Welcome to high altitude life! I live in Colorado- Vail pass on a good day 30MPH, 2nd gear by the top! Being passed by cars doing 80MPH! I bet your van is glad to be home at sea level. I can't wait to take a trip out there to feel the difference.

Randy

87 Syncro

>From: Brian Cochran
>Reply-To: Brian Cochran
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: review: reno area van shop for those desert breakdowns
>Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 13:32:48 -0700
>

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========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 14:51:58 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: review: reno area van shop for those desert breakdowns Comments: To: Brian Cochran Have you checked valve adjustment? Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Cochran" To: Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 1:32 PM Subject: review: reno area van shop for those desert breakdowns > Hello all! I spent the summer in the eastern sierras as a wilderness ranger. On days off, I actually lived in and out of my vanagon. Things were quite normal as usual, costing me about $250 per month in parts. The fridge purred along most of the summer on both AC and gas. My Propane tank wouldn't take a fill and forced me to replace it. I do love the van when it just sits there, and doesn't have to go anywhere. > > If any of you remember, I was on the list much of last winter and spring with postings about my "low oil pressure - partial engine rebuild - no change after all together - damn vdo pressure gauge discovered to be the root of the problem all along "....story. Well, I felt after I got everything back together I wasn't getting the power I once had (now we're talking vanagons here, so I use the term "power" lightly). On my drive down to CA, my van got 18-20 mpg on the interstate, but once I hit the mountains, I was getting 14 mpg and it was a real dog going up the slightest hill. I felt I was a danger on the road for going so slow. Well, I found this place in reno (2.5 hour drive from the rural area of bridgeport) call J & R VW VANS that specialized in vanagons. So I brought the van there expecting to figure out this problem of power loss. > Now I don't want to go on a bash session of this place, quite the opposite! They were nice, generally knowledgeable, and cheap as far as I'm concerned. (no place is cheap anymore) > > But they were not tuned into 2.1 L in 84 vans (digijet). They wanted to swap out my throttle body and intake manifolds, telling me I would have more power if I did so. I never heard this before on the list. Their tune-up didn't help me out. They checked a bunch of things, found a grounded out O2 sensor (didn't make a difference though?), and adjusted my too-rich injection. (One worry was that they couldn't check HC, only CO. I'm not sure what the real implications of that are, but I feel HC is important to be know.) > > Well, after thinking about the "upgrade", I decided to go for it. I left the white beast with them when I flew home for a wedding. (close to the airport and lots of storage). > > Well, they put the throttle body in, and found that it didn't make any difference (because of the limitation of the air meter). They took it out, and after checking out all the other possibilities, I picked it up, unchanged, with a $120 bill. I'm not too fond of that in retrospect, since I paid $120 for nothing but storage. The airport would have charged $60. The bummer is that they failed to hook up the throttle return spring, and replace a sub par retaining clip on the step-down spring on the accelerator linkage (Auto tranny). That clip failed on my drive home in the middle of the night. The spring lost, I tied the linkage to the throttle with bailing wire (and it seems to work better!) > > Upon returning to sea level, the van runs better. It was probably an Altitude thing. I keep spending money on nothing. Why is that? > Bottom line. J & R vw vans of Reno: great, unless you have some weird non-stock set up. > > I go now. > b > 84 westy > seattle > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:47:42 -0400 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Visiting Whistler Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi everyone, Well my wife and I just made reservations to head out to Whistler, BC in December. In the time I have spent on this list I have noticed a few postings from this area. Just wanted to know if you had any suggestions on places to see, eat,ect.... We are staying in the village and will have a rental car, but don't plan to drive a whole lot. Mainly there to ski. Also the beta on the ski area would be much appreciated. Thanks very much in advance. We are really excited to visit! Randy Charrette Longmont, CO 87'Syncro-weekender conversion _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 14:58:39 -0700 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: Re: Visiting Whistler In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT In the event you want to take a half day or more off skiing, and the roads are in decent shape, I'd highly recommend a drive past Pemberton along Hwy 99 to Joffre Lakes and Duffy Lake. The former is a 5 minute hike off the road, the latter right along the road and a beautiful sight. I've never driven past Whistler in the winter however, so the conditions of this road may not be worth the risk, as parts of it are very steep and windy. I take it you're flying in? If so, consider yourself fortunate to not have to deal with the infamous Sea to Sky Highway - not for the faint of heart, especially in the winter on a weekend. Have fun! On 25 Oct 2001 at 17:47, Randy Charrette wrote: Date sent: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:47:42 -0400 Send reply to: Randy Charrette From: Randy Charrette Subject: Visiting Whistler To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Hi everyone, Well my wife and I just made reservations to head out to > Whistler, BC in December. In the time I have spent on this list I have > noticed a few postings from this area. Just wanted to know if you had any > suggestions on places to see, eat,ect.... We are staying in the village and > will have a rental car, but don't plan to drive a whole lot. Mainly there to > ski. Also the beta on the ski area would be much appreciated. Thanks very > much in advance. We are really excited to visit! > > Randy Charrette > Longmont, CO > 87'Syncro-weekender conversion > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:00:31 -0700 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: Re: Need a Tach In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 25 Oct 2001 at 15:09, Damian Shaw wrote: > I have updated my 87 Vanagon's tach from the original to one from an > A2 Golf (to reflect my Tiico's redline). > Anyone need the old one? Say $10 + shipping? > Just curious: how does this fit? I'm considering a similar swap when I do my TD conversion to avoid re-tuning the original tach. I was under the impression the A2 Golf/Jetta tachs are a bit smaller. ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:12:37 -0700 Reply-To: ID Workshop Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: ID Workshop Subject: Re: Getting my Westy ready for "Earl" In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="B_3086867557_1416403" > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --B_3086867557_1416403 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable I once bought a =8C78 Westfalia from one of those used car dealers in Souther= n California that operate out of an industrial unit and advertise in Auto Trader. It had a brand new Earl paint job complete with a stripe kit. It ha= d some orange peel but looked OK for a $ 1500 bus. Four years later it had as much surface rust as paint visible. And I lived in Southern California! I don=B9t think I would take any vehicle, that I cared about it=B9s long term welfare, to a cheap auto painter. I loved that van though. I have painted a few cars, motorcycle=B9s, jet skis, bicycles and industrial design models in my time. After the last car I painted, and changed the color on, I vowed never to do it again. In my experience it is a lot of wor= k and very time consuming. A few bits if wisdom: Preparation and cleanliness are key to success. Use only the best materials. Painting is a skill that i= s difficult to master, so practice before you paint your beloved Vehicle. You must have a clean, well lit and ventilated place to spray in. Don=B9t do it i= n your driveway. Rust removal is difficult to do properly, in my opinion, better left to the experts if you can afford it. I have an =8C86 Synchro Westfalia. When it receives its new coat of paint nex= t year it will be at a reputable (probably expensive) body shop. It=B9s true in auto body work that =B3you get what you pay for=B2. Regards, Jon > Joe,=20 > I'm not body-shop expert. I don't even pretend to play one on TV. But g= ood > Lord, man, if you're going to sink as much time and effort into prepping = your > Westy for Maaco or Earl, why not go the extra few feet and complete the j= ob > yourself? You're going to need about three-quarters of the tools anyway.= .. >=20 > In order to give your repaint the best chance for reasonably long-term > survival, you're going to have to do a lot more prep than just washing th= e > bus. Attaching the rust means grinding the area down to bare metal, trea= ting > it with some kind of rust inhibitor, priming, and sanding it. If your bu= s has > more than just a spot or two of seam rust, this whole process can become = a > major undertaking. >=20 > Never having had any dealing with either of these two businesses, I reall= y > can't comment on what they do and how they do it. There are, however, > reputations and second hand information floating about the list that lead= s one > to fairly scream, 'don't whatever you do, go to these places!' To get a > decent paint job, the your bus is going to have to stripped of all attach= ments > - mirrors, molding, bumpers, windows - prepped - meaning taken down to ba= re > metal - primed, sanded, base coated, and finally top coated with a qualit= y > paint. And this quality job is not available from a franchise without pa= ying > a hefty price for it. The paint job you're looking for is not available = at > the price you're paying. You're going to get a van that's been shot with= a > top-coat and that's about it. You'll be lucky if they mask everything > properly.=20 >=20 > As an alternate, consider doing the job yourself by enrolling in a BOCES-= or > continuing education-type course at the local VoTech school. Or perhaps > contact the local VoTech to see if they would like to have a class projec= t - > painting your bus. >=20 > Sorry this is a little long winded. I've gone thru this before. Lowest = price > I received for a quality paint job was $4200. Macco, on the other hand, > quoted $700. Haven't gone either way, but I am saving some $$$ for anoth= er > vehicle (hopefully a MB 240D or 300D) so I can take my bus off the road a= nd > finally get the rust under control. And it looks like I'm going the VoTe= ch > route...=20 >=20 > Alan Bosch=20 > & Phred ('88 Wolfsburg) >=20 --B_3086867557_1416403 Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: Getting my Westy ready for "Earl" I once bought a ‘78 Westfalia from one of those = used car dealers in Southern California that operate out of an industrial un= it and advertise in Auto Trader. It had a brand new Earl paint job complete = with a stripe kit. It had some orange peel but looked OK for a $ 1500 bus. F= our years later it had as much surface rust as paint visible. And I lived in= Southern California! I don’t think I would take any vehicle, that I c= ared about it’s long term welfare, to a cheap auto painter. I loved th= at van though.

I have painted a few cars, motorcycle’s, jet skis, bicycles and indus= trial design models in my time. After the last car I painted, and changed th= e color on, I vowed never to do it again. In my experience it is a lot of wo= rk and very time consuming. A few bits if wisdom: Preparation and cleanlines= s are key to success. Use only the best materials. Painting is a skill that = is difficult to master, so practice before you paint your beloved Vehicle. Y= ou must have a clean, well lit and ventilated place to spray in. Don’t= do it in your driveway. Rust removal is difficult to do properly, in my opi= nion, better left to the experts if you can afford it.

I have an ‘86 Synchro Westfalia. When it receives its new coat of pai= nt next year it will be at a reputable (probably expensive) body shop. It= 217;s true in auto body work that  “you get what you pay for̶= 1;.

Regards,

Jon




Joe,
I'm not body-shop expert.  I don't even pretend to play= one on TV.  But good Lord, man, if you're going to sink as much time a= nd effort into prepping your Westy for Maaco or Earl, why not go the extra f= ew feet and complete the job yourself?  You're going to need about thre= e-quarters of the tools anyway...

In order to give your repaint the best chance for reasonably= long-term survival, you're going to have to do a lot more prep than just wa= shing the bus.  Attaching the rust means grinding the area down to bare= metal, treating it with some kind of rust inhibitor, priming, and sanding i= t.  If your bus has more than just a spot or two of seam rust, this who= le process can become a major undertaking.

Never having had any dealing with either of these two busine= sses, I really can't comment on what they do and how they do it.  There= are, however, reputations and second hand information floating about the li= st that leads one to fairly scream, 'don't whatever you do, go to these plac= es!'  To get a decent paint job, the your bus is going to have to strip= ped of all attachments - mirrors, molding, bumpers, windows - prepped - mean= ing taken down to bare metal - primed, sanded, base coated, and finally top = coated with a quality paint.  And this quality job is not available fro= m a franchise without paying a hefty price for it.  The paint job you'r= e looking for is not available at the price you're paying.  You're goin= g to get a van that's been shot with a top-coat and that's about it.  Y= ou'll be lucky if they mask everything properly.

As an alternate, consider doing the job yourself by enrollin= g in a BOCES- or continuing education-type course at the local VoTech school= .  Or perhaps contact the local VoTech to see if they would like to hav= e a class project - painting your bus.

Sorry this is a little long winded.  I've gone thru thi= s before.  Lowest price I received for a quality paint job was $4200. &= nbsp;Macco, on the other hand, quoted $700.  Haven't gone either way, b= ut I am saving some $$$ for another vehicle (hopefully a MB 240D or 300D) so= I can take my bus off the road and finally get the rust under control. &nbs= p;And it looks like I'm going the VoTech route...

Alan Bosch
& Phred ('88 Wolfsburg)

--B_3086867557_1416403-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 18:22:31 -0400 Reply-To: "Karl M." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Karl M." Subject: Vanagon diesel + diesel Westy + project Westy for sale Comments: To: TDI-conversion , FullMoonBusClub , Audi-VW-Diesel list , Diesel list MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 1982 Vanagon diesel, all there, was running fine until the crank pulley bolt came loose, bent valves. Easily repaired, may need new head. The engine is a factory rebuilt one with around 30K miles on the clock. Good body, two-tone brown, with tan velour interior (with armrest seats), 4-speed trans. $900 or ?, money talks. Fix to drive or use to convert a waterboxer Vanagon to inline gas or diesel engine (TDI?) 1983 Westfalia diesel, 93K miles, 4-speed, pristine white body, engine has hole-in-the-block syndrome. Full camper, all gear intact and in very nice shape. Almost new proper load-rated tires. Diesel Westies this clean are very rare. $3000. Also, 1985 Westy project, needs work, has Ford 4-cylinder conversion unfinished, complete camper, $1200. Must sell all asap, I'm moving (seriously!) in two weeks. Located in Maryland, an hour west of DC. Grab a tow dolly and come and get 'em. Karl Mullendore 1987 Syncro Westfalia 1.9TD 301.432.4645 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:53:23 -0700 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Re: valve adjustments and power (was reno van shop) Comments: To: wolzphoto@worldnet.att.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Karl, since you mentioned .......  I had a lot of valve clatter problems in the post-rebuild days.  Even on the day before I drove to CA, I had to drop a valve cover and readjust to .004 lash as per Boston Engine advice. (flat lifters) .  When I got to the sierras 800 miles later, the valves seemed good to go, no clatter, etc.  So I figured turning in the set screws a quarter turn would only increase the low, low HP.  Well that screwed everything up and I was back to clatter city.  I readjusted to .004 lash and there they sit.   I will mention after I returned from a clatter free summer (with the van sitting a lot in-between long drives) I let the van sit a couple days and upon starting a had a noticeable clatter.  I tried to ignore it and it did go away after about 20-some miles and hasn't returned in subsequent startups.

Do you think getting these valves opened more is going to make the ulimate difference?  How about the clatter?

Thanks

Brian Cochran

seattle




>From: "Karl Wolz"
>To: "Brian Cochran" ,
>Subject: Re: review: reno area van shop for those desert breakdowns
>Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 14:51:58 -0700
>
>Have you checked valve adjustment?
>
>Karl Wolz
>

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========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 18:53:18 -0400 Reply-To: "JOHNSON,DAVID (HP-Vancouver,ex1)" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "JOHNSON,DAVID (HP-Vancouver,ex1)" Subject: FS: 89 Middle seat, air cond. tunnel, front vents, rear seat part ition MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" My vanagon died in S. Cal on my way back to OR. Had to leave her there :( Previously, I had removed some interior items and stored them in my basement at home. Don't need them any more, so I'm offering them for sale. Here's the list (BTW, interior is that standard light gray from 1989): - Middle seat (very good condition) - Air conditioning tunnel (connects back to front) and mounting hardware - Four small vents from the AC distributor above the driver and front passenger - Black (wooden?) partition just below the leading edge of the back seat. Looking for a fair price. Offers? I'm in Portland, OR. Will be traveling to the Sacramento, CA, area for Thanksgiving, so I could meet any buyers on my way down. I would consider shipping any of these items at the buyers expense (shipping the middle seat could be pricey -- that thing is really heavy!). Thanks, Dave ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 23:33:38 GMT Reply-To: dmc@CYBURBAN.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave M Subject: Insurance coverage >From: Fred Brittain > Subject: insurance coverage? > > Hi Volks, > > I've been looking at my auto insurance premiums and want to cut cost. > I have full coverage on my '89 Westy from Liberty Mutual. Rate is > $448/year in a package that includes multiple vehicles and home > owners. > Think yourself lucky! Here in AZ I'm paying double what you are and thats just for liability. Thats with AIG, the cheapest I could find. And I have a perfect driving record over 30 years. Never had an accident or speeding ticket. And my rates go up every year about 10% When I moved house and my to work drive increased from 5 miles each way to 7 miles each way, they raised my premium! --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. This service is provided by Cyburban LINK. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 18:57:36 -0500 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: valve adjustments and power (was reno van shop) Comments: To: Brian Cochran MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------D560D16DF745BB1325194AAA" --------------D560D16DF745BB1325194AAA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brian Cochran wrote: > > > I let the van sit a couple days and upon starting a had a noticeable > clatter. I tried to ignore it and it did go away after about 20-some > miles and hasn't returned in subsequent startups. > > How about the clatter? > > Brian, if the valves are adjusted correctly (flat) and you have run it, the run it again, only to hear the lifter clatter again, then I suspect your engine has the typical vanagon "flat lifter" syndrome. For what ever reasons this is a characteristic of the engine. Maddingly frustrating. It appears to be caused by the oil pressure being lost in the oil galleries of the engine when it is shut off. A number of causes of this condition can occur. Improper filter with inadequate pressure relief spring can bring it on. A piece of trash in the oil in the lifter, any number of things. There are a numbers of ways to attack the problem. Some swear by including a pint to a quart of Marvins Mystery Oil additive to the engine during oil changes. For myself I find that religiosity with oil changes works .... using a Mahle filter of course!! And sometimes nothing works but to change the lifter. Good luck. John Rodgers 88 GL Driver --------------D560D16DF745BB1325194AAA Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brian Cochran wrote:
 

 I let the van sit a couple days and upon starting a had a noticeable clatter.  I tried to ignore it and it did go away after about 20-some miles and hasn't returned in subsequent startups.

 How about the clatter?
 

Brian, if the valves are adjusted correctly (flat) and you have run it, the run it again, only to hear the lifter clatter again, then I suspect your engine has the typical vanagon "flat lifter" syndrome. For what ever reasons this is a characteristic of the engine. Maddingly frustrating. It appears to be caused by the oil pressure being lost in the oil galleries of the engine when it is shut off. A number of causes of this condition can occur. Improper filter with inadequate pressure relief spring can bring it on. A piece of trash in the oil in the lifter, any number of things. There are a numbers of ways to attack the problem. Some swear by including a pint to a quart of Marvins Mystery Oil additive to the engine during oil changes. For myself I find that religiosity with oil changes works .... using a Mahle filter of course!!

And sometimes nothing works but to change the lifter.

Good luck.

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver --------------D560D16DF745BB1325194AAA-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:41:25 -0700 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: Re: FS: 89 Middle seat, air cond. tunnel, front vents, rear seat part ition In-Reply-To: <77261E830267D411BD4D00902740AC2503528D60@xvan01.vcd.hp.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 25 Oct 2001 at 18:53, JOHNSON,DAVID (HP-Vancouver,e wrote: > My vanagon died in S. Cal on my way back to OR. Had to leave her there :( Ouch! Sorry to hear that. > Previously, I had removed some interior items and stored them in my > basement at home. Don't need them any more, so I'm offering them for sale. > Here's the list (BTW, interior is that standard light gray from 1989): > > - Middle seat (very good condition) > - Air conditioning tunnel (connects back to front) and mounting hardware > - Four small vents from the AC distributor above the driver and front > passenger > - Black (wooden?) partition just below the leading edge of the > back seat. > > Looking for a fair price. Offers? > > I'm in Portland, OR. Will be traveling to the Sacramento, CA, area for Damn! We were there a few weeks back and I've been looking for a middle seat... Oh well... unless anyone's driving from Portland to Vancouver, BC that could bring it along... ;-) ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:52:16 -0700 Reply-To: Joel Cort Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Cort Subject: Re: guage choices. Comments: To: Greg Marshall In-Reply-To: <3BD781C1.1B64B24F@home.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii All, I had a cylinder head temp on my old 71 westy and it did not do much. I drove it all over So. Cal desert, Nevada, Utah and Colo. once it warmed up to about 350 it pretty much sat there. It took a lot of time to get there (at 350) in the winter time. The other gauge that I would install, depending where you live is the outside temp gauge fro VDO, it was found on SAABs back in the 80s. This will tell you when the road starts to freeze and how much colder it is outside. The Oil temp and pressure are a good choice. Although the temp doesn't do too much either. The Oil press. is the most important to monitor your engine's health. An Amp gauge will tell you if the alternator is producing a charge and if the fan belt is still on, so that may not be a bad choice. The only problem is running a 10 gage wire from the alt. back to the dash. I just installed the dash console from EuroCampers and plan to install the gauges in the console rather than anywhere else on the Vanagon dash. I will also install the DigiTool in the same console. This is my winter project. Gaugeless for now - but I just got my senders from Ron. Joel 89 Syncro Westy Rochester NY. --- Greg Marshall wrote: > I'm about to undertake the process of installing a trio of guages > in my > 82 air cooled van. I'm putting in an oil temp and oil pressure > guage, > but I can't decide on the third guage. Volts? Amps? Cylinder head > temp? What do you folks suggest? The other possibility is using > the > third space for a 2 1/16 vdo clock, and replacing my big dash clock > with > the tach out of a newer van. How difficult a process is installing > a > watercooled tach in my aircooled van? Do other air cooled folks > think > having a tach is worthwhile? > > I would also be interested in seeing any pictures of peoples guage > installations. tanks for your inpot bus people! > > greg, > > 82 vanagon westfalia, newly de-rusted, touched up, re-exhausted, > tuned > up and cleaned out. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 19:55:14 -0400 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: 85 GL 1.9 engine mystery... Comments: To: rior@GARLIC.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rio; Just a guess on the cam bearing, since the crank turns CW it would push the cam to the left. You did not mention the condition of the main bearings and journals. Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 12:36:47 -0700 Rio Rafael writes: > Hi guys: > My original problem with my van was low oil pressure at idle. > Replaced the > idiot light, no help. Installed a mechanical gauge and confirmed > that it was > very low at idel, but did build to almost 40, eventually (at high > enough > rpm). Compression was excellent. 95k miles. > > So: > I have dissembled my 85 GL's engine... > Good news: > The cylinders still show hone marks and have no ridges. > The heads are uncracked, apparently (!). > The engine was absolutely sludge-free. > Rod bearings are unspun and don't look very worn. > > Bad news: > Piston pins were not being well lubricated and had worn/galled > somewhat. > The cam bearings have sections missing from the shell (just about 1 > mm deep, > almost like galling). > The first cam bearing (nearest the cam gear) has the bearing > material worn > down to the copper... but ONLY on the shell half that is the left > case half. > The other shell is not nearly as worn. What could have caused this? > > Strange news: > 1 lifter had the locking circlip/wire completely missing (so the > plunger was > free to move as much as it wanted in or out). No clip could be > found. > > Looking forward to any comments you might have. I would like to find > the > source of my oiling troubles before getting this thing all together > again...wouldn't want to overlook anything. > > > Thanks > > Rio > 83.5 Westy > 85 GL > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 21:33:55 -0700 Reply-To: Joel Sell Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Sell Subject: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Volks, this weekend I'll be tearing down my 2.1L Carat's engine to replace the head gaskets and do the JBweld fix on the heads. While I have the heads off, I want to do the half liley. I just don't know where to get the parts. Ratio rocker arms? Chromoly pushrods? Bosh Platinum 4 spark plugs? Please help. Joel ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:12:11 -0400 Reply-To: Jason Gorfine Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jason Gorfine Subject: Re: guage choices. Comments: To: Greg Marshall In-Reply-To: <3BD781C1.1B64B24F@home.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit how about a barometer? they're fun for the kids and they require you purchase the Audobon Society Field Guide to the Atmosphere. plus, they're way more useful than a compass (at least in a car, they are). though i doubt VDO makes one to fit in a gauge cluster, or makes one at all for that matter. silly gauge suggestions aside, they're pretty useful for extended camping trips, if you're a weather geek and/or sailed before. jason ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 21:11:00 -0500 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: BA-6 heater for sale Comments: To: type2@type2.com Comments: cc: wetwesties@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ebespacher Heater BA-6 for sale, good condition $350.00 Wireloom has not been cut all electronics and safety drvices come with it. Shipping weight 47 Pounds, it will ship in two cartons. http://wwwapps.ups.com/servlet/QCCServlet UPS Quote Ship from Dallas Texas 756220 Pictures of the heater are at the link below. http://williamwareagency.com/forsale/stanvan/heater1.htm Stan Wilder ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:27:42 -0400 Reply-To: Dennis Haynes Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dennis Haynes Subject: 1.9 liter engine core available! MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Boundary_(ID_7H10UOydF+tohpc+D6hU0Q)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_7H10UOydF+tohpc+D6hU0Q) Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I am removing above engine that is seized. Do not know if from failure or rust. No holes in case. Both heads are there. I am located on Long Island, NY. I have no place to keep it so if some one wants it, come get it. Dennis --Boundary_(ID_7H10UOydF+tohpc+D6hU0Q) Content-type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

I am removing above engine that is seized. Do not know if from failure or rust. No holes in case. Both heads are there. I am located on Long Island, NY. I have no place to keep it so if some one wants it, come get it.

 

Dennis

 

--Boundary_(ID_7H10UOydF+tohpc+D6hU0Q)-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 20:00:45 -0700 Reply-To: David Jaffe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Jaffe Subject: Re: FS: 89 Middle seat, air cond. tunnel, front vents... Comments: To: Shawn Wright In-Reply-To: <3BD840B5.27258.D508F02@localhost> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Actually, I'll be driving up from Portland to Quesnel, BC to get an engine swap done by David Marshall at FastForward, meaning I'll be passing Vancouver. The only question is how soon this happens, which is still to be determined. If you can wait between 2 and 8 weeks, and I can pick it up as I head north (no place to store it), I can bring it up for you. David Jaffe '86 Syncro West'faux'lia -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of Shawn Wright Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 4:41 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: FS: 89 Middle seat, air cond. tunnel, front vents, rear seat part ition On 25 Oct 2001 at 18:53, JOHNSON,DAVID (HP-Vancouver,e wrote: > My vanagon died in S. Cal on my way back to OR. Had to leave her there :( Ouch! Sorry to hear that. > Previously, I had removed some interior items and stored them in my > basement at home. Don't need them any more, so I'm offering them for sale. > Here's the list (BTW, interior is that standard light gray from 1989): > > - Middle seat (very good condition) > - Air conditioning tunnel (connects back to front) and mounting hardware > - Four small vents from the AC distributor above the driver and front > passenger > - Black (wooden?) partition just below the leading edge of the > back seat. > > Looking for a fair price. Offers? > > I'm in Portland, OR. Will be traveling to the Sacramento, CA, area for Damn! We were there a few weeks back and I've been looking for a middle seat... Oh well... unless anyone's driving from Portland to Vancouver, BC that could bring it along... ;-) ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 20:38:57 -0700 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: TIICO: Is Muffler Heatshield Used? (fwd) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Ok, i'm missing something here, why does the exhaust go toward the front of the bus, and then back to exit out of the rear? IS this for noise reasons? Performance? On Tue, 28 Aug 2001, DrCory wrote: > There is different location for the Muffler you might consider. Under the > passenger compartment. > try; http://volksweb.relitech.com/helmut/EXHAUST.HTM > > Cory > '85 Eurospec ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 18:22:55 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Looking for Mike Ramer Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Some short time ago Mike posted a message about someone he knows having fitted a 3.2 911 engine and G50 trans into a Vanagon. I e-mailed him twice to ask for a contact number for this fellow, as I need to find out what exactly I need to do to fit MY G50... and he may even be able to make me a kit! (as MSDS has no intention of selling me one). Got no reply either time. Anyone know whether Mike's still around? I could assume he doesn't want to help, as my messages weren't returned "user unknown", ie it was received. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand ph 64 (3) 473-8863 fax 64 (3) 479-7527 84 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with SVX engine & Porsche G50 trans) RWD 87 Corolla 1.8 DX CE80 diesel sedan 89 Corolla 1.8 DX CE96 diesel van/wagon 89 Corona 2.0 D Select CT170 diesel sedan 92 Toyota Estima Lucida (=narrow-body Previa) 2.2 turbodiesel RWD ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 19:24:51 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: TDI six anyone? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" For those who want to fit a TDI V6, go to www.shubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6.html ...and drool. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand ph 64 (3) 473-8863 fax 64 (3) 479-7527 84 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with SVX engine & Porsche G50 trans) RWD 87 Corolla 1.8 DX CE80 diesel sedan 89 Corolla 1.8 DX CE96 diesel van/wagon 89 Corona 2.0 D Select CT170 diesel sedan 92 Toyota Estima Lucida (=narrow-body Previa) 2.2 turbodiesel RWD ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 23:58:50 -0700 Reply-To: Riley Kettner Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Riley Kettner Subject: Wanted: Grey middle seat in BC MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0083_01C15DB0.FF048C80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0083_01C15DB0.FF048C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Looking for a greay middle seat with the floor brackets. Anyone know of = something left in a junk yard, or perhaps someone selling these things. thanks, riley ------=_NextPart_000_0083_01C15DB0.FF048C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Looking for a greay middle seat with = the floor=20 brackets. Anyone know of something left in a junk yard, or perhaps = someone=20 selling these things.
 
thanks,
riley
------=_NextPart_000_0083_01C15DB0.FF048C80-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 03:26:59 EDT Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Looking for Mike Ramer Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit << Some short time ago Mike posted a message about someone he knows having fitted a 3.2 911 engine and G50 trans into a Vanagon. I e-mailed him twice to ask for a contact number for this fellow, as I need to find out what exactly I need to do to fit MY G50... and he may even be able to make me a kit! (as MSDS has no intention of selling me one). Got no reply either time. Anyone know whether Mike's still around? I could assume he doesn't want to help, as my messages weren't returned "user unknown", ie it was received.>> Well, Andrew. Some months ago, I sent you an email address of a fellow in Jamaica named Mike (Shin IIRC) who has one of MSDS 3.2 911 engine/G50 kit in his Vanagon. Last time I chatted with him, about 6 months ago, he was attempting a 3.6 911 engine conersion again with MSDS's components. He did have some difficulty communicating with w/ Marty. However, I believe he ultimately resolved his issues. I don't have any trouble getting a hold of MSDS via email when I need to. I can try locate Mike Shin's email address if you think he is the guy you are referring to. Ben T ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 06:35:30 -0400 Reply-To: Richard Bias Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Richard Bias Subject: My brake lights are... (lost the post) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Good morning All, I pulled into my work parking lot this morning and was looking in the side rear view mirror (it was dark) and noticed that my brake lights would only come on if I was pressing hard on the pedal. Not jamming hard but hard. The brake lights should come on if you so much as breathe on the pedal. I know someone posted the same scenario a week or so ago but I don't have the reply's. Could some one repost and let me know where and what to do about this situation? Thank you so much for your time. Rich and Annemarie 85 GL "Buba" _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 07:01:52 -0400 Reply-To: Richard Bias Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Richard Bias Subject: Re: My brake lights are... (lost the post) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed You might be saying to yourself right now... "Why didn't he go to the archives?" I have, would and will but right now I can't get to "vanagon.com". Thank you again. Rich >From: Richard Bias >Reply-To: Richard Bias >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: My brake lights are... (lost the post) >Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 06:35:30 -0400 > >Good morning All, > I pulled into my work parking lot this morning and was looking in the >side >rear view mirror (it was dark) and noticed that my brake lights would only >come on if I was pressing hard on the pedal. Not jamming hard but hard. >The brake lights should come on if you so much as breathe on the pedal. I >know someone posted the same scenario a week or so ago but I don't have the >reply's. Could some one repost and let me know where and what to do about >this situation? Thank you so much for your time. > Rich and Annemarie > 85 GL "Buba" > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 07:36:57 EDT Reply-To: CMathis227@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chuck Mathis Subject: Re: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel, If you try to find this stuff specifically for the WBX you'll be out of luck just about anywhere but Fast German Auto. But, the plugs are available from any FLAPS that carries Bosch plugs. The part number IIRC is 4477 but check with me or the list to confirm this before you buy them. In the parts computer at Pep Boys they were listed for a Nissan pickup! The ratio rockers and pushrods can be sourced from any well supplied VW performance shop as they are the same pieces used for the Type 1 air cooled Bug and Type 2 Bus engines. While you're upgrading don't forget a K&N air filter. It improves the breathing some and every little bit helps. While you have the engine stripped down you can pick up a little more power by port matching the intake and exhaust manifolds. Chuck '85 Wolfsburg Westy - 'Roland the Road Buffalo' Smoothed ceramic coated exhaust, Turbomax muffler, polished throttle body, K&N, +4's, port matched exhaust, and 6-degrees BTDC timing. In a message dated 10/25/01 11:04:08 PM, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: << Volks, this weekend I'll be tearing down my 2.1L Carat's engine to replace the head gaskets and do the JBweld fix on the heads. While I have the heads off, I want to do the half liley. I just don't know where to get the parts. Ratio rocker arms? Chromoly pushrods? Bosh Platinum 4 spark plugs? Please help. Joel >> ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 07:02:42 -0500 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? Comments: To: CMathis227@aol.com Comments: cc: FrankGRUN@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've got a question for you about ceramic coated heads. My son (an artist) has a kiln that he can closely regulate temperatures on. Would it be possible to apply ceramic coatings in this type of kiln? I don't know if you know much about artiest but my son goes from feast to famine at three month intervals and if he could glass peen a few heads and pck up some of this business I'd do the research on materials and produce a few sets and test them. Since we're all facing a downward economy, I'd like to help him with an opportunity rather than more of my cash. Stan Wilder On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 07:36:57 EDT Chuck Mathis writes: > Joel, > > If you try to find this stuff specifically for the WBX you'll be out > of luck > just about anywhere but Fast German Auto. But, the plugs are > available from > any FLAPS that carries Bosch plugs. The part number IIRC is 4477 > but check > with me or the list to confirm this before you buy them. In the > parts > computer at Pep Boys they were listed for a Nissan pickup! The > ratio rockers > and pushrods can be sourced from any well supplied VW performance > shop as > they are the same pieces used for the Type 1 air cooled Bug and Type > 2 Bus > engines. > > While you're upgrading don't forget a K&N air filter. It improves > the > breathing some and every little bit helps. > > While you have the engine stripped down you can pick up a little > more power > by port matching the intake and exhaust manifolds. > > Chuck > '85 Wolfsburg Westy - 'Roland the Road Buffalo' > Smoothed ceramic coated exhaust, Turbomax muffler, polished throttle > body, > K&N, +4's, port matched exhaust, and 6-degrees BTDC timing. > > In a message dated 10/25/01 11:04:08 PM, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > writes: > > << Volks, > this weekend I'll be tearing down my 2.1L Carat's engine to > replace > the > head gaskets and do the JBweld fix on the heads. While I have the > heads > off, I want to do the half liley. I just don't know where to get the > parts. > Ratio rocker arms? > Chromoly pushrods? > Bosh Platinum 4 spark plugs? > Please help. > Joel >> > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 06:24:41 -0600 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Andrew Grebneff spoke thus: > For those who want to fit a TDI V6, go to > > www.shubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6.html > > ...and drool. > > > Andrew Grebneff Grebneff: I want to drool, and I tried to drool, but the aforementioned drool-inducing site is not working. Please cut and paste the URL from the address window of your browser so it is droolably clickable. Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 07:40:04 -0500 Reply-To: Chris Stann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Stann Subject: Re: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? Comments: To: Joel Sell In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.0.20011025213109.00aeb9a0@mail.phila.k12.pa.us> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel, To the best of my knowledge, Type 1 ratio rockers will fit the 1.9 L head. I am not sure, but I think the 2.1 L has the same valve train. You may want to verify this. Chris. '85 Westy Half Crazy -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Joel Sell Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 11:34 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? Volks, this weekend I'll be tearing down my 2.1L Carat's engine to replace the head gaskets and do the JBweld fix on the heads. While I have the heads off, I want to do the half liley. I just don't know where to get the parts. Ratio rocker arms? Chromoly pushrods? Bosh Platinum 4 spark plugs? Please help. Joel ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:24:30 -0500 Reply-To: Donald Baxter Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Donald Baxter Subject: Re: Insurance coverage Comments: To: dmc@CYBURBAN.COM In-Reply-To: <200110252321.f9PNLVO20419@mail.lanline.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Move to Iowa. Living proof that old people don't have accidents (Iowa has the nation's oldest average population). I have collision and liability on a '96 Passat GLX (174 horsepower!) and liability only on an '85 Vanagon. My total cost is around $490/year. When I get my insurance bill, I have to laugh since I moved from a place where my combined insurance cost was around $1,300/year (Atlanta, GA). _____ Donald Baxter Iowa City, Iowa (319) 337-0494 www.mindspring.com/~onanov "I envy paranoids; they actually feel people are paying attention to them." -- Susan Sontag. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Dave M Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 6:34 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Insurance coverage >From: Fred Brittain > Subject: insurance coverage? > > Hi Volks, > > I've been looking at my auto insurance premiums and want to cut cost. > I have full coverage on my '89 Westy from Liberty Mutual. Rate is > $448/year in a package that includes multiple vehicles and home > owners. > Think yourself lucky! Here in AZ I'm paying double what you are and thats just for liability. Thats with AIG, the cheapest I could find. And I have a perfect driving record over 30 years. Never had an accident or speeding ticket. And my rates go up every year about 10% When I moved house and my to work drive increased from 5 miles each way to 7 miles each way, they raised my premium! --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. This service is provided by Cyburban LINK. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:22:16 -0400 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: Lifter Thoughts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After installing new lifters and going through several adjustments, I have come to some conclusions and would like to hear any feedback from the list. I have a tired 1.9l wbx that came to me with 120K+ miles on the original motor. It had a damaged lifter due to the PO's attempt to replace a rusted out pushrod return tube. I replaced the lifter. I tried adding CD-2 to the oil as a treatment for the noisy lifters and this set me back probably 3 or 4 months. I didn't realize what the CD-2 was doing to my oil pressure and the lifters. The engine would just fade after 15 or 20 minutes of highway driving. It would continue to run, but with no power. After going through many parts, draining the oil (and the CD-2 with it) fixed the problem. I eventually replaced all the lifters, return tubes and seals. I am now running my lifters at nearly "zero" lash. I backed off the adjusters and turned them in by hand until I felt resistance, tightened a little further, (less than 1/16th turn) and locked them in. It starts better and idles better. It actually cranks faster. It sounds like a sewing machine, but I don't get any loud clacking or hammering like I had at 1 turn, 1/2 turn, or 1/4 turn. I believe the lifter problem in older engines is due to several things. The low oil pressure prevents running more than 1/4 turn or less of lash. When the hot idle pressure is only 5 or 6 psi, there is not much left in the lifter for the next start up. Most of us are running 20-50 oil. If you have a gauge installed, you see it goes up and pegs out at 85 to 90 psi on a cold start. This means the relief is opening, and who knows how much oil the lifters are getting. I have seen several posts about wear in the camshaft bearings, while the main bearings appear to be OK. This would only hurt the oil pressure to the lifters. I think an oil cooler would keep the oil viscosity up, but I haven't figured out a good way to do this on the 1.9l. I guess I will just put up with it until a rebuild comes along. Jay ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 06:27:38 +0100 Reply-To: Raimund Feussner Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Raimund Feussner Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: Gnarlodious MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit It΄s not "shubert", but "schubert" (with C) in the URL, that΄s all. Raimund ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gnarlodious" To: Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 1:24 PM Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? > Entity Andrew Grebneff spoke thus: > > > For those who want to fit a TDI V6, go to > > > > www.shubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6.html > > > > ...and drool. > > > > > > Andrew Grebneff > Grebneff: > I want to drool, and I tried to drool, but the aforementioned drool-inducing > site is not working. Please cut and paste the URL from the address window of > your browser so it is droolably clickable. > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:52:59 -0500 Reply-To: Christopher Darilek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Christopher Darilek Subject: adjusting lifters (lifter lore question) MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_009A_01C15DFB.9D129620" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C15DFB.9D129620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Needing something to "fix" I set all my valves at 006 (like they were = solid). It gave me a little more power from where I was but now I want = to preload(?) them again. So I'm about to tighten them in a quarter = turn after they contact the lifter and if the lifter feels soft I'll do = this again (is that the procedure). Also, when I start the van after it = sat for a day or so the lifters make much noise then quiet down. So = should I do this procedure after they've quieted down or before? Thanks! Christopher Darilek 82 Westfalia ------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C15DFB.9D129620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Needing something to "fix" I set all my = valves at 006 (like they were solid).  It gave me a little = more power=20 from where I was but now I want to preload(?) them again.  So I'm = about to=20 tighten them in a quarter turn after they contact the lifter and if the=20 lifter feels soft I'll do this again (is that the procedure).  = Also,=20 when I start the van after it sat for a day or so the lifters make much = noise=20 then quiet down.  So should I do this procedure after they've = quieted down=20 or before?
 
Thanks!
Christopher Darilek
82 Westfalia
 
------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C15DFB.9D129620-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:14:30 -0400 Reply-To: Bill Knight Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Knight Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? In-Reply-To: <001701c0747c$ba5456b0$c38de195@rayskiste> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit How 'bout that 5-speed Tiptronic transaxle that the TDI is attached to! http://www.schubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6-get riebe.html -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Raimund Feussner Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 12:28 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? It΄s not "shubert", but "schubert" (with C) in the URL, that΄s all. Raimund ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gnarlodious" To: Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 1:24 PM Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? > Entity Andrew Grebneff spoke thus: > > > For those who want to fit a TDI V6, go to > > > > www.shubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6.html > > > > ...and drool. > > > > > > Andrew Grebneff > Grebneff: > I want to drool, and I tried to drool, but the aforementioned drool-inducing > site is not working. Please cut and paste the URL from the address window of > your browser so it is droolably clickable. > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:23:45 -0600 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: Bill Knight In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Bill Knight spoke thus: > How 'bout that 5-speed Tiptronic transaxle that the TDI is > attached to! > > http://www.schubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6-get > riebe.html This URL seems to be truncated after the first line, will someone redo it? ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:31:13 -0400 Reply-To: Bill Knight Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Knight Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.schubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6-getriebe.html ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:46:10 -0600 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: Bill Knight In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Bill Knight spoke thus: > http://www.schubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6-getriebe.html How much? ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:18:29 -0700 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: Re: Looking for Mike Ramer In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I have heard that Russell Sherman at AutoSpiel in Victoria, BC has done a 911 engine swap into a Vanagon, but I don't know any details - perhaps some other list members know more? On 26 Oct 2001 at 18:22, Andrew Grebneff wrote: Date sent: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 18:22:55 +1200 Send reply to: Andrew Grebneff From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Looking for Mike Ramer To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Some short time ago Mike posted a message about someone he knows having > fitted a 3.2 911 engine and G50 trans into a Vanagon. > > I e-mailed him twice to ask for a contact number for this fellow, as I need > to find out what exactly I need to do to fit MY G50... and he may even be > able to make me a kit! (as MSDS has no intention of selling me one). Got no > reply either time. > > Anyone know whether Mike's still around? I could assume he doesn't want to > help, as my messages weren't returned "user unknown", ie it was received. > > > Andrew Grebneff > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > > ph 64 (3) 473-8863 > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > 84 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with SVX engine & Porsche G50 trans) RWD > 87 Corolla 1.8 DX CE80 diesel sedan > 89 Corolla 1.8 DX CE96 diesel van/wagon > 89 Corona 2.0 D Select CT170 diesel sedan > 92 Toyota Estima Lucida (=narrow-body Previa) 2.2 turbodiesel RWD ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:19:06 -0400 Reply-To: Tom and Dana Cates Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom and Dana Cates Subject: Cute Vanagon Girl Needs Help! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom, Could you please post this to the Vanagon list. Terry ( a Moonie from Fla) just had her engine catch on fire in Indiana. Peace Brother, Snoopy If you are going to walk on thin ice, you may as well Dance... proud member http://www.FullMoonBusClub.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "cinnamon girl :*" To: "Snoopy" Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:00 PM Subject: thank u hero!! > ur r the greatest, man!!! > > wanted 82 vw vanagon 4 cyl diesel that runs!! i will > pick up or transport -- i might even be able to have > some one pull it (yeah right ;) yes this address is > great im on the road (-ish) and dont have phone. > heading over to airs right now, thank u, thank u. > > im ok, ur awesome for askin am w/ frenz. > though w/ all my weeping that may not last long :) > > thanks and praises, peace my brother- > Tom and Dana Cates Asheville, NC 83 Air-Cooled Westfalia, 'Hammurabi' http://www.fullmoonbusclub.com/ "Home of the World Famous Breakfast Burritos" http://www.type2.com/rescue/ http://members.home.net/fullmooninjoon/index.htm ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:20:14 -0700 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: BioDiesel - anyone brewing it? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT If anyone on the list is brewing this stuff, especially in BC, please let me know. I'm looking into it, and need to find suppliers for methanol and NaOH (lye) THanks.======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:26:43 -0400 Reply-To: Chad G Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad G Subject: O2 Sensor Disconnected=better mpg??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've been struggling with poor fuel mileage for a while now. I have replaced many parts to no avail (temp II, O2 sensor, wires, plugs, air filter, fuel pressure reg., AFM, ECU.....). I recently disconnected the O2 sensor and the van has been running great....the mpg is much better as well. I did notice at times, with the O2 sensor connected, that when hitting large bump or rough roads that the van would hesitate. I'm thinking I may have a problem with the green wire that connects the O2 sensor to the ECU??? Could it be shorting out??? Is this an easy fix for someone that really doesn't know what to do (ie. me)?????? thanks, Chad G 85GL's ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:43:36 -0500 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Yellow Westy at Baron VW MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15E13.72BD9060" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15E13.72BD9060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Just came back from Baron VW in Merriam, KS, where I was picking up an = LED for my oil pressure light. There was a yellow Westy in the parking = lot... looked to be an 84 or 85. By the time I went back out, it was = gone. Anybody on the list? Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15E13.72BD9060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Just came back from Baron VW in Merriam, KS, where I = was=20 picking up an LED for my oil pressure light.  There was a yellow = Westy in=20 the parking lot... looked to be an 84 or 85.  By the time I went = back out,=20 it was gone.  Anybody on the list?
 
Dave in KC
85 Westy
http://members.fortune= city.com/davebaker1
 
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C15E13.72BD9060-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:44:10 -0400 Reply-To: doug.alcock@HEWITT.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Doug Alcock Subject: Friday Humour Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii This link is on the FullMoonBus Club Humour page --- I loved it. It's what you're supposed to say the next time says "Nice Bus -- is it for sale??". http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Ravine/2474/sellmywhat.html ........and a great weekend to all............... Doug Alcock '84 Westy "BlueBelle" Toronto, Canada http://www.torontovanagon.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Front Heater Core Fun!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_a9.1d5c524a.290af04d_boundary" --part1_a9.1d5c524a.290af04d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anyone who has ever done a front heater core replacement on a Vanagon knows what I am talking about. There are safes that are easier, and take less time to crack. There are parts of the wheel and suspension that have less securing screws. My question (after fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new core in, in about 4 hours) is why? Why does this job have to be such a big pain in the butt? Why do you have to take the whole dash out, and drop the steering colum, and remove the grille because there are two other screws on the outside of the van that are holding the air box in, etc, etc? I mean they could have put a small door right where the lines come out that is held on by a couple of screws and be able to change the core and clean out the heater box in only a few mintues. Instead you spend four hours thinking up worse tortures that you could inflict on the people who designed this convoluted mess, and finally come to the conclusion that the worst thing you could possibly do to them is kidnap them from Germany, bring them to your house, and force them at the point of a gun to do the front heater core replacement, over and over... Thanks for listening to my venting. It's Friday! Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_a9.1d5c524a.290af04d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anyone who has ever done a front heater core replacement on a Vanagon knows what I am talking about.  There are safes that are easier, and take less time to crack.  There are parts of the wheel and suspension that have less securing screws.  My question (after fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new core in, in about 4 hours) is why?  Why does this job have to be such a big pain in the butt?  Why do you have to take the whole dash out, and drop the steering colum, and remove the grille because there are two other screws on the outside of the van that are holding the air box in, etc, etc?  I mean they could have put a small door right where the lines come out that is held on by a couple of screws and be able to change the core and clean out the heater box in only a few mintues.  Instead you spend four hours thinking up worse tortures that you could inflict on the people who designed this convoluted mess, and finally come to the conclusion that the worst thing you could possibly do to them is kidnap them from Germany, bring them to your house, and force them at the point of a gun to do the front heater core replacement, over and over...

Thanks for listening to my venting.  It's Friday!


Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_a9.1d5c524a.290af04d_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:03:59 -0400 Reply-To: Joel Sell Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Sell Subject: Parts suppliers for Half Liley? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Volks, I've only gotten ONE reply (and the person had never actually done the Half Liley) from my original posting. Here it is again. I need the names of parts suppliers for the Half Liley. Ratio Rockers? (are they the same as the T1?) Chromoly Pushrods? Bosch Platinum 4 plugs? Anything else? Thanks Joel ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:05:49 EDT Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Ideas about wiper problem. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_136.3a32d2a.290af1ed_boundary" --part1_136.3a32d2a.290af1ed_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am having a problem with a Vanagon front wiper motor. Basically the problem is this: You pull back the arm on the steering collum and you get the normal spray of water from the windshield washer and the wipers start up. They wipe a few times and then stop. Normal right? Except they stop anywhere they feel like it instead of going back to the "park" position where they normally are. The same thing happens when you use the wipers normally. When you turn them off they stop where ever you flip the switch. You have to turn them back on until they come back to the "park" position and then shut them off them to get them to return. I have tried so far: new switch on the collum new motor known good wiper relay None of these things have helped at all. I believe there is a switch that tells the system when the wipers are back in the "park" position but I have no idea where it is. Anyone ever battle this problem? What was your solution? Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_136.3a32d2a.290af1ed_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am having a problem with a Vanagon front wiper motor.  Basically the problem is this:
You pull back the arm on the steering collum and you get the normal spray of water from the windshield washer and the wipers start up.  They wipe a few times and then stop.  Normal right?  Except they stop anywhere they feel like it instead of going back to the "park" position where they normally are.  The same thing happens when you use the wipers normally.  When you turn them off they stop where ever you flip the switch.  You have to turn them back on until they come back to the "park" position and then shut them off them to get them to return.

I have tried so far:
new switch on the collum
new motor
known good wiper relay

None of these things have helped at all.  I believe there is a switch that tells the system when the wipers are back in the "park" position but I have no idea where it is.  Anyone ever battle this problem?  What was your solution?

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_136.3a32d2a.290af1ed_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:40:30 -0400 Reply-To: abusguy2@SPRINGMAIL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Baker Subject: Conspiracy Theory was:Front Heater Core Fun!!! Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT KENWILFY@AOL.COM wrote: >>My question (after fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new core in, in about 4 hours) is why? Why does this job have to be such a big pain in the butt? Why do you have to take the whole dash out...<< For a long time I have held a strange belief when it comes to automoblies. I believe that ENGINEERS AND MECHANICS ARE LODGE BROTHERS!!! this is the only explanation I can come up with when I think about some of the complicated things you have to do to get to the simple things. I once owned a J**P Cherokee that required disconnecting a water hose to get to the number 4 spark plug!! The engineers are making the cars to guarantee that their co-conspirators, the mechanics, will always have a steady flow of work because most stuff is too much of a PITA to do yourself! That's just my opinion, BTW I also beieve that the Government was involved in the death of Martin Luthe King, JR! Peace, JB '66 Split Window Camper '83 H20 Vanagon "You cannot simultaneously work for peace and prepare for war..." ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:45:42 -0700 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: O2 Sensor Disconnected=better mpg??? Comments: To: Chad G In-Reply-To: <00fe01c15e3b$00e3e020$23a39a8e@chad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII So you o2 sensor is new. You didn't use any antisieze compounds on the threads when you turned it in? You didn't get dirt on it or anything? Good. So that green wire is co-axial. The outer wire is to isolate it from any electrical noise (like the plug wire!) and the inner wire is the important one. It is not uncommon for the outer wire to groun to the inner wire. You may want to cut the wires back a ways, solder on a new inner wire (forget the outer wire) and then connect it back to a good o2 sensor. There is a way to check the continuity of the wire- Bentley spells it out- which lead to check, etc. Also, see see if the center wire is common to ground (not good! could be a bad wire then!) With the o2 sensor disconnected i get about 18 mpg but am a tad weak in power- with the o2 sensor connected i get 45% better (about 20-23mpg). Good luck matthew Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:41:42 -0500 Reply-To: Donald Baxter Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Donald Baxter Subject: Re: Ideas about wiper problem. Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <136.3a32d2a.290af1ed@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15E24.101DB320" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15E24.101DB320 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I can't explain this well, but it has to do with a relay that sends your wipers to a specific position when the power is shut off. I did a bit of seaching on the net and this site seems to explain it as well as any of them: http://www.autoweb.lycos.com/garage/subsys/baacce01.htm _____ Donald Baxter Iowa City, Iowa (319) 337-0494 www.mindspring.com/~onanov "I respect faith, but doubt is what gets you an education." -- Wislon Mizner All Johnson County Reads the Same Book: http://www.uichr.org/features/reading/index.shtml -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 12:06 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Ideas about wiper problem. I am having a problem with a Vanagon front wiper motor. Basically the problem is this: You pull back the arm on the steering collum and you get the normal spray of water from the windshield washer and the wipers start up. They wipe a few times and then stop. Normal right? Except they stop anywhere they feel like it instead of going back to the "park" position where they normally are. The same thing happens when you use the wipers normally. When you turn them off they stop where ever you flip the switch. You have to turn them back on until they come back to the "park" position and then shut them off them to get them to return. I have tried so far: new switch on the collum new motor known good wiper relay None of these things have helped at all. I believe there is a switch that tells the system when the wipers are back in the "park" position but I have no idea where it is. Anyone ever battle this problem? What was your solution? Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15E24.101DB320 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
I=20 can't explain this well, but it has to do with a relay that sends your = wipers to=20 a specific position when the power is shut off.  I did a bit of = seaching on=20 the net and this site seems to explain it as well as any of=20 them:
 
http://w= ww.autoweb.lycos.com/garage/subsys/baacce01.htm

_____

Donald Baxter  Iowa City, = Iowa
(319)=20 337-0494
www.mindspring.com/~onanov

"I respect faith, but = doubt is=20 what gets you an education."
       -- = Wislon=20 Mizner

All Johnson County Reads the Same=20 Book:
      http://www.uic= hr.org/features/reading/index.shtml
-----Original Message-----
From: = Vanagon Mailing=20 List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of=20 KENWILFY@AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 12:06=20 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Ideas = about=20 wiper problem.

I=20 am having a problem with a Vanagon front wiper motor.  Basically = the=20 problem is this:
You pull back the arm on the steering collum and = you get=20 the normal spray of water from the windshield washer and the wipers = start up.=20  They wipe a few times and then stop.  Normal right? =  Except=20 they stop anywhere they feel like it instead of going back to the = "park"=20 position where they normally are.  The same thing happens when = you use=20 the wipers normally.  When you turn them off they stop where ever = you=20 flip the switch.  You have to turn them back on until they come = back to=20 the "park" position and then shut them off them to get them to return. =

I have tried so far:
new switch on the collum
new = motor=20
known good wiper relay

None of these things have helped at = all.=20  I believe there is a switch that tells the system when the = wipers are=20 back in the "park" position but I have no idea where it is. =  Anyone ever=20 battle this problem?  What was your solution?

Thanks, =
Ken=20 Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583 =
Fax:=20 (856)-327-2242
------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15E24.101DB320-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:54:07 -0700 Reply-To: Rio Rafael Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rio Rafael Subject: Main bearings for 1.9 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi everyone: I am a bit confused as to how to determine which main bearing set to order. My crankshaft is a "red dot" unit (from an 85 1.9 liter engine). The mains measure 1) 58.775 mm 2) 54.972 mm 3) not checked yet 4) 40.005 mm My rod journals all measure right about 54.991mm. Any help will be appreciated. Who stocks bearings, btw? Thanks Rio ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:07:45 -0700 Reply-To: Steve Hoge Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Hoge Subject: Re: Speaking of water runoff... MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Richard Bias wrote: >I sealed, very well, with clear silicone, between my wind shield and >the rubber window seal. I think you'd find that, unless you can see water at the bottom of the glass on the INSIDE of the windshield, you need to seal between the windshield gasket and the BODY, not between the gasket and the windshield. I had wet carpet syndrome - and all kinds of water behind the dash and in the door footwells - until I went all around the outside with 3M DripCheck. (Had to do it twice, actually.) This is nasty stuff, isn't cheap, and requires an exotic solvent for cleanup, but it works. I highly recommend doing this with a helper who can hold the gasket open while you squirt in judicious amounts of the sealant. One drawback is that if you ever have to replace the windshield the new gasket probably won't seat tight unless you remove all the leftover dried DripCheck goop. -Steve ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:01:05 -0500 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: Main bearings for 1.9 Comments: To: rior@GARLIC.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The sizes should be marked on the back of your old main bearings. If you got away with polishing the crank they should be the same size. Stan Wilder On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:54:07 -0700 Rio Rafael writes: > Hi everyone: > I am a bit confused as to how to determine which main bearing set to > order. > My crankshaft is a "red dot" unit (from an 85 1.9 liter engine). > > The mains measure > 1) 58.775 mm > 2) 54.972 mm > 3) not checked yet > 4) 40.005 mm > > My rod journals all measure right about 54.991mm. > > Any help will be appreciated. > Who stocks bearings, btw? > > Thanks > > Rio > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:16:29 -0400 Reply-To: Karl Ploessl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Ploessl Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: Gnarlodious Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable the listed price for engine, tiptronic, inspection etc. is in a range of 17500 to 19000 german marks (depending on the engine). But: the german inspection agency (T=DCV) requires for this type of engine and horsepower a new 4 disc brake system, 16 inch rims and tires with "VR" (high speed) nomination and a sports suspension which adds another 9500 german marks. Karl. Karl '81 Westy "Jenny" Wilmington, DE ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:23:28 -0700 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I am reminded of a quote I read about (I think) the Porsche 935, a fearsomely powerful 911-based race car in the late 1970s. It beat a lot of pure, tub-chassised, mid-engine race cars. I don't remember who said this, maybe it was Brian Redman, the Porsche racer. He said "you can't make a pig into a thoroughbred, but you can make one hell of a fast pig." Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '01 Xootr Scooter _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 14:24:48 -0500 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Oil Pressure Warning Light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, I replaced the red LED today, and it still didn't come on when I turned the ignition switch. I took the negative terminal off the battery and checked pins 12 & 13 on the instrument panel plug for continuity with ground. (According to my Haynes manual, pin 13 should be the output of the low pressure sensor on the engine block.) Both checked out at 0 ohms to ground, so I figure the warning light circuit is getting a good ground signal. What's left is some sort of control circuit that is not described in my manual. Can anyone shed any light on what this circuit does? Might there be a fuse that is eluding my detection? Thanks in advance. Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:25:34 -0700 Reply-To: Steve Hoge Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Hoge Subject: Re: review: reno area van shop for those desert breakdowns MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I actually had a very good experience with JR - he bought the Syncro Westy I blew up on the way back from Colorado sight unseen (well, he did see the pix on my web page), paid me a fair price for it, and hauled it back from Grand Junction to Reno. I'm not sure I'd take my van in there for repair but if you are looking to buy one, he has an amazing lot full of Syncros and non-Syncros, Westies and non-Westies and is a straight-shooter. -Steve ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:28:01 -0700 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Front Heater Core Fun!!! Comments: To: KENWILFY@aol.com In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MS_Mac_OE_3086947681_7472650_MIME_Part" > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3086947681_7472650_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit It's Hans and Gunter. They took the defeat of the 3 Reich very seriously and they're going to make us pay. Mike I have an elaborate mythology built up on these two guys in case anyone's interested. From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Front Heater Core Fun!!! Anyone who has ever done a front heater core replacement on a Vanagon knows what I am talking about. There are safes that are easier, and take less time to crack. There are parts of the wheel and suspension that have less securing screws. My question (after fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new core in, in about 4 hours) is why? Why does this job have to be such a big pain in the butt? Why do you have to take the whole dash out, and drop the steering colum, and remove the grille because there are two other screws on the outside of the van that are holding the air box in, etc, etc? I mean they could have put a small door right where the lines come out that is held on by a couple of screws and be able to change the core and clean out the heater box in only a few mintues. Instead you spend four hours thinking up worse tortures that you could inflict on the people who designed this convoluted mess, and finally come to the conclusion that the worst thing you could possibly do to them is kidnap them from Germany, bring them to your house, and force them at the point of a gun to do the front heater core replacement, over and over... Thanks for listening to my venting. It's Friday! Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --MS_Mac_OE_3086947681_7472650_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: Front Heater Core Fun!!! It's Hans and Gunter.

They took the defeat of the 3 Reich very seriously and they're going to mak= e us pay.

Mike

I have an elaborate mythology built up on these two guys in case anyone's i= nterested.

From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM
Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Front Heater Core Fun!!!


Anyone who has ever done a front heater core rep= lacement on a Vanagon knows what I am talking about.  There are safes t= hat are easier, and take less time to crack.  There are parts of the wh= eel and suspension that have less securing screws.  My question (after = fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new core in, in about 4 hour= s) is why?  Why does this job have to be such a big pain in the butt? &= nbsp;Why do you have to take the whole dash out, and drop the steering colum= , and remove the grille because there are two other screws on the outside of= the van that are holding the air box in, etc, etc?  I mean they could = have put a small door right where the lines come out that is held on by a co= uple of screws and be able to change the core and clean out the heater box i= n only a few mintues.  Instead you spend four hours thinking up worse t= ortures that you could inflict on the people who designed this convoluted me= ss, and finally come to the conclusion that the worst thing you could possib= ly do to them is kidnap them from Germany, bring them to your house, and for= ce them at the point of a gun to do the front heater core replacement, over = and over...

Thanks for listening to my venting.  It's Friday!


Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242

--MS_Mac_OE_3086947681_7472650_MIME_Part-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 16:49:26 -0400 Reply-To: Karl Ploessl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Ploessl Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: mike miller In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable homepage (http://www.schubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6-preis.html) says that the T3 is ony allowed to have max. 145 hp w/o modification of brakes etc. If more, the reinforced braking sytem etc is necessary (which makes sense to me :-) Karl. At 1:34 PM -0700 10/26/01, mike miller wrote: =80 What do they require for 911 Porsche conversion? =80 =80 An FIA formula 1 license? =80 =80 =80 Re: TDI six anyone? =80 > =80 > the listed price for engine, tiptronic, inspection etc. is in a =80 > range of 17500 to 19000 german marks (depending on the engine). But: t= he =80 > german inspection agency (T=DCV) requires for this type of engine and =80 > horsepower a new 4 disc brake system, 16 inch rims and tires with "VR" =80 > (high speed) nomination and a sports suspension which adds another 950= 0 =80 > german marks. Karl '81 Westy "Jenny" Wilmington, DE ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 16:56:53 EDT Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Ideas about wiper problem. Comments: To: KENWILFY@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/26/01 1:07:13 PM, KENWILFY@AOL.COM writes: << I believe there is a switch that tells the system when the wipers are back in the "park" position but I have no idea where it is. >> Ken, When you say you tried a new motor, do you mean just the motor or the motor with the gearhead? I have to assume that you exchanged the gearhead motor en toto. I hate to ask this, but did you check the fuses? Fuse number S17 specifically. If the fuse is good, you should have voltage at terminal 53a (GY/BK conductor of the connector) of the wiper motor with the ignition switch on. If this all checks out, then the rotary contact wiper park switch in the GEARHEAD CASE is most likely hinky. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:38:39 -0700 Reply-To: ID Workshop Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: ID Workshop Subject: Passat Wheels Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Does anyone know what the offset is for 2001 VW Passat alloy wheels is? Has any one put them on a Vanagon Synchro? I know that earlier Passat wheels will fit a Synchro with some machining/spacers, but what about the latest generation? I know that the stud number and spacing is that same (5x112mm). Thanks, Jon ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 19:54:55 EDT Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Passat Wheels Comments: To: idworkshop@home.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/26/01 3:39:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, idworkshop@HOME.COM writes: << Does anyone know what the offset is for 2001 VW Passat alloy wheels is? Has any one put them on a Vanagon Synchro? I know that earlier Passat wheels will fit a Synchro with some machining/spacers, but what about the latest generation? I know that the stud number and spacing is that same (5x112mm). >> Jon, I don't know which particular 2001 Passat Alloys you are referring to but most Passat rims I have encountered that have the correct bolt pattern (97 and earlier will NOT fit) have an offset of ET45. Width will dictate how it fits in to your Syncro. Fronts will have to be machined to clear the ridge on the center of the front hub. Rears should bolt right on. However, be aware that the Passat center caps may not fit after the machine work. Again depending on what model wheel you are using. Most contemporary VW alloys attach to the center of the wheel with plastic clips at the perimeter of the cap to be held by a ridge in the centerbore. If you machine that out the centerbore all the way, the caps will have nothing to attach to. You do not need to bore them out all the way for Syncros. You do need to do that on 2WD's. You can avoid this by using a thin spacer. This will not only eliminate the need for machine work but also make it possible to rotate tires and the added benefit of bringing the Passat wheels closer to the Syncro offset. Again, w/o knowing EXACTLY which wheel you are planning on using, this response only serves as an overview of what must be done. You may also need longer studs depending again on which wheel you are intending to use. I have access to some of the longer wheel studs if you end up needing them. BenT all rights reserved ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 18:04:52 -0700 Reply-To: Patrick Harris Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Patrick Harris Subject: Silver Disc Wheel Covers For Sale Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hello everyone! I have 3 Silver Disc style Vanagon wheel covers for sale. Two are in great condition the other has an inch notch in the outer side by the fins, it's in good shape. All go together in one package. I figure that $30.00 for all is an okay price. Anyone interested, please email me. BTW, you pay shipping. Thanks! Patrick Harris Longview, Washington _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 18:16:57 -0700 Reply-To: Patrick Harris Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Patrick Harris Subject: Both Vans gotta go! For sale! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hey everyone! My divorce forces the sale of both of my Vanagons. 1987 VW Vanagon GL, 2.1 Water-cooled 4-cyl., 4 speed, LOADED, A/C, P/S, P/B, Tint, 7 passenger seating, front captain’s chairs, front & rear intermittent wipers, AM/FM/CASS. 4 speaker stereo, rear cabin heater, fold down day bed, runs awesome, interior like new, good tires, newer clutch, Silver w/gray cloth interior MUST SELL! $2750.00 obo 1981 VW Vanagon, 1.9 Air-cooled 4 cyl., 4-speed, Great Gas Mileage, 7 passenger seating, good interior, good tires, clutch, and brakes. Runs Great! Brown and Tan w/Brown vinyl interior $1000.00 obo Pictures will be available once they come back from the photo place. Yeah, I'm not technologically advanced and don't have a digital camera. So, I have to wait for my 35mm pictures to get back from getting transferred into jpegs. I'll have them on my website here soon under the link (VANAGON). My webpage is http://home.earthlink.net/~ptharris It's just a new website so not much is there. But once I get the pictures up in the next day or so, I'll add the vanagon link and they'll be ready. Any questions, please feel free to email me both at: ptharris@earthlink.net harrisvanagon@hotmail.com Or call me... Home phone: 360-636-4068 Cell Phone: 360-957-1291 Leave a message on either if I'm not around. thanks a million!!! Both rigs have clear titles and recent registration here in Washington state. Tabs are good until February 2002 on the 81 and I think until April 2002 on the 87. Patrick Harris Longview, Washington _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:49:56 -0400 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: Main bearings for 1.9 Comments: To: rior@GARLIC.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rio; Looks like you need the red dot set. Did you calibrate your gauge? I am concerned that #4 is five thousandths high. Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:54:07 -0700 Rio Rafael writes: > Hi everyone: > I am a bit confused as to how to determine which main bearing set to > order. > My crankshaft is a "red dot" unit (from an 85 1.9 liter engine). > > The mains measure > 1) 58.775 mm > 2) 54.972 mm > 3) not checked yet > 4) 40.005 mm > > My rod journals all measure right about 54.991mm. > > Any help will be appreciated. > Who stocks bearings, btw? > > Thanks > > Rio > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:37:12 -0600 Reply-To: Brian Bush Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Bush Subject: '82 diesel parts for sale MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have the following parts from my '82 Westy diesel that could be used for an inline conversion for sale: - Original equipment diesel cross member motor mount. $85 - Bell housing to mate inline 4cyl.engine to Vanagon transmission $150 - Diesel transmission, shifts smoothly, good condition $250 - Diesel transmission mount $45 In addition, I may have other parts necessary to do an inline conversion, as well as other general parts from my van that I am parting out. Please e-mail with needs. Also - 1983 Audi 2.0l 5 cyl. Turbo Diesel engine complete with accessories - 83 hp@ 4500rpm; 127lb.ft.@ 2800 rpm (40K mi. on rebuild). Very clean. $600 I am located in the Denver area and would prefer to sell the heavy stuff such as the engine and tranny here, but if you have any good ideas about shipping these items I would be game. Thanks, - Brian ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:05:06 -0500 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: FS: 1980 Camper, $850, near Birmingham, AL MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.ep.com/js/mi/c0/1294580.html this is a guy who runs a vw repair/junkyard business. that's all i know. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:31:40 -0500 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Front Heater Core Fun!!! Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM's message of Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Ken, Here's the deal--- I'll do a front Vanagon blower motor, you put this tin can 1800 engine of mine back together------- Sound good? What a pain----- Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile- (Clementine) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:30:57 -0700 Reply-To: Austin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Austin Subject: Conspiracy Theory was:Front Heater Core Fun!!! In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 10:40 AM 10/26/2001, you wrote: >On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT KENWILFY@AOL.COM wrote: > >>My question (after fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new > core in, in about 4 hours) is why? Why does this job have to be such a > big pain in the butt? Why do you have to take the whole dash out...<< > >For a long time I have held a strange belief when it comes to automoblies. >I believe that ENGINEERS AND MECHANICS ARE LODGE BROTHERS!!! this is the >only explanation I can come up with when I think about some of the >complicated things you have to do to get to the simple things. I once >owned a J**P Cherokee that required disconnecting a water hose to get to >the number 4 spark plug!! >Peace, JB & the best way to change plugs on V6 Chev/GMC suv's is to put the front end up on jacks & pull the wheels for access...(!) Austin ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 22:03:16 -0700 Reply-To: ID Workshop Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: ID Workshop Subject: Re: Passat Wheels Comments: To: BenTbtstr8@aol.com In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Ben, I just got a reply back and they are ET-37's. Do you know if that works? Isn't the stock offset ET-35? So that would mean that they are somewhere between stock and ET-45. Jon > In a message dated 10/26/01 3:39:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > idworkshop@HOME.COM writes: > > << Does anyone know what the offset is for 2001 VW Passat alloy wheels is? Has > any one put them on a Vanagon Synchro? > I know that earlier Passat wheels will fit a Synchro with some > machining/spacers, but what about the latest generation? I know that the > stud number and spacing is that same (5x112mm). >> > > Jon, > > I don't know which particular 2001 Passat Alloys you are referring to but > most Passat rims I have encountered that have the correct bolt pattern (97 > and earlier will NOT fit) have an offset of ET45. Width will dictate how it > fits in to your Syncro. Fronts will have to be machined to clear the ridge on > the center of the front hub. Rears should bolt right on. However, be aware > that the Passat center caps may not fit after the machine work. Again > depending on what model wheel you are using. Most contemporary VW alloys > attach to the center of the wheel with plastic clips at the perimeter of the > cap to be held by a ridge in the centerbore. If you machine that out the > centerbore all the way, the caps will have nothing to attach to. You do not > need to bore them out all the way for Syncros. You do need to do that on > 2WD's. You can avoid this by using a thin spacer. This will not only > eliminate the need for machine work but also make it possible to rotate tires > and the added benefit of bringing the Passat wheels > closer to the Syncro offset. > > Again, w/o knowing EXACTLY which wheel you are planning on using, this > response only serves as an overview of what must be done. You may also need > longer studs depending again on which wheel you are intending to use. > > I have access to some of the longer wheel studs if you end up needing them. > > BenT > > > all rights reserved ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 00:41:04 +0100 Reply-To: Raimund Feussner Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Raimund Feussner Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? Comments: To: Karl Ploessl MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit The 145hp limit is not quite correct. The limit is 165km/h. You may also install a 1200hp jet engine if the tranny ratio is so low that the car only runs 160km/h. That would be some accelaration! I once saw a letter from VW where they claim 165km/h as the top speed with stock Vanagon brakes (΄86 and newer). Raimund ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Ploessl" To: Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 9:49 PM Subject: Re: TDI six anyone? homepage (http://www.schubert-fahrzeugtechnik.de/sites-bus-t3-tdi6-preis.html) says that the T3 is ony allowed to have max. 145 hp w/o modification of brakes etc. If more, the reinforced braking sytem etc is necessary (which makes sense to me :-) Karl. At 1:34 PM -0700 10/26/01, mike miller wrote: ? What do they require for 911 Porsche conversion? ? ? An FIA formula 1 license? ? ? ? Re: TDI six anyone? ? > ? > the listed price for engine, tiptronic, inspection etc. is in a ? > range of 17500 to 19000 german marks (depending on the engine). But: the ? > german inspection agency (TάV) requires for this type of engine and ? > horsepower a new 4 disc brake system, 16 inch rims and tires with "VR" ? > (high speed) nomination and a sports suspension which adds another 9500 ? > german marks. Karl '81 Westy "Jenny" Wilmington, DE ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 03:44:35 -0500 Reply-To: Mark Ingalls Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Ingalls Subject: Re: Ideas about wiper problem. Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi, This site has a written discription and a electrical schematic, albiet for aircooled vw. http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ Mark Ingalls 85 GL 75 Beetle >From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM >Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Ideas about wiper problem. >Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:05:49 EDT > >I am having a problem with a Vanagon front wiper motor. Basically the >problem is this: >You pull back the arm on the steering collum and you get the normal spray >of >water from the windshield washer and the wipers start up. They wipe a few >times and then stop. Normal right? Except they stop anywhere they feel >like >it instead of going back to the "park" position where they normally are. >The >same thing happens when you use the wipers normally. When you turn them >off >they stop where ever you flip the switch. You have to turn them back on >until they come back to the "park" position and then shut them off them to >get them to return. > >I have tried so far: >new switch on the collum >new motor >known good wiper relay > >None of these things have helped at all. I believe there is a switch that >tells the system when the wipers are back in the "park" position but I have >no idea where it is. Anyone ever battle this problem? What was your >solution? > >Thanks, >Ken Wilford >John 3:16 >www.vanagain.com >Phone: (856)-765-1583 >Fax: (856)-327-2242 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 08:40:02 -0700 Reply-To: Joel Sell Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Sell Subject: 1.25 or 1.4 rocker arms? In-Reply-To: <200110270401.AAA13117@mail.phila.k12.pa.us> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Volks, Thanks for the replies I have received from my other posts. I have checked the archives on these questions, and have read conflicting answers. 1) I've read that the 1.4 rocker arms are good to use, but I've also read that the "ramps are too steep" and can cause valve damage. Which statement is true? 2)It appears that Type 1 rocker arms are the way to go, but do I need to buy just the rocker arms, or the whole shaft and assembly? Will the T1 rocker arms just slide on my waterboxer rocker shafts? I'm also planning on getting the swivel foot adjusters. Thanks, Joel '91 Wolfsburg Carat (buying it TODAY!) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:11:58 -0400 Reply-To: "pierre a. lachance" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "pierre a. lachance" Subject: Re: BioDiesel - anyone brewing it? Comments: To: Shawn Wright MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > If anyone on the list is brewing this stuff, especially in BC, Hi! http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_link.html this might interest you if you do not already have it...there is someone in ontario that brews..you will probably receive something from him, if he is still on the list? pierre a. lachance lac beauport, quebec ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:06:35 -0400 Reply-To: Timothy Hannink Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Timothy Hannink Subject: Re: 1.25 or 1.4 rocker arms? Comments: To: Joel Sell MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I got my 1.25 rocker arms, shafts and swivel feet as a kit from CB Performance http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=114. The drivetrain section of my web page has info on the rocker arms as well as some other performance modifications I've made to my Vanagon. Tim Hannink Goldibox - 1987 Westfalia Camper, Wolfsburg Edition Winter Park, Florida http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Sell" To: Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 11:40 AM Subject: 1.25 or 1.4 rocker arms? > Volks, > Thanks for the replies I have received from my other posts. I have checked > the archives on these questions, and have read conflicting answers. > 1) I've read that the 1.4 rocker arms are good to use, but I've also read > that the "ramps are too steep" and can cause valve damage. > Which statement is true? > > 2)It appears that Type 1 rocker arms are the way to go, but do I need to > buy just the rocker arms, or the whole shaft and assembly? Will the T1 > rocker arms just slide on my waterboxer rocker shafts? I'm also planning on > getting the swivel foot adjusters. > > Thanks, > Joel > '91 Wolfsburg Carat (buying it TODAY!) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 09:10:39 -0500 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Ultimate Fix #1 (twisted wires?) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Stan Wilder wrote: If you make long runs of wire from the back to the front of your van forinstruments that read mili-amp signals be sure that you don't twist the > wire more than a turn or two during the run, higher current passing > through adjacent wires can cause magnetic signals to be generated. > Reference: Twisted TWX wires for signal light vehicle sensors are > required to have a twist every six or eight inches to generate a magnetic > pulse. Huh?? Twisted pairs of wire are used to *reduce* production and reception of interfering signals in data transmission. I don't think that the design of vehicle traffic sensors is directly applicable here. When running two wires to a remote sensor I would twist them together perhaps once per foot. Of course a coaxial arrangement with an outer conductive shield provides better signal protection for very low current signals like from an O2 sensor. Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:12:48 -0500 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Sodium filled valves MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anybody know if there are sodium filled valves available that will fit the WBX heads. If so, what are the sources? Thanks, John Rodgers 88 GL Driver ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:22:28 -0400 Reply-To: Kitzmann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kitzmann Subject: Re: speedo/odo error confusion In-Reply-To: <200110250402.f9P426R30869@marlin.exis.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kitzmann Subject: Rear disks in a Vanagon In-Reply-To: <200110250402.f9P426R30869@marlin.exis.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I've been playing around with the idea of putting disks on the rear of the van. I haven't heard of anybody doing this, any thoughts from the list? Dave K. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 08:55:29 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory was:Front Heater Core Fun!!! Comments: To: abusguy2@SPRINGMAIL.COM John, You're close, but way off. It's actually a matter of non-communication. There are several teams who design and build various systems in the Vanagon. Unfortunately, these teams never discuss their plans with other teams (I suspect they speak different languages and couldn't have a meeting if they tried!). What you have on the heating blower is a point where several teams work on one item, but, again, without any discussion. You have the electrical team (The Watts), the ventilation team (The Airheads), the coolant team (The Kool Katz), and the front-end safety team (The 44DDs). There's also a team who coordinates the work of the other teams, but is not allowed, by union rules, to change any of the other teams designs. They can only implement these designs. This team speaks only Polish, by the way. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Baker" To: Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 10:40 AM Subject: Conspiracy Theory was:Front Heater Core Fun!!! > On Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:58:53 EDT KENWILFY@AOL.COM wrote: > >>My question (after fighting the good fight yesterday and putting a new core in, in about 4 hours) is why? Why does this job have to be such a big pain in the butt? Why do you have to take the whole dash out...<< > > For a long time I have held a strange belief when it comes to automoblies. I believe that ENGINEERS AND MECHANICS ARE LODGE BROTHERS!!! this is the only explanation I can come up with when I think about some of the complicated things you have to do to get to the simple things. I once owned a J**P Cherokee that required disconnecting a water hose to get to the number 4 spark plug!! The engineers are making the cars to guarantee that their co-conspirators, the mechanics, will always have a steady flow of work because most stuff is too much of a PITA to do yourself! That's just my opinion, BTW I also beieve that the Government was involved in the death of Martin Luthe King, JR! > > Peace, JB > '66 Split Window Camper > '83 H20 Vanagon > > "You cannot simultaneously work for peace and prepare for war..." > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:57:28 -0500 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory was:Front Heater Core Fun!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I see. It's a "the electrics are from Mars, the mechanics are from Venus" sort of thing... Dave in KC 85 Westy (with instrument cluster removed) http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Karl Wolz To: Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 10:55 AM Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory was:Front Heater Core Fun!!! > John, > > You're close, but way off. It's actually a matter of non-communication. > There are several teams who design and build various systems in the Vanagon. > Unfortunately, these teams never discuss their plans with other teams (I > suspect they speak different languages and couldn't have a meeting if they > tried!). > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 12:55:52 -0400 Reply-To: Peter Brandt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Peter Brandt Subject: 85 Vanagon Kaput! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Kaput! My 85 Vanagon has always run like a finely oiled sewing machine, but the other day it gave me a problem. While going along at 35 or so, it just quit, kaput! It would turn over, but not start =96 I was in a dangerous location, so I called for a tow. Once back home, and after an hour or so, it fired right up and seems to be running fine again?! Can anyone offer any suggestions on where to start? I=92m hesitant on taking it out again for fear of this happening again. Any help would be greatly appreciated=85 -Herr Brandt- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:52:44 -0400 Reply-To: Hector Zapata Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Hector Zapata Subject: coolant overflow to refill tank MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Today I have a new hope about the problem with my van, the gases in the cooling system. A friend of mine, who owns a 1991 red Carat, was having the same problem, right after having the heads replaced, and about the same time that mine started. He took it back to the guy who had just worked on the van, thinking there was something wrong with the work. So it goes, that looking for the cause, somebody mentioned that the radiator might be causing the problem. Having little to loose, my friend had yhe radiator cleaned, and the thing is working great. Lower temps, no gas bubbles, no overfilling. I'm going to try that as soon as I get some vaction days, because it makes sense, all the crud going to the refill tank, and the problem is not there all the time. So there might some hope yet, before disassembling the heads. this guy's van is high mileage, and so is my 1991 Carat, and the heads on mine where worked on not too long ago. Hope this help some of you with this headache. Hector ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:30:52 EDT Reply-To: WESTYTRAVER@CS.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Winget Subject: TIICO MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_3a.1cc9a5fa.290c575c_boundary" --part1_3a.1cc9a5fa.290c575c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello tic owners What oil filter are you using? The # on the filter is not a good U. S number. I do not want to screw anything up by using the wrong filter Dan --part1_3a.1cc9a5fa.290c575c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello tic owners

What oil filter are you using?  The # on the filter is not a good U. S number.  I do not want to screw anything up by using the wrong filter

Dan --part1_3a.1cc9a5fa.290c575c_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:34:04 -0700 Reply-To: van man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: van man Subject: Front disc brakes - Piston?? Comments: cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi List, Im in the middle of replacing the rotors and pads on the front of my syncro. However, reassembly is proving to be the crux. Is there a way to get the piston back into the housing without any special tool? Thanks Jeff __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:35:47 -0400 Reply-To: Hector Zapata Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Hector Zapata Subject: Re: Parts suppliers for Half Liley? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit OK. Says here, CB Performance upgrde from stock parts: 1628 Chromoly pushrods, $44.95 1665 Rhino 1.25 ratio rockers, $119.95 1642 Rhino feet (Porsche style valve adjusting screw) $32.95 1643 High performance rocker shafts $31.95 1534 Rocker arm pads, $4.95 1644 Rocker arm spacer kit, $10.95 1691 Clip-on valve covers (must), $16.95 > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Joel Sell" > >To: > >Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 1:03 PM > >Subject: Parts suppliers for Half Liley? > > > > > > > Volks, > > > I've only gotten ONE reply (and the person had never actually > > > done the Half Liley) from my original posting. Here it is again. I > > > need the names of parts suppliers for the Half Liley. > > > Ratio Rockers? (are they the same as the T1?) > > > Chromoly Pushrods? > > > Bosch Platinum 4 plugs? > > > Anything else? > > > Thanks > > > Joel ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:18:25 -0500 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory - The Skye is Phalling!!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit nah, you guys have it all wrong ... it's the bean-counters in the company that cause it!!! they mandate that the vehicle be quick and easy to ASSEMBLE!!! not fix or take apart. so the dash is built as a one-piece item and put in as a zip-zap-boom process. when YOU have to take it apart, however, you have to disassemble all the little pieces of the thing individually, cause you don't have the big assembly arm that stuck it into the vehicle (oh, and the seats weren't in there at the time). :( not sure if this is the case on our bus, but it seems likely ... i've seen this at the local mercedes plant, where they build the M-Class ...it takes the guys all of 30 seconds to install the dash. really. the dash is built somewhere else, in another building, by a sub-contractor, and brought to the final assembly building wrapped in plastic and ready to be picked up by that assembly arm-thingie. and yes, that 30 seconds includes picking the dash up by that arm. the worst was the fuel tank on that m-class ... it goes into the frame (they have a separate body bolted to a ladder frame, like the old pickup trucks in the u.s.) BEFORE the body goes on. yup ... you can guess what happened. they had to recall the first 4,000 vehicles cause the fuel tank didn't meet some safety crush standard ... and that meant unbolting the body from the frame and lifting up the body to get the fuel tank out!!! took many hours per vehicle to do the fix, whereas it had taken less than a minute to install the tank when the car was coming down the assembly line, with all the robots doing most of the work along the way. stuff like starters already being put onto the transmission-engine assembly before it ever goes into the car; engines already having spark plugs and wires and fuel injection before being put together with the transmission; cooling systems already connected and filled before the fenders and body get bolted to the frame. another example: on the m-class, the entire side of the car is one piece of metal. it's welded to the top and body pieces by a robot. if you have a fender bender and want it fixed, the body shop is gonna have to cut and weld the body to repair it. and it will not be cheap at all ... not nearly as cheap as bolting on a new fender. rather like our buses, i'm afraid. it's an instructive process, to go on the factory tour of such a plant. my nephew went to the honda plant in marysville, ohio, and said it's pretty much the same thing there ... the whole car is designed to be built quicker ... and quicker equals cheaper. and the designers don't care about how long it takes or how difficult it is for the mechanic to fix it ... hopefully, when/if it breaks, it'll be out of warranty and you'll just go get a new one. so i'd blame the bean-counters and lawyers (just gotta throw them in there!! i KNOW they're responsible ... somehow! :) not the engineers and mechanics ... the mechanics suffer worse than we do: they're trying to make a living fixing those things!! :) unca joel ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 12:31:54 -0700 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Rear disks in a Vanagon Comments: To: Kitzmann In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.20011027112520.0080e710@mailhub.exis.net> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit benT? > From: Kitzmann > Reply-To: Kitzmann > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:25:20 -0400 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Rear disks in a Vanagon > > I've been playing around with the idea of putting disks on the rear of the > van. I haven't heard of anybody doing this, any thoughts from the list? > Dave K. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 12:38:45 -0700 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory - The Skye is Phalling!!!! Comments: To: Joel Walker In-Reply-To: <003101c15f1c$2762e480$efe379a5@here> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit This is what Hans and Gunter WANT you to think. Mike The truth is out there > From: Joel Walker > Organization: not likely > Reply-To: Joel Walker > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:18:25 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory - The Skye is Phalling!!!! > > nah, you guys have it all wrong ... it's the bean-counters in the > company that cause it!!! > they mandate that the vehicle be quick and easy to ASSEMBLE!!! not fix > or take apart. > so the dash is built as a one-piece item and put in as a zip-zap-boom > process. when YOU have to take it apart, however, you have to > disassemble all the little pieces of the thing individually, cause you > don't have the big assembly arm that stuck it into the vehicle (oh, > and the seats weren't in there at the time). :( > > not sure if this is the case on our bus, but it seems likely ... i've > seen this at the local mercedes plant, where they build the M-Class > ...it takes the guys all of 30 seconds to install the dash. really. > the dash is built somewhere else, in another building, by a > sub-contractor, and brought to the final assembly building wrapped in > plastic and ready to be picked up by that assembly arm-thingie. and > yes, that 30 seconds includes picking the dash up by that arm. > > the worst was the fuel tank on that m-class ... it goes into the frame > (they have a separate body bolted to a ladder frame, like the old > pickup trucks in the u.s.) BEFORE the body goes on. yup ... you can > guess what happened. they had to recall the first 4,000 vehicles cause > the fuel tank didn't meet some safety crush standard ... and that > meant unbolting the body from the frame and lifting up the body to get > the fuel tank out!!! took many hours per vehicle to do the fix, > whereas it had taken less than a minute to install the tank when the > car was coming down the assembly line, with all the robots doing most > of the work along the way. > > stuff like starters already being put onto the transmission-engine > assembly before it ever goes into the car; engines already having > spark plugs and wires and fuel injection before being put together > with the transmission; cooling systems already connected and filled > before the fenders and body get bolted to the frame. > > another example: on the m-class, the entire side of the car is one > piece of metal. it's welded to the top and body pieces by a robot. if > you have a fender bender and want it fixed, the body shop is gonna > have to cut and weld the body to repair it. and it will not be cheap > at all ... not nearly as cheap as bolting on a new fender. rather like > our buses, i'm afraid. > > it's an instructive process, to go on the factory tour of such a > plant. my nephew went to the honda plant in marysville, ohio, and said > it's pretty much the same thing there ... the whole car is designed to > be built quicker ... and quicker equals cheaper. and the designers > don't care about how long it takes or how difficult it is for the > mechanic to fix it ... hopefully, when/if it breaks, it'll be out of > warranty and you'll just go get a new one. > > so i'd blame the bean-counters and lawyers (just gotta throw them in > there!! i KNOW they're responsible ... somehow! :) not the engineers > and mechanics ... the mechanics suffer worse than we do: they're > trying to make a living fixing those things!! :) > > unca joel > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:07:03 EDT Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Rear disks in a Vanagon Comments: To: kitzmann@exis.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/27/01 8:27:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kitzmann@EXIS.NET writes: << I've been playing around with the idea of putting disks on the rear of the van. I haven't heard of anybody doing this, any thoughts from the list? >> Dave K, LIke MIke Miller says...benT. Go to: http://hometown.aol.com/bentbtstr8/vanagoncafereardiscbrakeproject.html I have not updated the site in a while but you should be able to get he gist of the project. Have since settled on an RX7 Turbo rear caliper w/ parking brakes. Will update the site soon as I get the adapter made. Don't try this at home, kids. Any brake work shoud be performed by an automotive professional familiar with brakes. For offroad use only. End of my disclaimer. BenT Vanagon Cafe all rights reserved ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:18:58 -0400 Reply-To: jhlauterbach Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: jhlauterbach Subject: Re: 85 Vanagon Kaput! Comments: To: Peter Brandt I have been there with my '84. Take a look at the connector between the end of the FI cable and the ECU. Connectors need to be squeaky clean. I have also had same type of problem with bad AFM and bad Hall detector. John Lauterbach Macon, GA '84 7-passenger ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Brandt" To: Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 12:55 PM Subject: 85 Vanagon Kaput! Kaput! My 85 Vanagon has always run like a finely oiled sewing machine, but the other day it gave me a problem. While going along at 35 or so, it just quit, kaput! It would turn over, but not start - I was in a dangerous location, so I called for a tow. Once back home, and after an hour or so, it fired right up and seems to be running fine again?! Can anyone offer any suggestions on where to start? I'm hesitant on taking it out again for fear of this happening again. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Herr Brandt- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:27:43 EDT Reply-To: WarmerWagen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Keezer Subject: Re: 85 Vanagon Kaput! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_34.1cf48283.290c72bf_boundary" --part1_34.1cf48283.290c72bf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This just happened to me two days ago on the freeway. No ignition lights (oil, alt, temp). But the engine would turn over. It was the ignition switch. I replaced it and everything is fine. To access it, remove the steering column cover and you can unplug the switch cable and hot-wire the car very easy-.you need the key in the ignition turned to on to keep the steering wheel unlocked. This may be the source of your problem. Robert K 1982 Westfalia --part1_34.1cf48283.290c72bf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This just happened to me two days ago on the freeway. No ignition lights (oil, alt, temp). But the engine would turn over.

It was the ignition switch.

I replaced it and everything is fine.
To access it, remove the steering column cover and you can unplug the switch cable and hot-wire the car very easy-.you need the key in the ignition turned to on to keep the steering wheel unlocked.
This may be the source of your problem.

Robert K
1982 Westfalia --part1_34.1cf48283.290c72bf_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:35:41 -0700 Reply-To: Steve Hoge Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Hoge Subject: Fitting Dunlop Radial Rover in spare carrier? MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Hi all - I've got 5 new Dunlop Radial Rovers (27x8.50R14) for my '89 Syncro and they feel just great so far (50 miles.) However, I got a shock when I went to pick them up and the tire guys said they couldn't get the spare carrier closed on the 5th one. What?!? I thought these were "EZ-fit" on the Vanagon, but they're wider than my old Yokohamas, and the carrier won't clamp down far enough to get the bolt to thread in. I could see that the sidewall interferes with the box around the shift linkage unless you cheat the tire rearward a bit, which is feasible. However, once you do that it still seems like it's hanging up on something, and I need at least another inch of clearance. Do I have to do some heinous bending of the metal bars above the carrier that are supposed to clamp the tire down from above? Also, the tire sidewall looks like it's in contact with the rubber coolant hoses - is that kosher? What's the trick to getting these to fit? -Steve ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:24:27 -0700 Reply-To: mark drillock Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mark drillock Subject: Transmission Ratios, Diesels, Conversions Comments: To: FrankGRUN@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Frank, I guess it all depends on which set of engineers you have an affinity for. Look at the gearing choices of the VW engineers who actually were responsible for putting the gas inline 4 engine into production Vanagons. Don't expect to see 4 speeds with diesel r+p ratios (5.83, 5.43). They did NOT choose such low gearing. I believe 4.83 is what they mostly used, a waterboxer ratio. Also offered 4.57 AFAIK. Were they brushing aside their own engineering data? And yes, if a mere 60 mph is your intended highway cruising speed then the diesel r+p ratios are useable. I just got back from a 1200 mile interstate trip in my 4.57 r+p TD Vanagon. I did not see any passenger vehicles traveling at such a low speed except uphill. Who in God's name would install a Tiico conversion and then drive at such obstructionist speeds on long trips? Only a masochist would hold 60 mph for hours on I5 with semis constantly running up their butts at 70 mph. "The most efficient utilization of an engine" is not always the primary consideration. Sometimes real world factors interrupt the dreaming. Mark Frank Grunthaner wrote: > .............. > Even though I'm in complete agreement with Alistair Bell's latest post, this > discussion about the obvious undesirability of the diesel transmission for I4 > engine conversions has still stimulated my latent hemorrhoids again. And > while I suspect that the majority of the adherents to this pseudo-wisdom will > brush aside engineering data as simply obscuring the real understanding, I > will try again to offer a few terse (really!) comments. > >............. > Final observations. If you don’t trust the engineers, go reduce the > longevity, minimize the performance of your conversion and gain almost half a > mile per gallon by swapping in the 4.57. Otherwise, enjoy the performance of > the 5.86. These observations are really due to the relatively unique design > of VW’s I4 engine family. The torque curve is nearly flat (as compared to the > highly peaked performance of American Iron and Japanese spinners). This > indicates that the volumetric efficiency of the 8V engines is a very minor > function of rpm. The 1.9L WB is much more peaked. Much of this comes from the > cam and the intake runner design. The 16V VW engines also have strongly > peaked torque curves. > ............... > The most efficient utilization of an engine is attained when its torque > maximum is achieved at the most desirable operating condition. From my > perspective, cruising in top gear at 60 mph is pretty close to a good optimal > operating condition. So, for the 2.0L Air Cooled engine, the 4.57 trans is > ideal with stock skins. For the 1.8L Digifant, the optimum would be the 5.43 > regular diesel trans with 215/75x15 tires. The 2.0L I4 would be best with the > 5.86 trans and stock tires, while the 2.0L Turbo is well matched to the 4.57 > transaxle with 215/75x15 wheels/tires. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 18:41:08 -0400 Reply-To: Matt F Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matt F Subject: FS -Front air dam, from 91' GL MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0024_01C15F16.F1277A20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C15F16.F1277A20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am selling the front air dam from a 91' GL . This is the air dam that = mounts under the front bumper and wraps around the sides. There are (5) = pieces total (2 sides,2 front,1 center connector). It is black plastic = in good shape, No cracks but has been scraped. I'm asking $40 plus = shipping. Paypal preferred. Matt F ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C15F16.F1277A20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am selling the front air = dam from a 91'=20 GL .  This is the air dam that mounts under the front bumper = and wraps=20 around the sides. There are (5) pieces total (2 sides,2 front,1 = center=20 connector).  It is black plastic in good shape, No cracks but has = been=20 scraped.  I'm asking $40 plus shipping.  Paypal=20 preferred.
 
Matt F
------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C15F16.F1277A20-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:35:31 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? Comments: To: Joel Sell MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel... I did the half lilley about a year ago. Robert Lilley helped me acquire all the necessary parts. I went with the 1.4's. It was my understanding that the 1.25's were what Robert suggested if you were not going to do the chip upgrade. Anyway, below is a list of parts and suppliers by Robert... contact Robert (wolfvan88@aol.com) for more information. My rocking ratio rollers were made by Pauter. I chose them over Berg... can't remember why exactly. Pauter's were $300 and some odd dollars if I recall. Robert sent me the Cromoly push rods and chip at the same time, and Bosh quads as well. I've had good ;uck with the quads, but some listees insist that the triple tips and better for the WBX... may try them next time. Also I went with the Stebro stainless steel muffler instead of the dynamax... it's a bit pricey (the stebro), but it's nice. I can't tell you how much I love my upgrade... It's so easy to do and makes such a difference. I can't believe more people don't do it. It's not even that expensive, especially if you can get a group price discount. Good luck. Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com <<>> It depends on your budget as to what ratio rockers to use and IF you plan to rebuild in the future. I would use the 1.25 ratio IF you are not going to add the Aussie ECU upgrade chip. The chip allows the ECU to better handle the changes in airflow that the higher ratio rockers add. CB Performance upgrade from stock parts: 1628 Cromoly Push Rods 90,000 PSI $44.95 1665 Rhino 1.25 Ratio Rockers $119.95 1642 Rhino Feet (Porsche 911 style valve adjusting screws) $32.95 1643 High Performance Rocker Shafts $31.95 1534 Rocker Arm pads $4.95 1644 Rocker Arm Spacer kit $10.95 1691 Clip On Valve Covers $16.95--- YOU WILL NEED a bigger rocker cover if you use ratios rockers!! Talk to David at: david@clubvw.org.au He sells the chip. If you are adding the chip then 1.3 or 1.4 ratio depends if you plan to rebuild in the future AND change the cam profile to increase the lift. IF you are NOT going to change the cam use 1.4 If you are going to change the cam us 1.3. There are several different brands to choose from: Berg, CB Performance, Autocrat, Pauter. There are two different styles the slider and roller tip. Pauter is the only one I know that has the roller tip. This has a roller that contacts the valve tip and rolls across the tip rather than sliding across the tip. I like the roller tip because it reduces the friction on the valve tip that leads to the stem wearing out the guide. I also like the fact that these rockers are light weight aluminum billets that reduce the rocker weight and eliminates the need for heavier valve springs. When you increase lift you also need to increase valve spring pressure to keep from going into valve float, but when you do, you increase cam and lifter wear and reduce HP. Reducing the valve train weight that the spring has to push, increases the working spring pressure and keeps you from having to go to heavier springs, so you get the benefit of ratio rockers without the penalty of heavier springs. Costs are @300 ~330 for a set of rockers. Look in VW mags for the best prices. I think that the Berg set ($400) includes push rods. The other sets you need to add cut to fit Cromoly push rods. These are stronger and lighter than stock the steel. Cost ~$40 to $60. As far as muffler, I choose the A-1 Performance 12470 Northwest Freeway Houston, Texas 77092 Phone - (716) 889-2786 Fax - (716) 889-5218 http://www.a-1performance.com/super_turbo/index.htm Information: http://www.a-1performance.com/super_turbo/index.htm Part Number 17783 http://www.a-1performance.com/super_turbo/mufflers/super_turbo_mufflers_page 2. htm Cost: http://www.a-1performance.com/super_turbo/mufflers/super_turbo_mufflers_pric e. htmParts Listl DynoMax Turbo Muffler It is basically a bolt in with you needing to get: A three bolt European flange (the muffler comes with a two bolt) Bend the stock mounts done a little to allow the muffler to fit. As far as tail pipe you can have one made, use a forty-five degree 2" extension pipe (from Autozone) and a single Monza tip. That requires no welding or expensive shop time. Total cost is @$100 K&N Source for K&N airfilter: Performance International 696 West 18th Street Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-800-522-1672 http://www.performanceintl.com/ Email: performanceintl@virtualrep.comParts List E-2475 K&N Air Filter 1 $27.42 (I think it is a few dollars more now) 99-5050 K&N Service Kit 1 $8.95 Shipping 1 $6.50 $42.87 Use the Bosch Quad tip plugs I am using the platinum quad tip plugs. They do not make a plug specifically for the WBX engine, but plug #4477 is the # to get. Make sure all FI parts are operating correctly, intakes are tight and gaskets do not leak. Air runner Robert ----- Original Message ----- From: Joel Sell To: Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 6:33 PM Subject: Parts suppliers for "Half Liley"? > Volks, > this weekend I'll be tearing down my 2.1L Carat's engine to replace the > head gaskets and do the JBweld fix on the heads. While I have the heads > off, I want to do the half liley. I just don't know where to get the parts. > Ratio rocker arms? > Chromoly pushrods? > Bosh Platinum 4 spark plugs? > Please help. > Joel > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:10:14 -0400 Reply-To: Robert Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Donalds Subject: Re: B. Bobs 2.1 main bearings, one more question Comments: To: Kenneth D Lewis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0093_01C15F23.63C910A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0093_01C15F23.63C910A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Kenneth D Lewis=20 To: bostneng@FCL-US.NET=20 Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 2:44 PM Subject: Re: B. Bobs 2.1 main bearings, one more question Bob; OK. I measured the bearing ID( in the case) and the crank's = OD. Subtraction should give me the clearance. What is tolerance here? = How about differences in orthaganol ID measuments i.e. out-of-round?=20 Anybody know of some good WEB sites with this info? TIA Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ Ken I looked in the VW without guesswork book for out of round = (orthogonal) dimensions for the crank rod and main journals it says the = cranks on the type 1 and 4 engines can be out of round as much as .0012 = ths=20 I dont often see that kind of wear on 2.1 cranks they are for the = most part mint or junk. I would say that the crank is ok if its less = than .0005 ths small or out of round more than that I would consider not = using it. Regrinding has not been an option until the past few weeks I = now have in stock some .010 mains for a std case=20 The 2.1 blocks tend to shift and also get smaller at the center = main bore. The 2.1 main bearings are made with an huge oiling depression = at the case seam. While thats great for feeding the crank oil that makes = it realy hard to get a good reading at the parting line of the case with = a bore gauge. I have not found specs on the 2.1 cases in any of the = crank spec books or the VW info. The 2.1 case is often out of round as = is the the 1.9 and the type 4 case due to the cases alignment dowel pins = (not the main bearing dowel pins) gaining some play over the years I = have found that a block of wood and a wack of the hammer can realign the = case halfs so the measurements can be taken. The main bearings can help = (not cure) align the case as the case is closed with the bearings in = place. I have more than once seen the bearing measurements show that the = main bearing bore is still not round due to the case shift. I would say = that if you measure the main bearings in the case with it torqued and = they do not go lower than the minimum clearance in any one place you are = good to go. I would add to that statement that it is realy hard to = measure less than .001ths and be consistant every time so check it more = than once then check it the next day again. =20 Bob Donalds http://www.bostonengine.com=20 as always all rights reserved =20 I=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0093_01C15F23.63C910A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
 ------=_NextPart_000_0093_01C15F23.63C910A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:41:06 -0400 Reply-To: Robert Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Donalds Subject: Re: main bearings for the 1.9 Comments: cc: rior@GARLIC.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_009E_01C15F27.B3C0BA00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C15F27.B3C0BA00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rio wrote=20 Hi everyone: I am a bit confused as to how to determine which main bearing set to = order. My crankshaft is a "red dot" unit (from an 85 1.9 liter engine). The mains measure 1) 58.775 mm 2) 54.972 mm 3) not checked yet 4) 40.005 mm My rod journals all measure right about 54.991mm. Any help will be appreciated. Who stocks bearings, btw? Thanks Rio Rio=20 the 1.9 mains are not made at this point by Kolbenschmidt and have not = been made for over 2 years=20 the bug bearings will work for all but the # 1 thrust bearing for that I = have been using a custom made bearing to build the 1.9 engines. The 1.9 = cases for the most part need to be align bored. I saw your post on the = oil pressure problem so be sure to measure the crank bore in the case = and the big ends of the rods this is where your low oil pressure problem = is coming from. I stock only align bore bearings for the 1.9 because = thats all I use=20 Bob Donalds=20 as always all rights reserved http://www.bostonengine.com=20 ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C15F27.B3C0BA00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Rio wrote =
Hi everyone:
I am a = bit confused as=20 to how to determine which main bearing set to order.
My crankshaft is = a "red=20 dot" unit (from an 85 1.9 liter engine).
The mains = measure
1)=20 58.775 mm
2) 54.972 mm
3) not checked yet
4) 40.005 mm
My = rod=20 journals all measure right about 54.991mm.
Any help will be=20 appreciated.
Who stocks bearings, = btw?
Thanks
Rio
Rio
the 1.9 mains are not made at this = point by=20 Kolbenschmidt and have not been made for over 2 years
the bug bearings will work for all but = the # 1=20 thrust bearing for that I have been using a custom made=20 bearing to build the 1.9 = engines. The=20 1.9 cases for the most part need to be align bored. I saw your = post on=20 the oil pressure problem so be sure to measure the crank bore in = the case=20 and the big ends of the rods this is where your low oil pressure problem = is coming from. I stock only align bore bearings for the 1.9 = because thats=20 all I use
Bob = Donalds 
as always all rights = reserved
http://www.bostonengine.com 
------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C15F27.B3C0BA00-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:57:21 EDT Reply-To: Clubsb@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Brancolino Subject: PIC of vent cap MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Attached is a pic of the vent cape i made using a duct cover from home depot , SS footman loops and velcro wire ties it works great holds up in carwash and many miles! Frank Trenton, NJ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:32:59 -0400 Reply-To: Robert Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Donalds Subject: Re: 1.25 or 1.4 rocker arms? Comments: cc: jsell@PHILA.K12.PA.US MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00BA_01C15F2E.F304D8C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00BA_01C15F2E.F304D8C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joel Sell wrote=20 . I have checked the archives on these questions, and have read = conflicting answers. 1) I've read that the 1.4 rocker arms are good to use, but I've also = read that the "ramps are too steep" and can cause valve damage. Which statement is true? Joel=20 I think that both statements are true. You need to a stronger spring to = keep the valve from free falling back onto the valve seat because of the = increased valve speed the ratio rockers offer. I have seen the guides = close around the valve due to the retainer striking the guide when ratio = rocker are used on bug engines =20 Bob 2)It appears that Type 1 rocker arms are the way to go, but do I need to buy just the rocker arms, or the whole shaft and assembly? Will the T1 rocker arms just slide on my waterboxer rocker shafts? I'm also planning = on getting the swivel foot adjusters. The type 1 rockers would be needed to use the 8mm swivel foot adjusters = and the shaft size is the same =20 my dyno testing of ratio rockers on stock bug engines showed that the = engine gained 6 hp with stock springs above 3000 rpm and lost 1/2 of = that when the heavy duty springs where added. The vanagon engine does = not need top end horse power it needs low end and mid range increases = the higher air flow at lower lifts provides that.=20 =20 I posted this back in june you can see what the extra lift will give you = in air flow then compare that to the heads with the bigger valves. I have been building a 2.1 engine for my own 85 camper and along with = the usual upgrades of the reground OEM cam with more duration, a little = more piston skirt clearance and some major head work. I decided to try a = set of 3mm larger valves and larger harder valve seats. After all the = work to get larger valves and seats into a pair of AMC heads and doing = the high flow valve job I sent the heads out to have them flow tested on = a flow bench. The flow bench measures cubic feet of air moving threw = each port at a given valve lift. Some of you might recall that I had = some flow testing done when I started doing high flow valve jobs on = stock heads with varying degrees of porting work.=20 Flow bench test results 1 stock AMC head intake port=20 2 ported and polished AMC head stock valve intake port=20 3 Boston Bobs big valve AMC head minor porting now in Bobs camper=20 CFM. ------------------------------------------------------------------- = =20 Lift NO.1intake NO.2 intake NO.3 intake =20 .050 24.8 33.0 34.8 .100 47.1 52.2 57.3 .200 89.6 91.4 108.4 .250 115.4 116.7 132.8 =20 .300 125.3 128.5 145.8 .350 137.6 145.3 171.4 .400 144.9 158.8 181.3 this is above = stock lift=20 .450 147.8 174.1 186.0 =20 .500 154.6 179.0 190.6 Bob Donalds=20 http://www.bostonengine.com as always all right reserved=20 ------=_NextPart_000_00BA_01C15F2E.F304D8C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Joel Sell wrote =
. I have checked the = archives on these=20 questions, and have read conflicting answers.
1) I've read that the = 1.4=20 rocker arms are good to use, but I've also read
that the "ramps are = too=20 steep" and can cause valve damage.
Which statement is=20 true?
Joel =
I think that both = statements are true.=20 You need to a stronger spring to keep the valve from free falling = back onto=20 the valve seat because of the increased valve speed the ratio = rockers=20 offer. I have seen the guides close around the valve due to the retainer = striking the guide when ratio rocker are used on bug=20 engines  
Bob

2)It appears that = Type 1 rocker=20 arms are the way to go, but do I need to
buy just the rocker arms, or = the=20 whole shaft and assembly? Will the T1
rocker arms just slide on my = waterboxer=20 rocker shafts? I'm also planning on
getting the swivel foot=20 adjusters.

The type 1 rockers would be needed = to use the=20 8mm swivel foot adjusters and the shaft size is the=20 same            &nbs= p;   

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Kenneth D = Lewis=20
Sent: Thursday, October 25, = 2001 2:44=20 PM
Subject: Re: B. Bobs 2.1 main = bearings,=20 one more question

Bob;
        OK. I measured the = bearing ID(=20 in the case) and the crank's OD. Subtraction should give me the = clearance.=20 What is tolerance here? How about differences in orthaganol ID = measuments i.e.=20 out-of-round?
        Anybody know of some = good WEB=20 sites with this info?
TIA
Ken Lewis
86 Crewcab,60 356
http://Neksiwel.20m.com/

Ken
    I looked in the VW = without=20 guesswork book for out of round (orthogonal) dimensions for the crank = rod and=20 main journals it says the cranks on the type 1 and 4 engines can = be out=20 of round as much as .0012 ths
I dont often see that kind of wear = on  2.1=20 cranks they are for the most part mint or junk. I would say that = the=20 crank is ok if its less than .0005 ths small or out of round more = than=20 that I would consider not using it. Regrinding=20 has not been an option until the past few weeks I now have in = stock some=20 .010 mains for a std case
    The 2.1 = blocks tend to=20 shift and also get smaller at the center main bore. The 2.1 main = bearings are=20 made with an huge oiling depression at the case seam. While thats = great=20 for feeding the crank oil that makes it realy hard to get a good = reading at=20 the parting line of the case with a bore gauge. I have not = found specs on=20 the 2.1 cases in any of the crank spec books or the VW info. The 2.1 = case is=20 often out of round as is the the 1.9 and the type 4 case due to=20 the cases alignment dowel pins (not the main bearing dowel = pins)=20 gaining some play over the years I have found that a block of wood and = a wack=20 of the hammer can realign the case halfs so the measurements can = be=20 taken. The main bearings can help (not cure) align the case as = the case=20 is closed with the bearings in place. I have more than once seen the = bearing=20 measurements show that the main bearing bore is still not round due to = the=20 case shift. I would say that if you measure the main bearings in = the case=20 with it torqued and they do not go lower than the minimum = clearance=20 in any one place you are good to go. I would add to that statement = that it is=20 realy hard to measure less than .001ths and be consistant every = time so=20 check it more than once then check it the next day again.
  
Bob Donalds
http://www.bostonengine.com 
as always all rights = reserved
    
I =
my dyno testing of = ratio=20 rockers on stock bug engines showed that the engine gained 6 hp = with stock=20 springs above 3000 rpm and lost 1/2 of that when the heavy duty = springs=20 where added. The vanagon engine does not need top end horse power it = needs low=20 end and mid range increases the higher air flow at lower lifts provides=20 that. 
   
I posted this back = in june you=20 can see what the extra lift will give you in air flow then compare that = to the=20 heads with the bigger valves.
 
 I have been building a 2.1 engine for my = own 85=20 camper and along with the usual upgrades of the reground OEM cam with = more=20 duration, a little more piston skirt clearance and some major head work. = I=20 decided to try a set of 3mm larger valves and larger harder valve seats. = After=20 all the work to get larger valves and seats into a pair of AMC heads and = doing=20 the high flow valve job I sent the heads out to have them flow tested on = a flow=20 bench. The flow bench measures cubic feet of air moving threw each port = at a=20 given valve lift. Some of you might recall that I had some flow = testing=20 done when I started doing high flow valve jobs on stock heads = with varying=20 degrees of porting work.
 
Flow bench test results
1 stock AMC head intake port
2 ported and polished AMC head stock valve = intake port=20
3 Boston Bobs big valve AMC head minor = porting now in=20 Bobs camper 
 
          =       =20 CFM.
------------------------------------------------------------= -------           =  =20
 Lift        &n= bsp; =20 NO.1intake  NO.2 intake  NO.3 = intake    =20
.050         &n= bsp;=20 24.8           &nb= sp;33.0           =   =20 34.8
.100         &n= bsp;=20 47.1           =20 52.2           &nb= sp; =20 57.3
.200         &n= bsp;=20 89.6           =20 91.4           &nb= sp; 108.4
.250         11= 5.4           116.= 7           =20 132.8        
.300        =20 125.3          =20 128.5           =20 145.8
.350        =20 137.6           14= 5.3           &nbs= p;171.4
.400        = ; 144.9        &nbs= p; =20 158.8           =20 181.3        this is above stock = lift=20
.450        =20 147.8           17= 4.1=20           =20 186.0       
.500        =20 154.6          =20 179.0           =20 190.6
 
 
Bob Donalds
http://www.bostonengine.com
as always all right reserved
------=_NextPart_000_00BA_01C15F2E.F304D8C0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:01:01 -0700 Reply-To: David Jaffe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Jaffe Subject: TDI availability in the USA (info from European Car mag) Comments: To: syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Folks, I love my '97 Passat TDI. This 90bhp diesel engine makes a mid-size car surprisingly perky & gives 44mpg in mixed driving (800 miles between fill-ups). I've read wistfully about the larger, more powerful TDI engines available in Europe, and wondered why I can't buy one of these engines. My envy led me to two theories: criminal stupidity to corporate conspiracy.... Now, I found an objective answer (which doesn't imply that either of my theories were wrong, BTW) in the Nov '01 issue of European Car, in its review of the 2002 Audi A6: "An unfortunate set of circumstances - legal roadblocks, fuel quality, price - have kept VWAG's wonderful TDI technology from reaching the U.S. market. Combining healthy torque with high fuel mileage, the TDI comes in three flavors: a new 1.9-liter four with pump-injector fuel injection and an output of 130bhp; a new 2.6-liver V6 with 155bhp; and a more powerful 2.5 V6 outputting 180bhp. Look for some of this technology to come to the U.S. around 2004 when the sulfur content of our fuel is reduced and emissions levels can be met." Sign me up - I want one in my Syncro! Regards, David Jaffe 1986 Syncro West'faux'lia Portland, Oregon ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:20:32 -0700 Reply-To: Pat Callaghan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Pat Callaghan Subject: 82 Westy for Sale Comments: To: type2@type2.com, Wetwesties MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, Due to financial problems I am forced to sell my 82 westy. I am in need to sell this quick. Here are the particulars. 82 air-cooled Vanagon Westfalia. 2.0L FI engine. The following have been replaced in the last year. Tires, windshield & seal, propane regulator, clutch, pilot bearing, clutch slave cylinder, muffler, catalytic converter, cold start valve, AFM, injector seals, air tube seals, all small vacuum lines, fuel tank sender, vent lines & grommets, front brakes with hardware kits, fuel filter, plugs, wires, Pertronix, air filter. I have these & many more receipts for this van. All the camping equipment works great. Fridge lights quickly & works in all modes. Propane tank is full & ready to camp. All screens, curtains & cushions are in very good shape. There are a few dents in the body. The link below will take you to all the pictures I have. If anyone is interested please p-mail me as soon as possible. Thanks. Pat Callaghan 82 Westy Portland, OR. http://www.cybcon.com/~patcal ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 22:29:06 EDT Reply-To: Awf986@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "John \"Shaggy\" Donovan" Subject: Diesel leak MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit is the metal coolant pipe that runs underneath the van in an 82' diesel the same diameter as one in an 86'? my 82' just started leaking tonight, like there is no tomorrow. I am stripping out my 86', and would like to use that pipe. Help!!!!! Shaggy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:37:08 -0700 Reply-To: chris Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: chris Subject: engine heater In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:44:31 -0700 Reply-To: chris Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: chris Subject: engine heater In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii hello, sorry about that first post. hit ENTER accidentaly. i am looking for a wasser boxer engine heater. does any one have one around they would like to sell? tried ordering one from the BD a while back but they had no more. dealer also says not avaliable. i would also be interested in a vw aircooled engine heater. not the one that bolts to the circular sump plate but one that attaches to the case at 2 or 3 points. i had one of these and it worked quite well untill it burned out. any leads would be great. please p mail me with price and location. thanks. chris montana 87 vanagon syncro 7-seater 82 vanagon diesel 9-seater __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:00:34 -0700 Reply-To: Rennie Wible Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rennie Wible Subject: Re: TIICO Comments: To: WESTYTRAVER@CS.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I compared the Tiico filter with the filters I have at the dealer. By all comparisons, they look to be the same as the A-3 Jettas, P/N 034 115 561A. Rumors at VW say that even this filter will update soon to the A-4 style, P/N 06A 115 561B. The only difference between these 2 is the location of the check valve. Rennie VolksDragon@earthlink.net Peyton Cramer VW Dan Winget wrote: > > Hello tic owners > > What oil filter are you using? The # on the filter is not a good U. S > number. I do not want to screw anything up by using the wrong filter > > Dan ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 22:14:31 -0500 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: was:engine heater (NVC) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit chris wrote: > hello, > sorry about that first post. hit ENTER accidentaly. > i am looking for a wasser boxer engine heater. does > any one have one around they would like to sell? tried > ordering one from the BD a while back but they had no > more. dealer also says not avaliable. i would also be > interested in a vw aircooled engine heater. not the > one that bolts to the circular sump plate but one that > attaches to the case at 2 or 3 points. i had one of > these and it worked quite well untill it burned out. > any leads would be great. please p mail me with price > and location. thanks. > chris > montana > 87 vanagon syncro 7-seater > 82 vanagon diesel 9-seater > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. > http://personals.yahoo.com Sorry I don't have a lead for you, but your post reminded me of a for-sale ad that I saw last summer in Barrow, Alaska. Someone had a pickup truck for sale and said that it had 5 heaters. If I recall they were: block, crankcase, radiator, transmission, and interior. About 99% of the vehicles in Barrow are 4WD. Had an interesting ride out to the point in a Hummer. I was impressed with the ability to change the pressure in the tires while driving. Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:23:49 -0700 Reply-To: Rennie Wible Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rennie Wible Subject: Re: TDI availability in the USA (info from European Car mag) Comments: To: David Jaffe MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit VW actually has a few of these pump-injector diesels here in the US, but current emissions/drag tests aren't good enough for them to be legal here yet. Leon Korkin dropped a German camper magazine by last week that shows Eurovan 2.5 TDI syncros, even 0 - 80kmh in 22 seconds!! Strangely enough, the syncro is 2 seconds faster than the fwd. This mag also had info on the pump-injector diesels, which had something close to 50% more hp than the regular 2.5TDI. These are designated with a red or blue 'I' in the TDI badge. I took a picture of a 4motion Passat TDI (pump-injector style), manual trans, driving to work one morning. A contact at VW said he got all 4 wheels spinning on it in a test drive. The pump-injector set-up apparently uses a separate pump for each cylinder. This is required due to the 140,000 psi injectors. Obviously, no metal line could withstand that kind of pressure. If anyone is interested, I could post the info from the German mag. Unfortunately, it is all in German. Rennie VolksDragon@earthlink.net Peyton Cramer VW David Jaffe wrote: > > Folks, > > I love my '97 Passat TDI. This 90bhp diesel engine makes a mid-size car > surprisingly perky & gives 44mpg in mixed driving (800 miles between > fill-ups). I've read wistfully about the larger, more powerful TDI engines > available in Europe, and wondered why I can't buy one of these engines. My > envy led me to two theories: criminal stupidity to corporate conspiracy.... > > Now, I found an objective answer (which doesn't imply that either of my > theories were wrong, BTW) in the Nov '01 issue of European Car, in its > review of the 2002 Audi A6: > > "An unfortunate set of circumstances - legal roadblocks, fuel quality, > price - have kept VWAG's wonderful TDI technology from reaching the U.S. > market. Combining healthy torque with high fuel mileage, the TDI comes in > three flavors: a new 1.9-liter four with pump-injector fuel injection and an > output of 130bhp; a new 2.6-liver V6 with 155bhp; and a more powerful 2.5 V6 > outputting 180bhp. Look for some of this technology to come to the U.S. > around 2004 when the sulfur content of our fuel is reduced and emissions > levels can be met." > > Sign me up - I want one in my Syncro! > > Regards, > > David Jaffe > 1986 Syncro West'faux'lia > Portland, Oregon ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 00:20:35 EDT Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: TIICO / What You Don't See Can Hurt You Comments: To: volksdragon@earthlink.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/27/01 10:55:51 PM, volksdragon@EARTHLINK.NET writes: << I compared the Tiico filter with the filters I have at the dealer. By all comparisons, they look to be the same as the A-3 Jettas, >> While the filters about which you are talking may very well be the same, the one spec which cannot be determined by a visual inspection is the bypass pressure. I know of one vendor who was selling a bigger and badder filter which fitted the stock mounting. Unfortunately, the bypass pressure was lower than the stock spec pressure. Instead of improved oil filtering, in use this filter had the exact opposite effect with most of the oil being shunted around the element. So, the crucial question is: are the bypass pressure ranges the same for both filters? Rich ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:47:20 -0700 Reply-To: Michael Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Snow Subject: Re: Diesel leak In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The plastic pipes on the later vans are larger in diameter than the steel versions. Mike Snow -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of John "Shaggy" Donovan Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 19:29 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Diesel leak is the metal coolant pipe that runs underneath the van in an 82' diesel the same diameter as one in an 86'? my 82' just started leaking tonight, like there is no tomorrow. I am stripping out my 86', and would like to use that pipe. Help!!!!! Shaggy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:52:39 -0700 Reply-To: Dan Arnfeld Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Arnfeld Subject: 87 Westy for Sale MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15F31.B61A55E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15F31.B61A55E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 1987 Westfalia for sale. 4-speed, Air Conditioning clean, clean, clean! 73,000 miles in great shape with all maintenance records as well as service books and the obligatory spare Vanagon parts! Located in Southern California and drivable anywhere! Pictures on request. Please email directly if interested. Dan Arnfeld SoCal ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15F31.B61A55E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

1987 Westfalia for = sale.  4-speed, Air Conditioning = clean, clean, clean! 73,000 miles in great shape with all maintenance records as well = as service books and the obligatory spare Vanagon parts!  Located in = Southern California and drivable = anywhere!  Pictures on = request.  Please email directly if = interested.

 

Dan Arnfeld

SoCal

 

------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C15F31.B61A55E0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 22:06:10 -0700 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: diesel oil pressure gauge Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Howdy- Wandering through the pick-n-pull junkyard today there was a Porsche 924 in among the other Audis and VWs. It had an irresistable set of three gauges in the center console--an oil pressure gauge, a clock, and a voltmeter--all VDO, and mounted in a nice brown plastic thingy that might be adaptable to the Vanagon. Having seen firsthand the importance of good oil karma during my 1.6NA diesel rebuild, I want to keep close tabs on the oil pressure from now on. My questions: 1) can the VDO gauge get enough useful information from the existing oil pressure idiot light sending unit? This would make life easy. 2) failing that, should I go back to the junque yard and yank the oil pressure sending unit from the Porsche, keeping in mind that the 924 had an Audi engine and may just fit my 1.6NA diesel? It would take a seriously demented schmuck to be that familiar with these two bastard stepchildren of automotive history (Diesel Vanagon and Porsche 924) :) Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '01 Xootr Scooter _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:52:16 -1000 Reply-To: Ed Sato Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ed Sato Subject: Re: Conspiracy Theory - The Skye is Phalling!!!! Comments: To: jwalker17@EARTHLINK.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your right on the money there Unca Joel. You win the cool million! Too bad Fridays past though. Everythings about money and its more for them and less for us. Aloha, Ed ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:54:27 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Rear disks in a Vanagon Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I've been playing around with the idea of putting disks on the rear of the >van. I haven't heard of anybody doing this, any thoughts from the list? >Dave K. Hansen Motorsport in der Vaterland makes kits to fit various brakes to the T3. I will eventually be buying their kit to fit front discs/calipers from a Porsche 993, or custom brakes to fit my 16" CLK wheels. These brakes will be killer ones, capable of stopping ultraquick (hope it doesn't do front-wheelies!). Hansen is currently working on a rear-disc kit too. e-mail Jens Hansen website The front-disc kit is DM1300; buy the calipers and rotors (full set of front AND rear) for $1000 or less from a US wrecker. Only the 993 discs fit the VW stud-pattern, but custom kits are available with any stud-pattern and offset. Oettinger's 4-wheel-disc kit is only rated by the TUV for about 180kmh. They are also utilitarian-ugly, whereas the Hansen ones are the sort you want wheels with big holes in to see them through! I can forward jpegs of Hansen's and Oettinger's kits to anyone who is interested. The Australian rear-disc kit (made for T2 and T3 vans) I am told is so flimsy it sounds outright dangerous; the caliper carrier is so weak it may twist and jam the brakes on. Andrew Grebneff 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand ph 64 (3) 473-8863 fax 64 (3) 479-7527 84 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with SVX engine & Porsche G50 trans) RWD 87 Corolla 1.8 DX CE80 diesel sedan 89 Corolla 1.8 DX CE96 diesel van/wagon 89 Corona 2.0 D Select CT170 diesel sedan 92 Toyota Estima Lucida (=narrow-body Previa) 2.2 turbodiesel RWD ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 03:44:38 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Removing rear brake drums? In-Reply-To: <3BDA1DD7.7126F04A@netzero.net> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit How do I check the rear brakes? Don't tell me I have to remove that huge castle nut! I measured it at 1 13/16, is that right? What is the best tool for the job? Pipe wrench? I don't even have one but seriously...What is the minimal way to do it? Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 05:10:09 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: Gnarlodious 's message of Sun, 28 Oct 2001 03:44:38 -0700 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Ms.Gnarl, Don't even look at those nut's ! Look on the drums, and more than likely, the wil be two 10 mm headed bolts on the face of the drum's. Remove these, and the drums just might pop off. If not, heat the center of the drum, just around the hub, and then for sure they will come off. Ms. Gnarl scribbles; How do I check the rear brakes? Don't tell me I have to remove that huge castle nut! I measured it at 1 13/16, is that right? What is the best tool for the job? Pipe wrench? I don't even have one but seriously...What is the minimal way to do it? Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile- (Clementine) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:15:43 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Terry Kay In-Reply-To: <11225-3BDBE791-215@storefull-135.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Terry Kay spoke thus: > Look on the drums, and more than likely, the wil be two 10 mm headed > bolts on the face of the drum's. > Remove these, and the drums just might pop off. OK thanks, I did that but didn't know what should happen, it was tight on. Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 06:14:51 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: Sodium filled valves Comments: To: jhrodgers@CHARTER.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John; The stems on sodium filled Porsche valves (356) are twice in diameter as their VW counterpart. It would be quite a feat to accommodate the valve guides in the WBX head. Not sure if it is even necessary in a water cooled head. Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:12:48 -0500 John Rodgers writes: > Anybody know if there are sodium filled valves available that will > fit > the WBX heads. If so, what are the sources? > > Thanks, > > John Rodgers > 88 GL Driver > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 05:26:43 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: Gnarlodious 's message of Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:15:43 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit The drum center's have grown onto the hub------heat is the only answer. ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile- (Clementine) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 05:39:15 -0600 Reply-To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? In-Reply-To: <11225-3BDBEB73-234@storefull-135.iap.bryant.webtv.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit or remove the axle nut - not the worlds worst job either if you don't have torch access... Chris > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf > Of Terry Kay > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 5:27 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? > > > The drum center's have grown onto the hub------heat is the only answer. > > ______________ > |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ > | | | | > ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| > > Terry-- > 74 Campmobile- (Clementine) > 85 GL- (Delilah) > 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want > something you cannot have--- > > Than to have something you can't get rid of" > > (T.K.) > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 05:45:52 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser In-Reply-To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser 's message of Sun, 28 Oct 2001 05:39:15 -0600 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: Quoted-Printable MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Could be----- if in fact your not Charles Atlas,or Charline in this instance.!!:>) (Mary=A0Beth=A0and=A0Chris=A0Geiser) Date: Sun, Oct 28, 2001, 5:39am To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? or remove the axle nut - not the worlds worst job either if you don't have torch access... Chris -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Terry Kay Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 5:27 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? The drum center's have grown onto the hub------heat is the only answer. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =A0=A0=A0=A0 ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile- (Clementine) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:54:28 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Terry Kay In-Reply-To: <11228-3BDBEFF0-131@storefull-135.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Let's say I do want to remove tha axle (grease bearings, etc) the original question applies. Entity Terry Kay spoke thus: > Could be----- if in fact your not Charles Atlas,or Charline in this > instance.!!:>) Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 06:11:43 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: Gnarlodious 's message of Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:54:28 -0700 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) OK, then heat the nut's up, and apply beaucouix down pressure and hope they come off. Or get yourself an air compressor of adequate size, and a 3/4 impact, and remove them this way---much easier, and a couple more dollars. Then be sure to return the nut's to their original torque spec's, to prevent the rear wheels and hubs from doing the loose hub mariga. No words of lubrication were mentioned in your original posting---new story. I went the most direct route. Ms. Gnarl scribbles; Let's say I do want to remove tha axle (grease bearings, etc) the original question applies. Entity Terry Kay spoke thus: Could be----- if in fact your not Charles Atlas,or Charline in this instance.!!:>) Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile- (Clementine) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:18:13 EST Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Gnarlodious@earthlink.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rachel, I hope you don't have the parking brakes on while you are trying this. It's an obvious step that many people forget. You could take your van to one of those chain stores which provide free brake inspections. They frequently remove the axle nut to inspect the brakes. They should have broken any rust out by then. If you want to try this yourself, as Terry said take out the two drum retaining bolts. Once you get them out, bang on the drum with a suitable mallet. That should loosen up most rust on the hub. If the drums have formed a ridge, the shoes will often get hung-up on these ridges and won't allow the drum to slide off easily. You can get around this by using an autobody slide hammer with a hook on the end. Hook the hammer around the perimeter of the drum and work your way around until the drum is released. This will usually result in destroying the shoes. Have some new ones handy before you try this. If you insist on taking the axle nut yourself, Get the biggest breaker bar in your arsenal of tools and a very long cheater bad. You may consider having someone sit in the van and apply the brakes while you attempt to apply the necessary torque to release that bolt. There are some specialty tools to handle that axle nut. IIRC a place called Station One and Kimco make in essence provides a geared arrangement which you can use a smaller ratchet to turn a big wheel to turn a small wheel used to turn the bigger socket. I've seen it demonstrated on bugs. Did that make sense? Don't know if they make it for the bigger bus nuts. There's also a large tool available which looks like a huge box wrench with no handle. has a hole for a breaker bar. You insert it over the nut. Attache a breaker bar. Then smack it with a hammer. Again, I don't know if they are available in the bigger bus nuts. BenT IN ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:52:38 -0500 Reply-To: Gary McEachern Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary McEachern Subject: Rear wheel shaft play Comments: To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed While removing the drums of my son's new syncro to inspect the brakes, I found a good 1/8"-3/16" axial (in-out) play on the wheel shaft. Before I decide to pull things apart I would like to know what the likely cause could be. Has this happened to anyone else? Gary Gary McEachern, Reading Ma. '90 Westy '87GL Wolfy Weekender SubaVanagon '87 Syncro '76 Camper _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 08:04:00 -0500 Reply-To: Gary McEachern Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary McEachern Subject: Syncro tank fuel sender Comments: To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I need to replace the fuel sender on an '87 Syncro. Is it possible to replace the sender without dropping the tank? I need both the sender and the connector that attaches to it. The connector rusted off the tank. Anyone have a good used sender and connector or should try to purchase these parts from a dealer? Gary Gary McEachern, Reading Ma. '90 Westy '87GL Wolfy Weekender SubaVanagon '87 Syncro '91 Subaru Legacy Sedan '93 Subaru Legacy Wagon '76 Camper '75 Spitfire _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 06:12:15 -0800 Reply-To: gregg and allison Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: gregg and allison Subject: FS: 1989 Westfalia GL Camper $14,450 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Execellent condition with lots of recent work. See the following address for more information. Must sell quickly. http://www.speakeasy.org/~ellins/camper ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 09:51:46 -0500 Reply-To: Robert Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Donalds Subject: Re: Sodium filled valves Comments: cc: jhrodgers@CHARTER.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00EB_01C15F96.284F3FE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01C15F96.284F3FE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable John Rodgers wrote Anybody know if there are sodium filled valves available that will fit the WBX heads. If so, what are the sources? JohnVW makes the sodium valves the list price is $64 each. I use the a = good Italian valve with no problems I have seen exhaust seats take a = beating in vans that are driven to hard for to long as in above 4000 rpm = but I have not seen the need for the sodium valves. Sodium valves need = extra clearance in the valve guide because they transmit heat down the = stem are you sure you want to transmit heat down the stem. In my own = vans I use a non hardened seat made ofnickel the same seat I use in the = propane engines I build for Zambonis and type 4 engines Bob Donalds all = rights reservedhttp://www.bostonengine.com =20 ------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01C15F96.284F3FE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable 
John Rodgers wrote



Anybody know if there are sodium filled valves available that will fit

the WBX heads. If so, what are the sources?





John
VW makes the sodium valves the list price is $64 each. I use =

the a good Italian valve with no problems 
I have seen exhaust seats take a beating in vans =

that are driven to hard for to long as in above 4000 rpm =


but I have not seen the need =

for the sodium valves. Sodium valves need extra clearance in the valve =

guide 
because they transmit =

heat down the stem are you sure you want to transmit heat down the stem. =

In my own vans I use a non hardened seat made of
nickel the same seat I use in the propane engines =

I build for Zambonis and type 4 engines  
Bob Donalds 
all rights reserved
http://www.bostonengine.com
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01C15F96.284F3FE0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:10:14 -0800 Reply-To: van man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: van man Subject: Brakes in - Bolt Torque?? Comments: cc: Syncro@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks everyone, I got the brakes in yesterday afternoon. Pretty cheap, the rotors were 50 bucks from Volkscafe in Santa Fe, pads about 25. Shipping was only 10 and they got here the next day. I used a C clamp for the pistons, I just couldnt figure out how that would work for a while becuase I mistakenly though once I took the clamp of, the pistons would come back out. Anyway, how dangerous is it if I cant the bolts torqued to spec? First of all, Bently calls for 200ft and my wrench only goes to 150. But I couldnt even budge the bolts after about 140, and Im pretty strong. Thanks, Jeff __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 09:19:06 -0700 Reply-To: Bob Stevens Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob Stevens Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Rachel:

Just my own expereince on this one: I just did this procedure two weeks ago...replacing the rear shoes. After taking the two 10 mm bolts off, I wedged the flat end of a brake adjusting tool between the drum and the steel flashing (real name??) and hit the side of the drum with a hammer and it just about leapt out into my lap. It really did "pop" off. If you want to inspect the shoe thickness there is a small window, usually plugged by a rubber plug which has a little gripper on it to twist and pull it out. You can then use a flash light to look in to see the brake lining thickness if you can get your head in there. Laying on the ground, that's difficult but doable.

This all after releasing all the pressure from the brakes by taking the emergency brake off, unscrewing the tension from the e-brake cable, etc.

Bob Stevens

'91 Westy

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========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 08:32:08 -0800 Reply-To: Austin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Austin Subject: Water Pump - ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Is it possible that a water pump going bad can sound like a can of marbles being shaken ("-not stirred")???? Austin ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:34:21 -0500 Reply-To: Winston Smith Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Winston Smith Subject: Atlanta, GA 30342 I would MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On the date of the summons, I have a full day of classes and labs, and making them up would be impossible. Fulfilling my jury duty would be only possible for me this summer. Thank you, Andrew M. Smith. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 14:53:18 +0200 Reply-To: Raimund Feussner Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Raimund Feussner Subject: Re: Rear disks in a Vanagon Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Besides Hansen, I am currently working on an 4-disc system, but with cheaper parts. I hope to get this system ready for half the price of the porsche system, using vented discs and calipers on the front from the Audi 100/A6 C4 (1992-1997). On the back I will use ΄02 A4-discs and Golf3 calipers. The front is complete, but the adapters for the rear aren΄t yet. Raimund ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Grebneff" To: Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 10:54 AM Subject: Re: Rear disks in a Vanagon > >I've been playing around with the idea of putting disks on the rear of the > >van. I haven't heard of anybody doing this, any thoughts from the list? > >Dave K. > > Hansen Motorsport in der Vaterland makes kits to fit various brakes to the > T3. I will eventually be buying their kit to fit front discs/calipers from > a Porsche 993, or custom brakes to fit my 16" CLK wheels. These brakes will > be killer ones, capable of stopping ultraquick (hope it doesn't do > front-wheelies!). > > Hansen is currently working on a rear-disc kit too. > > e-mail Jens Hansen > > website > > The front-disc kit is DM1300; buy the calipers and rotors (full set of > front AND rear) for $1000 or less from a US wrecker. Only the 993 discs fit > the VW stud-pattern, but custom kits are available with any stud-pattern > and offset. > > Oettinger's 4-wheel-disc kit is only rated by the TUV for about 180kmh. > They are also utilitarian-ugly, whereas the Hansen ones are the sort you > want wheels with big holes in to see them through! > > I can forward jpegs of Hansen's and Oettinger's kits to anyone who is > interested. > > The Australian rear-disc kit (made for T2 and T3 vans) I am told is so > flimsy it sounds outright dangerous; the caliper carrier is so weak it may > twist and jam the brakes on. > > > > Andrew Grebneff > 165 Evans St, Dunedin, New Zealand > > ph 64 (3) 473-8863 > fax 64 (3) 479-7527 > 84 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with SVX engine & Porsche G50 trans) RWD > 87 Corolla 1.8 DX CE80 diesel sedan > 89 Corolla 1.8 DX CE96 diesel van/wagon > 89 Corona 2.0 D Select CT170 diesel sedan > 92 Toyota Estima Lucida (=narrow-body Previa) 2.2 turbodiesel RWD > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:43:31 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Atlanta, GA 30342 I would Comments: To: wsmith265@atl.mediaone.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_6c.1221cb8c.290d8fb3_boundary" --part1_6c.1221cb8c.290d8fb3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/28/01 11:37:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, wsmith265@ATL.MEDIAONE.NET writes: > On the date of the summons, I have a full day of classes and labs, and > making them up would be impossible. Fulfilling my jury duty would be only > possible for me this summer. > > Thank you, > Andrew M. Smith. > IM SORRY THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR MISSING JURY DUTY!!! WE ARE ISSUING A WARRANT FOR YOUR ARREST lol ;<) how did this get sent to the list..? chris --part1_6c.1221cb8c.290d8fb3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/28/01 11:37:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, wsmith265@ATL.MEDIAONE.NET writes:


On the date of the summons, I have a full day of classes and labs, and making them up would be impossible.  Fulfilling my jury duty would be only possible for me this summer.

Thank you,
       Andrew M. Smith.


IM SORRY THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR MISSING JURY DUTY!!!  WE ARE ISSUING A WARRANT FOR YOUR ARREST


lol

;<)  
how did this get sent to the list..?
chris --part1_6c.1221cb8c.290d8fb3_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:47:17 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: Water Pump - ? Comments: To: austins@IX.NETCOM.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed loosen belt from pully and take it off. Spin the pump by hand. If its bad you will feel the grinding and/or the shaft will wobble. Should be very smooth and no up and down movement. Randy Charrette 87' Syncro >From: Austin >Reply-To: Austin >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Water Pump - ? >Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 08:32:08 -0800 > >Is it possible that a water pump going bad can sound like a can of marbles >being shaken ("-not stirred")???? > >Austin _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 13:21:27 -0500 Reply-To: Maynard Southard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maynard Southard Subject: 30mm vs. 40mm Hub on Diesel Water Pump Comments: To: "diesel@audifans.com" Comments: cc: "Audi-VW-Diesels@yahoogroups.com" Brace yourself for a dumb question ... Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the 30mm and 40mm hub on the water pump for the 1.6L NA diesel? (Please don't say 10mm!) The Vanagon diesel requires a 40mm hub on the water pump. I've always thought the dimension referred to the diameter of the surface that the pulley attaches to (the "hub", right?), but I have 3 water pumps on my work bench, one from my '82 Westy diesel (and I know it is not original), one from my '82 Passenger diesel (and I know the whole engine is not original) and one from an '84 Jetta Diesel with no A/C (which supposedly also takes the 40mm hub, but I know it is not original also.) The "hubs" are all the same diameter, but the vanes are different. One has formed steel vanes (kind of like bent fork tines) and the other two have a cast vanes (and they are not identical). Am I just looking at different manufacturing approaches to the tines, or have I misunderstood which hub the measure refers to? And finally, why does VW use two different hub sizes? I think it has something to do with the pulley drive system - as the Vanagon application uses one belt to drive the water pump from the crankshaft pulley and a second belt to drive the alternator from the water pump pulley. On late 70's and early 80's diesels with A/C, there is a single belt that drives the water pump and A/C compressor from the crankshaft pulley and another belt that drives the alternator off of the A/C pulley. These all seem to spec the 30mm hub. Is the difference because of the way the pulley is attached? Thanks for any insight. Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" '82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" '93 EV GL "Klinger" '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:17:20 -0800 Reply-To: Dana Morphew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dana Morphew Organization: Dana's Mobile Carpet Steam Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As Ben mentioned: "There's also a large tool available which looks like a huge box wrench with no handle. has a hole for a breaker bar. You insert it over the nut. Attache a breaker bar. Then smack it with a hammer. Again, I don't know if they are available in the bigger bus nuts." This is made by EMPI and sold by J.C. Whitney for around $8, comes in the 46 mm. size the Vanagon nuts call for, and works with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 lb. hammer to hit the gizmo with. It worked for me, and it's likely available in other places as well. Let me know if you want a few rudimentary pointers. -Dana- Gnarlodious wrote: > > How do I check the rear brakes? > Don't tell me I have to remove that huge castle nut! I measured it at > 1 13/16, is that right? What is the best tool for the job? Pipe wrench? I > don't even have one but seriously...What is the minimal way to do it? > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:02:05 -0500 Reply-To: Jermide Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jermide Subject: Head gasket leak for rookie MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01C15FC9.E37A68C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C15FC9.E37A68C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable BenT can summon the diabolical wrath of the Vanagods!=20 I purchased my first Vanagon, with no leaks almost a month ago. Saturday = afternoon, I noticed a small water drip. This morning, there was a small = puddle on the driveway. I removed the shield from the bottom of the = head, and the gasket is leaking.=20 I immediately hit the archives, and am now reading that this is the time = for them to start dripping. ? The temperature dropped significantly this = weekend for the first time since I bought it. Oh, well. Here we go... Jeremy 85 GL GA ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C15FC9.E37A68C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
BenT can summon the diabolical = wrath of=20 the Vanagods!
 
I purchased my first Vanagon, with = no leaks=20 almost a month ago. Saturday afternoon, I noticed a small water drip. = This=20 morning, there was a small puddle on the driveway. I removed the shield = from the=20 bottom of the head, and the gasket is leaking.
 
I immediately hit the archives, and am = now=20 reading that this is the time for them to start dripping. = ? The=20 temperature dropped significantly this weekend for the first time = since I=20 bought it.
 
Oh, well. Here we go...
 
Jeremy
85 GL
GA
 
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C15FC9.E37A68C0-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:08:20 -0500 Reply-To: Dennis Haynes Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dennis Haynes Subject: Re: 30mm vs. 40mm Hub on Diesel Water Pump Comments: To: Maynard Southard In-Reply-To: <01C15FB3.7C60FC00.echomhs@gis.net> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT The difference is the pulley mounting. Nothing to do with the vanes. That pump you have the stamped steel impeller is probably a GMP brand pump. These are usually made in Japan. They made many pumps for many vehicles with the idea of being a low cost replacement eliminating the need for rebuilt pumps which are used for many American replacements. They claimed the steel impeller pumped more water, (it did not) and they offered a "lifetime" warranty, (go collect). Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Maynard Southard Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 1:21 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 30mm vs. 40mm Hub on Diesel Water Pump Brace yourself for a dumb question ... Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the 30mm and 40mm hub on the water pump for the 1.6L NA diesel? (Please don't say 10mm!) The Vanagon diesel requires a 40mm hub on the water pump. I've always thought the dimension referred to the diameter of the surface that the pulley attaches to (the "hub", right?), but I have 3 water pumps on my work bench, one from my '82 Westy diesel (and I know it is not original), one from my '82 Passenger diesel (and I know the whole engine is not original) and one from an '84 Jetta Diesel with no A/C (which supposedly also takes the 40mm hub, but I know it is not original also.) The "hubs" are all the same diameter, but the vanes are different. One has formed steel vanes (kind of like bent fork tines) and the other two have a cast vanes (and they are not identical). Am I just looking at different manufacturing approaches to the tines, or have I misunderstood which hub the measure refers to? And finally, why does VW use two different hub sizes? I think it has something to do with the pulley drive system - as the Vanagon application uses one belt to drive the water pump from the crankshaft pulley and a second belt to drive the alternator from the water pump pulley. On late 70's and early 80's diesels with A/C, there is a single belt that drives the water pump and A/C compressor from the crankshaft pulley and another belt that drives the alternator off of the A/C pulley. These all seem to spec the 30mm hub. Is the difference because of the way the pulley is attached? Thanks for any insight. Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" '82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" '93 EV GL "Klinger" '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:38:43 EST Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Head gasket leak for rookie Comments: To: jermide@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/28/01 12:48:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, jermide@HOTMAIL.COM writes: << BenT can summon the diabolical wrath of the Vanagods! >> I guess she thought I was serious. How could anyone wish such ire of a fellow Vanagon owner? Except maybe on TK. But then the air-cooled Gods got him this week already. Good luck with heads. BenT ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:19:35 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: Gnarlodious MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gnarlodious wrote: > How do I check the rear brakes? > Don't tell me I have to remove that huge castle nut! I measured it at > 1 13/16, is that right? What is the best tool for the job? Pipe wrench? I > don't even have one but seriously...What is the minimal way to do it? > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com If you really have to remove the nut, 1 13/16 " is very close to the official size of 46 mm. You can probably buy a socket at Sears like I did. Get 3/4" drive and a tee bar or breaker bar to turn it. Then add a piece of pipe and jump on it. Have fun, Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:00:10 -0600 Reply-To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? In-Reply-To: <3BDC59C0.D675A5ED@pugetsound.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This box end tool works well until you put longer studs on for alloy rims. Then it no longer clears the studs.... (BTDT) Chris > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf > Of Dana Morphew > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 1:17 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? > > > As Ben mentioned: "There's also a large tool available which looks like > a huge box wrench with > no handle. has a hole for a breaker bar. You insert it over the nut. > Attache > a breaker bar. Then smack it with a hammer. Again, I don't know if they > are > available in the bigger bus nuts." > > This is made by EMPI and sold by J.C. Whitney for around $8, comes in > the 46 mm. size the Vanagon nuts call for, and works with a 1/2" breaker > bar and a 3 lb. hammer to hit the gizmo with. It worked for me, and > it's likely available in other places as well. Let me know if you want > a few rudimentary pointers. > > -Dana- > > Gnarlodious wrote: > > > > How do I check the rear brakes? > > Don't tell me I have to remove that huge castle nut! I measured it at > > 1 13/16, is that right? What is the best tool for the job? Pipe > wrench? I > > don't even have one but seriously...What is the minimal way to do it? > > > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 17:44:13 EST Reply-To: EVEHART33@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ken Hunter Subject: Longer wiper blades MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_14b.32385f0.290de43d_boundary" --part1_14b.32385f0.290de43d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It's time for new wiper blades. I remembered an old post recommending using a 21" on the left and a 19" on the right (stock is 18"). Any problem doing this? I usually use Bosch blades. Anybody have better luck with another brand? Thanks, Ken Hunter Los Lunas,NM 82 Westy 1.9NA 84 Jetta 1.5NA --part1_14b.32385f0.290de43d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It's time for new wiper blades. I remembered an old post recommending using a 21" on the left and a 19" on the right (stock is 18").  Any problem doing this? I usually use Bosch blades. Anybody have better luck with another brand?

Thanks,


Ken Hunter
Los Lunas,NM
82 Westy 1.9NA
84 Jetta 1.5NA
 --part1_14b.32385f0.290de43d_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 17:18:43 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: Re: Longer wiper blades MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > It's time for new wiper blades. I remembered an old post recommending using > a 21" on the left and a 19" on the right (stock is 18"). Any problem doing > this? I usually use Bosch blades. Anybody have better luck with another > brand? the only problem i've found with the bosch microedge blades is that the 20 and 21 inch blades do NOT have the little adapter for our 'shephard's hook' wiper arms. :( i found the 19 inch ones do, however, have the adapter and work fine. good luck! joel ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:27:07 -0800 Reply-To: Paul Bucco Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Paul Bucco Subject: grease powered Vanagon on Ripley's Believe it or Not tv show MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi List, Just saw a cooking grease powered Vanagon(early-mid 80's) go cross country on Ripley's Believe It or Not show on television. It passed Ca. emissions test too! p.s. my 87 still is not running! ===== Paul Bucco Ibuyvdubs@yahoo.com New Jersey Shore 65 21 window deluxe(have rebuilt 1641cc-need to install it now!!) 87 Wolfsburg Edition Vanagon(non-running now--- piece of *&#@!!!) 00 Dodge Ram workvan __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 17:41:07 -0800 Reply-To: dennis lockwood Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: dennis lockwood Subject: Auto Tranny Gear Shift Housing Lights MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Gang, Haven't seen this question lately, forgive me if I missed a thread. The two small light bulbs inside the automatic transmission selector housing on my 91 Carat have burned out. Has anybody replaced these light bulbs? I asked my local VW dealer for replacement bulbs. He gave me two small bulbs each slightly larger than a grain or rice. But, how do you remove the old bulbs from their holders without crushing them? And if you do manage to get out the old bulbs, how do you insert the new bulbs so that the bulb wires contact the connector terminals on the holder? These questions don't mean much to you, fair reader, if you haven't faced this replacement. Of course, my local VW dealer was no help. If you have solved this problem, please help. Dennis Lockwood 91 Carat Original Owner __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:40:41 EST Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? Comments: To: lalofs@enteract.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Larry, Why buy something close when you can buy the right size? If you already have the SAE size that's great. If you have to buy one, get the 46 mm, right? BenT ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 18:04:53 -0800 Reply-To: George Wietor Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: George Wietor Subject: Re: Auto Tranny Gear Shift Housing Lights Comments: To: dennis lockwood In-Reply-To: <20011029014107.4327.qmail@web14401.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dennis: I can't get my bulbs to light, either. I have new, functioning bulbs, juice in the wires. Just not making good electrical contact, I guess. George --- dennis lockwood wrote: > Gang, > > Haven't seen this question lately, forgive me if I > missed > Dennis Lockwood > 91 Carat > Original Owner > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. > http://personals.yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:52:22 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: Re: Auto Tranny Gear Shift Housing Lights Comments: To: dennis lockwood MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > grain or rice. But, how do you remove the old bulbs > from their holders without crushing them? And if you > do manage to get out the old bulbs, how do you insert > the new bulbs so that the bulb wires contact the when i worked for a national computer company, we had similar bulbs in our equipment ... the common way to remove them was to get a plastic soda straw that was the same diameter as the bulbs and push it down into the holder, over the bulbs. a little twisting and pulling and the bulb came right out. putting the new one in wasn't a problem .... it just pushed in. i've used this on the dash lights in my vanagon ... the ones behind the heater levers. so i'm assuming it should work on the transmission selector lights. good luck! joel ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 21:18:34 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Removing rear brake drums? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ben T wrote: > Larry, > > Why buy something close when you can buy the right size? If you already have the SAE size that's great. If you have to buy one, get the 46 mm, right? > > BenT 1 13/16 " = 1.8125 " 1.8125 X 25.4 = 46.0375 mm Close enough for me. In a size that is unusually large, the metric version may be harder to find and/or more expensive. my 1/50 of a dollar Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:26:19 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: 30mm vs. 40mm Hub on Diesel Water Pump Comments: To: Maynard Southard In-Reply-To: <01C15FB3.7C60FC00.echomhs@gis.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit The 40mm is the older style and the 30mm is the newer used since about 1981 or so... the pumps are fully interchangeable, just that you will need the correct pulley to match the hub. David Marshall Fast Forward Automotive Inc. 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 • Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions • Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales • European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Maynard Southard Sent: October 28, 2001 10:21 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 30mm vs. 40mm Hub on Diesel Water Pump Brace yourself for a dumb question ... Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the 30mm and 40mm hub on the water pump for the 1.6L NA diesel? (Please don't say 10mm!) The Vanagon diesel requires a 40mm hub on the water pump. I've always thought the dimension referred to the diameter of the surface that the pulley attaches to (the "hub", right?), but I have 3 water pumps on my work bench, one from my '82 Westy diesel (and I know it is not original), one from my '82 Passenger diesel (and I know the whole engine is not original) and one from an '84 Jetta Diesel with no A/C (which supposedly also takes the 40mm hub, but I know it is not original also.) The "hubs" are all the same diameter, but the vanes are different. One has formed steel vanes (kind of like bent fork tines) and the other two have a cast vanes (and they are not identical). Am I just looking at different manufacturing approaches to the tines, or have I misunderstood which hub the measure refers to? And finally, why does VW use two different hub sizes? I think it has something to do with the pulley drive system - as the Vanagon application uses one belt to drive the water pump from the crankshaft pulley and a second belt to drive the alternator from the water pump pulley. On late 70's and early 80's diesels with A/C, there is a single belt that drives the water pump and A/C compressor from the crankshaft pulley and another belt that drives the alternator off of the A/C pulley. These all seem to spec the 30mm hub. Is the difference because of the way the pulley is attached? Thanks for any insight. Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" '82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" '93 EV GL "Klinger" '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:32:11 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: Wanted: Grey middle seat in BC Comments: To: Riley Kettner In-Reply-To: <008601c15deb$acfddaa0$c2dc4e18@vn.shawcable.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01C15FEF.9EDEAB60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C15FEF.9EDEAB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have a grey bordering on black middle seat and rear bench seat sitting here in Quesnel... both are in really great condition! David Marshall Fast Forward Automotive Inc. 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 • Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions • Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales • European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Riley Kettner Sent: October 25, 2001 11:59 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Wanted: Grey middle seat in BC Looking for a greay middle seat with the floor brackets. Anyone know of something left in a junk yard, or perhaps someone selling these things. thanks, riley ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C15FEF.9EDEAB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have=20 a grey bordering on black middle seat and rear bench seat sitting here = in=20 Quesnel... both are in really great condition!
 

David Marshall

Fast = Forward Automotive=20 Inc.
4356 Quesnel Hixon Road
Quesnel BC Canada  V2J = 6Z3
mailto:info@fastforward.ca      http://www.fastforward.ca      
Phone: (250) 992 = 7775  =20         FAX: (250) 992 = 1160

• Vanagon=20 Accessories and Engine Conversions  
• Transporter, = Unimog and=20 Iltis Sales
• European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen=20 models

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List=20 [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Riley=20 Kettner
Sent: October 25, 2001 11:59 PM
To:=20 vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Wanted: Grey middle seat = in=20 BC

Looking for a greay middle seat with = the floor=20 brackets. Anyone know of something left in a junk yard, or perhaps = someone=20 selling these things.
 
thanks,
riley
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C15FEF.9EDEAB60-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:31:11 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: Water Pump - ? Comments: To: Austin In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20011028082958.00a06b50@popd.ix.netcom.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sounds like - the one on my 1.9L wasserboxer equipped DoKa sounded like that since I bought it, I drove it for about 2 months before it started to leak some coolant - at this point I could wiggle the pulley about 2mm or so... definitely lucky I didn't have a problem (over heat = bad / leaking heads). David Marshall Fast Forward Automotive Inc. 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 . Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions . Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales . European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Austin Sent: October 28, 2001 8:32 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Water Pump - ? Is it possible that a water pump going bad can sound like a can of marbles being shaken ("-not stirred")???? Austin ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:42:27 -0800 Reply-To: David Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Marshall Subject: Re: Fitting Dunlop Radial Rover in spare carrier? Comments: To: Steve Hoge In-Reply-To: <0GLV00ASIT0SA3@mta7.pltn13.pbi.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They won't fit with out a little modification - what you need is a piece of metal shaped in a "C" - the top part of the C has a 12mm hole and the bottom part has an M12x1.5 nut welded to it. Use a common M12 bolt to secure the C to the existing hole and a then insert the original bolt in the nut at the bottom of the C - basically you need to make a spacer. The other solution is to buy one of those fancy VW Original spare tire carriers... but I have a funny feeling the spacer is a LOT cheaper! :) David Marshall Fast Forward Automotive Inc. 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 mailto:info@fastforward.ca http://www.fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 . Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions . Transporter, Unimog and Iltis Sales . European Lighting for most Audi and Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Steve Hoge Sent: October 27, 2001 1:36 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Fitting Dunlop Radial Rover in spare carrier? Hi all - I've got 5 new Dunlop Radial Rovers (27x8.50R14) for my '89 Syncro and they feel just great so far (50 miles.) However, I got a shock when I went to pick them up and the tire guys said they couldn't get the spare carrier closed on the 5th one. What?!? I thought these were "EZ-fit" on the Vanagon, but they're wider than my old Yokohamas, and the carrier won't clamp down far enough to get the bolt to thread in. I could see that the sidewall interferes with the box around the shift linkage unless you cheat the tire rearward a bit, which is feasible. However, once you do that it still seems like it's hanging up on something, and I need at least another inch of clearance. Do I have to do some heinous bending of the metal bars above the carrier that are supposed to clamp the tire down from above? Also, the tire sidewall looks like it's in contact with the rubber coolant hoses - is that kosher? What's the trick to getting these to fit? -Steve ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 22:45:27 -0600 Reply-To: Dart 330 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dart 330 Subject: searching for optional 5th westy seat Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Well I have gotten to the point that road tripping with more than four people in my westy is a pain. Having one or two people on the floor or in lawn chairs is not safe (which I strongly warn them before joining in for the trip). I would like to find the optional 5th seat that I can bolt to the floor. I have a tan interior but a grey chair will work, I just want a safer way to transport 5 people. I have never seen one of these so I imagine they were not a popular option. If anyone knows where I can obtain one please let me know, I would really like to have one. Thanks, Nathan 85 Westy 74 Bus _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp