When you put the new engine in, what other changes did you do to the intake
and exhaust?

Did you put in an air filter (K&N has a drop in model) to allow the air to
enter the engine easier?

Did you clean the throttle body and sand the inside to make it smoother and
less restrictive to air flow (small amount but all changes add to bigger
change)?

Did you put on a free flowing muffler?  Dynomax makes a 6" round that bolts
in with little modifications, muffler supports need to be opened up by about
an inch to fit the larger diameter muffler.  It is quiet at 75 mph.

Did you match port the air runners to the intake port on the heads?  The air
runners have about a @2 mm smaller opening.  This allows for slightly more
air flow to the pistons.  It can be done by using the gasket as a template
and matching to the intake port, then grind the air runners out to match.

Did you match port the exhaust system?  The elbow on stock systems seem to
have a mismatch on one of the two pipes coming into it is 4 mm off-center.  I
ground one edge of the port at an angle to remove the restriction.

Did you wrap the exhaust pipes with heat wrapping?  Gene Berg has this.  It
keeps the heat in the exhaust and reduces heat radiation from the pipes into
the engine compartment.  This keeps the exhaust gases hotter and helps to
maintains a high exhaust gas velocity throughout the pipe.  This allows the
exhaust to have better a scavenging effect on the gases.  With the increased
duration you can give the intake a better head start towards the piston by
the exhaust gases exiting pulling the intake charge in sooner.  The air flow
meter measures the amount and the ECU knows the amount and provide the
correct amount of fuel based on the engines sensors.  When you wrap the
exhaust (I used ceramic coatings) the exhaust gases stay hotter and therefore
travel faster, providing a higher vacuum pressure (scavenging effect) as they
exit and pulling more fuel into the chamber, providing more power at ALL
rpms, and when you make more power at all rpms you need to use less pedal to
make the same speed.
Another benefit is that all the rubber parts in the engine compartment will
last longer, especially the rubber coolant hoses, due to the trapped heat the
parts face during running. I can take a two hour cruise and the engine
compartment is warm, I can put my hand on the alternator and it is warm.

Are you using the Quad tip Bosch Platinum plugs?  The direction of the flame
kernel is directed towards the piston top more than with the single and
similar to the triple electrode.  I have a set and my engine starts with just
a bump of the starter.

I would not use synthetic oil until after around 5000 miles to allow for the
rings to seat. Then use a quality synthetic.  Redline, Mobil, etc.

If you are going to get a fuel pressure regulator, get an adjustable single
diaphragm regulator.  I got mine from CB Performance, You might have to
persuade them, talk to Baya and mention my name, she is aware of T1 parts I
have used with the WBX engine.  This would allow you to set the fuel
pressure.  The vacuum is different from stock due to the cam change and a new
stock might not read exactly correct.


If you need part numbers, look in the archives for my name, I have listed all
parts used during the past two years.

Robert