Okay, so I walk into a small auto parts store. The have one bottle of redline oil, but not the kind I need. So I ask him can he order it? Only by case. Okay. Then he tells me about Synergy, that its better than Redline, that its the only synthetic oil approved by NASCAR, that it improves your gas mileage, that he put it in his truck and got an improvement of 3 or 4 miles per gallon. Okay.

Is he full of it? Has he been smoking dope? Does he just want my money? Or is this what my vanagon has been looking for?

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 05:40:32 EDT Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Benjamin Tan Subject: H & R springs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi folks, Thanks to the generosity of a fellow listee, I now have a set of H&R springs to try on my 87 GL. I'm interested in people's impression of these springs rear springs 29 951 HA 7/99 (probably manufacturing date) front springs 29 951 VA 7/99 They appear powder-coated a reddish purple w/ the part numbers in white letters. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks, BenT ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:52:16 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Diesel Performance Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >>Isn't "Diesel Performance" an oxymoron? >> >Only if you exclude factors like efficiency and reliablility from the >definition of "performance". To the former...only if you're talking VW 1600 diesel Vanagons. To the latter... try Nissan, Mazda or Mitsubishi diesels or Toyota turbodiesels. Then again, better not, you'd regret it big time! Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 www.goingplatinum.com/member/vw1 www.my-successcenter.com/member/vw1 www.aciimoney.com/index.shtml?vw1 VW & Toyota vans, Toyota diesels and Macintoshes rule ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:52:37 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: third brake light Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I'd like to put a brake-light behind the VW eblem on the tail gate with >the VW emblem over it. That'd be classy For my 66 Split I cut out card VW symbols and fitted them inside the taillights' lower (running/brake) compartment and in the front indicators. Not really noticable during the day, but OK at night. A VW symbol could easily be made by installing red superbright LEDs in the shape of a VW symbol, either by drilling the tailgate and fitting the LEDs directly into the sheetmetal or by making a black plastic (fiberglass?) fitting inside the rear window and fitting the LEDs into this. Make the LED circuit in series... a smaller cheaper pot needed than fitting them in parallel. A resistor can be used to adjust brightness. Include a few blue LEDs for a "blue-dot" purple effect (blue LEDs are expensive and dimmer than other colors). If I do build (strip?) a Bugaru roadster, I will use LEDs to make indicators and taillights, fitted into the steerable fiberglass front fenders and rears, as well as probably the A-pillars and front & rear lid edges. I've been thinking about color-selectable dimmable LEDs for some time now for custom backlit white-faced instruments. Any light mounted in the rear window should be sealed to the glass, or light will leak out and cause a distraction in thre rear-view mirror. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 www.goingplatinum.com/member/vw1 www.my-successcenter.com/member/vw1 www.aciimoney.com/index.shtml?vw1 VW & Toyota vans, Toyota diesels and Macintoshes rule ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:52:46 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: 14" 15" and 16" oh my! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >At 06:44 PM 5/4/2001, Mark Dorm wrote: >>I'd like to add to this inquiry. How many 15 inchers are out there and what >>are you doing for rubber? > >Oh dear...not very many, I believe. I saw one once and it looked like a >serious impediment to me. As to the rubber, I believe that would be a >special order. Might require the Russian Nyet-skid radial-ply con... er... rubber. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 05:30:12 -0500 Reply-To: Mark Ingalls Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Ingalls Subject: Weekender fold-down bed in brown checked? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00AE_01C0D524.74E0C380" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00AE_01C0D524.74E0C380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Volks, Anybody know the chances of finding a weekender fold-down rear seat for = a golden beige 85 GL? =20 It has the brown checked pattern. Thanks, Mark Ingalls 85 GL 75 Beetle ------=_NextPart_000_00AE_01C0D524.74E0C380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Volks,

Anybody know the chances of finding a = weekender=20 fold-down rear seat for a golden beige 85 GL?

It has the brown checked = pattern.

Thanks, Mark Ingalls

85 GL

75 Beetle

------=_NextPart_000_00AE_01C0D524.74E0C380-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:50:27 +1000 Reply-To: Ray Hunnam Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ray Hunnam Subject: Re: ISO Sliding Window Latch Comments: To: Stephen.Fry@bankofamerica.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Stephen There was a post recently from someone wanting to know how to take the sliding window apart. Can you post the details of how the window comes apart. Ray Hunnam ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Fry" To: Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 5:22 AM Subject: ISO Sliding Window Latch > Subject says it all. I am looking for a latch for an 85 Westfalia sliding > glass window. Took mine apart and over time lost some of the parts. I need a > replacement to beautify my van. Thanks for the help > Stephen > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 08:49:56 -0400 Reply-To: Joe Romas Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Romas Subject: Re: Pressurized Cooling Sys./Cyl. Head Comments: To: Gary Stearns MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0438_01C0D540.5C0C5830" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0438_01C0D540.5C0C5830 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gary There are also metal rings between the heads and sleeves. As I see = it the metal rings seal the combustion chamber and the little green "O" = rings seal the cooling system. Joe ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Gary Stearns=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 5:57 PM Subject: Pressurized Cooling Sys./Cyl. Head I've concluded that my head is leaking exhaust into the coolant. I = still have our prior engine kicking around with heads removed. I took a = look to remind myself of how the cylinder barrels seal to the head to = prevent this kind of leakage. What I found was a recess in the head the = the barrel fits into, and a ridiculously tiny insignificant little "o" = ring around the barrel to seal it. Is that it? There seems to be no = sealant or gasket material at all where the barrel seats against the = head! Could my repair be as simple (!) as removing the head and = replacing this little "o" ring, or is it likely that I'm actually = looking at a cracked head? Do these "o"rings fail? This is a rebuilt = engine w/ about 20k on it. Gary 2 down and maybe no more to go. Considering the TiiCo solution. ------=_NextPart_000_0438_01C0D540.5C0C5830 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Gary

There are also metal = rings=20 between the heads and sleeves. As I see it the metal rings seal the = combustion chamber and the little green "O" rings seal the cooling=20 system.

Joe

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Gary=20 Stearns

To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 5:57 = PM

Subject: Pressurized Cooling = Sys./Cyl.=20 Head

I've concluded that my head is = leaking exhaust=20 into the coolant. I still have our prior engine kicking = around=20 with heads removed. I took a look to remind myself of how the = cylinder=20 barrels seal to the head to prevent this kind of leakage. What I = found=20 was a recess in the head the the barrel fits into, and a ridiculously = tiny=20 insignificant little "o" ring around the barrel to seal it. Is = that it?=20 There seems to be no sealant or gasket material at all where the = barrel seats=20 against the head! Could my repair be as simple (!) as = removing the=20 head and replacing this little "o" ring, or is it likely that I'm = actually=20 looking at a cracked head? Do these "o"rings fail? This is = a=20 rebuilt engine w/ about 20k on it.

Gary

2 down and maybe no more to go. = Considering=20 the TiiCo solution.

------=_NextPart_000_0438_01C0D540.5C0C5830-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:07:54 EDT Reply-To: JordanVw@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@aol.com Subject: FS: single captains chair w/ adjustable armrests, grey velour MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ab.94ca632.2825633a_boundary" --part1_ab.94ca632.2825633a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit fits all vans. nice shape. email me if interested chris --part1_ab.94ca632.2825633a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit fits all vans. nice shape.

email me if interested
chris --part1_ab.94ca632.2825633a_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:12:39 EDT Reply-To: KENWILFY@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@aol.com Subject: Re: 14" 15" and 16" oh my! Comments: To: webmaster@beachin.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_5a.150dc1bc.28256457_boundary" --part1_5a.150dc1bc.28256457_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have 15" SA Alloy rims on my '91 Carat Vanagon. I am running BF Goodrich TAs that are 215 65 R15. I love them! Got the tires from www.tirerack.com for like $85 each plus shipping. Got the rims from me :) Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_5a.150dc1bc.28256457_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have 15" SA Alloy rims on my '91 Carat Vanagon. I am running BF Goodrich
TAs that are 215 65 R15. I love them! Got the tires from www.tirerack.com
for like $85 each plus shipping. Got the rims from me :)

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_5a.150dc1bc.28256457_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:21:47 EDT Reply-To: KENWILFY@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@aol.com Subject: Re: H & R springs Comments: To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_cd.6271e61.2825667b_boundary" --part1_cd.6271e61.2825667b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ben, the biggest mistake that people make when installing lowered springs is not also installing shocks that are setup for the springs. The catalogs I have for H & R springs or any other type always says, in really small print, "only recommended if installed with matching shocks". So when people put these on that complain that the ride is terrible. Of course it is because the shocks are hitting the stops before the can go normal travel for the springs. So my recommendation is that you get a set of shocks that is setup for the springs before you install them or you are going to be disappointed. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_cd.6271e61.2825667b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ben, the biggest mistake that people make when installing lowered springs is
not also installing shocks that are setup for the springs. The catalogs I
have for H & R springs or any other type always says, in really small print,
"only recommended if installed with matching shocks". So when people put
these on that complain that the ride is terrible. Of course it is because
the shocks are hitting the stops before the can go normal travel for the
springs. So my recommendation is that you get a set of shocks that is setup
for the springs before you install them or you are going to be disappointed.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_cd.6271e61.2825667b_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:33:27 EDT Reply-To: DieterKnittel@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dieter Knittel Subject: Call from Springfield,MO MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi list, This Message is for the Person, ( witch name i Forgot ) This here is Dieter with that 1986 Vanagon GL 2.1. You have called me I think on past monday, and said you wanted to come down on saturday, to take a look at my Van and check it out. Im still waiting for your call so i can give you direction please call me as soon as you can. Thanks Dieter 417 -338 9349 home 339 9810 cell Dieter Knittel 86 Vanagon GL 2.1 standart ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:40:45 EDT Reply-To: KENWILFY@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@aol.com Subject: Vanagon 15" Alloy Rims Sale on Seconds MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_87.aa2e158.28256aed_boundary" --part1_87.aa2e158.28256aed_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am down to my last three sets of Sunburst Alloy Rims. These are 15" x 6.5" Factory VW rims from South Africa. However these rims are a little more scratched than what I would call "minor". The scratches are on the face of the rim and noticeable. However the rims are straight and are functionally fine. Also the scratches would not be noticable from 10 feet away from the van and wouldn't take away from the overall effect of the rims. I am asking $180 each for these rims. As I said I only have three sets of 4 left (I have one extra) so if you want them at this price please email me or call me ASAP. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_87.aa2e158.28256aed_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am down to my last three sets of Sunburst Alloy Rims. These are 15" x 6.5"
Factory VW rims from South Africa. However these rims are a little more
scratched than what I would call "minor". The scratches are on the face of
the rim and noticeable. However the rims are straight and are functionally
fine. Also the scratches would not be noticable from 10 feet away from the
van and wouldn't take away from the overall effect of the rims. I am asking
$180 each for these rims.
As I said I only have three sets of 4 left (I have one extra) so if you want
them at this price please email me or call me ASAP.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_87.aa2e158.28256aed_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:43:23 -0300 Reply-To: 86 Westfalia Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: 86 Westfalia Subject: Re: Spring startup Comments: To: Phil Menchions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0D558.96E98AA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0D558.96E98AA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, I just retrieved our Westy from storage last weekend. It was stored in = an unheated barn here in Nova Scotia. I too had just put a new battery = into it this past Autumn. I also asked the list about three weeks if = there was anything that I should do before starting it, but the best = advice Ireceived was from a friend here in Halifax (with suporting = adivce from Frank Condelli in Almonte). Before I left I threw into our pickup an extra battery, jumper cables = and a few tools I needed for reconnecting the battery. =20 *I checked and wrote down the radio code before leaving the house! When I got there I checked under the engine for leaks. Reconnected the = battery. Then I pulled the middle wire of the distributor cap out. = Turned the engine over for a few seconds. In my mind this helped throw = some oil around without starting the engine. Reconnected the = distributor and then started the engine. Loud and clacky valves at = first, but after about 15 minutes it smoothed out and quieted down. = Drove at a moderate speed all the way home (45 mins or so). No problem. Next winter I am going to pull the battery out and take it home. Near = the end of the winter someone got me worried by saying that it might = have cracked if it froze. Have fun! Dan DJ Landry 86 Westfalia Bedford, Nova Scotia Canada ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Phil Menchions=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 12:30 PM Subject: Spring startup Hi volks: Can somebody provide a few spring startup tips other than the usual = fluid level checks. I tried the archives several times to no avail. My van has been parked all winter with the battery disconnected. It = was a new one installed last spring so it should be still ok. Regards, Phil '89 Westy ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0D558.96E98AA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi,

I just retrieved our Westy from storage = last=20 weekend. It was stored in an unheated barn here in Nova = Scotia. I=20 too had just put a new battery into it this past Autumn. I also = asked the=20 list about three weeks if there was anything that I should do before = starting=20 it, but the best advice Ireceived was from a friend here in Halifax = (with=20 suporting adivce from Frank Condelli in Almonte).

Before I left I threw into our pickup = an extra=20 battery, jumper cables and a few tools I needed for reconnecting the=20 battery.

*I checked and wrote down the radio = code before=20 leaving the house!

When I got there I checked under the = engine for=20 leaks. Reconnected the battery. Then I pulled the middle=20 wire of the distributor cap out. Turned the engine over for a = few=20 seconds. In my mind this helped throw some oil around without = starting the engine. Reconnected the distributor and then started = the=20 engine. Loud and clacky valves at first, but after about 15 = minutes=20 it smoothed out and quieted down. Drove at a moderate speed all = the way=20 home (45 mins or so). No problem.

Next winter I am going to pull the = battery out and=20 take it home. Near the end of the winter someone got me worried by = saying=20 that it might have cracked if it froze.

Have fun!

Dan

DJ Landry

86 Westfalia

Bedford, Nova Scotia

Canada

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Phil=20 Menchions

To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 = 12:30=20 PM

Subject: Spring startup

Hi volks:

Can somebody provide a few spring = startup=20 tips other than the usual fluid level checks. I tried the = archives=20 several times to no avail.

My van has been parked all winter = with the=20 battery disconnected. It was a new one installed last spring so it = should be=20 still ok.

Regards,

Phil

'89 = Westy

------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0D558.96E98AA0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:55:53 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: mark_hb@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't put any additives in my oil or gas. I've been using Penzoil since 1958, I've never lost an engine or had any problems. I run 8 oz of Marvel Mystery oil with my oil for a few days before each oil change to clean lifters and remove gum that builds up inside pistons and crankcases. I use fuel additives only when I suspect water in my fuel. FuFu juice is a really great high profit business most FuFu is used to hide some problem when a seller wants to disguise a problem with an old clunker. You cannot chemically repair any broken or worn parts with FuFu juice. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:47:19 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: ISO Sliding Window Latch Comments: To: hunnam@pnc.com.au MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The little sliding door latch has a screw up through the bottom. You need a little 90 Degree straight slot screwdriver to get at the screw. Be careful when it comes off there is a little spring that will fall out as the lastch comes off dis-assembled. That's it. Stan Wilder 83 Westfalia Air Cooled On Sat, 5 May 2001 20:50:27 +1000 Ray Hunnam writes: > Stephen > > There was a post recently from someone wanting to know how to take > the > sliding window apart. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:03:40 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: Diesel Performance Comments: To: andrew.grebneff@stonebow.otago.ac.nz MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We're going to fine you $2.00 for using those two words in the same sentece. On Sat, 5 May 2001 22:52:16 +1200 Andrew Grebneff writes: > >>Isn't "Diesel Performance" an oxymoron? > >> > Stan Wilder 83 Westfalia Air-cooled ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:05:18 EDT Reply-To: JohnHJhouser@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Houser Subject: Help with Engine Skip MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_2d.b3fe894.282570ae_boundary" --part1_2d.b3fe894.282570ae_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Volks, I am slowly trying to get my early 1984 Westy roadworthy. It has an engine skip that won't go away and after running for about ten minutes, it just quits. After sitting overnight, it will crank up with no problems. It also loses power at about 5 mph in 1st, 20 mph in second, 35 mph in 3d and 49 mph in 4th. Is the second problem a symptom of a bad AFM? I feel like the skip is spark related because, after it dies, I smell gas when I try to crank it. Has anyone had these symptons and what did you do to fix it? TIA, John --part1_2d.b3fe894.282570ae_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Volks,

I am slowly trying to get my early 1984 Westy roadworthy. It has an engine
skip that won't go away and after running for about ten minutes, it just
quits. After sitting overnight, it will crank up with no problems. It also
loses power at about 5 mph in 1st, 20 mph in second, 35 mph in 3d and 49 mph
in 4th. Is the second problem a symptom of a bad AFM?

I feel like the skip is spark related because, after it dies, I smell gas
when I try to crank it. Has anyone had these symptons and what did you do to
fix it?

TIA,
John

--part1_2d.b3fe894.282570ae_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:08:37 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com In-Reply-To: Stan Wilder 's message of Sat, 5 May 2001 09:55:53 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Stan, I just have a question. If in fact you put Marvel in your oil just prior to you changing the oil, why don't you, just run it all the time? You have no idea, of how clean this stuff keeps the inside of your engine. It keeps the rings spinning free, keeps the lifters super-clean. I have used this stuff for years and have found it to be one of the best all round things you can do for your engine. I run it in my gas, when I'm going on a road trip, to lubricate, the valve stems and guides, and it also helps keep the injectors clean. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:12:24 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com In-Reply-To: Stan Wilder 's message of Sat, 5 May 2001 09:55:53 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Stan, Just another thought------- And why only 8 oz's.? I substitute 1 quart of marvel for 1 quart of oil. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:19:07 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Ex Mercedes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Many years ago I purchased a 1956 Mercedes 190SL Convertible. It was a very pretty car and quite expensive compared to the average American made cars at the time. This has to go down as the second worst car I've ever owned (first worst GMC Diesel pickup1980) it seemed to have a hex on it or something. The ring and pinion failed, very rare. The dual carburetors were impossible to tune. It didn't stop very well. It was one of the first with an overhead cam and the valves needed adjusting regularly as the drive chain or the glider shoes on the chain wore. I think you've got the picture. One day I had my girlfriend take me to the dealership to pick up the car and it wasn't ready so I took off walking down the service bay. My girlfriend, walking behind me, noticed the car before I did and she commented "Gee that car must be broke a lot, they have a service stall named Stan". The car was broke a good portion of the time but the mechanic occupying the stall was also named Stan. As luck would have it they were waiting for parts so I didn't get my car that day. That evening my girlfriend and I were at an Exxon station and there was a 190sl Mercedes there in the drive. We were driving my girlfriends Pontiac and while paying for my gas at the cashiers counter my girlfriend commented that there was Mercedes in the drive. The man standing behind us started talking and was just beaming with pride saying, "that's a Mercedes 190sl, it's quite a car, I just love, and it's really fun to drive and Yada Yada so forth" I turned and said "really?" He said "yes" I said "I always wondered what mine would look like, hardly ever seen it with the hood closed". ---------------------------------------- One sunny afternoon my brother and I were riding around in the 190SL with no particular destination in mind and I turned onto a nice winding road to take some corners. My brother noticed a Triumph TR4 in front of us about two hundred yards away. There was a blond and a brunette in the car and being young men we weren't going to be satisfied until we got a better look at the women in that sports car and sports car owners were generally friendly people. We put on the chase but the Triumph was really hard to catch, they apparently were enjoying the mild joy of making some corners too. In the few minutes devoted to the case my brother mentioned that he'd take the brunette driving and I could have the blond. My heart racing and my Mercedes straining we raced to catch up to the Triumph after they turned back on to a heavily traveled boulevard. We caught up with them at about the third red light and my blond turned out to be a Russian wolfhound with long blond hair. ------------------------------ Another sunny afternoon my brother and I were cruising the exclusive part of Dallas called Highland Park. As we were almost always exceeding the speed limits there were often times when we would only catch a glimpse of events around us. On this particular day I noticed something lying next to the curb and commented that it looked like someone had lost a fur coat. Were we going pretty fast so rather than stopping and backing up we just made the block and came back around to the same spot. My brother was driving and he geared the transmission down so we were going about eight to ten miles an hour in second gear, I leaned out of the car as far as I could and grabbed the fur as we passed. Well folks that wasn't a fur coat, it was a big black chow dog and boy I got to tell you he was some mad a being dragged from his sleeping place next to the curb, not to mention that I was holding a hand full of his fur in my hand. I'm yelling at my brother to speed up and he's not responding fast enough for me, I deliver the message that the fur was a badass chow dog and he's trying to come into the car with us. He was pushing throttle, changing gears and laughing and after the better part of a long block the chow dog just gave it up! Stan Wilder 83Westfalia Air Cooled ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 08:18:04 -0700 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Re: oil pressure story in full: costs, thoughts, gripes, etc. (quite long) Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I'm going to be a wilderness ranger in the E. Sierras this summer, and when I'm not in the woods, I'll be living out of my vanagon. Afterwards, once I return to disease-covered puget sound, I'm going to sell the vanagon. Because I'm tired of being hexed with it. Thanks for the reply. B >From: wilden1@juno.com >To: rangerbrian@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: oil pressure story in full: costs, thoughts, gripes, etc. >(quite long) >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 23:13:01 -0500 > >Many years ago I purchased a 1956 Mercedes 190SL Convertible. > >It was a very pretty car and quite expensive compared to the average >American made cars at the time. > >This has to go down as the second worst car I've ever owned (first worst >GMC Diesel pickup1980) it seemed to have a hex on it or something. The >ring and pinion failed, very rare. The dual carburetors were impossible >to tune. It didn't stop very well. It was one of the first with an >overhead cam and the valves needed adjusting regularly as the drive chain >or the glider shoes on the chain wore. > >I think you've got the picture. > >One day I had my girlfriend take me to the dealership to pick up the car >and it wasn't ready so I took off walking down the service bay. My >girlfriend, walking behind me, noticed the car before I did and she >commented "Gee that car must be broke a lot, they have a service stall >named Stan". > >The car was broke a good portion of the time but the mechanic occupying >the stall was also named Stan. > >As luck would have it they were waiting for parts so I didn't get my car >that day. > >That evening my girlfriend and I were at an Exxon station and there was a >190sl Mercedes there in the drive. > >We were driving my girlfriends Pontiac and while paying for my gas at the >cashiers counter my girlfriend commented that there was Mercedes in the >drive. > >The man standing behind us started talking and was just beaming with >pride saying, "that's a Mercedes 190sl, it's quite a car, I just love, >and it's really fun to drive and Yada Yada so forth" > >I turned and said "really?" > >He said "yes" > >I said "I always wondered what mine would look like, hardly ever seen it >with the hood closed". > >Stan Wilder >83Westfalia Air Cooled _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:49:04 -0400 Reply-To: Jim Henry Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Henry Organization: JCH GIS Subject: diesel performance? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I find the current thread on diesel performance very timely, in as much as I am considering buying a diesel camper on the west coast while there on a trip this summer. The person that has volunteered to inspect it for me, also was somewhat discouraging about the ability of a diesel to move from place to place in a reasonable manner, especially long distances in the West . My idea is to buy the van, go to my daughter's in southwest Oregon, visit my brother in Montana, and bonsai back to NC, hopefully not leaving a VW camper somewhere in between. Pretty hare brain, huh. So the point is, is there anyone in the Raleigh/Durham, central NC, Charlotte, NC area with a standard 1.6 diesel that would let me ride and perhaps drive it before I spend any more energy on this hare brained idea. That's right, I have never ridden or driven a diesel vanagon and I am thinking about buying one. Well I had never driven or ridden in a vanagon, period or even seen the one that I currently own, before I bought it. But it was a deal you could not let go by. Sort of like the guy who saw the add in the paper for the Porsche for $50.... So NC diesel owners, burst my bubble or keep me dreaming. Any other comments would be appreciated. Jim -- Jim and Lois Henry Durham, NC www.jchgis.com (Jim) dull work stuff www.foxcarving.com (Lois) really neat stuff 84 GSL-SE 85 GSL-SE (parts car) 84 Vanagon Westfalia camper 95 Oldsmobile Aurora 93 Geo Prism 87 RX7 na jch@jchgis.com lkhenry@vnet.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 08:24:01 -0700 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Re: oil pressure story in full: costs, thoughts, gripes, etc. (quite long) Comments: To: zol@foxinternet.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed No, I'm not sure what the problem was or IS...... All I'm saying is that after rod bearings, relief valve, tune-up, heads, workworkwork, I'm not getting the oil light now. I DID get the oil light after replacing the relief valve and spring, so that didn't do anything as far as I'm concerned. My thoughts deep down is that the mains are worn, but they're hanging in there with all the new parts. But who knows???? When my engine is cool, it's happy. I think the cat will help that out. Brian >From: "Zoltan" >To: "Brian Cochran" >Subject: Re: oil pressure story in full: costs, thoughts, gripes, > etc. (quite long) >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 22:14:41 -0700 > >Brian, >are you saying that the problem all along was the oil pressure relief >valve? >Zoltan >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brian Cochran" >To: >Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 5:41 PM >Subject: oil pressure story in full: costs, thoughts, gripes, etc. (quite >long) > > > > Oil Pressure Woes and how they over-ran my life this winter. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:32:47 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One aspirin a day is good for you. Two is too many. Why dilute your oil from 10w/30 to something less. On Sat, 5 May 2001 10:12:24 -0500 (CDT) CTONLINE@webtv.net writes: > Stan, > Just another thought------- > > And why only 8 oz's.? > > I substitute 1 quart of marvel for 1 quart of oil. > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | > ||-(())----(())-| > > > Terry > 74 Westy (Clementine) > 85 GL > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:30:29 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fairly simple question, it all comes out to cost exactly the same. I've got exactly the idea after doing this for 40 years. 71 MG Midget 204K 83 Cadillac 276K 83 Westfalia Air cooled 256K There have also been ten to fifteen other vehicles in my garage over the years not excluding bunches of motorcycles, boats. A fleet of trucks, i really can't relate on the miles but never an engine failure since 1962. Only 1 engine replacement in 1969 1 1/2 truck in 1992 but not a failure just worn out. On Sat, 5 May 2001 10:08:37 -0500 (CDT) CTONLINE@webtv.net writes: > Stan, > I just have a question. > If in fact you put Marvel in your oil just prior to you changing the > oil, why don't you, just run it all the time? ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:37:53 -0400 Reply-To: Derek Drew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Derek Drew Subject: CV Joint Protectors MAJOR SYNCRO POST Comments: To: Syncro@onelist.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed There has been some discussion on the list lately about the quality of aftermarket vs. factory-original front CV Joint boot protectors. In this email I will clear up some confusion, provide some analysis of which one to get, and also provide list members with the least expensive method of purchasing either type of protector. I will also discuss the European belt guards, and some other parts further down in this email. A photo comparing the factory original and aftermarket CV Boot protectors is also provided. As our more attentive syncro owners know by now, the factory introduced the CV Joint boot protector into production in January of 1990 in order to protect the front CV joint boots from rocks, sticks and other road and off-road hazards. The goal is worthy because the front CV Joint boots are very exposed, and I have on many occasions before wondered what could be done to better protect these boots from puncture and tearing. Volkswagen/SDP began installing the protectors as a regular feature of the vehicle in all 16" syncros and the 14" syncros with "heavy duty running gear" so clearly the factory saw a need for them. As far as I know, none of the heavy duty vehicles were sold in North America and so and none of our North American vans had the protectors. In fact, none of us knew much about the CV Joint Boot protectors until about two years ago after Phil Lander started writing about them. Steve Schwenk picked up the thread and there were some excellent initial postings about these last Fall. More information about these CV joint protectors is on this page of Phil Landers's http://www.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/CV_Boot_Protectors.htm and the factory instructions for fitting them are at http://www.ozemail.com.au/~pjlander/images/instruct.jpg. I have received many emails from European Syncro owners asking whether we have them here in the USA and are we aware of them. They make so much sense and cost relatively little, that they are becoming something of a rage among syncro owners. Unfortunately, if you go to a VW dealer in North America and try to order a set, you are going to get a "part not found" response and a pat on the back as you walk out the door. So until recently, we have been out of luck if we wanted to add one. Some enterprising soul in Europe has now begun self manufacturing these CV Joint protectors, and these non-factory versions are similar. You can see a picture of the difference between the OEM flap and the aftermarket flap that I took here: http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/CV_Joint_Protectors_Factory_And_Aftermarket.jpg If you look closely at the picture, you will see the factory flap on the right, and the aftermarket flap on the left. The points that are noticeable from studying these flaps are that the factory flap has slightly thicker metal that seems more robust, although not by a large margin. The factory flap has smooth rounded metal edges instead of the aftermarket edges which look like they were cut sharply out of a sheet. The factory flap material is more flexible and supple, whereas the aftermarket flap appears to be made from hard rubber cut out of a rubber sheet with an exacto knife or heavy shears. Visually, the factory flap material is much more appealing. Because of the metal thickness issue and the hardness of the flap material which gives the protector less give, I had the impression that under stress the aftermarket protector might have a greater tendency to bend or break but this is only conjecture at this point. Which protector would a better buy? It is a close call. After thinking about it and comparing the prices ($160 vs. $130 delivered--see below), I will be installing the factory original protector myself. But I think the case is not clear cut, and the aftermarket protector is also a reasonable choice for price-conscious purchasers. FACTORY PROTECTOR PRICES Recently (about four weeks ago), a list member offered to supply factory CV joint protectors to us for $250 for the set and another list member is rumored to be selling them for $300 for a set. The best price that is likely to be available for factory protectors at this point for us is about $190 or so, including the shipping expenses from Europe. It was nice to hear that they could at least still be had as there have been supply problems with Europe. That is, people would order them at the VAG dealer in Europe, and then they would not come for extended periods. I ordered an initial set, and there was a four month delay between the arrival of the right side and the left side, for example. More recently, there has been a price increase in Europe so they are getting more expensive. Meanwhile, as some list members are aware, I have developed connections to non-standard sources of syncro parts in Europe. I am able to arrange a list purchase of the factory original protectors at a price of $160 per pair, including all shipping expense, customs duty, and shipping to you within the USA or Canada. This is by far the cheapest price you are likely to be able to find. AFTERMARKET PROTECTOR PRICES The aftermarket protectors are available from FLO for a price of $95 plus $45 shipping, according to an email we received from FLO yesterday, which would make the total about $140. Meanwhile, I have three sets of the aftermarket protectors for sale, including local shipping to you in North America, for a price of $130 for each set. The lower price is because I ordered several sets at the same time, and there is a corresponding reduction in the shipping expense. This should be, therefore, close to the lowest price at which you can obtain the aftermarket CV Joint protector. PRICE ANALYSIS OF THE CHOICE Given the small difference in price between $160 and $130 I'd lean toward getting the factory protector. But I think spending $130 on the aftermarket protector is also reasonable. Supply issues may make the choice for some, as the supply of the aftermarket protectors is more immediate, at least from me. If you are in a hurry, and you want only the factory protector, and cannot wait to have it, try David Marshall at www.fastforward.ca as he tends to import things like this for his store but you will need to get a separate price him him. SUPPLY TIMING ESTIMATE TO GET THEM FROM ME 1st three aftermarket protectors: immediate additional aftermarket protectors: 5 weeks 1st six factory original protectors: 5 weeks additional factory original protectors: 3 months Payment can be by www.paypal.com to derekdrew@rcn.com or via personal check to Derek Drew, 5467 31st Street NW, Washington, DC 20015. If you would like, you can ask me for a timing estimate before sending funds. If you would like to obtain the protectors at these prices ($130 or $160), simply send me payment either by paypal or by mail, and if you like, you can print out this email and send it along. ANSWER TO AN INSTALLATION ISSUE (Front Axle Nuts) Bill Davidson asked the list about the issue of the front axle nut for syncro. Thus nut is an "always replace" nut in the manual, which means that every time you take it off (which you do to install the CV Joint boot protector, Bill says) you are supposed to throw it out and put on a brand new. This can get expensive for syncro owners because the price of the nut at the dealer is about $8. When replacing this nut, it pays to be careful because most aftermarket replacements are only 1/2 the thickness and do not inspire confidence. I would personally not install many of the the aftermarket nuts that come with front outer cv joint boot kits you get from Parts Place ($50) or Bus Depot ($17!!) (same kit from what I could see last time I looked a few years ago). that is, I take a skeptical view of the tiny LOBRO nut that is typically supplied for the front axle, and recommend that Syncro owners use either a factory nut ($8ish each) or order a pile of them from Mr. Metric (1-408-286-8816) as I did ($2.25 each). The Mr. Metric part number is 50416, 20 x 1.5 Allmetal w/collar vendor code 1006, Lot number 507004 from Bossard DIN 980v BN6867. Mr. Metric said I had to order 50 but they only sent me 20. Most professional mechanics on the list, by the way, don't have time or inclination to be replacing "always replace" items in the manual, and will tell you that they simply re-use the nuts and use loctite on them. The nuts are "always replace" because they are slightly crushed to have a locking action. I am going to use my $2.25 Mr. Metric nuts for awhile since I have them. Later, if I become more of a professional, perhaps I will begin reusing nuts the factory says not to reuse. ============================== END CV JOINT PROTECTOR SECTION ============================== VISCOUS COUPLINGS For those of you who have been waiting for the next round of viscous couplings, they are due in a few weeks time. I will make an announcement at that time. I have been looking at the weights that have been installed on these. All the VCs have weights welded on the side to assure a perfect balance and it strikes me that this has more importance than we have previously notified, going by the great lengths the factory seems to have gone to get it right. There are somewhere around 20 different weights, and they are welded at precise locations. BELT GUARDS I have also managed to import some of the so-called European-Only "Belt Guards" that were manufactured by VW as extra protection for the belts in the engine compartment from rocks getting wedged up in there. For some reason, they introduced these belt guards in Europe but never seem to have got around to putting them into production for North American Spec vehicles. I put a picture of the belt guards up on the web here: http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/beltguards1.jpg and http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/beltguards2.jpg. The cost to get a set of the Belt Guards from me (including postage within North America) is $23. These are available elsewhere on the list for $50, according to a quotation I received from another list member offering to sell them for that amount. If ordering with another part, such a the CV Joint protectors, deduct $8 for packing and shipping. The purpose of both the Belt Guards and the CV joint boot protectors is to decrease the probability your vehicle will need mechanical attention while you are on a long trip by reducing the probability of rock, stick, or abrasion damage coming up from underneath. 16" REAR TRAILING ARMS To participants in the purchase of 16" rear trailing arms: these are now all in the mail. There is one extra set available to whomever wants it from this purchase that is available so if you think you want one of these, send me an email. The price is $1,250 plus local postage (another vendor on the list quoted me $1,750). They enable mounting of very large tires. There is a picture of them here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels,%20Tires%20&%20Gearing/Wheel%20&%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_Arm.jpg At this time I believe I am the best source for the following syncro factory parts: Belt Guards -- $23 http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/beltguards1.jpg , http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/beltguards2.jpg CV Joint Boot Guards -- OEM $160 or aftermarket $130 http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/CV_Joint_Protectors_Factory_And_Aftermarket.jpg Viscous Couplings -- Email me for an information package 16" Rear Trailing Arms --$1,250 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels,%20Tires%20&%20Gearing/Wheel%20&%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_Arm.jpg 6.17 and 5.83 Ring & Pinions -- http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/ringandpinions1.jpg or check with www.2weddle.com on this. Many European-only factory-OEM-only parts -- email me the part number for a quotation. I speak your language and won't send you aftermarket parts without telling you. :-) The contents of this email, or suitable sub-sections of it by permission, may be reproduced and posted to other syncro and vanagon related websites. The photo of the difference between the two CV joint protectors may also be so posted, provided the photo is accompanied by the text. ________________________________________________________ Derek Drew New York, NY & Washington, DC derekdrew@rcn.com 212-580-6486 Email me for viscous couplings '90 Syncro Westfalia... ...seen off-road at http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/Syncro_Madness_Area.htm Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) are: http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=vanagon ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro http://www.vanagon.com http://www.syncro.org My refrigerator article: http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/Refrigerator/Reefer_Madness.htm My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies: ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/auto-insurance-madness.html To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/fitbigtiresonvanagon.htm To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/syncrotireandgearratios.xls To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels%2C%20Tires%20%26%20Gearing/Wheel%20%26%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_Arm.jpg ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:50:12 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: gripes, etc. Comments: To: rangerbrian@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Start advertizing it now. Families less wise than you are looking for them. National parks are getting into full swing and the birds are singing. I think it's based on the greater fool thoery like the stock market "some fool will always pay more than you did". Try to make a few bucks! By the way. I'd never own one of these things as a single mode of transportation. My has never left me stranded but old equipment should be a hobby, not a mainstay. On Sat, 05 May 2001 08:31:19 -0700 "Brian Cochran" writes: > Hey thanks for the feedback! those are neat rigs (the pic), but 10 > mpg....NO WAY. Mark my words, gas is going to keep increasing to > level out > with those euro prices. when I get out of the vanagon business, > I'm > getting a diesel jetta - 49 mpg. > B > > >From: wilden1@juno.com > >To: rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM > >CC: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > >Subject: Re: oil pressure story in full: costs, thoughts, gripes, > etc. > >(quite long) > >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:10:00 -0500 > > > >I must admit Brian Cochran, thats a heart wrenching story and > you're a > >pretty good writer. > > > >I have an 83 Aircooled Westfalia and I visit a lot of auto wrecking > yards > >throughout my travels. I find really great looking water-cooled > Vanagons > >sitting in these yards that look like you could just get in them > and > >drive off. Most come in nearly complete with the engine partially > >dis-assembled and sitting in the rear deck I find the heads and a > bunch > >of coolant lines. It is aparrent that the owners of these vans were > >caring owners because they have nice paint and interiors and > sometimes > >almost new tires. > > > >I also have an 86 Oldsmobile, this is a true $700.00 car and I'd > scrap it > >if it cost $700.00 to repair. > > > >But I'm also the victom of the vehicle with my 83 Westfalia, I paid > >$2000.00 for it seven years ago and spend $1800.00 on parts within > 90 > >days. It's been charging on ever since with very little maintenance > >required. The nature of the Westfalia and my interest in camping > and > >nature prompted me to spend those bucks. I just plain like the > Westfalia. > > > >Here's hoping you'll enjoy many years of pleasant experiences with > your > >Westfalia. > > > >Stan Wilder > >83 Westfalia AirCooled > >For a quick look > http://williamwareagency.com/forsale/stanvan/stanvan.htm > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:47:39 -0300 Reply-To: 86 Westfalia Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: 86 Westfalia Subject: Re: Waving (Was: Van reactions) Comments: To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Speaking of which, Last night we were parked at a club in a restricted parking lot in downtown Halifax while we were out with a group of friends. When we returned to our Westy to go home, there was a Transporter parked right beside us - the rest of the lot was empty! It was neat, because I have never seen a transporter in North America before, let alone anywhere in the Maritimes. Cheers, Dan PS: My wife swears she heard a whispering conversation in German just before we walked up right beside the two vehicles........... 86 Westafalia Bedford, Nova Scotia Canada ----- Original Message ----- From: Benjamin Tan To: Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:18 PM Subject: Re: Waving (Was: Van reactions) > If we waved around here, we'd be waving all day long. There are just too many > VW busses. > > There used to be a lot of waving years ago. Nowadays, they think something is > wrong when you do. > > There is one thing that Vanagon and bus people have a tendency to do here. > They love parking next to other busses. They may not necessarily talk to you > even when you're in the vehicle. However, they will usually take the spot > next to you even if the parking lot is relatively empty. > > Must be a regional thing. > > BenT > San Francisco > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 08:53:34 -0700 Reply-To: harald_nancy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: harald_nancy Subject: Intermittent Vanagon syndrome fix MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C0D540.DE2EB4C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C0D540.DE2EB4C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If anyone wants to see some photos and=20 description where I soldered the capacitor to cure the intermittent problem that my westie developed awhile back, go to=20 http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/ and click on Intermittent syndrome I installed the cap inside the air flow meter. Harald '90 westy ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C0D540.DE2EB4C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If anyone wants to see some photos and=20
description where I soldered the capacitor
to cure the = intermittent=20 problem that my
westie developed awhile back, go to
http://www.geocities.com/= harald_nancy/
and=20 click on Intermittent syndrome
I installed the cap inside the air = flow=20 meter.

Harald
'90 = westy

------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01C0D540.DE2EB4C0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:23:21 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Fix A Flat MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is fix a flat any good or does it mess up your Subject: Viagra Ingredients They finally released the ingredients in Viagra: 3% Vitamin E 2% Aspirin 2% Ibuprofen 1% Vitamin C 92% Fix-A-Flat ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:24:10 EDT Reply-To: JohnHJhouser@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Houser Subject: Fuel Pump MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_e0.1427f24c.2825913a_boundary" --part1_e0.1427f24c.2825913a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Volks, I'm slowly trying to get an early 84 Westy roadworthy, I recently installed a new muffler and now I can hear the fuel pump while I'm driving. Is this normal or is it a sign that the fuel pump is about to fail? TIA, John --part1_e0.1427f24c.2825913a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Volks,

I'm slowly trying to get an early 84 Westy roadworthy, I recently installed
a new muffler and now I can hear the fuel pump while I'm driving. Is this
normal or is it a sign that the fuel pump is about to fail?

TIA,
John --part1_e0.1427f24c.2825913a_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:25:02 EDT Reply-To: Awf986@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "John \"Shaggy\" Donovan" Subject: I-5 vw transplant Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit will a 87 quantom 5 cylinder engine blot up to a diesel bellhousing? one of my customers just wrecked their cars and I could put this in my 87'GL insead of the 1.8 that I was going to. also would this engine bolt right up to the diesel sidebars. Shaggy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:53:01 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Comments: To: JohnHJhouser@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Boy you have good ears. Hook a jumper up on the fuelpump and run a tube from the pump discharge side to a gallon can and run the pump. Squeez the bubber hose down with a pair of pliers if it gets noisy it's probably going bad. If it stays just humming it's ok. It wouldn't be a bad Idea to test the preaure while you've got that jumper and test hose on it. Stan Wilder 83 Westfalia Air Cooled On Sat, 5 May 2001 13:24:10 EDT John Houser writes: > Volks, > > I'm slowly trying to get an early 84 Westy roadworthy, I recently > installed > a new muffler and now I can hear the fuel pump while I'm driving. > Is this > normal or is it a sign that the fuel pump is about to fail? > > TIA, > John ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:12:32 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: Fix A Flat Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I drive a Vanagra (copyright 2001). >From: Stan Wilder >Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Fix A Flat >Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:23:21 -0500 > >Is fix a flat any good or does it mess up your > > Subject: Viagra Ingredients > > They finally released the ingredients in Viagra: > > 3% Vitamin E > 2% Aspirin > 2% Ibuprofen > 1% Vitamin C > 92% Fix-A-Flat _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:16:39 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Okay, but how many miles did you log on these suckers? And whats the worlds record for most miles on a car and/or engine. I've taken one up to 500,000. (the car not the engine). Has anyone car/engine ever gone 1,000,000 miles? >From: Stan Wilder >Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: synergy? >Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:30:29 -0500 > >Fairly simple question, it all comes out to cost exactly the same. > >I've got exactly the idea after doing this for 40 years. >71 MG Midget 204K >83 Cadillac 276K >83 Westfalia Air cooled 256K >There have also been ten to fifteen other vehicles in my garage over the >years not excluding bunches of motorcycles, boats. >A fleet of trucks, i really can't relate on the miles but never an engine >failure since 1962. Only 1 engine replacement in 1969 1 1/2 truck in 1992 >but not a failure just worn out. > >On Sat, 5 May 2001 10:08:37 -0500 (CDT) CTONLINE@webtv.net writes: > > Stan, > > I just have a question. > > If in fact you put Marvel in your oil just prior to you changing the > > oil, why don't you, just run it all the time? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:19:02 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Sorry to spoil the analogy, but all aspirin is bad for you. The side effects are still there. Better to take fish oil, and in my experience Nordic Naturals is the best fish oil, I've gone through bottles of it without ever one of those nasty repeats. >From: Stan Wilder >Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: synergy? >Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:32:47 -0500 > >One aspirin a day is good for you. Two is too many. Why dilute your oil >from 10w/30 to something less. > >On Sat, 5 May 2001 10:12:24 -0500 (CDT) CTONLINE@webtv.net writes: > > Stan, > > Just another thought------- > > > > And why only 8 oz's.? > > > > I substitute 1 quart of marvel for 1 quart of oil. > > > > ______________ > > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > > | | | | > > ||-(())----(())-| > > > > > > Terry > > 74 Westy (Clementine) > > 85 GL > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:21:16 EDT Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Benjamin Tan Subject: Re: CV Joint Protectors MAJOR SYNCRO POST Comments: To: derekdrew@rcn.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Derek, Have you heard anyone else in the US having the 16" package? My 16" Doka is an 89. Now I know why they didn't come with the CV boot guards. I was getting annoyed with my European contact at one point because I thought he removed it. Ben San Francisco Vanagon Cafe ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:30:32 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: mark_hb@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Miles.......... Every trucker in the world. > (the car not the engine). Has anyone car/engine ever gone 1,000,000 > miles? ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:38:13 -0500 Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: mark_hb@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A few drops of Nordic Naturals fish oil is good for you, a whole bottle will give you diahrrea. (how's the spelling?) Why dilute your Sh........ from 120 w/90 to 5 to10 Yeah! That's a lot better statement. On Sat, 05 May 2001 12:19:02 -0700 "Mark Dorm" writes: > Sorry to spoil the analogy, but all aspirin is bad for you. The side > effects > are still there. Better to take fish oil, and in my experience > Nordic > Naturals is the best fish oil, I've gone through bottles of it > without ever > one of those nasty repeats. > > > > >One aspirin a day is good for you. Two is too many. Why dilute your > oil > >from 10w/30 to something less. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:36:39 EDT Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Benjamin Tan Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: mark_hb@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My 1965 Bug had over 500K miles on the original engine when I sold it in 1978. I saw the owner last summer. It's still chugging away today. I forgot to look at the mileage. The guy relegiously changes his oil every 1200 miles. I think I changed it once a year when I owned it. = ) Ben ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:38:29 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Temp II Sensor Querry.... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Can I check my temp sensor (the one that feeds into the temp guage on/in the dash) for its color code with draining out the coolant? I want to check what the mechanic put in, I had both temp II's replaced, along with the therm. housing. My engine is running a bit hotter now, so either (A) the temp II sensor that feeds the gas gauge is the wrong one, (B) they replaced the thermostat without my consent (I had a cooler one in there, by about 5 degrees), or (C) my radiator is compromised by a leak that is only vapor escaping along the passenger side front edge of the radiator (I'm not currently seeing fluid seep out but do see some evidence of corrosion). _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 12:52:57 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Heavy red wire in engine compartment '88. I didn't pull the engine, but I've almost got it back in. There are two heavy red wires in the engine compartment. One goes to the alternator. Where does the other one go? I know when I hear the answer to this, I'm gonna smack myself upside the head, but I could use the info. Thanks, Karl Wolz ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:14:17 -0500 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: ATF Level too high - what now? Comments: To: Chris Knust MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Chris Knust wrote: > Hi, > > I just found out that the ATF level of my 87 Westy�s automatic > tranny is too high. According to Bentley�s (37.9a) I am supposed to > check the final drive�s oil level now - however it does not say how to > do that. In the absence of a dipstick for the final drive I rely on you > folks to tell me! What do I have to do? > > (2) In case I find the oil level of the final drive being too low, Bentley > mentions the cause as a broken seal between final drive and > tranny. Is there only the one seal shown on p. 37.10 which is > accessible with tranny and final drive installed or is there another > seal which can be the cause as well? > > (3) Is it possible to replace the seal of the tranny�s bottom plate > (don�t know the correct english term for that, sorry) with the tranny > and final drive installed? How do I drain the ATF Level partly to run > proper checks after having checked the final drive�s oil level and > how do I drain it completely to replace that seal (which seems to > be a bit wet, but I will need to run some tests with a cleaned-up > engine first and do not want to do that with a ATF level being too > high, as Bentley warns not to run the tranny with too much ATF. > > (4) Finally - do I check the ATF level with the selector level in P or > in N? Manual and Bentley both say "P", however the picture shown > by Bentley on page 37.9 with the dipstick and the affixed label > clearly shows that the label says "N". > > Thanks for your help! The archive server does not want to respond > to my questions :-( > > Cheers > Chris > Troy, MI Chris: You check the level of the oil in the final drive by removing the plug in the side and poking your little finger in there to see if you can feel the oil. To get the plug out you will have to buy or improvise a hex driver ( 17 mm I think). I took a bolt with a 17 mm head and welded the other end into an extra socket. I don't think that you can fix the seal between the trans and the final drive while they are in the car. You can remove the bottom pan from the trans while it is installed so that you can replace the gasket. If it is leaking, first check that all the bolts are reasonably tight. If you just need to remove a little fluid from the trans, the easiest way is probably to suck it out thru a hose inserted in the fill/check tube. It probably doesn't matter whether you check the fluid level while it is in Park or Drive; I seem to get the same result either way. Warm it up reasonably well and have it level and idling. The typical way to drain the fluid is to disconnect the filler tube at the trans. This involves a large open-end or adjustable wrench (be sure it fits tightly). You may have to pound on the end of the wrench and say a few bad words. If you drop the pan to change the gasket, clean the screen and of course the sludge out of the pan. Leave no lint. It can plug small passages in the governor. (Don't ask) Good luck, Larry A., Chicago ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:36:42 -0500 Reply-To: Dan Eggert Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Eggert Subject: Brake lights went out MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0D579.2F2CD400" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0D579.2F2CD400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Everyone, Yesturday, when I was fixing a tail light problem, another one popped = up. The left side was out except for the blinkers. We were able to fix = that easily, it turned out that the connector behind the fuse panel came = loose. Now the brake lights do not want to work on either side. I have = checked the fuse, changed the bulbs, and checked and cleaned any = connections that I could find with no luck. Any suggestions? We took = the fuse panel off and my friend who did not know how to use the tester = we had, ended up blowing a fuse. That is all fixed now, but other than = that, we did not do anything that I can think of to cause the lights to = go out. Could it be possible that we shorted out a switch while not = knowing how to test things? I'm clueless and stuck with a van that I = can't drive because people arn't going to see if I am braking. Any = ideas would be great. Thanks=20 Dan (Eggz) Eggert ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0D579.2F2CD400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Everyone,

Yesturday, when I was fixing a tail = light problem,=20 another one popped up. The left side was out except for the=20 blinkers. We were able to fix that easily, it turned out that the=20 connector behind the fuse panel came loose. Now the brake lights = do not=20 want to work on either side. I have checked the fuse, changed the = bulbs,=20 and checked and cleaned any connections that I could find with no = luck. =20 Any suggestions? We took the fuse panel off and my friend who did = not know=20 how to use the tester we had, ended up blowing a fuse. That is all = fixed=20 now, but other than that, we did not do anything that I can think of to = cause=20 the lights to go out. Could it be possible that we shorted out a = switch=20 while not knowing how to test things? I'm clueless and stuck with = a van=20 that I can't drive because people arn't going to see if I am = braking. Any=20 ideas would be great.

Thanks

Dan (Eggz) = Eggert

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C0D579.2F2CD400-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:55:30 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

It won't give you diahrrea (good enough), it'll improve your vision. When I can afford it, I'm going to take a bottle a day for days on end.

>From: Stan Wilder

>Reply-To: wilden1@juno.com

>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

>Subject: Re: synergy?

>Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:38:13 -0500

> A few drops of Nordic Naturals fish oil is good for you, a whole bottle

>will give you diahrrea. (how's the spelling?)

>Why dilute your Sh........ from 120 w/90 to 5 to10

>Yeah! That's a lot better statement.

>On Sat, 05 May 2001 12:19:02 -0700 "Mark Dorm"

>writes:

> > Sorry to spoil the analogy, but all aspirin is bad for you. The side

> > effects

> > are still there. Better to take fish oil, and in my experience

> > Nordic

> > Naturals is the best fish oil, I've gone through bottles of it

> > without ever

> > one of those nasty repeats.

> >

> > >

> > >One aspirin a day is good for you. Two is too many. Why dilute your

> > oil

> > >from 10w/30 to something less.

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========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:00:04 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: ATF Level too high - what now? Comments: To: lalofs@enteract.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

speaking of ATF, when I drain my Automatic Transmission, how much will come out (I know it won't drain completely without turning the vanagon upside down [this would make working on cars so much easier, why don't they do this?]. I'm going to put redline DF ATF in it (this is the replacement for Dexron III, redlines other ATFs are for Dexron II, or for towing vehicles or motorhomes [their High Temp, they offer a total of 3 ATF's]).

>From: Larry Alofs

>Reply-To: Larry Alofs

>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

>Subject: Re: ATF Level too high - what now?

>Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:14:17 -0500

>Chris Knust wrote:

> > Hi,

> >

> > I just found out that the ATF level of my 87 Westy�s automatic

> > tranny is too high. According to Bentley�s (37.9a) I am supposed to

> > check the final drive�s oil level now - however it does not say how to

> > do that. In the absence of a dipstick for the final drive I rely on you

> > folks to tell me! What do I have to do?

> >

> > (2) In case I find the oil level of the final drive being too low, Bentley

> > mentions the cause as a broken seal between final drive and

> > tranny. Is there only the one seal shown on p. 37.10 which is

> > accessible with tranny and final drive installed or is there another

> > seal which can be the cause as well?

> >

> > (3) Is it possible to replace the seal of the tranny�s bottom plate

> > (don�t know the correct english term for that, sorry) with the tranny

> > and final drive installed? How do I drain the ATF Level partly to run

> > proper checks after having checked the final drive�s oil level and

> > how do I drain it completely to replace that seal (which seems to

> > be a bit wet, but I will need to run some tests with a cleaned-up

> > engine first and do not want to do that with a ATF level being too

> > high, as Bentley warns not to run the tranny with too much ATF.

> >

> > (4) Finally - do I check the ATF level with the selector level in P or

> > in N? Manual and Bentley both say "P", however the picture shown

> > by Bentley on page 37.9 with the dipstick and the affixed label

> > clearly shows that the label says "N".

> >

> > Thanks for your help! The archive server does not want to respond

> > to my questions :-(

> >

> > Cheers

> > Chris

> > Troy, MI

>Chris:

> You check the level of the oil in the final drive by removing the plug in the

>side and poking your little finger in there to see if you can feel the oil.

>To get the plug out you will have to buy or improvise a hex driver ( 17 mm I

>think). I took a bolt with a 17 mm head and welded the other end into an

>extra socket.

> I don't think that you can fix the seal between the trans and the final drive

>while they are in the car.

> You can remove the bottom pan from the trans while it is installed so

>that you can replace the gasket. If it is leaking, first check that all the

>bolts are reasonably tight.

> If you just need to remove a little fluid from the trans, the easiest way

>is probably to suck it out thru a hose inserted in the fill/check tube. It

>probably doesn't matter whether you check the fluid level while it is in Park

>or Drive; I seem to get the same result either way. Warm it up reasonably

>well and have it level and idling.

> The typical way to drain the fluid is to disconnect the filler tube at the

>trans. This involves a large open-end or adjustable wrench (be sure it fits

>tightly). You may have to pound on the end of the wrench and say a few bad

>words.

> If you drop the pan to change the gasket, clean the screen and of course the

>sludge out of the pan. Leave no lint. It can plug small passages in the

>governor. (Don't ask)

>Good luck,

>Larry A., Chicago

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========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:32:07 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: synergy? Comments: To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

This email made me think of something. In consumer reports they did a thing on oil in new york taxis and their conclusion was that as long as the oil used was modern oil with that symbol that comes on modern oils (and I've never seen this symbol on 20 50 weighted oil) then changing every 6000 was perfectly fine. They took these engines apart before and after and took measurements. However, in the case of high or extra high mileage engines with greater micro or nano scopic wear, changing your oil more often like every 1200 miles may go a long way towards increasing the lifespan of the engine. True or Not True? What are the votes? And I am talking about as a preventative action, before the thing is blowing black smoke out of the tailpipe. Thinking is guidelines of something like

First 75,000 miles change oil every 5000 (true 6000 may be safe, but this is insurance against being late or forgetful)

75,000 miles to 150,000 miles change oil every 3000 miles

150,000 to 225,000 miles change oil every 2,200 miles

225,000 to 300,000 miles change oil every 1,800 miles

300,000 to 500,000 miles change oil every 1,600 miles

500,000 to 1,000,000 miles change oil every 1,200 miles

1,000,000 to 2,000,000 miles change oil every 800 miles

2,000,000 to 3,000,000 miles change oil every 400 miles

3,000,000 to 4,000,000 miles change oil every 10 miles

4,000,000 to 5,000,000 miles change oil every 1 mile

5,000,000 to 10,000,000 miles change oil every 1/4 mile

10,000,000 to 100,000,000 miles change oil every 1/32 mile

At 100,000,000 miles all you'll need the engine for is as a motorized wheel chair to take you to the bathroom, so that comes out to changing the oil every three days if your bathroom is close to your bed.

>From: BenTbtstr8@aol.com

>To: mark_hb@hotmail.com, vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com

>Subject: Re: synergy?

>Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:36:39 EDT

>My 1965 Bug had over 500K miles on the original engine when I sold it in

>1978. I saw the owner last summer. It's still chugging away today. I forgot

>to look at the mileage. The guy relegiously changes his oil every 1200 miles.

>I think I changed it once a year when I owned it. = )

>Ben

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========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:45:02 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: 14" 15" and 16" oh my! Comments: To: KENWILFY@aol.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Ken, I thought you used Agilis 51's in 205 65 R15? If this is true please tell us about the difference between these two tires on 15 inch wheels. Also, since 205 65 R15 is the stock tire in SA for 15 inch wheels isn't 215 65 R15 not exactly right? (whereas 215 60 R15 would be an exact match? [in the correct load rating of course). And if yes then what are the cons (as well as the pro's) of using 215 65 R15 tires SA 15 inch wheels? For instance is your speedometer thrown off? Or is there a compromise in the life of the tire because the sidewalls have to curve more to fit the wheels? On the plus side, how much protection is given to the lip of the wheels when you accidently brush up against the side of a curb while parking?

Sorry for the anal retentive ignorance on my behalf. Its just that I'm an expert in making the wrong decisions.

>From: KENWILFY@aol.com

>Reply-To: KENWILFY@aol.com

>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

>Subject: Re: 14" 15" and 16" oh my!

>Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:12:39 EDT

>I have 15" SA Alloy rims on my '91 Carat Vanagon. I am running BF Goodrich

>TAs that are 215 65 R15. I love them! Got the tires from www.tirerack.com

>for like $85 each plus shipping. Got the rims from me :)

>Thanks,

>Ken Wilford

>John 3:16

>www.vanagain.com

>Phone: (856)-765-1583

>Fax: (856)-327-2242

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========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:59:21 -0500 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: Van joke [friday fun]MORE Comments: To: Andrew Payton MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good Grief! Andrew Payton wrote>> > A young couple was making passionate love in the guy's van ........ > > You've got the worst case of van aerial disease that I've ever seen."<< The following came Friday from a friend in Alaska who knows I drive a vanagon!! Blonde Breakdown A blonde is tooling down the Interstate and when a tire goes flat, So she eases it over onto the shoulder of the road. She carefully dismounts from out of the van and opens the rear hatch. Out from under a tarp on the rear deck of her vanagon jump two men in trench coats. They walk 20 feet from the rear of the vehicle where they stand facing oncoming traffic and begin opening their coats and exposing their nude bodies underneath to approaching drivers... Not surprisingly, one of the worst pile-ups in history of this highway occurs It's not very long before a police car shows up. The cop, clearly enraged, runs toward the blonde standing by the disabled vehicle and yells, "What the heck is going on here?" My van had a flat," says the lady, calmly. "Well, what are these perverts doing here by the road?!" asks the cop, nodding towards the guys in trench coats. And she said..."Oh!.. "Those are my emergency flashers!" ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:58:26 -0400 Reply-To: Pat Dooley Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Pat Dooley Subject: Re: I-5 vw transplant Comments: To: Awf986@aol.com In-Reply-To: <57.158b50a0.2825916e@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit No and No. > will a 87 quantom 5 cylinder engine blot up to a diesel > bellhousing? > also would this engine bolt right up to the diesel sidebars. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:21:59 -0700 Reply-To: Rachel Cogent Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rachel Cogent Subject: Diesel 1500cc on eBay Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I am new here and need a new motorious. There is an item on ebay: VW DIESEL SHORT BLOCK ASSY. Item #584632857 It is 1500cc short block, does anyone know what year and model this would fit? Could I bolt it into my "83 Vanagon which is endowed with a 1600?? would the head fit, ETC?? Gnarlodious ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:41:26 -0700 Reply-To: Michael Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Snow Subject: Re: Diesel 1500cc on eBay Comments: To: Rachel Cogent In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The 1.5D is for late '70s to early '80s cars only. The vanagon uses only the 1.6D in North America. Other markets also got 1.6TD and 1.7D models. I have never heard of anyone installing a 1.5D in a Vanagon, but I think it will fit. It will most likely not have enough power to push the Vanagon. Mike Snow -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of Rachel Cogent Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 3:22 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Diesel 1500cc on eBay I am new here and need a new motorious. There is an item on ebay: VW DIESEL SHORT BLOCK ASSY. Item #584632857 It is 1500cc short block, does anyone know what year and model this would fit? Could I bolt it into my "83 Vanagon which is endowed with a 1600?? would the head fit, ETC?? Gnarlodious ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:41:56 -0700 Reply-To: Todd Last Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: H & R springs Comments: To: KENWILFY@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------CF3D30E28554DAF69A7313DA" --------------CF3D30E28554DAF69A7313DA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'd agree with this. I have H&R springs with KYB shocks and the front is always bottoming out. There was a list member who made lower shock mounts to avoid this problem - but I don't remember who it was. Todd '88 Westy KENWILFY@aol.com wrote: > Ben, the biggest mistake that people make when installing lowered > springs is > not also installing shocks that are setup for the springs. The > catalogs I > have for H & R springs or any other type always says, in really small > print, > "only recommended if installed with matching shocks". So when people > put > these on that complain that the ride is terrible. Of course it is > because > the shocks are hitting the stops before the can go normal travel for > the > springs. So my recommendation is that you get a set of shocks that is > setup > for the springs before you install them or you are going to be > disappointed. > > Thanks, > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com > Phone: (856)-765-1583 > Fax: (856)-327-2242 --------------CF3D30E28554DAF69A7313DA Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'd agree with this. I have H&R springs with KYB shocks and the front is always bottoming out.
There was a list member who made lower shock mounts to avoid this problem - but I don't remember who it was.

Todd
'88 Westy

KENWILFY@aol.com wrote:

Ben, the biggest mistake that people make when installing lowered springs is
not also installing shocks that are setup for the springs. The catalogs I
have for H & R springs or any other type always says, in really small print,
"only recommended if installed with matching shocks". So when people put
these on that complain that the ride is terrible. Of course it is because
the shocks are hitting the stops before the can go normal travel for the
springs. So my recommendation is that you get a set of shocks that is setup
for the springs before you install them or you are going to be disappointed.
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242

--------------CF3D30E28554DAF69A7313DA-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:50:28 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Restoring the dash? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi, I had my Vanagra painted and they let overspray get on the dash. It used to be such a nice lovely black, and now it has a permanent dusty look. Okay, so how can I restore it without getting cracks later on? thank you information freaks. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 18:51:02 EDT Reply-To: Wolfvan88@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Lilley Subject: Need Help from those that store their Vanagons for a month or more for a lawsuit MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_96.13c5528b.2825ddd6_boundary" --part1_96.13c5528b.2825ddd6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had an incident with a gas station that gave me some bad gas. I drove it for at least @2315 miles documented then over 200 miles prior to getting the bad gas on Sunday morning April 1st. ( I was taking my Grandmother, Along with her special chair to her sister in VA) I had my Vanagon parked for most of March as I waited for money from my new job to be able to afford new tires and then a state inspection. The van sat overnight on both Friday and Saturday night. I drove over 50 miles Friday- failed inspection due to a cracked fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I drove over 120 miles during the Saturday. Passed inspection (With the ECU power chip and ratio rockers) The insurance company is saying that my fuel tank rusted out during the month it was parked with a nearly full tank of gas. I cranked the engine and ran it for @15 minutes several times during the time it was parked. When I drove it @15 miles to top up the tank with 6.42 gallons of gas and then about 90 miles later over rough roads and parked. When I came out my engine would not start as before. I cleaned out the fuel filter three times over the next 50 miles, blowing out red sediment. I then drained the tank and filled it with a full tank and the engine ran for the next 240 miles until I dropped the tank to try to clean it out. What I need is notes stating that you have: A stock Vanagon fuel tank. You stored your Vanagon for X amount of time and did not have a rusty tank as a result of it. If anyone has had bad fuel what was done to resolve it? Thanks for your help, Robert --part1_96.13c5528b.2825ddd6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had an incident with a gas station that gave me some bad gas.

I drove it for at least @2315 miles documented then over 200 miles prior to
getting the bad gas on Sunday morning April 1st. ( I was taking my
Grandmother, Along with her special chair to her sister in VA)

I had my Vanagon parked for most of March as I waited for money from my new
job to be able to afford new tires and then a state inspection.

The van sat overnight on both Friday and Saturday night.
I drove over 50 miles Friday- failed inspection due to a cracked fuel
pressure regulator vacuum hose.

I drove over 120 miles during the Saturday. Passed inspection (With the ECU
power chip and ratio rockers)

The insurance company is saying that my fuel tank rusted out during the month
it was parked with a nearly full tank of gas.

I cranked the engine and ran it for @15 minutes several times during the time
it was parked.

When I drove it @15 miles to top up the tank with 6.42 gallons of gas and
then about 90 miles later over rough roads and parked. When I came out my
engine would not start as before.

I cleaned out the fuel filter three times over the next 50 miles, blowing out
red sediment.
I then drained the tank and filled it with a full tank and the engine ran for
the next 240 miles until I dropped the tank to try to clean it out.

What I need is notes stating that you have:
A stock Vanagon fuel tank.
You stored your Vanagon for X amount of time and did not have a rusty tank as
a result of it.

If anyone has had bad fuel what was done to resolve it?

Thanks for your help,

Robert

--part1_96.13c5528b.2825ddd6_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 15:49:07 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: ATF Level too high - what now? Comments: To: Mark Dorm completely without turning the vanagon upside down [this would make working on cars so much easier, why don't they do this?]. I'm Many years ago, a buddy of mine decided to rebuild the engine in his bug. Try as we might, we could not get a good purchase on one of the top bolts connecting the engine to the tranny (by this time I think it was kinda rounded off, too). I came up with the brilliant idea of turning the bug over on its side. We pulled out the back seat to rest the vehicle on, and with the oil drained, four of us lifted the driver's side and set the bug over. Took five minutes to remove the bolt with the better access. No harm, no foul. Karl Wolz ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:03:27 EDT Reply-To: JordanVw@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@aol.com Subject: black dash pad FS Comments: To: mark_hb@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4c.14b2997f.2825e0bf_boundary" --part1_4c.14b2997f.2825e0bf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit got a black vinyl dash pad ...fits all vanagons, even earlier ones. has the little tray and maplight. chris --part1_4c.14b2997f.2825e0bf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit got a black vinyl dash pad ...fits all vanagons, even earlier ones. has the
little tray and maplight.

chris --part1_4c.14b2997f.2825e0bf_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 18:11:38 -0400 Reply-To: mark fisher Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mark fisher Subject: 87 syncro F.S. in Minneapolis Hi all I am selling my syncro- it's a gl with the weekender package, runs well, $4000 OBO. E-mail me at fishmeok@worldnet.att.net for all the details. I'm in Minneapolis, MN Cheers Mark ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:22:36 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Sticking rear hatch lock problem Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed My rear hatch lock keeps sticking. I have central locking. I have to spray in WD 40 to get it to work (after spraying then I lock and unlock from the front doors to get the hatch to be able to open). This is getting tiresome. Anyone know if Kroil would be a longer lasting solution. I have to do this nearly everytime I want to open my rear hatch. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:00:37 -0500 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: synergy? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After hearing from Stan Wilder, Mark Dorm, Terry Kay, and BenT, I'm going to put a new Mahle filter on my vans 2.1L WBX, pour in a 1 quaert of Marvels and top off with fish oil!!! Reckon it will eliminate valve clatter on start up, keep injectors squeeky clean and get me a cool one million miles on the old WBX???? John Rodgers 88 GL Driver Mark Dorm wrote: > > Okay, so I walk into a small auto parts store. The have one bottle of > redline oil, but not the kind I need. So I ask him can he order it? > Only by case. Okay. Then he tells me about Synergy, that its better > than Redline, that its the only synthetic oil approved by NASCAR, that > it improves your gas mileage, that he put it in his truck and got an > improvement of 3 or 4 miles per gallon. Okay. > > Is he full of it? Has he been smoking dope? Does he just want my > money? Or is this what my vanagon has been looking for? > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:12:57 -0700 Reply-To: radish150 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: radish150 Subject: Oil pressure report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I got my engine torn down after nearly dumping it in an irrigation ditch because of LAME oil pressure problem. Were talking somewhere in the neighborhood of 150K, this is the run down. Rod bearings, minimal wear (replace). Main bearings, some copper showing, but none were toasted (replace). Barrels and pistons, nearly perfect (hone and replace rings). Replaced oil pump and cover with oem. Cam and crank mic'd perfect. Cam bearings TOAST! Some had that crappy chrome looking stuff flaking off in big chunks leaving huge pits to bleed off oil valuable oil pressure. Heads were replaced in not too distant past, look great. Total cost so far, about 400$. Ken Wilford, you kick butt. When I called he went and looked for my parts while I waited, knew exactly what I needed, HAD everything I needed- including main bearings (at very competitive prices) and he then feverishly packed the parts while UPS was in the shop tapping thier fingers waiting. When I got the box the next day, the gaskets were not bent, and everything that I ordered was in the box. Asset to the ebay comunity! A+++++++. Wait, you know what I mean. Ok, nuther little question for the smart folks out there. This rig has been running very well, but there are a couple of little things that I'm curious about. Anyone know what causes a slight surging at idle speeds? If the idle is low enough it won't do this, but if you raise it up it will surge lightly at very low rpm. Other nuther little question. The last few times I started this thing it seemed to "load up" a bit for a minute or two before it cleared up and ran smooth. Was really nothing but a very minor inconvenience really, but last time I tried to start it it was plainly flooded out (smelled gas). Took sitting a few minutes to start again. ??? ??? One thing I'm wondering about is this when I got this thing the computer was bad and it dumped quite a bit of raw gas out the exhaust system, but only for a very short time. Basicaly the puter died, the bus died, and when we tried to start it it pumped some fumes but did not start. Then replaced the computer and proceeded to burn all the dumped fuel. Could this have clogged that horrid convereter? What about opening it up and hollowing it out and welding it shut again? Anyone know how to do this? Thanks amigos mark... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:08:39 -0700 Reply-To: Joel Cort Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Cort Subject: 89 syncro Westy F.S. in Rochester Posted on EBAY Comments: To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com In-Reply-To: <004f01c0d5b0$972f6540$47a64b0c@default> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi everyone I just posted my van on Ebay for the highest bidder. Darn picture did not come out but there ya go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=586668410 Thanks, Joel ===== Joel CortRochester NY.89 Syncro Westy "Vanadinite"89 Syncro Westy "Cinnabarvan" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: Restoring the dash? Comments: To: Mark Dorm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark, You can use the same stuff I used to repaint my black bumper. Can't remember the name, might have been Back to Black. Just go to an auto supply/paint outlet & get a satin finish black suitable for vinyl & plastic. Should do the trick. Good luck! Phaedra ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:16:04 -0400 Reply-To: Bradley Flubacher Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bradley Flubacher Subject: cleaning parts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What's the best solution to use for cleaning parts? (do it yourselfer) This is a diesel engine. any special considerations? Bradley Flubacher State College, PA '82 VW diesel westy '84 GL wasserboxer ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 18:25:25 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Drillock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Drillock Subject: FS: Vanagons with rare features, etc MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit SoCal ads today 1983 VW WESTFALIA, original 57M, 4 speed, 1 owner, propellor top, stove, refrigerator, sink, like new, hardley used, pp, (1GYW092), $4900 or best offer - 310-394-9591 1987 VW Vanagon Rare Wolfsburg Ed., Grey Weekender with pop-up table, fold-down bed, A/C, pwr locks & mirrors, AM/FM/CASS, 114K, 22 mpg. Great for export to Mexico. ????? (760) 787-0441 $4000 VW CAMPER 1984 VW CAMPER VAN WOLFSBURG, pop top sweeper, frige, sink, 4 speed, 2 burnr gas stove, captins chrs, repair records, almst new trs, many other options, excellent condition, pp, (1kaw756), $5900, 818-880-2140 And in the Dreamer catagory: 1965 VW 21 WINDOW deluxe Microbus, walk throughout, complete restored to original paint coats, Blaupunkt white, over sea blue, new engine, trans, etc, pp, (3GZL447), $19,500 (760) 612-7001 WANTED: VW Camper 70's w/ wrkg kitchen,runs good w/no need of work, current tags for a long distance trip, prfr owned by non-smoker under $2000 or gift. 60 VW 23 WINDOW 1960 VW 23 WINDOW DELUXE Micro Bus, new paint, sealing wax red, beige gray paint, nds intr & assembly, $10,500 or best offer, 909-659-22 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 18:39:07 -0700 Reply-To: Rachel Cogent Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rachel Cogent Subject: Re: cleaning parts Comments: To: Bradley Flubacher In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > Subject: cleaning parts > > What's the best solution to use for cleaning parts? (do it yourselfer) This > is a diesel engine. any special considerations? > In my opinion the best way to clean parts is to use a can of engine starting spray fluid (ETHER) VERY FLAMMABLE- USE OUTSIDE, DON'T SMOKE Melts even hard grease, evaporates completely leaving the grease wherever it evaporates. Rachel ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:45:47 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Ex Mercedes Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >He was pushing throttle, changing gears and laughing and after the better >part of a long block the chow dog just gave it up! > >Stan Wilder >83Westfalia Air Cooled Are you trying to tell us you have a bit of a problem with 3 different dogs? Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 www.goingplatinum.com/member/vw1 www.my-successcenter.com/member/vw1 www.aciimoney.com/index.shtml?vw1 VW & Toyota vans, Toyota diesels and Macintoshes rule ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:46:03 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Imua Camper Co, Hawa-i-i Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just coincidence, the following was posted on a Macintosh list today... ********************************************* LEM-Swap is for buying & selling Mac stuff. It is not a discussion list. -------------------- - I am looking for G3/G4 Powermacs, Powerbooks, iMacs, and/or displays for both my business and personal use. Would like to offer VW camper rentals in Hawaii as trade for such- (I am the owner of the company). It is a great way to tour Hawaii- if anyone has plans to visit and has extra Mac hardware- I'm willing to offer you a very good deal. Need to upgrade the old Powermacs! Please visit our site for details on our service: http://www.imua-tour.com Thanks, and Aloha... Shawn Zenor owner, Imua Camper Company -- Imua Camper Company Volkswagen Westfalia camper rentals in Hawai'i http://imua-tour.com toll free: 1(877)773-4682 or (808)935-6241 email: admin@imua-tour.com -- LEM-Swap is sponsored by LowEndMac.com and... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:51:29 EDT Reply-To: DieterKnittel@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dieter Knittel Subject: 1986 VANAGON GL 2.1, 4 SPEED MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello List members, I'm unable to get my Van Running correctly. I'm not a Mechanic at all, everyone i have asked around here could not help me. I dont have the money to take it into a shop and pay hundreds of dollars for service. So i sell that Van now. I would love to keep it if I could get it fixed, its fun to drive and all, but I run out of time now. 1986 Vanagon GL 4 cyl. 4 speed. Light Blue Metallic. Condition is good, Interrior is very nice, seats 7 I guess, got 2 front seats, then the middle seat and the big back bench. This is not a motorhome, no kitchen or so. interior is also blue. The dash is all new, no cracks or anyhtink. New speedometer and RPM meter. Panasonic Stereo am - fm & Tape. 2 door speakers Panasonic too. The paint is on a scale from 1-10 a 8...i took the Van to the carwash and blastet a little off on the side sliding door and on the other site. but nothing major, about the size of 3x3 inches i guess. The Van is over all in very nice condition just has those Idel problems with the Valve connected and stall`s when i drive sometimes. If I disconnect that Valve it runs normal, but still stalls.The windshild has a crack in it and a chip from a rock i guess. But cant be that Bad, because I passed safty Inspection without a problem. So if anyone is out there interested and able to fix it, come get it is all yours. Im on the end of my nerves.........I'm done with it, just to much to know about it. The funny think is , i just got it 14 days ago myself, but didn know that i need to know so much about it to get it running. I'm located in missouri, in Branson about 38 miles south of Springfield or 250 south of Kansas City Missouri. I sell it for Kellys Blue Book Value for $ 1800.00 or Best Resonable Offer. e-mail me or call with questions please 417-338 9349 home 417 -339 9810 cell e-mail dieterknittel@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:43:55 -0700 Reply-To: pedro dos santos Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: pedro dos santos Subject: Re: sticking rear hatch lock problem MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I had the same problem with my rear hatch lock sticking two years ago on my 91 vanagon. The problem was that I was carrying too many bicycles and gear, and that was putting some pressure on the lock. So at the time I pulled the rear seat back rest down and had to take all the bikes out through the sliding door. Then I realised that the door could open normally. So from then on, if there is some pressure on the rear hatch, I ask someone to push a little bit on the rear hatch at the lock, and I go to the driver's door and unlock with my keys et voil�. The door unlocks! I suspect that there is some kind of pressure on your door lock. Maybe your rear hatch is bent, or you have to reajust the locking hook on the van. If nothing of that works then I guess you have to buy a new locking device. Pedro dos Santos Montr�al pedrokrusher@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:48:08 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Look at these el bitchen compasses for your vanagra Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

http://www.silva.se/outdoor/products/comp_adv70un.htm

http://www.silva.se/outdoor/products/comp_adv58.htm

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========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:50:03 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: Restoring the dash? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

I'll keep this in mind, but painting me dash scares me. If I screw it up everyone will know I tried to paint it.

>Mark,

>You can use the same stuff I used to repaint my black

>bumper. Can't remember the name, might have been

>Back to Black. Just go to an auto supply/paint outlet

>& get a satin finish black suitable for vinyl & plastic.

>Should do the trick.

>Good luck!

>Phaedra

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========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:55:37 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: cleaning parts Comments: To: Bradley Flubacher In-Reply-To: Bradley Flubacher 's message of Sat, 5 May 2001 21:16:04 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Gunk works great. You also have a tank load of cleaning solution in your fuel tank. Diesel works good for cleaning grease and crud, but you'll miss the buzzzzzz, from the either, and you won't get blown to the moon either, if you decide to have a smoke while cleaning whatever. Cleanng stuff with ether is nuts. Very Dangerous, and hard on your health. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:13:02 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: major hatch strut question Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_464b_1656_6b29" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_464b_1656_6b29 Content-Type: text/html Hey, I been searchin' the archive and nothin' been happening. Dunno what to do. Maybe I asks you's. Need replacin' no workin' hatch struts with some of d'em pvc pipes, but me no know the specs on d'em pipes. How long, how wide? You tellin' me please?

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------=_NextPart_000_464b_1656_6b29 Content-Type: text/html

I haven't been on the list for a while (some of you will clap your hands for that) and last time I was on it you could search the archives by subject, and right now I can only locate the search by week. So am I lost or is it gone? I'm looking for the pvc pipe substitution for hatch struts thingy. Need the specs. How long and how wide?

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------=_NextPart_000_464b_1656_6b29-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:35:05 -0700 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: What is the correct way of coloring the interior panels black? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have all the interior panels from a 1985 Vanagon sitting here that is brown in color. I want to color these panels (mainly the door panels) black and install them into my Double Cab. Any suggestions so I can make it factory looking? Thanks in advance. David Marshall - Volkswagen Enthusiast Quesnel, British Columbia, Canada 78 VW Rabbit 84 VW Westfalia [For Sale] 84 German Army VW Double Cab [For Sale] 87 VW Fox Sedan 87 Audi 5000 Quattro 88 VW Syncro Double Cab David's Volkswagen Home Page http://www.volkswagen.org Fast Forward Automotive Inc. http://www.fastforward.ca ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:41:58 -0700 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: Heavy red wire in engine compartment Comments: To: Karl Wolz In-Reply-To: <002901c0d59d$02630740$ee3c480c@pavilion> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Starter??? Where is this wire located? David Marshall Fast Forward Automotive Inc. 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 � Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions � Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales � European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Karl Wolz Sent: May 5, 2001 12:53 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Heavy red wire in engine compartment '88. I didn't pull the engine, but I've almost got it back in. There are two heavy red wires in the engine compartment. One goes to the alternator. Where does the other one go? I know when I hear the answer to this, I'm gonna smack myself upside the head, but I could use the info. Thanks, Karl Wolz ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:35:58 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: What is the correct way of coloring the interior panels black? Comments: To: David Marshall In-Reply-To: David Marshall 's message of Sat, 5 May 2001 20:35:05 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit David, Go to you local automotive paint supplier, and request a product called Mar-Hyde. It is a interior spay on die. Works good. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:58:01 -0500 Reply-To: CHRIS STANN Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: CHRIS STANN Subject: Re: Fix A Flat Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit snip.. > Is fix a flat any good or does it mess up your snip.. > Viagra ingredients I don't know... I never needed any... Chris '85 Westy "Da Luv Box" no Viagra, ever ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:57:30 -0700 Reply-To: The CiKaspers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The CiKaspers Subject: repost of message (replacing expansion tank, plus some wire questions) [long] Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" i sent this last weekend, but i think i sent it from the wrong email alias. thanks for reading. bill ***** i replaced our westy's leaking expansion tank today. it was actually dripping coolant from the crack onto the pavement...if i didn't know better i would say a head leak, but no leaks there, yet. we have air conditioning. vw didn't design the driver's side expansion tank retaining screw location with air conditioning in mind. if anyone with air conditioning ever needs to replace their expansion tank, i can tell you: it's a treat to get the retaining screw out from below the padded high-pressure refrigerant line. getting it back in was not the world's easiest task, either. the combination extended from about thirty minutes to over an hour to get the damn thing out and the new one in. cleaned my sender, too, it had a strange soft deposit on it, kind of greasy and grimy, but washed off with clear water. i also found a hank of wires leading off of some of the main harness on the left side of the engine compartment. they led to an unplugged plug, which i now believe to be trailer lights (a flat, rectangular *something* had a label which was pasted to its side showing the directions of hooking up the lights). now i have to figure (a) if they're still working, (b) if i can easily strip them out, (c) if i can make them more solid, or (d) what they are if not trailer lights, because the plug is plugged with dirt, good north carolina red clay. and i saw two other wiring oddities that i would like some advice on. coming off of the crankcase breather stack is the hose to the lower of the two connections into the air inlet hose. plugged into this hose, about an inch from the air inlet hose, is an electrical plug that leads about 2 feet to a second electrical plug with a bell-shaped rubber gasket, connected to nothing. in fact, it is wrapped around the wires at the back (towards the front of the car) of the engine compartment. anyone know what this wire is supposed to connect to, or what it would do if connected? you can see the connection that is plugged in to the hose on p. 1.10 of Haynes, fig. 8.14; the positive (+) of the CO level adjustment in the illustration is right in the wire. this same illustration is in Bentley, but it's in my van right now. the second wiring oddity traces back out from the throttle valve switch. the connector that comes out of this switch connects to a connector bolted to the block, which comes out of a slit in a harness of wires on the right side of the engine. all is well and good with those connectors, and my throttle valve switch. what is curious is the two fine white wires that *also* come out of that slit, which wires end in black plastic right-angled connectors. a pair of connectors not connected to anything. anyone know what they might be? i can't find anything in either haynes or bentley showing these connectors. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:21:46 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: major hatch strut question, PVC STRUT Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed slwalters@earthlink.net sent me a nice picture of pcv struts. IF you haven't seen this you have to ask him to send you one. (UNLESS you can get to from here [shows you how much I don't know]) It should be a poster we could all buy to help fund vanagon.com. I had just finished with the archive search for all of 2000, and nothing came up under PVC, when I opened up slwalters message. It made me so happy I started dancing in manner never seen before on earth, in a style which can only now be called the PVC STRUT. And then the following song came to me and sang the following aria complete with lyrics and copyright to slwalters@earthlink.net. Quiet now, I'll sing it for you too, it has a nice opera hip hop rip rap melodramatic groove to it, and choregraphy reminescant of West Side Story, but without the racism. Listen in: Well, this is just totally bitchen, and graphic too. Why isn't this the homepage photo for vanagon.com? What else can we do with pvc pipe in the vanagon? Curtain rods? Protective cover for our antenna? How about as structure for a curtain box you crawl into so that you can sleep inside of it with privacy without having to use the curtains against the window when you nap? That way when a cop stops and shines his light into your van all he sees is this big black box, kind of like in space odessey 2001. What can he do but wonder what in the hell it was? Now here's my big question. Why not put the pipe on both sides? Isn't there a chance you'll warp the door by only using one side. I'm gonna paint mine gray, to match the interior. People will think it came that way then. German Engineering. Perfected in America. This is really going to save my knee caps, and lower my frustration level by a factor of a very large unknown number. I did find a cheap way to put small dents in your/our/mine vanagon and hold the hatch up at the same, all while banging your head now and then (clap your hands now please!). Just detach one strut, lower it a bit and rest the loose or free tip against the body of the vanagon where the hatch seals. Walla, the hatch is up, and you can bang your head whenever you forget how low it is. >From: "Samuel L. Walters" >To: Mark Dorm >Subject: Re: major hatch strut question >Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 23:26:38 -0400 > >See the attached. > >Sam ><< hatch_strut_support.PDF >> _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:25:02 -0700 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Would I Steer You Wrong? (was RE Restoring the dash?) Comments: To: Mark Dorm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark, would I steer you wrong! I did this refinishing a year ago & it looks just as fresh as the day I painted it. Get the spray product designed for the job! There are may to choose from. Not expensive. The trick is to FOLLOW the directions. Be sure to read the can & buy the recommended solvent/cleaner to prep the surface. Any good auto paint shop/detailing shop will have the right stuff. Find someone who looks like they know something & tell them what you want to do. Lots of people are buying these products. You want the one designed to adhere to plastic & vinyl & is made to "flex" with your bumper, dashboard, etc. I removed my front grilles & windscoops, cleaned them, prepped the surface with solvent, let it dry, then applied two coats of this special satin black spray paint, allowing to dry between coats. I had everything back on the car in four hours. ***Of course, without this list I would have been at it a lot longer--I found the grille's "fasteners" mysterious and irksome. I found them illogical. Good luck with your project, Phaedra '85 Wolfs Westy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:34:47 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: I thought I said Synergy Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed http://www.dalube.com/products.htm I'm getting the real feeling that no one hear has used or heard of synergy, nor the claim (made to me by a sales clerk) that it improves gas mileage (if thats true, remember GAS IS GOING TO BE 3 DOLLARS A GALLON THIS SUMMER). So this is where we can start our learning curve, together. Isn't it neat? I'm so excited! _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:38:40 -0400 Reply-To: "Samuel L. Walters" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Samuel L. Walters" Subject: Re: major hatch strut question, PVC STRUT MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Volks, Mark is going nuts over me just sending him the .pdf file from Karl Bloss' web page about the PVC strut support. Have it on my hard drive. Just sent it as an attachment - no more, deserve no credit. All PVC praise be to the Bloss. Sam Walters ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 23:41:36 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: I thought I said Synergy Comments: To: Mark Dorm In-Reply-To: Mark Dorm 's message of Sat, 5 May 2001 21:34:47 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Mark, Have you ever looked at the JC whitney catalog? Curb feelers sold by them give you better fuel economy. So do the Hula Girls. So do the spinner hubcaps. So do the chrome tail pipe extensions. So do the Blue Dot's. So do the chrome spikes that bolt on the vent shades. With this in mind, if that sales person told you you would get better gas mileage with this "Miracle in a can"---go for it!! I have truly heard it all now.:>) ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:42:53 -0700 Reply-To: Michael Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Snow Subject: Re: I thought I said Synergy In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From what I can see, this is GL-5 synthetic transmission gear oil. I believe that all VW manual transaxles require GL-4. Why would anyone wanting synthetic NOT use a proven product like Redline? Mike Snow -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of Mark Dorm Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 9:35 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: I thought I said Synergy http://www.dalube.com/products.htm I'm getting the real feeling that no one hear has used or heard of synergy, nor the claim (made to me by a sales clerk) that it improves gas mileage (if thats true, remember GAS IS GOING TO BE 3 DOLLARS A GALLON THIS SUMMER). So this is where we can start our learning curve, together. Isn't it neat? I'm so excited! _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:52:07 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: I thought I said Synergy Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Sounds like you're dragging your feet on this learning curve we're on. With so much to explore in the world we live in and on, and so little time, I suggest you get with the program and start climbing this learning with the rest of us. Heres the next step. Are you ready? IN THE YEAR 2050 THE MAJOR SOURCE OF FUEL WILL BE NATURAL GAS. WHAT WILL YOU DO WITH YOUR VANAGON THEN? WHAT KIND OF OIL WILL YOU USE? STAY TUNED FOR SOME VERY IMPORTANT AND USEFUL AUTOMOTIVE INFORMATION. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzshshshshshshchch http://www.dalube.com/blueflam.htm > >Mark, >Have you ever looked at the JC whitney catalog? > >Curb feelers sold by them give you better fuel economy. >So do the Hula Girls. >So do the spinner hubcaps. >So do the chrome tail pipe extensions. >So do the Blue Dot's. >So do the chrome spikes that bolt on the vent shades. > >With this in mind, if that sales person told you you would get better >gas mileage with this "Miracle in a can"---go for it!! > >I have truly heard it all now.:>) > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | >||-(())----(())-| > > >Terry >74 Westy (Clementine) >85 GL _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:52:41 -0400 Reply-To: "Horace K. Sawyer" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Horace K. Sawyer" Subject: Re: looking for suebaroo vanagone In-Reply-To: <28049-3AF4D600-1109@storefull-135.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed reply to me kindly ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:08:01 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: I thought I said Synergy Comments: To: Mark Dorm In-Reply-To: "Mark Dorm" 's message of Sat, 05 May 2001 21:52:07 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit This all sounds like the Gestapo has plugged you in pretty good. This is all BS------I'm from Missouri, show me!! People are like cattle---just lead them and they will go. When I picked up my Westy last week, and I was up north the gas was $1.52 for regular,$1.52, for mid-grade, and $156 for premium. Hmmmm---- Get back home and the price changes here 8 times before the truck even dumps a new load. Come-on, we are just getting screwed, and doing nothing about it. I'll park the Vanagon, if things get really bad and drive the BMW, which gets 23--24 around town, 28--29 on the road. Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:29:51 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: looking for suebaroo vanagone Comments: To: "Horace K. Sawyer" In-Reply-To: "Horace K. Sawyer" 's message of Sun, 6 May 2001 00:52:41 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Do What ? ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:29:45 -0700 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: looking for suebaroo vanagone Comments: To: "Horace K. Sawyer" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Horace! Haven't seen your name on a post for so long & feared you'd slipped in the shower. Phaedra ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:41:35 -0700 Reply-To: Lee Kouns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Lee Kouns Subject: Noisy valve (?) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hi all you nice Vanagon experts, I'm seeking your advice and comments. Periodically (often after the van hasn't been used for awhile) I get a knocking sound from near the valve cover on the driver's side. It gets louder when I increase the idle speed. It gets softer and often goes away after the van has been driven for a few minutes. The sound has been occuring more frequently over the last 20,000 miles (out of 137,000 total). What are your thoughts? Thanks to everyone in advance, Lee Kouns 88 Westy Los Angeles, CA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:44:21 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Noisy valve (?) Comments: To: Lee Kouns In-Reply-To: Lee Kouns 's message of Sat, 5 May 2001 22:41:35 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Lee, Change the oil and filter, and throw a quart of Marvelous Mystery Oil in it. It will go away. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:27:22 +0300 Reply-To: Stebbins Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stebbins Organization: The American University in Cairo Subject: Air intake snorkle: was K&N dirty filter MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I think that I have solved my dirty K&N filter problem. As you may remember I have a carb sitting on top of the engine; I took a rectangular plastic jug, cut out the bottom to fit the carb plate, cut the top along 3 sides so that I could get the filter in the jug I taped everything back up again. I taped some empty water bottles to the jug (connected to the carb plate) and taped the water bottles to a flexible snorkel to go up through the air intake panel on the rear left side of the van and then ran more taped water bottles up the side air intake to the top of the plastic grill covering the air intake hole. On our last trip, we did a bit of sand driving and the K&N filter was still VERY clean. This is now very much a homemade Syncro air intake set-up. If you believe that a picture is worth a 1,000 words, go to www.photopoint.com and enter my email address (stebbins@aucegypt.edu) and at the album page click on the K&N album to see a few pictures of the set up. Cheers, Malcolm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:48:57 +0300 Reply-To: Stebbins Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stebbins Organization: The American University in Cairo Subject: freak: alternator belt JUMPed off MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit On our last trip, we went to Siwa, about 500 KMs west of Cairo and 300 Kms south of the Mediterranean, it is a small oasis town/village. As we were driving slowly along some of the back dirt "paths" my ever-observant wife said: "The needle is VERY high!" As I looked at the gauges, I could see that the battery light was also ON. I had been concentrating on driving and she had glanced at the gages (good vanagon wife!!). I immediately stopped. At the back of the van, coolant was spewing out of the top of the secondary expansion tank and the alternator/water-pump belt was just lazing about on top of the engine! How could that be!!!! We decided to go have a glass of juice while the engine cooled off so we could work on it. Upon our return, I saw the oil filler cap was lodged in under the water pump pulley - my oil filter tube is not stock, it is a flexible radiator hose with a rubber "stopper" in the top. The cap had deep grooves in it from the pulley. I checked the water pump pulley, it was not wobbly the alt pulley was OK too. I can ONLY surmise that somehow the cap blew/giggled off and became lodged in the pulley (freak incident) and heated up the belt and it just squeezed itself off the pulley. We put the belt back on, lodged the oil filler cap in a better place and had no problems on our way home. What a freak incident. Malcolm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:50:07 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Engine adaptors from Australia Comments: cc: caravelleausnz@yahoogroups.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Found Unicap, an Australian outfit making engine adaptors to fit VW & Porsche trans. Conversions include Subaru. They look good in images. Won't include electrical side of things. www.pnc.com.au e-mail Bill at bill@pnc.com.au Warning: Bill can't spell his way out of a wet paper bag! Comby, Porsch, Reno, knerl, At least he spells adaptor correctly. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand fax 64 (3) 479-7527 www.goingplatinum.com/member/vw1 www.my-successcenter.com/member/vw1 www.aciimoney.com/index.shtml?vw1 VW & Toyota vans, Toyota diesels and Macintoshes rule ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 06:59:08 -0400 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: Fridge blows out on propane Help needed. My fridge runs on all 3 settings, but, in a Westy I just bought the fridge blows out on propane when going down the road. Now for those of you that feel that a person should not drive with the fridge on propane, please do not flame, or bother to lecture me. I personally find running the fridge on propane is more efficient then on 12v when driving, and feel there are no inherent risks of explosion from a flame the size of a match and a 1/4 inch steel tank. Anyone repair this problem? I am quite familiar with the fridges, for I have repaired a few of them in the past, but never encountered this before. TIA Adam Puzerewski 81 westy 74 beetle 73 Transporter (new!!!!!!!) Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:04:57 -0400 Reply-To: puzerewski Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: puzerewski Subject: Re: ISO Sliding Window Latch Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com The screws threads are fine and it seems to take forever to get out doing half turns, so be patient and it will come off. Adam Puzerewski 81 westy 74 beetle 73 Transporter (new!!!!!!!) Vanagon Partsmobiles ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stan Wilder" To: Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 10:47 AM Subject: Re: [VANAGON] ISO Sliding Window Latch > The little sliding door latch has a screw up through the bottom. You > need a little 90 Degree straight slot screwdriver to get at the screw. Be > careful when it comes off there is a little spring that will fall out as > the lastch comes off dis-assembled. > > That's it. > > Stan Wilder > 83 Westfalia Air Cooled > > On Sat, 5 May 2001 20:50:27 +1000 Ray Hunnam writes: > > Stephen > > > > There was a post recently from someone wanting to know how to take > > the > > sliding window apart. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:41:39 -0400 Reply-To: Paul Borghese Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Paul Borghese Subject: Re: Fridge blows out on propane Comments: To: puzerewski , vanagon@vanagon.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Search the archives for messages about how to remove your refrigerator. By cleaning the frig you can help prevent the light from going out during highway travel. Also, make sure your tank is full. This may occur when the propane tank is low. Take care, Paul Borghese ----- Original Message ----- From: "puzerewski" Newsgroups: groupstudy.vanagon Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 7:13 AM Subject: Fridge blows out on propane > Help needed. My fridge runs on all 3 settings, but, in a Westy I just > bought the fridge blows out on propane when going down the road. > > Now for those of you that feel that a person should not drive with the > fridge on propane, please do not flame, or bother to lecture me. I > personally find running the fridge on propane is more efficient then on 12v > when driving, and feel there are no inherent risks of explosion from a flame > the size of a match and a 1/4 inch steel tank. > > Anyone repair this problem? I am quite familiar with the fridges, for I > have repaired a few of them in the past, but never encountered this before. > > > TIA > Adam Puzerewski > > 81 westy > 74 beetle > 73 Transporter (new!!!!!!!) > > Vanagon Partsmobiles > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:11:02 -0400 Reply-To: Kitzmann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kitzmann Subject: I-4 conversion timing problem In-Reply-To: <200105060354.f463se727108@marlin.exis.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ran into a small problem the other day when I realized that I can't check my ignition timing by looking at the timing marks on the flywheel. The diesel bellhousing is located 30 degrees or so from where it is on the golf bellhousing and does the diesel flywheel even have timing marks?! So my connumdrum is what is the easiest way of checking the timing? I never checked it when I put the engine in because at that point it ran fine, but now that it is getting pretty hot outside the van seems to have developed a hesitation on takeoff. So everyone knows it is a 1.8L Cis-e 10:1 compresson engine from a Golf GT. Thanks, Dave K. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:20:02 EDT Reply-To: JordanVw@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@aol.com Subject: Re: FS: Vanagons with rare features, etc (f) Comments: To: drillock@earthlink.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_3d.b40fff3.2826b792_boundary" --part1_3d.b40fff3.2826b792_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/5/01 9:28:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, drillock@earthlink.net writes: > 1983 VW WESTFALIA, original 57M, 4 > a propellor top westy would be nice is a SoCal traffic jam.. just fire up the blades, and lift off..... ;<) chris --part1_3d.b40fff3.2826b792_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/5/01 9:28:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
drillock@earthlink.net writes:

1983 VW WESTFALIA, original 57M, 4
speed, 1 owner, propellor top,

a propellor top westy would be nice is a SoCal traffic jam.. just fire up
the blades, and lift off..... ;<)
chris --part1_3d.b40fff3.2826b792_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:22:05 -0400 Reply-To: "Horace K. Sawyer" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Horace K. Sawyer" Subject: Re: looking for suebaroo vanagone Comments: To: PSavage In-Reply-To: <002801c0d5ed$9080cee0$5a408bcd@n0e4e8> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed t 10:29 PM 5/5/01 -0700, PSavage wrote: >Horace! >Haven't seen your name on a post for so long >& feared you'd slipped in the shower. >Phaedra My suspension is up. Good to hear from all supporters. The Legacy will continue. Horace ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:23:35 EDT Reply-To: DieterKnittel@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dieter Knittel Subject: AFM meter cleaning MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi list, anyone out there who can tell me where the AFM is located in the enigine? how does it look ? How do i clean it ? I probely look right ad it and dont see it. I keep trying to get that van running, so please help me out here, and if anyone out there knows about a site, where i can take a look at the same engine, witch tells me what each individual part is called that would help too. I just downloaded the cooling hose Diagram for my Van, it was very informative, because it told me with little arows what each hose is called and what it does. thank you all, Dieter 1986 Vanagon GL 2.1 ltr. 4 speed watercooled Branson, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:46:55 -0500 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: I thought I said Synergy Comments: To: Mark Dorm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I disagree. In the year 2050, the major source of fuel will be hydrogen. Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Dorm To: Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 11:52 PM Subject: Re: I thought I said Synergy > Sounds like you're dragging your feet on this learning curve we're on. With > so much to explore in the world we live in and on, and so little time, I > suggest you get with the program and start climbing this learning with the > rest of us. Heres the next step. Are you ready? > > IN THE YEAR 2050 THE MAJOR SOURCE OF FUEL WILL BE NATURAL GAS. WHAT WILL YOU > DO WITH YOUR VANAGON THEN? WHAT KIND OF OIL WILL YOU USE? STAY TUNED FOR > SOME VERY IMPORTANT AND USEFUL AUTOMOTIVE INFORMATION. > > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzshshshshshshchch > > http://www.dalube.com/blueflam.htm > > > > > >Mark, > >Have you ever looked at the JC whitney catalog? > > > >Curb feelers sold by them give you better fuel economy. > >So do the Hula Girls. > >So do the spinner hubcaps. > >So do the chrome tail pipe extensions. > >So do the Blue Dot's. > >So do the chrome spikes that bolt on the vent shades. > > > >With this in mind, if that sales person told you you would get better > >gas mileage with this "Miracle in a can"---go for it!! > > > >I have truly heard it all now.:>) > > > > ______________ > > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > > | | | | > >||-(())----(())-| > > > > > >Terry > >74 Westy (Clementine) > >85 GL > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:47:09 -0700 Reply-To: Mark Drillock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Drillock Subject: Re: FS: Vanagons with rare features, etc (f) Comments: To: JordanVw@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chris, I see your point. So I guess the one equipped with a "sweeper" probably pushes the traffic out of the way like a cow catcher on a locomotive. >>VW CAMPER 1984 VW CAMPER >>VAN WOLFSBURG, pop top >>sweeper, frige, sink, 4 speed, 2 Mark 1983 VW WESTFALIA, original 57M, 4 speed, 1 owner, propellor top, >a propellor top westy would be nice is a SoCal traffic jam.. just fire up >the blades, and lift off..... ;<) >chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:48:02 -0700 Reply-To: steve@syncro.org Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Schwenk Subject: Re: freak: alternator belt JUMPed off Comments: To: Stebbins MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not that freakish. Off road, stuff gets kicked up into the belts and will cause them to be thrown off or chewed up. VW made the stone deflectors for the belts to address this problem. But it is different than an oil cap! steve Stebbins wrote: > > On our last trip, we went to Siwa, about 500 KMs west of > Cairo and 300 Kms south of the Mediterranean, it is a small > oasis town/village. As we were driving slowly along some of > the back dirt "paths" my ever-observant wife said: "The > needle is VERY high!" As I looked at the gauges, I could > see that the battery light was also ON. I had been > concentrating on driving and she had glanced at the gages > (good vanagon wife!!). I immediately stopped. At the > back of the van, coolant was spewing out of the top of the > secondary expansion tank and the alternator/water-pump belt > was just lazing about on top of the engine! How could that > be!!!! > > We decided to go have a glass of juice while the engine > cooled off so we could work on it. Upon our return, I saw > the oil filler cap was lodged in under the water pump pulley > - my oil filter tube is not stock, it is a flexible radiator > hose with a rubber "stopper" in the top. The cap had deep > grooves in it from the pulley. I checked the water pump > pulley, it was not wobbly the alt pulley was OK too. I can > ONLY surmise that somehow the cap blew/giggled off and > became lodged in the pulley (freak incident) and heated up > the belt and it just squeezed itself off the pulley. We put > the belt back on, lodged the oil filler cap in a better > place and had no problems on our way home. What a freak > incident. Malcolm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:51:34 -0500 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: freak: alternator belt JUMPed off Comments: To: Stebbins MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For a permanent fix, you'd better find out what the cap thought was so funny and fix that. Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Stebbins To: Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:48 AM Subject: freak: alternator belt JUMPed off > I can ONLY surmise that somehow the cap blew/giggled off and > became lodged in the pulley ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:59:27 -0400 Reply-To: "Samuel L. Walters" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Samuel L. Walters" Subject: Re: AFM meter cleaning Comments: cc: Dieter Knittel MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Volks, I sent Dieter the whole file that I circulated earlier about cleaning the AFM, he had not opened it when he sent that email. Now he has because he emailed me. I will send him a picture showing him where the AFM is located and direct him to pictures of the inside of the AFM. I have encourage him to post a detailed description to the list telling exactly what his symptoms are so that one of you who is more knowledgeable than I can help him trouble shoot the van. I have also encouraged him not to just keep doing one thing and then another until he writes this post and gets responses. I am afraid he is going to make things worse before he can get some informed help because he is so upset and desperate to get a car running so he can work. (Understandable, but not the basis of good repair practices.) So, I'll do this part and then hopefully he will help himself with a good post to the list. Bye for now, Sam Walters ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:07:51 -0500 Reply-To: CTONLINE@webtv.net Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: looking for suebaroo vanagone Comments: To: "Horace K. Sawyer" In-Reply-To: "Horace K. Sawyer" 's message of Sun, 6 May 2001 10:22:05 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Legacy? I thought you were looking for a Subagan? Make up you mind there HK, I'm having a hard time keeping up with your mind changes. Must be mid-life crisis syndrome. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ||-(())----(())-| Terry 74 Westy (Clementine) 85 GL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:09:48 -0500 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: AFM meter cleaning Comments: To: "Samuel L. Walters" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks, Sam. You're a good list citizen. Too bad there isn't a knowledgeable list member near Dieter who could help him out. Dave in KC (who has yet to figure out AFMs) 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Samuel L. Walters To: Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 9:59 AM Subject: Re: AFM meter cleaning > Volks, > > I sent Dieter the whole file that I circulated earlier about cleaning > the AFM, ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:07:04 -0600 Reply-To: Alfred Bagdan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Alfred Bagdan Subject: Re: Fridge blows out on propane Comments: To: puzerewski MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Adam, I had this problem too. Took off the outside vent and carefully put it back together, resealing any gasketed areas by adding silicone transparent sealer to the gaskets. The idea is that combustion air should come in only from the air intake hole (the one off center), and not through any cracks or badly sealed gaskets contributing to the intake, thus blowing out your flame. Phew, pardon the length of the sentence. Went on a two week trip and flame did not blow out once. Tray even made ice. Regards Alfred 85 Westy > Help needed. My fridge runs on all 3 settings, but, in a Westy I just > bought the fridge blows out on propane when going down the road. > > Now for those of you that feel that a person should not drive with the > fridge on propane, please do not flame, or bother to lecture me. I > personally find running the fridge on propane is more efficient then on 12v > when driving, and feel there are no inherent risks of explosion from a flame > the size of a match and a 1/4 inch steel tank. > > Anyone repair this problem? I am quite familiar with the fridges, for I > have repaired a few of them in the past, but never encountered this before. > > > TIA > Adam Puzerewski > > 81 westy > 74 beetle > 73 Transporter (new!!!!!!!) > > Vanagon Partsmobiles > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 08:29:25 -0700 Reply-To: steve@syncro.org Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Schwenk Subject: WTB Syncro Starter MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Looking for a working used syncro starter! Steve ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:52:45 EDT Reply-To: WarmerWagen@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Keezer Subject: Re: I-4 conversion timing problem MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_97.14e61582.2826cd4d_boundary" --part1_97.14e61582.2826cd4d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You need dial-in timing light, and this allows you to use the mark on the flywheel. I need one also-any recommendations from listmembers ? Robert Keezer 1982 Westfalia w/ 2.0 Golf lll engine --part1_97.14e61582.2826cd4d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You need dial-in timing light, and this allows you to use the mark on the
flywheel.
I need one also-any recommendations from listmembers ?

Robert Keezer

1982 Westfalia w/ 2.0 Golf lll engine --part1_97.14e61582.2826cd4d_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:16:53 -0400 Reply-To: Ron Semko Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ron Semko Subject: Free 85 Body Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Well, it's clean out the garage time of year.

So, If anyone wants a 1985 Non-Westy Vanagon body, with motor (no trans), just say so, and come and get it (Orlando, Florida).

The body is in excellent shape. No rust, no dings, and a decent interior. It is missing only the drivers door. It was a Mark III conversion with auto tranny (again tranny is missing). This is the way I got it.

I was going to make a trailer out of it, thought it would be cool to have a Vanagon pulling a Vanagon trailer, and still do, but thjis one is in too good of condition to cut up.

Ron Semko

Orlando, Florida

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:40:21 -0400 Reply-To: Paul Gilland Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Paul Gilland Subject: was: Restoring the dash Comments: To: Phaedra Savage Do these paints work well enough to allow me to paint my brown dash black and have it actually look OK? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:32:51 EDT Reply-To: DieterKnittel@aol.com Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dieter Knittel Subject: 1986GL update MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ok, i was getting a lot of helpfull e-mail over the last 24 hr. !! its amazing how helpfull people can be, i never experinced that before !! Thanks for all the e-mails from all of you ! Now i have cheked every !! cable in and around the engine....I found 2 of them where disconnected, I connected them again but again not change in performance. I also took that lid of the AFM, removed the silicon etc.....everythink there looks ok ? no build up except a little white stuff I removed from the top brown wire connection . I put everyhtink back in order like it was. I started up the Engine, and lord behold....the back door witch was nicely above me came rumbling down and hit me on my head...Auggggggggggghh I think now I need 2 new Hydraulick arms for that think too. Man, always something new...Well i brached the hatch door with a 2x4 pice of lumber..OK after i started the engine, it runs for about 20 sec. then totally starts jerking and puffing and Dies? Guys what did i do now ? I have lost about 8 pounds of weight in the last 2 weeks, im getting grey hairs and now i have a headack too, because that Darn door came down on my head. I have installed New spark plugs...Champion...i changed the Oil 10-30 Penzoil. I have detached each sparkplug wire to see if it makes a difference...it did, so it tells me the cyl are ok. By the way the AFM is a new one i talked to the former Owner he said he installed the part himself brand new 6 weeks ago. I cheked that connector behind the Taillight...its all good no dirt or broken connectors. I did everyhtink i have received in all those helpfull e-mails...but Honestly...each time i touch something on that engine....i make it worse i guess. I like that Van.......and if i could afford it, I just would park it and work on it till I get it right, I wish there would be someone down here who could help me, but im in the middle of nowhere. Well i keep the List update with my experince here, till I either fixed it or is has been Sold. Now I got to go and get 2 new Hydraulik arms for that back hatch door, or it will fall down on me again. P.S> sorry about my spelling, im original from germany Dieter Branson, Missouri 1986 vanagon GL 2.1 watercooled, 4 speed ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:43:28 -0700 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: Restoring the dash Comments: To: Paul Gilland MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Do these paints work well enough to allow me to paint my brown dash black and have it actually look OK? Paul, Can't answer that, but suspect so. Have a chat with a knowledgeable salesperson at your friendly auto paint/detail shop. Good luck! Phaedra ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:08:50 -0700 Reply-To: radish150