way it gets hot! ;-) Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Zoltan" To: Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 5:42 PM Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - Understood I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back is closed. No more discussion is needed on this issue. Thanks David. Zoltan ----- Original Message ----- From: Zoltan To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed. Could any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the system and now I need to know. Thanks in advance. Zoltan ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:36:25 -0500 Reply-To: MF Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: MF Subject: Van won't start when warm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B634.6D841060" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B634.6D841060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just finished putting a used 1.9L in my 84' wolfsburg. The engine = seems to run start fine when cold, one crank and it starts. Once the = engine reaches operating temp though, it is very difficult to restart. = The idle is always smooth and consistant, about 900 RPM. The starter = and battery seem very strong also, it always cranks. Any ideas? Thanks Matt ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B634.6D841060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just finished putting a used 1.9L in = my 84'=20 wolfsburg.  The engine seems to run start fine when cold, one crank = and it=20 starts.  Once the engine reaches operating temp though, it is very=20 difficult to restart.  The idle is always smooth and consistant, = about 900=20 RPM.  The starter and battery seem very strong also, it always=20 cranks.
Any ideas?  Thanks
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B634.6D841060-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 21:00:44 -0800 Reply-To: Geoff Wilke Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Geoff Wilke Subject: Re: Vanagon was here Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <105.dae220.27f16f60@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There's some spray stuff that I got from my local auto parts place that took the oil and stuff from the concrete. I'm real happy. Forgot the name though. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Rico Sapolich Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:22 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Vanagon was here In a message dated 3/26/01 7:14:56 AM, moby@COASTALNET.COM writes: << Does anyone know of a driveway cleaner that actually works? >> Matt, Trisodium phosphate; cheap and effective. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 23:14:18 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam...love the Spam---NOT!! Comments: To: Patrick Bryson In-Reply-To: Patrick Bryson 's message of Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:17:47 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit I myself, love Spam on rye, with onions, and mustard, Spam and eggs, on a toasted bagel, Spam and beans, Spam taco's. Spam is good !!:>) ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 01:32:09 EST Reply-To: BusladyOfSoCal@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gina Godat Subject: Vanagon Line Drawing? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f4.8621772.27f18de9_boundary" --part1_f4.8621772.27f18de9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone have a simple line drawing of an any year Vanagon? I just wanna play around creating paint schemes on one. I was gonna make one look like an MCI Renaissance motorcoach.....heheheh Buslady Vanagonless going kookoo --part1_f4.8621772.27f18de9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone have a simple line drawing of an any year Vanagon? I just wanna
play around creating paint schemes on one. I was gonna make one look like an
MCI Renaissance motorcoach.....heheheh

Buslady
Vanagonless
going kookoo --part1_f4.8621772.27f18de9_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 00:37:00 -0800 Reply-To: mike and shari Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike and shari Organization: none Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------132E17BE9B656CA2BB22BBDE" --------------132E17BE9B656CA2BB22BBDE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am finishing up the Subaru conversion to my syncro this week and Zoltan's question got me thinking about wether or not my rear core was in the open or closed position. (The Subie engine Must have one of the two cores open or it will overheat). Soooo, as I was looking at the valve I dicovered that it is difficult to tell what part of the valve should be pointing forward for the 'On' position. The top of the valve handle of the bottom, there are no signifying marks on it. Mike G. Zoltan wrote: > I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back > is closed. No more discussion is needed on this issue. Thanks > David.Zoltan > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Zoltan > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM > Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE > The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed.Could > any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the > system and now I need to know. Thanks in advance.Zoltan > --------------132E17BE9B656CA2BB22BBDE Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am finishing up the Subaru conversion to my syncro this week and Zoltan's question got me thinking about wether or not my rear core was in the open or closed position.  (The Subie engine Must have one of the two cores open or it will overheat).  Soooo, as I was looking at the valve I dicovered that it is difficult to tell what part of the valve should be pointing forward for the 'On' position.  The top of the valve handle of the bottom, there are no signifying marks on it.

                                                                                                                    Mike G.

Zoltan wrote:

I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back is closed.  No more discussion is needed on this issue.  Thanks David.Zoltan
----- Original Message -----
From: Zoltan
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM
Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE
 The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed.Could any of you tell me right now.  I am just busy emptying the system and now I need to know.  Thanks in advance.Zoltan
--------------132E17BE9B656CA2BB22BBDE-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 02:42:50 -0600 Reply-To: Mark Ingalls Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Ingalls Subject: Soundproofing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Here's an alternative to Dyna-mat that I nabbed from the aircooled website. www.mcmaster.com item #9709T18 I ordered 2 sheets (32"X 54" @ $12.79 a sheet), I'll report how well it works. I also ordered a 0-60# pressure gauge for $11.44. Item #4000K43. Mark Ingalls 85 GL 75 Beetle _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:03:03 +1000 Reply-To: David Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Subject: ReCarat in Aus Comments: To: pjlander@OZEMAIL.COM.AU Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have seen a Carat in the flesh here in Melbourne in 1995. Leather upholstery throughout and all the whistles and bells. It was for sale and the yard wanted 27.5K for it. It had 215k kms on the clock. I can't remember which year it was manufactured. I thought the price was way too high though!!! David 1990 Caravelle GL --- Send the right message --- + Today freemail + Get your free, private email address at http://www.today.com.au ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 18:46:44 -0800 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: Painting Bumpers Comments: To: Mark Keller MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The black part is faded to a washed-out gray - so I'm thinking that I need to redo the whole thing. Todd '88 Westy Mark Keller wrote: > Todd, > > Assuming you want the raised portion black and it's black now why not > mask it over. Blow the color on the uppper and lower areas. Then unmask > the black area, and clearcoat the entire panel. > > This is the procedure I used. Except I had made repairs which required > the black areas to be coated. I bypassed the black epoxy paint stage by > using black epoxy primer for the paint preparation. > > Sincerely, > > Mark Keller > 91 Carat > Cowichan Bay, B.C. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 03:31:32 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Re: 2 Questions Comments: To: Bill Knight MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a wire wheel run by blet drive and I use it to polish al the crud and rust off my old bolts. DM&FS ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Knight" To: Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 12:10 PM Subject: Re: 2 Questions > #1: The replacement lamps come with the plastic holder attached. I > just bought a set at the local dealer, they were $2 each. > > #2: If the hardware pieces are really cruddy, soak them in kerosene, > otherwise give them a shot of WD-40. > > Bill Knight > Raleigh, NC > 84 Westy Wolfsburg > 91 Vanagon Carat > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf > Of Dave Baker > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 11:44 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: 2 Questions > > > Morning, folks. Today I have two questions for the list. Here > goes... > > 1. According to Haynes, the dash lights just push into their plastic > sockets. I untwisted the sockets and removed them from the instrument > panel, but I'll be durned if I can get the lamps themselves out of > their > plastic holders. What's the trick? > > 2. Anyone know of a good way to clean up screws and fasteners (e.g., > bolts, > washers, etc.)? As I remove and replace components, I'd like to reuse > as > much hardware as possible but remove any rust or scale that's formed. > > I'll be waiting for your comments. > > Thanks. > > Dave in KC > 95 Westy (with working brake lights) > http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/westy.htm ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 05:48:48 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: cc: dlg@andrew.cmu.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_a.ac70025.27f1ca10_boundary" --part1_a.ac70025.27f1ca10_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/26/2001 11:19:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > Re: ETKA cd's ..... =20 OK, after a virtual flood of inquiries, here's the full story on the=20 ETKA CD's for everone. I can provide copies of the ETKA V5.3 for all VW,=20 Audi & Skoda products made for the North American market from 1947 ~ 2001. =20= I=20 also can provide copies of the ETKA V5 for all European VW & Audi products=20 from 1947 ~ 1998. $10 each USD or CND post paid to your door. Both of thes= e=20 CD's contain the "Hardlock" program if you need it. You need to run this program in 1280 x 1024 resoloution on at least a= =20 17" monitor. Now I know there's been some chatter about using programs such= =20 as Virtual Desktop to beat this problem on less powerful systems but I don't= =20 know any thing about this. You'll need to look for that info somewhere else= .=20 There is also some question if it will run in Windows 2k. I don't know. =20 I've run it in Win 95, 98 and Millennium all with success. As for MAC, It=20 will not work unless you use a program for running PC programs on a MAC=20 system. Send your 10 bucks, wrapped in a sheet of paper with your mailing=20 address, to: =20 Frank Condelli RR #2 Almonte, ON Canada K0A 1A0 =20 If I get some flack from VW or Lex Com then I'm outa here....PRONTO != =20 This will be the last message I post on this subject. SO SAVE THIS MESSAGE=20= ! Cheers=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper event in Almonte, June 7-10 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_a.ac70025.27f1ca10_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/26/2= 001 11:19:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


Re: ETKA cd's .....  i= nterested? read


      OK, after a virtual flood of inquir= ies, here's the full story on the=20
ETKA CD's for everone.  I can provide copies of the ETKA V5.3 for a= ll VW,=20
Audi & Skoda products made for the North American market from 1947 ~= 2001.  I=20
also can provide copies of the ETKA V5 for all European VW & Audi pr= oducts=20
from 1947 ~ 1998.  $10 each USD or CND post paid to your door. &nbs= p;Both of these=20
CD's contain the "Hardlock" program if you need it.
      You need to run this program in 128= 0 x 1024 resoloution on at least a=20
17" monitor.  Now I know there's been some chatter about using prog= rams such=20
as Virtual Desktop to beat this problem on less powerful systems but I d= on't=20
know any thing about this.  You'll need to look for that info somew= here else.=20
 There is also some question if it will run in Windows 2k.  I=20= don't know.  
I've run it in Win 95, 98 and Millennium all with success.  As for=20= MAC, It=20
will not work unless you use a program for running PC programs on a MAC=20
system.
      Send your 10 bucks, wrapped in a sh= eet of paper with your mailing=20
address, to:
=20
      Frank Condelli
      RR #2
      Almonte, ON
      Canada
      K0A 1A0
      
      If I get some flack from VW or Lex=20= Com then I'm outa here....PRONTO !  
This will be the last message I post on this subject.  SO SAVE T= HIS MESSAGE !

Cheers=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a=20= VW Camper event in Almonte, June 7-10
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stain= less Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &a= mp; Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_a.ac70025.27f1ca10_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 05:57:58 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: Re: Sunny's Grille Comments: cc: sullivan@openmarket.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_9c.cdc1506.27f1cc36_boundary" --part1_9c.cdc1506.27f1cc36_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/25/2001 12:59:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > yellow grille =20 I like 'em both ! Since the grille takes, what 5 miniutes, to change= =20 then just swap 'em every now and then when you fancy a change ! =20 Cheers=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper event in Almonte, June 7-10 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_9c.cdc1506.27f1cc36_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/25/2= 001 12:59:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


yellow grille
      
      I like 'em both !  = ;Since the grille takes, what 5 miniutes, to change=20
then just swap 'em every now and then when you fancy a change !  

Cheers=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a=20= VW Camper event in Almonte, June 7-10
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stain= less Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &a= mp; Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_9c.cdc1506.27f1cc36_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:12:19 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Oh yes they can! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" = >Macintoshes cannot open ETKA CDs. > > >With virtual PC or the "other" program, MAC's become a PC. > >mark... Er...yes. Kinda forgot about that. Must "borrow" a Virtual PC CD from work... And despite popular "knowledge", of course Macs ARE in fact PCs! Andrew ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:45:04 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Help me choose Sunny's grill style! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I vote black too. I haven't seen your pictures, but I have seen pix of these with RSA grills painted body-color. They lose out visually. with the GTi-style grill black they look really aggressive. My RSA grill pair will remain black. however if you do end up prefering yeller, painting the lower would be best IMHO. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:45:09 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... Comments: To: Ray Hunnam Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ray Early models were available as diesels. However the much-loved wasserboxer was introduced midway through 1983, I believe. My waterpumper is an 84 (Oz-market model). Andrew >Ok Andrew I'll bite > >Aren't 80-84 Air Cooled. > >Ray > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Andrew Grebneff" >To: >Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:00 PM >Subject: Re: HOW TO bleed the coolant system... > > >> >Forget Bentley. 19.16 states INCORRECTLY to raise the front end 10 cm. >> >This won't do it. >> >Buy a Haynes. It is clear, concise, and has a useable table of contents >> >and index. Bentley misses the mark. >> >Anyway, Haynes chap 1, #25 states to raise the front AT LEAST 40 cm! >> >Follow the easy-to-understand Haynes and retire your Bentley. >> >> >> the Bentley manual for 80-84 Vanagons says "approximately 40cm" >> >> >> Andrew Grebneff >> 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand >> fax 64 (3) 479-7527 >> >> VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut >> Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus >> *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, >> always remember that we are the TOP 10% >> *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and >> millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million >> machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note >that >> cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do >not >> denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 >> ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:45:28 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Does anyone have a simple line drawing of an any year Vanagon? I just wanna >play around creating paint schemes on one. I was gonna make one look like an >MCI Renaissance motorcoach.....heheheh > >Buslady Got a copy of a LiMBO newsletter? They had one on the these. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 07:11:16 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth Madsen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth Madsen Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I'm also seriously interested. To whom it may concern, please e-mail me the details on how to obtain this CD. Just a note - A while back when talking shop with my local VW dealer, the cd that they had required some sort of hardware key that plugs into a serial port in back of the computer in order for the it to work... Anyone heard of this?? Ken Madsen 87 Vanagon GL 87 Golf Diesel 95 Jetta GLX -----Original Message----- From: dianne gigler [mailto:dlg@ANDREW.CMU.EDU] Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 3:24 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read I am definitely interested. How do I make payment and to whom? Dianne --On Sunday, March 25, 2001 8:20 PM +0000 JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote: > the $25 he is charging is for the blank cd, his time burning the ETKA on > it, and his time and cost pack/shipping. The original that the copies > were made from was a 2000 version. if y'all dont think this is fair, > then he wont bother. > i have my copy, he has his. yes he is aware of copyright issues but get > real folks.. have you heard of Napster? not like this is the first > time anyone has done this. Anyway thats why he was only charging $25 to > cover his time, materials and ship. > > i just thought some of you out there would like a copy too. > apparently not, as it seems to be bringing too much critisizm. > > chris ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 07:38:35 EST Reply-To: Doss88Wkndr@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Doss Subject: Bosch or Hella Fuel Pump? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb_boundary" --part1_21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My fuel pump has been making a noise like there is a giant bumble bee trapped inside it. A friend told me this means imminent failure. Any feedback? Our vendor friends sell a Bosch unit and a Hella/Piersburg unit. Any difference... besides $10.00 price? Brian Doss '88 Weekender, Queequeg --part1_21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My fuel pump has been making a noise like there is a giant bumble bee trapped
inside it. A friend told me this means imminent failure. Any feedback? Our
vendor friends sell a Bosch unit and a Hella/Piersburg unit. Any
difference... besides $10.00 price?

Brian Doss
'88 Weekender, Queequeg --part1_21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 06:55:16 -0500 Reply-To: Stephen Steele Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stephen Steele Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: EdVF1000R@aol.com Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MS_Mac_OE_3068434516_4306729_MIME_Part" > THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3068434516_4306729_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Ed wrote: (snip) Those of us in business have taken extreme personal financial risks to do so, and we help the hobbyists like yourself as much as we can, usually for no additional charge. - Ed Ed: I agree with you completely. If it weren't for you guys in the shops and at the parts counters a lot of us 'hobbyists' would be up the proverbial creek, without a spanner. But at the risk of the wrath of Siegfried the VW enforcer, I think the "threat" presented (even if all 900 of us acquired the CD) is minimal to VW's well being. In a previous life in retailing, I always found the educated customer to be the best customer. The CD as Karl W. pointed out makes his and his parts guy's life much easier. NOW...how can I open the ETKA on my iMac? Anybody tried? -- Stephen Steele Chillicothe OH '91 Caravelle "Hans" '84 Westfalia "Fritz" '81 Diesel Rabbit "Ol' Yeller" by PO '90 Jetta GL 16 yo Sons' "together" car '74 MGB "Terrance" My first car...yep, I've kept it since '74 '93 Chevy S-10 I hate it ... but sometimes I need a truck --MS_Mac_OE_3068434516_4306729_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: ETKA cd's .....  interested? read

Ed wrote:

(snip)
Those of us in business have taken extreme personal  
financial risks to do so, and we help the hobbyists like yourself as much a= s
we can, usually for no additional charge.  - Ed
Ed:
I agree with you completely. If it weren't for you guys in the shops and at= the parts counters a lot of us 'hobbyists' would be up the proverbial creek= , without a spanner.
But at the risk of the wrath of Siegfried the VW enforcer, I think the &quo= t;threat" presented (even if all 900 of us acquired the CD) is minimal = to VW's well being. In a previous life in retailing, I always found the educ= ated customer to be the best customer.  The CD as Karl W. pointed out m= akes his and his parts guy's life much easier.
NOW...how can I open the ETKA on my iMac?  Anybody tried?

--
Stephen Steele
Chillicothe OH
'91 Caravelle  "Hans"
'84 Westfalia  "Fritz"
'81 Diesel Rabbit "Ol' Yeller" by PO
'90 Jetta GL  16 yo Sons' "together" car
'74 MGB  "Terrance" My first car...yep, I've kept it since '= 74
'93 Chevy S-10    I hate it ... but sometimes I need a truck=






--MS_Mac_OE_3068434516_4306729_MIME_Part-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 06:58:28 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) Comments: To: mike and shari In-Reply-To: mike and shari 's message of Tue, 27 Mar 2001 00:37:00 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit And is the lever on the top of the box or on the bottom? My lever swings on the bottom. If it was on the top, on and off would be reversed. If the valve had been worked on by a PO, and the lever was put on upside down, you would never know which side it should be on. So where is it suppose to be? I always wondered about this. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:34:22 -0330 Reply-To: Karl Dawe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Dawe Subject: Haynes & Bentley In-Reply-To: <21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've been trying to find a copy of the Haynes book that covers the 84 wasserboxer, but the only one I seem to be able to find covers just the air-cooled vans. Does anyone know where I can find what I'm looking for, or does anyone have a Haynes and/or a Bentley for sale? Thanks, Karl. '84 Vanagon GL (Die GeldGrube) '90 Dodge Spirit (Winter-beater) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 08:11:33 -0500 Reply-To: Doug Alcock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Doug Alcock Subject: Re: Haynes & Bentley Comments: To: Karl Dawe Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii >>I've been trying to find a copy of the Haynes book that covers the 84 >>wasserboxer, but the only one I seem to be able to find covers just the Hey Karl --- I got my Haynes from the Bus Depot. I think Ron imports them from Britain, I couldn't find one anywhere else. Cheers, Doug Alcock '84 Westy Toronto, Canada ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:32:09 -0500 Reply-To: Kitzmann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kitzmann Subject: Re: Would this work on an Air -Cooled? (was : A/C system auction closing soon. ) In-Reply-To: <200103261840.f2QIegW30217@marlin.exis.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" And with my experiance with Campbell Nelson that AC unit probably will be broken and have only spanish written all over it. That was my experiance with a new part, I would hate to see used! Dave K. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:06:11 -0500 Reply-To: Schmidt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Schmidt Subject: Re: Haynes & Bentley Comments: To: Karl Dawe MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bus Depot. Around $25 for HARDBACK! Nice book. Jay >I've been trying to find a copy of the Haynes book that covers the 84 >wasserboxer, but the only one I seem to be able to find covers just the >air-cooled vans. Does anyone know where I can find what I'm looking for, or >does anyone have a Haynes and/or a Bentley for sale? > >Thanks, >Karl. > >'84 Vanagon GL (Die GeldGrube) >'90 Dodge Spirit (Winter-beater) > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:03:20 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Bosch or Hella Fuel Pump? Comments: To: Doss88Wkndr@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b0.124c6019.27f1f7a8_boundary" --part1_b0.124c6019.27f1f7a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The difference between the Bosch pump and the Piersburg pump are: Piersburg is cheaper (Bosch is $160 and Pburg- $130) Piersburg is physically smaller (comes with a rubber sleeve to allow it to fit in place of a larger diameter Bosch pump). The connectors on the pump are slightly different (Bosch just plugs on, but Pburg you will have to splice in new connectors- provided with pump). I think that the quality level of the two pumps is about the same. So it comes down to if you feel that saving $30 is worth a little more work on your part (crimping on new end connectors to the wires). That is about it. Just FYI, Ken Wilford Van-Again John 3:16 http://www.vanagain.com Office: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_b0.124c6019.27f1f7a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The difference between the Bosch pump and the Piersburg pump are:
Piersburg is cheaper (Bosch is $160 and Pburg- $130)
Piersburg is physically smaller (comes with a rubber sleeve to allow it to
fit in place of a larger diameter Bosch pump).
The connectors on the pump are slightly different (Bosch just plugs on, but
Pburg you will have to splice in new connectors- provided with pump).
I think that the quality level of the two pumps is about the same.  So it
comes down to if you feel that saving $30 is worth a little more work on your
part (crimping on new end connectors to the wires).  That is about it.

Just FYI,
Ken Wilford
Van-Again
John 3:16
http://www.vanagain.com
Office: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_b0.124c6019.27f1f7a8_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 06:05:26 -0800 Reply-To: '80 Westy Pokey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: '80 Westy Pokey Subject: Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? Comments: To: BusladyOfSoCal@AOL.COM Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 I always wanted to put out the same appeal to the list. The front cover of Bently has two great line drawings, if someone scanned them I'm sure I could get them from yellow on green to black and white. Thanks, Chris On Mon, 26 March 2001, Gina Godat wrote: > > Does anyone have a simple line drawing of an any year Vanagon? I just wanna >
play around creating paint schemes on one. I was gonna make one look like an >
MCI Renaissance motorcoach.....heheheh >
>
Buslady >
Vanagonless >
going kookoo Thanks, Chris Gronski '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable www.vanagon.org & .ca www.gronski.com, .org, & .ca www.nineeleven.org & .ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 07:03:11 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) Comments: To: mike and shari I'm not trying to start a war here, but . . . Is the Soob swap such a marginal solution that it requires a heater to be on constantly? Or does yours have a problem? This is the first I have heard of this. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "mike and shari" To: Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 1:37 AM Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) > I am finishing up the Subaru conversion to my syncro this week and > Zoltan's question got me thinking about wether or not my rear core was > in the open or closed position. (The Subie engine Must have one of the > two cores open or it will overheat). Soooo, as I was looking at the > valve I dicovered that it is difficult to tell what part of the valve > should be pointing forward for the 'On' position. The top of the valve > handle of the bottom, there are no signifying marks on it. > > > Mike G. > > Zoltan wrote: > > > I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back > > is closed. No more discussion is needed on this issue. Thanks > > David.Zoltan > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Zoltan > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM > > Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE > > The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed.Could > > any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the > > system and now I need to know. Thanks in advance.Zoltan > > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:08:53 -0500 Reply-To: "The Bus Depot, Inc." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "The Bus Depot, Inc." Subject: Re: Bosch or Hella Fuel Pump? Comments: To: Doss88Wkndr@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > My fuel pump has been making a noise like there is a giant bumble bee trapped > inside it. A friend told me this means imminent failure. Any feedback? Our ? vendor friends sell a Bosch unit and a Hella/Piersburg unit. Any > difference... besides $10.00 price? I prefer the Pierburg because it has a layer of rubber around it which reduces noise/vibration. Otherwise they are comparable quality. I have not had any reliability problems with either. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. www.busdepot.com (215) 234-VWVW ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:11:15 -0500 Reply-To: John Philcox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Philcox Subject: Re: Bosch or Hella Fuel Pump? On Tuesday, March 27, 2001 7:38 AM, Brian Doss wrote: >My fuel pump has been making a noise like there is a giant bumble bee trapped >inside it. A friend told me this means imminent failure. Any feedback? Our >vendor friends sell a Bosch unit and a Hella/Piersburg unit. Any >difference... besides $10.00 price? Brian, Before replacing the fuel pump, be sure you check fuel pressure and flow. My pump made the bumble bee sound when the fuel pressure regulator went bad. John Philcox '85 GL Newport, RI ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:17:40 -0500 Reply-To: "Spooner, Robert E." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Spooner, Robert E." Subject: Speedo stopped working MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" On the way home last night, the speedo worked as it should: showing the speed and recording the miles. This morning: nothing. It is the coldest overnight since I've owned this thing, so that may have something to do with it. Any suggestions? Thanks Bob East Haddam, CT ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 07:53:55 -0700 Reply-To: Sean Garrett Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Sean Garrett Subject: FS: new flat poptop seal (80 Westy) Comments: To: type2@type2.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I ordered a flat poptop seal from GoWesty (for a 80 Westy) and found that I am gonna replace the whole seal. Soooo... I have xtra (flat) seal to sell with glue. Still in the box. Make offer. SeanG 80 Westy 95 EVC _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:52:37 -0400 Reply-To: Chad Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad Subject: I Need a Fuel Pressure Regulator MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit anyone have one in great working order that will fit an 85GL?????? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:51:14 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Bosch or Hella Fuel Pump? Comments: To: Doss88Wkndr@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <21.95cebc7.27f1e3cb@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Change your suction-side fuel filter first, you'd feel pretty silly if that was the problem (and it could very well be, depending on how loud the noise is). Aside from that, the Pierburg pumps make a high whine that I find disagreeable though certainly tolerable. For $10 (or even $25) difference I'd go with the Bosch. david At 07:38 AM 3/27/2001, Brian Doss wrote: >My fuel pump has been making a noise like there is a giant bumble bee trapped >inside it. A friend told me this means imminent failure. Any feedback? Our >vendor friends sell a Bosch unit and a Hella/Piersburg unit. Any >difference... besides $10.00 price? David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:56:08 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: FS: Carat weekender interior w/ sofabed and side table panels, fits all vans MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_a4.11e8aeed.27f21218_boundary" --part1_a4.11e8aeed.27f21218_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale: carat interior w/ rear sofabed and cushion, and plastic side table panels, all mounting hardware.. fits all passenger vanagons. grey. this is the weekender style interior where back seat folds down into a sofabed w/ cushion over engine. email if interested. chris --part1_a4.11e8aeed.27f21218_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale: carat interior w/ rear sofabed and cushion, and plastic side table
panels, all mounting hardware.. fits all passenger vanagons. grey. this is
the weekender style interior where back seat folds down into a sofabed w/
cushion over engine.  
email if interested.

chris --part1_a4.11e8aeed.27f21218_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:59:10 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: for sale: vanagon front chin spoiler/air dam (mounts below bumper) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_20.13f7b002.27f212ce_boundary" --part1_20.13f7b002.27f212ce_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale, carat style vanagon front chin spoiler/air dam..mounts below front bumper. will mount on any vanagon. looks great with the metal front bumper too, i mounted one on my 84. i also have a single grey front captains chair available, with adjustable armrests. chris --part1_20.13f7b002.27f212ce_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit for sale, carat style vanagon front chin spoiler/air dam..mounts below front
bumper.  will mount on any vanagon. looks great with the metal front bumper
too, i mounted one on my 84.  

i also have a single grey front captains chair available, with adjustable
armrests.

chris --part1_20.13f7b002.27f212ce_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:02:37 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) Comments: To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET In-Reply-To: <16688-3AC08E74-905@storefull-133.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The valve is meant to be operated by a Bowden wire -- open position is with the lever closest to the mounting bracket for the wire. david At 07:58 AM 3/27/2001, Terry Kay wrote: >And is the lever on the top of the box or on the bottom? >My lever swings on the bottom. >If it was on the top, on and off would be reversed. >If the valve had been worked on by a PO, and the lever was put on upside >down, you would never know which side it should be on. >So where is it suppose to be? >I always wondered about this. > >Later, > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | >||-(())----(())-| > >Terry 85 GL David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:05:25 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) Comments: To: Karl Wolz In-Reply-To: <005101c0b6c8$2fb3c980$1023480c@pavilion> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 09:03 AM 3/27/2001, Karl Wolz wrote: >Is the Soob swap such a marginal solution that it requires a heater to be >on constantly? Or does yours have a problem? This is the first I have >heard of this. The design of the Subaru cooling system assumes (and requires) flow through the heater loop at all times. I'm not sure, but I think that without this the thermostat will not open and the engine will overheat with the thermostat still closed. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:08:20 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_d3.12764d1a.27f214f4_boundary" --part1_d3.12764d1a.27f214f4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am please to announce that Van-Again has, with the help of the good folks at Ronal, found two of their rims that fit the Vanagon perfectly and that we can sell at a reasonable price. The first is the R-28 16x7.5 with a ET 15 offset. These are pictured here on Ronals website http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r28.html. These would sell for $220 each. The other rim that is available is the R-36 16x7 with a ET 0 offset. These are pictured at: http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r36.html These would sell for $210 each. These are new, TUV approved, and made in Germany. I spoke to the folks at Ronal about the offset and they said that because the wheels are much wider than stock the offset is fine for the Vanagon application. They have also test fitted them on the Vanagon and you can see what they look like mounted at: http://www.ronalusa.com/cars/cars_html/vw_vanagon.html I also asked them about the load rating on both of these rims and they are both designed to be used on much heavier, off-road vehicles than the Vanagon (Chevy Tahoe) so there is no problem there either. Also they checked to see if there was any interference with the wheel wells or sliding door and there was none. They also ran 205/55/16 tires on the wheels , w. a rolling diameter of 24.83", compared to the stock, 185/75/14 w. a RD of 24.85" so speedomenter and odometer error can be avoided as well. I hope I have answered any questions you may have. Please email or call me if you are interested in purchasing a set of these rims or have any more questions. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_d3.12764d1a.27f214f4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am please to announce that Van-Again has, with the help of the good folks
at Ronal, found two of their rims that fit the Vanagon perfectly and that we
can sell at a reasonable price.  

The first is the R-28 16x7.5 with a ET 15 offset.  These are pictured here on
Ronals website http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r28.html.
These would sell for $220 each.  

The other rim that is available is the R-36 16x7 with a ET 0 offset.  These
are pictured at:
http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r36.html
These would sell for $210 each.

These are new, TUV approved, and made in Germany.  I spoke to the folks at
Ronal about the offset and they said that because the wheels are much wider
than stock the offset is fine for the Vanagon application.  They have also
test fitted them on the Vanagon and you can see what they look like mounted
at:
http://www.ronalusa.com/cars/cars_html/vw_vanagon.html

I also asked them about the load rating on both of these rims and they are
both designed to be used on much heavier, off-road vehicles than the Vanagon
(Chevy Tahoe) so there is no problem there either.  Also they checked to see
if there was any interference with the wheel wells or sliding door and there
was none.  They also ran 205/55/16 tires on the wheels , w. a rolling
diameter of 24.83", compared to the stock, 185/75/14 w. a RD of 24.85" so
speedomenter and odometer error can be avoided as well.  I hope I have
answered any questions you may have.  Please email or call me if you are
interested in purchasing a set of these rims or have any more questions.  


Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_d3.12764d1a.27f214f4_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:13:45 -0600 Reply-To: Fetner Greg Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Fetner Greg Subject: OXS light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tim, the box that causes the service light to come on every (?) 30k miles is in the speedo cable underneath the van...speedo cable runs from LF wheel to this box, then on to the odometer. If your odometer doesn't work, the light will still come on at regular mileage intervals. Drop your spare tire and follow the speedo cable from the wheel. The box has a button on it somewhere to reset the light. Reset the box and your light should go out. Fetner ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:31:41 -0500 Reply-To: James Creech Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: James Creech Subject: always a second fuel filter? Comments: To: David Beierl MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Speaking of the "suction-side filter," my vanagon (87, 2.1) only has the Bosch filter on the high pressure side (between the pump and the regulator / injectors). My interpretation of Bentley has been that some models have NO filter between the gas tank and pump. Am I wrong about this, and the PO removed it? Thanks, Jim > Change your suction-side fuel filter first... > david ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:26:34 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Sullivan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Sullivan Subject: Re: ETKA cd's ..... interested? read Comments: To: Stephen Steele MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C0B6DA.B074E330" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B6DA.B074E330 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" [Michael Sullivan] EKTA REQUIRES 1280x1024 resolution -- it will NOT work with less. So you are "out of luck" when it comes to the iMAC. NOTE: other Macs that can acheive this resolution "should" work with PC emulation software. Cheers, MJS NOW...how can I open the ETKA on my iMac? Anybody tried? -- Stephen Steele Chillicothe OH '91 Caravelle "Hans" '84 Westfalia "Fritz" '81 Diesel Rabbit "Ol' Yeller" by PO '90 Jetta GL 16 yo Sons' "together" car '74 MGB "Terrance" My first car...yep, I've kept it since '74 '93 Chevy S-10 I hate it ... but sometimes I need a truck ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B6DA.B074E330 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Re: ETKA cd's ..... =A0interested? read

[Michael Sullivan] 
EKTA REQUIRES=20 1280x1024 resolution -- it will NOT work with less. = So you=20 are "out of luck" when it comes to the iMAC. NOTE: other Macs that = can acheive=20 this resolution "should" work with PC emulation software. =
 
Cheers,
MJS
 
 NOW...how can I = open the ETKA=20 on my iMac?  Anybody tried?

--
Stephen = Steele
Chillicothe=20 OH
'91 Caravelle  "Hans"
'84 Westfalia =  "Fritz"
'81 Diesel=20 Rabbit "Ol' Yeller" by PO
'90 Jetta GL  16 yo Sons' = "together"=20 car
'74 MGB  "Terrance" My first car...yep, I've kept it = since=20 '74
'93 Chevy S-10    I hate it ... but sometimes I = need a=20 truck






------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B6DA.B074E330-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:48:58 -0500 Reply-To: Robert Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Donalds Subject: Re: new head gasket split Comments: cc: tbf@PACIFIER.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0207_01C0B6AB.869D6A20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0207_01C0B6AB.869D6A20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable After rebuilding a 2.1, I torqued the heads on by the book with a new = German gasket set. The engine ran good and did not leak. After running = the engine only a few miles I put the Vanagon away for a few days = planning to button things up when I had time. In two days I happened to = notice the passenger side head was starting to leak coolant. I looked at = the gasket on the top of the head on the front corner and the gasket = was pushed out funny. I took the head off and the new rubber gasket had = a diagonal split about 3/4 inch long that cut the sealing face of the = gasket in two. Has this happened to anyone else or did I just get a bad = gasket? The heads are the original heads that came off of the engine. = Any ideas? The gaskets had the VW mark on them so I assume they are = OEM. =20 Thanks, Todd Francis =20 Todd=20 this has happened to me also I have seen gaskets split both on the top = and the bottom I think that this occurs as the head is installed one = reason is that the push rod tubes press against the head and because of = this the head is at an angle when the head nut is tightened to bring = the head into place against the gasket this might create a side load on = the gasket and start to tare the gasket and the pressure of the cooling = system finishes it off in just a short time=20 to prevent this problem I deburr the sharp of the case where the rubber = gasket sits with a file after I repair the gasket suface with JB weld. I = also use the a little silicone as a lube in both the channel of the = gasket and the head sealing surface. the only other thing I do that = could help is to wiggle the head as I bring the head down into place and = my hope is that this unloads any side pressure on the rubber gasket=20 Bob Donalds=20 http://www.bostonengine.com as always all rights reserved ------=_NextPart_000_0207_01C0B6AB.869D6A20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
After rebuilding a 2.1, I torqued the = heads on by=20 the book with a new German gasket set. The engine ran good and did not = leak.=20 After running the engine only a few miles I put the Vanagon away for a = few days=20 planning to button things up when I had time. In two days I happened to = notice=20 the passenger side head was starting to leak coolant. I looked at the = gasket on=20 the top of  the head on the front corner and the gasket was pushed = out=20 funny. I took the head off and the new rubber gasket had a diagonal = split about=20 3/4 inch long that cut the sealing face of the gasket in two. Has this = happened=20 to anyone else or did I just get a bad gasket? The heads are the = original heads=20 that came off of the engine. Any ideas?  The gaskets had the VW = mark on=20 them so I assume they are OEM. 
Thanks,  Todd = Francis 

Todd

this has happened to me also I have seen gaskets split both on the = top and=20 the bottom I think that this occurs as the head is installed = one=20 reason is that the push rod tubes press against the head and = because of=20 this the head is at an angle when the  head nut is tightened = to bring=20 the head into place against the gasket this might create a side load on = the=20 gasket and start to tare the gasket and the pressure of the cooling = system=20 finishes it off in just a short time

to prevent this problem I deburr the sharp of the case where the = rubber=20 gasket sits with a file after I repair the gasket suface with JB weld. I = also=20 use the a little silicone as a lube in both the channel of the = gasket and=20 the head sealing surface. the only other thing I do that could help is = to wiggle=20 the head as I bring the head down into place and my hope is that this = unloads=20 any side pressure on the rubber gasket

Bob Donalds

http://www.bostonengine.com<= A=20 href=3D"http://www.bostonengine">

as always all rights reserved

------=_NextPart_000_0207_01C0B6AB.869D6A20-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:32:29 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Sullivan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Sullivan Subject: WTB: Wasserboxer engine mount Comments: cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com, subaruvanagon@egroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dear Listees, Anyone have a wasserboxer engine carrier for sale? I don't need it to support my TDI engine (it's already working just fine), instead I want to modify the heck out of it to support my now-missing Syncro engine guard. Please pmail me if you have a lead... Michael J. Sullivan http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:43:53 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: always a second fuel filter? Comments: To: James Creech In-Reply-To: <003101c0b6db$68293d00$a44297ce@jimc> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Bentley says that 49-state versions have the small plastic filter on the suction side, and California models have the large metal filter on the pressure side instead. My Westy was delivered in Germany and is labelled as Cal-spec -- but has the small plastic filter only. Go figure. d At 11:31 AM 3/27/2001, James Creech wrote: >Speaking of the "suction-side filter," my vanagon (87, 2.1) only has the >Bosch filter on the high pressure side (between the pump and the regulator / >injectors). My interpretation of Bentley has been that some models have NO >filter between the gas tank and pump. Am I wrong about this, and the PO >removed it? > >Thanks, >Jim > > > Change your suction-side fuel filter first... > > david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:10:10 -0500 Reply-To: James Creech Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: James Creech Subject: Re: always a second fuel filter? Comments: To: Jay L Snyder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Then it would seem to be advisable to add the inlet filter even if the high pressure side filter is already there and functioning well. Crud coming into the pump couldn't be a good thing, even if the larger filter on the other side takes it out before reaching the injectors. Anyone know if there is only one inlet side filter in a "one-size-fits-all," or could you advise us Filterless Ones of what models are available if it matters to have the right specific type? (please pardon my laziness in not wanting to search the vendors for what they list). Thanks, Jim ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:06:05 -0700 Reply-To: Larry Hamm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Hamm Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Beierl wrote: > > At 09:03 AM 3/27/2001, Karl Wolz wrote: > >Is the Soob swap such a marginal solution that it requires a heater to be > >on constantly? Or does yours have a problem? This is the first I have > >heard of this. > > The design of the Subaru cooling system assumes (and requires) flow through > the heater loop at all times. I'm not sure, but I think that without this > the thermostat will not open and the engine will overheat with the > thermostat still closed. > Karl, David is correct on this. The Legacy NA is an open deck engine, and as such, is happier with less thermal cycling. Thus, the engine has the thermostat on the inlet to the engine, instead of the outlet like most other engines. This serves to keep the engine in a very narrow temp range, but it relies on a bypass loop to tell the thermostat when to take a drink of cool water. Most convertors use the heater loop as the bypass, thus the need to keep at least one heater valve open at all times. Usually it's the rear that gets locked in the open position. There's nothing marginal about the Soob solution, I can assure you! Larry ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:33:38 -0800 Reply-To: mike and shari Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike and shari Organization: none Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - Subie conversion Comments: To: Karl Wolz MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The engine uses the flow from the heater hoses to tell whether or not to open it's thermostat. A valved 'shunt' may be installed to bypass the rear heater core and recirculate back to the system if you want to have it shut off for summer. It has to do with the design of the engine. The subaru engine is a flat boxer style engine similar to the wasserboxer and as such has the same inherent difficulties in bleeding the system of air pockets. Though that's where the similarities end. Mike G. Almost a syncaru Karl Wolz wrote: > I'm not trying to start a war here, but . . . > > Is the Soob swap such a marginal solution that it requires a heater to be > on constantly? Or does yours have a problem? This is the first I have > heard of this. > > Karl Wolz > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "mike and shari" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 1:37 AM > Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) > > > I am finishing up the Subaru conversion to my syncro this week and > > Zoltan's question got me thinking about wether or not my rear core was > > in the open or closed position. (The Subie engine Must have one of the > > two cores open or it will overheat). Soooo, as I was looking at the > > valve I dicovered that it is difficult to tell what part of the valve > > should be pointing forward for the 'On' position. The top of the valve > > handle of the bottom, there are no signifying marks on it. > > > > > > Mike G. > > > > Zoltan wrote: > > > > > I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back > > > is closed. No more discussion is needed on this issue. Thanks > > > David.Zoltan > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Zoltan > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM > > > Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE > > > The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed.Could > > > any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the > > > system and now I need to know. Thanks in advance.Zoltan > > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:36:17 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: Re: always a second fuel filter? Comments: To: James Creech Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii My '86 had both. My '85 had only the inlet filter, so I added the large metal filter on the exit side. Inlet filter is critical with old rusty gas tanks. Noisy pumps usually are due to starving of inlet or plugage downstream. Jay James Creech on 03/27/2001 11:31:41 AM Please respond to James Creech To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM cc: (bcc: Jay L Snyder/AE/DuPont) Subject: always a second fuel filter? Speaking of the "suction-side filter," my vanagon (87, 2.1) only has the Bosch filter on the high pressure side (between the pump and the regulator / injectors). My interpretation of Bentley has been that some models have NO filter between the gas tank and pump. Am I wrong about this, and the PO removed it? Thanks, Jim > Change your suction-side fuel filter first... > david ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:35:49 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: Re: always a second fuel filter? Comments: To: James Creech Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Any generic plastic filter would probably work, except there are some differences in gas line sizes in and out. I think my '86 had a large line (10-12 mm?) in and out, but the VW filter I got from Parts Place (boo-hiss) had a smaller (7mm?)exit line. I think my '85 is this way? Jay ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:01:23 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: WTB: Wasserboxer engine mount Comments: To: Michael Sullivan Mine went out in the recycling bin yesterday. I'll look and see if I have another that I'm not using, but I don't think so. Sorry, Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Sullivan" To: Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:32 AM Subject: WTB: Wasserboxer engine mount > Dear Listees, > > Anyone have a wasserboxer engine carrier for sale? > > I don't need it to support my TDI engine (it's already working just fine), > instead I want to modify the heck out of it to support my now-missing Syncro > engine guard. > > Please pmail me if you have a lead... > > Michael J. Sullivan > http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:05:34 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: Spam is good. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 23:14:18 -0600 From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam...love the Spam---NOT!! I myself, love Spam on rye, with onions, and mustard, Spam and eggs, on a toasted bagel, Spam and beans, Spam taco's. Spam is good !!:>) Ughh. I think it tastes like a hunk of solidified gelatin that has been stored in the bottom of a gasoline tank. But, at least it's healthy, right? It's the big one Elizabeth! Mark... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:18:46 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: ETKA CD ON MAC MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As for the matter of opening a PC CD on a mac, you can use a program called "Virtual PC". It is a "windows emulator" and allows your computer to act just like a wintel machine. I've used it before, and it does work well. There is another program that I forgot the name of but it's a Gates creation, don't know much about it but I hear it does the same thing. BUT, acutally.... if those who opt to burn for us will simply burn these in "dual platform" format, all will be well without the need for any emulators. It MAY be that only "toast" for mac has this dual platform capability but I doubt it. Can a PC burner owner comment on this? Ok, I will agree to do 10 or so these dual platform CD's for the mac owners if it will help. Mark... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:27:20 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: Campbell Nelson MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:32:09 -0500 From: Kitzmann Subject: Re: Would this work on an Air -Cooled? (was : A/C system auction closing soon. ) And with my experiance with Campbell Nelson that AC unit probably will be broken and have only spanish written all over it. That was my experiance with a new part, I would hate to see used! Dave K. Isn't mexico the only source for many Vanagon parts these days? Incidentaly, I don't think there would be more Spanish on a used part than a new one, possibly even less? Gee there's a thought. I have bought quite a few USED parts from CN in Seattle, and the only complaint I have is they can be expensive. Cheerio Mark... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 14:57:37 -0330 Reply-To: Karl Dawe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Dawe Subject: Re: ETKA CD ON MAC Comments: To: radish150 In-Reply-To: <3AC0D980.A8826BF7@earthlink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark, The dual format won't matter if the ETKA runs a Windoze program. You'd be able to see it, no problem. But it still wouldn't run on a Mac. Karl. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of radish150 Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 2:49 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: ETKA CD ON MAC As for the matter of opening a PC CD on a mac, you can use a program called "Virtual PC". It is a "windows emulator" and allows your computer to act just like a wintel machine. I've used it before, and it does work well. There is another program that I forgot the name of but it's a Gates creation, don't know much about it but I hear it does the same thing. BUT, acutally.... if those who opt to burn for us will simply burn these in "dual platform" format, all will be well without the need for any emulators. It MAY be that only "toast" for mac has this dual platform capability but I doubt it. Can a PC burner owner comment on this? Ok, I will agree to do 10 or so these dual platform CD's for the mac owners if it will help. Mark... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:17:35 MST Reply-To: Joe Fortino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Fortino Subject: Re: [Re: always a second fuel filter?] Comments: To: Jay L Snyder Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I think my 85 is 7mm, somehow the hose near the filter sprung a leak so I need to change the hose out on 1 side.. seems just before a trip my van wants some LOVE.. Joe Jay L Snyder wrote: Any generic plastic filter would probably work, except there are some differences in gas line sizes in and out. I think my '86 had a large lin= e (10-12 mm?) in and out, but the VW filter I got from Parts Place (boo-his= s) had a smaller (7mm?)exit line. I think my '85 is this way? Jay VW addict ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 14:35:06 -0500 Reply-To: Ed Shultz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ed Shultz Subject: Any feedback on FIAMMA awnings? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi All, I'm thinking about an awning that would mount over the slider door on my syncro. Something 6-8 ft in length. Anyone use FIAMMA type? I found the web site and it looks like decent quality. TIA -Ed Ed Shultz 1987 Syncro GL Photos: http://homepage.mac.com/eshultz/PhotoAlbum.html ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:07:18 -0500 Reply-To: sevenkevin@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Hayden Subject: Vanagon Distributor swap? Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hi ! Can anyone tell me if any other VW distributors will fit my '85 1.9 vanagon? It is the hall effect type. Thanks again!! Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:22:05 EST Reply-To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Lashley Subject: Re: Any feedback on FIAMMA awnings? Comments: To: eshultz@genuity.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/27/01 1:35:48 PM, eshultz@GENUITY.COM writes: << Hi All, I'm thinking about an awning that would mount over the slider door on my syncro. Something 6-8 ft in length. Anyone use FIAMMA type? I found the web site and it looks like decent quality. TIA -Ed Ed Shultz 1987 Syncro GL >> Ed, I am biased since EuroCampers is a Fiamma dealer, but I've seen most makes of awnings, and I feel that Fiamma is the best. There are 2 models you should consider. the F35 Pro, or the F45. The F35 is available in widths of 6', 7'2", 8'2",8'9" and 9'10" You should consider the larger sizes, which pull out to a length of 7'5" There are specific brackets available for the Vanagon which allow you to clamp the awning to your gutter. If you are interested in getting a quote please call or p-mail. Steve Lashley http://EuroCampers.com 314-614-0750 Importing German Side Tents, Fiamma and Paulchen bike racks and other accessories for Bus, Vanagon and EuroVan ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:49:29 -0500 Reply-To: Derek Drew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Derek Drew Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: cc: Syncro@onelist.com In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I advise caution about these Ronal wheels fellow listers.

The smallest ET that I have heard of being used typically with Vanagon is ET23 whereas the factory ETs are ET30 or ET34 range.

So, having access to a rim that has ET of 0 seems different from the factory ETs to a degree that seems large or borders on extreme. I would also be cautious about ET15.

The problem with an ET that is mismatched to the vehicles OEM specs is either that the tire will hit someplace, or more importantly that the wheel will not sit on the bearings the way the manufacturer intended, which can lead to premature bearing wear. Most articles I have read about wheels are very explicit about the importance of keeping to a factory ET in order to minimize bearing wear.

The main reason for selecting 16" wheels over 15" wheels is so that very large diameter tires can used, in my view. Such very large tires, however, easily hit the sliding door and other body panel parts and so a very small ET, such as ET15, may have a worse tendency to cause the tires to hit. You can read about some of the hitting problems in the large tires article referenced in my Vanagon SIG below.

I think we should keep looking until we find a 16" wheel in the range of ET25 to ET28 or so, which seems to be an ideal range. If these cannot be located, I am quite certain that there are ET23-ET25 wheels to be had, which I judge a safer bet than ET15.

At 11:08 AM 3/27/01 -0500, you wrote:
I am please to announce that Van-Again has, with the help of the good folks
at Ronal, found two of their rims that fit the Vanagon perfectly and that we
can sell at a reasonable price.  

The first is the R-28 16x7.5 with a ET 15 offset.  These are pictured here on
Ronals website http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r28.html.
These would sell for $220 each.  

The other rim that is available is the R-36 16x7 with a ET 0 offset.  These
are pictured at:
http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r36.html
These would sell for $210 each.

These are new, TUV approved, and made in Germany.  I spoke to the folks at
Ronal about the offset and they said that because the wheels are much wider
than stock the offset is fine for the Vanagon application.  They have also
test fitted them on the Vanagon and you can see what they look like mounted
at:
http://www.ronalusa.com/cars/cars_html/vw_vanagon.html

I also asked them about the load rating on both of these rims and they are
both designed to be used on much heavier, off-road vehicles than the Vanagon
(Chevy Tahoe) so there is no problem there either.  Also they checked to see
if there was any interference with the wheel wells or sliding door and there
was none.  They also ran 205/55/16 tires on the wheels , w. a rolling
diameter of 24.83", compared to the stock, 185/75/14 w. a RD of 24.85" so
speedomenter and odometer error can be avoided as well.  I hope I have
answered any questions you may have.  Please email or call me if you are
interested in purchasing a set of these rims or have any more questions.  


Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242

________________________________________________________
Derek Drew                              New York, NY & Washington, DC
derekdrew@rcn.com                     212-580-6486
Email me for viscous couplings
'90 Syncro Westfalia...
...seen off-road at
Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) are:
      http://www.syncro.org  
My refrigerator article:
My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies:
To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article
To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator
To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires see
            ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:20:50 -0800 Reply-To: Michael aka ECHO Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael aka ECHO Subject: Re: Oh yes they can! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Uhm, since when? For more fun check out these two links..... http://www.gamespy.com/comics/littlegamers/index17.html http://www.gamespy.com/comics/littlegamers/index14.html (0: Hey ATLEAST you own something that resmebles a computer.. some ppl still use calculators or even paper and pen! Michael aka ECHO --- Andrew Grebneff wrote: > = > >Macintoshes cannot open ETKA CDs. > > > > > >With virtual PC or the "other" program, MAC's > become a PC. > > > >mark... > > > Er...yes. Kinda forgot about that. Must "borrow" a > Virtual PC CD from work... > > And despite popular "knowledge", of course Macs ARE > in fact PCs! > > Andrew ===== MY first VW! 1980 Vanagon L "D'Arius" LOOK a picture!!!http://www.geocities.com/echo207/vanagon.html Need any general computer help? Computer blonde? E-mail: echo207@excite.com and I will see what I can do to help. And a limping 84 buick Skylark __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:23:40 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Spam is good. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >But, at least it's healthy, right?< Healthy Spam? Isn't that an oxymoron? Mick ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:39:32 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: Spam is good. Comments: To: Mick Kalber In-Reply-To: <007e01c0b704$323d3c40$aa2bd5d1@hotlava> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII while we are talking about Spam... last weekend while at Costco they had free samples of fried Spam! Yikes! Yuck! -matthew Matthew Pollard http://www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 Dept. of Chemistry http://www.chem.uidaho.edu University of Idaho http://www.uidaho.edu On Tue, 27 Mar 2001, Mick Kalber wrote: > >But, at least it's healthy, right?< > > Healthy Spam? Isn't that an oxymoron? > > Mick > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:48:46 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: Spam is good. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Out here in the islands Spam is considered a delicacy... I once saw a Spam Cookbook. I thought it was a joke. It was not. In fact it turned out to be a best seller that year. Need I say more. Mick ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:10:03 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: To: Derek Drew Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/mixed; Boundary="0__=2gW7OJ8W0EoqafZynWeO2G9hDKMqbyIwGpE6MeYCVNQ021fPvfSqo2nW" --0__=2gW7OJ8W0EoqafZynWeO2G9hDKMqbyIwGpE6MeYCVNQ021fPvfSqo2nW Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The "correct" ET will change with rim width. You can only add wheel width to the outside, so the ET will be less as the wheel gets wider. ET is the off-set from wheel center-line? I would agree 7 or 7.5" wheels are probably too wide for the Vanagon. Jay Derek Drew on 03/27/2001 03:49:29 PM Please respond to Derek Drew To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM cc: (bcc: Jay L Snyder/AE/DuPont) Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! --0__=2gW7OJ8W0EoqafZynWeO2G9hDKMqbyIwGpE6MeYCVNQ021fPvfSqo2nW Content-type: text/html; name="att1.htm" Content-transfer-encoding: base64 Content-Description: Internet HTML PGh0bWw+DQpJIGFkdmlzZSBjYXV0aW9uIGFib3V0IHRoZXNlIFJvbmFsIHdoZWVscyBmZWxsb3cg bGlzdGVycy4gPGJyPg0KPGJyPg0KVGhlIHNtYWxsZXN0IEVUIHRoYXQgSSBoYXZlIGhlYXJkIG9m IGJlaW5nIHVzZWQgdHlwaWNhbGx5IHdpdGggVmFuYWdvbiBpcw0KRVQyMyB3aGVyZWFzIHRoZSBm YWN0b3J5IEVUcyBhcmUgRVQzMCBvciBFVDM0IHJhbmdlLiA8YnI+DQo8YnI+DQpTbywgaGF2aW5n IGFjY2VzcyB0byBhIHJpbSB0aGF0IGhhcyBFVCBvZiAwIHNlZW1zIGRpZmZlcmVudCBmcm9tIHRo ZQ0KZmFjdG9yeSBFVHMgdG8gYSBkZWdyZWUgdGhhdCBzZWVtcyBsYXJnZSBvciBib3JkZXJzIG9u IGV4dHJlbWUuIEkgd291bGQNCmFsc28gYmUgY2F1dGlvdXMgYWJvdXQgRVQxNS4gPGJyPg0KPGJy Pg0KVGhlIHByb2JsZW0gd2l0aCBhbiBFVCB0aGF0IGlzIG1pc21hdGNoZWQgdG8gdGhlIHZlaGlj 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14:18:48 -0800 Reply-To: "David C. Fiore" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "David C. Fiore" Subject: Jump Seat MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I apologize in advance if this topic has been discussed at length recently (I couldn't find it). I'd like to put a "jump seat" behind the passenger seat in my 87 Westy. These seats are like theater seats in that the seat folds up. Does anybody have experience w/these? How much should I expect to pay for a seat? Do you know where I could get one? How hard are they to install? How safe? What should I pay to have it done? Thanks, david ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:23:10 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: To: derekdrew@rcn.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f9.87a65d2.27f26cce_boundary" --part1_f9.87a65d2.27f26cce_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would just like to say that Ronal is a company that has a very good reputation for wheels. They would not recommend a wheel for the Vanagon application that they weren't sure would not damage the vehicle in any way. In fact I have been in touch with them for over a month now, and the whole reason that they have not advertised these wheels for the Vanagon before is that they wanted to fit them on a van and test them before selling them (German companies don't like to do anything that would stain their reputation). I also addressed the sliding door issue in my earlier post and the wheels do NOT interfere with the sliding door or hit anywhere else. I feel that if you are looking for nice 16" rims, here they are ready to buy. If you are looking for a wheel that doesn't exsist, that is fine too, but please don't discourage others from buying a perfectly good product. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_f9.87a65d2.27f26cce_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would just like to say that Ronal is a company that has a very good
reputation for wheels.  They would not recommend a wheel for the Vanagon
application that they weren't sure would not damage the vehicle in any way.  
In fact I have been in touch with them for over a month now, and the whole
reason that they have not advertised these wheels for the Vanagon before is
that they wanted to fit them on a van and test them before selling them
(German companies don't like to do anything that would stain their
reputation).  I also addressed the sliding door issue in my earlier post and
the wheels do NOT interfere with the sliding door or hit anywhere else.  I
feel that if you are looking for nice 16" rims, here they are ready to buy.  
If you are looking for a wheel that doesn't exsist, that is fine too, but
please don't discourage others from buying a perfectly good product.    

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_f9.87a65d2.27f26cce_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:39:25 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Sullivan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Sullivan Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: To: Jay L Snyder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Huh? I've been running 14x7" ET23 rims on my Westy for years. I currently run 15x7" ET23 rims on my Doublecab. 7" width is great for a Vanagon!! 7 1/2" will probably work fine also. Cheers, MJS -----Original Message----- From: Jay L Snyder [mailto:Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM] I would agree 7 or 7.5" wheels are probably too wide for the Vanagon. Jay ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:51:26 -0600 Reply-To: Shawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Subject: idle adjustment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B6DE.2A08F940" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B6DE.2A08F940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is there an idle adjustment on the 84 or is this controlled by the ECU. thanks shawn ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B6DE.2A08F940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is there an idle adjustment on the 84 = or is=20 this
controlled by the ECU.
thanks
shawn
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0B6DE.2A08F940-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 14:49:39 -0800 Reply-To: james peters Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: james peters Subject: Re: Spam is good. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed In Hawaii the locals love the spam sushi. (Musubi) Sounds like some sort of vanagon (required content)engine conversion kit. http://homepage.mac.com/jfancher/.Pictures/spam.jpg Rick From: Matthew Pollard Reply-To: Matthew Pollard To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Spam is good. Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:39:32 -0800 while we are talking about Spam... last weekend while at Costco they had free samples of fried Spam! Yikes! Yuck! -matthew Matthew Pollard http://www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 Dept. of Chemistry http://www.chem.uidaho.edu University of Idaho http://www.uidaho.edu On Tue, 27 Mar 2001, Mick Kalber wrote: > >But, at least it's healthy, right?< > > Healthy Spam? Isn't that an oxymoron? > > Mick > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:09:40 -0800 Reply-To: Chris D'Amico Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris D'Amico Subject: sounds from speedo.. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii hey all. has anyone had a noisy speedometer? mine has started to make a rattling noise that gets louder/stronger as i go faster (hence i figured it was the speedo). any info would be appreciated. chris 89 wolfie weekender __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:34:38 +1000 Reply-To: P&J Lander Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: P&J Lander Subject: Re: [Syncro] Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: To: Derek Drew Comments: cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01C0B761.ED329600" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C0B761.ED329600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My alloy wheels are 15 X 7 ET24 and they only just clear the sliding = door so I think that ET0 could cause problems. Phill Lander http://www.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/volkswagen_syncro.htm ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Derek Drew=20 To: VANAGON@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com=20 Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 6:49 AM Subject: [Syncro] Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! I advise caution about these Ronal wheels fellow listers.=20 The smallest ET that I have heard of being used typically with Vanagon = is ET23 whereas the factory ETs are ET30 or ET34 range.=20 So, having access to a rim that has ET of 0 seems different from the = factory ETs to a degree that seems large or borders on extreme. I would = also be cautious about ET15.=20 The problem with an ET that is mismatched to the vehicles OEM specs is = either that the tire will hit someplace, or more importantly that the = wheel will not sit on the bearings the way the manufacturer intended, = which can lead to premature bearing wear. Most articles I have read = about wheels are very explicit about the importance of keeping to a = factory ET in order to minimize bearing wear.=20 The main reason for selecting 16" wheels over 15" wheels is so that = very large diameter tires can used, in my view. Such very large tires, = however, easily hit the sliding door and other body panel parts and so a = very small ET, such as ET15, may have a worse tendency to cause the = tires to hit. You can read about some of the hitting problems in the = large tires article referenced in my Vanagon SIG below.=20 I think we should keep looking until we find a 16" wheel in the range = of ET25 to ET28 or so, which seems to be an ideal range. If these cannot = be located, I am quite certain that there are ET23-ET25 wheels to be = had, which I judge a safer bet than ET15.=20 At 11:08 AM 3/27/01 -0500, you wrote: I am please to announce that Van-Again has, with the help of the = good folks=20 at Ronal, found two of their rims that fit the Vanagon perfectly and = that we=20 can sell at a reasonable price. =20 The first is the R-28 16x7.5 with a ET 15 offset. These are = pictured here on=20 Ronals website http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r28.html.=20 These would sell for $220 each. =20 The other rim that is available is the R-36 16x7 with a ET 0 offset. = These=20 are pictured at:=20 http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r36.html=20 These would sell for $210 each.=20 These are new, TUV approved, and made in Germany. I spoke to the = folks at=20 Ronal about the offset and they said that because the wheels are = much wider=20 than stock the offset is fine for the Vanagon application. They = have also=20 test fitted them on the Vanagon and you can see what they look like = mounted=20 at:=20 http://www.ronalusa.com/cars/cars_html/vw_vanagon.html=20 I also asked them about the load rating on both of these rims and = they are=20 both designed to be used on much heavier, off-road vehicles than the = Vanagon=20 (Chevy Tahoe) so there is no problem there either. Also they = checked to see=20 if there was any interference with the wheel wells or sliding door = and there=20 was none. They also ran 205/55/16 tires on the wheels , w. a = rolling=20 diameter of 24.83", compared to the stock, 185/75/14 w. a RD of = 24.85" so=20 speedomenter and odometer error can be avoided as well. I hope I = have=20 answered any questions you may have. Please email or call me if you = are=20 interested in purchasing a set of these rims or have any more = questions. =20 Thanks,=20 Ken Wilford=20 John 3:16=20 www.vanagain.com=20 Phone: (856)-765-1583=20 Fax: (856)-327-2242=20 ________________________________________________________ Derek Drew New York, NY & Washington, DC derekdrew@rcn.com 212-580-6486 Email me for viscous couplings '90 Syncro Westfalia...=20 ...seen off-road at=20 http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/Syncro_Madness_Area.htm Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) are: http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=3Dvanagon ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro=20 http://www.vanagon.com=20 http://www.syncro.org =20 My refrigerator article:=20 = http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/Refrigerator/Reefer_Madness.htm My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies:=20 ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/auto-insurance-madness.html=20 To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/fitbigtiresonvanagon.htm=20 To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/syncrotireandgearratios.xls=20 To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires see = http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels%2C%20Tires%20%26%20= Gearing/Wheel%20%26%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_Arm.jpg =20 If you would like to modify your subscription settings (including = unsubscribing), visit: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro Please remember that rude or offensive language is not allowed on the = Syncro list. Please try your best to resolve differences privately and = keep them off the list. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C0B761.ED329600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My alloy wheels are 15 X 7 ET24 and they only = just clear=20 the sliding door so I think that ET0 could cause problems.
 
Phill Lander
 
http:/= /www.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/volkswagen_syncro.htm
 

 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Derek = Drew=20
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 = 6:49=20 AM
Subject: [Syncro] Re: Ronal 16" = Rims=20 available from Van-Again Now!

I advise caution about these Ronal wheels fellow = listers.=20

The smallest ET that I have heard of being used typically with = Vanagon=20 is ET23 whereas the factory ETs are ET30 or ET34 range.

So, = having=20 access to a rim that has ET of 0 seems different from the factory ETs = to a=20 degree that seems large or borders on extreme. I would also be = cautious about=20 ET15.

The problem with an ET that is mismatched to the = vehicles OEM=20 specs is either that the tire will hit someplace, or more importantly = that the=20 wheel will not sit on the bearings the way the manufacturer intended, = which=20 can lead to premature bearing wear. Most articles I have read about = wheels are=20 very explicit about the importance of keeping to a factory ET in order = to=20 minimize bearing wear.

The main reason for selecting 16" = wheels over=20 15" wheels is so that very large diameter tires can used, in my view. = Such=20 very large tires, however, easily hit the sliding door and other body = panel=20 parts and so a very small ET, such as ET15, may have a worse tendency = to cause=20 the tires to hit. You can read about some of the hitting problems in = the large=20 tires article referenced in my Vanagon SIG below.

I think we = should=20 keep looking until we find a 16" wheel in the range of ET25 to ET28 or = so,=20 which seems to be an ideal range. If these cannot be located, I am = quite=20 certain that there are ET23-ET25 wheels to be had, which I judge a = safer bet=20 than ET15.

At 11:08 AM 3/27/01 -0500, you wrote:
I am please = to announce=20 that Van-Again has, with the help of the good folks
at Ronal, = found two=20 of their rims that fit the Vanagon perfectly and that we
can = sell at a=20 reasonable price.  

The first is the R-28 16x7.5 = with a ET=20 15 offset.  These are pictured here on
Ronals website http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r28.html.=20
These would sell for $220 each.  

The other = rim that=20 is available is the R-36 16x7 with a ET 0 offset.  These =
are=20 pictured at:
http://www.ronalusa.com/wheels/wheels_html/r36.html=20
These would sell for $210 each.

These are new, TUV = approved, and=20 made in Germany.  I spoke to the folks at
Ronal about the = offset=20 and they said that because the wheels are much wider
than stock = the=20 offset is fine for the Vanagon application.  They have also =
test=20 fitted them on the Vanagon and you can see what they look like = mounted=20
at:
http://www.ronalusa.com/cars/cars_html/vw_vanagon.html= =20

I also asked them about the load rating on both of these = rims and=20 they are
both designed to be used on much heavier, off-road = vehicles=20 than the Vanagon
(Chevy Tahoe) so there is no problem there=20 either.  Also they checked to see
if there was any = interference=20 with the wheel wells or sliding door and there
was none.  = They also=20 ran 205/55/16 tires on the wheels , w. a rolling
diameter of = 24.83",=20 compared to the stock, 185/75/14 w. a RD of 24.85" so =
speedomenter and=20 odometer error can be avoided as well.  I hope I have =
answered any=20 questions you may have.  Please email or call me if you are=20
interested in purchasing a set of these rims or have any more=20 questions.  


Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John = 3:16=20
www.vanagain.com=20
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242=20

________________________________________________________
Derek=20 = Drew           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;     =20 New York, NY & Washington, DC
=
derekdrew@rcn.com                  &= nbsp; =20 212-580-6486
Email me for viscous couplings
'90 Syncro Westfalia...
...seen off-road at
Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) = are:
      http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=3Dvanagon
      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro
      http://www.syncro.org  
My refrigerator article:
       http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/Refrigerator/Reef= er_Madness.htm
My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies: =
       ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/auto-insurance-madness.htm= l=20
To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article
       http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/fitbigtiresonvanagon.ht= m=20
To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator
       http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/syncrotireandgearratios= .xls=20
To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires = see
      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels%= 2C%20Tires%20%26%20Gearing/Wheel%20%26%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_A= rm.jpg
         &nb= sp; =20
If you would like to modify your subscription settings = (including=20 unsubscribing), visit:
http://groups.yahoo.com/gro= up/Syncro
Please=20 remember that rude or offensive language is not allowed on the Syncro = list.=20 Please try your best to resolve differences privately and keep them = off the=20 = list.














Your=20 use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of = Service.=20
------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C0B761.ED329600-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:40:07 -0800 Reply-To: Bill Kasper Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Kasper Subject: Re: Spam is good. Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit on 3/27/01 2:49 PM, james peters at rickenhacker@HOTMAIL.COM wrote: > In Hawaii the locals love the spam sushi. (Musubi) > Sounds like some sort of vanagon (required content)engine conversion kit. > > http://homepage.mac.com/jfancher/.Pictures/spam.jpg i suppose it *is* a little bit like anago...NOT. my wife's mother (who is english) loves spam, not only for its texture, taste, and shelf life, but for its association as *the* meat she ate after the second world war. tins and tins of the stuff, apparently. and to think, when i was a kid, my dad loved nothing more than to serve spam'n'eggs to us when mom worked. i am never going to let him ride in our vanagon (req.v.c.). bill '87 syncro westfalia http://www.scruznet.com/~cikasper/pics/westy ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:31:56 -0330 Reply-To: Karl Dawe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Dawe Subject: Re: ETKA CD ON MAC Comments: cc: radish150@earthlink.net In-Reply-To: <3AC118C0.727BF4DD@earthlink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Before I start - let me state for the record that all of this is based on the assumption that the ETKA CD contains software, and not just doc files. That out of the way, when you create a CD that is readable by both a IBM-PC and a MAC, the only thing that you are modifying is the way that the data is stored on the CD. It does nothing for the compatibility of the files that it stores. A Windows program will still require a machine running Windows (or a Windows emulator), you'll just be able to SEE the files on your Mac. The same thing works the other way too. A Mac program burned onto a Dual format CD will be visible to someone running an IBM-PC, but they would still need a MAC (or, again, an emulator) in order to run the software. I don't know if that makes it easier to figure out.... if not, just drop me a line agan, and I'll give it another go. :) Karl. On Tue, 27 Mar 2001, radish150 wrote: > Really? Explain? I would think that it would take a PC format and simply convert it > to a format that was readable by mac... are you sure? Please elaborate. > > thanks > mark... > > Karl Dawe wrote: > > > Mark, > > The dual format won't matter if the ETKA runs a Windoze program. You'd be > > able to see it, no problem. But it still wouldn't run on a Mac. > > > > Karl. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf > > Of radish150 > > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 2:49 PM > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: ETKA CD ON MAC > > > > As for the matter of opening a PC CD on a mac, you can use a program called > > "Virtual PC". It is a "windows emulator" and allows your computer to act > > just like a wintel machine. I've used it before, and it does work well. > > There is another program that I forgot the name of but it's a Gates > > creation, don't know much about it but I hear it does the same thing. > > > > BUT, acutally.... if those who opt to burn for us will simply burn these in > > "dual platform" format, all will be well without the need for any emulators. > > It MAY be that only "toast" for mac has this dual platform capability but I > > doubt it. Can a PC burner owner comment on this? > > > > Ok, I will agree to do 10 or so these dual platform CD's for the mac owners > > if it will help. > > > > Mark... > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:11:17 -0500 Reply-To: MF Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: MF Subject: Thanks ( wont start when warm conclusion) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B6F1.B3609A00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B6F1.B3609A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks again to the list member who suggested that I replace the temp 2 = sensor. The van starts great at all temperatures now. Matt ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B6F1.B3609A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks again to the list member who = suggested that=20 I replace the temp 2 sensor.
The van starts great at all = temperatures=20 now.
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0B6F1.B3609A00-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:01:07 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Subject: HARD to take it out of first and reverse MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_05E9_01C0B6DF.83D1C960" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_05E9_01C0B6DF.83D1C960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable As the headline says. I did adjust before to put it in first easier = which did work. But now it won't come out of first and reverse and it = seems to get a little worse. The clutch seems to bee fine. What's up? = Anyone for this? Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_05E9_01C0B6DF.83D1C960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
As the headline says.  I did = adjust before to=20 put it in first easier which did work.  But now it won't come out = of first=20 and reverse and it seems to get a little worse.  The clutch seems = to bee=20 fine.  What's up?  Anyone for this?
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_05E9_01C0B6DF.83D1C960-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:06:56 -0800 Reply-To: phil stanhope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: phil stanhope Subject: Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? In-Reply-To: <20010327140526.247.cpmta@c001.snv.cp.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii '80 Westy Pokey wrote: " The front cover of Bently has two great line drawings, if someone scanned them I'm sure I could get them from yellow on green to black and white." I want to silkscreen a shirt w/ a design like this. Does any body have it scanned? Could you e-mail it to me? Phil 84' all white Westfalia "Millenium Falcon" 84' all brown Rustfalia/Wolfy GL "Sh*thawk" 8100 AV PPC 100Mhz B+W G3 450 MHz 256mg ram --- '80 Westy Pokey wrote: > I always wanted to put out the same appeal to the > list. The front cover of Bently has two great line > drawings, if someone scanned them I'm sure I could > get them from yellow on green to black and white. > > Thanks, > Chris > > On Mon, 26 March 2001, Gina Godat wrote: > > > > > SIZE=2>Does anyone have a simple line drawing of an > any year Vanagon? I just wanna > >
play around creating paint schemes on one. I > was gonna make one look like an > >
MCI Renaissance motorcoach.....heheheh > >
> >
Buslady > >
Vanagonless > >
going kookoo > > Thanks, > Chris Gronski > '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY > '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer > '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable > www.vanagon.org & .ca > www.gronski.com, .org, & .ca > www.nineeleven.org & .ca __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:40:25 -0800 Reply-To: aatransaxle@JUNO.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Daryl Christensen Subject: Re: HARD to take it out of first and reverse Comments: To: zol@FOXINTERNET.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit May be the pilot bearing in the end of the crank..usually gets worse when hot... On Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:01:07 -0800 Zoltan writes: > As the headline says. I did adjust before to put it in first easier > which did work. But now it won't come out of first and reverse and > it seems to get a little worse. The clutch seems to bee fine. > What's up? Anyone for this? > Zoltan Daryl of AA Transaxle Duvall, WA.(Seattle area) (425) 788-4070 1-877-377-0773 toll free http://www.aatransaxle.com (web site) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:37:43 +0000 Reply-To: jboldway@INTCON.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "James T." Subject: headlight advice Howdy! I need some advice - anybody know the output of the H4 euro style round halogen headlights offered at places like the Bus Depot versus the light output from regular halogens like sylvania? I want the best lighting I can get but don't want to spend money for something that's just different and not any better than regular halogens. Thanks in advance! Tom Boldway '85 Westy "Panzerkampingwagen" --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:44:16 -0500 Reply-To: "Christopher T. Berchin" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Christopher T. Berchin" Subject: Rear Opening Dimension Needed on Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00CE_01C0B6FE.B042F360" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00CE_01C0B6FE.B042F360 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi everyone. I'm still learning about the Vanagon and all its = iterations, and I just learned that later vans have a rear A/C system = that reduces the width of the rear opening. I managed to find a picture = of this (nice shot of it on www.vanagon.com in the 1990 dealer = brochure), and it sure does reduce the opening. Can someone out there = with a van like this measure the inside width of the rear opening? I = measured an earlier van without this when I first got the idea of = getting a Vanagon, and that was plenty wide. However, this A/C duct = could change things. Can anyone help? Thanks a ton! Chris ------=_NextPart_000_00CE_01C0B6FE.B042F360 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi everyone.  I'm still learning about the Vanagon and all its = iterations, and I just learned that later vans have a rear A/C system = that=20 reduces the width of the rear opening.  I managed to find a picture = of this=20 (nice shot of it on www.vanagon.com in the=20 1990 dealer brochure), and it sure does reduce the opening.  Can = someone=20 out there with a van like this measure the inside width of the rear=20 opening?  I measured an earlier van without this when I first got = the idea=20 of getting a Vanagon, and that was plenty wide.  However, this A/C = duct=20 could change things.  Can anyone help?  Thanks a ton!

Chris
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_00CE_01C0B6FE.B042F360-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:36:50 -0500 Reply-To: stephen de la salle Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: stephen de la salle Subject: Anyone want to Ship a Car/Van/Motorcycle/boat Detroit to UK? Comments: To: type2@type2.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I will be shipping my van from Detroit to England at the end of April / Early May I'd prefer to use a container - preferably a 40' er. If I can find someone else with similar plans then we can split costs - which then become a lot more reasonable. So, If anyone wants to 'Share' a 40' container, Detroit to Southern England late April/Early May ....then contact me ASAP. Here's you chance to tour the UK & Europe! Steve ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:48:42 -0800 Reply-To: Michel Petit Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michel Petit Subject: Re: Speedo stopped working Comments: To: "Spooner, Robert E." In-Reply-To: <1E3B63268E70484BB2F62357FC56B6BE1A5155@middletownpwr1.nrgenergy.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Bob, My speedo used to get stuck on cold mornings. However the odometer worked. Is yours? I used to tap the speedo to get it working. It worked for a few years before it quit altogether. --- "Spooner, Robert E." wrote: > On the way home last night, the speedo worked as it should: showing the > speed and recording the miles. This morning: nothing. It is the coldest > overnight since I've owned this thing, so that may have something to do with > it. Any suggestions? > > Thanks > > Bob > East Haddam, CT ===== Michel Petit STOC 1144 CIW 627 Montréal, Québec When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:42:00 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: Van won't start when warm Comments: To: moby@COASTALNET.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=--__JNP_000_1a3f.7f04.37fe This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ----__JNP_000_1a3f.7f04.37fe Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Matt; How's the timing? Ken Lewis http://neksiwel.20m.com On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:36:25 -0500 MF writes: I just finished putting a used 1.9L in my 84' wolfsburg. The engine seems to run start fine when cold, one crank and it starts. Once the engine reaches operating temp though, it is very difficult to restart. The idle is always smooth and consistant, about 900 RPM. The starter and battery seem very strong also, it always cranks. Any ideas? Thanks Matt ----__JNP_000_1a3f.7f04.37fe Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Matt;
        How's the timing?

Ken Lewis
http://neksiwel.20m.com
 
On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 20:36:25 -0500 MF <moby@COASTALNET.COM> writes:
I just finished putting a used 1.9L in = my 84'=20 wolfsburg.  The engine seems to run start fine when cold, one crank = and=20 it starts.  Once the engine reaches operating temp though, it is = very=20 difficult to restart.  The idle is always smooth and consistant, = about=20 900 RPM.  The starter and battery seem very strong also, it always=20 cranks.
Any ideas?  Thanks
 
Matt
 
----__JNP_000_1a3f.7f04.37fe-- ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:51:30 -0400 Reply-To: Chad Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad Subject: Idle RPM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit what should a 1.9L engine idle at? Mine is never consistent but is usually around 900RPM. Does that should right? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:57:22 EST Reply-To: Awf986@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "John \"Shaggy\" Donovan" Subject: how much? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Howdy all, I wonder if you can give me a ballpark for how much a rust free 90,000 1988 Vanagon(GL I think) that needs a motor is worth? One on my friends has it, and I was thinking about putting in a 2.7 911 Porsche engine in it. any comments on this conversion, or what will be needed would be appreciated. Thanks Shaggy ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:58:16 -0600 Reply-To: tintman Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: tintman Subject: Re: Soundproofing Comments: To: Mark Ingalls MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit has anyone heard of some stuff that u spray on thats called VB-4. i cant recall the company that made it but a high end car audio store would carry it. I have not used in in my vaagon but my type2 is silent. The guy i got it from recommends to put VB-4 down first and then dynamat IF nessary. DRAW BACK: price 60.00 a gallon and u gotta supply air compressor and gun. 1 gallon will do a type 2 so mabye a little more for a vanagon Scott Cedar Rapids IA Trim Tint and Auto Accessories ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Ingalls To: Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 2:42 AM Subject: Soundproofing > Here's an alternative to Dyna-mat that I nabbed from the aircooled website. > > > www.mcmaster.com > > item #9709T18 > > > I ordered 2 sheets (32"X 54" @ $12.79 a sheet), I'll report how well it > works. > > > I also ordered a 0-60# pressure gauge for $11.44. Item #4000K43. > > Mark Ingalls > 85 GL > 75 Beetle > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:06:26 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Drillock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Drillock Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry Ken, but 7" and 7.5" ET0 is not a good fit and ET15 is not so great either. The suggestion that they fit fine with 205 tires is a joke IMHO as the rim itself is wider than the tire tread with that setup. Rim damage is virtually assured. Rims of this width are better suited to 225 - 255 width tires but of course these WILL hit the sliding door. Using 55 series tires is another joke on a Vanagon as these heavy vehicles need more space for tire deflection on speed bumps or pot holes. More rim damage. Mark KENWILFY@AOL.COM wrote: > > I would just like to say that Ronal is a company that has a very good > reputation for wheels. They would not recommend a wheel for the > Vanagon > application that they weren't sure would not damage the vehicle in any > way. > In fact I have been in touch with them for over a month now, and the > whole > reason that they have not advertised these wheels for the Vanagon > before is > that they wanted to fit them on a van and test them before selling > them > (German companies don't like to do anything that would stain their > reputation). I also addressed the sliding door issue in my earlier > post and > the wheels do NOT interfere with the sliding door or hit anywhere > else. I > feel that if you are looking for nice 16" rims, here they are ready to > buy. > If you are looking for a wheel that doesn't exsist, that is fine too, > but > please don't discourage others from buying a perfectly good product. > > > Thanks, > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com > Phone: (856)-765-1583 > Fax: (856)-327-2242 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:03:34 -0500 Reply-To: "Warren Chapman (by way of Derek Drew )" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Warren Chapman (by way of Derek Drew )" Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Comments: To: Syncro@onelist.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Not too long ago I did a big investigation on the offset question with regard to my interest in 235/75-15 tires. A friend had Momo 15" wheels with this size BFG AT's. His offset was ET 38. Clearance to both front and rear suspension was less than 1/2". Same with sliding door clearance I posted photos of the van and all the clearances in the "Files" section and to syncro.org. I thought this offest of ET 38 to be too close to the steering arms in front and rear trailing arms in the rear. I agree that ET 23-28 seems ideal. That would give another half inch of interor clearance. Michael Sullivan has ET23 on his double cab and is happy but he has no sliding door. For less offset rims that cause sliding door problems, it is easy enough to make an extension for the sliding door rear hing. (I think a longer hinge is even available from some list vendors. I agree that the ET 0-15 seems extreme. Not sure about stress on suspension and bearings this would cause, as well as spray mud all over the exterior sides of the van. Get some big mud flaps. My 2 cents. Warren Chapman ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:53:56 -0500 Reply-To: Angus Gordon Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Angus Gordon Subject: Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >Does anyone have a simple line drawing of an any year Vanagon? I just wanna >play around creating paint schemes on one. I was gonna make one look like an >MCI Renaissance motorcoach.....heheheh Here are line drawings of both a camper and van - http://home.dencity.com/birdworks/vw/camper.gif http://home.dencity.com/birdworks/vw/van.gif Angus ================================ Angus Gordon '89 Carat Delta, Ohio '86 Syncro ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:03:42 EST Reply-To: VWLVR1055@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Feldstein Subject: 82 Westy A/C MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just a question for anyone who has an '82 Westy with the rear (factory) airconditioning unit hanging from the ceiling. Does anyone know where one can purchase a used compressor for the unit? Mine works now that I have had it filled with freon, but still, the compressor is surely on the way out. The A/C people say there is a small leak around the seal of the compressor. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. David Feldstein, Atlanta, GA. 1982 Medium Blue Westy (daily commuter) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:20:02 -0500 Reply-To: "The Bus Depot, Inc." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "The Bus Depot, Inc." Subject: Re: 82 Westy A/C Comments: To: VWLVR1055@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Does anyone know where one can purchase a used compressor? Mine works now that > I have had it filled with freon, but still, the compressor is surely on the way out. If you don't find a used one, I keep new ones in stock. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. www.busdepot.com (215) 234-VWVW ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:24:30 -0600 Reply-To: "Smola, Tony" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Smola, Tony" Subject: HORROR STORY MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" When I had my front wheels balanced at a local allignment shop, the guy who did the speed balance, lifted on the gas tank supports and crushed the gas tank. I showed him the damage and gave him an estimate for a new tank and hoses. He asked if he could do the work to save on labor. I agreed if he would install a gel-coated tank and replace all of the vent lines and fuel lines and grommets. The loaner car he gave me was a 83' Tempo with no operable windows, no A/C and smelled like mildew. When I picked up the van 4 days later I noticed he had installed a nasty junk yard tank which spilled gas when filled up ( probably those vent lines). Anyway called him and told him I was going to bring the van back to him to do the job rightthe next week. Of course the next day on the way to work, the fuel pump failed. I took it to the dealer, chunks of rust had gone from the tank into the pump and locked it up. ( no filter between the tank and pump) I had the mechanic that screwed the whole thing up go to the dealer to confirm that the tank had chunks of rust floating in it. When the service manager gave him a hard time for doing such a shoddy job he agreed to pay for a new VW tank, a new fuel pump, sending unit and all of the necessary hoses. The total was over a $1000. And he had to pay for the car rental ( 2000 jetta) for 3 days. So the horror story has a happy ending, but only after alot of anguish, being late to work twice. Driving a Tempo for 4 days. And the grilling by the wife who said I should have demanded the new tank by the dealer in the first place. I fought for her like a knight when her car was damaged by the valet. And here I slack on my own behalf just because I felt sorry for that mechanic who crushed the tank. I lucked out. He could have fought it all the way until small claims court. So protect your own ass and get the job done right, especially on a van which you drive into the boonies, ( westy) Is there a filter that goes between the tank and the pump? I have the new tank design with the larger diameter feed line. Malibu Tony 85' Westy 8 degrees BTDC ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:46:08 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: headlight advice Comments: To: jboldway@INTCON.NET In-Reply-To: <200103280137.f2S1bbN17165@linux.intcon.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:37 PM 3/27/2001, James T. wrote: >Howdy! >I need some advice - anybody know the output of the H4 euro style round >halogen >headlights offered at places like the Bus Depot versus the light output from >regular halogens like sylvania? The E-code headlights are miles ahead of SAE headlights. They have good illumination on high beams, but the really outstanding part is the light pattern of the low beams. US-spec lights are literally thirty years behind here. Get the E-code lights, and my suggestion would be to get recognizable ones (Hella/Bosch/Cibie) and expect to pay around $50 apiece including standard 55/60W bulbs. If you want to use more powerful bulbs (note: I'm *not* recommending this unless you have special needs) you will need to upgrade your switching and wiring first. In fact you will get a noticeable increase in output simply by beefing up the wiring for the standard bulbs, at the expense of some bulb life, of course. david >I want the best lighting I can get but don't >want to spend money for something that's just different and not any better >than >regular halogens. > >Thanks in advance! > >Tom Boldway >'85 Westy >"Panzerkampingwagen" > >--------------------------------------------- >This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. >http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:06:04 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: ETKA software for Mac MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Before I start - let me state for the record that all of this is based on > the assumption that the ETKA CD contains software, and not just doc files. Ah, if that's the case and there is a windows "program" on there then it would indeed require an emulator. But is this an "assumption" or an established fact? And how important is the "program"? Is it just a glorified search ap? Because all we really need are the documents, right? PDF is a lovely format for such things, a listmember a few weeks ago sent me the ETKA PDF docs for years 83 and 86 which were very helpful until my computer swallowed them during an epileptic fit. The point is they were very helpful without the "program". Maybe a listmember could convert them all into PDF's and we could have a mac version without the application program? I'd do it but I don't have Virtual PC. I know we mac people are a minority, you guy's should treat us well, because we really control the world. The PC users are just not part of the cognoscenti. We do have a part of our organization who's job it is to interface with the public. Mostly these operate under the guise of "public service clubs", but the true nature of these are very different than they appear. Most members of these "clubs" never become aware of the true nature of the organization they think they have just joined. A very select few though, if they are of the "right mind" and come from the right families, can rise though the ranks to a position of some knowledge. The total picture is never known to any but those at the top of the pyramid, and as you go down the ranks, the people only know the part of the picture that they can see from their position on down. Each position is manipulated by the levels above them, and they in turn manipulate the positions below them. This is how we run the world. All knowledge is compartmentalized, need to know basis. The really interesting part is what occurs at the top of the pyramid. Look on your dollar bill, what does the eye represent? God? Nope, it's the all seeing eye of... MAC. All macs are actually much more than just personal computers. This is just a small part of the job they perform for their operators. They are very powerful tools that are connected directly to the huge mainframes in Belgium and certain places on the East coast of the US. These are the computers that keep track of every move each of you make, there are no secrets anymore. In fact, this ETKA thing is just a test, the results are being recorded now, and some of you are being marked for a very special mission that you will not remember when you are done. Some of us are dissenters from within, you will never know who we are. I must go, my life is in danger. mark... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:31:14 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: (NVC) FREE Saab 900 Turbo in San francisco!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f9.87f619f.27f2c312_boundary" --part1_f9.87f619f.27f2c312_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Car is parked down off 3rd st in SF...black...135k...5spd turbo...leather/sunroof(when it works)...no body damage/little rust...at this point it may need some transmission work-it froze up and will definately need to be towed...I want $100 bucks to cover my parking tickets...do you know anything about Saabs? You should if you take this car. Still interested? Respond, ASAP. -D --- JordanVw@aol.com wrote: > where is the car? color? miles? 5spd? interior? body > damage? > thx > chris --part1_f9.87f619f.27f2c312_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Car is parked down off 3rd st in
SF...black...135k...5spd turbo...leather/sunroof(when
it works)...no body damage/little rust...at this point
it may need some transmission work-it froze up and
will definately need to be towed...I want $100 bucks to cover my parking
tickets...do you know anything about Saabs? You
should if you take this car. Still interested?
Respond, ASAP. -D
--- JordanVw@aol.com wrote:
> where is the car? color? miles? 5spd? interior? body
> damage?
> thx
> chris
--part1_f9.87f619f.27f2c312_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:37:10 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: FREE dash, beetle engine (turns) FREE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_72.903a7ca.27f2c476_boundary" --part1_72.903a7ca.27f2c476_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit got a free vanagon dash, and a free 1500cc bug engine (turns, thats all i know), come get em. chris allentown, pa --part1_72.903a7ca.27f2c476_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit got a free vanagon dash, and a free 1500cc bug engine (turns, thats all i
know),  come get em.  
chris
allentown, pa --part1_72.903a7ca.27f2c476_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:35:18 AMERICA/FORT_WAYNE Reply-To: Andrew Payton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Payton Subject: Re: ETKA software for Mac... or not Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Howsabout we just forget the whole MAC hooplah... The real question we o= ught to be answerin is what do all those laptop users do out there that got th= e nice 'puters with the lil' screens? I'd hate to think I have a nice piec= e of machinery that's worthless in that area. Andrew Payton 82 Vanagon radish150 wrote: > > Before I start - let me state for the record that all of this is base= d on > > the assumption that the ETKA CD contains software, and not just doc files. > = > Ah, if that's the case and there is a windows "program" on there then i= t would indeed require an emulator. But is this an "assumption" or an established fact? And how important is the "program"? Is it just a glorif= ied search ap? Because all we really need are the documents, right? PDF is a lovely format for such things, a listmember a > few weeks ago sent me the ETKA PDF docs for years 83 and 86 which were = very helpful until my computer swallowed them during an epileptic fit. The poi= nt is they were very helpful without the "program". Maybe a listmember could co= nvert them all into PDF's and we could have a mac version without the applicati= on program? I'd do it but I > don't have Virtual PC. > = > I know we mac people are a minority, you guy's should treat us well, be= cause we really control the world. The PC users are just not part of the cognoscenti. We do have a part of our organization who's job it is to interface with the public. Mostly these operate under the guise of "publi= c service clubs", but the true nature of these are > very different than they appear. Most members of these "clubs" never be= come aware of the true nature of the organization they think they have just jo= ined. A very select few though, if they are of the "right mind" and come from t= he right families, can rise though the ranks to a position of some knowledge= =2E The total picture is never known > to any but those at the top of the pyramid, and as you go down the rank= s, the people only know the part of the picture that they can see from their= position on down. Each position is manipulated by the levels above them, = and they in turn manipulate the positions below them. This is how we run the world. All knowledge is > compartmentalized, need to know basis. The really interesting part is w= hat occurs at the top of the pyramid. Look on your dollar bill, what does the= eye represent? God? Nope, it's the all seeing eye of... MAC. All macs are act= ually much more than just personal computers. This is just a small part of the = job they perform for their > operators. They are very powerful tools that are connected directly to = the huge mainframes in Belgium and certain places on the East coast of the US= =2E These are the computers that keep track of every move each of you make, t= here are no secrets anymore. In fact, this ETKA thing is just a test, the resu= lts are being recorded now, and some > of you are being marked for a very special mission that you will not remember when you are done. Some of us are dissenters from within, you wi= ll never know who we are. I must go, my life is in danger. > = > mark... ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:09:03 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Idle RPM Comments: To: Chad Yup Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad" To: Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:51 PM Subject: Idle RPM > what should a 1.9L engine idle at? Mine is never consistent but is usually > around 900RPM. Does that should right? > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:12:34 +0000 Reply-To: jboldway@INTCON.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "James T." Subject: Re: shifting problems Comments: cc: jboldway@cottagesoft.com Howdy - thought I'd pass on some info - my shifting in my '85 panzerkampingwagen was getting harder and harder, finally I couldn't get 2nd gear even after i adjusted the linkage. Then I could hear a whine coming from the transmission - uh-oh - I was worried about big $$ expenses. Then, car got stuck in 4th gear - upon inspection it seems all the problems stemmed from gimball mechanism in floor where shifter pivots - all parts are plastic and they appeared to have been failing for quite a while until finally they totally disintegrated. So, I'd suggest replacing all the plastic junk ($50 from dealer for every plastic part in shifter mechanism). Cheap insurance. Also, if the linkage is failing and pushing on gears causing tranny whine - it might cause tranny damage from cheap plastic parts. Just my 3 cents. Tom Boldway '85 Westy "Panzerkampingwagen" --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:27:32 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: headlight advice Comments: To: David Beierl In-Reply-To: David Beierl 's message of Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:46:08 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Avoid the E-code econo, Pakistani head lamps from the BD. Total garbage. They don't fit the bucket's correctly, and they have an unbelievably bizarre light pattern. You would be very unhappy with them. Junk. The best price on Hella lamps that I have found are the Vision plus lamps available from Roesser Jeep at 888-348-2037. They cost me $34.50 each, plus shipping ---total was $75.50 for the pair. Nice lamps. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:35:21 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: ETKA software for Mac Comments: To: radish150 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Son of a gun! That's just what I was going to say. \\ > I know we mac people are a minority, you guy's should treat us well, because we really control the world. The PC users are just not part of the cognoscenti. We do have a part of our organization who's job it is to interface with the public. Mostly these operate under the guise of "public service clubs", but the true nature of these are > very different than they appear. Most members of these "clubs" never become aware of the true nature of the organization they think they have just joined. A very select few though, if they are of the "right mind" and come from the right families, can rise though the ranks to a position of some knowledge. The total picture is never known > to any but those at the top of the pyramid, and as you go down the ranks, the people only know the part of the picture that they can see from their position on down. Each position is manipulated by the levels above them, and they in turn manipulate the positions below them. This is how we run the world. All knowledge is > compartmentalized, need to know basis. The really interesting part is what occurs at the top of the pyramid. Look on your dollar bill, what does the eye represent? God? Nope, it's the all seeing eye of... MAC. All macs are actually much more than just personal computers. This is just a small part of the job they perform for their > operators. They are very powerful tools that are connected directly to the huge mainframes in Belgium and certain places on the East coast of the US. These are the computers that keep track of every move each of you make, there are no secrets anymore. In fact, this ETKA thing is just a test, the results are being recorded now, and some > of you are being marked for a very special mission that you will not remember when you are done. Some of us are dissenters from within, you will never know who we are. I must go, my life is in danger. > > mark... > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:26:35 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: always a second fuel filter? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I added the upstream filter, good precaution against dirt from tank. When i disconnected fuel line to add that filter lots of dirt came out. The filter used is from air-cooled Vanagon, white square plastic(ar.$4 at flacs) Leon Subwagen Westy James Creech wrote: > Then it would seem to be advisable to add the inlet filter even if the high > pressure side filter is already there and functioning well. Crud coming > into the pump couldn't be a good thing, even if the larger filter on the > other side takes it out before reaching the injectors. > > Anyone know if there is only one inlet side filter in a "one-size-fits-all," > or could you advise us Filterless Ones of what models are available if it > matters to have the right specific type? (please pardon my laziness in not > wanting to search the vendors for what they list). > > Thanks, > Jim ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:31:48 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Sheflo Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Sheflo Subject: Re: headlight advice Comments: To: jboldway@INTCON.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Spend the money. Real H4's are worth every penny. If you can do it (i.e. have the time, ability and a little extra money) do the relay upgrade and get some higher wattage bulbs too! Mark 82 Westy with H4's ----- Original Message ----- From: "James T." To: Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 11:37 AM Subject: headlight advice | Howdy! | I need some advice - anybody know the output of the H4 euro style round halogen | headlights offered at places like the Bus Depot versus the light output from | regular halogens like sylvania? I want the best lighting I can get but don't | want to spend money for something that's just different and not any better than | regular halogens. | | Thanks in advance! | | Tom Boldway | '85 Westy | "Panzerkampingwagen" | | --------------------------------------------- | This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. | http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:42:39 -0800 Reply-To: Jim Arnott Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Arnott Organization: WetWesties Subject: Re: shifting problems MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit FWIW, I've found that at the trans, the metal socket does all the wearing. I replaced both the socket and the ball, but when I mic'd the ball there was no appreciable wear. Might save you a twenty... Jim Arnott WetWesties Union, OR ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:27:35 -0600 Reply-To: "Smola, Tony" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Smola, Tony" Subject: squarebacks and vanagons MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Isn't is strange how many people who have Vanagons have had and loved their squareback. I've had 3 squarebacks, all 69's with D-jetronic. 2 with factory steel sunroofs. Those cars were so reliable and cheap to repair for do it yourself types. Malibu Tony 85' Westy ex owner of three 69' squarebacks....loved those little wagons......I too miss the T-3 (311) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:27:26 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karl Wolz wrote: > I'm not trying to start a war here, but . . . > > Is the Soob swap such a marginal solution that it requires a heater to be > on constantly? Not at all. There is no need to run coolant thru heaters. The simple parallel bypass does it perfectly Leon 85 Subwagen Westy > Or does yours have a problem? This is the first I have > heard of this. > > Karl Wolz > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "mike and shari" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 1:37 AM > Subject: Re: REAR HEATER VALVE - 'Not' Understood (Sorry Zoltan) > > > I am finishing up the Subaru conversion to my syncro this week and > > Zoltan's question got me thinking about wether or not my rear core was > > in the open or closed position. (The Subie engine Must have one of the > > two cores open or it will overheat). Soooo, as I was looking at the > > valve I dicovered that it is difficult to tell what part of the valve > > should be pointing forward for the 'On' position. The top of the valve > > handle of the bottom, there are no signifying marks on it. > > > > > > Mike G. > > > > Zoltan wrote: > > > > > I have received the info from David Beierl that forward is open, back > > > is closed. No more discussion is needed on this issue. Thanks > > > David.Zoltan > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Zoltan > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:20 PM > > > Subject: REAR HEATER VALVE > > > The Bentley does not say which way is open or closed.Could > > > any of you tell me right now. I am just busy emptying the > > > system and now I need to know. Thanks in advance.Zoltan > > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 02:37:26 -0600 Reply-To: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Subject: Re: shifting problems Comments: To: jboldway@INTCON.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You don't happen to hve part #'s because when I installed a berg shifter I noticed that the plastic parts were cracked and need to be replaced! Fred 1982 Vagagon Diesel Westy "Sammy" 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 "The Beast" ----- Original Message ----- From: "James T." To: Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:12 PM Subject: Re: shifting problems > Howdy - thought I'd pass on some info - my shifting in my '85 > panzerkampingwagen was getting harder and harder, finally I couldn't get 2nd > gear even after i adjusted the linkage. Then I could hear a whine coming from > the transmission - uh-oh - I was worried about big $$ expenses. Then, car got > stuck in 4th gear - upon inspection it seems all the problems stemmed from > gimball mechanism in floor where shifter pivots - all parts are plastic and > they appeared to have been failing for quite a while until finally they totally > disintegrated. So, I'd suggest replacing all the plastic junk ($50 from dealer > for every plastic part in shifter mechanism). Cheap insurance. Also, if the > linkage is failing and pushing on gears causing tranny whine - it might cause > tranny damage from cheap plastic parts. > Just my 3 cents. > Tom Boldway > '85 Westy > "Panzerkampingwagen" > > --------------------------------------------- > This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. > http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 03:22:50 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Re: Rear Opening Dimension Needed on Vanagon Comments: To: "Christopher T. Berchin" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0B736.5E7C5F20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0B736.5E7C5F20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I can still get a 12' canoe in and out of my 90 GL with the ducting in = place. I would think you'd be more concerned about height than width. Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Christopher T. Berchin=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 7:44 PM Subject: Rear Opening Dimension Needed on Vanagon Hi everyone. I'm still learning about the Vanagon and all its = iterations, and I just learned that later vans have a rear A/C system = that reduces the width of the rear opening. I managed to find a picture = of this (nice shot of it on www.vanagon.com in the 1990 dealer = brochure), and it sure does reduce the opening. Can someone out there = with a van like this measure the inside width of the rear opening? I = measured an earlier van without this when I first got the idea of = getting a Vanagon, and that was plenty wide. However, this A/C duct = could change things. Can anyone help? Thanks a ton! Chris ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0B736.5E7C5F20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I can still get a 12' canoe in and out = of my 90 GL=20 with the ducting in place.  I would think you'd be more concerned = about=20 height than width.
 
Dimwitted Moose and Flying = Squirrel
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Christopher T.=20 Berchin
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 = 7:44=20 PM
Subject: Rear Opening Dimension = Needed on=20 Vanagon

Hi everyone.  I'm still learning about the Vanagon and all = its=20 iterations, and I just learned that later vans have a rear A/C system = that=20 reduces the width of the rear opening.  I managed to find a = picture of=20 this (nice shot of it on www.vanagon.com=20 in the 1990 dealer brochure), and it sure does reduce the = opening.  Can=20 someone out there with a van like this measure the inside width of the = rear=20 opening?  I measured an earlier van without this when I first got = the=20 idea of getting a Vanagon, and that was plenty wide.  However, = this A/C=20 duct could change things.  Can anyone help?  Thanks a = ton!

Chris
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C0B736.5E7C5F20-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:26:35 -0500 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: Re: shifting problems Comments: To: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" > You don't happen to hve part #'s because when I installed a berg shifter I > noticed that the plastic parts were cracked and need to be replaced! Ken at Vanagain has all the parts...seems like about $25.\ > Fred > 1982 Vagagon Diesel Westy "Sammy" > 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 "The Beast" > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James T." > To: > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:12 PM > Subject: Re: shifting problems > > > > Howdy - thought I'd pass on some info - my shifting in my '85 > > panzerkampingwagen was getting harder and harder, finally I couldn't get > 2nd > > gear even after i adjusted the linkage. Then I could hear a whine coming > from > > the transmission - uh-oh - I was worried about big $$ expenses. Then, car > got > > stuck in 4th gear - upon inspection it seems all the problems stemmed from > > gimball mechanism in floor where shifter pivots - all parts are plastic > and > > they appeared to have been failing for quite a while until finally they > totally > > disintegrated. So, I'd suggest replacing all the plastic junk ($50 from > dealer > > for every plastic part in shifter mechanism). Cheap insurance. Also, if > the > > linkage is failing and pushing on gears causing tranny whine - it might > cause > > tranny damage from cheap plastic parts. > > Just my 3 cents. > > Tom Boldway > > '85 Westy > > "Panzerkampingwagen" > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. > > http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:34:59 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Running out of patience with my 90 GL. After removingthe old motor and installing a 1'2 Lilley from Bob, I get ready to start the engine and it doesn't want tot fire. I check the conections, I check for spark, I open up the fuel T and there's gas getting that far. One thing that appears to be different from before the engine R&R is that now, when I turn on the ignition switch, my accessory vdo op and oil temp gauges rise up to their mormal "0" location, but when the starter is engaged, both needles drop way back to the left of their normal resting spots, almost as if there's a short or the polarity of the gauge wires is getting reversed(they haven't been at least by my hands and they worked fine before the swap). After grinding on the starter for 20-25 seconds, when the key returns to the ignition on position, the oil pressure gauge begins reading a drop from a 30 pound reading or so What's going on here???. Some off list help from Darrell B. steered me to try a different ECU to see ifthat would get the van going, NOT SO! The van has actually coughed and tried to start a couple times, but instantly quits. Pulling the plugs reveals a very wet porcelain center. I pulled each injector bank outindividually and did the crank test, but the spray of the injectors was just that, more of a constant spray than a pulsing type effect like I was led to believe it should be. I guess they could be pulsing and it just seemed like a spray as I haven't any experience in watching injectors. I was really hoping to use the old FI system to break in the new motor for the first 1000 miles or so and then switch over to the new Haltech system, but now I'm forging ahead with the rewiring of the back end of the van and installing what will hopefully fix the problem. A long article is brewing on the ups and downs of the haltech installation, but hopefully it will all be worth it in the end. I really want to hear this motor run. As an aside, it's been interesting watching the cooling system slowly fill up as the back end is elevated at this time. Initially got about 2 gallons in the totally dry system,then opened up the air bleed on the top of the T stat housing and another gallon or so went in, and every day or so for thew last 10 or so days, the expansion tank level will drop, and I'll add more coolant. I've got almost all of the 4 gallons that was premixed, and should then only have another half gallon to go while doing that all-important first 30 min of engine running. Can anybody help me with my starting problem?? TIA Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:38:15 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: ETKA CD ON MAC Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Before I start - let me state for the record that all of this is based on >the assumption that the ETKA CD contains software, and not just doc files. > >That out of the way, when you create a CD that is readable by both a >IBM-PC and a MAC, the only thing that you are modifying is the way that >the data is stored on the CD. It does nothing for the compatibility of >the files that it stores. A Windows program will still require a machine >running Windows (or a Windows emulator), you'll just be able to SEE the >files on your Mac. The same thing works the other way too. A Mac program >burned onto a Dual format CD will be visible to someone running an IBM-PC, >but they would still need a MAC (or, again, an emulator) in order to run >the software. Yup. I can SEE the files on my Mac, but can't open them. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 *A 766mHz Mac G4 is 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:38:25 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: headlight advice Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I need some advice - anybody know the output of the H4 euro style round halogen >headlights offered at places like the Bus Depot versus the light output from >regular halogens like sylvania? I want the best lighting I can get but don't >want to spend money for something that's just different and not any better than >regular halogens. Outright claimed wattage is only an indication of actual usable output. A poorly-designed/made reflector, lens and bulb will give hot spots, black holes and generally dim beam. A good unit overall can give a broad long-reaching beam with no holes or hot spots. I have owned vehicles (including the stock H4s in my 84) with really EXCELLENT 60/55W QHs. And others with really poor 100/80s (aftermarket East German H4 bulbs in my 75 Bay's stock headlights) or 6V 60/55 H4 bulbs in my 57's stock lights. Those 100/80s ran far too hot and their bases actually burned out and disintegrated (the filaments still worked fine). Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 *A 766mHz Mac G4 is 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:38:33 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims available from Van-Again Now! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Not too long ago I did a big investigation on the offset question >with regard to my interest in 235/75-15 tires. A friend had Momo >15" wheels with this size BFG AT's. His offset was ET 38. Clearance >to both front and rear suspension was less than 1/2". Same with >sliding door clearance My CLK wheels (16x7) with 205/55R16s are ET37. I am told they should fit okay but don't have access now to my van to try them out. The tires seem okay for width on the rims. But one manufacturer's 205 might be another's 215. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 *A 766mHz Mac G4 is 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:38:58 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: ETKA software for Mac Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I know we mac people are a minority, you guy's should treat us well, >because we really control the world. The PC users are just not part of the >cognoscenti. A note I saw on the allmacs list recently. PC users take note: a new Mac G4 766mHz is a whole 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 in Photoshop etc. and no, it's NOT Friday. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, always remember that we are the TOP 10% *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 *A 766mHz Mac G4 is 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:30:29 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: headlight advice Comments: To: jboldway@intcon.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/27/01 8:45:40 PM, jboldway@INTCON.NET writes: << anybody know the output of the H4 euro style round halogen headlights offered at places like the Bus Depot versus the light output from regular halogens like sylvania? >> Tom, I do not know the lighting efficacy specs for either lamp, but, from my own experience, I do know there is a night and day difference between a European H4 and a USA sealed beam halogen. Others have reported shortcomings with the non-European lamps offered by the BD which make them all but useless. I Have used Cibie in the past and found them to be to my satisfaction. Over the last 20 years I have been using Hella products with no complaints so, when I buy lamps that is the brand I buy. The best deal I have found for Hella's is from Susquehanna Motorsports. They seem to stock everything that Hella makes, the shipping is fair and the packaging is without fault so you do not have to worry about your lamps turning up in more than one piece. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:31:32 EST Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Benjamin Tan Subject: reason why BenT has not been returning email Comments: To: Syncro@egroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My apologies for the WOB. Posting to the list is the quickest way I can make this notice to the various folks who sent pmails concerning assistance with parts, Vanagon Cafe ads and other Vanagon related matters while I am out of the country. I have not been able to respond this the past week due to a death in the family. Thanks for your understanding. BenT Vanagon Cafe ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:54:49 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: HORROR STORY Comments: To: TSmola@tribune.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/27/01 10:25:26 PM, TSmola@TRIBUNE.COM writes: << the guy who did the speed balance, lifted on the gas tank supports and crushed the gas tank. >> Malibu, Boy! Did you come out smelling like a rose on this one! How did you find a shop which was, in the end, so accommodating? If it had been me, I would have certainly spent a day in small claims court and the judge would have been the mechanics brother-in-law. I have learned that it is necessary to watch the mechanics like a hawk even for the casual things like having tire mounted. They have to be told to use only the jacking points or a disaster will surely follow. A lot of these guys take it as an insult when you try to tell them something they should know, but I have found a $10 bill in their hand usually soothes their egos. I once went to a junkyard and found a perfect, rust-free gas tank for $50. This dream deal turned sour when the yardmen, thinking the tank was in the rear, used a forklift to lift the van in the center and crushed that perfect tank. Like I said, you have to watch these guys. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:00:51 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: ETKA software for Mac-The Eternal Dilemma Comments: To: radish150@earthlink.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/27/01 11:14:19 PM, radish150@EARTHLINK.NET writes: << The PC users are just not part of the cognoscenti. >> Mark, Yeah, I too am a sucker who bought a Mac. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:04:50 +0100 Reply-To: Peter Cassidy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Peter Cassidy Subject: Kamei Vanagon lighting update Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, Here's the continuing stoooory of Vanagon aftermarket lighting. I generated a storm of interest from folks on the list as to how to get the things and what they're like. So, here are the details; - Lighting kit costs =A3150 (about US$215) + s/h. Shipping = overnight here to Ireland cost =A340 - ouch! - For that, you get a pair of Hella H4s + 60/55w bulbs, a pair of Hella H1 auxiliary lamps + 55w bulb. It's also fitted and = supplied with Euro-style parking lights & bulbs. Both lights are = actually the same size and are both rectangular Hella E-code lights. These appear to be excellent on inspection. - Note that these lights appear to be replacements for the older round H4s & thus require H4 connectors. I got a pair of H4 connectors from a scrapper & will blend them into the original circuit. - Provided with the two lights are two bezels and a centre grille piece with a VW badge on it. This is where I was really disappointed. The bezels have the lights directly attached to them via cheapo wingnut adjusters. The plastic is lightweight, bendy & looks cheaply made. There are no longer any light 'buckets', a la Volkswagen. Given the quality of the Hella lights and the fact that they're E-code (and that I've already paid for them!), I'll give it a try. The VW grill badge looks cheapo - I'm going to try to transfer over the VW one. The grill may also benefit from a body-matched spray job. We'll see ....... - Appearance-wise, I haven't yet fitted them to my '88 = rectangular- light Vanagon, but the appearance should be a lot like the = famous Projektzwo van. The dimensions are quite similar, tho' the = grill is a 3-piece one. - I've nothing to do with any of these companies. I'm just = passing on useful information. YMMV. Indeed, a helpful lurker on one of the UK T25 sites (www.club80-90.co.uk) passed on the tip to = me. - Whenever I get the conversion fitted (this weekend??), I'll = post pics of before, during and after & my opinions on the lighting improvements. I'll also be upgrading the harness/relays to take 80w bulbs. - Source of this kit? VolksMagic in the West Midlands, UK. +44-121-541-2278. They can also provide the standard H4 = replacement lights (=A3250 - ouch again!) More later! Pete C -- Peter Cassidy, pcassidy@apple.com Sr. Dev. Engineer +353-21-4284316 WW Operations Engineering Apple, Cork, Ireland. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:45:08 EST Reply-To: Jonyqest22@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Jonathan T. Clay" Subject: Paint Project MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_17.139879ff.27f344e4_boundary" --part1_17.139879ff.27f344e4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Listees; I have been ridin' the archives looking for some info. on painting my '90 westi. I have found a few good articles about both paint/prep/etc. What I am truely looking for are those of you who have painted your vans a different other than original. My westi is currently a beige/gold sort of "silver" (not sure exactly what paint code is) and would really like to paint it inside and out a green metalic. The van itself is in good condition except for a bit of seam rust on drivers side and a small ding on the sliding door from PO. I am not afraid of tearing the van apart (i.e: cabinetry, pop top, seating, side panels, etc.) My question isfor those who have done a complete paint job....what can I truely leave in there, do I have to tear out the decorative (?) coverings on areas like the pillar behind driver/passenger. The dash, what......... I plan on getting this started come warmer weather and am just now in the planning stages ...just preping myself. The van is going to be getting a complete overhaul.....in the next year so it will last me a life time. TIA jon 90' westi '88 gl --part1_17.139879ff.27f344e4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Listees;
I have been ridin' the archives looking for some info. on painting my '90
westi.  I have found a few good articles about both paint/prep/etc.  What I
am truely looking for are those of you who have painted your vans a different
other than original.  My westi is currently a beige/gold sort of "silver"
(not sure exactly what paint code is) and would really like to paint it
inside and out a green metalic.  The van itself is in good condition except
for a bit of seam rust on drivers side and a small ding on the sliding door
from PO.  I am not afraid of tearing the van apart (i.e: cabinetry, pop top,
seating, side panels, etc.)  
My question isfor those who have done a complete paint job....what can I
truely leave in there,  do I have to tear out the decorative (?) coverings on
areas like the pillar behind driver/passenger.  The dash, what.........
I plan on getting this started come warmer weather and am just now in the
planning stages ...just preping myself.  
The van is going to be getting a complete overhaul.....in the next year so it
will last me a life time.

TIA
jon
90' westi      '88 gl
--part1_17.139879ff.27f344e4_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:46:47 EST Reply-To: Andrew Payton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Payton Subject: Re: ETKA software for Mac Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Well here's the deal with the MACs are faster: The speed judging people use benchmarks to determine how fast a computer = is. = Yeah, the MACs are faster with this method (crunching numbers & such) but= it's also known that if you benchmark a MAC & PC, the PCs gonna win. It all depends on what software you are using on which is better really. It jus= t so happens that MACs aren't as "user-friendly" as PCs, & isn't that what we = as a society are all about these days - gotta be convenient. It's a classic debate we really shouldn't get into on a Vanagon list, tha= t's just my two cents though. Andrew Payton 82 Vanagon Andrew Grebneff wrote: > >I know we mac people are a minority, you guy's should treat us well, > >because we really control the world. The PC users are just not part of= the > >cognoscenti. > = > A note I saw on the allmacs list recently. PC users take note: a new Ma= c G4 > 766mHz is a whole 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 in Photoshop etc.= and > no, it's NOT Friday. > = > = > Andrew Grebneff > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > > VW van (something for every man), Toyota diesel & seashell nut > Macintosh 7500/200/64, 6116/60/24, LCIII, LC, Classic, Plus > *Even though Mac Users may be only 10% of the market, > always remember that we are the TOP 10% > *Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq, Tandy and > millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million > machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans, on the other hand, may note = that > cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do= not > denote a higher life form - New York Times, November 26, 1991 > *A 766mHz Mac G4 is 45% faster than a 1500mHz Pentium 4 ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:57:16 -0500 Reply-To: Karl Ploessl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Ploessl Subject: Re : Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? Comments: To: phil stanhope Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" check out the following link: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=VV91 Maybe it's a little small but one could scale it up. Karl. Karl '81 Westy "Jenny" Wilmington, DE ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:09:55 -0500 Reply-To: James Creech Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: James Creech Subject: Re: headlight advice MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know this has been discussed on the List in the past (and periodically), but as a relatively new owner I've never fully understood the lingo. Could someone please state in clear language what are the best options for those of us with the double square headlights, in upgrading to E-code? Is the only way to do that to change grills and go to the single rounds? I would like better lighting but can't spend $300-400. Thanks, Jim 87 GL, 2.1 > The E-code headlights are miles ahead of SAE headlights. They have good > illumination on high beams, but the really outstanding part is the light > pattern of the low beams. US-spec lights are literally thirty years behind > here. Get the E-code lights, and my suggestion would be to get > recognizable ones (Hella/Bosch/Cibie) and expect to pay around $50 apiece > including standard 55/60W bulbs. > > If you want to use more powerful bulbs (note: I'm *not* recommending this > unless you have special needs) you will need to upgrade your switching and > wiring first. In fact you will get a noticeable increase in output simply > by beefing up the wiring for the standard bulbs, at the expense of some > bulb life, of course. > > david > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:19:32 -0700 Reply-To: Randy Herd Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Herd Subject: Re: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Mine turned out to be to hall sender in the dist. Took the ecu with it. Difficult to remove from dist but was shorted out on the bottom of the plastic wiring connector elbow. Would crank, catch (sometimes) & die. Sometimes would run until you tried to increase the engine speed. Easy to check with a multimeter. The old one had all of the bottom plastic missing and been glued on the sides (Also only had one screw holding the unit in.) Randy Herd 86 GL Weekender 68 Kombi 98 Jeep Cherokee _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:32:01 EST Reply-To: MVAone@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Watts Subject: Re: White vanagon parts (to those that emailed me) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the interest. Saw the van: 91(0?) Carat Wolfsburg,150k miles, good condition. Rust on only a couple of the seams. Sliding door done but damage not bad. Only one window broken on the door. Electric windows, two rear facing jumpseats and table, Seat/bed in back. Interior good. Still runs/drives. The damage is relatively minor. The body shop owner expressed an interest in buying the whole vehicle to repair and drive. If he meets my terms then that is what I will do. I get my van repainted plus the alloys and fibreglass trim. Anyone else is welcome to make an offer. I really would hate to part this van out as the damage is just not that bad. I was surprised the insurance company totaled it. tia, Mark 87 Westie 99 Passat 93 Cabrio ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:36:44 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: headlight advice Comments: To: James Creech In-Reply-To: <005801c0b790$c4d76d00$3a649bd0@jimc> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed In no order of preference: 1) Buy E-code Vanagon light set from David Marshall and such. Or find a friend in Germany... 2) Buy South African 4-light round grille from James Cohen and such, and use round H-4 lights obtained locally. 3) Modify existing setup to take standard rectangular H-4 lights obtained locally. You need buckets from a junkyard, I think, and the lights of course don't follow the subtle profile that makes the dealer ones dealer. But the difference is small and some folks find it quite acceptable. I'm sure this is the cheapest route, and the most work. 4) ??? david At 09:09 AM 3/28/2001, James Creech wrote: >but as a relatively new owner I've never fully understood the lingo. Could >someone please state in clear language what are the best options for those >of us with the double square headlights, in upgrading to E-code? Is the >only way to do that to change grills and go to the single rounds? I would >like better lighting but can't spend $300-400. David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:25:17 -0700 Reply-To: Keith Adams Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Keith Adams Organization: TransCanada Subject: Re: Paint Project Comments: To: Jonyqest22@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, I'm looking at the same process with my Syncro. Puliing all the windows out, dropping the engine, pulling out all the interior and doing a colour change (from current silver to Windsor Blue). But, I haven't started yet. So I too am interested in hearing people's experiences. Cheers, Keith Adams Calgary, AB, CA 86 Westy "Roxy" / 87 Syncro project "Hugh" "Jonathan T. Clay" wrote: > Listees; > I have been ridin' the archives looking for some info. on > painting my '90 > westi. I have found a few good articles about both > paint/prep/etc. What I > am truely looking for are those of you who have painted > your vans a different > other than original. My westi is currently a beige/gold > sort of "silver" > (not sure exactly what paint code is) and would really > like to paint it > inside and out a green metalic. The van itself is in good > condition except > for a bit of seam rust on drivers side and a small ding on > the sliding door > from PO. I am not afraid of tearing the van apart (i.e: > cabinetry, pop top, > seating, side panels, etc.) > My question isfor those who have done a complete paint > job....what can I > truely leave in there, do I have to tear out the > decorative (?) coverings on > areas like the pillar behind driver/passenger. The dash, > what......... > I plan on getting this started come warmer weather and am > just now in the > planning stages ...just preping myself. > The van is going to be getting a complete overhaul.....in > the next year so it > will last me a life time. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:54:53 -0800 Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stuart MacMillan Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My work was done by a top rated local Collision One center that specializes in BMW and Mercedes. You just haven't hit anything yet! My point is valid, these adhesives provide no structural strength whatsoever, they should only be used in non-structural applications. CTONLINE@webtv.net wrote: > > Stuart, > If the glued panels failed it was probably due to one of two different > things. > (1) improperly prepared mating surfaces > (2) wrong, or cheap adhesive. > Ford Iknow for a fact has been using a Body panel adhesive on their > doors and quarter panels for at least 10 years. > I have used 3-M body panel adhesive on the front cowel panels of Mack > trucks for at least that long, with no failures, ever. > It all depends on who's doing the work, and how and what's applied. -- Stuart MacMillan Seattle '84 Vanagon Westfalia w/2.1 '65 MGB (Daily driver since 1969) '74 MGB GT (Restoring sloooowly) Assisting on Restoration (and spending OPM): '72 MGB GT (Daughter's) '64 MGB (Son's) Stripped and gone but their parts live on: '68 MGB, '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:07:26 -0800 Reply-To: phil stanhope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: phil stanhope Subject: RH Window and Seal instalation $80 in Labor?!#X!Help!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dear All Mighty Listmembers, I need R hatch window AND R side windows installed. Quotes are $150 for both in labor. Ive already spent that much in seal parts. Question: with the help of a friend, how should we do the installation ourselves? Phil 84' all white Westfalia "Millenium Falcon" 84' all brown Rustfalia/Wolfy GL "Sh*thawk" 8100 AV PPC 100Mhz B+W G3 450 MHz 256mg ram __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:34:38 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Paint Project-Think Hard on This One Comments: To: keith_adams@transcanada.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/28/01 10:30:33 AM, keith_adams@TRANSCANADA.COM writes: << I'm looking at the same process with my Syncro. Puliing all the windows out, dropping the engine, pulling out all the interior and doing a colour change (from current silver to Windsor Blue). But, I haven't started yet. So I too am interested in hearing people's experiences. >> Keith, Something like this looks deceptively easy . . . until you are up to your ass in paint dust. I did this once with a Volvo 260, V6 auto I was converting to a 240, I4 stick. The engine/X-mission were already out for the swap so I thought, why not. The car was totally stripped of all glass and anything which could be unbolted. I even removed the doors, hood and trunk lid so that I could paint beneath the hinges. I learned well why a properly done color change costs thousands of dollars and bodymen are reluctant to do them: time = money! Probably the biggest pain-in-the-ass is prepping all the nooks and crannies of the door surrounds. I will never do it again myself unless it is on a Lotus Super 7 or a motorcycle. If you decide to ignore my negative Karma, for all that you hold sacred, make sure you wet sand with the palm of your hand and not your fingertips. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:46:10 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Re : Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? Comments: To: Karl Ploessl MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I scanned the Bentley cover, both gray scale and lineart. So if anyone wants it, give me a shout. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Karl Ploessl To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 5:57 AM Subject: Re : Re: Vanagon Line Drawing? > check out the following link: > http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=VV91 > Maybe it's a little small but one could scale it up. > > Karl. > > > Karl > '81 Westy "Jenny" > Wilmington, DE > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:46:25 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: RH Window and Seal instalation $80 in Labor?!#X!Help!!! Comments: To: napszeerf@yahoo.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/28/01 11:08:10 AM, napszeerf@YAHOO.COM writes: << Question: with the help of a friend, how should we do the installation ourselves? >> Phil, Get some more quotes. I just had a new windshield installed for $115 parts and labor. If I had gone with the first quote I got, I would have spent over $350. I watched them install the windshield in about 15 minutes which included some friendly banter with the spectator gallery. It certainly looked easy enough and I could have done it myself, at least until it came to the part where the glass guy smacked the new windshield hard with the palm of his hand in several key spots. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:35:58 -0500 Reply-To: Eurotech Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Eurotech Subject: Trans. FS. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a Tranny for sale. 4 speed out of an 83 rebuilt no miles on it. like new. can work in any vanagon xcept syncro DUH. bolt in to any 85 and older kit required for newer up to 91. please mail back for any ??'s. 350. you ship. Thanks ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:50:15 -0700 Reply-To: Keith Adams Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Keith Adams Organization: TransCanada Subject: Re: Paint Project-Think Hard on This One Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I did this once with a Volvo 260, V6 auto I was converting to a 240, I4 > stick. The engine/X-mission were already out for the swap so I thought, why > not. The car was totally stripped of all glass and anything which could be > unbolted. I even removed the doors, hood and trunk lid so that I could paint > beneath the hinges. I learned well why a properly done color change costs > thousands of dollars and bodymen are reluctant to do them: time = money! > Probably the biggest pain-in-the-ass is prepping all the nooks and crannies > of the door surrounds. I will never do it again myself unless it is on a > Lotus Super 7 or a motorcycle. Did the same to a Volvo 242 GT. From blah sliver to Ford Ultraviolet purple. I don't intend for this to a be a quick process. It will take a long time. But that's OK. It's not "difficult" work, just time consuming. If you have a tight time frame, not a good idea. You hit the nail on the head. It costs a lot to get it done professionally. We figured we had >250 hours into the prep work alone for my Volvo. That doesn't come cheap. If you aren't prepared to put the labour into it, be prepared to pay for it. If you aren't prepared to put a LOT of money into it, and don't have the time and skill to put into it, best sell it and buy something that doesn't need as much work ;-) (or just drive it til it falls apart - but don't do that with a Vanagon, please! Leave that option to Toyota Corrodeds). Keith ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:45:31 -0700 Reply-To: Blake Thornton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Blake Thornton Subject: Wasatch Westies MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I would like to get something moving for a Utah meeting. Others have expressed interest, so lets get something planned. How about meeting next Saturday morning (April 7) somewhere in town (Salt Lake) and try to find a time and place to all go camping? I propose meeting at Salt Lake Roasting Company (320 East 400 South) around 9AM. Any interest? If you can't make it and are still interesting in an outing, we can keep you informed. I'll be out of town this weekend so I won't be able to do much organizing this weekend, but I'm sure we can get it all straightened by the beginning of next week. Blake Salt Lake City 84 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:53:50 -0500 Reply-To: cooper@BQMLAW.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Cooper, Jonathan R." Subject: Things I have learned on taking out the cabinets MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Well, this was my (our) year to go back to the paint shop to have the seams sandblasted and the bottom half repainted. I saw some rust on the seam below the outlets and worried that the condensation had gotten to it. I took out the 'fridge and sure enough, the floor was rusted and both sides of the seam were bad. So we decided (I and Mike at Euclid Foreign Motors here in Cleveland) to take out the seam and weld in new metal. It looks beautiful. NOW THEN. I took the cabinets out, which was a pain, but not too bad. Putting them back in taught me a couple of things. First, it is probably easier to put the rear cabinet in first. I did it the reverse and it was alot harder. Second, remove anything that these items might hang up on. The fit is really tight, so the little grille at the rear of the Fridge/stove cabinet needs to come out, I chipped some Formica (I know its not but...) on this. The coat closet door is also worth removing, together with its hinges. Third, watch out for the plastic parts, the water inlet, the faucet, etc... they are all brittle, and if you tug, they will break. So I am almost done, but this has been an experience. Jonathan R. Cooper Brzytwa, Quick & McCrystal 900 Skylight Office Tower Cleveland, OH 44113 Cooper@BQMlaw.com 85 Westy 90 Cabriolet ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:03:28 -0700 Reply-To: Drew Bedford Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Drew Bedford Organization: Bomb-Proof Productions Subject: Re: Wasatch Westies Comments: To: Blake Thornton MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sadly, I'll be out of town next weekend. As far as future camping trips, please keep me in the loop. Drew 83.5 Westy Park City Blake Thornton wrote: > > I would like to get something moving for a Utah meeting. Others have > expressed interest, so lets get something planned. > > How about meeting next Saturday morning (April 7) somewhere in town (Salt > Lake) and try to find a time and place to all go camping? I propose > meeting at Salt Lake Roasting Company (320 East 400 South) around 9AM. > Any interest? If you can't make it and are still interesting in an > outing, we can keep you informed. > > I'll be out of town this weekend so I won't be able to do much organizing > this weekend, but I'm sure we can get it all straightened by the beginning > of next week. > > Blake > Salt Lake City > 84 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:39:13 EST Reply-To: 06735660@EXCITE.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: 06735660@EXCITE.COM Subject: Your pc is a goldmine!! Comments: To: justin211@excite.com FINALLY, THE TRUTH IS REVEALED ABOUT HAVING A SUCCESSFUL ONLINE BUSINESS. . . . Our research has found that many people have tried one or more of the following... Free Classifieds? (Don't work) Web Site? (Takes thousands of visitors) Banners? (Expensive and iffy) E-Zine? (They better have a huge list) Search Engines? 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This is a order line only!!!! FAX LINE!! We also accept all major credit cards and checks by fax 9am to 9pm central, call for details. If we have reached you in error, and you would like to be removed move7430@yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:32:07 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: stuart@cobaltgroup.com In-Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan 's message of Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:54:53 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Stuart, I am not sure what you consider structural, but with the technology available today in adhesives, I disagree with you on this one. I have used the body panel repair adhesive in many applications, and I have not had one comeback, from one customer, ever. Period. If the body panel adhesive was a poor idea, and it was prone to failure on a regular basis, I would suspect that 3-M, and other manufacturers of this type of adhesive would be having one hell of a rash of libel suit's piling up on their desk's, if the stuff didn't work. Like I stated before, wrong application, wrong preparation, is more than likely the culprit here, I don't care what the shop's credentials are, human error could be part of the failure factor. And above all else remember this---- The Titanic wasn't suppose to sink either. But a slight error in design took care of it. People screw up !! Shit happen's !! And I would venture to say that this is the sole reason this product failed in your case. Have a beautiful Day !! ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:45:12 MST Reply-To: Joe Fortino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Fortino Subject: reserve coolent tank Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all, last night after doing some tuneup work I looked inside my reserve coolent tank and the sides seems gel-ish coated, anyone have some feedback or is this no big deal, my van has been flushed already. Thanks Joe VW addict ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:54:37 -0400 Reply-To: Jean-Guy Savoie Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jean-Guy Savoie Subject: Re: Paint Project-Think Hard on This One MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ----- Original Message ----- From: Rico Sapolich To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 12:34 PM Subject: Re: Paint Project-Think Hard on This One Rich, What do you mean by this part of your post? > make sure you wet sand with the palm of your hand and not your fingertips. > fingertips = uneven surface prep? Dazed and confused, JGS '84 Westy, Bleu schtroumpf ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:37:37 -0700 Reply-To: Tony Demille Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tony Demille Subject: Re: Wasatch Westies Comments: To: Blake Thornton MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C0B7AD.C78066C0" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B7AD.C78066C0 Content-Type: text/plain that would be cool, but 9am is a bit early given that i live in provo. afternoons would work much better. t candesa tony demille pixel slave liberator (v) 801.426.5450 www.candesa.com > ---------- > From: Blake Thornton > Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 9:45 AM > To: Vanagon List > Subject: Wasatch Westies > > I would like to get something moving for a Utah meeting. Others have > expressed interest, so lets get something planned. > > How about meeting next Saturday morning (April 7) somewhere in town (Salt > Lake) and try to find a time and place to all go camping? I propose > meeting at Salt Lake Roasting Company (320 East 400 South) around 9AM. > Any interest? If you can't make it and are still interesting in an > outing, we can keep you informed. > > I'll be out of town this weekend so I won't be able to do much organizing > this weekend, but I'm sure we can get it all straightened by the beginning > of next week. > > Blake > Salt Lake City > 84 Westy > > ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B7AD.C78066C0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: Wasatch Westies

that would be cool, but 9am is a bit = early
given that i live in provo.
afternoons would work much better.

t

candesa
tony demille
pixel slave = liberator
(v) 801.426.5450
www.candesa.com



    ----------
    From:   Blake Thornton
    Sent:   Wednesday, March 28, 2001 9:45 AM
    To:     = Vanagon List
    Subject: =        Wasatch Westies

    I would like to get something moving = for a Utah meeting.  Others have
    expressed interest, so lets get = something planned.

    How about meeting next Saturday = morning (April 7) somewhere in town (Salt
    Lake) and try to find a time and = place to all go camping?  I propose
    meeting at Salt Lake Roasting = Company (320 East 400 South) around 9AM. 
    Any interest?  If you can't = make it and are still interesting in an
    outing, we can keep you = informed.

    I'll be out of town this weekend so I = won't be able to do much organizing
    this weekend, but I'm sure we can = get it all straightened by the beginning
    of next week.

    Blake
    Salt Lake City
    84 Westy


------_=_NextPart_001_01C0B7AD.C78066C0-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:14:07 EST Reply-To: Merrag@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Raul Cisneros Subject: Re: Ronal 16" Rims---Offset MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/27/01 5:14:54 PM, Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM writes: << The "correct" ET will change with rim width. You can only add wheel width to the outside, so the ET will be less as the wheel gets wider. ET is the off-set from wheel center-line? I would agree 7 or 7.5" wheels are probably too wide for the Vanagon. Jay >> This is my understanding of offset as well, except that I think a 7 inch wide wheel will work fine. I figure if you use the VW approved rim from South Africa in a 6.5 inch width with an offset (in millimeters) of +30, the inside rim edge should be about 112.5mm (4.42 inches) inboard of the face of the rim where it contacts the wheel hub. (6.5 inches =165.10mm divided by 2 = 82.55mm gives centerline of wheel, PLUS offset of 30mm = 112.55) So assuming 112mm from the contact face to the inside edge of the rim is where you should be, then for a: 5.5 inch wide rim you should have an ET of +43 (what does it actually read on the stock 14 x 5.5 steel rims or who has a 16 x 5.5 steel Syncro rim to see?) 6 inch wide should be ET +36 (what does it say on the 14 x 6 carat alloys?) 6.5 inch wide should be ET +30 (this is what it is for VW SA Sunburst 6.5 x15 alloys) 7 inch wide should be ET +24 7.5 inch wide should be ET +17 8 inch wide should be ET +11 Any one else see it this way or does math differently?? Raul Nyack, NY 87 Syncro Westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:18:43 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Paint Project-Think Hard on This One Comments: To: jgsavoie@nbnet.nb.ca MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/28/01 12:55:52 PM, jgsavoie@NBNET.NB.CA writes: << What do you mean by this part of your post? > make sure you wet sand with the palm of your hand and not your fingertips. > fingertips = uneven surface prep? Dazed and confused, >> JGS, fingertips = uneven surface prep + no fingertip skin Try it, it works. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:16:14 -0700 Reply-To: Patrick Bryson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Patrick Bryson Subject: FS Vanagon Mirrors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01D8_01C0B778.807E6720" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01D8_01C0B778.807E6720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: Wasatch WestiesI have a pair of regular Vanagon mirrors (non-power). = Both have 3" spots on them and are in decent shape. $30.00 plus = shipping. Patrick Phoeinx, AZ ------=_NextPart_000_01D8_01C0B778.807E6720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: Wasatch Westies
I have a pair of regular Vanagon = mirrors=20 (non-power).  Both have 3" spots on them and are in decent = shape. =20 $30.00 plus shipping.
 
Patrick
Phoeinx, AZ
------=_NextPart_000_01D8_01C0B778.807E6720-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:27:09 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Re: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Timing checked out OK? Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max/Joyce Wellhouse" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:34 AM Subject: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) > Running out of patience with my 90 GL. After removingthe old motor and > installing a 1'2 Lilley from Bob, I get ready to start the engine and it > doesn't want tot fire. > > I check the conections, I check for spark, I open up the fuel T and there's > gas getting that far. > > One thing that appears to be different from before the engine R&R is that > now, when I turn on the ignition switch, my accessory vdo op and oil temp > gauges rise up to their mormal "0" location, but when the starter is > engaged, both needles drop way back to the left of their normal resting > spots, almost as if there's a short or the polarity of the gauge wires is > getting reversed(they haven't been at least by my hands and they worked > fine before the swap). > > After grinding on the starter for 20-25 seconds, when the key returns to the > ignition on position, the oil pressure gauge begins reading a drop from a > 30 pound reading or so What's going on here???. > > Some off list help from Darrell B. steered me to try a different ECU to see > ifthat would get the van going, NOT SO! The van has actually coughed and > tried to start a couple times, but instantly quits. Pulling the plugs > reveals a very wet porcelain center. I pulled each injector bank > outindividually and did the crank test, but the spray of the injectors was > just that, more of a constant spray than a pulsing type effect like I was > led to believe it should be. I guess they could be pulsing and it just > seemed like a spray as I haven't any experience in watching injectors. > > I was really hoping to use the old FI system to break in the new motor for > the first 1000 miles or so and then switch over to the new Haltech system, > but now I'm forging ahead with the rewiring of the back end of the van and > installing what will hopefully fix the problem. A long article is brewing > on the ups and downs of the haltech installation, but hopefully it will all > be worth it in the end. I really want to hear this motor run. > > As an aside, it's been interesting watching the cooling system slowly fill > up as the back end is elevated at this time. Initially got about 2 gallons > in the totally dry system,then opened up the air bleed on the top of the T > stat housing and another gallon or so went in, and every day or so for thew > last 10 or so days, the expansion tank level will drop, and I'll add more > coolant. I've got almost all of the 4 gallons that was premixed, and should > then only have another half gallon to go while doing that all-important > first 30 min of engine running. > > Can anybody help me with my starting problem?? TIA > > Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:46:22 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) In-Reply-To: <026301c0b7b4$b35b3830$5d086d18@ivideon.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 01:27 PM 3/28/2001, Marshall Ruskin wrote: >Timing checked out OK? And dat old debbil, are the wires pointing to the right cylinders? I'm a bit concerned about your description of the injectors, though. I'm pretty sure you should be able to see them pulsing when you crank, once per revolution. And of course they have to hold pressure in between times. If they squirt when the ignition is on and fuel pump running, but not cranking, there's surely a problem from the ECU driver output, or else mechanical fouling of some sort. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:20:11 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: FREE Saab 900 turbo in SF Comments: cc: vwpassat@egroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_35.12be4e93.27f3936b_boundary" --part1_35.12be4e93.27f3936b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit someone wanted me to post this again, sorry about the WOB. it AINT MINE so contact the email address BELOW... dfaeriebug@yahoo.com Car is parked down off 3rd st in SF...black...135k...5spd turbo...leather/sunroof(when it works)...no body damage/little rust...at this point it may need some transmission work-it froze up and will definately need to be towed...I want $100 bucks to cover my parking tickets...do you know anything about Saabs? You should if you take this car. Still interested? Respond, ASAP before the city impounds it due to parking violations. -D --part1_35.12be4e93.27f3936b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
someone wanted me to post this again, sorry about the WOB. it AINT MINE so
contact the email address BELOW...

dfaeriebug@yahoo.com
Car is parked down off 3rd st in
SF...black...135k...5spd turbo...leather/sunroof(when
it works)...no body damage/little rust...at this point
it may need some transmission work-it froze up and
will definately need to be towed...I want $100 bucks to cover my parking
tickets...do you know anything about Saabs? You
should if you take this car. Still interested?
Respond, ASAP before the city impounds it due to parking violations. -D
--part1_35.12be4e93.27f3936b_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:23:14 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: FREE vanagon! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_70.90c2091.27f39422_boundary" --part1_70.90c2091.27f39422_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a vanagon i need to get rid of, if you come and get it, its free. must pick up in allentown, pa chris --part1_70.90c2091.27f39422_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a vanagon i need to get rid of, if you come and get it, its free.

must pick up in allentown, pa
chris --part1_70.90c2091.27f39422_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:47:48 -0800 Reply-To: steve@SYNCRO.ORG Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steven Schwenk Subject: Hollister Hills Spring Syncro Event Comments: To: "syncro@egroups.com" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are currently two slots available for the May 18-20 second annual Hollister Hills syncro event. Gene Poole and his 67 westy had to bow out. Although the event is primarily a syncro event, we had hoped to have (and almost have) a splitty, a bay window and an air cooled 2wd vanagon in attendance as well. There are 23 vans currently signed up, with about 60 people, including about 20 kids of all ages. For more info, see: http://www.concentric.net/~Sxs/hollister2001.shtml If you are interested in attending, send in a registration form via e-mail. Copy it from the above webpage. Steve ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:24:26 -0600 Reply-To: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Subject: Re: Radio Comments: To: Scott Grillo MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I recieved the radio, but have not had time to put it in. I spent the weekend helping to put a subaru engine in a list members Vanagon. It was a lot of fun! I will let you know I get time to put the radio in! Thanks Again, Fred 1982 Vanagon Westy Diesel "Sammy" 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 " The Beast" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Grillo" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 1:43 PM Subject: Radio > Fred, > > Did you receive ok? Any problems? Let me know.. > Scott > > P.S. thanks for the quick payment ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:25:09 -0600 Reply-To: Wade Ebert Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Wade Ebert Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I run a collision repair shop in Illinois. While some of my colleagues sing the praises of these products, I still weld everything that was welded from the factory with exactly the same # of welds in exactly the same places. The vehicle is an energy absorbtion device that happens to haul human cargo at 80 mph. with opposing traffic hauling ass 6 inches off of the side mirror. When the auto manufacturers use adhesives in structural applications so will I. It is not my job nor my place to reengineer something that some massive corporation spent huge R&D money on and then crash tested. I will not play dice with others' lives for the sake of a few bucks in saved labor or the interests of some insurance jackass who bears none of the liability for what I do. Glue these panels at your own risk. Don't think for a minute that 3M or any other adhesive manufacturer would provide your legal defense. You don't blame the wreck on the train, but if that train just happened to be cobbled back together in a manner that the manufacturer never intended, Attorneys hire guys like me to do analyses of the failed repair methods so they may pin the liability exactly where it belongs. Better pay up those umbrella policies kids, it's fixin' to storm. Wade Ebert American Auto Body Springfield IL 87 Westy ----- Original Message ----- From: Stuart MacMillan To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 9:54 AM Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels > My work was done by a top rated local Collision One center that > specializes in BMW and Mercedes. > > You just haven't hit anything yet! My point is valid, these adhesives > provide no structural strength whatsoever, they should only be used in > non-structural applications. > > > CTONLINE@webtv.net wrote: > > > > Stuart, > > If the glued panels failed it was probably due to one of two different > > things. > > (1) improperly prepared mating surfaces > > (2) wrong, or cheap adhesive. > > Ford Iknow for a fact has been using a Body panel adhesive on their > > doors and quarter panels for at least 10 years. > > I have used 3-M body panel adhesive on the front cowel panels of Mack > > trucks for at least that long, with no failures, ever. > > It all depends on who's doing the work, and how and what's applied. > > -- > Stuart MacMillan > Seattle > > '84 Vanagon Westfalia w/2.1 > '65 MGB (Daily driver since 1969) > '74 MGB GT (Restoring sloooowly) > > Assisting on Restoration (and spending OPM): > '72 MGB GT (Daughter's) > '64 MGB (Son's) > > Stripped and gone but their parts live on: > '68 MGB, '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:37:45 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: FS - 88 WLE $1500 wash, dc MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit on http://www.ep.com .. now you know as much as i do. :) call them not me! ;) 1988 Volkswagen Vanagon , 116900 Miles, 1,500.00 Firm Blue Book Value , Research Specs Type Cargo fullsize Options Exterior Color - Burgundy/Maroon Interior Color - Gray - Light 4-cyl. CD Player Power Windows Manual Transmission Description BLOWN ENGINE!!! Unfortunately for me the engine has kicked the bucket and now I'm looking to re-coup whatever I can. Wolfsburg Weekender edition with new brakes, and a new CD player. Ask for Dave. Picture will be uploaded soon. This is a great investment for a serious mechanic. PS: BAD KARMA TO 'SKY.' HE IS A DISHONEST SOB!!! Seller Info Member Name: dm1205 View seller's other ads For sale by Private Party (202) 218-7249 Washington, DC, District of Columbia-Washington 20002 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:47:45 -0500 Reply-To: Dan_Cook@IDX.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Cook Subject: Vanagon Westfalia Syncro GL for sale Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=574313000&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=986605055&indexURL=0&rd=1 Dog and gas tanks not included! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:46:37 -0800 Reply-To: sharks Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: sharks Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Wade Ebert In-Reply-To: <004f01c0b7c5$2fc2a6a0$b622a9d0@user> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII wait a second, who owns a vanagon that goes 80mph? On Wed, 28 Mar 2001, Wade Ebert wrote: > the factory with exactly the same # of welds in exactly the same places. The > vehicle is an energy absorbtion device that happens to haul human cargo at > 80 mph. with opposing traffic hauling ass 6 inches off of the side mirror. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:03:14 -0600 Reply-To: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Frederick M. Wasserstein" Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report Comments: To: subaruvanagon@yahoogroups.com, ricbrown@epri.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Where are you located, we plan a trip to the Grand Canyon this fall with my diesel westy, I am quite concerned about taking it over the mountain passes. What route do you think might work? Has any of the list members with 1.6 diesels ever try to go over high mountain passes? I am glad your conversion is running well, I got my first chance to see a converted van this weekend and the difference in noise(Lack there of) and power( more than I thought possible for a Vanagon) was quite amazing. If I could find a fixer up Vanagon somewhere here in Nebraska I would really consider the 2.2 Subaru engine! Fred 1982 Vanagon Westy Diesel "Sammy" 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 " The Beast" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brown, Rich" > To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 2:04 PM Subject: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report > Following a week of business travel and other interruptions I have devoted a > bit of time to trying to sort out my hard starting problem. After replacing > a section of the old alternator wire from the VW which splices into the > white Subie alternator wire, it showed significant improvement in voltages. > I have since replaced the engine ground strap as well as the transmission > ground strap for further improvements in voltages during starting. Now > voltage at the by pass valve, alternator, and coil pack rarely get below > 10.5 volts during starting events and starting is more consistent but still > not as I would like it. I still need to do more systematic checking of > voltages at different points. However, from one starting event to the next > it does not seem to be entirely consistent. That is, there is a lot of > scatter in the data. I think I want to replace more of the VW alternator > wire which seemed to be the worst offender. I still want to check the > battery ground strap although it looks perfectly good. > > Other incidentals: I remounted the ECU high up in the cavity behind the > tail light and also sealed off the air intake on the back side of the > louvers that feeds air (and rain water) to that space. During a recent rain > storm, that cavity now stayed very dry. Just hope the temperature in that > area does not get too warm in the summer time. Knowing what I do now I > would mount the ECU under the back seat if I were to do it again. I am also > thinking of putting a shield between the computer and the engine similar to > the old air intake shield that was in that location. > > Reinstalled the VW splash shield on the drivers side with little difficulty. > Because of the way I did the plumbing, I could not make the splash shield on > the passenger side work. So I fashioned my own out of some galvanized sheet > metal I had on hand. Looks pretty good, doesn't rattle and should also help > keep water away from the wiring harness and ECU. > > Wired up the air conditioner compressor clutch to the VW wire and it > engages. Now have to have some special hoses made up. > > Hope to be ready and confident enough to take a 2000 miles journey in April > to the Grand Canyon and back. So far have about 400 miles on the conversion > and am very happy with the performance. Just need to lick this starting > issue. > > Rich > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-~> > We give away $70,000 a month! Come to iWin.com for > your chance to win! > http://us.click.yahoo.com/olMXHC/BJVCAA/4ihDAA/X7OVlB/TM > ---------------------------------------------------------------------_-> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > subaruvanagon-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:23:54 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Townsend Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Townsend Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I have a 90 Carat, and I am quite happy with it -- although it is a little loud at 65 mph or above. However, it is not a camper or a weekender, so we have to take a tent along for the kids. Now, in a moment of great weakness, I might be tempted to buy a 1.6 Diesel Westy to have a camper and because I like Diesels. (Well, I like TDI's anyway). If I do buy a 1.6 NA Diesel Westy, just how much slower and noisier than my Carat would it be? I've heard the jokes about runners passing them on hills, but is it really that bad? Thanks, Michael Townsend " . . . Is one Vanagon in the family enough?" ---------- > From: Frederick M. Wasserstein > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report > Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:03 PM > > Where are you located, we plan a trip to the Grand Canyon this fall with my > diesel westy, I am quite concerned about taking it over the mountain passes. > What route do you think might work? Has any of the list members with 1.6 > diesels ever try to go over high mountain passes? I am glad your conversion > is running well, I got my first chance to see a converted van this weekend > and the difference in noise(Lack there of) and power( more than I thought > possible for a Vanagon) was quite amazing. If I could find a fixer up > Vanagon somewhere here in Nebraska I would really consider the 2.2 Subaru > engine! > Fred > 1982 Vanagon Westy Diesel "Sammy" > 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 " The Beast" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:26:32 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The vehicles of the size and weight of Vanagon, especialy Westy are powered with V6 200hp now days. The 2.1l wasserboxer is lacking power for safe freeway driving, the diesel is just a joke, don't waist your money. Leon 85 Subwagen Westy Michael Townsend wrote: > Hi, > > I have a 90 Carat, and I am quite happy with it -- although it is a little > loud at 65 mph or above. However, it is not a camper or a weekender, so we > have to take a tent along for the kids. Now, in a moment of great > weakness, I might be tempted to buy a 1.6 Diesel Westy to have a camper and > because I like Diesels. (Well, I like TDI's anyway). If I do buy a 1.6 > NA Diesel Westy, just how much slower and noisier than my Carat would it > be? I've heard the jokes about runners passing them on hills, but is it > really that bad? > > Thanks, > Michael Townsend > " . . . Is one Vanagon in the family enough?" > > ---------- > > From: Frederick M. Wasserstein > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report > > Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:03 PM > > > > Where are you located, we plan a trip to the Grand Canyon this fall with > my > > diesel westy, I am quite concerned about taking it over the mountain > passes. > > What route do you think might work? Has any of the list members with 1.6 > > diesels ever try to go over high mountain passes? I am glad your > conversion > > is running well, I got my first chance to see a converted van this > weekend > > and the difference in noise(Lack there of) and power( more than I thought > > possible for a Vanagon) was quite amazing. If I could find a fixer up > > Vanagon somewhere here in Nebraska I would really consider the 2.2 Subaru > > engine! > > Fred > > 1982 Vanagon Westy Diesel "Sammy" > > 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 " The Beast" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:44:36 EST Reply-To: SyncrogalVW@CS.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Loretta Abbott-Kennon Subject: Re: RH Window and Seal instalation $80 in Labor?!#X!Help!!! Comments: To: napszeerf@yahoo.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_34.12e4c068.27f3b544_boundary" --part1_34.12e4c068.27f3b544_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Phil, I have put in windows on several of my cars. The best thing to do is wait until a hot day to do it so that the rubber is soft and easy to work with. Some people use a silicone lubricant but I have never tried this. 1. Fit the glass into the new rubber seal. 2. insert a small rope into the groove in the seal where it will eventually go into the sheet metal (make sure this rope has excess of at least 7 inches on each side once in) 3. With one person inside with the "rope" and the other outside holding the glass in place, pull the string starting at one end and have the outside person follow the string with firm pressure to seat the window. 4. Once the lip of the seal has been extended over the sheet metal go outside and using the heel of your hand pound the glass around the perimeter to make sure it is fully seated. That should be it, good luck! -Loretta 87 Syncro 90 GL --part1_34.12e4c068.27f3b544_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Phil, I have put in windows on several of my cars.  The best thing to do
is wait until a hot day to do it so that the rubber is soft and easy to work
with.  Some people use a silicone lubricant but I have never tried this.  
1. Fit the glass into the new rubber seal. 2. insert a small rope into the
groove in the seal where it will eventually go into the sheet metal (make
sure this rope has excess of at least 7 inches on each side once in) 3. With
one person inside with the "rope" and the other outside holding the glass in
place, pull the string starting at one end and have the outside person follow
the string with firm pressure to seat the window. 4. Once the lip of the seal
has been extended over the sheet metal go outside and using the heel of your
hand pound the glass around the perimeter to make sure it is fully seated.

That should be it, good luck!

-Loretta
87 Syncro
90 GL --part1_34.12e4c068.27f3b544_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:45:19 -0800 Reply-To: Marcus Ward Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marcus Ward Subject: '89 Westy - Dometic upgrades MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just picked up an '89 Westy. Does anyone have any tips for upgrading the efficiency/effectiveness of the unit? Thanks, Marcus Seattle, WA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:53:43 -0800 Reply-To: Chris D'Amico Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris D'Amico Subject: more anti theft tips MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii dear listers, i know we all love our vans and have put alot of blood, sweat and tears and money towards them. are there any more tricks and tips on anti theft devises? someone mentioned a fuel switch a couple of weeks ago.... chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:15:59 -0500 Reply-To: Joe Romas Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Romas Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report Comments: To: Leon Korkin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Leon, I too like diesels however I've never owned a diesel vanagon but I've owned 2 TDI's and they are great. Only somebody that's never driven a tdi and hates diesels would tell you not to. Go for it! Joe 84 gl 99.5 jetta tdi 90 jetta gas past 96 passat tdi wagon too many other vw's past to mention. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Leon Korkin" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:26 PM Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report > The vehicles of the size and weight of Vanagon, especialy Westy are powered > with V6 200hp now days. > The 2.1l wasserboxer is lacking power for safe freeway driving, the diesel is > just a joke, don't waist your money. > Leon > 85 Subwagen Westy > > Michael Townsend wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > I have a 90 Carat, and I am quite happy with it -- although it is a little > > loud at 65 mph or above. However, it is not a camper or a weekender, so we > > have to take a tent along for the kids. Now, in a moment of great > > weakness, I might be tempted to buy a 1.6 Diesel Westy to have a camper and > > because I like Diesels. (Well, I like TDI's anyway). If I do buy a 1.6 > > NA Diesel Westy, just how much slower and noisier than my Carat would it > > be? I've heard the jokes about runners passing them on hills, but is it > > really that bad? > > > > Thanks, > > Michael Townsend > > " . . . Is one Vanagon in the family enough?" > > > > ---------- > > > From: Frederick M. Wasserstein > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > > Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report > > > Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:03 PM > > > > > > Where are you located, we plan a trip to the Grand Canyon this fall with > > my > > > diesel westy, I am quite concerned about taking it over the mountain > > passes. > > > What route do you think might work? Has any of the list members with 1.6 > > > diesels ever try to go over high mountain passes? I am glad your > > conversion > > > is running well, I got my first chance to see a converted van this > > weekend > > > and the difference in noise(Lack there of) and power( more than I thought > > > possible for a Vanagon) was quite amazing. If I could find a fixer up > > > Vanagon somewhere here in Nebraska I would really consider the 2.2 Subaru > > > engine! > > > Fred > > > 1982 Vanagon Westy Diesel "Sammy" > > > 1984 GMC Suburban Diesel 4 X 4 " The Beast" > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:04:58 -0700 Reply-To: Bret Berger Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bret Berger Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report Comments: To: Leon Korkin In-Reply-To: <3AC25708.8F022793@surfree.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > the diesel is > just a joke, don't waist your money. > Leon > 85 Subwagen Westy boo hiss. -bret saint george, utah 82 diesel westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:26:46 MST Reply-To: Joe Fortino Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Fortino Subject: Re: [more anti theft tips] Comments: To: Chris DAmico Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable how about a club steering/pedel lock?? do they make them? Chris D'Amico wrote: dear listers, i know we all love our vans and have put alot of blood, sweat and tears and money towards them. are there any more tricks and tips on anti theft devises? someone mentioned a fuel switch a couple of weeks ago.... chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=3Dtext VW addict ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D= 1 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:28:50 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) Comments: To: maxjoyce@IPA.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the ignition on you can turn the engine over by hand and hear the injector squirt each time a plug fires. Be careful. Ken Lewis http://neksiwel.20m.com On Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:34:59 -0600 Max/Joyce Wellhouse writes: I pulled each injector bank > outindividually and did the crank test, but the spray of the > injectors was > just that, more of a constant spray than a pulsing type effect like > I was > led to believe it should be ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:49:07 -0700 Reply-To: Sean Garrett Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Sean Garrett Subject: Re: '89 Westy - Dometic upgrades Comments: To: marcusward@MSN.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Put a fan on the inside to circulate the air. Any RV store has a little batery powerd unit for 15 bucks. I have one... very effective. SeanG 80 Westy 95 EVC >From: Marcus Ward >Reply-To: Marcus Ward >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: '89 Westy - Dometic upgrades >Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:45:19 -0800 > >I just picked up an '89 Westy. Does anyone have any tips for upgrading the >efficiency/effectiveness of the unit? > >Thanks, >Marcus >Seattle, WA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:55:24 -0600 Reply-To: "Smola, Tony" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Smola, Tony" Subject: retractable antenna for Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I just discovered that the Carat, had a retractable antenna. This is a cool item to have since you won't have to worry about breakage when not near the van. And you will be able to go through the gentler car cashes without worrying about your antenna ripping off. I just ordered one $35 for the antenna and $7 for the bracket ( new VW) Malibu Tony 85' Westy 8 degrees BTDC ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:53:32 -0500 Reply-To: "George J. Lampman" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "George J. Lampman" Subject: Adhesives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------BB350F8A1F68E850C35301BC" --------------BB350F8A1F68E850C35301BC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lord corporation makea a full line of adhesives that will just about stick anything to anything. You can check out their products at http://www.lord.com/solutions/adhesives.htm --------------BB350F8A1F68E850C35301BC Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lord corporation makea a full line of adhesives that will just about stick anything to anything.  You can check out their products at   http://www.lord.com/solutions/adhesives.htm --------------BB350F8A1F68E850C35301BC-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:35:13 -0800 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: palm vs fingers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > - > > > Rich, > > What do you mean by this part of your post? > > > make sure you wet sand with the palm of your hand and not your > fingertips. > > > > fingertips = uneven surface prep? > > Dazed and confused, > > JGS > '84 Westy, Bleu schtroumpf > > fingers make for fingerlike impressions in whatever you sand. palm is not so great either. best to use a sanding pad or block made for that purpose, unless your palm is perfectly flat and made of wood. mark... ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:36:03 -0500 Reply-To: Addison Leplatte Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Addison Leplatte Subject: Of Buses Towing Boats (kayaks & racks) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well i can finally add my.02 worth.. Towing a boat with a Vanagon is governed by a simple rule... VW's can carry an Elephant on the inside but can't pull a Chihuhua. I had an 82 air cooled and ordered the hitch (attaches to the tow hooks) to pull a Siren 17 sailboat (max gross weight 1200 lbs)..I killed the bus coming back from Panama City Florida..heard a loud whirring flapping noise coming from the cv axles in the rear and she never ran right after the trip..So I bought a Dodge Grand Caravan..great power but a poor camper.. So I bought a 1.9 84 Vanagon .. I tried my Quick'n'Easy racks and they worked but I prefer my Yakima 1a towers with a pair of 78" bars.. Can you pull a boat? Sure.. but comfortably and safely uphill; nothing over 500 lbs total weight if you are doing it regularly over distances of 100 miles roundtrip..Can it be done with more? Sure..all it takes is time, money and attention..(I thought the idea was to have fun)..This leaves the following possible list of boats for sailors: You'll get the idea 1)WestWight potter 15 2)Dovekie 3)Siren (I'm biased) For power boats any aluminium johnboat or skiff in the sub 17ft range.. Finally to make life fun if you need your water and bus fix Yakima (or Thule) gutter mount uprights, 78" or 96" racks, extensions if you have a camper and your favorite kayak or canoe on top... Final note if you stick with Paddlecraft thats one less thing that needs maintenance (gas oil rigging etc...) See you sailing Addison PADDLEVAN ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 08:38:16 +0900 Reply-To: Yoshi Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Yoshi Subject: Re: '89 Westy - Dometic upgrades Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sean Garrett wrote: > Put a fan on the inside to circulate the air. Any RV store has a little > batery powerd unit for 15 bucks. I have one... very effective. Hi, I attached ventilater to the side panels. Item from REIMO-2000 Ctlgs http://members.aol.com/winpai/vntltn.jpg I confirm refrigerator condition in this summer. Then, I will attach two-fans to the ventilator in autumn. Thanks, Yosh@87Westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:46:51 EST Reply-To: SBWC919@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian McClure Subject: Re: more anti theft tips MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I put a big DIESEL badge on the back of all of my cars. get the biggest one you can from a rabbit or whatever. I find this to be the most powerful anti- theft device known to man! So long as thieves are to stupid to figure out that Dodge never made a diesel caravan i will be ok! :-)) Brian 83 Urabus ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:55:30 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Hembel Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Hembel Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] RAB Progress Report Comments: To: Bret Berger MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes! Booo Hissss too! Like my westy Diesel Lots. But it is slow and top speed is 65. (4 speed) 5 speeds are nicer and faster. I'm planning on upgrading to a 1.6 TD. But I hear the 1.9 TD is to die for. I don't drive gassers YUCK! J.Hembel- 00Bug TDI, 83 Isuzu P'up Diesel, 82 Westy Diesel Bret Berger wrote: > > the diesel is > > just a joke, don't waist your money. > > Leon > > 85 Subwagen Westy > > boo hiss. > > -bret > saint george, utah > 82 diesel westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:52:49 -0700 Reply-To: Patrick Bryson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Patrick Bryson Subject: Re: Of Buses Towing Boats (kayaks & racks) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I pulled a Prindle 16 for a couple of years with '78 Westy and didn't have any trouble at all. Of course I cruise kinda slowly, never over 70. Patrick 85 Westy currently pulling a Hobie 18. Never over 75 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Addison Leplatte" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:36 PM Subject: Of Buses Towing Boats (kayaks & racks) > Well i can finally add my.02 worth.. > Towing a boat with a Vanagon is governed by a simple rule... > VW's can carry an Elephant on the inside but can't pull a Chihuhua. > I had an 82 air cooled and ordered the hitch (attaches to the > tow hooks) to pull a Siren 17 sailboat (max gross weight 1200 lbs)..I killed the bus coming back from Panama City Florida..heard a loud whirring flapping noise coming from the cv axles in the rear and she never ran right after the trip..So I bought a Dodge Grand Caravan..great power but a poor camper.. > So I bought a 1.9 84 Vanagon .. I tried my Quick'n'Easy racks and they worked but I prefer my Yakima 1a towers with a pair of 78" bars.. > Can you pull a boat? Sure.. but comfortably and safely uphill; nothing over 500 lbs total weight if you are doing it regularly over distances of 100 miles roundtrip..Can it be done with more? Sure..all it takes is time, money and attention..(I thought the idea was to have fun)..This leaves the following possible list of boats for sailors: You'll get the idea > 1)WestWight potter 15 > 2)Dovekie > 3)Siren (I'm biased) > For power boats any aluminium johnboat or skiff in the sub 17ft range.. > Finally to make life fun if you need your water and bus fix > Yakima (or Thule) gutter mount uprights, 78" or 96" racks, extensions if you have a camper and your favorite kayak or canoe on top... > Final note if you stick with Paddlecraft thats one less thing that needs maintenance (gas oil rigging etc...) > > See you sailing > Addison > PADDLEVAN > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:19:32 -0500 Reply-To: Andrew Fox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Fox Subject: "stop fill" propane tank fill valve problem Comments: cc: matt-greenwell@utc.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii List, I have been doing a lot of researching about propane tanks for the westy lately as a result of the failure of my "stop fill" fill valve. Here is what i found out, and i'm still not sure what the best thing to is. Please let myself and everyone else know if any of the following is not accurate. Some of our westy's have a "stop fill" brand fill valve identified by a sticker on the propane tank rock guard which says stop fill on it and by the unique set-up whereby a copper tube runs on the outside of the tank from a small hole about 3/4 way up the tank to the fill valve. The "stop fill" valve is'nt made anymore because it is prone to a failure in which after filling propane continues to leak out of the fill valve until the tank is emptied. I have heard reports that there is a kit to repair the stop fill valve but have been unable to find anyone who sells this kit and if repaired the valve would still be prone to failure. One fix described in the archives is to install a "stop cock" or bleeder valve in the small hole 3/4 of the way up the tank and replace the "stop fill" valve with an ordinary acme style fill vavle. With this fix the upper bleeder valve would be opened while filling and when about 80% full liquid propane would shoot out of the valve letting you know its full. Modern propane tanks work like this except they have float connected to the fill valve so that in addition to liquid propane shooting out the bleeder 80% up the tank the fill valve automatically closes when the float gets up to the 80% mark. As far as I know the float cannot be installed on a tank that does'nt already have one. The main question is weather or not to install the bleeder valve in the top hole, and regular fill valve in place of the stop fill valve or to pay $220-$600 for a new tank. With this fix the tank looks exactly like a modern tank although if the person filling the tank forgets to open the bleeder they could overfill the tank resulting in the tank bursting. Any information, experiences, advice greatly appreciated, Thanks, Andrew Fox 86 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:33:05 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: retractable antenna for Vanagon Comments: To: "Smola, Tony" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tony, where did you order the antenna and bracket from? John Rodgers Driver of an 88 GL with broken antenna "Smola, Tony" wrote: > > I just discovered that the Carat, had a retractable antenna. This is a cool > item to have since you won't have to worry about breakage when not near the > van. And you will be able to go through the gentler car cashes without > worrying about your antenna ripping off. I just ordered one $35 for the > antenna and $7 for the bracket ( new VW) > > Malibu Tony 85' Westy 8 degrees BTDC ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:35:42 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: "stop fill" propane tank fill valve problem Comments: To: Andrew Fox In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 07:19 PM 3/28/2001, Andrew Fox wrote: >Some of our westy's have a "stop fill" "AutoStop" I believe. Made by Marshall Brass >brand fill valve identified by a >sticker on the propane tank rock guard which says stop fill on it and by >the unique set-up whereby a copper tube runs on the outside of the tank >from a small hole about 3/4 way up the tank to the fill valve. The "stop >fill" valve is'nt made anymore because it is prone to a failure in which >after filling propane continues to leak out of the fill valve until the >tank is emptied. Or more likely because it is complicated and not much of an improvement on the ordinary method, so few people bought them. > I have heard reports that there is a kit to repair the >stop fill valve but have been unable to find anyone who sells this kit and >if repaired the valve would still be prone to failure. If your valve is made of zinc it cannot be repaired. If of brass, I think that the kit is available from Marshall Brass. > One fix described >in the archives is to install a "stop cock" or bleeder valve in the small >hole 3/4 of the way up the tank and replace the "stop fill" valve with an >ordinary acme style fill vavle. With this fix the upper bleeder valve >would be opened while filling and when about 80% full liquid propane would >shoot out of the valve letting you know its full. Modern propane tanks >work like this except they have float connected to the fill valve so that >in addition to liquid propane shooting out the bleeder 80% up the tank the >fill valve automatically closes when the float gets up to the 80% mark. I'm not sure there is such a float -- it's a feature on recently made *DOT (BBQ-type)* tanks, but not necessarily on ASME tanks such as ours. Not saying you're wrong, but I'd be inclined to re-check your info. >The main question is weather or not to install the bleeder valve in the top >hole, and regular fill valve in place of the stop fill valve or to pay >$220-$600 for a new tank. If you need a tank, get a tank. If you need a valve, get a valve. The new tank will come with a manual fill/manual bleed setup because that's all there is now. If you want an Autostop valve like the original, I have one (NOS) for sale, you can see it on my web page. > With this fix the tank looks exactly like a >modern tank although if the person filling the tank forgets to open the >bleeder they could overfill the tank resulting in the tank bursting. Actually I don't think so -- I don't think the delivery pump can produce anything like that pressure. The more plausible danger is of failing to stop when the bleed valve starts spraying liquid, leading to an overfilled tank which might indeed burst if it got hot. This can be a consideration, because most LP attendants are expecting a much larger fill than we can take, so they tend to start the flow and only then open the bleed valve. In any case, the solution is simple; just bleed off until no more liquid comes from the bleed valve. david >Any information, experiences, advice greatly appreciated, > >Thanks, >Andrew Fox >86 Westy David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:48:50 -0500 Reply-To: moonwoodfreeze Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: moonwoodfreeze Subject: Transmission woes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_04A1_01C0B7C0.1C71D580" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_04A1_01C0B7C0.1C71D580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a 1986 vanagon gl. For a few months now, the automatic = transmission has been acting a bit wierd: sticking, not shifting = properly , etc. but once it gets past going it'll drive fine, just not = so great stopping and starting. now , yesterday the van will hard ly = drive forward, but in reverse fine. I checked the tranny fluid and it's = brownish red and very watery. i'm planning on draining the fluid out and = renewing it. can anybody shine a light on the situation at hand? Thanks, Joe ------=_NextPart_000_04A1_01C0B7C0.1C71D580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a 1986 vanagon gl. For a few months now, the = automatic=20 transmission has been acting a bit wierd: sticking, not shifting = properly , etc.=20 but once it gets past going it'll drive fine, just not so great stopping = and=20 starting. now , yesterday the van will hard ly drive forward, but in = reverse=20 fine. I checked the tranny fluid and it's brownish red and very watery. = i'm=20 planning on draining the fluid out and renewing it. can anybody shine a = light on=20 the situation at hand?
 
Thanks,
Joe
------=_NextPart_000_04A1_01C0B7C0.1C71D580-- Shop online without a credit card http://www.rocketcash.com RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:50:38 EST Reply-To: Sersote@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Paul M. Hillbish" Subject: Re: Rear Opening Dimension Needed on Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/28/01 4:24:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, maxjoyce@IPA.NET writes: << I can still get a 12' canoe in and out of my 90 GL with the ducting in place. I would think you'd be more concerned about height than width. >> I used my 83.5 Westy as a moving van last year. I fit everything I own (Not at one time) in there, except the box spring for my bed. I couldn't fit it in the rear hatch because of the cabinet tree there. The couch, all the furniture, the mattress. No problem. If I didn't have a Westy, the box spring would have fir no problem as well. Although, we only moved a block down the street, so we walked the box spring down at 2:30 AM. If it were farther, we would have tied it to the roof. --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:30:53 -0500 Reply-To: Stephen Steele Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stephen Steele Subject: Slow diesels, underpowered vans Comments: To: Leon Korkin Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-2" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Leon: > The vehicles of the size and weight of Vanagon, especialy Westy are powered > with V6 200hp now days. > The 2.1l wasserboxer is lacking power for safe freeway driving, I have driven my Caravelle in all kinds of high speed traffic. The PO reported driving typically at 70 MPH daily. I have never had any problem in getting the van to speed and maintaining it at 65 - 70 MPH; even with 160 K on the odometer it cruises all day long at 70. Hans got his name from climbing hills in WVa at a pace that just amazed me. I had to give him an Alpine mountain climber's name. In two way traffic , on smaller state routes, I do have trouble passing others because of a lack of acceleration; but with planning, I do often pass. > the diesel is just a joke, don't waist your money. I've talked to several diesel owners who love their stinky vans! Thank God for diversity in all things. -- Stephen Steele Chillicothe OH '91 Caravelle "Hans" '84 Westfalia "Fritz" '81 Diesel Rabbit "Ol' Yeller" by PO '90 Jetta GL 16 yo Sons' "we bought it together" car '74 MGB "Terrance" My first car...yep, I've kept it since '74 '93 Chevy S-10 I hate it ... but sometimes I need a truck ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:08:59 EST Reply-To: Sersote@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Paul M. Hillbish" Subject: Re: more anti theft tips MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/28/01 5:09:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, chrisdamico@YAHOO.COM writes: << i know we all love our vans and have put alot of blood, sweat and tears and money towards them. are there any more tricks and tips on anti theft devises? >> Yeah, a paint bomb filled with Hydrofluoric acid. --Paul-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:27:07 -0800 Reply-To: Michael aka ECHO Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael aka ECHO Subject: Re: reserve coolent tank In-Reply-To: <20010328174512.24691.qmail@nwcst291.netaddress.usa.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Mixing of coolants ESPECIALLY orange and the green ones can do that... Michael aka ECHO --- Joe Fortino wrote: > Hello all, > last night after doing some tuneup work I looked > inside my reserve > coolent tank and the sides seems gel-ish coated, > anyone have some > feedback or is this no big deal, my van has been > flushed already. > > Thanks > Joe > > VW addict > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 ===== MY first VW! 1980 Vanagon L "D'Arius" LOOK a picture!!!http://www.geocities.com/echo207/vanagon.html Need any general computer help? Computer blonde? E-mail: echo207@excite.com and I will see what I can do to help. And a limping 84 buick Skylark __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:46:03 -0800 Reply-To: Craig Spaeth Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Craig Spaeth Subject: Re: To Diesel or not to Diesel MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To compare a diesel Westy to a new TDI is not a very fair way to let this guy know about driving a diesel Westy. You need lots of patience in a diesel Westy. We had one for almost a year. It was really nice when we used it for just camping. We started using it for everyday use and it was just too slow. Ours had a top speed of 60 (it would do 65 but was wound up really tight and would use a ton of oil at 65.) 40-45mph was quite often seen on the regular freeway style hills. This is not mountain grades but regular rolling hills. If 30mpg and sleeping four is your main concern, go for it. We sold ours because it was too slow. I have two little girsl (one and five years old) and when they go to sleep you want to be able to cover some ground. In the 90 Multi van we can cruise easily at 65-70 and the same hills that we did at 45 in the diesel, we don't even notice anymore. We get 15-18mpg now which hurts. The diesel is also very loud at cruise. The new TDI's are like very similar to their gas drinking brethren with similar power and amenities. The diesel Westy is nothing like a gas powered one. If slowness is a concern it is probably too slow for you. If slowness does not matter and mileage is your big deal, there are not many vehicles that get 30mpg sleep 4 and you can have your morning hot chocolate before you open the door. Good luck deciding. This is based on actually owning and driving a 4spd diesel. If you talk about putting in 5spd trannies and TDI motors than sure that would be a different tale altogether, but this is my two cents on owning and driving a diesel. One other thing your mpg is way better but the diesels tend to use oil a lot quicker. hope this helps, Craig the Gorge VW club gorgevwclub.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:46:24 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: "stop fill" propane tank fill valve problem In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.2.20010328192439.00af76b0@#pop1.attglobal.net@192. 168.0.1> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 07:35 PM 3/28/2001, David Beierl wrote: >At 07:19 PM 3/28/2001, Andrew Fox wrote: > >>Some of our westy's have a "stop fill" Ok, to clear up some possible confusion: The Marshall Brass Autostop valve is a 1 3/4" Acme fill valve which operates by sensing the change from gas to liquid from the bleeder, and closing off the fill operation in response to the change. Like all Acme fill valves, it does not allow propane to flow back out through the valve at all. This valve was discontinued by the mfr. years ago in favor of simpler and cheaper manual valves. However, mfrs of ASME-spec (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) tanks some years ago started putting float-operated shutoffs inside the tanks to prevent overfilling -- this may be the real reason the Autostop valve died, I don't know. Similar float-operated shutoffs are now mandated in DOT/BBQ tanks -- sometime in 2002 it will become illegal to fill a BBQ tank that does not have the internal shutoff. However the shutoff valve in ASME tanks appears to be manufacturing practice and not a legal requirement, based on my somewhat perfunctory searching of the web. The manufacturer of Westy tanks is Manchester Tank -- they say on their web page that they use "stop-fill" internal valves in their ASME tanks, though they don't refer specifically to the unusually small tank used by the Westy. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:56:48 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: headlight advice Comments: To: jboldway@INTCON.NET In-Reply-To: <200103280137.f2S1bbN17165@linux.intcon.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit This all depends on what size bulb you install in there. Assuming you go with the "stock" 55/60W bulb you will see, seat-of-the-pants, twice as much as you did with the sealed beams in there. I run 80/100s in my 1984 Westfalia and I could not ask for better. Drivers do NOT "flash" me - and I have seen my van coming at me at night - NOT blinding light as the whole purpose of the H4 is to have better AIMED light and not more of it. Picture that grade school film projector - when it was in focus it was great - slightly out and it was miserable! In case you are interested I have new Bosch European H4s for the Vanagon with 55/60W bulbs, park lights (true European lights have park lights IN them!), weather boots and installation instructions for $80 USD - Vanagon List members will get free shipping on these. I also have some used Hella European H4s coming in on the 7th that are as above only they come with the entire light "bucket" - price for these are $65 USD including shipping. David Marshall Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 • Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions • Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales • European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of James T. Sent: March 27, 2001 11:38 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: headlight advice Howdy! I need some advice - anybody know the output of the H4 euro style round halogen headlights offered at places like the Bus Depot versus the light output from regular halogens like sylvania? I want the best lighting I can get but don't want to spend money for something that's just different and not any better than regular halogens. Thanks in advance! Tom Boldway '85 Westy "Panzerkampingwagen" --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:08:35 -0500 Reply-To: Bob O Shaughnessy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob O Shaughnessy Subject: Re: more anti theft tips In-Reply-To: <20010328215343.92700.qmail@web11605.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit My number one anti-theft tip is to make sure that you have the front plastic slider bushing installed on your sliding window. On 3/28/01 4:53 PM, "Chris D'Amico" wrote: > dear listers, > i know we all love our vans and have put alot of > blood, sweat and tears and money towards them. are > there any more tricks and tips on anti theft devises? > someone mentioned a fuel switch a couple of weeks > ago.... > chris _________________________________________________________ Bob O'Shaughnessy, Columbus, OH vanagon@columbus.rr.com 99 A3 Jetta TDI 85GL with basic Westy interior 74 Bus (Dad's) 72 Wife, 94 Rabbit, 95 Cat, 96 cat, 98 Kid, 00 Kid 52 House ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:27:01 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: retractable antenna for Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit So, Tony... what kind of antenna did the 85s have? I've had an 86 gl, an 88 wolfie and now an 89 syncro westy. They all had retractable antennas. Am I missing something here? Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:36:20 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: retractable antenna for Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit you know... everytime this thread comes up I pose the question of where to find a single piece, flexible, more or less unbreakable antenna... but nobody seems to know. I have one on my 98 Grand Cherokee. I can be bent to the hood without breaking, but is quite stiff. Will go through a car wash with absolutely no problem. I hate the wimpy retractable antennas that came on our vans and don't want an expensive PITA electric one. Haven't any of you vw experts ever scored something like that? TIA. Where does Jeep get them I wonder? Now that I think of it, I think my 86 gl had one in the windshield which was very cool... nothing to break off. Why don't they still make those... or do they? I promise I won't ask again. Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Smola, Tony To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 12:55 PM Subject: retractable antenna for Vanagon > I just discovered that the Carat, had a retractable antenna. This is a cool > item to have since you won't have to worry about breakage when not near the > van. And you will be able to go through the gentler car cashes without > worrying about your antenna ripping off. I just ordered one $35 for the > antenna and $7 for the bracket ( new VW) > > Malibu Tony 85' Westy 8 degrees BTDC > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:40:46 -0800 Reply-To: dawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dawn Subject: subaru conversion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is the subaru conversion easier than the i-4 conversion? I can get a legacy motor for 375.00 Darrel 88 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:46:53 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: Of Buses Towing Boats (kayaks & racks) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Finally to make life fun if you need your water and bus fix > Yakima (or Thule) gutter mount uprights, 78" or 96" racks, extensions if you have a camper and your favorite kayak or canoe on top... Addison, et al... I know this has been discussed before, but I've lost all the info I saved in a hard drive crash (I know, back up)... I have a syncro westy and two kayaks... one twelve footer and one fourteen. So I need gutter mount uprights with extensions, right? 78" or 96" refers to what? And which is better Yakima or Thule? Which is cheaper? Should I be asking Steve Lashley? Also, somebody was talking awhile back about mounting the racks directly (permanently) into the fiberglass of the westy top. Good idea, bad idea? Rains alot here, so I'm skeptical, but would like to keep from scratching, damaging my gutters. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't mind spending a little more to get something that will be more serviceable for a longer period of time, but need to keep it within reason. TIA. Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:54:44 -0800 Reply-To: mike and shari Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike and shari Organization: none Subject: Re: subaru conversion Comments: To: dawn MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't know about the I-4 conversion but the subaru conversion is not for the faint of heart. It takes an incredible amount of patience and ingenuity. Definitely not 'turn-key'. Subavan almost ready for road testing, Mike G. dawn wrote: > Is the subaru conversion easier than the i-4 conversion? I can get a > legacy motor for 375.00 > Darrel 88 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:12:41 -0600 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: subaru conversion Comments: To: dawn MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Aaaaaaaaaack! Not the 'S' word! You have a VW. People who love VWs love VW parts. Go with the VW motor. Chris, '85 All-VW Vanagon ----- Original Message ----- From: dawn To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 11:40 PM Subject: subaru conversion > Is the subaru conversion easier than the i-4 conversion? I can get a > legacy motor for 375.00 > Darrel 88 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:19:44 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: retractable antenna for Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >where to find a single piece, flexible, more or less unbreakable antenna.< -snip- > Contact your local titanium antenna dealer. ; ) -snip- it has to be available somewhere, eh? Mick ----- Original Message ----- From: mike and shari To: Mick Kalber Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 4:57 PM Subject: Re: retractable antenna for Vanagon > Contact your local titanium antenna dealer. ; ) > > Mike G. > > Mick Kalber wrote: > > > you know... everytime this thread comes up I pose the question of where to > > find a single piece, flexible, more or less unbreakable antenna... but > > nobody seems to know. I have one on my 98 Grand Cherokee. I can be bent to > > the hood without breaking, but is quite stiff. Will go through a car wash > > with absolutely no problem. I hate the wimpy retractable antennas that came > > on our vans and don't want an expensive PITA electric one. Haven't any of > > you vw experts ever scored something like that? TIA. Where does Jeep get > > them I wonder? > > > > Now that I think of it, I think my 86 gl had one in the windshield which was > > very cool... nothing to break off. Why don't they still make those... or do > > they? > > > > I promise I won't ask again. > > > > Mick Kalber > > 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" > > Tropical Visions Video, Inc. > > 62 Halaulani Place > > Hilo, Hawaii 96720 > > 808-935-5557 > > 808-935-0066 (fax) > > hotlava@interpac.net > > www.volcanoscapes.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Smola, Tony > > To: > > Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 12:55 PM > > Subject: retractable antenna for Vanagon > > > > > I just discovered that the Carat, had a retractable antenna. This is a > > cool > > > item to have since you won't have to worry about breakage when not near > > the > > > van. And you will be able to go through the gentler car cashes without > > > worrying about your antenna ripping off. I just ordered one $35 for the > > > antenna and $7 for the bracket ( new VW) > > > > > > Malibu Tony 85' Westy 8 degrees BTDC > > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:42:49 -0600 Reply-To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: Wade Ebert In-Reply-To: Wade Ebert 's message of Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:25:09 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Wade, Door panels on new Ford's? Glued. Chrysler door panels? Glued. New GM's? Glued. They have only a couple of pinch welds, under the window moldings. There are a couple of manufacturers (Fuzor, and Duramix) of body panel adhesive's that have conducted crash test's on cars that have had the roof panel's, and quarter panels glued on. In a roll over situation it was found that the adhesives were as strong as, or stronger than a weld. If the factories are using the stuff, why shouldn't anyone else? It works for me. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:54:25 -0600 Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse Subject: Re: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) Comments: To: Randy Herd MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I forgot to mention trhat the Hall sender is new prior to thwe rengine removal. NEXT? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Herd" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 8:19 AM Subject: Re: Strange" no start" symptoms(long) > Mine turned out to be to hall sender in the dist. Took the ecu with it. > Difficult to remove from dist but was shorted out on the bottom of the > plastic wiring connector elbow. Would crank, catch (sometimes) & die. > Sometimes would run until you tried to increase the engine speed. > > Easy to check with a multimeter. > > The old one had all of the bottom plastic missing and been glued on the > sides (Also only had one screw holding the unit in.) > > > > Randy Herd > 86 GL Weekender > 68 Kombi > 98 Jeep Cherokee > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:22:09 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: Subaru conversion Comments: To: dawn In-Reply-To: <001101c0b812$ce970620$87f664ce@dmoroughan> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I think Chris Stann has my feelings at heart too! Keep it a Volkswagen, or at the least keep it German with an Audi engine. I have not personally installed a Subaru engine but I have a fair idea what is required. I feel the I4 engines are simpler to install especially if you get someone [like us] to do the wiring harness for you - both KEPs and Fast Forward's kits require minor fabrication of some parts - it takes a little thinking for installing both. BOTH conversions have their pluses and minuses. I openly state that I am biased towards the I4 conversions, this is what I do during my evenings and weekends! I am sure by the end of the day you will see arguments for both. If you have any questions about I4 conversions please let me know, I will try my best to assist you. David Marshall Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 • Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions • Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales • European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of dawn Sent: March 28, 2001 9:41 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: subaru conversion Is the subaru conversion easier than the i-4 conversion? I can get a legacy motor for 375.00 Darrel 88 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:14:37 -0700 Reply-To: cz137@HOME.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Cory Zumbrennen Subject: Re: [Syncro] o2 sensor Comments: To: joel diotte Comments: cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com, subaruvanagon@egroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It doesn't matter which they are connected to. Put anti-seize on the sensor threads before installation, be sure not to get any anti-seize on the sensor itself. Cory '90 Syncro Westy > > I have a new three wire sensor to install- there are two white wires- does > it matter which they are connected to? Any pointers on instalation. > thanks. > joel 87 syncro westy > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > If you would like to modify your subscription settings (including unsubscribing), visit: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro > Please remember that rude or offensive language is not allowed on the Syncro list. Please try your best to resolve differences privately and keep them off the list. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:01:49 -0800 Reply-To: steve@SYNCRO.ORG Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steven Schwenk Subject: Betts Custom Syncro Springs Comments: To: "syncro@egroups.com" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The syncro springs are done and will be delivered tomorrow. I have 3 or 4 extra sets available. They can ship out this week. The price is $400 + $24 S&H (USA) + 8% tax for Calif. orders. By contrast, the Siekel springs are $600 a set (+ shipping from Germany), and the stock springs are $1200 a set. This may be the last run I do. It will definitely be the last run at this price as I doubt i could muster enough orders for a third run to meet the quantity necessary for this price. For info and to order on line, go to: http://www.concentric.net/~Sxs/springs.shtml Steve http://www.syncro.org/ P.S. 2 WD springs are in the pipeline. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:31:35 -0500 Reply-To: joel diotte Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: joel diotte Subject: o2 sensor Comments: To: sullivan@OpenMarket.com Comments: cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com, subaruvanagon@egroups.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I have a new three wire sensor to install- there are two white wires- does it matter which they are connected to? Any pointers on instalation. thanks. joel 87 syncro westy _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:32:14 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: Simpler Alternative to welding body panels Comments: To: CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On the question of bonded panels, the aviation industry has for some years now used bonded panels in the construction of airliners, fighter aircraft, and bombers. I inspected the horizontal tail surface of an F-15 fighter and was surprised to find the surfaces bonded or glued to the support structure inside. I was accustomed to rivets holding those kinds of things together. Those skins experience a lot of stress traveling 600 to 1500 mph, and if they hold up to it....and they are.... then I'll buy it. The manufacturing industry cannot afford to have failures in such equipment, nor can they afford not to avail themselves of the newer technologies out there. There is a saying "Technology for Competitive Advantage". In the auto industry it's driven by the necessity of economic survival. The new technologies must be safe (who could afford the lawsuits?) and it must allow an edge on the competition. Same true in the aviation industry, but with an added twist. Who wants the defenders of the nation to be flying something that going to peel it's skin or have a structural failure in flight because of a failed glue line. Yup, must be pretty good stuff. John Rodgers 88 GL Driver. Terry Kay wrote: > > Wade, > Door panels on new Ford's? > Glued. > Chrysler door panels? > Glued. > New GM's? > Glued. > They have only a couple of pinch welds, under the window moldings. > There are a couple of manufacturers (Fuzor, and Duramix) of body panel > adhesive's that have conducted crash test's on cars that have had the > roof panel's, and quarter panels glued on. > In a roll over situation it was found that the adhesives were as strong > as, or stronger than a weld. > If the factories are using the stuff, why shouldn't anyone else? > > It works for me. > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | > ||-(())----(())-| > > Terry 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:31:47 -0500 Reply-To: Stephen Steele Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stephen Steele Subject: Re: Of Buses Towing Boats (kayaks & racks) Comments: To: Mick Kalber Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Mick: > I know this has been discussed before, but I've lost all the info I saved in > a hard drive crash (I know, back up)... I have a syncro westy and two > kayaks... one twelve footer and one fourteen. So I need gutter mount > uprights with extensions, right? 78" or 96" refers to what? Yep. Numbers refer to the width of the transverse bars. > And which is better Yakima or Thule? Both are good quality. Yakima is American; Thule is Swedish/Scandinavian. > Which is cheaper? Should I be asking Steve > Lashley? Sure he's a Listee isn't he. > Also, somebody was talking awhile back about mounting the racks directly > (permanently) into the fiberglass of the westy top. > Good idea, bad idea? Now way ...not for me, anyway. > Rains alot here, so I'm skeptical, but would like to keep from scratching, > damaging my gutters. I've used Yakima's High Tower rain gutter mounts with the 96" bars for five years, as long as you use a protective rubber (provided) they don't hurt the finish. For four years I carried a heavy (85#) Old Town canoe. Switched to kayaks last year...they're a breeze to carry and tie down. > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't mind spending a > little more to get something that will be more serviceable for a longer > period of time, but need to keep it within reason. My system with gunwale brackets (now not needed) was less than $300 and has proven invaluable for all sorts of carrying jobs...money well spent. -- stephen reluctant header upper of the Central Ohio Westies (name this club contest in progress) ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:38:43 -0800 Reply-To: mike and shari Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike and shari Organization: none Subject: Re: subaru conversion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do love my VW but I hated that lump that previously resided in the rear of my otherwise wonderfully designed syncro! The decision to put an I-4, Sube engine or whatever should be an objective one based on solid factual information, not cheerleaders for german automobiles. p.s. Just because I love VW's doesn't necessarily mean that I love ALL of their parts. Mike G. CHRIS STANN wrote: > Aaaaaaaaaack! Not the 'S' word! > > You have a VW. People who love VWs love VW parts. Go with the VW motor. > > Chris, > '85 All-VW Vanagon > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: dawn > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 11:40 PM > Subject: subaru conversion > > > Is the subaru conversion easier than the i-4 conversion? I can get a > > legacy motor for 375.00 > > Darrel 88