Hi John

My idle valve measures 4.5 Ohms. I spent some time = replacing 2 resistors (one looked burnt) and only then did that baby = start vibrating. However, the current draw jumped to 750 milliamps (I = think the max should be 450) and idling stayed over 1200rpm. Anyhow, I = decided to clean and adjust my throttle switch as best I could and then = threw out the idle control unit so that the valve would not be = activated any longer. I then adjusted my idling to 1000rpm which seems = to be working very well. The engines always fires up immediately in = "cold" weather and idles round 700rpm. I give it a chance to = "wake up" while I go and prop up my double garage door (my = syncro scrapes the door otherwise). Without touching the accelerator I = reverse slowly out of the garage, jump out and unprop the garage door. = This whole procedure takes about 2 to 3 minutes and gives the engine a = chance to wake up decently (c'mon, everyone's fragile in the morning!). = I only hit that accelerator when I'm ready to hit 1st gear. It only = takes 2 gear changes and by the time I'm at the stop street on the = corner of my road (30 sec) the engine idle is near perfect. We are = going into winter now so the ambient temp should drop another 10 deg C, = but I am confident that all will be OK.

My advice: Buy another idle control unit or chuck it = out and drive without.

Regards
Nigel