Anyone in Southern Cal want to look at my vanagon for sale? Its a White Carat with a clean body, 1991 with pw, pdl, ps, bilstein shocks, the table, the bed, grey interior. Has ac but isn't operational, don't know why. I'm the second owner, first owner replaced head gaskets before he gave the van to his wife and she traded it in (divorce). Has 132,500 miles. I'm asking 6,000 dollars.



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========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 12:52:07 -0800 Reply-To: richard.e.gomes@EXGATE.TEK.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rick Gomes Subject: 85 - 91 Vanagon -- 2wd drive performance in snow and ice. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I am looking into buying a Westy Vanagon (85 - 91) and would like input about their performance in snow and on ice. How would you compare their performance with a vehicle which has front wheel drive? Thanks in advance, Rick Gomes ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:03:30 -0700 Reply-To: "Michael A. Radtke" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Michael A. Radtke" Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land Comments: To: "KENWILFY@AOL.COM" Ken, You can easily eliminate the booster as a possibility by just not starting the engine. After a few pedal pushes, no more boost and if the brakes are still squishy, the problem is somewhere else. I think that it still will be squishy. If the brakes were solid before the work, I would suspect that the calipers and pads were not correctly installed. I'd take a look there first. However, the customer brought the van in for some reason beyond having you replace a few parts. He may have been trying to fix the same problem that you are. Something is ballooning, compressing or bending. You are doing all the right things and I am sure are a much better mechanic than I am so don't give up, you'll find it. The only thing that I can add that you may not have thought of is foam. When you bleed the brakes, is the fluid clear? If it is milky, something is leaking air into the system. Please let us know how you are progressing. Mike Phoenix AZ ---------- From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM[SMTP:KENWILFY@AOL.COM] Reply To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 1:25 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Frustration in Brake Land <> I have a '80 Vanagon Westie here that is trying to drive me insane. The guy brought it in to have some brake work done. He could see that one of his calipers was leaking and draging and the pedal was feeling soft. He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the front calipers and whatever the brake system needed. I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the front and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two other vans. My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front calipers. We then bled the system. Pedal was still low and it seemed that you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds it was low again. I then inspected the rear brakes. One wheel cylinder was bad, I replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side. I put a new drum on and also a new set of shoes. We bled it three more times. Still low pedal, kinda smooshie. I went out and bought a power bleeder (Mity Vac). I had wanted one of these for a while any way. Bled it again, still the same. I inspected the metal lines and the rubber lines and found that all of the rubber lines had bulges in them. I thought I had finally found the problem. I replaced all of the lines with new ones. Bled the system again. Still the same!! Any suggestions? I am starting to suspect that my helper did something wrong when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out how the brake booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal. The only other thing I can think of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective. Any help would be appreciated. Usually brake jobs are so simple, this one is starting to get to me. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:19:01 -0800 Reply-To: Brent Christensen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brent Christensen Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Ken: The problems I have encountered in my Syncro with "smooshie" pedal have been related to rear drum diameter; either adjustment, shoe thickness, or the thickness of the drum itself. I drove my self batty last year replacing wheel cylinders, shoes, flushing and bleeding fluid, adjusting, etc. until I finally replaced the drums. Once I did that and followed the *exact* specs in the Bentley for adusting the shoes, everything was fine. It seems to me that the design of the rear shoes is flawed in Vanagons, making them particularly suseptible to this sort of problem - as the shoes wear, they do not wear evenly, but rather the arc of contact with the drum changes, since they only adjust in one dimension. (Some of you know what I mean, and others are probably reading this saying "huh??") :-) Try taking the parking brake up a notch and see if that makes the pedal feel better - if so, I'll wager it is a problem with the clearance between the linings and the drum... Brent Christensen Santa Barbara, CA >From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM >Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Frustration in Brake Land >Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:25:48 EST > >I have a '80 Vanagon Westie here that is trying to drive me insane. The >guy >brought it in to have some brake work done. He could see that one of his >calipers was leaking and draging and the pedal was feeling soft. >He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the front >calipers and whatever the brake system needed. >I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the >front >and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two other vans. >My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front >calipers. We then bled the system. Pedal was still low and it seemed that >you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds it was >low >again. I then inspected the rear brakes. One wheel cylinder was bad, I >replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side. I put a new drum on >and also a new set of shoes. We bled it three more times. Still low >pedal, >kinda smooshie. I went out and bought a power bleeder (Mity Vac). I had >wanted one of these for a while any way. Bled it again, still the same. I >inspected the metal lines and the rubber lines and found that all of the >rubber lines had bulges in them. I thought I had finally found the >problem. >I replaced all of the lines with new ones. Bled the system again. Still >the >same!! > >Any suggestions? I am starting to suspect that my helper did something >wrong >when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out how the >brake >booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal. The only other thing I can >think >of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective. Any help would be >appreciated. Usually brake jobs are so simple, this one is starting to get >to me. > >Thanks, >Ken Wilford >John 3:16 >www.vanagain.com >Phone: (856)-765-1583 >Fax: (856)-327-2242 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:25:42 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Best Way To Get Factory Parts From The Dealer Comments: To: Derek Drew C'back is still C'back. Used to be Walser about 10-20 years (2 or three iterations) ago. Karl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Derek Drew" To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 11:04 AM Subject: Best Way To Get Factory Parts From The Dealer > Frank, here is the scoop on where to order your factory parts from when ordering from Volkswagen directly. > > So far as I know, both Rennie and Camelback are still in the business and are excellent sources of factory parts. Their prices will be comparable but I think Rennie may have a slight price advantage. > > If you would like to place European parts orders, then you can also ask me for a price quote as I can usually beat USA prices by a European VAG factory parts importing system I set up to help list members. As a result of this system, I am probably the cheapest source of parts you need to source through a VAG Dealer in Europe because it is out of stock or not sold in North America. Before using this system, however, check with Bus Depot (www.busdepot.com) to see if they have a method to obtain OEM parts through aftermarket sources because this will be cheaper still. For transmission related components, you can check with either me or Weddle Engineering. > > To contract Camelback in Arizona (now known as Paul Walser VW???) call 800-876-5199 and order by phone/mail-order. > To contact Rennie email volksdragon@earthlink.net (he is in Los Angeles). > To contact Weddle Engineering send an email to info@2weddle.com. > To contact me, send an email to derekdrew@rcn.com. > > At the bottom of this email I reproduce two emails from the past I sent on this topic which should be reviewed by list members who are new to this topic. Ordering from your local dealer is a crude and prehistoric method of obtaining parts and should be avoided whenever possible for various reasons discussed below. As it says below, "I used to buy my VW parts from the local dealer here but I cannot get over > how silly this is. You pay sales tax. You often have to go to the dealer twice--once to order and once to take delivery. You have to wait in line. You pay full price or a high price. Who needs it? Go 800 and do something more productive with your time and money." > > At 11:25 AM 11/2/2001 -0500, you wrote: > > > Derek, > > Is Rennie still in the parts biz, or is Camelback the way to go? > > Other than email, it there a way to contact him? > > thanks - Frank > > \\\\////\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\ \\ > Frank Terhaar-Yonkers W4FTY TRA 8325/L2 > Cisco Systems, Inc. > NSITE - Pineview Building - RTP > 7025 Kit Creek Road PO Box 14987 > Research Triangle Park, North Carolina 27709 > fty@cisco.com voice(919)392-2101 fx(919)392-6927 > > ================= > > > February 2001 MESSAGE ON RENNIE: > > It has come to my attention that Rennie, otherwise known as volksdragon@earthlink.net, is able to get us parts at 20% over dealer list and is happy and willing to supply us. > > He has been posting to the list all kinds of help and owns his own Vanagon, and we have sort of ignored him as a place from which to order parts, partly because he never mentioned anything about becoming a vendor and doesn't want to "undercut" anybody. > > But his prices are likely a discount from the amount we have been paying Camelback when sourcing factory-only parts, it appears that it might be wise to start shifting our business to the extent Rennie wants us to. I spoke to him this morning and he says he is fine to become the new Camelback if that is what we want to do. I hope he has a cooperative shipping department. > > Next time you need to source some parts available only through the dealer network, consider trying Rennie out. Possibly this could work out. > > He is on email more than Camelback is, and seems genuinely interested in the vehicle and in helping out so all else being equal, he could be the best choice for this. > > Meanwhile, if the part is a Europe-only part or carries a significant European price advantage, I have set up a pathway for efficient sourcing from there email me if you want to pursue this avenue. > > =========================== > > FEBRUARY 2001 MESSAGE THAT HELPED ESTABLISH CAMELBACK ON THE LIST > > Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 14:26:01 -0400 > Sender: Vanagon Mailing List > From: drew@interport.net (Derek Drew) > Subject: Best Dealer To Buy Parts From (Don't Skip This Post) > > Recently I conducted a test to find out which was the VW dealer offering > factory VW parts at the lowest prices. I composed a bid form with about 25 > different factory parts I intended to buy new, and I sent this form to a > half dozen dealers around the country to see which really offered the lowest > prices. > > Included in my survey were > > Joel Walker's friend Jim Ellis at VW Atlanta > Sonnen Motors in California > Bob Hoy's VW in Texas > Paul Walser Volkswagen in Phoenix, Az > > I mentioned in my bid to Paul Walser Volkswagen that I had heard on the > Vanagon List that they were willing to sell parts at 20% over their cost to > people like me (Internet Vanagonatics). The Walser people responded promptly > and their prices were lower than all the other dealers by a significant > margin on all parts but one obscure one. > > Accordingly, I placed my order with Walser, directing them to send the parts > UPS. I live in New York, but it is better to buy the parts from an out of > state dealer so as to avoid 8% sales tax. As for the UPS shipping charges, > in general they are not significant so it doesn't matter which state I am > ordering from. > > In the future, I plan to buy all factory parts from Walser without going > through the effort to get bids from different dealers. I am submitting this > post to recomend that other list members do the same. Be sure to mention the > Internet and the 20%-over-cost program to get your proper discount. > > I conducted the entire operation by fax and have never spoken to anyone at > Walser. Here is there phone numbers > > Paul Walser Volkswagen > Phoenix, Az 85016 > 800-876-5199 > fax: 602-265-8768 > > List members may wish to copy the 800# and label it something like "Cheap > Factory Parts By Mail" and keep it handy. > > I used to buy my VW parts from the local dealer here but I cannot get over > how silly this is. You pay sales tax. You often have to go to the dealer > twice--once to order and once to take delivery. You have to wait in line. > You pay full price or a high price. Who needs it? Go 800 and do something > more productive with your time and money. > > The one caveat is that I supplied the part numbers and asked them to double > check some of them. If you lack a microfiche you might be forced to go to > your local dealer to look at the thing and make sure you have the right > parts before ordering. But now with the recent innovation appearing on this > list of how to get a cheap microfiche reader (Radio Shack 50X $7 microscope) > there is no excuse: all list members should get their own fiches. > > By the way, before finalizing my order I called up the Parts Place and found > that when they could supply a part, it was about 60% of the cost of buying > that same part from the dealer. Accordinly, I gave the Parts Place my > business for these parts. > > > ___________________________________ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________ > Derek Drew New York, NY & Washington, DC > derekdrew@rcn.com 212-580-6486 > Email me for viscous couplings > '90 Syncro Westfalia... > ...seen off-road at > http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/Syncro_Madness_Area.htm > Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) are: > http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=vanagon > ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/ > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro > http://www.vanagon.com > http://www.syncro.org > My refrigerator article: > http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/Refrigerator/Reefer_Madness.htm > My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies: > ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/auto-insurance-madness.html > To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article > http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/fitbigtiresonvanagon.htm > To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator > http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/syncrotireandgearratios.xls > To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires see > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels%2C%20Tires%20%26%20Gea ring/Wheel%20%26%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_Arm.jpg > > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:21:25 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? Comments: To: cooper@bqmlaw.com In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Not dead yet. I haven't looked. > From: "Cooper, Jonathan R." > Reply-To: cooper@BQMLAW.COM > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:28:26 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >=20 > At least its not his dead cat >=20 > Jonathan R. Cooper > Brzytwa, Quick & McCrystal > 900 Skylight Office Tower > Cleveland, OH 44113 > Cooper@BQMlaw.com >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: Rico Sapolich [mailto:JKrevnov@AOL.COM] > Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 2:30 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >=20 >=20 > In a message dated 11/2/01 1:29:52 PM, chris.smith@aquila.net writes: >=20 > << you'll need a Hiesenburg Uncertainty Principal exemption >> >=20 > Chris, >=20 > I have this bad feeling that all this is leading around to Schr=F6dinger's > friggin' equation. Whether or not it was intentional, you just ruined my > weekend. >=20 > Rich >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:23:19 -0800 Reply-To: Brent Christensen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brent Christensen Subject: Re: 85 - 91 Vanagon -- 2wd drive performance in snow and ice. Comments: To: richard.e.gomes@EXGATE.TEK.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I've heard that 2WD Vanagons are not as good as earlier busses on snow and ice. There is a customer of my mechanic (Cory Motors) with an '86 2WD Westy that lives up a long dirt road and had trouble in the winter months (mud). Mike Cory retrofitted a diff locker into his trans and now he is apparently very happy with the performance. All I can say is that Syncros are of course amazing on snow and ice - better than any other vehicle I have ever driven or owned (and that included a LOT of other 4x4 vehicles). Brent Christensen '89 GL Syncro Westy Santa Barbara, CA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:24:33 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: wAS:Vanagon de Graff-nOW:Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Cat Comments: To: Matthew Pollard In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable How could I have forgotten good old hY=3DeY? After all I practically brush my teeth with it. mike > From: Matthew Pollard > Reply-To: Matthew Pollard > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 12:13:33 -0800 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: wAS:Vanagon de Graff-nOW:Schr=F6dinger's Cat >=20 > By the way, it's not the schroedinger equation that we need to consider > here.... but because we're just looking at energy we can just solve the > hamiltonian. Remember that hY=3DeY >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:19:38 -0800 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: Re: Baldwin Oil filters In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Perhaps you don't care, but others might, especially those looking to use synthetics with extended drain intervals, which is what got me looking into this. Although Bosch/Mann are good filters, there are better ones out there, such as PureOne & Mobil1. The fact that these two DON'T offer a VW diesel filter indicates that they ARE aware of the differences in bypass pressures between a VW diesel and say a FRAM PH8A (Ford 5.0L) filter, which are physically similar, but far different in practice. Since Baldwin does make a VW/Volvo diesel fitment, and they are a well reputed premium filter maker, they appear to be the only choice for a premium VW diesel oil filter. Here is an excerpt from the TDI club forums which goes into more detail, for those who do care: ======== Thought I'd update the group on my search for information on the amsoil filters. Okay. I already posted my emails from amsoil and Baldwin regarding that the filters are made by Baldwin for our application. Hastings makes some of the amsoil filters too. Amsoil says that the filters are different then the normal baldwin filters. Baldwin says that the cans label is printed to the companies specs ( your logo goes here ), but the filters are the same. They make filters for other people besides amsoil. Called Baldwin. 1800 822 5394 Asked for a local distributor. Found one 15 mins from me, in Cambridge ontario. Ok. The amsoil filter SDF15 is NOT the same type of filter that VW uses, but it fits...heck lots of filters fit. If you read this brochure from amsoil. http://24.112.110.104/gtdproject/fluids/g385.pdf You can see a cross reference of other filter manufacturers and see what filters the SDF15 is the same as. For fram for example its a PH8A, while the correct FRAM for our application is a PH3569 ( I'm talking about the spin on upto A3 ppl, not the cartridge element A4 filter ). Both filters will fit though. The PH8A is for example used on 5.0L ford engines for example. In a fram, I certainly wouldn't use the PH8A, because they designed the filter with a lower burst pressure rating since thats all the ford engine requires. VWs have very high oil pressure when cold, and will deform this filter. However other companies design the filters with much higher burst ratings so both can be used in most cases. Back to my point. Baldwin makes three filters that we can use. B114 - which is the correct filter and is a premium cellulose filter. So this would be equivelent to a Bosch, mann, mahle/knecht, hegst...etc...good filters. They also make two others. B2 - again a premium cellulose filter, same type as the fram PH8A. And they make this one which is what I believe the amsoil filter is. V2-F - cellulose and wound cottom design. The tech people at baldwin describe it as a super premium filter, that is a depth filter type...the guy spent 15 mins lecturing me about the differences between screen vs depth filters...and how they are vastly superior...kept trying to explain I already knew and he didn't have to sell me on the superiority of the design etc. Anyways. There ya go. Price. V2-F - $7.67 B2 - $4.36 B114 $6.65 Canadian money above. Amsoil SDF15 $16.25 This is going to be my next oil filter. The V2-F You can ask the tech people for the HS806 numbers to compare and they end up being the same as the Amsoil too... ========= On 2 Nov 2001 at 10:19, Mark Dorm wrote: > Sorry, but who cares if they're the best? If they're not the right oil pressure (what > was that figure?) and don't have the bypass filter or what ever that thing is (you > know the thing that if you blow into the filter you can't blow air through it) then > what good is it? [I know this all vague but what do you expect from an early case > of dementia?]. Mann and Mahle and nothing else, unless its a another car. > > > > >I finally found a source for these filters, in Canada at least: > > > >Acklands has them as follows: > > > >B114 oil filter for diesel $7.12 > >B243 oil filter for W/B $6.98 > > > >Prices are in CDN $, and they offer a discount if you have a > >charge account. I'm planning to open a charge account first, > >then order some, so I'll let you know how they compare with the > >Bosch & VW OEM I'm using now. > > > >I believe Baldwin are the OEM for Amsoil filters, which along > >with PureOne and Mobil1 are supposed to be the best > >available, but Baldwin is the only one with a size to fit the VW > >diesel.======================== > >Shawn Wright > >Computer Systems Manager > >Shawnigan Lake School > >http://www.sls.bc.ca > >swright@sls.bc.ca > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 16:18:23 -0500 Reply-To: cooper@BQMLAW.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Cooper, Jonathan R." Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? Comments: To: mwmiller@cwnet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Schr=F6dinger's Cat (spelling is not a forte this afternoon, nor are = those funny foreign doo dads to make letters sound funny) Jonathan R. Cooper=20 Brzytwa, Quick & McCrystal 900 Skylight Office Tower Cleveland, OH 44113 Cooper@BQMlaw.com -----Original Message----- From: mike miller [mailto:mwmiller@cwnet.com]=20 Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 4:21 PM To: Cooper, Jonathan R.; vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? Not dead yet. I haven't looked. > From: "Cooper, Jonathan R." > Reply-To: cooper@BQMLAW.COM > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:28:26 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >=20 > At least its not his dead cat >=20 > Jonathan R. Cooper > Brzytwa, Quick & McCrystal > 900 Skylight Office Tower > Cleveland, OH 44113 > Cooper@BQMlaw.com >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: Rico Sapolich [mailto:JKrevnov@AOL.COM] > Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 2:30 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >=20 >=20 > In a message dated 11/2/01 1:29:52 PM, chris.smith@aquila.net writes: >=20 > << you'll need a Hiesenburg Uncertainty Principal exemption >> >=20 > Chris, >=20 > I have this bad feeling that all this is leading around to=20 > Schr=F6dinger's friggin' equation. Whether or not it was = intentional,=20 > you just ruined my weekend. >=20 > Rich >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:28:37 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? Comments: To: cooper@bqmlaw.com In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable that's the one I haven't looked at yet. I think? > From: cooper@bqmlaw.com > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 16:18:23 -0500 > To: mwmiller@cwnet.com, vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > Subject: RE: Vanagon de Graff generator? >=20 > Schr=F6dinger's Cat (spelling is not a forte this afternoon, nor are those > funny foreign doo dads to make letters sound funny) >=20 > Jonathan R. Cooper > Brzytwa, Quick & McCrystal > 900 Skylight Office Tower > Cleveland, OH 44113 > Cooper@BQMlaw.com >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: mike miller [mailto:mwmiller@cwnet.com] > Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 4:21 PM > To: Cooper, Jonathan R.; vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >=20 >=20 > Not dead yet. I haven't looked. >=20 >> From: "Cooper, Jonathan R." >> Reply-To: cooper@BQMLAW.COM >> Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:28:26 -0500 >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >>=20 >> At least its not his dead cat >>=20 >> Jonathan R. Cooper >> Brzytwa, Quick & McCrystal >> 900 Skylight Office Tower >> Cleveland, OH 44113 >> Cooper@BQMlaw.com >>=20 >>=20 >>=20 >>=20 >>=20 >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rico Sapolich [mailto:JKrevnov@AOL.COM] >> Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 2:30 PM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? >>=20 >>=20 >> In a message dated 11/2/01 1:29:52 PM, chris.smith@aquila.net writes: >>=20 >> << you'll need a Hiesenburg Uncertainty Principal exemption >> >>=20 >> Chris, >>=20 >> I have this bad feeling that all this is leading around to >> Schr=F6dinger's friggin' equation. Whether or not it was intentional, >> you just ruined my weekend. >>=20 >> Rich >>=20 >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:31:15 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling Comments: To: Tonya Pope That's about what I paid, too. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tonya Pope" To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 11:56 AM Subject: Re: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling > Just curious - was there a reason to avoid the dealer?? I bought > some of these for my van a couple years ago and was pleasantly > surprised. They had to be ordered, so I waited about a week, but it > was under $2 it seems. Maybe mine screwed up, but I have found > that they are extremely reasonable on the weirdest things (and of > course, exhorbant on others). > > Tonya > 87 Vanagon Wolfs > > On 2 Nov 01, at 10:30, Ed Shultz wrote: > > > Frank, > > > > Please post your results if you find any. Mine are split and crumbling > > also. I'm afraid every time I remove the front grill and the light buckets > > for something. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ed > > > > At 08:40 AM 11/02/2001 -0500, fty@CISCO.COM wrote: > > >Ah, the joys of old cars .. > > > > > >Nearly all the platic parts that hold in and adjust the headlights are > > >crumbling on my '86. ETKA shows all the part #s (see below). Was wondering > > >if there was another source other than the dealer - checked Bus Depot's part > > ># lookup and it has none of them. It's also hard to tell if the part # > > >refers to the plastic bit *and* the screw, or just the screw. > > > > > >Anyone else has headlights that are falling out? Better check! > > > > > >cheers - Frank > > > > > > >From ETKA: > > >Position Part # Description Quan (total for both > > >sides) > > >8 255 941 133 adjusting piece 2 > > >9 255 941 133 A adjusting piece 2 > > >10 255 941 141 C adjusting piece 2 > > >11 191 941 297 adapter with adjusting screw 2 > > > for vertical adjustment > > >12 255 941 141 B adjusting screw 4 > > > > > >9&12 are for the Hi-beam (smaller light) > > >8,10,11 for the Lo-beam > > > > > > > > >\\\\////\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\ \\\ > > >Frank Terhaar-Yonkers W4FTY TRA 8325/L2 > > >Cisco Systems, Inc. > > >NSITE - Pineview Building - RTP > > >7025 Kit Creek Road PO Box 14987 > > >Research Triangle Park, North Carolina 27709 > > >fty@cisco.com voice(919)392-2101 fx(919)392-6927 > > > > > > Ed Shultz, RCDD > > Genuity, Inc. > > Manager, Network Systems Design > > NSD Home Page: http://eng-web.genuity.com/net-eng/ipeng/nsd/ipnsd.htm > > V: 781-262-4324, F:781-262-2744, P:1151209@skymail.com > > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 16:45:35 -0500 Reply-To: Gary Stearns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary Stearns Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Boundary_(ID_qvKii39P73TRf1gHaMIW0Q)" --Boundary_(ID_qvKii39P73TRf1gHaMIW0Q) Content-type: Text/Plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Not sure if this applies but here goes. Last summer I replaced the master cylinder in our '88. Same thing that you found, no amount of bleeding or fiddling would get the pedal firm. I discovered that the master cylinder for some reason was holding an air bubble, it wasn't filling from the reservoir as I would expect. I took the reservoir off (again) and "primed" every opening on the m/c that I could find. That was it. Stuck air bubble came out, brakes finally felt good. Gary -------Original Message------- From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Date: Friday, November 02, 2001 03:26:21 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Frustration in Brake Land I have a '80 Vanagon Westie here that is trying to drive me insane. The guy brought it in to have some brake work done. He could see that one of his calipers was leaking and draging and the pedal was feeling soft. He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the front calipers and whatever the brake system needed. I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the front and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two other vans. My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front calipers. We then bled the system. Pedal was still low and it seemed that you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds it was low again. I then inspected the rear brakes. One wheel cylinder was bad, I replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side. I put a new drum on and also a new set of shoes. We bled it three more times. Still low pedal, kinda smooshie. I went out and bought a power bleeder (Mity Vac). I had wanted one of these for a while any way. Bled it again, still the same. I inspected the metal lines and the rubber lines and found that all of the rubber lines had bulges in them. I thought I had finally found the problem. I replaced all of the lines with new ones. Bled the system again. Still the same!! Any suggestions? I am starting to suspect that my helper did something wrong when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out how the brake booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal. The only other thing I can think of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective. Any help would be appreciated. Usually brake jobs are so simple, this one is starting to get to me. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --Boundary_(ID_qvKii39P73TRf1gHaMIW0Q) Content-type: Text/HTML; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Not sure if this applies but here goes.  Last summer I replaced the master cylinder in our '88.  Same thing that you found, no amount of bleeding or fiddling would get the pedal firm.  I discovered that the master cylinder for some reason was holding an air bubble, it wasn't filling from the reservoir as I would expect.  I took the reservoir off (again) and "primed" every opening on the m/c that I could find.  That was it.  Stuck air bubble came out, brakes finally felt good.
Gary
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: Friday, November 02, 2001 03:26:21 PM
Subject: Frustration in Brake Land
 
I have a '80 Vanagon Westie here that is trying to drive me insane.  The guy brought it in to have some brake work done.  He could see that one of his calipers was leaking and draging and the pedal was feeling soft.  
He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the front calipers and whatever the brake system needed.
I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the front and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two other vans.
My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front calipers.  We then bled the system.  Pedal was still low and it seemed that you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds it was low again.  I then inspected the rear brakes.  One wheel cylinder was bad, I replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side.  I put a new drum on and also a new set of shoes.  We bled it three more times.  Still low pedal, kinda smooshie.  I went out and bought a power bleeder (Mity Vac).  I had wanted one of these for a while any way.  Bled it again, still the same.  I inspected the metal lines and the rubber lines and found that all of the rubber lines had bulges in them.  I thought I had finally found the problem.  I replaced all of the lines with new ones.  Bled the system again.  Still the same!!

Any suggestions?  I am starting to suspect that my helper did something wrong when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out how the brake booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal.  The only other thing I can think of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective.  Any help would be appreciated.  Usually brake jobs are so simple, this one is starting to get to me.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
 
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--Boundary_(ID_qvKii39P73TRf1gHaMIW0Q)-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:53:47 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Feline Comments: To: doug.alcock@HEWITT.COM In-Reply-To: <86256AF8.006DE4A0.00@lintng1.hewitt.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Actually I believe the cat in question is BOTH dead AND alive during the experiment (only a feline would be up to this kind of science). Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com Entity Doug Alcock spoke thus: > Check out: http://www.madsciencelaboratories.com/laboratory/cat/index.html ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 16:56:15 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Vanagon de Graff generator? Comments: To: cooper@bqmlaw.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/2/01 4:30:37 PM, cooper@BQMLAW.COM writes: << Schr=F6dinger's Cat (spelling is not a forte this afternoon, nor are thos= e funny foreign doo dads to make letters sound funny) Jonathan R. Cooper >> Jonathan, You spelled it correctly . . . C-A -T, cat. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:08:31 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Feline Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Nope. we don't know the exact state the cat is in, but will lock it into one state or another when we look at it. So the cat is NEITHER dead or alive, but just is. ---OR--- a wavefunction will collapse to one value if it is observed, because the nature of observing it will effect it. There is no way of observing somethign without effecting it. Sorry, game over. -Matthew Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 On Fri, 2 Nov 2001, Gnarlodious wrote: > Actually I believe the cat in question is BOTH dead AND alive during the > experiment (only a feline would be up to this kind of science). > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:07:28 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land In-Reply-To: <14b.36de38c.29145b4c@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Did your fellow assemble the master cylinder? If so, perhaps he kinked the seal cup separating the 2 circuits, so that there is an internal leak? My 74 Passat had this problem. No visible damaged parts, no wet parts, just a squidgy pedal. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:07:28 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: 85 - 91 Vanagon -- 2wd drive performance in snow and ice. In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >I am looking into buying a Westy Vanagon (85 - 91) and would like input >about their performance in snow and on ice. How would you compare their >performance with a vehicle which has front wheel drive? > >Thanks in advance, >Rick Gomes My 57 Split panel was great in ice and snow; only offroad 4WDs could go further in snow. Never drivena Vanagon in ice or snow... yet. My experience with FWD in such conditions is limited to Toyota diesels... which are unstoppable, even crawling up really steep streets covered in sheet-ice, while a gas version of the same car couldn't make it even halfway up (I used to drive taxis, and on such nights our Corolla and Corona diesels would just keep on truckin' while gas Corona taxis were abandoned at funny angles all over the hill roads where their drivers gave up before they could crash!). This is a combination of the heavier diesel engine and extra diesel low-end torque. My RWD Skyline diesel was utterly hopeless, even frightening, in ice. A rear-drive rear-engined van should have better traction for drive (but perhaps not as good for steering) than an FWD gas car. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:26:34 -0800 Reply-To: Leon Korkin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Leon Korkin Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" If i 've gone so far to rebuild brake system, i would definitely remove and clean or replace proportioning valve. After a while they collect a lot of "brake grease", black stuff consisting of parts of rubber seals from master cylinder etc. They can also freeze(piston). Last time i did brake job i poured in a lot of brake fluid before most of the air was gone. It took a lot of bleeding, i thought there was something wrong. Leon 85 Subwagen Westy 11/2/01 12:25:48 PM, KENWILFY@AOL.COM wrote: > > > > I have a '80 Vanagon Westie here that is trying to drive me insane. The > guy brought it in to have some brake work done. He could see that one of > his calipers was leaking and draging and the pedal was feeling soft. > > He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the > front calipers and whatever the brake system needed. > I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the > front and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two > > other vans. > My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front > calipers. We then bled the system. Pedal was still low and it seemed > that you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds it > > was low again. I then inspected the rear brakes. One wheel cylinder was > bad, I replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side. I put a new > drum on and also a new set of shoes. We bled it three more times. Still > low pedal, kinda smooshie. I went out and bought a power bleeder (Mity > > Vac). I had wanted one of these for a while any way. Bled it again, > still the same. I inspected the metal lines and the rubber lines and > found that all of the rubber lines had bulges in them. I thought I had > finally found the problem. I replaced all of the lines with new ones. > > Bled the system again. Still the same!! > > Any suggestions? I am starting to suspect that my helper did something > wrong when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out how > the brake booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal. The only other thing > > I can think of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective. Any > help would be appreciated. Usually brake jobs are so simple, this one is > starting to get to me. > > Thanks, > > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com > Phone: (856)-765-1583 > > Fax: (856)-327-2242 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:34:21 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Feline Comments: To: Matthew Pollard In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Matthew Pollard spoke thus: > Nope. we don't know the exact state the cat is in, but will lock it into > one state or another when we look at it. So the cat is NEITHER dead or > alive, but just is. > > ---OR--- > > a wavefunction will collapse to one value if it is observed, because the > nature of observing it will effect it. There is no way of observing > somethign without effecting it. Sorry, game over. So what is the sound of one hand clapping? Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:44:41 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Holotron Fire Extinguishers Considered MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings List, As November dawns, it's time for decisions re gear upgrades for my coming winter's travels south of the border. Yes! Today, the search is on for a pair of hand held fire extinguishers to be mounted horizontally to driver's/passenger front seat bases. Am considering Kidde Holotron extinguishers from West Marine. ( 5 lb, 15 1/4" long x 4 1/4" diameter ) EPA/USCG approved Holotron is an effective, legal alternative to Halon for Class B & C--liquids, grease, & electrica. Like Halon, Holotron won't damage engine or wiring; 6 year warranty. Cost: $130 plus additional $6 for USCG approved metal bracket. If interested, take a look at www.westmarine.com Comments/suggestions/warnings? Phaedra '85 Wolfsburg Westy "Basecamp" ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:55:17 -0800 Reply-To: Bill Kasper Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Kasper Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_Schr=F6dinger's_Feline?= Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v472) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit same as the sound of a vanagon driving through the forest with no one around to hear it... On Friday, November 2, 2001, at 02:34 , Gnarlodious wrote: > Entity Matthew Pollard spoke thus: > >> Nope. we don't know the exact state the cat is in, but will lock it >> into >> one state or another when we look at it. So the cat is NEITHER dead or >> alive, but just is. >> >> ---OR--- >> >> a wavefunction will collapse to one value if it is observed, because >> the >> nature of observing it will effect it. There is no way of observing >> somethign without effecting it. Sorry, game over. > > So what is the sound of one hand clapping? > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 17:59:22 -0800 Reply-To: Myron Lind Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Myron Lind Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc Comments: cc: FrankGRUN@AOL.COM Frank sez: > As far as I am concerned, the best engine for the Vanagon is a diesel and a > TDi at that. Unfortunately the 1.6 N/A is too underpowered for a 5300 pound > vehicle. Of course, after I got started with the RV engine I wanted more > power and better mountain performance. The SVX and the 2.5 are interesting, > but not enough to deal with Kennedy. I had looked into other conversions when > I did the RV engine including Audi, Porsche (924 and 944), Volvo and Isuzu. > Tried to talk to the Kennedy group. Always brushed off. Tried calling back > over their clutch and pressure plate capability. Eleven tries in 12 months. > Say Vanagon Diesel and you are in the round file. Certainly agree about the > drive and test approach. Best I've driven is the 1.9 TD IDI with a 4.83 rear. > Frank, I enjoy but barely understand your posts. If one was to put a TDI (150ft/lbs or so @ 1900 rpm) into the vanagon, how does one, in your opinion, go about determining proper gearing of the transmission. I am mainly interested in a nice drivable, fuel efficient, Vanagon. The regular WB motors have generally been "peppy" enough for me, I am not after particularly fast acceleration or racing from stoplight to stoplight. What do I miss in overall drivability as I consider mainly 65-70mph road speed. I seems that to match the TDI motor to the vanagon and to still go upwards of 70 mph I should consider a five speed. Why is the diesel less tolerant of high revving than the similar built gasoline engines? Or, why would I want to drive it over 3500-4000 rpm where both the torque and the hp drop rapidly? Mostly just curious Myron Lind 81 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:45:01 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Feline Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable A female cat > From: Gnarlodious > Reply-To: Gnarlodious > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:53:47 -0700 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Schr=F6dinger's Feline >=20 > Actually I believe the cat in question is BOTH dead AND alive during the > experiment (only a feline would be up to this kind of science). >=20 > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com >=20 >=20 > Entity Doug Alcock spoke thus: >=20 >> Check out: http://www.madsciencelaboratories.com/laboratory/cat/index.ht= ml >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:45:58 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Feline Comments: To: Matthew Pollard In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable DEFINITELY female cat > From: Matthew Pollard > Reply-To: Matthew Pollard > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:08:31 -0800 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Schr=F6dinger's Feline >=20 > Nope. we don't know the exact state the cat is in, but will lock it into > one state or another when we look at it. So the cat is NEITHER dead or > alive, but just is. >=20 > ---OR--- >=20 > a wavefunction will collapse to one value if it is observed, because the > nature of observing it will effect it. There is no way of observing > somethign without effecting it. Sorry, game over. >=20 > -Matthew >=20 > Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death > Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" > University of Idaho > www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 >=20 >=20 >=20 > On Fri, 2 Nov 2001, Gnarlodious wrote: >=20 >> Actually I believe the cat in question is BOTH dead AND alive during the >> experiment (only a feline would be up to this kind of science). >>=20 >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:47:05 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Schr=?ISO-8859-1?B?9g==?=dinger's Feline Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable a female cat > From: Gnarlodious > Reply-To: Gnarlodious > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:34:21 -0700 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Schr=F6dinger's Feline >=20 > Entity Matthew Pollard spoke thus: >=20 >> Nope. we don't know the exact state the cat is in, but will lock it into >> one state or another when we look at it. So the cat is NEITHER dead or >> alive, but just is. >>=20 >> ---OR--- >>=20 >> a wavefunction will collapse to one value if it is observed, because the >> nature of observing it will effect it. There is no way of observing >> somethign without effecting it. Sorry, game over. >=20 > So what is the sound of one hand clapping? >=20 > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 18:49:26 -0500 Reply-To: Joe Romas Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Romas Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc Comments: To: Myron Lind MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Myron A diesel has compression ratioes in the neiborhood of 20 to 1 and a gasser seldom has more then 10 to 1. That puts a lot of stress on the engine. That's why they are less tolorant of higher revs. I've had na 1.5 and 1.6 vw diesels and they didn't have a lot of power to say the least even for golfs and rabbits. However both my past 96 passat tdi wagon and current 99.5 tdi jetta haves lotts of pep at a usable rpm. With my jetta, at 60 mph I turn around 2000 rpm's in 5th gear. I'm told these tdi's will do 145 mph! Highest I can confirm is 80 mph how ever as I don't need to go faster. I would think you would want around 3000 rpm's at the highest speed you would normally want to go, say 75 mph, and calculate from there. Like Frank, I would think the best would be a 1.9 TD IDI but don't know much about the gearing to comment on that. However I'm quite satisfied with my 84's 1.9 gasser's preformance. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Myron Lind" To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 8:59 PM Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc > Frank sez: > > > As far as I am concerned, the best engine for the Vanagon is a > diesel and a > > TDi at that. Unfortunately the 1.6 N/A is too underpowered for a > 5300 pound > > vehicle. Of course, after I got started with the RV engine I > wanted more > > power and better mountain performance. The SVX and the 2.5 are > interesting, > > but not enough to deal with Kennedy. I had looked into other > conversions when > > I did the RV engine including Audi, Porsche (924 and 944), Volvo > and Isuzu. > > Tried to talk to the Kennedy group. Always brushed off. Tried > calling back > > over their clutch and pressure plate capability. Eleven tries in > 12 months. > > Say Vanagon Diesel and you are in the round file. Certainly > agree about the > > drive and test approach. Best I've driven is the 1.9 TD IDI with > a 4.83 rear. > > > > Frank, I enjoy but barely understand your posts. > > If one was to put a TDI (150ft/lbs or so @ 1900 rpm) into the > vanagon, how does one, in your opinion, go about determining > proper gearing of the transmission. I am mainly interested in a > nice drivable, fuel efficient, Vanagon. The regular WB motors have > generally been "peppy" enough for me, I am not after particularly > fast acceleration or racing from stoplight to stoplight. What do I > miss in overall drivability as I consider mainly 65-70mph road > speed. I seems that to match the TDI motor to the vanagon and to > still go upwards of 70 mph I should consider a five speed. Why is > the diesel less tolerant of high revving than the similar built > gasoline engines? Or, why would I want to drive it over 3500-4000 > rpm where both the torque and the hp drop rapidly? > > Mostly just curious > > Myron Lind > 81 Westy > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:47:23 -0800 Reply-To: Hans Bos Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Hans Bos Subject: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear list members (and Vanagon experts), I have searched the archives for answers to these questions, but only = found topics concerned with the pros and cons of water vs. air. So, here = goes: I am thinking of replacing my too-large Toyota motorhome with a Westfalia = camper (after renting one in Hawaii and being very pleased with the size = and driveability). In addition to the motorhome I currently own an old = beetle convertible and I'm thinking of replacing the beetle with some kind = of Westfalia that I can actually park in front of the house and use to get = groceries as well as take camping for weekends. The eternal question is = what to buy? I could spend some money on this project (not as much as a = new Eurovan), but of course I would try to spend as little as possible and = still be fairly comfortable. I am very flexible (i.e., I don't really = know what I want). =20 Here are my questions:=20 Aesthetically and emotionally, I think I would prefer a Bay Window Type II = (bus) instead of a Vanagon. What are the advantages of getting an = aircooled Vanagon instead? (I live in California, so I'm assuming I can = find a 70s Type II with a decent body.) Are Vanagons considerably more = comfortable or powerful than Type IIs? If I did decide to get a Vanagon, how would I go about finding one that is = technically sound? Do I need to be more careful with the aircooled ones = or with the water-cooled ones? Are there any shops or used VW dealers in = the Bay Area that specialize in Vanagons and buses? Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen 93s = and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer Vanagons). Are = there things to watch out for when looking at Eurovans? If you had $10k, = would you rather buy an excellent Vanagon or a good Eurovan? =20 Thanks for your help. --Hans Bos (San Francisco, CA) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:58:59 -0800 Reply-To: kirk swezey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: kirk swezey Subject: '89 Carat For Sale in Calif. Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit '89 Vangon Carat for sale in San Francisco Bay Area I have not seen this vehicle but the pictures look good. Owner is asking $5,000 OBO. Color: blue, removable jump seats, folding table, and all the other Carat comforts. Call (925) 548-2956 Kirk '90 Syncro ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 16:05:07 -0800 Reply-To: kirk swezey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: kirk swezey Subject: Wanted: Right Rear Tail Light Lens Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Sorry to repost, but does anyone have an extra right rear tail light lens for sale? Kirk '90 Syncro ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 17:07:32 -0700 Reply-To: "Richard A. Jones" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Richard A. Jones" Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions Comments: To: hbos@MDRCSF.ORG Comments: cc: jones@colorado.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hans: I have owned a '61 and a '67 split-window, a '76, an '81 and an '87. I thought the '76 was the least comfortable to drive, and the Vanagons the most comfortable. I love my '81 which I have had since new, and I love the air-cooled engine, but it is certainly noiser than the '87. Of course, this is comparing a big, empty 7-passenger with a Westy, but it is also rubber mats vs carpet, etc. Also the '87 has much more (and smoother) power in most situations than the '81. But it is certainly more complicated--with water, power steering, etc. I definitely recommend Vanagons over the bay windows. Richard A. Jones Boulder, Colorado '81 Vanagon Mr Bus '87 Syncro Westy El Jefe ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 18:05:19 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions Comments: To: hbos@MDRCSF.ORG MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bos (San Francisco, CA) .............. Bos Wrote Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen 93s and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer Vanagons). Are there things to watch out for when looking at Eurovans? If you had $10k, would you rather buy an excellent Vanagon or a good Eurovan? Stan Wilder wrote: Definitely go for the Eurovan type Westfalia conversion.(92 and up) Horse power is the key and keeping up with traffic can fry an Air-Cooled or throw a rod in A WaserBoxer. Newer is better. Nostalgia is for parked cars. After you've done your first few lengthy trips in your 92 or newer Eurovan you can pick up a splittie as a hobby car. That is the way I'd do it with ten grand. Of course you always have options but you'll want to turn on your Air Conditioner without loosing 15 mph and that knocks out Air-Cooled. Travel should be a pleasure.............. Mountains are great places to camp but you gotta get there first. On Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:47:23 -0800 Hans Bos writes: > Dear list members (and Vanagon experts), > > I have searched the archives for answers to these questions, but > only found topics concerned with the pros and cons of water vs. air. > So, here goes: > > I am thinking of replacing my too-large Toyota motorhome with a > Westfalia camper (after renting one in Hawaii and being very pleased > with the size and driveability). In addition to the motorhome I > currently own an old beetle convertible and I'm thinking of > replacing the beetle with some kind of Westfalia that I can actually > park in front of the house and use to get groceries as well as take > camping for weekends. The eternal question is what to buy? I could > spend some money on this project (not as much as a new Eurovan), but > of course I would try to spend as little as possible and still be > fairly comfortable. I am very flexible (i.e., I don't really know > what I want). > > Here are my questions: > > Aesthetically and emotionally, I think I would prefer a Bay Window > Type II (bus) instead of a Vanagon. What are the advantages of > getting an aircooled Vanagon instead? (I live in California, so I'm > assuming I can find a 70s Type II with a decent body.) Are Vanagons > considerably more comfortable or powerful than Type IIs? > > If I did decide to get a Vanagon, how would I go about finding one > that is technically sound? Do I need to be more careful with the > aircooled ones or with the water-cooled ones? Are there any shops > or used VW dealers in the Bay Area that specialize in Vanagons and > buses? > > Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen > 93s and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer > Vanagons). Are there things to watch out for when looking at > Eurovans? If you had $10k, would you rather buy an excellent > Vanagon or a good Eurovan? > > Thanks for your help. > > ns Bos (San Francisco, CA) > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 19:14:33 EST Reply-To: Dagbear@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Dagastino Subject: Re: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subj: Re: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling Date: 11/2/01 6:09:24 PM Central Standard Time From: Dag bear One of mine broke and I needed to find a replacement quickly. I manufactured one by removing the plastic clip from the van. I cut off the broken part leaving only the barrel into which the adjusting screw fits. I slid that part into a one inch length of 5/16" fuel line hose. I slid this hose into the hole in the headlight bracket. I put a washer on the front and back sides and secured the whole thing with hose clamps on the front and back sides. This was intended to be a temporary replacement until I could get the replacement part but it has worked so well I decided to leave it in place. Rico Dagastino Munford, TN ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 17:41:10 MST Reply-To: UWanna Deal2 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: UWanna Deal2 Subject: Re: [Re: Best Way To Get Factory Parts From The Dealer] Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Once again- Support the parts guys that save you lotsa time and effort with informed-accurate-and FREE- advice and info. Ken for example has saved me tons of time --direct shipping to my door and no sales tax cuz I'm outta state. I usually get the parts next day or= two days tops and I save an hour or two -- Whats your time worth?? and tons off $$ with nifty cost cutting advice- faster-better-- smarter--= ways of fixin- my Vanagons-- I currently own 3 and am responsible for a friends-Vanagon. c'ya around Uwannadeal2 (Steve) aKENWILFY@AOL.COM wrote: > --------------------------------------------- = > Attachment:=A0 = > MIME Type:=A0multipart/alternative = > --------------------------------------------- = Here at Van-Again we also stock many dealer-only parts (like syncro coola= nt hoses). I do not offer a discount over dealer pricing, however I have th= e parts here in stock (instead of having to wait a week or more for them) a= nd I also ONLY charge list (alot of dealers mark up their parts above list!!).= Just FYI. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 19:59:48 -0600 Reply-To: Theresa Reinhardt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Theresa Reinhardt Subject: Stuck in MD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0041_01C163D8.EDA3B820" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C163D8.EDA3B820 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi everybody - I need some advice - and please bear with me, I already feel incredibly stupid as is. Just went to pick up the 82 Diesel Westy I bought in VA. About one hour into the trip back to IL, I was stopped by the police 'cause I had coolant dripping out the rear. Of course, I couldn't find anyone who knew what was going on. I even called the shop that was supposed to give it the "once-over" before I started out - they dind't think it was a problem (by that time, the cap on the expansion tank was missing...) So I continued (yes, I know...) and was finally stopped by an overheated engine just outside Hancock, MD. Of course, it was closing time, Fri afternoon; I barely managed to have it towed to a shop's back lot. A friendly gentleman decided that the engine was leaking coolant (under the doodad that has the injection pumps in it), but no action was taken. I found the only motel in town and am now nursing my anger... What do I do? The body, while a little scratched, dented and=20 rusty in places, is as good as anything I've ever seen that was a lot younger, the inside has some grunge on it, but everything is original and supposed (!!!) to work... I am, however, not terribly inclined to throw a lot of good money after (potentially) bad... and I want a relia ble vehicle. Here are what I think might be my options 1. Sell it here and as is; so anyone who is interested, my cell phone doesn't work in this blessed place, motel # is 301-678-6101 ext. 103. Make me an offer! 2. Find a knowledgeable shop, spend $$$ on towing and a new engine (?) If so, which one? 3. Go home, forget about it and never look at another car again other than my Honda... Anyone have any advice, please?! Down and out in MD, Teresa ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C163D8.EDA3B820 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi everybody
-
I need some advice - and please bear = with=20 me,
I already feel incredibly stupid as=20 is.
 
Just went to pick up the
82 Diesel Westy I bought in VA. About = one hour=20 into
the trip back to IL, I was stopped by = the police=20 'cause I had
coolant dripping out the rear. Of = course, I=20 couldn't find anyone
who knew what was going on. I even = called the shop=20 that
was supposed to give it the "once-over" = before I=20 started out -
they dind't think it was a problem (by = that time,=20 the cap on the
expansion tank was = missing...)
 
So I continued (yes, I know...) and was = finally=20 stopped by
an overheated engine just outside = Hancock, MD. Of=20 course,
it was closing time, Fri afternoon; I = barely=20 managed to have
it towed to a shop's back lot. A = friendly gentleman=20 decided
that the engine was leaking coolant = (under the=20 doodad that has
the injection pumps in it), but no = action was=20 taken.
 
I found the only motel in town and am = now nursing=20 my anger...
What do I do? The body, while a little = scratched,=20 dented and
rusty in places, is as good as anything = I've ever=20 seen that was
a lot younger, the inside has some = grunge on it,=20 but everything
is original and supposed (!!!) to = work... I am,=20 however, not terribly
inclined to throw a lot of good money = after=20 (potentially) bad...
and I want a relia ble = vehicle.
 
Here are what I think might be my=20 options
1. Sell it here and as is; so anyone = who is=20 interested, my
cell phone doesn't work in this blessed = place,=20 motel
# is 301-678-6101 ext. 103. Make me an=20 offer!
 
2. Find a knowledgeable shop, spend $$$ = on towing=20 and
a new engine (?) If so, which = one?
 
3. Go home, forget about it and never = look at=20 another car again
other than my Honda...
 
Anyone have any advice, = please?!
 
Down and out in MD,
Teresa
------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C163D8.EDA3B820-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 21:07:26 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Looking for a passenger side vent window Comments: To: elybug@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f9.11fb1478.2914ab5e_boundary" --part1_f9.11fb1478.2914ab5e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/2/01 1:07:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, elybug@HOTMAIL.COM writes: > Wing window > Someone again tried to get to my CD player in my 84 Vanagon and broke out > the passenger side vent window. Second time. If any one has one for sale I'm > looking one in the Washington DC area. Also I know of a nice 85Gl Westy in > the DC area that is coming up for Sale for around $5,000.00 > Jean > > ive got a bunch of them $25 each --part1_f9.11fb1478.2914ab5e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/2/01 1:07:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, elybug@HOTMAIL.COM writes:


Wing window
 Someone again tried to get to my CD player in my 84 Vanagon and broke out
the passenger side vent window. Second time. If any one has one for sale I'm
looking one in the Washington DC area. Also I know of a nice 85Gl Westy in
the DC area that is coming up for Sale for around $5,000.00
Jean



ive got a bunch of them $25 each
--part1_f9.11fb1478.2914ab5e_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 21:18:30 -0500 Reply-To: Jim Henry Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Henry Subject: Re: new to the list Comments: To: JM060356@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------D12E6B3EFB3B75C85DAA5932" --------------D12E6B3EFB3B75C85DAA5932 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit jim, many years ago, a very wise man told me, " Son, you probably need to rebuild that transmission, but go over to Motor Bearings (friendly local flaps) and buy a can of TransX, a transmission filter, and enough fluid to change your fluid. If it doesn't work, the TransX folks will give your money back." I did and drove that transmission (early 70's chyrsler/amc) for 150k more miles, repeating the process every 30k miles. Cannot say I have direct VW experience with your problem, but I still follow the man's advise. Good luck, drive well. Jim Henry Durham, NC 84 westy Jim Morgan wrote: > I am new so please be kind. I have a 86 GL that I have recently > purchased from a friend. Only 193k on it. now the automatic trans > will not go into reverse when it is cold . Will go in all forward > gears ok and reverse when warmed up. the bently is usless . I figure > it is trans time but would like to know what is wrong before we do the > transplant. Any info or prayers would be appreciated. --------------D12E6B3EFB3B75C85DAA5932 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit jim,
many years ago, a very wise man told me,  " Son, you probably need to rebuild that transmission, but go over to Motor Bearings (friendly local flaps) and buy a can of TransX, a transmission filter, and enough fluid to change your fluid. If it doesn't work, the TransX folks will give your money back."  I did and drove that transmission (early 70's chyrsler/amc) for 150k more miles, repeating the process every 30k miles. Cannot say I have direct VW experience with your problem, but I still follow the man's advise.

Good luck, drive well.

Jim Henry
Durham, NC
84 westy

Jim Morgan wrote:

I am new so please be kind. I have a 86 GL that I have recently purchased from a friend. Only 193k on it. now the automatic trans  will not go into reverse when it is cold . Will go in all forward gears ok and reverse when warmed up. the bently is usless . I   figure it is trans time but would like to know what is wrong before we do the transplant. Any info or prayers would be appreciated.
--------------D12E6B3EFB3B75C85DAA5932-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 21:20:06 -0500 Reply-To: Pat Dooley Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Pat Dooley Subject: Re: new to the list Comments: To: Jim Henry In-Reply-To: <3BE353F6.D8F7BA00@jchgis.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01C163E4.25229040" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C163E4.25229040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just my personal experience: My Audi wouldn't shift into 2nd gear, went from 1st eventually to 3rd. Somebody told me about transx. I tried it, absolutely no difference. I adjusted the 2nd gear band and it worked for another year. Now its really dead. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Jim Henry Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 9:19 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: new to the list jim, many years ago, a very wise man told me, " Son, you probably need to rebuild that transmission, but go over to Motor Bearings (friendly local flaps) and buy a can of TransX, a transmission filter, and enough fluid to change your fluid. If it doesn't work, the TransX folks will give your money back." I did and drove that transmission (early 70's chyrsler/amc) for 150k more miles, repeating the process every 30k miles. Cannot say I have direct VW experience with your problem, but I still follow the man's advise. Good luck, drive well. Jim Henry Durham, NC 84 westy Jim Morgan wrote: I am new so please be kind. I have a 86 GL that I have recently purchased from a friend. Only 193k on it. now the automatic trans will not go into reverse when it is cold . Will go in all forward gears ok and reverse when warmed up. the bently is usless . I figure it is trans time but would like to know what is wrong before we do the transplant. Any info or prayers would be appreciated. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C163E4.25229040 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Just=20 my personal experience:
My=20 Audi wouldn't shift into 2nd gear, went from 1st eventually to = 3rd. =20 Somebody told me about transx.  I tried it, absolutely no = difference. =20 I adjusted the 2nd gear band and it worked for another = year.
Now=20 its really dead.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List=20 [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Jim=20 Henry
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 9:19 PM
To:=20 vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: new to the=20 list

jim,
many years ago, a very wise man told = me,  " Son, you probably need to rebuild that transmission, but = go over=20 to Motor Bearings (friendly local flaps) and buy a can of TransX, a=20 transmission filter, and enough fluid to change your fluid. If it = doesn't=20 work, the TransX folks will give your money back."  I did and = drove that=20 transmission (early 70's chyrsler/amc) for 150k more miles, repeating = the=20 process every 30k miles. Cannot say I have direct VW experience with = your=20 problem, but I still follow the man's advise.=20

Good luck, drive well.=20

Jim Henry
Durham, NC
84 westy=20

Jim Morgan wrote:=20

I am new so please be kind. I have a = 86 GL that=20 I have recently purchased from a friend. Only 193k on it. now the = automatic=20 trans  will not go into reverse when it is cold . Will go in = all=20 forward gears ok and reverse when warmed up. the bently is usless .=20 I   figure it is trans time but would like to know what is = wrong=20 before we do the transplant. Any info or prayers would be=20 = appreciated.
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C163E4.25229040-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 21:38:51 -0500 Reply-To: "John P. Flaherty" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "John P. Flaherty" Subject: How does a Westy Camper Handle in the Snow? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have an 84 GL, and I think it handles great in the snow. Just put a pair of studded snows on it. John Flaherty Portland, Maine ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 17:52:01 -0900 Reply-To: Michael Moery Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Moery Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land In-Reply-To: <14b.36de38c.29145b4c@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0048_01C163C7.13FBDF00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C163C7.13FBDF00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had a dragging brake caliper problem several years ago on my '82. After much frustration and work, I decided to disassemble and inspect the master cylinder. I found that the piston inside consists of two halves that screw together in the middle, and that they had come partly unscrewed, causing one of the two circuits to hold an air bubble in it, since the bleed port to the reservoir never opened to that circuit when the pedal was released. I screwed the pistons back together tight, and the problem was solved. I guess it's possible that you may have a similar problem. Mike Moery, Anchorage, AK ------------------- ||E[__] [__]|[_]\\ | =======| - || * * * =( o )--------( o )=* **'Ol Bessie '82TD Westy*** -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 11:26 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Frustration in Brake Land I have a '80 Vanagon Westie here that is trying to drive me insane. The guy brought it in to have some brake work done. He could see that one of his calipers was leaking and draging and the pedal was feeling soft. He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the front calipers and whatever the brake system needed. I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the front and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two other vans. My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front calipers. We then bled the system. Pedal was still low and it seemed that you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds it was low again. I then inspected the rear brakes. One wheel cylinder was bad, I replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side. I put a new drum on and also a new set of shoes. We bled it three more times. Still low pedal, kinda smooshie. I went out and bought a power bleeder (Mity Vac). I had wanted one of these for a while any way. Bled it again, still the same. I inspected the metal lines and the rubber lines and found that all of the rubber lines had bulges in them. I thought I had finally found the problem. I replaced all of the lines with new ones. Bled the system again. Still the same!! Any suggestions? I am starting to suspect that my helper did something wrong when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out how the brake booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal. The only other thing I can think of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective. Any help would be appreciated. Usually brake jobs are so simple, this one is starting to get to me. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C163C7.13FBDF00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I had a dragging brake caliper = problem several years ago on my ’82.  After much frustration and work, I decided to disassemble and = inspect the master cylinder.  I = found that the piston inside consists of two halves that screw together in the = middle, and that they had come partly unscrewed, causing one of the two circuits to = hold an air bubble in it, since the bleed port to the reservoir never opened to = that circuit when the pedal was released.  I screwed the pistons back together tight, and the problem was solved.  I guess it’s = possible that you may have a similar problem.

 

Mike Moery, = Anchorage, AK

   =      -------------------
       
||E[__] [__]|[_]\\
  &nbs= p;    | =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D| -   ||  
* * * =  =3D( = o )--------( o )=3Dp =
  
'Ol Bessie  '82TD Westy   

 

-----Original = Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of KENWILFY@AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, November = 02, 2001 11:26 AM
To: = vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Frustration in = Brake Land

 

I have a '80 Vanagon Westie = here that is trying to drive me insane.  The guy brought it in to have = some brake work done.  He could see that one of his calipers was leaking = and draging and the pedal was feeling soft.  
He told me to replace the brake booster, the master cylinder, and the = front calipers and whatever the brake system needed.
I had a set of known good, used calipers that we decided to use for the = front and I set my helper on this project because I was busy with two other = vans.
My helper replaced the booster, the master cylinder, and the two front calipers.  We then bled the system.  Pedal was still low and = it seemed that you could pump it up, then let off of it, and after a few seconds = it was low again.  I then inspected the rear brakes.  One wheel = cylinder was bad, I replaced that and I also had a thin drum on one side.  I put = a new drum on and also a new set of shoes.  We bled it three more times.  Still low pedal, kinda smooshie.  I went out and bought a = power bleeder (Mity Vac).  I had wanted one of these for a while any way.  Bled it again, still the same.  I inspected the metal lines = and the rubber lines and found that all of the rubber lines had bulges in them. =  I thought I had finally found the problem.  I replaced all of the = lines with new ones.  Bled the system again.  Still the same!!

Any suggestions?  I am starting to suspect that my helper did = something wrong when he installed the brake booster, however I can't figure out = how the brake booster could cause a low, smooshie pedal.  The only other = thing I can think of is that the one of the parts we put on is defective. =  Any help would be appreciated.  Usually brake jobs are so simple, this = one is starting to get to me.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C163C7.13FBDF00-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 19:55:44 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: new to the list Comments: To: Pat Dooley If all else fails, try a couple capsful of brake fluid. It's supposed to swell the seals a bit so that they seal better. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat Dooley" To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 7:20 PM Subject: Re: new to the list > Just my personal experience: > My Audi wouldn't shift into 2nd gear, went from 1st eventually to 3rd. > Somebody told me about transx. I tried it, absolutely no difference. I > adjusted the 2nd gear band and it worked for another year. > Now its really dead. > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of > Jim Henry > Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 9:19 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: new to the list > > > jim, > many years ago, a very wise man told me, " Son, you probably need to > rebuild that transmission, but go over to Motor Bearings (friendly local > flaps) and buy a can of TransX, a transmission filter, and enough fluid to > change your fluid. If it doesn't work, the TransX folks will give your money > back." I did and drove that transmission (early 70's chyrsler/amc) for 150k > more miles, repeating the process every 30k miles. Cannot say I have direct > VW experience with your problem, but I still follow the man's advise. > Good luck, drive well. > > Jim Henry > Durham, NC > 84 westy > > Jim Morgan wrote: > > I am new so please be kind. I have a 86 GL that I have recently > purchased from a friend. Only 193k on it. now the automatic trans will not > go into reverse when it is cold . Will go in all forward gears ok and > reverse when warmed up. the bently is usless . I figure it is trans time > but would like to know what is wrong before we do the transplant. Any info > or prayers would be appreciated. > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 20:14:48 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Comments: To: Theresa Reinhardt In-Reply-To: <004401c1640b$3aa208c0$05f02f3f@oemcomputer> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Theresa Reinhardt spoke thus: >coolant dripping out the rear. Would it be safe to say "they saw you coming"? >an overheated engine Well it is not burned up is it? >that the engine was leaking coolant (under the doodad that has >the injection pumps in it) There isn't any such doodad. The injection pump isn't in anything and there is only one. Under the pump the mount for the water pump bolts on to the block. There are three long bolts through the flange and a rubber O ring between the two parts in a groove. However a leaky ring will eventually rust through the bolt and the pump is forced out by pressure. Even if this is not the reason it is still a problem area in the diesel and a mechanic needs to take it apart and fix it right. >but no action was taken. OK, assuming the engine did not burn up your best course of action is to have a good mechanic fix it, this is not a diesel specific problem and anyone can do it. The best way is to remove the alternator to get to the water pump then take off the pump to see what is happening. You could do it yourself. >I found the only motel in town and am now nursing my anger... Don't give up yet! This is the adventure of life! Rise to the challenge! Overcome! >a new engine (?) If so, which one? What do you mean? Just fix the one you have now and drive to Illinois. Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 21:33:47 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:______Re:_Schr=F6dinger's_Feline?= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > So what is the sound of one hand clapping? The echo of the completely empty valley bears tidings heard from the soundless sound. :) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 23:11:22 -0800 Reply-To: Thewestyman Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Thewestyman Subject: Re: Stuck in MD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005C_01C163F3.AFCDFE00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C163F3.AFCDFE00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Even though I am halfway out the door with moving and the shop is = closed, the call of a stranded Vanagon owner in my neck of the woods = must be answered. I've spoken with Theresa by phone and she is having = the Westy towed in to my shop for emergency waterpump replacement (or so = we hope that is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last new pump = on the shelf! Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to = Theresa's dilemma, hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow = with her new Westy.=20 Karl Mullendore ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C163F3.AFCDFE00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Even though I am halfway out the door = with moving=20 and the shop is closed, the call of a stranded Vanagon owner in my neck = of the=20 woods must be answered. I've spoken with Theresa by phone and she is = having the=20 Westy towed in to my shop for emergency waterpump replacement (or so we = hope=20 that is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last new pump on the = shelf!=20 Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to Theresa's = dilemma,=20 hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow with her new Westy.=20
 
Karl Mullendore
 
------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C163F3.AFCDFE00-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 20:14:47 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Comments: To: Thewestyman In-Reply-To: <005f01c16436$bee3db60$7ac10f3f@com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII hmmm, another available woman with a vanagon.... ??? and cheers to the folks for helping her. I raise my beer to you. Cheers to good karma -Matthew Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 20:22:35 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: Stuck in MD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Way to go, Karl! When I saw Theresa's post, even tho I am hopelessly mechanically challenged & thousands of miles away, I picked up the phone & gave her a call just to say hello & see if she needed help reinstating her sense of humor. You just never know how you might end up "meeting" list members! Glad to know the situation's well in hand, Phaedra ----- Original Message ----- >Even though I am halfway out the door with moving and the shop is closed, the call of a >stranded Vanagon owner in my neck of the woods must be answered. I've spoken with >Theresa by phone and she is having the Westy towed in to my shop for emergency >waterpump replacement (or so we hope that is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last >new pump on the shelf! Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to Theresa's >dilemma, hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow with her new Westy. Karl Mullendore ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 20:20:22 -0800 Reply-To: Brent Christensen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brent Christensen Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions Comments: To: hbos@MDRCSF.ORG Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hans - common questions, all of them good ones. Here are my (non-technical and unscientific) opinions: >Are Vanagons considerably more comfortable or powerful than Type IIs? Ahh yes, I battled with this one too, especially after having a '72 7-passenger in college. Main differences? Better suspension and brakes, much more interior room, and you won't get blown into the next lane on a windy day. Parts are more expensive, and there seem to be more parts to break on Vanagons. >If I did decide to get a Vanagon, how would I go about finding one >that is >technically sound? There are many checks to undertake - there is a good list of things to start with on vanagon.com go to the Info section, then go to articles/essays (or bypass the frames and go to http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/#buying ) >Do I need to be more careful with the aircooled ones or with the >water->cooled ones? That seems to be like the Ford vs. Chevy debate - both sides are passionate. I for one cannot understand why anyone would want either a 1.6L diesel or aircooled Vanagon, but obviously not everyone agrees with me. I would steer towards a '86.5 to '91 Vanagon if you have the budget - the amenities tend to be nicer (power windows, brakes, steering, etc) and the '88-'91s have cooler looking bumpers. :-) >Are there any shops or used VW dealers in the Bay Area that specialize >in >Vanagons and buses? Absolutely - there are also a lot of Listmembers in the Bay Area. Again check out the vendors-->recommended shops area of www.vanagon.com for some specific recommendations. Cheers, Brent Christensen '89 GL Syncro Westy Santa Barbara, CA >Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen 93s >and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer Vanagons). Are >there things to watch out for when looking at Eurovans? If you had $10k, >would you rather buy an excellent Vanagon or a good Eurovan? > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 20:26:47 -0800 Reply-To: Brent Christensen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brent Christensen Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Comments: To: thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed After over a year "off the list" I just jumped back in today. I have to say that is is this very sort of interaction that I have missed. Karl, Mark beat me to the punch in alerting you. :-) Brent Christensen '89 GL Syncro Westy Santa Barbara, CA >From: Thewestyman >Reply-To: Thewestyman >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: Stuck in MD >Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 23:11:22 -0800 > >Even though I am halfway out the door with moving and the shop is closed, >the call of a stranded Vanagon owner in my neck of the woods must be >answered. I've spoken with Theresa by phone and she is having the Westy >towed in to my shop for emergency waterpump replacement (or so we hope that >is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last new pump on the shelf! >Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to Theresa's dilemma, >hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow with her new Westy. > >Karl Mullendore > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:35:38 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re Japanese Van Images Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Someone asked me a day or 2 ago for images of Hiace and Estima... and I've had Eudora problems and lost your message (address). Please p-mail me again so I can send them... -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:35:38 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: 85 - 91 Vanagon -- 2wd drive performance in snow and ice. In-Reply-To: <000901c163ec$47803220$c837393f@com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Make sure you have "all season" tires! or you'll slip and slide all over the >place! >Bobo NOT if you want good handling! All-season tires are a huge compromise, don't do anything well, and do NOT give good grip in the dry or wet. Compromise tres will give compromised handling, and thousands die in the North American market every year because of this, as these tires are so popular there. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:35:38 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc In-Reply-To: <00ae01c163f9$01f5b150$035a5a5a@joe> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" > A diesel has compression ratioes in the neiborhood of 20 to 1 and a >gasser seldom has more then 10 to 1. That puts a lot of stress on the >engine. That's why they are less tolorant of higher revs. I've had na 1.5 >and 1.6 vw diesels and they didn't have a lot of power to say the least even >for golfs and rabbits. However both my past 96 passat tdi wagon and current >99.5 tdi jetta haves lotts of pep at a usable rpm. With my jetta, at 60 mph >I turn around 2000 rpm's in 5th gear. I'm told these tdi's will do 145 mph! >Highest I can confirm is 80 mph how ever as I don't need to go faster. I >would think you would want around 3000 rpm's at the highest speed you would >normally want to go, say 75 mph, and calculate from there. Like Frank, I >would think the best would be a 1.9 TD IDI but don't know much about the >gearing to comment on that. However I'm quite satisfied with my 84's 1.9 >gasser's preformance. 4-stroke bike engines are often 11:1 or more, and rev to 15000rpm or more. Twostroke diesel model-aircreft engines rev to the stratosphere. VW's 1.6 commercial diesels appear to be very low-geared, perhaps because of the ridiculously small capacity (1.9TDi vans may be taller-geared). The Japanese tend to go the other way. Tall gearing is the norm here, and I've had 170kmh out of a Corona 2.0 diesel on the flat, and 185 downhill in an old Corolla 1.8 diesel, with plenty left before redline (5000rpm); given a long-enough hill, they'd probably top 200 (125mph). My Corolla 1.8 van has considerably lower gearing, accelerates and holds speed uphill better, is no less economical or slower, but is more noisy. The Estima 2.2 TD will top 160kmh easily enough, and not revving hard (ours is probably out of tune or worn, and won't reach this speed). These cars, driven hard, get about 34-35mpg (our gallon is bigger, so say maybe 40 US mpg). I cannot BELIEVE the claims for 40 US mpg for diesel Vanagons which I keep seeing on the list!! Or that a Jetta TDi can get anywhere near to 145mph. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:35:38 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Aesthetically and emotionally, I think I would prefer a Bay Window >Type II (bus) instead of a Vanagon. The Vanagon is a minibus too. Personally, I prefer the looks of the T3 Type 2 (Vanagon), so long as it has South African grills, to the T2 Type 2 (Bay). But why not try to get a T1 Type 2 (Split) with sliding door? The T1 beats everthing else hands-down esthetically... a beautiful machine. The T1/2 is big but the T3 is even bigger (wider). >What are the advantages of getting an aircooled Vanagon instead? (I >live in California, so I'm assuming I can find a 70s Type II with a >decent body.) Are Vanagons considerably more comfortable or >powerful than Type IIs? T3s are less bare-bones than T2s or T1s, though a visit to an good upholstery shop could cure much of that. A good T2 can perform well if it's a 1.8 or 2.0... avoid the 1.6 like the plague (but the 1.6 T2 wasn't sold in North America). Aircooled T3s are known for sluggishness, even more so than watercooled T3s. Watercoolers sold in most of the world performed much better, with 115 or so hp, but the stock wateboxer is all too often unreliable. >If I did decide to get a Vanagon, how would I go about finding one >that is technically sound? Buy one fitted with a Subaru EG or EJ engine. Or buy a good (cheap) watercooler with dud engine and repower it. And join the subaruvanagon Yahoo Group too. you could Subaru a T1 or T2 too. >Do I need to be more careful with the aircooled ones or with the >water-cooled ones? The other way around... >Are there any shops or used VW dealers in the Bay Area that >specialize in Vanagons and buses? BenT will no doubt step in here, if not before. >Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen >93s and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer >Vanagons). Are there things to watch out for when looking at >Eurovans? If you had $10k, would you rather buy an excellent >Vanagon or a good Eurovan? T3!!! The T4 Type 2 ("Eurovan") is an FWD generic piece of ****. Too long for its cargo capacity, unreliable 5-cylinder engine, ugly, could be a Ford... also the rear-engined beast will handle better, in theory without the terminal understeer of the T4. This may however not matter to you, but in an accident-producing situation the T4 could kill you by understeering into an obstruction or over that cliff... -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:35:38 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc In-Reply-To: <001101c1640b$3e27d420$3d4eded8@default> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Frank sez: > >> As far as I am concerned, the best engine for the Vanagon is a >diesel and a >> TDi at that. Unfortunately the 1.6 N/A is too underpowered for a >5300 pound > > vehicle. Why not fit a Toyota EFI 3.0 turbodiesel four from a Hiace or Hilux? You'd need a Porsche G50 trans too, to handle the torque. These engines really flyk, and apparently they don't crack heads. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 22:40:39 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Comments: To: Thewestyman MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C163EF.65AAA3E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C163EF.65AAA3E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Bless you! I was hoping there was someone nearby who could help = Theresa. And thank you, Mark. Dave in KC 85 Westy http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Thewestyman=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 1:11 AM Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Even though I am halfway out the door with moving and the shop is = closed, the call of a stranded Vanagon owner in my neck of the woods = must be answered. I've spoken with Theresa by phone and she is having = the Westy towed in to my shop for emergency waterpump replacement (or so = we hope that is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last new pump = on the shelf! Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to = Theresa's dilemma, hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow = with her new Westy.=20 Karl Mullendore ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C163EF.65AAA3E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Bless you!  I was hoping there was someone = nearby who=20 could help Theresa.  And thank you, Mark.
 
Dave in KC
85 Westy
http://members.fortune= city.com/davebaker1
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Thewestyman
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Saturday, November 03, = 2001 1:11=20 AM
Subject: Re: Stuck in MD

Even though I am halfway out the door = with moving=20 and the shop is closed, the call of a stranded Vanagon owner in my = neck of the=20 woods must be answered. I've spoken with Theresa by phone and she is = having=20 the Westy towed in to my shop for emergency waterpump replacement (or = so we=20 hope that is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last new pump = on the=20 shelf! Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to = Theresa's=20 dilemma, hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow with her = new=20 Westy.
 
Karl Mullendore
 
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C163EF.65AAA3E0-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 22:14:29 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Comments: To: Matthew Pollard In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Here here! > From: Matthew Pollard > Reply-To: Matthew Pollard > Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 20:14:47 -0800 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Stuck in MD > > hmmm, another available woman with a vanagon.... ??? > > and cheers to the folks for helping her. I raise my beer to you. > > Cheers to good karma > -Matthew > > Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death > Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" > University of Idaho > www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 02:16:00 EST Reply-To: DuryeaFineArt@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Duryea Subject: stranded nevermore MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_c6.11787a8.2914f3b0_boundary" --part1_c6.11787a8.2914f3b0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit God bless the heros and the little lady! Bill Colo springs 87 Sync --part1_c6.11787a8.2914f3b0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit God bless the heros  and the little lady!
Bill
Colo springs
87 Sync
--part1_c6.11787a8.2914f3b0_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 23:21:49 -0800 Reply-To: Robert Keezer Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Keezer Subject: Syncro snorkel on e-bay Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed hey kids-I have a complete snorkel system with dirt trap on e-bay for syncros and will retrofit all Vanagons. I have had a bunch of stuff for Vanagons here doing no one any good stuffed in boxes so I though i would alert you in case you aren't a e-bay surfer. Yeah of course I hope to make a little money on it but I know you won't mind that because if I don't you can sell it and maybe it's worth a fortune. I made one of these to work in my 82 Vanagon which is originally a Diesel that has a snorkel -I added the dirt trap and rubber hose and it works great with the air-cleaner in the old battery tray. The snorkel is on the same side as the syncro now. (inline -four engine 2.0 Golf) Less dirt in the air filter is a good thing. I don't know if it's air tight enough for fording rivers-something I'll never do in my Westfalia you can be sure! Robert 1982 Westfalia Seattle _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 04:19:12 -0500 Reply-To: Joe Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Subject: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 In-Reply-To: <86.11f3a1dc.291408ce@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, this is WAY "OT" but this is something of an emergency so please allow this intrusion. Because they lost most of it I find myself needing to fax almost my entire medical record to the Veteran's Administration. I got several estimates from "Kinko's" and other such places, the lowest of which was about $80. If I went the Kinko's route I would be out $80 but if I kicked in a few extra bucks and got a cheap flatbed scanner I could do my own faxing plus I would be covered in the all-too-likely event they lose it again (I already have the fax modem and other stuff). I did not think there would be all that much to buying a flatbed scanner but a trip to Best Buy, CompUSA and a few other stores showed me different. I need some objective advice. Several tries on the search engine yielded nothing but ads who's only advice was "buy me now!". It occurred to me that most of the folks on the Vanagon list were fairly level headed and practical. I also remembered several occasions where a number of list members talked about digitizing one thing or another for posting or emailing. This, plus the fact that it is Friday convinced me that this fishing expeditiion might be worth a shot. I figure the worst that could happen is someonw would have a good time chewing me out for no Vanagon content. So..... Can someone here recommend a good Flatbed Scanner for about $100? Any warnings of models to keep away from? Any help appreciated. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 03:24:36 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Stuck in MD Comments: To: Thewestyman In-Reply-To: <005f01c16436$bee3db60$7ac10f3f@com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I am so relieved someone is helping Theresa, I only wish it had happened in Santa Fe so I could have helped! Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com Entity Thewestyman spoke thus: Even though I am halfway out the door with moving and the shop is closed, the call of a stranded Vanagon owner in my neck of the woods must be answered. I've spoken with Theresa by phone and she is having the Westy towed in to my shop for emergency waterpump replacement (or so we hope that is all it needs!). Luckily, I still have one last new pump on the shelf! Thanks to listmember Mark Drillock for alerting me to Theresa's dilemma, hopefully she will be on her way back home tomorrow with her new Westy. Karl Mullendore ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 06:05:26 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: Re: Oil Filter Question Comments: cc: groch@worldchat.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_7b.1d92443b.29152976_boundary" --part1_7b.1d92443b.29152976_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/2/2001 4:27:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > Oil Filter Question Chad, I've been using the Canadian Tire brand Motormaster filter sinc= e=20 I bought my '87 Westy seven years ago. Now with 350,000 km on the original=20 engine I don't think there's any problems with the Motormaster filter ! Oil= =20 and filter changed every 3~5000 km. Never have any lifter noise unless the=20 engine has not been run for a few weeks which rarely occurs as it's my daily= =20 driver. Peace=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper camping event, Almonte, ON, May 30, 31, June 1, 2, 2002 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_7b.1d92443b.29152976_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/2/2001 4:27:14 PM Eastern Standard Tim= e, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


Oil Filter Question

       Chad, I've been using the Canadian Tire= brand Motormaster filter since I bought my '87 Westy seven years ago. = Now with 350,000 km on the original engine I don't think there's any proble= ms with the Motormaster filter !  Oil and filter changed every 3~5000 k= m.  Never have any lifter noise unless the engine has not been run for=20= a few weeks which rarely occurs as it's my daily driver.

Peace=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a VW C= amper camping event, Almonte, ON, May 30, 31, June 1, 2, 2002
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &=20= Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_7b.1d92443b.29152976_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 06:07:01 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: Re: Oil Filter Question Comments: cc: groch@worldchat.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_44.15aa90c1.291529d5_boundary" --part1_44.15aa90c1.291529d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/2/2001 4:27:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > Oil Filter Question Chad, I've been using the Canadian Tire brand Motormaster filter sinc= e=20 I bought my '87 Westy seven years ago. Now with 350,000 km on the original=20 engine I don't think there's any problems with the Motormaster filter ! Oil= =20 and filter changed every 3~5000 km. Never have any lifter noise unless the=20 engine has not been run for a few weeks which rarely occurs as it's my daily= =20 driver. Peace=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper camping event, Almonte, ON, May 30, 31, June 1, 2, 2002 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_44.15aa90c1.291529d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/2/2001 4:27:14 PM Eastern Standard Tim= e, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


Oil Filter Question

       Chad, I've been using the Canadian Tire= brand Motormaster filter since I bought my '87 Westy seven years ago. = Now with 350,000 km on the original engine I don't think there's any proble= ms with the Motormaster filter !  Oil and filter changed every 3~5000 k= m.  Never have any lifter noise unless the engine has not been run for=20= a few weeks which rarely occurs as it's my daily driver.

Peace=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a VW C= amper camping event, Almonte, ON, May 30, 31, June 1, 2, 2002
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &=20= Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_44.15aa90c1.291529d5_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 00:42:18 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Uhh. Bigger gallons for you mean more miles per gallon. We'd get fewer. > >I think? Yup. Which is partly why I can't believe a Van could get 40mpg US (?45 imperial?). Regards Andrew ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 00:42:18 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >We never got the engines and thus could never get them imported because of >smog rules. > >Aren't G50's kind of pricey? About $1200US for my LSD 1989 G50 (purchased in Germany; about $2700 if bought in USA), and these don't break or wear out... fitting it to the van body will probably cost more, apart from the KEP kit. A Toyota 3.0 TDi should have fewer smog problems than US diesels or old VW ones... aren't the 3.0 diesel Hiluxes sold there? The 3.0 Prado probably also uses this engine (1KZ-T). Regards Andrew ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 00:42:18 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions Comments: To: DuryeaFineArt@aol.com In-Reply-To: <107.802eaca.2914f772@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Ooooooooooooooh, where can I see one those So. Afro grilles?????!!! >Bill Colo Springs >'87 Syncro >'87 GL Right here... or at least, the attachment... (not my van, but an image from someone in USA). VanAgain sells them, so does Bus Depot and someone else on the list (named Cohen), but these guys charge! To bring one set (2 grills, 2 lights with mounts) cost myself & another Kiwi subaruvanagon listee $205US each... including surface-rate mail and $41US each to cover the South African listee's trouble; both sets sent in one factory grill box, no breakages. Note that the lower grill in the photo is stock narrow German, with Projektzwo extensions which house lights; these are crap[pily-made and VERY expensive. The RSA lower grill is one-piece full-width, has no lights and looks much better! Of course the list will strip off the jpeg... Regards Andrew ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 08:01:55 EST Reply-To: Galoobs@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mike Galoob Subject: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ae.1d2e8b8b.291544c3_boundary" --part1_ae.1d2e8b8b.291544c3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Schrodinger's Cat is a paradox not because he expects you to believe that a cat can be in a state of being both alive and dead (or neither) but rather that the laws of Quantum mechanics (which he devised!) seem to be unable to transcend some boundary between the microscopic and the macroscopic scale. Why doesn't the superposition state of the decaying atom carry over to the billions of wave states that combine to form the cat? One answer is a concept known as decoherance. It basically employs the notion that wave functions have a phase just as an electromagnetic wave such as light has phase. Only light waves of similar phase can display interference, evidence of a superposition state. Due to the multitude of wavestates in the cat, they statistically cannot be in phase to the extent as to be able to merge wave functions in the manner of superposition. Thus "spooky" Quantum effects observed on the atomic scale cannot carry over to the multiphase macroscopic systems of our scale. Mike Galoob 81 westy 88 Subaru GL-10 --part1_ae.1d2e8b8b.291544c3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Schrodinger's Cat is a paradox not because he expects you to believe that a cat can be in a state of being both alive and dead (or neither) but rather that the laws of Quantum mechanics (which he devised!) seem to be unable to transcend some boundary between the microscopic and the macroscopic scale. Why doesn't the superposition state of the decaying atom carry over to the billions of wave states that combine to form the cat? One answer is a concept known as decoherance. It basically employs the notion that wave functions have a phase just as an electromagnetic wave such as light has phase. Only light waves of similar phase can display interference, evidence of a superposition state. Due to the multitude of wavestates in the cat, they statistically cannot be in phase to the extent as to be able to merge wave functions in the manner of superposition. Thus "spooky" Quantum effects observed on the atomic scale cannot carry over to the multiphase macroscopic systems of our scale.

Mike Galoob
81 westy
88 Subaru GL-10  
--part1_ae.1d2e8b8b.291544c3_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 08:37:00 -0800 Reply-To: Myron Lind Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Myron Lind Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff Hi Andrew. About the only diesels here in the US are the VW. In the large pickup trucks is the next series, a bit larger than I want for a vanagon. 7.0 Liter or so. How do I find a G50 in Germany? ----- Original Message ----- From: Andrew Grebneff To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 4:42 AM Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc > >We never got the engines and thus could never get them imported because of > >smog rules. > > > >Aren't G50's kind of pricey? > > About $1200US for my LSD 1989 G50 (purchased in Germany; about $2700 > if bought in USA), and these don't break or wear out... fitting it to > the van body will probably cost more, apart from the KEP kit. > > A Toyota 3.0 TDi should have fewer smog problems than US diesels or > old VW ones... aren't the 3.0 diesel Hiluxes sold there? The 3.0 > Prado probably also uses this engine (1KZ-T). > > Regards > Andrew > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 06:47:13 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: Galoobs@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit What a relief to know I will never be simultaneously dead and alive! Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com Entity Mike Galoob spoke thus: Schrodinger's Cat is a paradox not because he expects you to believe that a cat can be in a state of being both alive and dead (or neither) but rather that the laws of Quantum mechanics (which he devised!) seem to be unable to transcend some boundary between the microscopic and the macroscopic scale. Why doesn't the superposition state of the decaying atom carry over to the billions of wave states that combine to form the cat? One answer is a concept known as decoherance. It basically employs the notion that wave functions have a phase just as an electromagnetic wave such as light has phase. Only light waves of similar phase can display interference, evidence of a superposition state. Due to the multitude of wavestates in the cat, they statistically cannot be in phase to the extent as to be able to merge wave functions in the manner of superposition. Thus "spooky" Quantum effects observed on the atomic scale cannot carry over to the multiphase macroscopic systems of our scale. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 09:08:48 -0500 Reply-To: Joe Romas Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Romas Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 Comments: To: Joe MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joe, From one Joe to another, you don't need a expensive scanner. Mine is a UMAX Astra 1220U. It's as you probably guessed, 1200 DPI and USB interface flatbed scanner. If your PC is fairly new with a reliable USB interface that's all you need. I once had a HP SCSI scanner and SCSI introduced a whole new can of worms for me. My scanner does a great job of color photos and the like. I also use the "copy machine" feature to fax documents, but it's one page at a time. But with better software you could scan and save each page then fax the entire lot. That being said, look at the software that comes with the scanner. Also if any of your documents are 8.5X14 or legal size, make sure you get one that will do that. Also don't forget the long distance phone charges if it's not a 800 number. And last but not least, DON'T get a parallel interface model, it's made for printers!!! ( I know some will disagree on this point) Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 4:19 AM Subject: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 > Yes, this is WAY "OT" but this is something of an emergency so please allow > this intrusion. > Because they lost most of it I find myself needing to fax almost my entire > medical record to the Veteran's Administration. I got several estimates from > "Kinko's" and other such places, the lowest of which was about $80. If I > went the Kinko's route I would be out $80 but if I kicked in a few extra > bucks and got a cheap flatbed scanner I could do my own faxing plus I would > be covered in the all-too-likely event they lose it again (I already have > the fax modem and other stuff). > I did not think there would be all that much to buying a flatbed scanner > but a trip to Best Buy, CompUSA and a few other stores showed me different. > I need some objective advice. Several tries on the search engine yielded > nothing but ads who's only advice was "buy me now!". It occurred to me that > most of the folks on the Vanagon list were fairly level headed and > practical. I also remembered several occasions where a number of list > members talked about digitizing one thing or another for posting or > emailing. This, plus the fact that it is Friday convinced me that this > fishing expeditiion might be worth a shot. I figure the worst that could > happen is someonw would have a good time chewing me out for no Vanagon > content. So..... > > Can someone here recommend a good Flatbed Scanner for about $100? Any > warnings of models to keep away from? Any help appreciated. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 09:21:54 EST Reply-To: Vanagony@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Paul Kirsch Subject: Blowing Voltage Regulator For Guages MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A friend's 83 water cooled Vanagon has trouble with the dash guage voltage regulator. Intermittantly when starting, the regulator blows and guages are thus dead. Grounds have been checked and cleaned. An additional ground has been installed from the starter to the body. He is considering putting a ground wire from the starter to the battery. Any ideas? Paul Kirsch ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 08:43:41 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 Comments: To: Joe MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joe wrote: > Can someone here recommend a good Flatbed Scanner for about $100? Any > > warnings of models to keep away from? Any help appreciated. Joe, I ran into the Same problem with Kinko's. I need a bunch of pictures scanned. They wanted like $110 for the job. I went next door to CompUSA and found a parallel interface UMAX Astra scanner for $79. You can probably bet a USB interface unit for the same money nowadays. It's sitting on my desk now and works great. It is plain and simple. No whistles and bells. No scan button on the front. Everything is software actuated. But it gets the job done. If I want it to, it scans with a resolution far greater than any that I will ever use unless I want to have an image published. Most color scans that I work with are done at 300 dpi and that is plenty. For black and white scanned records 150 dpi is plenty. Anything you want to publish on the Net works best at 72 to 96 pixels because of the speed of loading. Any greater resolution, while nice, takes forever to load. But for faxing purposes, if you scan at 150 dpi the records should be fine. Good luck. John Rodgers 88 Gl Driver ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 09:16:20 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Holotron Fire Extinguishers Considered Comments: To: PSavage In-Reply-To: PSavage 's message of Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:44:41 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Phaedra, Better read the label real good---this stuff is toxic !! The Fe 241 is as good as Halon, but very toxic The FM 200 isn't as toxic, but less effective as Halon. What is as good a s Halon, is the anqueous foam extinguisher. This is what most of the race car round de round guys are using. And none of of this Halon replacement stuff is cheap. Love and kisses, Smokey the Bear ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 09:40:43 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > What a relief to know I will never be simultaneously dead and alive! so, this Schrodinger ... is he the one that tied the buttered bread to the back of his cat and threw the cat off the kitchen counter?? see, that way, the cat tries to land on its feet, but the buttered bread tries to land on the buttered side, and the cat/bread just sit there spinning in mid-air ... virtual anti-gravity. :) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:45:53 -0500 Reply-To: Joe Romas Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Romas Subject: Re: Blowing Voltage Regulator For Guages Comments: To: Vanagony@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It's possible they are blowing just after starting when the altenator is charging the most and the voltage regulator is dropping the most voltage. A bad connection at or near the battery is a good place to start. Also there was a recent post about loosing altenator grounds at the mount. I would check the whole battery/charging/starting system for resistance. There are a lot of areas for bad connections in our older vans. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Kirsch" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 9:21 AM Subject: Blowing Voltage Regulator For Guages > A friend's 83 water cooled Vanagon has trouble with the dash guage voltage > regulator. Intermittantly when starting, the regulator blows and guages are > thus dead. Grounds have been checked and cleaned. An additional ground has > been installed from the starter to the body. He is considering putting a > ground wire from the starter to the battery. Any ideas? > > > Paul Kirsch > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 09:02:55 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 Comments: To: John Rodgers John, Scanning for internet publication above 72 dpi is actually not any nicer than scanning AT 72dpi, since that's about the maximum resolution of the computer screen. Anything finer doesn't look any better, but as you pointed out, does take longer to load. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Rodgers" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 7:43 AM Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 > Joe wrote: > > > Can someone here recommend a good Flatbed Scanner for about $100? Any > > > > warnings of models to keep away from? Any help appreciated. > > Joe, I ran into the Same problem with Kinko's. I need a bunch of pictures scanned. They > wanted like $110 for the job. I went next door to CompUSA and found a parallel > interface UMAX Astra scanner for $79. You can probably bet a USB interface unit for the > same money nowadays. > > It's sitting on my desk now and works great. It is plain and simple. No whistles and > bells. No scan button on the front. Everything is software actuated. But it gets the > job done. If I want it to, it scans with a resolution far greater than any that I will > ever use unless I want to have an image published. Most color scans that I work with > are done at 300 dpi and that is plenty. For black and white scanned records 150 dpi is > plenty. > > Anything you want to publish on the Net works best at 72 to 96 pixels because of the > speed of loading. Any greater resolution, while nice, takes forever to load. But for > faxing purposes, if you scan at 150 dpi the records should be fine. > > Good luck. > > John Rodgers > 88 Gl Driver > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:40:34 -0500 Reply-To: LKY Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: LKY Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 Comments: To: Joe In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joe, How about going to Kinkos and making a coy of your medical record and priority mailing or FEDEX it to the VA. Les > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf > Of Joe > Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 4:19 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 > > > Yes, this is WAY "OT" but this is something of an > emergency so please allow > this intrusion. > Because they lost most of it I find myself needing to fax > almost my entire > medical record to the Veteran's Administration. I got several > estimates from > "Kinko's" and other such places, the lowest of which was about $80. If I > went the Kinko's route I would be out $80 but if I kicked in a few extra > bucks and got a cheap flatbed scanner I could do my own faxing > plus I would > be covered in the all-too-likely event they lose it again (I already have > the fax modem and other stuff). > I did not think there would be all that much to buying a > flatbed scanner > but a trip to Best Buy, CompUSA and a few other stores showed me > different. > I need some objective advice. Several tries on the search engine yielded > nothing but ads who's only advice was "buy me now!". It occurred > to me that > most of the folks on the Vanagon list were fairly level headed and > practical. I also remembered several occasions where a number of list > members talked about digitizing one thing or another for posting or > emailing. This, plus the fact that it is Friday convinced me that this > fishing expeditiion might be worth a shot. I figure the worst that could > happen is someonw would have a good time chewing me out for no Vanagon > content. So..... > > Can someone here recommend a good Flatbed Scanner for > about $100? Any > warnings of models to keep away from? Any help appreciated. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 09:52:48 -0700 Reply-To: Blake Thornton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Blake Thornton Subject: AFM wierdness MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I have an 84 Westy and I took my AFM meter apart yesterday in the hopes of stopping the problem I've been having. What's been happening is that I lose all power suddenly, and almost as suddenly (sometimes) I get back the power. The van doesn't die, but it does absolutely nothing when I move the throttle. So, I took looked at all the wires (and they looked ok) and then took out the AFM and tested it per Bentley. I also have another AFM (new AFM from here on out) thats been sitting around for a couple years that I compared to my old one. In the resistance test, Bentley says to expect between 500-1000 ohms. Old AFM was at about 550 and new AFM was at about 750. In the other test, you just hook up the ohm meter and move the wiper. The numbers seemed different as well. And, it also seemed for both AFM's, the resistance was not strictly increasing or decreasing. The ohms bounced around going up sometime and going down sometimes. it was wierd. I also took the lid off the old AFM and everything looked fine inside. There was not a lot of carbon build up. I haven't taken apart an AFM before so I can't say if it was super clean, but it looked ok. I was a bit upset that I hadn't found the problem there. So, I put the new AFM in my van and left the old AFM on a shelf. When putting it in my van, I tried an experiment. I tried running the van without the AFM connected electronically. The van ran a bit rough but it responded to the throttle. I thought this was odd as I had expected the van to not run at all without being hooked up to the AFM. I suppose the ECU adjusted the fuel mix according the O2 sensor? In any case, I decided that this showed that my problem is probably not an electrical connection between AFM and ecu (because when it happens to me, I get no response from the throttle). Any comments or thoughts? thanks, blake 84 Westy SLC UT ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:01:36 -0500 Reply-To: "James S. Cohen" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "James S. Cohen" Subject: South African parts For Sale..... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="============_-1207315595==_ma============" --============_-1207315595==_ma============ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Hi Everyone, I have a bunch of SA Vanagon parts for sale. Which I smug....er... IMPORTED from SA. Except where noted, everything is SAVW OEM and works on US Vanagons. Everything listed is in Stock, but my quantities are limited, and getting this stuff to the USA was SUCH a hassle that I'm not sure when I'm going to want to put myself through it again. However, if I get a lot of interest, I would. Prices DO NOT include shipping which would be JUST the straight UPS or USPS (your choice) charges. Leather Steering wheel..........................$295 Really cool looking padded leather. Makes you feel like you're driving a Porshce....(well, not quite I guess!). Two thick spokes angle down in an inverted "V". Comes with horn button. Needs no mods to fit. About same diameter as US power steering wheel 16.75" but is .75" smaller than US NON PS wheels. (I don't think it really would make much difference). Comes in Black only. Extreme Heavy Duty Mud Flaps (set of 4)...........$195 OEM on new SA Vanagons these are super heavy duty. Not like the flimsy "clip on" flaps VW sells here for $360+ a set. Includes mounting hardware. (drilling some screw holes is necessary). Manifold and Exhaust Pipe For Engine conversion........$395 These parts are for a Golf to Vanagon conversion. Brings the exhaust around to the back of the engine so the US Cat and muffler can be used. Makes the exhaust system part of the conversion easy. OEM VWSA. SA Quad Grille Replacement Lights...............$75 (pair $135) Replacements for broken INNER lights or for grilles that didn't come with the OEM lights. Includes mounting "bucket". These are made by Hella and are Driving beams (not Fog lights). Left or Right is available. OEM VWSA (does not include grille ;) ) Hella Relays...........................................$15 Hard to get HIGH Quality relays and brackets made by Hella for the USA. FAR better and longer lasting than the crappy, cheap Radio Shack and Wal-Mart relays! Recommended by Hella (and by me and others on the Vanagon list) to gain more light output from your auxiliary lights AND/OR your Regular headlights. The best and cheapest way to increase you headlight brightness. A MUST for high watt bulbs. Will make STOCK lights seem like they DOUBLED in brightness and whiteness. Emblems for SA Quad Grille............................$20 These are replacements for the original emblem and are NOT OEM SAVW. But are made by VW for the US. They are the same but just missing a very thin black plastic border. (OEM costs $39) Hi-Level (3rd) Brake Light.............................$75 VWSA accessory light. Fits at the top of the hatch window. Microbus Emblems.......................................$29 Chrome Plastic emblems with the word "Microbus". Similar in size and shape to the "Vanagon" emblem on the rear of the US Vanagons. OEM SA Caravelle Emblems................................................$35 Similar to above. (Caravelle is the Deluxe version of the Microbus (vanagon) over in SA) I also have some other misc. goodies (like VWSA OEM wiring harnesses for the headlights, non-Vanagon emblems, etc) and some other stuff that I'm not sure how to price nor know if there is interest. So if you're interested in exotic VW stuff contact me.(Also, if you have any special interests in items from SA) Payment can be made by money order, certified check, or PayPal. You can contact me for further info by email. It would be a good idea to CC your inquires to my other address as well: jscohen@aol.com Or by phone at 212-787-5813 Thanks for you interest! James -- James Cohen (certifiable VW addict) New York, NY 212-787-5813 Email: jscohen@sprynet.com Alt: jscohen@aol.com (checked more often) --============_-1207315595==_ma============ Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" South African parts For Sale.....
Hi Everyone,


I have a bunch of SA Vanagon parts for sale. Which I smug....er... IMPORTED from SA. Except where noted, everything is SAVW OEM and works on US Vanagons.

Everything listed is in Stock, but my quantities are limited, and getting this stuff to the USA was SUCH a hassle that I'm not sure when I'm going to want to put myself through it again. However, if I get a lot of interest, I would.

Prices DO NOT include shipping which would be JUST the straight UPS or USPS (your choice) charges.


Leather Steering wheel..........................$295
Really cool looking padded leather. Makes you feel like you're driving a Porshce....(well, not quite I guess!). Two thick spokes angle down in an inverted "V".  Comes with horn button. Needs no mods to fit. About same diameter as US power steering wheel 16.75" but is .75" smaller than US NON PS wheels. (I don't think it really would make much difference). Comes in Black only.

Extreme Heavy Duty Mud Flaps (set of 4)...........$195
OEM on new SA Vanagons these are super heavy duty. Not like the flimsy "clip on" flaps VW sells here for $360+ a set. Includes mounting hardware. (drilling some screw holes is necessary).


Manifold and Exhaust Pipe For Engine conversion........$395
These parts are for a Golf to Vanagon conversion. Brings the exhaust around  to the back of the engine so the US Cat and muffler can be used. Makes the exhaust system part of the conversion easy. OEM VWSA.

SA Quad Grille Replacement Lights...............$75 (pair $135)
Replacements for broken INNER lights or for grilles that didn't come with the OEM lights. Includes mounting "bucket". These are made by Hella and are Driving beams (not Fog lights). Left or Right is available. OEM VWSA (does not include grille ;)   )

Hella Relays...........................................$15
Hard to get HIGH Quality relays and brackets made by Hella for the USA. FAR better and longer lasting than the crappy, cheap Radio Shack and Wal-Mart relays!
Recommended by Hella (and by me and others on the Vanagon list) to gain more light output from your auxiliary lights AND/OR your Regular headlights. The best and cheapest way to increase you headlight brightness. A MUST for high watt bulbs. Will make STOCK lights seem like they DOUBLED in brightness and whiteness.


Emblems for SA Quad Grille............................$20
These are replacements for the original emblem and are NOT OEM SAVW. But are made by VW for the US. They are the same but just missing a very thin black plastic border. (OEM costs $39)

Hi-Level (3rd) Brake Light.............................$75
VWSA accessory light. Fits at the top of the hatch window.

Microbus Emblems.......................................$29
Chrome Plastic emblems with the word "Microbus". Similar in size and shape to the "Vanagon" emblem on the rear of the US Vanagons. OEM SA

Caravelle Emblems................................................$35
Similar to above. (Caravelle is the Deluxe version of the Microbus (vanagon) over in SA)


I also have some other misc. goodies (like VWSA OEM wiring harnesses for the headlights, non-Vanagon emblems, etc) and some other stuff that I'm not sure how to price nor know if there is interest. So if you're interested in exotic VW stuff contact me.(Also, if you have any special interests in items from SA)

Payment can be made by money order, certified check, or PayPal.

You can contact me for further info by email. It would be a good idea to CC your inquires to my other address as well:

jscohen@aol.com

Or by phone at 212-787-5813

Thanks for you interest!

James



--
James Cohen (certifiable VW addict)
New York, NY
212-787-5813
Email: jscohen@sprynet.com
Alt: jscohen@aol.com (checked more often)
--============_-1207315595==_ma============-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:14:56 EST Reply-To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Lashley Subject: Re: South African parts For Sale..... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/3/01 11:03:03 AM, jscohen@SPRYNET.COM writes: << Caravelle Emblems................................................$35 Similar to above. (Caravelle is the Deluxe version of the Microbus (vanagon) over in SA) >> I have Vanagon Caravelle badges for $17.50 plus postage. p-mail if interested. Steve Lashley SKL Enterprises Inc. http://EuroCampers.com 636-797-9015 636-789-2127 fax ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:39:57 -0500 Reply-To: Judy Pearce Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Judy Pearce Subject: Re: South African parts For Sale..... Comments: To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <76.1248b800.29158010@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" please explain to this novice: south african parts bay window thanks... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:55:42 EST Reply-To: FrankGRUN@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Grunthaner Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc Comments: To: mdlind@rica.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/2/01 3:17:02 PM, mdlind@rica.net writes: << Frank, I enjoy but barely understand your posts. Myron, its a real problem. I often don't understand them myself! I like to lay the fine points of causation on my monodigit typing limitation. Family (particularly my 85 wpm 13 year old daughter) are talking about sending me to summer typing camp. She just gave me a PAWS Typing Tutor program for my birthday. Also closes the door to the study when I'm in here and she has friends visiting. Too embarrassing! If one was to put a TDI (150ft/lbs or so @ 1900 rpm) into the vanagon, how does one, in your opinion, go about determining proper gearing of the transmission. I am mainly interested in a nice drivable, fuel efficient, Vanagon. The regular WB motors have generally been "peppy" enough for me, I am not after particularly fast acceleration or racing from stoplight to stoplight. What do I miss in overall drivability as I consider mainly 65-70mph road speed. I seems that to match the TDI motor to the vanagon and to still go upwards of 70 mph I should consider a five speed. Why is the diesel less tolerant of high revving than the similar built gasoline engines? Or, why would I want to drive it over 3500-4000 rpm where both the torque and the hp drop rapidly? >> As far as I'm concerned this engine is the unit of choice, but has been too pricey for me to consider. Back when I did the first conversion, I was being quoted $6,000 for the complete motor/computer package. I went out and put some money in Platinum shares - then the cold fusion bubble burst and I went back to sorting out the most cost effective gas engine. I would also agree that the TDi should not be squandered on the 5.86 ring and pinion of the regular N/A 1.6 diesel. Ideal case for a European or SA 5 speed. If I were to do it, I'd probably go for a Porsche 915 trans and have top gear setup for 70 mph at 3000 rpm. Of course, if you are in about $3,000 for the TDi you will probably match that amount for the trans, rebuild of trans and adapter hardware. But in fact there is so much torque available with the TDi, the regular 4 speed transmissions will do just fine. The problem is the strength of the Vanagon transmission. As I have often said, the weak link in this vehicle is just forward of the flywheel! Now the Vanagon 4-spd transmissions have the same 1st through 3rd gearsets (defining 1.26 to be equal to 1.23 for this exercise). Variation is then in the top gear ratio and the ring and pinion. The aftermarket gear sets are stronger than the factory stuff, and the R&P can be beefed in a rebuild (4 spiders vs. 2). I would get a 4.57 or 4.83 trans, depending of what year you are starting with, add a set of 215/75x15 tires (with appropriate rims) and choose a 0.85 or 0.77 gear set for top. To minimize expense, take the stock 0.85. This will give you around 3500 rpm at 70 mph., and a useful mountain gear in 3rd. But the question remains, can the mainshaft and the 3/4 hub hold up to this. Sullivan either knows or will know at least an anecdotal answer (single data point). As to why the torque curves go to hell after 4000 on most automotive diesels, I have always assumed that it was a fuel delivery problem. As the injector transfer pressure go up, and injectors go electrical, and injection is directly into the chamber, the torque curves keep going upward to higher values. In addition, the exhaust circuits in most turbo diesels and flow characteristics of the turbos are designed foe 1200 to 4400 rpm operation. Variable vane technology would enhance this range. So its just money! Frank Grunthaner ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:54:47 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 Comments: To: Joe , John Rodgers In-Reply-To: <3BE4029D.47C258C3@charter.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 09:43 AM 11/3/2001, John Rodgers wrote: >interface UMAX Astra scanner for $79. You can probably bet a USB interface >unit for the >same money nowadays. USB ports are so much easier to deal with than parallel ports (for scanners) that I expect parallel-port units to go off the market before long. SCSI is still best for high-speed work but cheap scanners don't scan all that fast. I would anticipate some possible problem with simultaneously accessing a USB Zip drive and a USB scanner because they each use a big chunk of the available bandwidth, but using them separately should be no problem. Rules of thumb for scanner specs -- look at the optical resolution only, the "interpolated resolution" numbers are worthless. One of the things that money buys is scanning speed. If you're scanning lots of unbound documents, consider a sheet-fed scanner that sucks the page through a slot -- they're much more convenient than loading a flatbed scanner with page after page. Unfortunately there probably aren't any under $100 -- Visioneer makes one that lists at $200. Or try for a flatbed with a document feeder. > But for >faxing purposes, if you scan at 150 dpi the records should be fine. Standard faxes have a resolution of 203x98 for normal mode, 203x196 for fine mode. I'd recommend scanning at 200 dpi for this purpose. There is some good info at http://www.scantips.com/basics05.html which I heartily recommend. That's the page on scanning for fax; the home page is http://www.scantips.com/ -- good discussion of many aspects of scanning. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 13:14:43 -0500 Reply-To: Timothy Hannink Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Timothy Hannink Subject: Trip to Atlanta Report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Overall it was a very uneventful drive to/from Atlanta. Thanks to all for the kind offers of support. It was 935 miles roundtrip, averaging 70 mph, 20 mpg, using 1/4 quart of oil. Gas prices -lowest - paid $.95 at a Super Kmart in Valdosta, GA, Highest - paid $1.09 at a Mobil in Winter Park 2 vehicle problems, both caused by owner :<) OXS light came on - forgot to reset it when I changed the O2 sensor last year Forgot gas cap in Forsyth, GA on Wednesday evening. It was still on top of the pump when I stopped there on Friday afternoon. Sightings - No Busses or Vanagons, one Eurovan Camper, two Rialtas Hope to see all of you at Florida Bug Jam on the 11th. www.floridabugjam.com Tim Hannink Goldibox - 1987 Westfalia Camper, Wolfsburg Edition Winter Park, Florida http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 13:17:48 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Blowing Voltage Regulator For Guages Comments: To: Vanagony@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <8d.ed11b3d.29155782@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Paul, there's a tech bulletin somewhere that says when replacing the regulator on early Vgons to put a diode in series with one of the legs. Maybe you'll find it before I do... david At 09:21 AM 11/3/2001, Paul Kirsch wrote: >A friend's 83 water cooled Vanagon has trouble with the dash guage voltage >regulator. Intermittantly when starting, the regulator blows and guages are >thus dead. Grounds have been checked and cleaned. An additional ground has >been installed from the starter to the body. He is considering putting a >ground wire from the starter to the battery. Any ideas? > > >Paul Kirsch David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:27:17 -0800 Reply-To: pensioner Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: pensioner Subject: Re: Scanner MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Scanner? Cat Scanner? Buttered Cat Scanner? Did Schroedinger wave at Vanagons? Seriously Joe, hoof it on down to the local copy spot. Make the copies on paper. Mail em off to VA. Cheap. I'll sell you a scanjet 3P B/W scanner for 5$ you pay shipping. Works fine. pensioner ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:13:50 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 Comments: To: Joe In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Got a u max Astra 2100U for $30 or so at Fry's [west coast retailer]. I work hell out of it. About 5 gigs worth of photos so far and it's done well by me. Mike > From: Joe > Reply-To: Joe > Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 04:19:12 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Good Flatbed Scanner for about $100 > > Yes, this is WAY "OT" but this is something of an emergency so please allow > this intrusion. > Because they lost most of it I find myself needing to fax almost my entire > medical record to the Veteran's Administration. I got several estimates from > "Kinko's" and other such places, the lowest of which was about $80. If I > went the Kinko's route I would be out $80 but if I kicked in a few extra > bucks and got a cheap flatbed scanner I could do my own faxing plus I would > be covered in the all-too-likely event they lose it again (I already have > the fax modem and other stuff). > I did not think there would be all that much to buying a flatbed scanner > but a trip to Best Buy, CompUSA and a few other stores showed me different. > I need some objective advice. Several tries on the search engine yielded > nothing but ads who's only advice was "buy me now!". It occurred to me that > most of the folks on the Vanagon list were fairly level headed and > practical. I also remembered several occasions where a number of list > members talked about digitizing one thing or another for posting or > emailing. This, plus the fact that it is Friday convinced me that this > fishing expeditiion might be worth a shot. I figure the worst that could > happen is someonw would have a good time chewing me out for no Vanagon > content. So..... > > Can someone here recommend a good Flatbed Scanner for about $100? Any > warnings of models to keep away from? Any help appreciated. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:18:02 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: Galoobs@aol.com In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MS_Mac_OE_3087631082_3482257_MIME_Part" > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3087631082_3482257_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro level. If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT. Be afraid, be very afraid. Mike From: Mike Galoob Reply-To: Galoobs@AOL.COM Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 08:01:55 EST To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Schrodinger's Cat is a paradox not because he expects you to believe that a cat can be in a state of being both alive and dead (or neither) but rather that the laws of Quantum mechanics (which he devised!) seem to be unable to transcend some boundary between the microscopic and the macroscopic scale. Why doesn't the superposition state of the decaying atom carry over to the billions of wave states that combine to form the cat? One answer is a concept known as decoherance. It basically employs the notion that wave functions have a phase just as an electromagnetic wave such as light has phase. Only light waves of similar phase can display interference, evidence of a superposition state. Due to the multitude of wavestates in the cat, they statistically cannot be in phase to the extent as to be able to merge wave functions in the manner of superposition. Thus "spooky" Quantum effects observed on the atomic scale cannot carry over to the multiphase macroscopic systems of our scale. Mike Galoob 81 westy 88 Subaru GL-10 --MS_Mac_OE_3087631082_3482257_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro level.

If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT.

Be afraid, be very afraid.

Mike

From: Mike Galoob <Galoobs@AOL.COM>
Reply-To: Galoobs@AOL.COM
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 08:01:55 EST
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited


Schrodinger's Cat is a paradox not because he ex= pects you to believe that a cat can be in a state of being both alive and de= ad (or neither) but rather that the laws of Quantum mechanics (which he devi= sed!) seem to be unable to transcend some boundary between the microscopic a= nd the macroscopic scale. Why doesn't the superposition state of the decayin= g atom carry over to the billions of wave states that combine to form the ca= t? One answer is a concept known as decoherance. It basically employs the no= tion that wave functions have a phase just as an electromagnetic wave such a= s light has phase. Only light waves of similar phase can display interferenc= e, evidence of a superposition state. Due to the multitude of wavestates in = the cat, they statistically cannot be in phase to the extent as to be able t= o merge wave functions in the manner of superposition. Thus "spooky&quo= t; Quantum effects observed on the atomic scale cannot carry over to the mul= tiphase macroscopic systems of our scale.

Mike Galoob
81 westy
88 Subaru GL-10  

--MS_Mac_OE_3087631082_3482257_MIME_Part-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:25:37 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: mike miller In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Uhm, Mike, what about yourself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. > I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro level. > > If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT. > > Be afraid, be very afraid. > > Mike > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:32:53 EST Reply-To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Lashley Subject: Re: Scanner MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you really want to buy a scanner, buy a good one. I recommend an HP model. It should cost you around $200. I've tried the cheap scanners ($79) and they don't hold up. By the time you buy and install it and get the software setup and the scanner set for the correct resolution and then print out all of your pages, the $80 copy fees will seem cheap. You could also go to Office Depot or Office Max and use the self service copy machines. (pretty cheap) Steve Lashley SKL Enterprises Inc. http://EuroCampers.com 636-797-9015 636-789-2127 fax ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 12:46:13 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: Matthew Pollard In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit me? i'm normal. perfectly normal. absolutely totally normal. really. honest. normal. normal normal normal normal normal 'cept for the van, of course. > From: Matthew Pollard > Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:25:37 -0800 (PST) > To: mike miller > Cc: > Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited > > Uhm, Mike, what about yourself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. > >> I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro level. >> >> If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT. >> >> Be afraid, be very afraid. >> >> Mike >> > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:08:48 -0700 Reply-To: Bob Stevens Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob Stevens Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: mike miller MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16471.0F11EE80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16471.0F11EE80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ....you're all so weird that I'm beginning to feel normal....whatta = stretch! Bob=20 Original Message -----=20 From: mike miller=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 1:46 PM Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited me? i'm normal. perfectly normal. absolutely totally normal. = really. honest. normal. normal normal normal normal normal 'cept for the van, of course. > From: Matthew Pollard > Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:25:37 -0800 (PST) > To: mike miller > Cc: > Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited > > Uhm, Mike, what about yourself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. > >> I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro = level. >> >> If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT. >> >> Be afraid, be very afraid. >> >> Mike >> > ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16471.0F11EE80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
....you're all so weird that I'm beginning to feel=20 normal....whatta stretch!
Bob
Original Message -----
From:=20 mike = miller=20
Sent: Saturday, November 03, = 2001 1:46=20 PM
Subject: Re: The cat debacle or = Schrodinger's Cat revisited

me?  i'm normal.  perfectly normal.  = absolutely=20 totally normal.  really.
honest.  normal.

normal = normal=20 normal normal normal

'cept for the van, of = course.


>=20 From: Matthew Pollard <poll7356@uidaho.edu>
> = Date:=20 Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:25:37 -0800 (PST)
> To: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
> = Cc: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM&g= t;
>=20 Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat = revisited
>
>=20 Uhm, Mike, what about yourself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
>
>> I = think=20 there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro=20 level.
>>
>> If you don't I'll introduce you to = Pensioner,=20 Karl W, and BenT.
>>
>> Be afraid, be very=20 afraid.
>>
>>=20 Mike
>>
>
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16471.0F11EE80-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 16:30:24 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Frustration in Brake Land Comments: To: sbsyncro@hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_137.404b563.2915bbf0_boundary" --part1_137.404b563.2915bbf0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for all of the advice on the brakes. The concensus was the rear brakes. I checked them again only to find that my helper had installed the adjusters wrong :( He is kinda new, so I can't be too mad. I installed them properly and adjusted them up and now everything is great. Thanks for all the help and advice. Usually the things that frustrate us most are the simple things. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_137.404b563.2915bbf0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for all of the advice on the brakes.  The concensus was the rear brakes.  I checked them again only to find that my helper had installed the adjusters wrong :(  He is kinda new, so I can't be too mad.  I installed them properly and adjusted them up and now everything is great.  Thanks for all the help and advice.  Usually the things that frustrate us most are the simple things.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
--part1_137.404b563.2915bbf0_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:44:04 -0700 Reply-To: "Neal R. Hansen" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Neal R. Hansen" Subject: Frozen tranny plug follow-up MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yeah! Today I finally got that stubborn plug out. I used a new (Sharp) 17MM hex wrench with a two foot pipe. It broke loose, and all is well in the world. At least mine. Thanks to all those list members who offered suggestions. It was really appreciated. Neal ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:09:04 -0800 Reply-To: Tim Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tim Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: Matthew Pollard MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Actually I thought Pensioner was Mike's alias? > Uhm, Mike, what about yourself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. > > > I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro level. > > > > If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT. > > > > Be afraid, be very afraid. > > > > Mike > > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:21:58 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: Tim In-Reply-To: <000a01c164b4$26892ea0$5562e9d1@pacbell.net> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Nope pensioner is much to young to be me. To rich too. > From: Tim > Reply-To: Tim > Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:09:04 -0800 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited > > Actually I thought Pensioner was Mike's alias? > > >> Uhm, Mike, what about yourself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. >> >>> I think there are lots of spooky things observable at the macro level. >>> >>> If you don't I'll introduce you to Pensioner, Karl W, and BenT. >>> >>> Be afraid, be very afraid. >>> >>> Mike >>> >> > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:33:09 -0500 Reply-To: Rob Le Duc Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rob Le Duc Subject: looking for mike devlin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1648D.9B351C40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1648D.9B351C40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable looking for mike devlin ... from new canaan ct. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1648D.9B351C40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
looking for mike devlin ... from new = canaan=20 ct.
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C1648D.9B351C40-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:33:36 -0500 Reply-To: "Karl M." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Karl M." Subject: Re: Stuck in MD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All, Teresa is now on her way back to her home via Greyhound. :-( The day's work had no lasting effect on her Vanagon, after ruling out all other issues and bleeding the cooling system several times, the problem appears to be a warped or cracked cylinder head, not coolant pump as we had decided via phone diagnosis, as there is exhaust gas present in the coolant after a highway run (causing it to boil over). The PO had just replaced all hoses, coolant pump, etc., so most likely the van had already shown symptoms of the worsening problem it has now. As I'm in the hurried midst of packing up my belongings to be ready for settlement Friday, I just couldn't afford any more teardown time today, so Teresa decided to leave the van parked at my shop and return home, and to think about what to do with the van, whether it be new engine, new head, or what. I'm sure she'll be here asking for advice when Greyhound deposits her back in Peoria. I did what I could, oh well! Karl Mullendore Westy Ventures 1987 Syncro Westfalia 1.9TD ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:50:47 -0800 Reply-To: Maximiliano Goldschwartz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maximiliano Goldschwartz Subject: thefts, security MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Anybody has experience on how to increase the vanagon's security? I mean make it harder for someone to break in and steal the huge amount of stuff that's in the cabinets. Extra locks? Alarms? Explosive handles? Dangerous animals inside? :) max ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:54:30 -0500 Reply-To: Greg Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Greg Marshall Subject: high idle problem MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello folks, First of all, thanks to all who offered tips on replacing my valve gasket covers. The process went smoothly and I no longer have oil leaking out onto my heater boxes, and consequently, my van doesn't smell like burning oil when I'm driving anymore. Anyhow, the latest problem is a rather high idle when I stop at lights, stop signs and so on. This problem just started a couple weeks ago. The van is an 82 aircooled california model van. Recently, I changed the exhaust system over from the rotted out california setup to a setup with federal (49 state) heater boxes and a bugpack header system. With this system, I removed the O2 sensor and the Cat, because I just couldn't work them into the new setup. The van is running very well, has lots of power, and my mileage has only dropped a bit, about 19 mpg city. I have recently cleaned up all the grounds, fixed the vacum leaks, and replaced a few other corroded connection in the engine bay. One other thing to add is that the van has no Idle stabalizer like the bentley says it should. It doesn't even have The two black plugs for the idle stabalizer. However, there is a screw hole beside the hall sender unit where I think the idle stabalizer used to be. It appears that the previous owner has removed the idle stabalizer, and plugs, and connected the wires directly. I can see some wires with modern looking connectors attaching them together over near the hall sender. I'm new to being an aircooled mechanic, but I'm learning fast, and I'm hoping I can figure out this idle problem on my own. Any suggestions of what to check, or if i should do anything about the lack of 02 sensor and idle stabalizer? Will putting these back in somehow make the van run better? Thanks a bunch. This list is the best. Greg. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 11:59:55 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc In-Reply-To: <003401c16485$d3e65480$0f4fded8@default> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Hi Andrew. About the only diesels here in the US are the VW. In >the large pickup trucks is the next series, a bit larger than I >want for a vanagon. 7.0 Liter or so. How do I find a G50 in >Germany? Shame... virtually every Japanese vehicle, apart fromcoupes, sporties, Hondas and Subarus (and Toyota Celsior=Lexus LS series) is available as a diesel (NOT a good thing if it's not a Toyota!). Most of these are brought in as used imports from Japan, which by far outsell new cars! G50? Here's what I passed on to another inquirer: Marty Schneider (MSDS) or makes an installation kit for the G50 trans, which he normally sells only as part of his complete 911-conversion kit. He did say he'd sell me a trans-only part, but then every time I tried to actually order one, he put me off: "Not enough stock just now. I have to consider my full-kit customers first; try again in a few months". His kit includes a CNC-milled mounting block adaptor to fit the 911 shifter into the VW floor; rod adaptors etc, and front trans mount. His prices are frightening, but for the alternative of getting it done from scratch you may pay just as much, and the cobbled-together item may not work well at all. I intend to fit Porsche 993 ventilated drilled brakes at both ends, using Hansen Motorsport (Germany) kit. This will require 17" wheels, in place of the near-new Mercedes CLK 16" alloys with 205/55/16 Continentals I brought in from the States recently... know anyone who wants CLK wheels?? (NOT cheap, but I'm not asking the $4000 they're worth). My used trans came from Sportswagenservice Jacobi, a small Porsche wrecker in Hamminkeln, in the NW corner of Germany, near Dutch border. It was a lot of dicking around; unbelievably, it took over a year to get organized. I am just hoping the thing actually arrives! Contact Martin Jacubowski (his boss Peter Jacobi prefers to leave sales to Martin) at , or at home . Tell him I sent you. Breakdown of my parts: 1989 G50 LSD short-bellhousing trans with slave cylinder & release arm complete, price DM2700 G50 starter DM280 G50 clutch, good used DM1100 G50 gearshift complete system DM450 steel Vanagon engine lid DM100 Konis new set DM750 Handling DM150 (shipping to NZ not included) VAT 16%, refundable on arrival; return shipping documents to Jacobi (odd, but it appears this is how it works buying from Germany). Jacobi does not take creditcards; they want telegraphic transfer. They sent master cylinder instead of slave... Call your bank for latest exchange rates. Another option is Van Zweeden in Holland; contact Melanie at . Trans price similar to Jacobi's, but didn't have the other bits at the time, or just didn't reply. And I bet they woldn't send an LSD unit at that price! Re CV joints & rear axles: MSDS' kit includes Sway-A-Way adaptor axles and Weddle 28-tooth 930-pattern stubaxles. Or buy axles & stubs direct from Weddle; prices start at $549US, depending on axle length etc. Contact Chris Weddle at . Specify Vanagon axles, or you'll get Bug units! G50 PARTS -trans, 1978-1989 -slave cylinder -release mechanism -clutch -gearshift mechanism complete -starter optional (ask KEP) NEW 911 PARTS -4 x 930 CV joints complete KEP -flywheel -adaptor plate (X - VW/Porsche) MSDS -trans-fitting kit OR -Weddle Vanagon/930 stubaxles -Weddle or Sway-A-Way 28-tooth 930 adaptor axles -manufacture front trans mount -manufacture shifter adaptor OTHER -fabricate exhaust -fabricate engine crossmember/mounts -engine electrics (I suggest a Link computer) -convert tacho to read six-cylinder if fitting a six -connect alternator, power steering, aircon HAVE I FORGOTTEN ANYTHING? Here assuming no catalytic converter or other smog gear needed; mine will have none. Get it all done nicely and you'll have the best van in the world... apart from a hotted-up Toyota Hiace Super Custom! Regards Andrew ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 11:59:55 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: South African parts For Sale..... Comments: To: Judy Pearce In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >please explain to this novice: > south african parts > bay window > >thanks... VW South Africa manufactures various models. The Type 25, or Type 2 T3 Transporter ("Vanagon" in USA), is still made there. The Caravelle version is the top-of-the-line one, with rectangular headlights. The Microbus version has dual round lights; the inner pair is smaller, much like a Golf GTi, and looks really aggressive; this grill fits all round-light T3s. The lower grill is a full-width 1-piece item without any foglights, and looks much better than the stock German Hitler-mustache unit! Bays were the Type 2 T2 (or Series 2), 1967-1989 and still in production in Mexico & Brasil; these are basically much-modified T1s (Splits), with redesigned cab and curved windshield; early models retained the Split's rear shape and lights; later versions changes this to a more squared-off rear. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 11:59:55 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: engine efficiency, I4s, subies, etc In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >I would also agree that the TDi should not be squandered on the 5.86 ring and >pinion of the regular N/A 1.6 diesel. Ideal case for a European or SA 5 >speed. If I were to do it, I'd probably go for a Porsche 915 trans and have >top gear setup for 70 mph at 3000 rpm. Of course, if you are in about $3,000 >for the TDi you will probably match that amount for the trans, rebuild of >trans and adapter hardware. The Porsche G50 trans is MUCH stronger, and I just got an LSD G50 ex Germany for $1200US, less than the US price for a good 915. >The problem is the strength of the >Vanagon transmission. As I have often said, the weak link in this vehicle is >just forward of the flywheel!.... But the question remains, can the >mainshaft and the 3/4 hub hold up to this. Sullivan either knows or will know >at least an anecdotal answer (single data point). Albins in Australia offers gears (customers' choice of custom ratios) for any rear-engined VW trans; these are wider than stock gears and are the strongest made anywhere; you won't break them. Their mainshaft is also thicker than stock, and won't break either. A full set of gears/mainshaft costs about $1200AUS for a 4-speed van. That's a lot less than $1200US. >As to why the torque curves go to hell after 4000 on most automotive diesels, >I have always assumed that it was a fuel delivery problem. As the injector >transfer pressure go up, and injectors go electrical, and injection is >directly into the chamber, the torque curves keep going upward to higher >values. In addition, the exhaust circuits in most turbo diesels and flow >characteristics of the turbos are designed foe 1200 to 4400 rpm operation. >Variable vane technology would enhance this range. So its just money! Yep. What I want is a direct-injection common-rail DOHC 4-valve TDI with an 8000rpm redline. They'll come... manufacturers are working on these engines, and finally coupes and even sporties (don't make the mistake of confusing the two) will soon be offered with diesel option, eg the Audi TT. How about a diesel 911? (dunno if Porsche is considering dieseling...). I can't see why a high-revving diesel isn't possible, but I doubt the new diesels will be anything like 8000rpm. But they WILL offer AT LEAST as much performance as the gas versions of the same models. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:32:14 -0500 Reply-To: Greg Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Greg Marshall Subject: O2 sensor question. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have an 82 air cooled california vanagon that I've put federal heater boxes on and a header exhaust system. I have removed the O2 sensor, but it has been suggested that my mileage would go up if i reinstalled it. Here's my dilemna. The O2 sensor was originally in the crossover pipe at a point where it was taking a reading from the exhaust out of all four heads mixed together. With my current system, the four headers converge right at the muffler, so there is no way to install the sensor in a place where exhaust from all four cyclinders has merged. The only option for putting the O2 sensor back in the current system, would have the O2 sensor only reading from one of the four header pipes. I assume this means that it would be taking a reading from only one cylinder. Is this a problem? Wouldn't this mean that the ECU would alter the fuel/air mix based on information from only one cylinder? Should I leave the sensor off, or put it back in one of the header pipes? If I put it back, Hwich header pipe should I put it on? Does it matter? Thanks folks. Greg. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 13:43:19 -1000 Reply-To: Andrew M Fox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew M Fox Subject: can vanagon run w/out alternator? MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was able to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to jumpstart the van and was on my way. Thanks, Andrew Fox 86 Westy Ft. Collins CO ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:49:37 -0500 Reply-To: George Averill Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: George Averill Subject: Re: antisieze compound Comments: To: Matthew Pollard MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the reply. Yes, on the oxygen sensor. I was wondering if you meant that the antisieze tended to isolate the ground side of the circuit by insulating the sensor where the threads meet the exhaust pipe. From your reply, I guess this isn't a problem. George (84 Camper) ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew Pollard To: George Averill Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 9:18 PM Subject: Re: antisieze compound > antisieze on what? The oxygen sensor i suppose. There is junk in the > antisiezxe compound that will quickly foul up your oxygen sensor. This is > a well known and documented thing. Well, i need to qualify this- when you > purchase some oxygen sensors, they already come with some antisieze > smudged on them (bosch does for sure). That is OK and should be there. IF > you added some antisieze i'd be weary and careful. > > does this help > m > > Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death > Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" > University of Idaho > www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:19:01 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Caveat Empyor Comments: To: "Karl M." In-Reply-To: <002c01c164b8$2a61d820$133f2e3f@xtechoem> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Oh boy, that is harsh! My sympathies to Teresa. Guess they DID see her coming. Caveat Emptor means what is says, she can sue the seller. Keep us posted. Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com Entity Karl M. spoke thus: > All, > Teresa is now on her way back to her home via Greyhound. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 15:42:01 -0900 Reply-To: Michael Moery Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Moery Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Vanagons, like most all modern vehicles, need electricity to run. When the alternator quits, the engine will run off the battery for quite a while, as long as all the accessories are off, especially the headlights. While it takes just a small current to power the ignition system, the starter is another matter, as you discovered. It takes a lot of amperage to start. Diesels, on the other hand need only enough power to energize the fuel solenoid, so they can run without an alternator for a very long time. Same problem with starting though. Mike Moery, Anchorage, AK =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0---------------- =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0||E[__] [__]|[_]\\=20 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0| =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D| - =A0=A0|| =A0=20 * * * =A0=3D( o )--------( o )=3D =3D=3D'Ol Bessie '82TD Westy =20 -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Andrew M Fox Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 2:43 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: can vanagon run w/out alternator? My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was able to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to jumpstart the van and was on my way. Thanks, Andrew Fox 86 Westy Ft. Collins CO ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 20:54:33 -0500 Reply-To: Greg Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Greg Marshall Subject: oil pressure sender thread size. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello folks, To install my oil pressure guage, I need the little hose adapter that allows the sender to be mounted slightly away from the engine. I found one for much cheaper than any of the usual vendors, but I'm unsure if the thread is correct. The seller says it is 1/8 npt on each end. Is this right? Is this the same thread as the hole it needs to go into in the engine and the vdo sender? Thanks again folks, you're all so helpful. Greg. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:18:44 -0800 Reply-To: Tony Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tony Subject: Re: tyres Comments: To: jboldway@INTCON.NET In-Reply-To: <200111020419.fA24Jnb21038@linux.intcon.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks to this list (again) for the great feedback on tires -- i went ahead and ordered (2) Agilis 205/70/14's for my passenger vanagon....$130 mount/balanced, tax....i've heard the thread about Michelin no longer importing them etec...so far they are in stock in August and again now in November..so cool looks like they're gonna be around..anyone know any truth to the rumour that M isn't bringing/making them anymore? Tony --- "James T." wrote: > Due to stupidity (mine), I am able to give a tyre > report. Missed seeing one of > those 6'x8"x8" parking "curbs" in the parking lot of > the local store. Square > corner of parking curb slid up sidewall of tyre and > put a nice dent in one of > the rim halves. So, I have a pair of Agelis 61s on > order. My 85 Westy had > Agelis 61s in the rear and MTX or whatever the older > popular michelin was. Had > a pair of Veredestein transport studded snows that I > picked up mounted on > vanagon rims in Seattle for a foolishly low price - > like new, 1800 LB at 50psi > 185 R14Cs. Put the Ageliss up front and the > vredesteins in the back - will > reinstall new agelis in rear when the arrive and > will go back to studdeds in > like January. > Notes on new tyre combo (with KBY shocks new last > year). I really like the > vredesteins. super stiff sidewall - no rear > fishtailing at all. A little more > vertical "bump" when going over speed bumps, but > otherwise great. Agelis in > front versus older michelisn - older michelins were > more forgiving in all > directions. Agelis seems to let me know I've got a > part or two loose in my > steering gear. But, at the same time, the agelis > seem to turn easier and track > just as well. So, the main things I've noticed after > purchasing the van - > replacing the original Sachs shocks with KBY made > the best improvement, > replacing the michelin MTX rear tyres with Agelis > 61s made the next biggest > improvement as the rear end used to fishtail with > the old MTXs. I keep front at > 48 PSI and rear at 50 PSI. Old Michelin MTX had tons > of tread left, but when i > purchased teh van I had numerous sidewall cracks > near the rim. Not sure if > underinflation or just old age. Was a little scared, > that's why I replaced the > rear michelins. Noticed that the MTXs were made in > France while the Agelis 61s > are made in Italy. Note on Agelis 61s - if you try > to order these through the > computer systems in stores like NTB, Parts Depot, > tire express, etc. you will > get "out of stock." You need to have the salesman > physically call the warehouse > or michelin - and he will be told "these tires are > for emergency release only > for Westy vanagons - no other uses are permitted." > Worries me - sounds like > stock is getting low. > Was told there was a vanagon westy in a salvage yard > near me. I'm going to > check out the tyres and pick up a pair if I can get > them cheap. Sounds like > time to stock up. > Anybody need any funky vanagon/westy parts? Not sure > what year westy in > junkyard is - I'll check it out on Saturday and > report back. Westy vanagons > aren't worth much here in > Kansas. > > --------------------------------------------- > This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. > http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:30:19 -0800 Reply-To: Rennie Wible Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rennie Wible Subject: Re: Best Way To Get Factory Parts From The Dealer Comments: To: Derek Drew MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks Derek. If you need to contact me directly, I can be reached at Peyton Cramer Volkswagen 20460 Hawthorne Blvd Torrance CA 90503 (310) 370-9999 x 253 Fax 793-7967 Cell 614-2967 I can be reached on my cell anytime, but please not too late! Derek Drew wrote: > > Frank, here is the scoop on where to order your factory parts from > when ordering from Volkswagen directly. > > So far as I know, both Rennie and Camelback are still in the business > and are excellent sources of factory parts. Their prices will be > comparable but I think Rennie may have a slight price advantage. > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:50:07 -0800 Reply-To: kirk swezey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: kirk swezey Subject: Shift Lever Noise Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi all. I have a squeaking metal to metal sound with some of my shifts. I have laid plenty of grease on the ball at the base of the shift lever with no result. Does anyone know where to lube this problem? Kirk '90 Syncro ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 18:59:08 -0800 Reply-To: Brian Cochran Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brian Cochran Subject: Re: thefts, security Comments: To: maxito@PACBELL.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

This is a pretty involved question I could answer it with a number of devious answers.

One that comes to mind is, "Make sure that the VANAGON labels are kept clean and easily readable."  But that only works for those thieves that have owned vanagons in the past or know a friend that owns one.

Seriously, I live in Capital hill-Seattle.  Our apartment was burglarized three weeks ago and pretty much all the major valuables were taken.  We lost over ten grand of important stuff.  The lost computer has been an extreme PITA that I'm still dealing with.  Criminal are predators preying on, most of the time, working class folks that are just trying to get by in this world with a little dignity.  The rich folks who can "afford" to lose from petty thievery usually have pretty fancy security systems leaving themselves sittin' pretty.

Sorry for the rampage, but I've built myself an ANGST pile to burn, since most of my valuable that I lost in the incident were in the vanagon shortly before we left for dinner.  I took them out since I thought the apartment would be safer than the vanagon......wrong!  Here's why:

My van was bought with a VIPER alarm system on it. ( I've seen in for about $100) Any doors or any bumps and that damn siren goes off and it is really, really bad.  Just hearing it makes you want to go find the jacka*s that owns it and beat the cr*p out him.  That true for myself include, however, I'm the owner.  Usually it only goes off when the garbage truck is going by. (vibrations).  Aside from that, If you really own the "kind" equip., put the curtains up.  Thieves don't break into something unless what's there and it's a sure thing for something they can turn into liquid$$ to go buy dope.  Keep your CD's out of view.  I have a stereo with a removable face AND a fake cheap-a*s AM radio face to take its place if I'm in a bad area for parking.

The last suggestion is to get insurance for such a horrible event.  Because we should all keep in mind, that there is NO system that is completely secure!! (that goes for national security as well, even though I tried really hard to keep politics out of this.)

Brian Cochran

84 westy

seattle

From:    Maximiliano Goldschwartz <maxito@PACBELL.NET>
Subject: thefts, security

Anybody has experience on how to increase the vanagon's security?
I mean make it harder for someone to break in and steal the huge amount of
stuff that's in the cabinets.

Extra locks?
Alarms?
Explosive handles?

Dangerous animals inside? :)


max







Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:29:30 -0500 Reply-To: Amy and Andrew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Amy and Andrew Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had a '91 Grand Prix with EFI and it ran for about 30 minutes, after the alternator went, before the voltage got to low (I believe 10 volts) to keep the engine running. I didn't need my headlights or use turn signals, radio, or fan. The Grand Prix had a much smaller battery than my '84 Westy has so I assume my Westy could go much further. Andrew 1984 Westy "Speed Bump" 1996 VW Jetta Trek "Little Beep" (the wife's car) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew M Fox" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 6:43 PM Subject: can vanagon run w/out alternator? > My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the > engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? > I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator > goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough > electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you > can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the > electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before > having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have > one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was able > to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there > was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to > jumpstart the van and was on my way. > > Thanks, > Andrew Fox > 86 Westy > Ft. Collins CO > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:44:38 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Blowing Voltage Regulator For Guages Comments: To: FrankGRUN@aol.com, Paul Kirsch In-Reply-To: <33.1d5ea931.2915a8e1@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 03:09 PM 11/3/2001, FrankGRUN@aol.com wrote: >David, > >I've never seen this. Any more details? The tech bulletin used to be on line somewhere but I can't find it. It's bulletin 908800, Adding diode to circuit after replacing voltage stabilizer -- available at http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V81522~C10043~R0~OD~N/0/41745968/56620833/56620834/56620836/34853741/34850750/42063452/42765948 if you happen to have paid Alldata their $20 or whatever it is. david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:46:30 -0500 Reply-To: Data Services Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Data Services Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Go a couple grand and do it right. Get a late model (real) Vanagon Westy with all the goodies you want to maintain for about 6k. Put a 2001 golf Tiico conversion with the motronic control for another 6k (after all is done), and you'll have the best of both worlds. Dave 83 Tiico Westy 83 WBX Westy 59 SO4 Westy interior ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stan Wilder" To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 7:05 PM Subject: Re: What to buy? Many "buying guide" questions > Bos (San Francisco, CA) .............. Bos Wrote > Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen 93s > and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer Vanagons). Are > there things to watch out for when looking at Eurovans? If you had $10k, > would you rather buy an excellent Vanagon or a good Eurovan? > > Stan Wilder wrote: > Definitely go for the Eurovan type Westfalia conversion.(92 and up) Horse > power is the key and keeping up with traffic can fry an Air-Cooled or > throw a rod in A WaserBoxer. Newer is better. Nostalgia is for parked > cars. After you've done your first few lengthy trips in your 92 or newer > Eurovan you can pick up a splittie as a hobby car. > > That is the way I'd do it with ten grand. > Of course you always have options but you'll want to turn on your Air > Conditioner without loosing 15 mph and that knocks out Air-Cooled. Travel > should be a pleasure.............. Mountains are great places to camp but > you gotta get there first. > > On Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:47:23 -0800 Hans Bos writes: > > Dear list members (and Vanagon experts), > > > > I have searched the archives for answers to these questions, but > > only found topics concerned with the pros and cons of water vs. air. > > So, here goes: > > > > I am thinking of replacing my too-large Toyota motorhome with a > > Westfalia camper (after renting one in Hawaii and being very pleased > > with the size and driveability). In addition to the motorhome I > > currently own an old beetle convertible and I'm thinking of > > replacing the beetle with some kind of Westfalia that I can actually > > park in front of the house and use to get groceries as well as take > > camping for weekends. The eternal question is what to buy? I could > > spend some money on this project (not as much as a new Eurovan), but > > of course I would try to spend as little as possible and still be > > fairly comfortable. I am very flexible (i.e., I don't really know > > what I want). > > > > Here are my questions: > > > > Aesthetically and emotionally, I think I would prefer a Bay Window > > Type II (bus) instead of a Vanagon. What are the advantages of > > getting an aircooled Vanagon instead? (I live in California, so I'm > > assuming I can find a 70s Type II with a decent body.) Are Vanagons > > considerably more comfortable or powerful than Type IIs? > > > > If I did decide to get a Vanagon, how would I go about finding one > > that is technically sound? Do I need to be more careful with the > > aircooled ones or with the water-cooled ones? Are there any shops > > or used VW dealers in the Bay Area that specialize in Vanagons and > > buses? > > > > Is there any reason not to get an older Eurovan instead? (I've seen > > 93s and 94s that are not much more expensive than the newer > > Vanagons). Are there things to watch out for when looking at > > Eurovans? If you had $10k, would you rather buy an excellent > > Vanagon or a good Eurovan? > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > ns Bos (San Francisco, CA) > > > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 21:44:23 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: thefts, security Comments: To: maxito@PACBELL.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had a brick office building, no windows, no sky lights, very heavy front door with burglar bar grill and super strong overhead door. The entire building was inside of a chain link fence. They crashed a stolen truck into the building to get entry. There aren't any secure ways to keep your possessions, if somebody wants them they'll find a way in. I've never had anything stolen from my Westfalia but I'm expecting it to happen at some point in the future. We've had three cars stolen right out of our driveway and a couple of others that the thieves just mutilated buy cutting the seats, dash board and kicking in the radio and instruments when they could not get past our second ignition trip switch. All I can say is don't leave any valuables in sight and carry hundred dollar items into your house or just find a way not to leave/have them in your vehicle. Car alarm systems go off all of the time while I'm at the grocery store parking lot and they are ignored by everybody. The security guards at shopping malls don't chase to see If a vehicle is being burglarized when the alarm goes off, your neighbors don't even get out of their chairs to take a look when your home or car alarm goes off. Stan Wilder 83 Westfalia Air Cooled On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 14:50:47 -0800 Maximiliano Goldschwartz writes: > Anybody has experience on how to increase the vanagon's security? > I mean make it harder for someone to break in and steal the huge > amount of > stuff that's in the cabinets. > > Extra locks? > Alarms? > Explosive handles? > > Dangerous animals inside? :) > > > max > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:58:59 -0500 Reply-To: Dennis Haynes Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dennis Haynes Subject: Re: oil pressure sender thread size. Comments: To: Greg Marshall In-Reply-To: <3BE49FD9.BFF6B3EA@home.com> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT The proper thread is 100mm, 1.0 pitch. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Greg Marshall Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 8:55 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: oil pressure sender thread size. Hello folks, To install my oil pressure guage, I need the little hose adapter that allows the sender to be mounted slightly away from the engine. I found one for much cheaper than any of the usual vendors, but I'm unsure if the thread is correct. The seller says it is 1/8 npt on each end. Is this right? Is this the same thread as the hole it needs to go into in the engine and the vdo sender? Thanks again folks, you're all so helpful. Greg. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:59:47 -0500 Reply-To: Dennis Haynes Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dennis Haynes Subject: Re: oil pressure sender thread size. Comments: To: Greg Marshall In-Reply-To: <3BE49FD9.BFF6B3EA@home.com> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Oops!! That was 10.0 mm. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Greg Marshall Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 8:55 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: oil pressure sender thread size. Hello folks, To install my oil pressure guage, I need the little hose adapter that allows the sender to be mounted slightly away from the engine. I found one for much cheaper than any of the usual vendors, but I'm unsure if the thread is correct. The seller says it is 1/8 npt on each end. Is this right? Is this the same thread as the hole it needs to go into in the engine and the vdo sender? Thanks again folks, you're all so helpful. Greg. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:08:48 EST Reply-To: TStone8359@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom Stone Subject: Re: oil pressure sender thread size. Comments: To: earthboy@home.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_bb.1650e33b.29161950_boundary" --part1_bb.1650e33b.29161950_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not sure of the size but I used the hose for a manual grease gun to mount mine away from the engine and the used nylon zip ties to hold it tight to the pushrod tubes. Tom '71 Westy, '85 Westy, '91 Carat --part1_bb.1650e33b.29161950_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not sure of the size but I used the hose for a manual grease gun to mount mine away from the engine and the used nylon zip ties to hold it tight to the pushrod tubes. 

Tom
'71 Westy, '85 Westy, '91 Carat
--part1_bb.1650e33b.29161950_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:15:53 -0500 Reply-To: Carl Hansen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Carl Hansen Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? Comments: To: Andrew M Fox Comments: cc: SyncroList - post Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 15 miles, then dead. well, not sure how "up" the battery was to start with, but it started normally, so I'm assuming it was OK. Lots of corrosion from sitting for a year with little use, cleaned up the brushes and ?stator? and I may have even replaced the regulator/brushes assembly. YMMV Ch Carl Hansen 609-268-8595 - home 856-866-6387 - work carl_hansen@ieee.org - personal carl.hansen@lmco.com - work In a perfect world without walls or fences........ .....................why would we need Windows or Gates? **** SNIP FROM ORIGINAL **** My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator goes you have a limited amount of ti ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 21:15:35 -0800 Reply-To: Rennie Wible Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rennie Wible Subject: Re: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling Comments: To: Ed Shultz MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > My headlights are falling out (literally) and ETKA shows the following > part #s required: > > Position Part # Description Quan (total for both sides) > 8 255 941 133 adjusting piece 2 $3.18ea > 9 255 941 133 A adjusting piece 2 $3.18ea > 10 255 941 141 C adjusting piece 2 $3.42ea > 11 191 941 297 adapter with adjusting screw 2 $3.42ea > for vertical adjustment > 12 255 941 141 B adjusting screw 4 $3.04ea > Her are the prices of the above items I can supply. This is the listee price, not including shipping or tax (where applicable). Rennie VolksDragon@earthlink.net Los Angeles Peyton Cramer Volkswagen Ed Shultz wrote: > > Frank, > > Please post your results if you find any. Mine are split and crumbling > also. I'm afraid every time I remove the front grill and the light buckets > for something. > > Thanks, > > Ed > > At 08:40 AM 11/02/2001 -0500, fty@CISCO.COM wrote: > >Ah, the joys of old cars .. > > > >Nearly all the platic parts that hold in and adjust the headlights are > >crumbling on my '86. ETKA shows all the part #s (see below). Was wondering > >if there was another source other than the dealer - checked Bus Depot's part > ># lookup and it has none of them. It's also hard to tell if the part # > >refers to the plastic bit *and* the screw, or just the screw. > > > >Anyone else has headlights that are falling out? Better check! > > > >cheers - Frank > > > > >From ETKA: > >Position Part # Description Quan (total for both > >sides) > >8 255 941 133 adjusting piece 2 > >9 255 941 133 A adjusting piece 2 > >10 255 941 141 C adjusting piece 2 > >11 191 941 297 adapter with adjusting screw 2 > > for vertical adjustment > >12 255 941 141 B adjusting screw 4 > > > >9&12 are for the Hi-beam (smaller light) > >8,10,11 for the Lo-beam > > > > > >\\\\////\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\ > >Frank Terhaar-Yonkers W4FTY TRA 8325/L2 > >Cisco Systems, Inc. > >NSITE - Pineview Building - RTP > >7025 Kit Creek Road PO Box 14987 > >Research Triangle Park, North Carolina 27709 > >fty@cisco.com voice(919)392-2101 fx(919)392-6927 > > Ed Shultz, RCDD > Genuity, Inc. > Manager, Network Systems Design > NSD Home Page: http://eng-web.genuity.com/net-eng/ipeng/nsd/ipnsd.htm > V: 781-262-4324, F:781-262-2744, P:1151209@skymail.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 21:28:11 -0800 Reply-To: Rennie Wible Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rennie Wible Subject: Re: Sensor connector sources? Comments: To: Ed Carroll MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ed, I can get some of the wires. However, VW only supplies the connectors already crimped on both ends of a 12" wire. These run anywhere from $2. ea to $10 ea, depending on the connector. VW recommends using heat sealed butt connectors when using these wires. Also, use yellow electrical tape. This makes it stand out for the next person that has to troubleshoot it next time! Rennie VolksDragon@earthlink.net Los Angeles Peyton Cramer VW Ed Carroll wrote: > > Don't I remember seeing on some familiar vendor's website a good > variety of the original connectors needed to repair wiring within the > engine compartment? I thought I saw those somewhere and now can't > find them. > > Reason I ask is that the Temp. II sensor connector (blue, two spade > spring clip at the thermostat housing) comes with enough wire to > reach the hot exhaust pipes when doing timing/troubleshooting with > the engine running. Oy! What a smell! I kind of carved away the burnt > parts and stuck it back together, but it's unreliable. Options are: > A) replace, B) duct tape. > > Any help appreciated. > > On another topic (and yes, I will search the archives as well, now > that they work), has anyone done the wiring harness upgrade, and how > many hours would you estimate? Was it worth it? > > Ed Carroll > 87 Weekender > 69 Karmann Ghia convertible ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 21:33:58 -0800 Reply-To: Robert Crawford Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Crawford Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? Comments: To: Andrew M Fox In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed When my Diesel Vanagon caught fire I just replaced a bunch of fuel hoses, connected a lead to the shut-off solenoid and ran some jumper cables from the starter to the battery. So no, it does not *need* an alternator to run. I will say that it was not running in top form under that condition. At 01:43 PM 11/3/01 -1000, Andrew M Fox wrote: >My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the >engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? >I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator >goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough >electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you >can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the >electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before >having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have >one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was able >to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there >was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to >jumpstart the van and was on my way. > >Thanks, >Andrew Fox >86 Westy >Ft. Collins CO ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:02:30 -0800 Reply-To: Rennie Wible Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rennie Wible Subject: Re: TIICO- Oil Filters - P/N Clarification Comments: To: Gary Stearns MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is starting to get away from the TIICO bit, but. . . First off, does the diesel vanagon run the filter in the same location as the TIICO conversion? I ask because VW supplies the same filter for diesel vanagons and Jetta/Rabbits. Maybe run the diesel filter instead? I used to run these on my old 1835cc engines because they wouldn't pop when the pressure got too high for the type 4 filters. Second, the P/N of filters have changed, but not the way everyone has mentioned. 056 115 561G: This was made for all gas early inline w/c engines. VW has superceded this part to 034 115 561A. 034 115 561A: This is used on all gas w/c inline engines until 98 (jetta/beetle/golf), 99 (passat) and up to present on cabrios (you figure it out). A few tech people (at VW) have told me this will be superceded to 06A 115 561B soon. 06A 115 561: Already superceded to 06A 115 561B. IGS 115 561: TIICO filter. Not listed in VW price book, nor is it accepted, or better yet superceded, to any other filter in ETKA. 06A 115 561B: You guessed it, all the gas inline engines newer than the list above. The only differences I have seen on the 034 and the 06A is the location of the check valve. Why VW says to use an 034 on a 99 Passat 1.8T and an 06A on a 99 Beetle 1.8T (exactly the same internals) is way beyond me. p.s. These are for gas, inline, 4 cyl US VWs Just for entertainment purposes. Mongo only pawn in game of life. Rennie VolksDragon@earthlink.net Los Angeles Peyton Cramer VW ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:13:07 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: thefts, security Comments: To: Maximiliano Goldschwartz In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Anybody has experience on how to increase the vanagon's security? >I mean make it harder for someone to break in and steal the huge amount of >stuff that's in the cabinets. > >Extra locks? >Alarms? >Explosive handles? > >Dangerous animals inside? :) Yeah, leave the wife inside... ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:16:04 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? In-Reply-To: <001201c164e0$ee4166c0$c5e027cc@d5f1h1> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >I had a '91 Grand Prix with EFI and it ran for about 30 minutes, after the >alternator went, before the voltage got to low (I believe 10 volts) to keep >the engine running. I didn't need my headlights or use turn signals, radio, >or fan. The Grand Prix had a much smaller battery than my '84 Westy has so I >assume my Westy could go much further. You didn't look in the Pontiac owner's handbook, under the brick in the trunk toolkit. There's a panel on the bottom of the passenger-side dash. Open this, pull out handle and turn to hand-crank magneto to keep engine going... ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:16:04 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: thefts, security In-Reply-To: <20011103.214648.-159575.5.wilden1@juno.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Car alarm systems go off all of the time while I'm at the grocery store >parking lot and they are ignored by everybody. >The security guards at shopping malls don't chase to see If a vehicle is >being burglarized when the alarm goes off, your neighbors don't even get >out of their chairs to take a look when your home or car alarm goes off. Agreed. Alarms aren't worth the cost of their packaging... purely because people don't want to get involved. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:16:04 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20011103213008.02c4b010@mail.snowcrest.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >When my Diesel Vanagon caught fire I just replaced a bunch of fuel hoses, >connected a lead to the shut-off solenoid and ran some jumper cables from >the starter to the battery. So no, it does not *need* an alternator to >run. I will say that it was not running in top form under that condition. An old-fasioned diesel has no engine electrics apart from MAYBE a fuel-shutoff valve, and so can run indefinitely without alternator or battery. But you'd have to pushstart. My 57 panel Split, running a 12V single-port 1600 back in 1983, had a regulator failure at the beginning of a 900km (each way) trip; a wire in the winding broke. I had to use wipers for some time, and it got dark. It did about 320km before the engine began sputtering and I had to turn the wipers off; a further 40 or so before the QH headlights became too much for the draining battery, and we had drive on parking lights to find a town and doss down on the grass in a park (van was FULL of heavy junk). I thought it did really well. By the way, I assume your diesel van's fire was electrical! -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:44:31 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: Need ECU and Chip Info MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_04CA_01C164C1.7C274A60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_04CA_01C164C1.7C274A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >I remember people grouping together to buy new chips. Though I've never = read or heard of anyone >saying they were especially glad they did so. = (lilley being the exception since he ratio rockers >whatever they are) Mark... I can't believe you just wrote that. I was involved in the = group purchase and did the half lilley and love it! I have said so any = number of times on this list and the syncro list. The power upgrade was = worth every penny of the price. Does it snap my head back? No. But = does it get me over that annoying powerless hump the WBX is known for... = yes. I rarely floor it anymore. I have enough power to pass. My bus = is really fun to drive now... I try not to put my foot into it, but = sometimes I just can't resist. My wife complains that I drive it like a = sports car... I tell her that it IS a sports car. I can't say enough = good things about the upgrade. In fact, I'm very surprised more people = haven't done it. Or maybe they have and are just laying low. Anybody = out there? =20 BTW, Phil... I had the 022 ECU (unknowingly) when I bought the chip. I = upgraded to the 022D... found someone on the east coast with one in very = nice shape that they sold me for $125. It has worked perfectly for = about a year now. My impression was that that was a pretty cheap price. = Robert Lilley has, or had an almost new one for sale not long ago. Mick Kalber 89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo" Tropical Visions Video, Inc. 62 Halaulani Place Hilo, Hawaii 96720 808-935-5557 808-935-0066 (fax) hotlava@interpac.net www.volcanoscapes.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Mark Dorm=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 8:22 PM Subject: Re: Need ECU and Chip Info I remember people grouping together to buy new chips. Though I've = never read or heard of anyone saying they were especially glad they did = so. (lilley being the exception since he ratio rockers whatever they = are) >=20 >I wish I had 022 D, unfortunately, I'm only a 022. :(=20 >=20 >I'd like to start collecting my parts as described in Mr. Lilley's = parts=20 >list, and I figured the ECU and chip would be a good place to start. = Does=20 >anyone have a used 022D ECU and/or the upgrade chip for sale? I = remember=20 >last year someone bought the chip but had the wrong ECU. Let me know, = >thanks.=20 >=20 >-Phil=20 >89 Westy=20 >Utah=20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_04CA_01C164C1.7C274A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>I remember people grouping together to buy new chips. Though I've = never=20 read or heard of anyone >saying they were especially glad they did = so.=20 (lilley being the exception since he ratio rockers >whatever they = are)

Mark... I can't believe you just wrote that.  I was involved in = the=20 group purchase and did the half lilley and love it!  I have said so = any=20 number of times on this list and the syncro list.  The power = upgrade was=20 worth every penny of the price.  Does it snap my head back?  = No. =20 But does it get me over that annoying powerless hump the WBX is known = for...=20 yes.  I rarely floor it anymore.  I have enough power to = pass. =20 My bus is really fun to drive now... I try not to put my foot into it, = but=20 sometimes I just can't resist.  My wife complains that I drive it = like a=20 sports car... I tell her that it IS a sports car.  I can't say = enough=20 good things about the upgrade.  In fact, I'm very surprised more = people=20 haven't done it.  Or maybe they have and are just laying low.  = Anybody=20 out there? 

BTW, Phil... I had the 022 ECU (unknowingly) when I bought the = chip.  I=20 upgraded to the 022D... found someone on the east coast with one in very = nice=20 shape that they sold me for $125.  It has worked perfectly for = about a year=20 now.  My impression was that that was a pretty cheap price.  = Robert=20 Lilley has, or had an almost new one for sale not long ago.

Mick Kalber
89 Syncro Westy "Daddeo"
Tropical Visions Video, = Inc.
62=20 Halaulani Place
Hilo, Hawaii 96720
808-935-5557
808-935-0066=20 (fax)
hotlava@interpac.net
www.volcanoscapes.com

 

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Mark Dorm=20
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, = 2001 8:22=20 PM
Subject: Re: Need ECU and Chip = Info

I remember people grouping together to buy new chips. Though I've = never=20 read or heard of anyone saying they were especially glad they did so. = (lilley=20 being the exception since he ratio rockers whatever they are)

>

>I wish I had 022 D, unfortunately, I'm only a 022. :(=20
>=20
>I'd like to start collecting my parts as described in = Mr.=20 Lilley's parts=20
>list, and I figured the ECU and chip would be a good = place to=20 start. Does=20
>anyone have a used 022D ECU and/or the upgrade chip for = sale? I=20 remember=20
>last year someone bought the chip but had the wrong = ECU. Let me=20 know,=20
>thanks.=20
>=20
>-Phil=20
>89 Westy=20
>Utah=20


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
------=_NextPart_000_04CA_01C164C1.7C274A60-- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:50:53 -1000 Reply-To: Mick Kalber Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mick Kalber Subject: Re: How does a Westy Camper Handle in the Snow? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit who cares? it doesn't snow in hawaii! LOL! I'm sorry... I just had to do it once this winter. I promise no more for the rest of the year, OK? actually it does snow on top of mauna kea (almost 14K feet). and we do ski up there occassionally. it's a bit of a novelty... no serious skiing, but the syncro makes a great chair lift! Mick 89 syncro westy hilo, hawaii ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 05:57:55 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: oil pressure sender thread size. Comments: To: earthboy@HOME.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greg; That is correct, the hose adapter is 1/8 NPT. The sender is straight metric and NPT means tapered thread. I sent back my adapter hose for this reason. I was concerned that the extender would ruin the threads if I ever wanted to go back to OEM. Purchased some adapters and oil gauge installation kit locally from Pep Boys. I will try and put some pictures of it on my web page in the next couple of days. Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 20:54:33 -0500 Greg Marshall writes: > Hello folks, > > To install my oil pressure guage, I need the little hose adapter > that > allows the sender to be mounted slightly away from the engine. I > found > one for much cheaper than any of the usual vendors, but I'm unsure > if > the thread is correct. The seller says it is 1/8 npt on each end. > Is > this right? Is this the same thread as the hole it needs to go into > in > the engine and the vdo sender? > > Thanks again folks, you're all so helpful. > > Greg. > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 07:01:07 -0500 Reply-To: Vanagon Man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Vanagon Man Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? Comments: To: Michelle & Adam Brooks About 20 years ago, i was coming back to NC from Chicago, when in the middle of the night my alternator went out just outside of Cincinnati...........made it to a gas station with no lights, etc., had them charge the battery, and camped outside the FLAPS. When the flaps opened, they wanted $125 for an alternator (too young to know about brush replacement back then) and I just did not have that kind of money. So, I pulled all my fuses except the engine ones, and drove from Cincinnati to Knoxville........charged the battery there and made it home........ Useful info for when emergencies such as this arise...... Adam P 81 westy (3 of them) 74 beetle 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) 70 Single Cab "Whitey" Vanagon Partsmobiles ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Moery" To: Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 7:42 PM Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? Vanagons, like most all modern vehicles, need electricity to run. When the alternator quits, the engine will run off the battery for quite a while, as long as all the accessories are off, especially the headlights. While it takes just a small current to power the ignition system, the starter is another matter, as you discovered. It takes a lot of amperage to start. Diesels, on the other hand need only enough power to energize the fuel solenoid, so they can run without an alternator for a very long time. Same problem with starting though. Mike Moery, Anchorage, AK ---------------- ||E[__] [__]|[_]\\ | =======| - || * * * =( o )--------( o )= =='Ol Bessie '82TD Westy -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Andrew M Fox Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 2:43 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: can vanagon run w/out alternator? My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was able to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to jumpstart the van and was on my way. Thanks, Andrew Fox 86 Westy Ft. Collins CO ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 12:04:44 -0500 Reply-To: Data Services Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Data Services Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just make sure when that little red alternator light goes on in anything that uses water cooling, that your belt is still on. It only takes a few miles w\o cooling to pop those heads! Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vanagon Man" To: Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 7:01 AM Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? > About 20 years ago, i was coming back to NC from Chicago, when in the middle > of the night my alternator went out just outside of > Cincinnati...........made it to a gas station with no lights, etc., had them > charge the battery, and camped outside the FLAPS. When the flaps opened, > they wanted $125 for an alternator (too young to know about brush > replacement back then) and I just did not have that kind of money. > > So, I pulled all my fuses except the engine ones, and drove from Cincinnati > to Knoxville........charged the battery there and made it home........ > > Useful info for when emergencies such as this arise...... > > Adam P > 81 westy (3 of them) > 74 beetle > 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) > 70 Single Cab "Whitey" > Vanagon Partsmobiles > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Moery" > To: > Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 7:42 PM > Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? > > > Vanagons, like most all modern vehicles, need electricity to run. When > the alternator quits, the engine will run off the battery for quite a > while, as long as all the accessories are off, especially the > headlights. While it takes just a small current to power the ignition > system, the starter is another matter, as you discovered. It takes a > lot of amperage to start. > Diesels, on the other hand need only enough power to energize the fuel > solenoid, so they can run without an alternator for a very long time. > Same problem with starting though. > > Mike Moery, Anchorage, AK > ---------------- > ||E[__] [__]|[_]\\ > | =======| - || > * * * =( o )--------( o )= > =='Ol Bessie '82TD Westy > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf > Of Andrew M Fox > Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 2:43 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: can vanagon run w/out alternator? > > My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the > engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other > accesories? > I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator > goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough > electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you > can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the > electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before > having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have > one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was > able > to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there > was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to > jumpstart the van and was on my way. > > Thanks, > Andrew Fox > 86 Westy > Ft. Collins CO ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 09:16:16 -0800 Reply-To: Robert Crawford Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Crawford Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Yes, the cold start cable rubbed against the fusible link. At 10:16 PM 11/4/01 +1200, Andrew Grebneff wrote: >By the way, I assume your diesel van's fire was electrical! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 12:10:49 EST Reply-To: Trvlr2001@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "John C." Subject: Wanted: Power Doors; MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_10d.8118ea6.2916d099_boundary" --part1_10d.8118ea6.2916d099_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wanted: Power Doors. (p/w, p/l, p/heated mirrors) thanks, John Carpenter SLC, UT 85 Westaru... --part1_10d.8118ea6.2916d099_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wanted:
Power Doors. (p/w, p/l, p/heated mirrors)
thanks,
John Carpenter
SLC, UT
85 Westaru...
--part1_10d.8118ea6.2916d099_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 09:14:50 -0800 Reply-To: Patrick Harris Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Patrick Harris Subject: Re: Brake light sensitivity Comments: To: michael.radtke@BULL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed You know, I had the same problem on my 81 here. Even after I did a full brake job and even evac and replace the brake fluid, that switch didn't come on until you were really on the brakes. What I did, because it was relitively inexpensive, however, neck breaking.. I just replaced the switch. I came to the conclusion that either the pressure switch had worn or crud got lodged in somehow and messed with the switch. But, I think that's what he was trying to aim at. That even though the brakes are working fine, the brake lights are failing to come on until the brakes are applied firmly. I must say, it was a bad design on VW's part. They should have done just like everyone else, a pedal switch. Because, when that switch is bad and you feather the brakes, nobody behind you knows what your doing because the lights aren't lighting. Oh well, that's my 2 cents. Cheers! Patrick Harris Longview, Washington >Blake, > >The brake light switch works on brake fluid pressure in my '84 and there >are actually two switches, one for each brake fluid circuit. If only one >switch switches, the brake warning light comes on. It is unlikely that >both switches have become insensitive, and you didn't mention that the >brake warning light lit. So, the answer is without some re-design, you >can't make the brake lights come on before there is brake fluid pressure. > >Maybe your worried that the brake pedal is too low ... moves too far before >the brakes start to work. Well, that's a whole different question. > > >Mike Phoenix AZ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 07:20:41 -1000 Reply-To: Andrew M Fox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew M Fox Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? Comments: To: Vanagon Man In-Reply-To: <005601c16528$64124260$1a8b393f@cc414811b> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII When my alternator went i drove fro at least 3 hours and could have driven longer (it did'nt die just failed to start). This is with an 8 month old battery and no accessories. I suppose then having a fully charger full size aux battery could get you about 3 hours driving time w/ no accesories. If its hot pulling the radiator fan fuse might not be such a bad idea (assuming you watch the gauge carefully). This is one situation where having a real voltmeter gauge could be a big advantage as opposed to the trouble light. When mine failed i connectd my multimeter to the battery so i could monitor what the alternator was doing. THanks for all the info! Andrew Fox 96 Westy Ft. Collins CO www2.hawaii.edu/~andrewf/vanagon/links.htm On Sun, 4 Nov 2001, Vanagon Man wrote: > About 20 years ago, i was coming back to NC from Chicago, when in the middle > of the night my alternator went out just outside of > Cincinnati...........made it to a gas station with no lights, etc., had them > charge the battery, and camped outside the FLAPS. When the flaps opened, > they wanted $125 for an alternator (too young to know about brush > replacement back then) and I just did not have that kind of money. > > So, I pulled all my fuses except the engine ones, and drove from Cincinnati > to Knoxville........charged the battery there and made it home........ > > Useful info for when emergencies such as this arise...... > > Adam P > 81 westy (3 of them) > 74 beetle > 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) > 70 Single Cab "Whitey" > Vanagon Partsmobiles > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Moery" > To: > Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 7:42 PM > Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? > > > Vanagons, like most all modern vehicles, need electricity to run. When > the alternator quits, the engine will run off the battery for quite a > while, as long as all the accessories are off, especially the > headlights. While it takes just a small current to power the ignition > system, the starter is another matter, as you discovered. It takes a > lot of amperage to start. > Diesels, on the other hand need only enough power to energize the fuel > solenoid, so they can run without an alternator for a very long time. > Same problem with starting though. > > Mike Moery, Anchorage, AK > ---------------- > ||E[__] [__]|[_]\\ > | =======| - || > * * * =( o )--------( o )= > =='Ol Bessie '82TD Westy > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf > Of Andrew M Fox > Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 2:43 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: can vanagon run w/out alternator? > > My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the > engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other > accesories? > I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator > goes you have a limited amount of time before there is'nt enough > electricity to to run these critical engine electrical systms. If you > can't run the engine without proper voltage does anyone know what the > electrical draw is of the vanagon engine, ie how long can you go before > having to get a tow or switch to your alternate battery (if you have > one). Recently on a long trip my alternator stopped working. I was > able > to drive but when i stopped for gas and tried to start it again there > was'nt enough juice for the starter. I used my auxillary battery to > jumpstart the van and was on my way. > > Thanks, > Andrew Fox > 86 Westy > Ft. Collins CO > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 09:29:37 -0800 Reply-To: daniel lawson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: daniel lawson Subject: I hate myself and want to die MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The other day I made a huge mistake. I injured my 85 westy. Upon pulling up to a gas pump a little too fast I scraped the sliding door and right rear fender on the concrete poles that are in front of all gas pumps (for protection???). Anyway I am depressed and in need of some advice... How should I go about preventing rust from occurring? (I am not a body man by any means) Should I sand it down and primer it? does the Vw dealer carry touch up paint? what can I do to keep the rust from speading while I save up money to fix it properly? thanks in advance --daniel __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 12:42:39 EST Reply-To: CMathis227@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chuck Mathis Subject: Re: antisieze compound MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit George, Many anti-seize compounds contain lead. Lead is certain, almost instant, death for an O2 sensor. There are a number of copper based anti-seize compounds that work just fine for this. Chuck '85 Wolfsburg Westy - 'Roland the Road Buffalo' In a message dated 11/3/01 11:04:01 PM, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: << Thanks for the reply. Yes, on the oxygen sensor. I was wondering if you meant that the antisieze tended to isolate the ground side of the circuit by insulating the sensor where the threads meet the exhaust pipe. From your reply, I guess this isn't a problem. George (84 Camper) >> ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 12:50:29 EST Reply-To: CMathis227@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chuck Mathis Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Been there, done that. My alternator crapped out several miles west of Nashville on I-40. By jumping from the auxiliary battery I was able to coax the van something close to 40 miles, in the rain with real s-l-o-w wipers, to the nearest AutoZone where I bought their only rebuilt Vanagon alternator. That was a year and a half ago and that cheesy rebuild is still working fine. Chuck '85 Wolfsburg Westy - 'Roland the Road Buffalo' In a message dated 11/3/01 11:04:01 PM, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: << Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:15:53 -0500 From: Carl Hansen Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? 15 miles, then dead. well, not sure how "up" the battery was to start with, but it started normally, so I'm assuming it was OK. Lots of corrosion from sitting for a year with little use, cleaned up the brushes and ?stator? and I may have even replaced the regulator/brushes assembly. YMMV Ch Carl Hansen 609-268-8595 - home 856-866-6387 - work carl_hansen@ieee.org - personal carl.hansen@lmco.com - work In a perfect world without walls or fences........ .....................why would we need Windows or Gates? **** SNIP FROM ORIGINAL **** My question is if the alternator fails on a vanagon can you keep the engine running assuming you don't need headlights or any other accesories? I know that on some cars the EFI uses electricity so if the alternator goes you have a limited amount of time>> ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 10:14:23 -0800 Reply-To: wayne marek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: wayne marek Subject: Re: I hate myself and want to die Comments: To: daniel lawson In-Reply-To: <20011104172937.82324.qmail@web10702.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii --- daniel lawson wrote: > The other day I made a huge mistake. I injured my 85 > westy. Upon pulling up to a gas pump a little too > fast I scraped the sliding door and right rear > fender > on the concrete poles that are in front of all gas > pumps (for protection???). Anyway I am depressed and > in need of some advice... Daniel, The easiest would be to buy a bottle of Extend(rust preventer)with brush attached to bottom of cap. You can find it at your "FLAPS"(Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). Remember it's always the rust you can't see that gets(bites)you in the end(bootocks). Wayne __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:19:36 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: I hate myself and want to die Comments: To: volkswayne@yahoo.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_142.414fb85.2916e0b8_boundary" --part1_142.414fb85.2916e0b8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit dealer carries touchup paint in spray cans chris --part1_142.414fb85.2916e0b8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit dealer carries touchup paint in spray cans

chris
--part1_142.414fb85.2916e0b8_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:47:43 -0500 Reply-To: "R. Hotchkiss" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "R. Hotchkiss" Subject: Re: can vanagon run w/out alternator? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I drove 75 miles with my lights on, including a restart within the first 10 miles. Just as I was pulling into my driveway did the vanagon start to be weird. Went back to pep boys and got a free replacement (lifetime warranty). Hotch 86 Vanagon GL 89 Jetta GL Philly -- Richard Hotchkiss http://www.hotstrings-inc.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:32:21 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Da Parts Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hi All, Ok, here is the current list of stuff I have left, from the 87 I stripped. (1) perfct black lower center dash panel (1) perfect black automatic shift handle, and console. (1) L /H front door window regulator (1) R/H front door window regulator (2) front door power lock solinoids (3) door switch's for the interior lights (1) R/H front door in nice shape ( 1) R/H grey interior door panel in nice shape (20) interior door panel fastener's (1) rear window wiper arm (1) rear wiper motor (1) rear widow washer tank and pump (1) all the glass except the windsheild (1) front fiberglass bumper in decent shape (1) decent fiberglass R/H rear bumper end (1) decent fiberglass L/H rear bumper end (1) rear red quarter panel marker light (2) front door ( R/ & L/H ) lower fiberglass panels to match the bumper (2) Front wiper arms ( the driver's side has the wind wing rivited to it ) (1) front wiper motor (1) front windsheild washer pump (3) black coat hooks ( button's ) (1) Black L/H door pillar assist handle (1) Black center door assist handle (2) Black rear seat assist loops (handles) (1) Black un-used dash ash tray-- as new. (3) Black rear ash trays (1) rear florescent light--small crack in lens, . (1) Kenwood model # KRC-201 Am / Fm / cassette deck. (1) perfect black plastic front emergency brake handle cover (2) grey front seats, no rips or tears, no headrests, nice shape. (1) complete AC system--grey tunnel (1) perfect steering column, with TS , and wiper switch and ignition key and lock, with perfect black plastic cover's, and steering wheel (1) brake booster, and master cylinder. (4) black rear air vent's (1) nice grey front rug (1) radiator (2) nice Wolfsburg front fender emblem's (4) Nice set of stock VW alloy 14" wheels with Bridgestone SF402, 205x75-R14's (2) automatic axle shafts / with CV joints (1) nice running 2.1 engine --drive it home :>) (1) Excellent shifting automatic trans. (1) cataletic converter (1) Coolant recovery tank (1) Coolant resivoir (1) alternator (1) Fuel Pump (1) Control unit (1) idle stabilization control unit (1) fuel tank (1) locking gas cap with key And a few other sundries----- Shipping costs are not included, and the point of origin--Chicago Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile-(Clementine--(Morto) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 09:44:18 -1000 Reply-To: Andrew M Fox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew M Fox Subject: Re: I hate myself and want to die Comments: To: daniel lawson In-Reply-To: <20011104172937.82324.qmail@web10702.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII VW dealers don't carry Vanagon paint anymore. There is a list of paint codes for the vanagon on gerry somewhere. Once you get the paint code you can have the paint made at Tower Paint (800-779-6520). I think it was about $20 for a 16 oz spray can. If there is'nt any rust already I would prime it asap with any primer made for metal that is close to the color of your van. Then you can sand the primer and apply the touchup spray paint. I used this method when I treated all the rust on my van this summer and it worked fine. Just don't expect showroom results. IF you want those bring it somewhere and be prepared to spend some big bucks. Andrew Fox 96 Westy Ft. Collins CO www2.hawaii.edu/~andrewf/vanagon/links.htm On Sun, 4 Nov 2001, daniel lawson wrote: > The other day I made a huge mistake. I injured my 85 > westy. Upon pulling up to a gas pump a little too > fast I scraped the sliding door and right rear fender > on the concrete poles that are in front of all gas > pumps (for protection???). Anyway I am depressed and > in need of some advice... > How should I go about preventing rust from > occurring? (I am not a body man by any means) Should I > sand it down and primer it? does the Vw dealer carry > touch up paint? what can I do to keep the rust from > speading while I save up money to fix it properly? > thanks in advance --daniel > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 22:51:42 -0600 Reply-To: Theresa Reinhardt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Theresa Reinhardt Subject: Stuck in MD - but not alone MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0025_01C163F0.F0BFFF60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C163F0.F0BFFF60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi guys and gals, Thanks for the outpouring of support! I feel I just gained a big family! Karl, I cannot get your phone numbers to work (my cell doesn't work at all, and when I get through on AT&T, it tells me "..call cannot be completed as dialled". Could you possibly call again? Teresa ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C163F0.F0BFFF60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi guys and gals,
 
Thanks for the outpouring of support! I = feel I just=20 gained
a big family!
 
Karl, I cannot get your phone numbers = to work (my=20 cell
doesn't work at all, and when I get = through on=20 AT&T,
it tells me "..call cannot be completed = as=20 dialled".
 
Could you possibly call = again?
 
Teresa
------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C163F0.F0BFFF60-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:42:29 -0800 Reply-To: Susan Bernavich Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Susan Bernavich Subject: fan knob MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Vananuts,,,The knob that turns on the fan keeps falling off...now I put it back in and the knob will not turn one way or the other...how should I go about fixing this? This seems trivial, but being non mechanical I do not want to do something that would mess something else up...anyway would be nice to have some heat here....thanks in advance....sb ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:54:38 -0800 Reply-To: Cary Chiang Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Cary Chiang Subject: How to rebuild power steering rack? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-229121129-1004910878=:98075" --0-229121129-1004910878=:98075 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Listees: I am considering rebuilding my leaking power steering rack, using the rebuild kit available from the list vendors, as opposed to buying one already rebuilt. I need of advice. Does anyone know if it requires special tools or knowledge, and can anyone who has done it share their experience? the Bentley manual has no information about this. Thanks in advance! Cary --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume on Yahoo! Careers. --0-229121129-1004910878=:98075 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Listees:

I am considering rebuilding my leaking power steering rack, using the rebuild kit available from the list vendors, as opposed to buying one already rebuilt.  I need of advice.  Does anyone know if it requires special tools or knowledge, and can anyone who has done it share their experience?  the Bentley manual has no information about this.  Thanks in advance!

Cary 



Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume on Yahoo! Careers. --0-229121129-1004910878=:98075-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 16:17:44 -0600 Reply-To: Theresa Reinhardt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Theresa Reinhardt Subject: Down and out in MD; now: Back in IL MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0074_01C1654C.3C7C8D40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C1654C.3C7C8D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Guys: First of all, I'd like to thank list members for their incredible support, and for not writing what must have been on everyone's mind... While I was not able to communicate very well from on the road, I'd now like to take the time to thank Ed, Rachel, Jerry, Steve, Tom, Phaedra, Bill and KARL for their advice, encouragement and, in the case of the latter, competent investigation/diagnosis of the = sick van. Thanks especially also to the person who alerted Karl!!! If I have forgotten to mention anyone, please forgive me; I am now juggling messages on two computers... Not to mention that I am still fuming. While it has been suggested that I sue [PO, the shop] I accept full responsibility for my less than stellar decisions (both in the process of purchasing the thing and on the road). But I thought I had good advice from the=20 shop... Overall, things could have been much worse (e.g., I could have been rear ended by one of the many big rigs trying to get home on Friday night on = the=20 Penna Turnpike, I could have broken down nowhere near Karl's shop, he = might=20 have thought it was more important to get moved, this list might not = have=20 existed...). Instead, it was sunny, people were helpful, nobody was hurt in the process (other than the van), and except major = communications problem with the cell and long distance phone/e-mail communication, = everything worked out OK. So, now I have an '82 Diesel Westy in VA that needs a new head and some = creative improvements made by the PO's reversed (aftermarket turbo...Karl knows a = lot more=20 about this) and sits in Karl's brother's drive. I have to decide what I want to do - while I think the van is in good = shape (though grungy) and it would be worth investing some more money in it, I have some = reservations: 1. I do not know of a reliable shop (or any at all) that will work on = these in IL (my concern: maintenance in the future, even if/when Karl does the work). 2. Karl will not have time until the spring; I'd rather not have the = vehicle sit that long/not being able to use it. Anyone have any ideas = about getting it here so I can at least work on the inside etc.? 3. Other than fixing this engine (which Karl seems to think is a viable = option and should cost me about $1,000), should I go for a bigger = engine? I did get to ride in Karl's van which is awesome, but I don't = need that kind of performance. I am after the (supposed) longevity, fuel = economy, and "torque rather than top end speed" of a Diesel I admit my = Diesel experience is limited to Mercedes). Should I retain the aftermarket turbo (which Karl seemed to think = definitely improved the performance of the engine, compared to regular = Diesels). 4. Does anyone want to buy it before I start sinking money by the grand = into it (I wouldn't do any of the serious work myself; so I have to pay = for it - retail) and before I get attached to it (getting close)? 5. Any other words of wisdom? Thanks again, Teresa ------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C1654C.3C7C8D40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Guys:
 
First of all, I'd like to thank list = members for=20 their
incredible support, and for not writing = what must=20 have been
on everyone's mind...
 
While I was not able to communicate = very well from=20 on the road,
I'd now like to take the time to thank = Ed, Rachel,=20 Jerry, Steve,
Tom, Phaedra, Bill and KARL for their = advice,=20 encouragement
and, in the case of the = latter, competent=20 investigation/diagnosis of the sick
van. Thanks = especially also=20 to the person who alerted Karl!!!
If I have forgotten to mention anyone, = please=20 forgive me;
I am now juggling messages on two=20 computers...
 
 
Not to mention that I am still fuming. = While it has=20 been suggested
that I sue [PO, the shop] I accept full = responsibility for my
less than stellar decisions (both in = the process of=20 purchasing the
thing and on the road). But I thought I = had good=20 advice from the
shop...
 
Overall, things could have been much = worse (e.g., I=20 could have been rear
ended by one of the many big rigs = trying to get=20 home on Friday night on the
Penna Turnpike, I=20 could have broken down nowhere near Karl's shop, he might
have thought it was more important to = get moved,=20 this list might not have =
existed...). Instead, it was sunny, = people were=20 helpful, nobody was
hurt in the process (other than the = van), and=20 except major communications
problem with the cell and long distance = phone/e-mail communication, everything
worked out OK.
 
So, now I have an '82 Diesel Westy in = VA that needs=20 a new head and some creative
improvements made by the PO's reversed = (aftermarket=20 turbo...Karl knows a lot more =
about this) and sits in Karl's = brother's=20 drive.
I have to decide what I want to do - = while I think=20 the van is in good shape (though grungy)
and it would be worth investing some = more money in=20 it, I have some reservations:
 
1. I do not know of a reliable shop (or = any at all)=20 that will work on these in IL (my concern:
maintenance in the future, even if/when = Karl does=20 the work).
2. Karl will not have time until the = spring; I'd=20 rather not have the vehicle sit that long/not being able to use it. = Anyone have=20 any ideas about getting it here so I can at least work on the inside=20 etc.?
3. Other than fixing this engine (which = Karl seems=20 to think is a viable option and should cost me about $1,000), should I = go for a=20 bigger engine? I did get to ride in Karl's van which is awesome, but I = don't=20 need that kind of performance. I am after the (supposed) longevity, fuel = economy, and "torque rather than top end speed" of a Diesel I admit my = Diesel=20 experience is limited to Mercedes).
Should I retain the aftermarket turbo = (which Karl=20 seemed to think definitely improved the performance of the engine, = compared to=20 regular Diesels).
4. Does anyone want to buy it before I = start=20 sinking money by the grand into it (I wouldn't do any of the serious = work=20 myself; so I have to pay for it - retail) and before I get attached to = it=20 (getting close)?
5. Any other words of = wisdom?
 
Thanks again,
Teresa
------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C1654C.3C7C8D40-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 15:25:55 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! In-Reply-To: <007701c1657e$898ba6c0$a3c53a3f@oemcomputer> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Theresa Reinhardt spoke thus: 5. Any other words of wisdom? Yes, I will repeat my post of Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:35:55 -0600 Entity Kevin Hayden spoke thus: > I have an opportunity to purchase a 1982 Diesel Vanagon and was > wondering if they are worth considering Just do not buy one that is worn out unless you are willing to rebuild it. This is the season for "unloading" worn out diesels. It happens a lot that someone buys a used diesel car/truck this season and a month later when it is cold the thing won't start, that is when you learn it needs a new engine Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 17:30:38 EST Reply-To: FrankGRUN@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Grunthaner Subject: Re: Down and out in MD; now: Back in IL Comments: To: wordbridge@home.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I haven't followed the details of the problem but from a quick read, I surmise that 1. PO did some work on engine, possibly removing head. 2. No initial leaks 3. Leaks from the interface of block to head of coolant. Based on these marginal suppositions, I would just suggest a possible lower cost solution. A common practice of many non-VW shops is to reuse the head bolts and retorque them. Another practice is to bolt the head down hard before beginning the torquing sequence. In my experience, all diesel heads are warped (usually center high). The head bolts are actually torqued right up to the yield and stretch point. Reusing the old head bolts now puts them well into the yield part of the curve and they relax or release with subsequent heating. (Yes, I know many backyard mechanics reuse the head bolts and never have a problem, but I have been assured that pigs fly also). When replacing depressingly bowed heads in the past, I carefully followed the torquing instructions with new head bolts. Fired the engine up to operating temperature then retorqued (often added half a turn) then drove the car for about 30 minutes, retorqued and finally a third time. With one VW rabbit block I retorqued 5 times before I had no more bolt rotation. I recall I asked an old diesel mechanic (while working on my Peugeot diesel) how many times should I repeat the retorquing cycle ... he replied with exasperation ... as long as it takes! Well, what if I don't? and he replied "head gasket leak sooner than later". Anyway, the head is astonishingly flexible. The proper torquing spreads it so gasket compliance takes over. Just a thought, value limited to transference costs. Frank Grunthaner ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 17:44:01 -0500 Reply-To: marty guinn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: marty guinn Subject: WANTED: 1.9L Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed HI ALL! I'm looking for a good 1.9L engine and am located in eastern Ohio. peace & love, mg 88 westy _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 17:53:18 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: Down and out in MD; now: Back in IL Comments: To: wordbridge@HOME.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Theresa, these vans can be a labor of love! I have an 87' Syncro that I purchased 4 years ago. I looked for the "best bargain" when I bought it and Paid for that for about the next 2 years! I ended up having to have the engine rebuilt within 2 months (that was the big kick). Then little odds and ends. CV joints, water pump(again!) ect. The crazy thing is I love this van. We have installed a bed conversion and now travel all over the place to bike races. We easily put15-20K per year on our van. It is a daily driver and weekend traveler. I am in the process of getting an Aux battery and better heating. I guess what I am trying to say in all this, is that they are great vehicles! It sound like you took the same road as me and tried to save a few bucks. This might bite you in the immediate future, but if you can hang in there and get it stabalized you will love it, and it will treat you to many adventures on the road! Good luck

Randy Charrette

87' Syncro weekender

>From: Theresa Reinhardt
>Reply-To: Theresa Reinhardt
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Down and out in MD; now: Back in IL
>Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 16:17:44 -0600
>
>Hi Guys:
>
>First of all, I'd like to thank list members for their
>incredible support, and for not writing what must have been
>on everyone's mind...
>
>While I was not able to communicate very well from on the road,
>I'd now like to take the time to thank Ed, Rachel, Jerry, Steve,
>Tom, Phaedra, Bill and KARL for their advice, encouragement
>and, in the case of the latter, competent investigation/diagnosis of the sick
>van. Thanks especially also to the person who alerted Karl!!!
>If I have forgotten to mention anyone, please forgive me;
>I am now juggling messages on two computers...
>
>
>Not to mention that I am still fuming. While it has been suggested
>that I sue [PO, the shop] I accept full responsibility for my
>less than stellar decisions (both in the process of purchasing the
>thing and on the road). But I thought I had good advice from the
>shop...
>
>Overall, things could have been much worse (e.g., I could have been rear
>ended by one of the many big rigs trying to get home on Friday night on the
>Penna Turnpike, I could have broken down nowhere near Karl's shop, he might
>have thought it was more important to get moved, this list might not have
>existed...). Instead, it was sunny, people were helpful, nobody was
>hurt in the process (other than the van), and except major communications
>problem with the cell and long distance phone/e-mail communication, everything
>worked out OK.
>
>So, now I have an '82 Diesel Westy in VA that needs a new head and some creative
>improvements made by the PO's reversed (aftermarket turbo...Karl knows a lot more
>about this) and sits in Karl's brother's drive.
>I have to decide what I want to do - while I think the van is in good shape (though grungy)
>and it would be worth investing some more money in it, I have some reservations:
>
>1. I do not know of a reliable shop (or any at all) that will work on these in IL (my concern:
>maintenance in the future, even if/when Karl does the work).
>2. Karl will not have time until the spring; I'd rather not have the vehicle sit that long/not being able to use it. Anyone have any ideas about getting it here so I can at least work on the inside etc.?
>3. Other than fixing this engine (which Karl seems to think is a viable option and should cost me about $1,000), should I go for a bigger engine? I did get to ride in Karl's van which is awesome, but I don't need that kind of performance. I am after the (supposed) longevity, fuel economy, and "torque rather than top end speed" of a Diesel I admit my Diesel experience is limited to Mercedes).
>Should I retain the aftermarket turbo (which Karl seemed to think definitely improved the performance of the engine, compared to regular Diesels).
>4. Does anyone want to buy it before I start sinking money by the grand into it (I wouldn't do any of the serious work myself; so I have to pay for it - retail) and before I get attached to it (getting close)?
>5. Any other words of wisdom?
>
>Thanks again,
>Teresa


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:27:55 EST Reply-To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Lashley Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: Gnarlodious@earthlink.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/4/01 4:26:48 PM, Gnarlodious@EARTHLINK.NET writes: << and a month later when it is cold the thing won't start, that is when you learn it needs a new engine >> No, that's when it needs new glow plugs. Steve Lashley SKL Enterprises Inc. http://EuroCampers.com 636-797-9015 636-789-2127 fax ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:03:29 -0500 Reply-To: ncbus Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: ncbus Subject: 1967 bus for sale in North Carolina Comments: To: type2@type2.com, vintagebus@type2.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Hi, The bus is a 1967 deluxe that lost its trim about 20 years ago. It is a 7 passenger walkthru and has all of the seats and interior panels. Currently the bus is being pushed around by a 1969 single port motor with about 35,000 since it was last rebuilt. The bus can be sold with or without the motor. I have put a lot of pictures and a more detailed description of the bus on my web page. Please visit it and if you have any questions or interest in the bus send me an email. For sale page http://www.mindspring.com/~ncbus/67fs/ email ncbus@mindspring.com Thanks Chris Greensboro, NC EveryBus 2002, April 19th 20th and 21st ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 17:05:40 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <51.13ae9ac5.291728fb@aol.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Entity Steve Lashley spoke thus: > << and a month later when it > is cold the thing won't start, that is when you learn it needs a new engine > > No, that's when it needs new glow plugs. Maybe you are living at sea level but at this altitude (7200 ft, 2200 meters) the main symptom of no cold starts is lack of compression. Many times people have asked me why they bought their diesel (any diesel) in Houston or Seattle and it won't run in Santa Fe. They did not account for the thin air. Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:47:13 -0500 Reply-To: Vanagon Man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Vanagon Man Subject: Rebuilding a steering rack for an 81 vanagon Comments: To: type2@type2.com, busdepot@email.com Volks, I have replaced everything in the front end ofmy 81 (the brick) and when I go over a bump in the road, etc., there is a hell of a rattle under the front end and i feel it in my steering.......thus i feel it may be the rack. I see bus depot has a repair kit for $89.99 vs. $300 plus for a newly rebuilt unit. I have had one of these off the car before, and it does not look all that complex.....my question is, what would said kit/rebuild entail? Adam P 81 westy (3 of them) 74 beetle 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) 70 Single Cab "Whitey" Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:03:18 -0800 Reply-To: Laurence Smith Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Laurence Smith Subject: Re: AFM wierdness In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have found that the AFM resistence is supposed to fluctuate all over the place. It seems to go up to about 1400 ohms and then down to about 900 - certainly it is not a monotonic increase or even a smooth curve. Several messages in the archives confirm this. Evidently there is more sophisticated equipment needed to know more. Does the new AFM work okay with the wiring connected? Have you checked your throttle switch? Laurence Smith Hamilton, ON 90 Westy (Fanumbos) -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf Of Blake Thornton Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 8:53 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: AFM wierdness I have an 84 Westy and I took my AFM meter apart yesterday in the hopes of stopping the problem I've been having. What's been happening is that I lose all power suddenly, and almost as suddenly (sometimes) I get back the power. The van doesn't die, but it does absolutely nothing when I move the throttle. So, I took looked at all the wires (and they looked ok) and then took out the AFM and tested it per Bentley. I also have another AFM (new AFM from here on out) thats been sitting around for a couple years that I compared to my old one. In the resistance test, Bentley says to expect between 500-1000 ohms. Old AFM was at about 550 and new AFM was at about 750. In the other test, you just hook up the ohm meter and move the wiper. The numbers seemed different as well. And, it also seemed for both AFM's, the resistance was not strictly increasing or decreasing. The ohms bounced around going up sometime and going down sometimes. it was wierd. I also took the lid off the old AFM and everything looked fine inside. There was not a lot of carbon build up. I haven't taken apart an AFM before so I can't say if it was super clean, but it looked ok. I was a bit upset that I hadn't found the problem there. So, I put the new AFM in my van and left the old AFM on a shelf. When putting it in my van, I tried an experiment. I tried running the van without the AFM connected electronically. The van ran a bit rough but it responded to the throttle. I thought this was odd as I had expected the van to not run at all without being hooked up to the AFM. I suppose the ECU adjusted the fuel mix according the O2 sensor? In any case, I decided that this showed that my problem is probably not an electrical connection between AFM and ecu (because when it happens to me, I get no response from the throttle). Any comments or thoughts? thanks, blake 84 Westy SLC UT ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:22:57 EST Reply-To: TStone8359@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tom Stone Subject: Re: Down and out in MD; now: Back in IL Comments: To: wordbridge@home.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_bd.168466be.291743f1_boundary" --part1_bd.168466be.291743f1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Glad you are back and safe. Here are a few more thoughts: 1. The Vanagon diesel setup is fairly conventional even though the vehicle is not. I would think that in the land of big diesel power (Peoria), there would someone who would be willing to work on the engine and fuel system and maintain it for you. The rest of the vehicle is the same as other Vanagons. While they are not plentiful, they are fairly straightforward and the VW dealer or other VW shops can work on them. Remember Downs Import that I told you about earlier will work on them if you can't find someone local. Remember that you would have had this issue whether you broke down in MD or not, so don't let your recent experience cloud your judgment. 2. I have rented U-Hauls and trailers for such things. I have broken down in a major way twice so am "experienced." You CAN do it yourself, but it would be nice to have someone along to help get it loaded, etc. This is not cheap. I'd say in the $3-700 range, depending on how successful you are at finding good prices on the rental units. It would be best to drive out in another vehicle with an accomplice, pick up the rental units there, load up, and drive both back. There are other possibilities if you know someone with a big (powerful) pickup. You rent a trailer or tow dolly here, drive out, load the van and drive back. This would be in the $1-200 range for rental. Another possibility is to have it shipped back, but I don't have experience in that method. 3. While there is a certain amount of appeal to having Karl do the work, he is not the only one who can do it. A problem with having him do it is if he does the work and you pick up the van and try drive home, any kind of problem means that you are broken down on the road again and then you WOULD be wanting to get rid of it. I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with Karl's work at all, only that doing something soon is better than waiting, and having the work done local to you keeps you and the shop physically close so if there are problems, they can be addressed quickly and cheaply. I have done enough work on cars to know that my confidence in the vehicle and in the quality of my work improves greatly after a couple of thousand mile test drive. 4. I think that in the long run, you will be more satisfied with a vehicle with more power. There are many on the list who will disagree and many who will agree. But YOU have to choose. If you are always going to use it in "blue highways" mode, then the current setup is OK. But if you will have to depend on it to get you places with time constraints, the current setup can lead to frustrations and the risk of trying to push the vehicle beyond what it is safely capable of. Of course, this means more $$$ and adds to the pleasure of trying to find someone to work on it. The more unique the vehicle is, the more challenging it will be. 5. I would go over in your mind what got you to the decision to buy this particular vehicle in the first place. Most of the factors which lead to the decision are probably still true. Your eyes are open a bit wider to the possibilities of bad things happening, but the vehicles are reliable once you get the bugs fixed and you won't find many alternatives out there. I wouldn't give up on the dream yet. Take care Tom '71 Westy, '85 Westy, '91 Carat --part1_bd.168466be.291743f1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Glad you are back and safe.  Here are a few more thoughts:

1.  The Vanagon diesel setup is fairly conventional even though the vehicle is not.  I would think that in the land of big diesel power (Peoria), there would someone who would be willing to work on the engine and fuel system and maintain it for you.  The rest of the vehicle is the same as other Vanagons.  While they are not plentiful, they are fairly straightforward and the VW dealer or other VW shops can work on them.  Remember Downs Import that I told you about earlier will work on them if you can't find someone local.  Remember that you would have had this issue whether you broke down in MD or not, so don't let your recent experience cloud your judgment.

2.  I have rented U-Hauls and trailers for such things.  I have broken down in a major way twice so am "experienced."  You CAN do it yourself, but it would be nice to have someone along to help get it loaded, etc.  This is not cheap.  I'd say in the $3-700 range, depending on how successful you are at finding good prices on the rental units.  It would be best to drive out in another vehicle with an accomplice, pick up the rental units there, load up, and drive both back.  There are other possibilities if you know someone with a big (powerful) pickup.  You rent a trailer or tow dolly here, drive out, load the van and drive back.  This would be in the $1-200 range for rental.  Another possibility is to have it shipped back, but I don't have experience in that method.

3.  While there is a certain amount of appeal to having Karl do the work, he is not the only one who can do it.  A problem with having him do it is if he does the work and you pick up the van and try drive home, any kind of problem means that you are broken down on the road again and then you WOULD be wanting to get rid of it.  I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with Karl's work at all, only that doing something soon is better than waiting, and having the work done local to you keeps you and the shop physically close so if there are problems, they can be addressed quickly and cheaply.  I have done enough work on cars to know that my confidence in the vehicle and in the quality of my work improves greatly after a couple of thousand mile test drive.

4. I think that in the long run, you will be more satisfied with a vehicle with more power.  There are many on the list who will disagree and many who will agree.  But YOU have to choose.  If you are always going to use it in "blue highways" mode, then the current setup is OK.  But if you will have to depend on it to get you places with time constraints, the current setup can lead to frustrations and the risk of trying to push the vehicle beyond what it is safely capable of.  Of course, this means more $$$ and adds to the pleasure of trying to find someone to work on it.  The more unique the vehicle is, the more challenging it will be.

5.  I would go over in your mind what got you to the decision to buy this particular vehicle in the first place.  Most of the factors which lead to the decision are probably still true.  Your eyes are open a bit wider to the possibilities of bad things happening, but the vehicles are reliable once you get the bugs fixed and you won't find many alternatives out there.  I wouldn't give up on the dream yet.

Take care

Tom
'71 Westy, '85 Westy, '91 Carat 
--part1_bd.168466be.291743f1_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:23:05 -0600 Reply-To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: Gnarlodious In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not necessarily an altitude thing either.... Once the compression gets borderline, they start pretty hard even if the glow plugs work. You notice it first toward the end of fall / beginning of winter. Then when the real cold hits, there you sit unless you brought your long extension cord for the block heater (BTDT). Chris > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf > Of Gnarlodious > Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 6:06 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! > > > Entity Steve Lashley spoke thus: > > > << and a month later when it > > is cold the thing won't start, that is when you learn it needs > a new engine > > > > No, that's when it needs new glow plugs. > Maybe you are living at sea level but at this altitude (7200 ft, 2200 > meters) the main symptom of no cold starts is lack of compression. > Many times people have asked me why they bought their diesel (any diesel) > in Houston or Seattle and it won't run in Santa Fe. They did not > account for > the thin air. > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:40:59 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: I hate myself and want to die (touch up spray paint) Comments: To: andrewf@hawaii.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_13f.3f57ccc.2917482b_boundary" --part1_13f.3f57ccc.2917482b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/4/01 2:44:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, andrewf@HAWAII.EDU writes: > VW dealers don't carry Vanagon paint anymore. I am afraid you are mistaken. vw carries nearly all colors in the spray. just went to my local vw dealer last week and ordered a few cans of dove blue metallic for my 84 van, and a can of agate brown for my 78 westy. came in friday, perfect match. chris --part1_13f.3f57ccc.2917482b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/4/01 2:44:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, andrewf@HAWAII.EDU writes:


VW dealers don't carry Vanagon paint anymore.  


I am afraid you are mistaken.
vw carries nearly all colors in the spray.  just went to my local vw dealer last week and ordered a few cans of dove blue metallic for my 84 van, and a can of agate brown for my 78 westy. came in friday, perfect match.

chris
--part1_13f.3f57ccc.2917482b_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:39:12 -0600 Reply-To: Roy Olynick Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Roy Olynick Subject: Re: How does a Westy Camper Handle in the Snow? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit How does a Westy handle in the snow?....Terrible, from my experience. Driving my 2WD '87 Westy in the Real Winter here on the Canadian prairies was a nightmare. Very little traction and lots of rear end sway and fish tailing on slippery roads. The camper was a year round daily driver for twelve years. During those years I went through the factory equipped all-season Continentals and a set of Dunlop LTs. The van has Michelin Agilis tires now that have never touched snow because I store the vehicle for the winter now. Winter tires and 4WD most likely would have improved handling though but by how much, I don't know. Deep snow and slushy road conditions stiffened up the steering and accelerator linkages more often than I care to remember. Take your Westy to Hawaii, Mexico or Florida for the winter and drive it there...IMHO, it's not a winter vehicle. Roy Olynick '87 Westfalia GL (till death do us part) '91 Honda Civic SE '01 Honda Civic LX ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:53:04 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser In-Reply-To: <003301c16598$6b311e20$992dcfa9@chrisgei> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > Not necessarily an altitude thing either.... Once the compression gets > borderline, they start pretty hard even if the glow plugs work. You notice > it first toward the end of fall / beginning of winter. Then when the real > cold hits, there you sit unless you brought your long extension cord for the > block heater (BTDT). > Chris I was explaining to someone off-list, the compression is less and the blowby is more. The oil ends up in your air filter further reducing compression. As a matter of fact, I am going to post this on the list for those who may be concerned: > I'm p-mailing so I don't look stupid on the list... :^) Why not? everyone else does! > > Surely they don't sell different versions of diesel engines in different > states. No, they are the same. > So does this mean that an older, worn diesel will run at sea level, > but may not in the mountains? Yes, that is what it means. For a short trip it is not such a problem, but to expect a worn out diesel to perform the same all winter is too much. > Do you do a standard compression test before a mountain trip to verify > you'll make it? If you are driving over a pass you'll make it. The problem is cold starts at that high altitude. If you have an old engine, don't let it get completely cold before restarting it. > And are there ways other than a rebuild to gain high altitude capability? Yes. 1: Park on a long hill. You can go for years this way! 2: If your engine is really worn out, run without the air filter. This will give you more compression and prevent oil blowout from clogging it, which is the big problem even in summer. (noisier though!) 3: Give it a shot of ether prior to cranking, this is a pain in the ass in the Vanagon and not very safe for the engine. But what the hell, it is worn out anyway! 4: Preheat with a block heater. You must have a plug-in. See http://home.earthlink.net/~gnarlodious/Vanagon_Notes.html#preheater 5: Yours truly has even been known to put a can of sterno under the oil pan for an hour or so in really frigid weather, you can do this to diesel. Especially the Vanagon, it has the aluminum pan. With this toolbox of tricks you can buy a "needs rebuild" diesel CHEAP and drive it for 2 years before it really needs it. ('Course you might have to bore 40 over by that time!) Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:15:37 -0800 Reply-To: Don Hundt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Don Hundt Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: Gnarlodious MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One little thing, try a shot of wd 40 instead of ether. works about as well and won't destroy the glow plugs. Don ----- Original Message ----- From: Gnarlodious To: Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 5:53 PM Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! > > Not necessarily an altitude thing either.... Once the compression gets > > borderline, they start pretty hard even if the glow plugs work. You notice > > it first toward the end of fall / beginning of winter. Then when the real > > cold hits, there you sit unless you brought your long extension cord for the > > block heater (BTDT). > > Chris > > I was explaining to someone off-list, the compression is less and the blowby > is more. The oil ends up in your air filter further reducing compression. > > As a matter of fact, I am going to post this on the list for those who may > be concerned: > > > I'm p-mailing so I don't look stupid on the list... :^) > Why not? everyone else does! > > > > Surely they don't sell different versions of diesel engines in different > > states. > No, they are the same. > > So does this mean that an older, worn diesel will run at sea level, > > but may not in the mountains? > Yes, that is what it means. For a short trip it is not such a problem, but > to expect a worn out diesel to perform the same all winter is too much. > > Do you do a standard compression test before a mountain trip to verify > > you'll make it? > If you are driving over a pass you'll make it. The problem is cold starts at > that high altitude. If you have an old engine, don't let it get completely > cold before restarting it. > > And are there ways other than a rebuild to gain high altitude capability? > Yes. > 1: Park on a long hill. You can go for years this way! > 2: If your engine is really worn out, run without the air filter. This will > give you more compression and prevent oil blowout from clogging it, which is > the big problem even in summer. (noisier though!) > 3: Give it a shot of ether prior to cranking, this is a pain in the ass in > the Vanagon and not very safe for the engine. But what the hell, it is worn > out anyway! > 4: Preheat with a block heater. You must have a plug-in. See > http://home.earthlink.net/~gnarlodious/Vanagon_Notes.html#preheater > 5: Yours truly has even been known to put a can of sterno under the oil pan > for an hour or so in really frigid weather, you can do this to diesel. > Especially the Vanagon, it has the aluminum pan. > > With this toolbox of tricks you can buy a "needs rebuild" diesel CHEAP and > drive it for 2 years before it really needs it. ('Course you might have to > bore 40 over by that time!) > > > Rachel http://www.gnarlodious.com > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:25:09 EST Reply-To: JM060356@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Morgan Subject: Re: fan knob Comments: To: susanb@wizzards.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_d4.e617b4e.29175285_boundary" --part1_d4.e617b4e.29175285_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit the switch and or the knob is shot you may need to replace both minor p.i.t.a . --part1_d4.e617b4e.29175285_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit the switch and or the knob is shot  you may need to replace both minor  p.i.t.a . --part1_d4.e617b4e.29175285_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:31:11 EST Reply-To: JM060356@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Morgan Subject: (no subject) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_160.35763cc.291753ef_boundary" --part1_160.35763cc.291753ef_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am in need of help finding The paint code for my 86GL. there is NO sticker under the left dash. and v.w. has been less than helpful. Any ideas? --part1_160.35763cc.291753ef_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am in need of help finding The paint code for my
86GL. there is NO sticker under the left dash. and v.w. has been less than helpful. Any ideas?
--part1_160.35763cc.291753ef_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:44:01 -0800 Reply-To: George Wietor Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: George Wietor Subject: Re: (no subject) Comments: To: JM060356@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <160.35763cc.291753ef@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii try: 1) Duplicolor- \discount stores and auto parts chains may stock it. 2) an automotive paint specialist will have a color catalog and recipe book. Some also make up aerosol cans to order. 3)cultivate a friend in the auto body biz, or take a local trade school course with the panel beaters. bol. George and '87 Van O'(alpine)White --- Jim Morgan wrote: > I am in need of help finding The paint code for my > 86GL. there is NO sticker under the left dash. and > v.w. has been less than > helpful. Any ideas? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:03:52 -0600 Reply-To: "Filcoff, David M." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Filcoff, David M." Subject: Bad Vanagon News... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have some bad news, Saturday the Vanagon was wrecked. A car failed to yield while turning left. I hit them at about 35-40 mph, I'm ok besides a bruise from my pager and a stiff neck. I wish I could say the same about the Vanagon. The other driver was in an early 80s Caviler, unfortunately they were taken by ambulance to the hospital, however she didn't look too bad. The Vanagon is still drivable, but the frame is tweaked. The other car was a mess, it was towed away. I've posted some pictures of the Vanagon here: http://www.251.org/Images/87Vanagon/Wreck I am surprised at how well the Vanagon did in the accident, the damage is not as bad as I thought it was gong to be when I saw her car after I hit it. The damage is fairly well contained, but I am worried about the frame, the doors don't close as well as they did before, the passenger door scrapes the door sill. It drives just fine though, from driving it and sitting inside you can't tell anything happened. Dave 251.org 87 Vanagon, 180k and not doing too well 61 Bus, 79k and now the daily driver BTW on a better note I have a newly bead blasted and repainted set of 14" wheels with 205/70R14 Michelin Arctic Alpin snow tires. Iff all goes well and the Vanagon is back on the street by winter I should be set. I'll try to post pictures soon, they're painted Rustolium "Stainless Steel" color, very nice, close to stock color, slightly darker. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:38:45 EST Reply-To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Kweder Subject: Vanagon Stickers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_be.1d34990a.291763c5_boundary" --part1_be.1d34990a.291763c5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am wodnering if the Vanagon.com stickers are for sale and what perks come with them. Kevin '91 Vanagon Carat --part1_be.1d34990a.291763c5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am wodnering if the Vanagon.com stickers are for sale and what perks come with them.

Kevin
'91 Vanagon Carat
--part1_be.1d34990a.291763c5_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:44:13 -0600 Reply-To: Joachim Beek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joachim Beek Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers Comments: To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 22:38 11/04/2001 -0500, Kevin Kweder wrote: >I am wodnering if the Vanagon.com stickers are for sale and what perks >come with them. > >Kevin >'91 Vanagon Carat A 22-mph top speed increase and radar evading powers ;-) Joachim and Belinda and our fuzzballs Hobi, Lucky, and Leander, ...and our bridgekid Griffin, in Houston, TX beekj@ghg.net Dogs are our link to paradise. They don't know evil or jealousy or discontent. To sit with a dog on a hillside on a glorious afternoon is to be back in Eden, where doing nothing was not boring--it was peace. Milan Kundera ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:53:09 EST Reply-To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Kweder Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_16c.3690c0d.29176725_boundary" --part1_16c.3690c0d.29176725_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ha, 22 MPH I wish. It takes me about 2 minutes just to reach 22 MPH, which means I don't really need radar protection. I guess stupid questions get stupid answers, right? Kevin '91 Vanagon Carat --part1_16c.3690c0d.29176725_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ha, 22 MPH I wish.  It takes me about 2 minutes just to reach 22 MPH, which means I don't really need radar protection.  I guess stupid questions get stupid answers, right?

Kevin
'91 Vanagon Carat
--part1_16c.3690c0d.29176725_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:53:33 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All Vanagon owners (with stickers) who show up in Winnipeg this February, get an extra "Vanagon List" sticker for free, (only $5.00) courtesy of the local Vanagon group. This message also serves as notice of the "Festival de Voyager" Vanagon gathering this February here in Winnipeg. Hopefully, lots of you guys can make it up here for this extraordinary event - there'll be lots of choice camping spots available too! Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy "Iron Igloo" Aloha from Winnipeg! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joachim Beek" To: Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 09:44 PM Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers > At 22:38 11/04/2001 -0500, Kevin Kweder wrote: > >I am wodnering if the Vanagon.com stickers are for sale and what perks > >come with them. > > > >Kevin > >'91 Vanagon Carat > > A 22-mph top speed increase and radar evading powers ;-) > > > > Joachim and Belinda and our fuzzballs Hobi, Lucky, and Leander, > ...and our bridgekid Griffin, in Houston, TX > beekj@ghg.net > > Dogs are our link to paradise. They don't know > evil or jealousy or discontent. To sit with a > dog on a hillside on a glorious afternoon is to > be back in Eden, where doing nothing was not > boring--it was peace. Milan Kundera ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 23:05:52 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: (no subject) Comments: To: JM060356@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/4/01 9:32:02 PM, JM060356@AOL.COM writes: << I am in need of help finding The paint code for my 86GL. >> JM060356, Color analyzers are common devices with the paint crowd. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:10:40 -0800 Reply-To: Brent Christensen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brent Christensen Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers Comments: To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed You can get the sticker at http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sticker.html No special discounts at motels or anything - just pride in membership in a great community... :-) Brent Christensen '89 GL Syncro Westy Santa Barbara, CA >From: Kevin Kweder >Reply-To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Vanagon Stickers >Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:38:45 EST > >I am wodnering if the Vanagon.com stickers are for sale and what perks come >with them. > >Kevin >'91 Vanagon Carat > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:10:59 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: (no subject) Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Rico Sapolich 's message of Sun, 4 Nov 2001 23:05:52 EST Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Spectrometer's at better paint shop's are a common thing nowaday's too ! E-mail message << I am in need of help finding The paint code for my 86GL. >> JM060356, Color analyzers are common devices with the paint crowd. Rich ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile-(Clementine--(Morto) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:16:36 -0800 Reply-To: Robert Keezer Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Keezer Subject: Re: Bad Vanagon News... Comments: To: FilcoffD@MISSOURI.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Amazing-almost identical to the damage my 82 Westy sustained in a five car pile-up in '96. I had it fixed-the right front crash rail was also bent a little-but just like in your case-the other car was totally destroyed. The damaged part was cut out and a good clip was welded in. If it runs and drives staight that's good. Insurance company wants to total this because the body shop wants $4,000-shows you what they wanted to give for my 82 Westy with a 85 Wolfsburg interior and 1995 Golf engine, so I found someone to fix it for $2,200 cash. Robert K 1982 Westfalia >From: "Filcoff, David M." >Reply-To: "Filcoff, David M." >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Bad Vanagon News... >Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:03:52 -0600 > >I have some bad news, Saturday the Vanagon was wrecked. A car >failed to yield while turning left. I hit them at about 35-40 mph, I'm ok >besides a bruise from my pager and a stiff neck. I wish I could say the >same about the Vanagon. The other driver was in an early 80s Caviler, >unfortunately they were taken by ambulance to the hospital, however she >didn't look too bad. The Vanagon is still drivable, but the frame is >tweaked. The other car was a mess, it was towed away. > >I've posted some pictures of the Vanagon here: >http://www.251.org/Images/87Vanagon/Wreck > >I am surprised at how well the Vanagon did in the accident, the damage is >not as bad as I thought it was gong to be when I saw her car after I hit >it. The damage is fairly well contained, but I am worried about the >frame, the doors don't close as well as they did before, the passenger door >scrapes the door sill. It drives just fine though, from driving it and >sitting inside you can't tell anything happened. > >Dave >251.org >87 Vanagon, 180k and not doing too well >61 Bus, 79k and now the daily driver > >BTW on a better note I have a newly bead blasted and repainted set of 14" >wheels with 205/70R14 Michelin Arctic Alpin snow tires. Iff all goes well >and the Vanagon is back on the street by winter I should be set. I'll try >to post pictures soon, they're painted Rustolium "Stainless Steel" color, >very nice, close to stock color, slightly darker. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:19:14 -0800 Reply-To: Michael Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Snow Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since WD-40 now uses CO2 for propellant instead of propane, I wouldn't count on this to work. Mike Snow Don Hundt wrote: >One little thing, try a shot of wd 40 instead of ether. works about as well >and won't destroy the glow plugs. >Don > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:24:17 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers Comments: To: Brent Christensen In-Reply-To: Brent Christensen 's message of Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:10:40 -0800 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: Quoted-Printable MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Brent, Maybe no special discount's at motels, but the sand people at Wal-Mart, let you park in the handicapt spots with no questions asked. Later, Terry Brent=A0Christensen writes; No special discounts at motels or anything - just pride in membership in a great community... :-) Brent Christensen '89 GL Syncro Westy Santa Barbara, CA From: Kevin Kweder Reply-To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Vanagon Stickers Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:38:45 EST I am wodnering if the Vanagon.com stickers are for sale and what perks come with them. Kevin '91 Vanagon Carat ______________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 23:28:07 EST Reply-To: KevinKweder@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Kweder Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_9a.1c41595b.29176f57_boundary" --part1_9a.1c41595b.29176f57_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had heard about the Wal-Mart thing, thats why I asked, thanks. Kevin '91 Vanagon Carat --part1_9a.1c41595b.29176f57_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had heard about the Wal-Mart thing, thats why I asked, thanks.

Kevin
'91 Vanagon Carat
--part1_9a.1c41595b.29176f57_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 23:29:58 EST Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers Comments: To: KevinKweder@aol.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ever since I got my List Sticker I've had no trouble meeting young attractive young ladies. It's too bad they're all just soccer players looking for a ride to their next game. BenT ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:40:47 -0700 Reply-To: Gnarlodious Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gnarlodious Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: Michael Snow In-Reply-To: <3BE61342.7050807@home.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit You mean I can no longer use WD40 as an emergency blowtorch? Entity Michael Snow spoke thus: > Since WD-40 now uses CO2 for propellant instead of propane, I wouldn't > count on this to work. > > Mike Snow ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:45:55 -0600 Reply-To: Chris Smith Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Smith Subject: Re: The cat debacle or Schrodinger's Cat revisited Comments: To: Joel Walker In-Reply-To: <004101c1647d$ea132f60$4b4f0a3f@here> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed This is exactly what I was trying to describe with the 094 Tranny. How else can it work? Chris Smith Head Slave At 09:40 AM 11/3/01 -0600, Joel Walker wrote: >so, this Schrodinger ... is he the one that tied the buttered bread to >the back of his cat and threw the cat off the kitchen counter?? see, >that way, the cat tries to land on its feet, but the buttered bread >tries to land on the buttered side, and the cat/bread just sit there >spinning in mid-air ... virtual anti-gravity. :) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:19:00 -0800 Reply-To: Michael Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Snow Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: Gnarlodious MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't know if the oil will burn or not. We used to use WD-40 (with the can upside down) as HMMWV starting fluid as a matter of routine. The changed it a couple of years ago. The biggest tragedy is that I can no longer do simulated napalm runs on the ants invading my patio. Mike Snow Gnarlodious wrote: >You mean I can no longer use WD40 as an emergency blowtorch? > >Entity Michael Snow spoke thus: > >>Since WD-40 now uses CO2 for propellant instead of propane, I wouldn't >>count on this to work. >> >>Mike Snow >> > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:33:13 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: 91 Carat for sale in Bay Area Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I was in Southern Cal, now I'm in the Bay Area (SF). Its white, has 133,00 miles, runs everyday, even on holidays. What else could you ask for? I want 6,000 dollars but will consider trading it for a college education. If you're a terrorist then forget it. I'm selling my vanagon not my soul. Okay, some will disagree. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:03:59 -0800 Reply-To: Mike Williams Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mike Williams Subject: D-Backs take it home...A very merry Vanagon World Series MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Being from Boston...all I really hoped for was to see the Yankees lose...seeing as how my team couldn't beat the Yanks (it's all because of that damned curse), I'm glad someone else could. As I listened to the game outside the stadium in Phoenix (my new home) in the vanagon...I thought about how nice it would have been to be back home outside the green monster doing the same thing...but i settled. Both teams played an outstanding game...but in the end...i was glad to see the look on jeters face. driving through phoenix was a mob scene tonight also...people went wild...needless to say i waited a little while to start up the van. as the game got out i had a little fiesta in the vanagon with some good sausages...mmmm Mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 00:07:41 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: D-Backs take it home...A very merry Vanagon World Series Comments: To: Mike Williams In-Reply-To: Mike Williams 's message of Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:03:59 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit You wanted to see your team win? I been waiting for "Da Cubs" for years !!! At least your guys have been there within the last century !!:>) ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile-(Clementine--(Morto) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 00:51:17 -0600 Reply-To: Max Wellhouse Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Max Wellhouse Subject: Re: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling Comments: To: fty@CISCO.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don'y feel too bad, I've broken 3 BRAND NEW ADJUSTERS!! Very sick feeling when they all had to be ordered one at at time from the dealer. also wwhen they ask yo u why you need another, well you just admit to being Neanderthal at that point. BTW, the screw and the plastic ends as a unit is the only way to get them period. Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 7:40 AM Subject: plastic parts to hold-in and adjust headlights are crumbling > Ah, the joys of old cars .. > > Nearly all the platic parts that hold in and adjust the headlights are > crumbling on my '86. ETKA shows all the part #s (see below). Was wondering > if there was another source other than the dealer - checked Bus Depot's part > # lookup and it has none of them. It's also hard to tell if the part # > refers to the plastic bit *and* the screw, or just the screw. > > Anyone else has headlights that are falling out? Better check! > > cheers - Frank > > >From ETKA: > Position Part # Description Quan (total for both sides) > 8 255 941 133 adjusting piece 2 > 9 255 941 133 A adjusting piece 2 > 10 255 941 141 C adjusting piece 2 > 11 191 941 297 adapter with adjusting screw 2 > for vertical adjustment > 12 255 941 141 B adjusting screw 4 > > 9&12 are for the Hi-beam (smaller light) > 8,10,11 for the Lo-beam > > > \\\\////\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\ \\ > Frank Terhaar-Yonkers W4FTY TRA 8325/L2 > Cisco Systems, Inc. > NSITE - Pineview Building - RTP > 7025 Kit Creek Road PO Box 14987 > Research Triangle Park, North Carolina 27709 > fty@cisco.com voice(919)392-2101 fx(919)392-6927 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 22:26:19 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! In-Reply-To: <51.13ae9ac5.291728fb@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >In a message dated 11/4/01 4:26:48 PM, Gnarlodious@EARTHLINK.NET writes: > ><< and a month later when it >is cold the thing won't start, that is when you learn it needs a new engine > >> > >No, that's when it needs new glow plugs. Actually a really badly-worn diesel with good glows WILL become difficult to start from cold, as we found out with our Corona taxi. NOT altitude either... rings were gone, no compression, power down... had to cycle the glows repeatedly to get it REALLY hot, combined with LOTS of cranking... eventually it wouls start to fire but not well enough to run. further cycling/cranking and it would eventually, every time, fire up... blowing out a HUGE cloud of black soot before settling to run normally. You need a big high-density battery for this. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 22:26:19 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Bad Vanagon News... In-Reply-To: <44D2ED0AC0121146BF01366481060EBE0784639C@umc-mail02.missouri.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >The other driver was in an early 80s Caviler, >unfortunately they were taken by ambulance to the hospital, however she >didn't look too bad. The Vanagon is still drivable, but the frame is >tweaked. The other car was a mess, it was towed away. >I am surprised at how well the Vanagon did in the accident, the damage is >not as bad as I thought it was gong to be when I saw her car after I hit >it. The damage is fairly well contained, but I am worried about the >frame, the doors don't close as well as they did before, the passenger door >scrapes the door sill. It drives just fine though, from driving it and >sitting inside you can't tell anything happened. Vanagons are built STRONG and the list shows again and again that they survive accidents, even bad ones, extremely well, even being drivable afterward. Your doorframe should be repairable, but be careful to have a FULL rustproofing done, as the flexing caused by the impact will have cracked paint and filler in every seam in the body, even the rearmost. Go ahead and fix it... don't condemn an old friend to death! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 05:53:48 EST Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Condelli Subject: Re: How to rebuild power steering rack? Comments: cc: cchiang1@yahoo.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ac.1d4a03e2.2917c9bc_boundary" --part1_ac.1d4a03e2.2917c9bc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/2001 8:54:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > How to rebuild power steering rack? >=20 Cary, rebuild is quite easy. Just make sure you clean the rack well=20 before beginning so as not to get any dirt inside. The hardest part in goin= g=20 to be the removal of the locking devices that keep the cast end pieces on th= e=20 central tube. These can sometimes be a bear to remove. Remove all the=20 tubing connecting the two cast end pieces. Remove the output to the steerin= g=20 column. Remove the cover plate for the spring tensioner. Then remove the=20 locking devices by turning them counter clockwise to unscrew and loosen them= .=20 They are recessed down inside the cast aluminium end pieces and have two=20 notches, 180 degrees, apart. Support the rack in a bench vice and using a=20 drift begin tapping in the notch so that the locking device will turn. If i= t=20 does not begin to turn and excessive force need be applied STOP and heat up=20 the area with a propane torch and try again. If they look like they will no= t=20 come loose then STOP and send the unit away for exchange on an already=20 rebuilt one. If you damage the castings in removing these locking devices=20 then your casting is toast and good for garbage only ! AFTER you have these= =20 locking devices removed then you can begin to disassemble the ends and=20 replace the parts inside. Make note of where and which direction all the=20 parts are installed before removing anything. There are no diagrams anywher= e=20 to help if you get mixed up. Clean everything well and install the new part= s=20 from the kit and reassemble in the same manner in which you took it apart. =20 That's it that's all. Good luck ! =20 Peace=A0 Frank Condelli Almonte, Ontario, Canada BusFusion a VW C= amper camping event, Almonte, ON, May 30, 31, June 1, 2, 2002 '87 Westy & Lionel Trains Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club=20 Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0 Frank Condelli & Asso= ciates or http://frankcondelli.com =20 --part1_ac.1d4a03e2.2917c9bc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/2001 8:54:06 PM Eastern Standard Tim= e, LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:


How to rebuild power steering r= ack?

       Cary, rebuild is quite easy.  Just= make sure you clean the rack well before beginning so as not to get any dir= t inside.  The hardest part in going to be the removal of the locking d= evices that keep the cast end pieces on the central tube.  These can so= metimes be a bear to remove.  Remove all the tubing connecting the two=20= cast end pieces.  Remove the output to the steering column.  Remov= e the cover plate for the spring tensioner. Then remove the locking devices=20= by turning them counter clockwise to unscrew and loosen them.  They are= recessed down inside the cast aluminium end pieces and have two notches, 18= 0 degrees, apart.  Support the rack in a bench vice and using a drift b= egin tapping in the notch so that the locking device will turn.  If it=20= does not begin to turn and excessive force need be applied STOP and heat up=20= the area with a propane torch and try again.  If they look like they wi= ll not come loose then STOP and send the unit away for exchange on an alread= y rebuilt one.  If you damage the castings in removing these locking de= vices then your casting is toast and good for garbage only !  AFTER you= have these locking devices removed then you can begin to disassemble the en= ds and replace the parts inside.  Make note of where and which directio= n all the parts are installed before removing anything.  There are no d= iagrams anywhere to help if you get mixed up.  Clean everything well an= d install the new parts from the kit and reassemble in the same manner in wh= ich you took it apart.  That's it that's all.  Good luck ! &n= bsp;  

Peace=A0

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
BusFusion a VW C= amper camping event, Almonte, ON, May 30, 31, June 1, 2, 2002
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains
Member: Vanagon List, LiMBO, IWCCC & Capital City VW Club
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
STEBRO/Vanagon Stainless= Steel Mufflers =A0
Frank Condelli &=20= Associates or http://frankcondelli.com

--part1_ac.1d4a03e2.2917c9bc_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:26:28 EST Reply-To: JM060356@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Morgan Subject: Re: finding the color code Comments: To: JordanVw@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary" --part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit duh! I am sorry for the slip up.(new to the list) The van is a champagne beige according to my wife. I am color blind so matching the color will be loads of fun --part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit duh!  I am sorry for the slip up.(new to the list) The van is a champagne beige according to my wife. I am color blind so matching the color will be loads of fun --part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 07:29:28 -0600 Reply-To: Terry Kay Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Terry Kay Subject: Re: finding the color code Comments: To: JM060356@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: Jim Morgan 's message of Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:26:28 EST MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit JIm, If you don't have the color code, go to, or call your local automotive paint supplier, and they have books on the paint codes--- They should be able to help you--- Later, ______________ |[ ] [ ] [ ]\ | | | | ~~~ ~||-(())----(())-| Terry-- 74 Campmobile-(Clementine--(Morto) 85 GL- (Delilah) 86 BMW 325 ES- (Eva) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "In life, it is much better to want something you cannot have--- Than to have something you can't get rid of" (T.K.) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:55:54 -0500 Reply-To: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" Subject: VW Paint Codes Content-Transfer-Encoding: Quoted-Printable MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Vanagon.com (http://www.vanagon.com/info/years/1986/index.html) lists the following colors for 1986 Vanagons: Pastel White Merian Brown Savanah Beige Metalic Marine Blue Flash Silver Metalic Dove Blue Metalic Bronze Beige Metalic Red Metalic Wolfram Grey Metalic Your van is probably Savannah Beige Metallic (LH1V) or Bronze Metallic (LH8U) VW paint codes from 1979 to 1996 are available at: http://www.gti16v.org/vwcolors.htm I have used Color-Rite (www.color-rite.com) for touch-up paint and was very satisfied with the product. They have any sto= ck color in a variety of quantities from touch-up pens to gallons. Tim Hannink Winter Park, Florida Goldibox - 1987 Wolfsburg Edition Westfalia Camper http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:08:40 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Rebuilding a steering rack for an 81 vanagon Comments: To: puzerewski@MSN.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f6.11c80522.2917f768_boundary" --part1_f6.11c80522.2917f768_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/4/2001 7:45:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, puzerewski@MSN.COM writes: > Volks, > I have replaced everything in the front end ofmy 81 (the brick) and when I > go over a bump in the road, etc., there is a hell of a rattle under the > front end and i feel it in my steering.......thus i feel it may be the rack. > > I see bus depot has a repair kit for $89.99 vs. $300 plus for a newly > rebuilt unit. I have had one of these off the car before, and it does not > look all that complex.....my question is, what would said kit/rebuild > entail? > Adam, here are some things to consider. The $89.99 kit is actually for a power steering rack (I don't thing there is a kit for the manual rack, at least I have never heard of one). So you have a manual rack in your '81 right? So rebuilding it is probably out of the question unless you want to take it apart and then do some fabrication. I have new manual racks (ZF) for $300 if you wanted one of those. Another thing to check would be to check the rack bushings. Many times these are worn out and cause some play in the rack. Just jack up the front end on both sides and while you are looking at the rack, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth. If you see the whole rack moving then it is time for new bushings. These are only $6 each (4 per rack) and can be easily removed and installed with the rack still in the car. I hope this helps you. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_f6.11c80522.2917f768_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/4/2001 7:45:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, puzerewski@MSN.COM writes:


Volks,
I have replaced everything in the front end ofmy 81 (the brick) and when I
go over a bump in the road, etc., there is a hell of a rattle under the
front end and i feel it in my steering.......thus i feel it may be the rack.

I see bus depot has a repair kit for $89.99 vs. $300 plus for a newly
rebuilt unit.  I have had one of these off the car before, and it does not
look all that complex.....my question is, what would said kit/rebuild
entail?


Adam, here are some things to consider.  The $89.99 kit is actually for a power steering rack (I don't thing there is a kit for the manual rack, at least I have never heard of one).  So you have a manual rack in your '81 right?  So rebuilding it is probably out of the question unless you want to take it apart and then do some fabrication.  I have new manual racks (ZF) for $300 if you wanted one of those.  Another thing to check would be to check the rack bushings.  Many times these are worn out and cause some play in the rack.  Just jack up the front end on both sides and while you are looking at the rack, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth.  If you see the whole rack moving then it is time for new bushings.  These are only $6 each (4 per rack) and can be easily removed and installed with the rack still in the car.  I hope this helps you.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
--part1_f6.11c80522.2917f768_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:46:50 -0600 Reply-To: Chris Stann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Stann Subject: OIL LEAK HELP! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm posting this for a friend who has an '89 Westy with 2.1L WBX. It's his only means of transportation. I was able to locate the source of the leak. It appeared to be coming from behind the square metal 'box' that the oil filter attaches to. To be precise, it appears to be coming from where that 'box' mates to the engine block. Has any one experienced this? Easy fix? Just a gasket? How? HELP!!! Thanks, Chris for Pete. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 05:10:37 -1000 Reply-To: Andrew M Fox Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew M Fox Subject: Re: OIL LEAK HELP! Comments: To: Chris Stann In-Reply-To: MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Sounds like the oil cooler seal may have failed. This part is prone to failure in our vans, especially in colder weather. In fact there was a recall about this in Canada but not in the U.S. (bastards!) Thankfully the fix is easy: -buy the seal from list vendor -remove oil filter -remove the threaded pipe that goes thru the oil cooler -replace seal, make sure to get all of old seal out Searchthe list archives for "oil cooler seal" for more info. Andrew Fox 86 Westy Ft. Collins CO www2.hawaii.edu/~andrewf/vanagon/links.htm On Mon, 5 Nov 2001, Chris Stann wrote: > I'm posting this for a friend who has an '89 Westy with 2.1L WBX. It's his > only means of transportation. > > I was able to locate the source of the leak. It appeared to be coming from > behind the square metal 'box' that the oil filter attaches to. To be > precise, it appears to be coming from where that 'box' mates to the engine > block. > > Has any one experienced this? Easy fix? Just a gasket? How? HELP!!! > > Thanks, > > Chris for Pete. > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:17:33 -0500 Reply-To: fty@CISCO.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: fty@CISCO.COM Subject: Re: finding the color code Comments: To: JM060356@AOL.COM The paint code is on a white sticker just below the fuse panel. cheers - Frank In reference to the message from: JM060356@AOL.COM >duh! I am sorry for the slip up.(new to the list) The van is a champagne >beige according to my wife. I am color blind so matching the color will be >loads of fun > >--part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary >Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >duh!  I am sorry for the slip up.(new to the list) The van is a champagne beige according to my wife. I am color blind so matching the color will be loads of fun > >--part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary-- > \\\\////\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\ Frank Terhaar-Yonkers W4FTY TRA 8325/L2 Cisco Systems, Inc. NSITE - Pineview Building - RTP 7025 Kit Creek Road PO Box 14987 Research Triangle Park, North Carolina 27709 fty@cisco.com voice(919)392-2101 fx(919)392-6927 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:47:31 EST Reply-To: M4e4l9@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mel Stireman Subject: Re: Bad Vanagon News... Comments: To: FilcoffD@missouri.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave Glad to hear you are fine. Sorry to hear about your Vanagon . 82 Westy Air "Ely Van Blau" Mel ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:13:17 GMT Reply-To: dmc@CYBURBAN.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave M Subject: Cigarette lighter socket standard? Is the cigarette lighter socket on Vanagon's a standard size? The reason I ask is that I bought a plug-in fan thingy to help cool me down. In the Vanagon it fit very loosely, flopped around, and would not stay secure. In my Mercury Sable it fit snugly and works fine. - david ('87 Wolfsburg) --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. This service is provided by Cyburban LINK. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:23:40 -0500 Reply-To: wb6otg Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: wb6otg Subject: '84 Westy interior touch up paint Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Any idea where I can get touch up paint for the (tan) interior (cabinet door) of an '84 westy? Bill ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:34:25 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter socket standard? Comments: To: dmc@CYBURBAN.COM In-Reply-To: <200111051558.fA5FwPV13141@mail.lanline.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 11:13 AM 11/5/2001, Dave M wrote: >Is the cigarette lighter socket on Vanagon's a standard size? >The reason I ask is that I bought a plug-in fan thingy to help cool me down. >In the Vanagon it fit very loosely, flopped around, and would not stay secure. >In my Mercury Sable it fit snugly and works fine. Well there you have it. It's a standard size all right -- VW standard, one of two they use. The other one is smaller. arrrggghhhhh.... david David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:53:31 -0600 Reply-To: "Cookson, Noel" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Cookson, Noel" Subject: #1 cylinder header pipe gasket burning out MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi, I have a recurring problem with the gasket for the #1 cylinder header pipe. This gasket fails after running the car at highway speeds for an hour or more. Around town use has not caused a problem. I have replaced this gasket twice now and even doubled it up to try to accommodate any warping that might occur as things heat up. Has anyone else seen this problem? Is there another/better gasket I should look for? Noel 88 GL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 12:02:31 -0500 Reply-To: Gary Stearns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary Stearns Subject: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Boundary_(ID_vQb3ZuQuPMV0fPLkiBd63Q)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_vQb3ZuQuPMV0fPLkiBd63Q) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hi- Our '88 will need new tires soon. Currently we run Michelin Energy 205/70x15 VR 95 on 15x7 wheels. The idea of the VR speed rating and the 95 load rating was to add strength. I've never had any reason to doubt the safety of these tires, but they do have one big tradeoff. When inflated hard enough to handle well, they ride very hard. Cracks and expansion joints hammer the body as if it were on skateboard wheels. When inflated soft enough to ride acceptably, they squirm all over and actually let the van bounce up and down. Our van does have slightly stiffer springs and Bilsteins, but all of the bushings at both ends were just replaced (by me, talk about a big miserable job!), so suspension shouldn't be contributing to rough ride. By comparison, I also have a '92 Jetta GLi. Lowered higher rate springs, Bilstein Sports, and plastic suspension bushings...and much lower tire pressures. It rides much better over the rough stuff. Could LT tires do a better job? I've always had the feeling that LT tires couldn't ride well 'cause they're truck tires. Is there something about the construction of LT tires that allows higher inflation pressures and load handling but not the jarring ride? Is there some typical difference in construction between LT and passenger tires that gives LT tires that higher load capacity while not destroying the ride? Can LT tires also handle well? Thanks Gary --Boundary_(ID_vQb3ZuQuPMV0fPLkiBd63Q) Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Hi-
Our '88 will need new tires soon.  Currently we run Michelin Energy 205/70x15 VR 95 on 15x7 wheels.  The idea of the VR speed rating and the 95 load rating was to add strength.  I've never had any reason to doubt the safety of these tires, but they do have one big tradeoff.  When inflated hard enough to handle well, they ride very hard.  Cracks and expansion joints hammer the body as if it were on skateboard wheels.  When inflated soft enough to ride acceptably, they squirm all over and actually let the van bounce up and down.  Our van does have slightly stiffer springs and Bilsteins, but all of the bushings at both ends were just replaced (by me, talk about a big miserable job!), so suspension shouldn't be contributing to rough ride. By comparison, I also have a '92 Jetta GLi.  Lowered higher rate springs, Bilstein Sports, and plastic suspension bushings...and much lower tire pressures.  It rides much better over the rough stuff. 
 
Could LT tires do a better job?  I've always had the feeling that LT tires couldn't ride well 'cause they're truck tires.  Is there something about the construction of LT tires that allows higher inflation pressures and load handling but not the jarring ride?   Is there some typical difference in construction between LT and passenger tires that gives LT tires that higher load capacity while not destroying the ride?  Can LT tires also handle well?
 
Thanks
 
Gary
--Boundary_(ID_vQb3ZuQuPMV0fPLkiBd63Q)-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:59:57 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: #1 cylinder header pipe gasket burning out Comments: To: "Cookson, Noel" In-Reply-To: <6F2719D5300C624BBC5F69424EC0C2060169F581@celox-stl-ems2.celoxnetworks.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII what type of gasket are you using? You can get what looks like the right gasket for the exhaust pipe that is actually for a carb... same size same shape, but the carb gasket is made out of paper-like material, where and exhaust gasket is made out of two piece of stamped metal with some mystery material between them. I made the mistake once of using the wrong gasket material. -good luck -Matthew Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 On Mon, 5 Nov 2001, Cookson, Noel wrote: > Hi, > > I have a recurring problem with the gasket for the #1 cylinder header pipe. > This gasket fails after running the car at highway speeds for an hour or > more. Around town use has not caused a problem. > > I have replaced this gasket twice now and even doubled it up to try to > accommodate any warping that might occur as things heat up. Has anyone else > seen this problem? Is there another/better gasket I should look for? > > Noel > > 88 GL > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:00:51 -0800 Reply-To: gary hradek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: gary hradek Subject: waterpump relacement parts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I am replacing the waterpump om my 87 westy. Below are a list of parts I am planning on replacing while downunder. Have I missed anything that might be a good idea to replace while I am doing this work? Is there a gasket between the pipe that comes from the right head and the waterpump? thanks gary 1 $49.95 025 121 010C Water Pump, New, Genuine German, includes gasket/o-ring 1 $2.95 025 121 058D Hose, Oil Cooler-Thermostat Hsng, 2.1L Vanagon 1 $2.95 025 121 058G Hose, Oil Cooler-Pipe from Water Pump, 2.1L Vanagon 1 $4.95 025 121 058H Hose, Expan Tank-Pipe 'T', 86-91 Vanagon 1 $4.95 025 121 058J Hose, Oil Cooler Pipe to wtr pmp 2.1L 1 $5.95 025 121 108D Hose, Water Pump Pipe-Expan tank 2.1L Vanagon 1 $24.95 025 121 403 Coolant Expansion Tank, With Flat Side, Vanagon 1 $7.95 N 901 287 03 Cooling System Hose, 1.9L & 2.1L Vanagon 1 $1.19 N 901 685 02 gasket, water pump __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:01:25 -0800 Reply-To: Lori Coyle Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Lori Coyle Subject: stove knobs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi! My van was recently broken into and one, not both, but just one of my stove knobs was stolen. Does anyone know where I can find a brown one, new or used, for a 84 camper? I have already tried the Bus Depot, but they no longer carry them. Thanks, Lori __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:11:37 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: stove knobs Comments: To: Lori Coyle In-Reply-To: <20011105170125.40448.qmail@web10508.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII www.gowesty.com carries the knobs. =m Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:22:06 -0800 Reply-To: "M.R. Nimmo" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "M.R. Nimmo" Subject: Zamboni engines at Boston Bob's Comments: To: vanagon@vanagon.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I'm browsing Bob's engine selections and notice new 1800 cc watercooled zamboni engines. Hmmmmmm. I assume these are industrial versions of the Golf engine. Anyone bolted one of these to a KEP adapter or Diesel flywheel? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:22:45 -0700 Reply-To: Zoran Mladen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoran Mladen Subject: Re: #1 cylinder header pipe gasket burning out Comments: To: "Cookson, Noel" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Quite likely your surfaces are not flat. If the pipe lays flat against the head, the gasket will hold tight. However, if they do not lie flat, one side will be tight against the head and the other will be a bit loose, but not enough that you could easily see it. Under the higher pressures of high RPMs, this gap will be exploited until it fails. Likewise, you could simply have a low spot on the surface of the pipe. When you next replace the gasket, file the pipe flat first, and scrape and smooth the head surface as well. Z -----Original Message----- From: Cookson, Noel [mailto:ncookson@CELOXNETWORKS.COM] Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:54 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: #1 cylinder header pipe gasket burning out Hi, I have a recurring problem with the gasket for the #1 cylinder header pipe. This gasket fails after running the car at highway speeds for an hour or more. Around town use has not caused a problem. I have replaced this gasket twice now and even doubled it up to try to accommodate any warping that might occur as things heat up. Has anyone else seen this problem? Is there another/better gasket I should look for? Noel 88 GL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:11:14 -0800 Reply-To: Brady Ferguson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Brady Ferguson Subject: High Altitude Issues?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01C165D9.D1A366E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C165D9.D1A366E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm a new Vanagon owner in the SF Bay Area... interested in taking my = vanagon to Tahoe on occasion, and even thinking about moving there. = What issues at 7000-8000 feet should I expect? =20 Thanks in advance for any advice or personal experiences you might = share. Brady ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C165D9.D1A366E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'm a new Vanagon owner in the SF Bay=20 Area...   interested in taking my vanagon to Tahoe on = occasion, and=20 even thinking about moving there.  What issues at 7000-8000 feet = should I=20 expect? 
 
Thanks in advance for any advice or = personal=20 experiences you might share.
 
Brady
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C165D9.D1A366E0-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:49:51 -0800 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: Re: removing pilot bearing??? Comments: To: swright@SLS.BC.CA Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I got mine out this weekend using the washer method. I trimmed the washer with the trusty Dremel cutoff wheel. The washer bent but held during the bearing extraction process. Thanks Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '01 Xootr Scooter >From: Shawn Wright >Reply-To: Shawn Wright >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: removing pilot bearing??? >Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:22:20 -0800 > >I used a small bolt with a washer slid over it that just fit inside >the bearing, inserted the bolt head first into the bearing. Shift it >sideways to catch the edge of the bearing, then with another >washer and nut, tighten the nut until it pulls against the end of >the crank. > >Of course, it helped that the needles in my bearing were >destroyed, leaving lots of room to insert the washer. You may >be able to yank the needles out with a screwdriver to allow >more room to work inside the bearing. > > >On 29 Oct 2001 at 10:08, Matthew Pollard wrote: > >Date sent: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:08:19 -0800 >Send reply to: Matthew Pollard >From: Matthew Pollard >Subject: removing pilot bearing??? >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > > How do you remove the pilot bearing? I've tried the socket & greese > > technique w/ no luck. > > > > Matthew > > > > Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death > > Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" > > University of Idaho > > www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 > >======================== >Shawn Wright >Computer Systems Manager >Shawnigan Lake School >http://www.sls.bc.ca >swright@sls.bc.ca _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:04:40 EST Reply-To: Galoobs@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mike Galoob Subject: Re: High Altitude Issues?? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You shouldn't have any trouble going UP in altitude other than a slight decrease in power. I bought my 81 westy in Flagstaff, AZ (~7000') where it ran great. Upon moving to sea level in Rhode Island it ran terrible until I upped the octane of the gas. It ran fine on 86 at high elevation but takes at least 89 at sea level. Mike Galoob 81 westy 88 Subaru GL-10 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:18:04 -0500 Reply-To: wb6otg Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: wb6otg Subject: Re: stove knobs Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii http://www.gowesty.com ---------------------------------------------- Hi! My van was recently broken into and one, not both, but just one of my stove knobs was stolen. Does anyone know where I can find a brown one, new or used, for a 84 camper? I have already tried the Bus Depot, but they no longer carry them. Thanks, Lori ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:20:09 -0800 Reply-To: Robert Dalton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Dalton Subject: Re: FS 82 Diesel Vanagon Camper IE oops oil filter Comments: To: Tim In-Reply-To: <016c01c16371$428bd880$5562e9d1@pacbell.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Where do you get your AC oil filters (960s) for diesels? They used to be available for a few bucks at discount stores, but you never see them anymore. Rob 82 diesel Westy __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:22:48 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: Best Way To Get Factory Parts From The Dealer In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20011102122347.02cf3210@pop.rcn.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > So far as I know, both Rennie and Camelback are sources of factory parts. > If you would like to place European parts orders, then you can also ask me for > a price quote as I can usually beat USA prices by a European VAG factory parts > importing system I set up to help list members. As a result of this system, > Before using this system, however, check with Bus Depot (www.busdepot.com) > to see if they have a method to obtain OEM parts through aftermarket sources because this > will be cheaper still. We obtain "genuine VW" or OEM parts from a number of sources, opting of course for the cheapest alternative for like quality. In some cases, we can obtain the part directly from the OEM supplier to VW, rather than via the VW distribution chain. This is what Derek was referring to above. In such cases, the price may be as much as 90% cheaper than the dealer charges. Sometimes we will have such a part even if other suppliers do not, because while the part may not be available in the U.S. directly from the OEM source, it may be available overseas that way, so we import it directly. In some cases, where no direct OEM source is available here or abroad, we import the genuine VW part from Europe, South America, or South Africa, rather than via VW's U.S. distribution. Generally we will do this if the part is either cheaper overseas, or no longer available here. For example I get some coolant hoses that way, because the same VW hose can be 30% cheaper in Germany than here. However, other VW hoses cost more there, even though they are also German made. Go figure. As a last resort, we order the part from VW of America. This typically results in a discount of about 10% off of the dealer's retail price. However, by the time you add shipping costs, it may eat up much of that savings, particularly on an inexpensive part. We get only a small portion of our parts this way. Most of them we can get from one of the other sources mentioned above, so the savings are typically much higher. If you can't find the part you're looking for using the drop-down menus on our website (for vehicle type and part type), you can try searching the website by keyword or part number. Try this last, as it is not as reliable as using the drop-down menus due to potential variations in the part number. Examples are cases where two different part numbers are interchangeable. We may have the part under one number, while the dealer has it under another. So if you merely search by part number you may think we don't have it, and end up paying a lot more elsewhere. Best is to start with the drop-down menus, then try the search by keyword or part number, and if all else fails, email sales@busdepot.com or call customer service at 1-215-234-VWVW if you just want to make sure. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:27:44 -0800 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: Diesel Oil Pressure Specs Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Does anyone know off the top of your head what the specs are for a diesel's oil pressure? Hot and Cold? Thanks Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '01 Xootr Scooter _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:29:55 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: Replacement Expansion Tank '82 Diesel Comments: To: Bill Nienhuis In-Reply-To: <001201c163cf$bbe1ebd0$160aa8c0@lrscorp.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I'm looking for a replacement coolant expansion tank, part number 068 121 405B. > It's for a 1982 Diesel Vanagon. I've checked the usual places, busboys, busdepot, > vanagain - but nothing yet. I'm desperate. VW has discontinued this tank. I have been searching for some in Europe but so far no luck. I understand that the later Diesel version, the 405D (which is still available), can be substituted if you change a couple of hoses. I seem to recall some mention of this on the list once. You might check the list archives or ask your local dealer. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:34:44 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: Oil Filter Question In-Reply-To: <3BE2872D.24480.35AB3C5D@localhost> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Motomaster are FRAM filters, and the motomaster supreme are > the fancy FRAM filters. Neither of these are very highly regarded > for poor pressure relief & anti-drainback valves and low filtering > surface area compared to Bosch/Mann/VW filters. > I have also experienced lower hot oil pressure conditions on > several VWs when using FRAM/Motomaster filters compared with > Bosch/VW (with pressure gauge). It might be worth noting here that the Bosch filters sold in the U.S. are NOT the same as the Bosch filters sold in many other parts of the world. In many countries Bosch sells a German made, OE quality filter for the Vanagon. But in the U.S., they simply re-label a non-OEM U.S. made filter and sell it as a Bosch. For this reason, I ship only Mann and Mahle, which are both the correct OEM filters with the correct anti-drainback valve. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:39:09 -0400 Reply-To: Malcolm Stebbins Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Malcolm Stebbins Organization: Mount Saint Vincent University Subject: Re: '84 Westy interior touch up paint Comments: To: wb6otg In-Reply-To: <200111051123.AA1922760956@intrex.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I used "Melmine" or Melmack" (or some such name) that I got form Canadian Tire. It was reputed to be tough paint. I took a door in to have the paint "computer matched", they got close but I had to fiddle with the colour to get it right (gray in my case). Be sure to wash and prep the surface if you want the paint to "stick". I used a foam mini-roller for the applications. Also, I found that "Majik" or "Majic" shoe paint works very well, and it's in spray cans. Its tough and takes some bending on rubber/plastic parts. These come in many colours. Try your local shoe repair shop. Good luck. Malcolm On 5 Nov 2001, at 11:23, wb6otg wrote: > Any idea where I can get touch up paint for the (tan) > interior (cabinet door) of an '84 westy? > > Bill ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:10:45 -0600 Reply-To: Dart 330 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dart 330 Subject: fixing rear heater Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Well since it is getting colder I am trying to fix my rear heater leak, I plan on draining and filling the coolant so I need to fix this first anyways. I have ordered a new bleeder screw and washer and the new T-piece for the feed hose. They say to use the new improved T-piece with flow restrictor and remove the flow restrictor from inlet fitting of heater valve. Is this flow restrictor easy to remove once the hose is off? and do I need to order another T-piece for the return hose? And am I right to think that after replacing these if it still leaks then the only thing left to replace is the heater core itself? Thanks, Nathan 85 Westy 74 Bus _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:40:58 -0800 Reply-To: Warren Chapman Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Warren Chapman Subject: Vanagon Heating -Vented Propand Furnaces Comments: To: rcharrette@HOTMAIL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01C165DD.F951CCF0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C165DD.F951CCF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It's that time of year again and I haven't even yet finished installed = the front AC in my Syncro Westy. Time to think of HEAT!. I have researched this topic also for the last two winters. Here's = what I'm currently considering. There are a couple of European gas = furnaces (Propex and Truma) but they are extremely expensive and hard to = get and they don't seem to put out enough heat for really cold climates. There are two small vented propane RV furnaces made in the US that seem = a good fit (size wise) into a vanagon and they are available from = 12,0000 -20000 BTU sizes which should heat a Vanagon quite well. . I = have seen a couple of them installed. One is made by Atwood (aka Hydro-Flame). Model is called the "Everest = Star". The sell new for around $425 but you can get one from an RV = salvage yard for $200-$250. TIK I think one could be fitted nicely into = the little square cabinet area close to the floor, to the left of the = Westy fridge. The other compact furnace is made by Suburban which is well known in the = RV world and they also make the furnace that is currently used in the = Eurovan Camper. I owned one of these campers for a while and the = furnace was the nicest feature of the van. =20 Suburban makes a model called the "NT" series which is very = compact---only about 9.5" square. Seems like it would also fit in the = same location mentioned above for the Hydro-Flame. Prices for these are = about the same reatial, but there's a dealer that sells them on eBay for = about $325. Both models can be controlled by a thermostat,---just like at home. = Wonderful on cold mornings or arriving to a cold campground late at = night. Just turn the switch, set your temp and forget it. You may = need an extra propane tank for long camping trips though. Both of these heaters must be installed perpendicular to the outer wall = of the van and therefore somewhere on the cabinet side. The vent pipe = must go straight to the outside of the van with no bends. They cannot = be mounted under the seat like the European heaters with a vent that = bends 90 degrees to reach the outside wall of the van.=20 Here's a useful link with pictures and sizes for both furnaces: http://www.marksrv.com/furnace.htm I have not yet installed either of them, but I have seen the Atwood = (Hydro-Flame) model installed in a couple of Country Homes (non Westy) = camper conversions. =20 ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C165DD.F951CCF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It's that time of year again and I = haven't even yet=20 finished installed the front AC in my Syncro Westy.  Time to think = of=20 HEAT!.
 
I have researched this = topic also for the=20 last two winters.   Here's what I'm currently = considering.  There=20 are a couple of European gas furnaces (Propex and Truma) but they are = extremely=20 expensive and hard to get and they don't seem to put out enough heat for = really=20 cold climates.
 
There are two small vented propane RV = furnaces made=20 in the US that seem a good fit  (size wise) into a vanagon and = they=20 are available from 12,0000 -20000 BTU sizes which should heat a Vanagon = quite=20 well.  .  I have seen a couple of them installed.
 
One is made by Atwood (aka = Hydro-Flame). =20 Model is called the "Everest Star".  The sell new for around $425 = but you=20 can get one from an RV salvage yard for $200-$250.  TIK I think one = could=20 be fitted nicely into the little square cabinet area close to the = floor, to=20 the left of the Westy fridge.
 
The other compact furnace is made by = Suburban which=20 is well known in the RV world and they also make the furnace that is = currently=20 used in the Eurovan Camper.  I owned one of these campers for a = while and=20 the furnace was the nicest feature of the van. 
Suburban makes a model called the "NT" = series which=20 is very compact---only about 9.5" square.   Seems like it = would also=20 fit in the same location mentioned above for the Hydro-Flame.  = Prices for=20 these are about the same reatial, but there's a dealer that sells them = on eBay=20 for about $325.
 
Both models can be controlled by a=20 thermostat,---just like at home.  Wonderful on cold mornings or = arriving to=20 a cold campground late at night.  Just turn the switch, set your = temp and=20 forget it.   You may need an extra propane tank for long = camping trips=20 though.
 
Both of these heaters must be installed = perpendicular to the outer wall of the van and therefore somewhere on = the=20 cabinet side.  The vent pipe must go straight to the outside of the = van=20 with no bends.  They cannot be mounted under the seat like the = European=20 heaters with a vent that bends 90 degrees to reach the outside wall of = the van.=20
 
Here's a useful link with pictures and = sizes for=20 both furnaces:
 
http://www.marksrv.com/furnac= e.htm
 
I have not yet installed either of = them, but I have=20 seen the Atwood (Hydro-Flame) model installed in a couple of Country = Homes (non=20 Westy) camper conversions. 
 
 
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C165DD.F951CCF0-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:31:08 -0500 Reply-To: Warren Chapman Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Warren Chapman Subject: Re: Vanagon Heating -Vented Propand Furnaces Sorry about typos; that's Vented Propane Furnaces. and Sizes are from 12K-20K BTU. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:34:00 EST Reply-To: OuiSki1@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Scott Kraning Subject: Passenger window rolls up HARD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All- Anybody have any thoughts on what causes the front windows to roll up so hard? I feel like I am about to break the plastic crank sometimes on my pass. side, and I am just wondering if there is a certain way to go about adjusting/ fixing this. Thanks! Scott 88 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:39:12 -0800 Reply-To: Steve Hoge Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Hoge Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter socket standard MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Dave M wrote: >In the Vanagon it fit very loosely, flopped around, >and would not stay secure Wow, I thought it was just mine. I've tried a couple of lighter socket accessories in my '89 dashboard and they never fit snugly, worked intermittently, fell out, etc. Any hints for retrofitting a "real" socket? -Steve ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:35:26 -0500 Reply-To: arbosch@RA.ROCKWELL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Alan Bosch Subject: Any Audi 100 Fans...? (MVC) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=_alternative 006B9AE685256AFB_=" This is a multipart message in MIME format. --=_alternative 006B9AE685256AFB_= Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Anyone on the list a fan of the Audi 100? Is there an Audi list? The reason I'm asking is that I've been informed this morning that a customer of mine is requesting my presence at their manufacturing facility two days a week. It'd be a sixty mile trip each way, mostly thru the great Upstate NY lake effect snow belt. My bus (required Vanagon content) just isn't the right vehicle for the task - in terms related to weather and mileage. Sorry for the waste of bandwidth but I don't know where else to ask... Alan Bosch & Phred ('88 Wolfsburg) --=_alternative 006B9AE685256AFB_= Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Anyone on the list a fan of the Audi 100?  Is there an Audi list?  The reason I'm asking is that I've been informed this morning that a customer of mine is requesting my presence at their manufacturing facility two days a week.  It'd be a sixty mile trip each way, mostly thru the great Upstate NY lake effect snow belt.  My bus (required Vanagon content) just isn't the right vehicle for the task - in terms related to weather and mileage.

Sorry for the waste of bandwidth but I don't know where else to ask...

Alan Bosch
& Phred ('88 Wolfsburg) --=_alternative 006B9AE685256AFB_=-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:48:40 -0800 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: Re: Any Audi 100 Fans...? (MVC) Comments: To: arbosch@RA.ROCKWELL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Bulletproof engine, window lifts and misc. electrics can go bad. As I recall, the A/C computer breaks and is expensive. Galvanized body, resists rust VERY well. Great car for the specified task. Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '72 Motobecane Mobylette Moped '01 Xootr Scooter >From: Alan Bosch >Reply-To: arbosch@RA.ROCKWELL.COM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Any Audi 100 Fans...? (MVC) >Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:35:26 -0500 > >Anyone on the list a fan of the Audi 100? Is there an Audi list? The >reason I'm asking is that I've been informed this morning that a customer >of mine is requesting my presence at their manufacturing facility two days >a week. It'd be a sixty mile trip each way, mostly thru the great Upstate >NY lake effect snow belt. My bus (required Vanagon content) just isn't >the right vehicle for the task - in terms related to weather and mileage. > >Sorry for the waste of bandwidth but I don't know where else to ask... > >Alan Bosch >& Phred ('88 Wolfsburg) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:55:55 -0800 Reply-To: sfsoulsurfer@MINDSPRING.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gavin Flanagan Subject: Cigarette Adapter Workaround Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MS_Mac_OE_3087806155_1287931_MIME_Part" > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3087806155_1287931_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I too have dealt with floppy/loose connections to the cigarette adapter. After going to my local FLAPS and buying an adapter that allows to devices to use the adapter simultaneously, I accidentally discovered that my problem was solved. For whatever reason, this adapter is thicker than any of my individual plugs. --MS_Mac_OE_3087806155_1287931_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Cigarette Adapter Workaround I too have dealt with floppy/loose connections to the cigarette adapter= .
After going to my local FLAPS and buying an adapter that allows to devices<= BR> to use the adapter simultaneously, I accidentally discovered that my proble= m
was solved. For whatever reason, this adapter is thicker than any of my
individual plugs.  

--MS_Mac_OE_3087806155_1287931_MIME_Part-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:57:54 -0500 Reply-To: Dan Aldrich Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Aldrich Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter socket standard? In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20011105113302.04d5bea8@pop1.attglobal.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" This sounds like the European standard plugs. I have the same problem in my Saab. Fortunately the adapters aren't hard to find. Sprint gave them away for my phone; said they were for Mercedes vehicles. I'm sure Radio Shack carries them too. -d At 11:34 AM 11/5/01 -0500, you wrote: >Well there you have it. It's a standard size all right -- VW standard, one >of two they use. The other one is smaller. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Diplomacy is the art of saying "Nice doggie" until you can find a rock. -- Wynn Catlin ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:19:45 -0400 Reply-To: Malcolm Stebbins Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Malcolm Stebbins Organization: Mount Saint Vincent University Subject: Re: Passenger window rolls up HARD Comments: To: Scott Kraning In-Reply-To: <92.1caaa31b.291843a8@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Take the door panel and the plastic sheet off then you'll be able to see what's going on in there. May be one of the plastic glides/guides/sliders. malcolm On 5 Nov 2001, at 14:34, Scott Kraning wrote: > Hi All- > > Anybody have any thoughts on what causes the front windows > to roll up so hard? I feel like I am about to break the > plastic crank sometimes on my pass. side, and I am just > wondering if there is a certain way to go about adjusting/ > fixing this. > > Thanks! > > Scott > 88 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 12:21:45 -0800 Reply-To: Jere Hawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jere Hawn Subject: Re: High Altitude Issues?? Comments: To: Brady Ferguson In-Reply-To: <000801c16621$294339b0$6e01a8c0@c1346449a> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01C165F4.6F236220" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C165F4.6F236220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brady, Other than a wonderful time...nothing. I lived at 7,500 for a number of years and never experienced any noticeable change in operations. 90 GL 2.1 Jere 90 GL 88 GL -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Brady Ferguson Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:11 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: High Altitude Issues?? I'm a new Vanagon owner in the SF Bay Area... interested in taking my vanagon to Tahoe on occasion, and even thinking about moving there. What issues at 7000-8000 feet should I expect? Thanks in advance for any advice or personal experiences you might share. Brady ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C165F4.6F236220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Brady,
 
Other=20 than a wonderful time...nothing.  I lived at 7,500 for a number of = years=20 and never experienced any noticeable change in operations.  90 GL=20 2.1
 
Jere
90=20 GL
88=20 GL
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List=20 [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Brady=20 Ferguson
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:11 = AM
To:=20 vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: High Altitude=20 Issues??

I'm a new Vanagon owner in the SF Bay = Area...   interested in taking my vanagon to Tahoe on = occasion, and=20 even thinking about moving there.  What issues at 7000-8000 feet = should I=20 expect? 
 
Thanks in advance for any advice or = personal=20 experiences you might share.
 
Brady
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C165F4.6F236220-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:43:48 -0700 Reply-To: Bob Stevens Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob Stevens Subject: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Know I've seen this problem visited on here but don't have firm memory of the solution...or actually what the problem is...help please: On my way to work today, about 10 minutes after starting my precious beast, I was accelerating onto the freeway and had very little accelleration at first, then when holding the accelerator down, it began to slow gradually. (On my way to the freeway on surface streets, no problem.) I pulled to the right side of the roadway and shifted down into "2" (automatic) and same results. When I would pump the pedal quickly it would accelerate slightly while sputtering and bucking. When I held the pedal still it would only slowly decellerate. and finally smoothed out and I could proceed as normal. Question: is this the idle/air mixture device behind the right rear tailight? Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Bob Stevens '91 Westy _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 12:45:36 -0800 Reply-To: gary hradek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: gary hradek Subject: Trilogy of the trip to libby montana "conclusion" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii So here I am coasting into Joe’s Auto Kare in Port Orford. I was going nowhere unless I charged the battery for a run further down the coast or get a new alternator. With my options somewhat limited, I wonder if there was some way I could hide those darn California plates on the vanagon. In Oregon the states unofficial motto is “don’t californicate Oregon”. I approached Joe and inquired if he might be able to install a new alternator? He was positive about the job but unsure of getting parts. After doing some checking he quickly determined a bad rear alternator bearing. Port Orford is a two gas station town. Bigger then some and even a parts store across the street from Joe’s. But the bosch replacements from across the street was too rich for Joe’s and was no more available than the Napa rebuild that would be 30 minutes south and 24 hours later after overnight shipping. Looks like we were spending the night in Port Orford. It goes without explanation that the cat would take this news better than the other passenger. THIS WAS AN UNPLANNED STOP. If you have to be stuck anywhere, Port Orford is not such a bad place. When your wife sends you out to find the motel in town go for the high ground. I swear to god that the only reason I went for the low ground was that the high ground was uphill and I did not think we would want to carry all our stuff, the cat and of course the cat box up that hill despite that fact that it had a great vista of the Oregon coast. This time of the year is a slow time at Port Orford. It was raining so in between outburst we went shopping and looked over the selection of diners. The pizza place at Joe’s side of town is a good choice if you are not in a hurry “we weren’t”. The diner downtown makes a good breakfast and Fish place looked good but was too far to go in the rainstorm when walking. By noon the next day Joe had returned from “Gold Beach” with the part. I was not really troubled by my alternator having to be shipped by way of “Gold Beach”. I was grateful that Joe had driven to get the part. By 2pm the new alternator was either charging at 15 volts or not at all. It appeared that some dash related problem was not limiting the charge. I left Joe to the problem as I could see my looking over his shoulder was not making his job any easier. By now we had walked the town enough times that we began to recognize and be recognized by some of the locals and the local’s pets. Port Orford is a great dog town. The beach is a dog friendly beach. After returning to our motel we learned that our van was ready and we were sadly leaving Port Orford by 4 pm. Joe’s work was good and the van worked better than before as now the previous unworking battery light worked as well as the alternator. His price was considerably less than what I would have paid in California and his quality of work proved itself as we drove all night and into the morning with lights blazing to get home. Thank you Oregon and thank you Joe a truly honest mechanic who I would recommend to any vanagon owner. Gary __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:18:38 -0800 Reply-To: Bill Kasper Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Kasper Subject: Re: Trilogy of the trip to libby montana "conclusion" Comments: To: gary hradek In-Reply-To: <20011105204536.5073.qmail@web14702.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v472) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit well, i have a similar story, involving oregonians, oregonian auto repairmen, and bosch alternators. on our trip this summer we had the pleasure of driving to portland, with the lovely home of tom and margo salicos at the end of that day's drive. we'd not met them, but tom had graciously offered us overnight "camping" space and hot showers so we could avail ourselves of portland's pleasures. what resulted from that offer was a wonderful friendship and some further good times involving hot springs and woodfire-cooked food. they're great people, and lots of fun. on the way to portland, coming from cave junction by way of crater lake and some odd forest road "shortcut" given to me by a lady at the steamboat resort that added more than two hours to our travel time, the van's alternator and ox lights came on. this was just outside of eugene. after consulting bentley i decided it was that the alternator wasn't charging properly, because the lights would go off above 1500 rpm. so we drove onwards, to our meeting with tom and margo. they fed and watered us and made us feel more than at home, which was a greatful relief after such a trying day (remember, all this took place with a 3.5 year old lad unhappy on the third day of our trip). the next day we took in portland's zoo and some of downtown, and when we got back tom and i talked about the problem i had. he gave me his repairman's number, nick at m&m automotive in hillsborough (i still have to post a note complete with his address and phone; that's at home). i called nick the next morning (after the night of the exploding diaper) and we got there about 2pm. nick was just leaving, so his son (whose name i cannot remember...peter? paul?) took a look. diagnosed bad brushes, and $50 to replace, parts and labor. he started the work, and one of the brushes got lost/stuck inside the alternator housing. so, he decided to take off the alternator and fish around, which he did, and got the brush out. by this time nick had come back, and they started to put the alternator back on...at which point nick realized the rear cup bushing on the alternator was shot, and that they should not put it back in the van. he quoted me a $200 price for a new alternator, and called his parts guy immediately...that they needed it RIGHT NOW. i was lamenting to him that a new alternator was a hell of a sad way to spend $200 on the fifth day of a three week vacation, when his son remembered they probably had the right alternator in a parts vanagon out on the lot. they pulled it and it was a match, though not the exact part number (a bosch 90A with the right pulley length, though). they put the new brushes on this alternator and got the new one installed. they had to use the 2wd alternator bracket, though, as the "new" alternator wouldn't accept the syncro's (upper) bracket; the mount for the adjusting screw is too thick, so we needed the thinner bracket. they got this on, and i asked him what the cost would be. nick says "$50", and i just about hugged him. i was signing off on the paperwork when the parts guy walked in with the new alternator...nick winked at me and kindly told him he'd have to take it back with him. i highly, highly, highly recommend m&m automotive in hillsborough, or (just west of portland). and tom and margo (and kevin and *stamper,stamper*) salicos in beaverton are also very, very fine. AND, nick gave me a tip to a great camping place in the coast ranges...spruce run county park, just outside of elsie on highway 26. great river (the nehelem), somewhat crowded, but beautiful. bill '87 syncro westfalia On Monday, November 5, 2001, at 12:45 , gary hradek wrote: > Thank you Oregon and thank you Joe a truly honest > mechanic who I would recommend to any vanagon owner. > Gary > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:29:48 -0500 Reply-To: abusguy2@SPRINGMAIL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Baker Subject: Gas Leak When I fill up my tank (83.5 Vanagon) with gas it leaks out from somewhere. It only leaks when the tank is FULL, & after I have driven about 25 miles, the level drops and it leaks no more. Is there a place in one of the breather lines or somewhere where this commonly occurs? How much of a PITA is it to drop the tank and see exactly where it is coming from? Peace, JB '66 Split Window Camper '83 H20 Vanagon "You cannot simultaneously work for peace and prepare for war..." ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:53:37 EST Reply-To: JM060356@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Morgan Subject: Re: Gas Leak Comments: To: abusguy2@springmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_85.128189e5.29186461_boundary" --part1_85.128189e5.29186461_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit MAJOR P.I .T.A !!!! IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A LIFT AND A FRIEND IT IS DOABLE . THE PROBLEM IS WHAT YOU WILL FIND! RUSTED TANK?$$$$ OR GASKETS /SEALS/LINES/ ALL OF THE ABOVE OR JUST SOME. THE FIRST THING IS TO SEE IF YOU CAN LOCALIZE THE AREA.BENTLY HAS A GOOD EXPLODED DIAGRAM. HAD TO REPAIR MY TANK IN MY 86GL AND FOUND THAT THE TRICK IS TWO OR THREE PEOPLE AND A LIFT. THEN A WEEK TO GET ALL OF THE SEALS AND GASKETS. (CART BEFORE THE HORSE...) --part1_85.128189e5.29186461_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit MAJOR P.I .T.A !!!!   IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A LIFT AND A FRIEND IT
IS  DOABLE . THE PROBLEM IS WHAT YOU WILL FIND!  RUSTED TANK?$$$$
OR  GASKETS /SEALS/LINES/  ALL OF THE ABOVE OR JUST SOME. THE FIRST THING IS TO SEE IF YOU CAN LOCALIZE THE AREA.BENTLY HAS A GOOD EXPLODED DIAGRAM.  HAD TO REPAIR MY TANK IN MY 86GL AND FOUND THAT THE TRICK IS TWO  OR THREE PEOPLE AND A LIFT. THEN A WEEK TO GET
ALL OF THE SEALS AND GASKETS. (CART BEFORE THE HORSE...)
--part1_85.128189e5.29186461_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:59:34 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Gary, I've posted this testimonial several time before, but will do it again: I bought my '85 Westy two years ago with a full set of brand new Kirkland LT tires on it. Since then, I've put 37,000 miles on these tires, much of the mileage during my previous two round trips to central Mexico, where I drove on some pretty rough roads. 37,000 miles later, these same Kirkland LT tires look nearly new, & I am about to head, once again, for another winter of adventuring in Mexico. I've not had a SINGLE flat in 37,000 miles, & I find the ride comfortable-- even in a cross wind. These tires are available still from Costco for $60.00 installation included. You can spend a lot more on tires, but why? I can't recommend these tires enough. Cheers, Phaedra '85 Wolfsburg Westy "Basecamp" --Give Peace A Chance ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Stearns To: Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 9:02 AM Subject: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger > Hi- > Our '88 will need new tires soon. Currently we run Michelin Energy 205/70x15 VR 95 on 15x7 wheels. The idea of the VR speed rating and the 95 load rating was to add strength. I've never had any reason to doubt the safety of these tires, but they do have one big tradeoff. When inflated hard enough to handle well, they ride very hard. Cracks and expansion joints hammer the body as if it were on skateboard wheels. When inflated soft enough to ride acceptably, they squirm all over and actually let the van bounce up and down. Our van does have slightly stiffer springs and Bilsteins, but all of the bushings at both ends were just replaced (by me, talk about a big miserable job!), so suspension shouldn't be contributing to rough ride. By comparison, I also have a '92 Jetta GLi. Lowered higher rate springs, Bilstein Sports, and plastic suspension bushings...and much lower tire pressures. It rides much better over the rough stuff. > > Could LT tires do a better job? I've always had the feeling that LT tires couldn't ride well 'cause they're truck tires. Is there something about the construction of LT tires that allows higher inflation pressures and load handling but not the jarring ride? Is there some typical difference in construction between LT and passenger tires that gives LT tires that higher load capacity while not destroying the ride? Can LT tires also handle well? > > Thanks > > Gary > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 15:58:46 -0600 Reply-To: Christopher Darilek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Christopher Darilek Subject: Re: Gas Leak Comments: To: abusguy2@SPRINGMAIL.COM MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit This happened to my 82 tank after I'd dropped it to replace a shifter bushing. There are 4 vent connections to the gas tank and if one of them pops off it causes the tank to overflow before the pump knows it's full. You *can* feel them reaching in through the wheel well but it's almost impossible to do anything with them & is a bit of contorting for your arm to do also. The tank itself is not too hard to drop, but it's hard to put it back up with all these vent hoses staying connected. If I had to do it again I'd get longer vent lines and attach them with hose clamps before I put the tank back up, you'd have to just let the slack in the hoses lie on the tank I guess. It's not pretty. Good luck! Chris 82 Westfalia ----- Original Message ----- From: John Baker To: Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 3:29 PM Subject: Gas Leak > When I fill up my tank (83.5 Vanagon) with gas it leaks out from somewhere. It only leaks when the tank is FULL, & after I have driven about 25 miles, the level drops and it leaks no more. Is there a place in one of the breather lines or somewhere where this commonly occurs? How much of a PITA is it to drop the tank and see exactly where it is coming from? > > > > > > Peace, JB > '66 Split Window Camper > '83 H20 Vanagon > > "You cannot simultaneously work for peace and prepare for war..." > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:58:22 -0500 Reply-To: georgejoann@JUNO.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: George Jannini Subject: Atlanta Area Meeting On Wednesday MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello there everyone! It's that time again for us to get together at Maui Taco in Decatur for food and cheer. Lots of things have been going on over the past month and hopefully this will be a time a lot of you can come visit us. Also, for any of you planning to go to the Tampa show, final travel details may be discussed. We will meet Wednesday (November 7th) at 7:00 p.m. Maui Taco is located in a strip mall in Decatur Square at the corner of Commerce and West Ponce de Leon. The prominent feature of the shopping center is a CVS drug store. Hope to see ya'll there. George/ATL '89 Westy, Wernher ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:04:48 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: finding the color code Comments: To: fty@CISCO.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

The dealer has a little book in the parts department with color codes, paint names, and corresponding years. Cool white, candy white, et et et et




Unity One Coalition. Our goals: To create a unified federal world government. To build a tollway and bridge system that encircles the globe and joins the continents. To use the resources of the rainforest to build exotic homes for the poor. To prepare mankind for the colonization of the universe. To adapt mankind to a diet of freeze dried fermented pulverized italian roaches, and canned chewed tall fescue grass regurgitated by pigmy chimpanzees living in factories.
>From: fty@CISCO.COM
>Reply-To: fty@CISCO.COM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: finding the color code
>Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:17:33 -0500
>
>The paint code is on a white sticker just below the fuse panel.
>
>cheers - Frank
>
>In reference to the message from: JM060356@AOL.COM
>
> >duh! I am sorry for the slip up.(new to the list) The van is a champagne
> >beige according to my wife. I am color blind so matching the color will be
> >loads of fun
> >
> >--part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary
> >Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >
> >duh!  I am sorry for the slip up.(new to the list) The van is a champagne beige according to my wife. I am color blind so matching the color will be loads of fun
> >
> >--part1_88.ecd217a.2917ed84_boundary--
> >
>
>
>\\\\////\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\////\\\\
>Frank Terhaar-Yonkers W4FTY TRA 8325/L2
>Cisco Systems, Inc.
>NSITE - Pineview Building - RTP
>7025 Kit Creek Road PO Box 14987
>Research Triangle Park, North Carolina 27709
>fty@cisco.com voice(919)392-2101 fx(919)392-6927


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:05:39 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy Comments: To: Bob Stevens In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit clogged/clogging fuel filter? > From: Bob Stevens > Reply-To: Bob Stevens > Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:43:48 -0700 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy > > Know I've seen this problem visited on here but don't have firm memory of > the solution...or actually what the problem is...help please: > On my way to work today, about 10 minutes after starting my precious beast, > I was accelerating onto the freeway and had very little accelleration at > first, then when holding the accelerator down, it began to slow gradually. > (On my way to the freeway on surface streets, no problem.) I pulled to the > right side of the roadway and shifted down into "2" (automatic) and same > results. When I would pump the pedal quickly it would accelerate slightly > while sputtering and bucking. When I held the pedal still it would only > slowly decellerate. and finally smoothed out and I could proceed as normal. > Question: is this the idle/air mixture device behind the right rear > tailight? > Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance. > > Bob Stevens > '91 Westy > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:19:40 -0800 Reply-To: "M.R. Nimmo" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "M.R. Nimmo" Subject: Re: Gas Leak - dropping the tank Comments: To: abusguy2@SPRINGMAIL.COM, vanagon@vanagon.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii When I fill up my tank (83.5 Vanagon) with gas it leaks out from somewhere. It only leaks when the tank is FULL, & after I have driven about 25 miles, the level drops and it leaks no more. Could be a seal, or a plastic Y, or (very likely) a rusted tank. Mine was the tank. Bus Depot has them new. (Thanks Ron!!!) Not that hard of a job. Lift wasn't needed. I removed the tank on the side of the road once. You will need one friend to help raising and lowering. (But I did notice my tank brackets were bent a little prior to me removing the tank. Maybe you have to bend these to remove it without jacking the front of the vehicle up? I'm sure ramps--don't forget the stands-- would also work.) Basically, you remove the filler neck from outside the van. Three screws as I recall. Then remove the five vent lines that poke down into the gas tank from the top. This is the rough part. Stick your hand over the wheel and frame to get to them. Next, unbolt the three brackets underneath the van that hold the tank. Then the tank will lower. Be careful! Lower it abit and remove the fuel sensor cable. Now it's free. You find the rusty area in the hump section, I'll bet. Salty water kicked up there I suppose. Reverse it to replace the tank. Do yourself a favor and replace the grommets while you are in there. Again, thanks Ron!!! I couldn't find an acceptable replacement tank, so I bought new. It's not that hard after you do it once. The contortion thing is the most difficult. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:24:43 -0800 Reply-To: "M.R. Nimmo" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "M.R. Nimmo" Subject: Fuel tank- reinstalling Comments: To: cdarilek@DAXCONTROL.COM, vanagon@vanagon.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > The tank itself is not too hard to drop, but it's hard to put it back up with all these vent hoses staying connected. Nahhh. Don't try to connect them before raising the tank. Install your new lines or Y's or what ever, but leave it handing from the bus frame. Clean the tank up real nice. Reinstall the grommets in the tank. Put a little silicone on the inner part of the grommets. It'll help. Raise the tank and put on the brackets. Don't forget the fuel gauge sender!!! Then, only after it's in place, pop those five vent lines back in place. They go in easy. Pulling out is a bear, though. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:33:20 -0600 Reply-To: pederparizek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: pederparizek Subject: Re: Bad Vanagon News... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What's with all the Vanagons in accidents lately? This is like the third or forth one on the list in the past week. Maybe I should park mine until next summer. My sympothies go out to all of those that have been in accidents with theirs in the last week And since I'm a capitalist pig, I'll sell you my '85 Westy for say $10,000. Peace out, Peder ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:40:17 -0500 Reply-To: Rob Le Duc Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rob Le Duc Subject: tiico swap in ct. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C16620.EEFF9B40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C16620.EEFF9B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable looking for any one in mass. ri. or ct. who has done a tiico swap=20 thinking og doing one would like some first hand info ------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C16620.EEFF9B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
looking for any one in mass. ri. or = ct. =20 who has done a tiico swap
 
thinking og doing one would like = some first hand=20 info
------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C16620.EEFF9B40-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:02:46 -0600 Reply-To: Donald Baxter Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Donald Baxter Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter socket standard Comments: To: Steve Hoge In-Reply-To: <0GMC003X3EEG4F@mta5.snfc21.pbi.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A few years ago, I just replaced my cigarette lighter with the American version bought at a FLAPS. My cell phone and CD adaptor fit it perfectly with no adaptors. It looks sort of VW-ish, but has the North American diameter. It also has the lighted green ring around the circumference. _____ Donald Baxter Iowa City, Iowa (319) 337-0494 www.mindspring.com/~onanov -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hoge Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 1:39 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter socket standard Dave M wrote: >In the Vanagon it fit very loosely, flopped around, >and would not stay secure Wow, I thought it was just mine. I've tried a couple of lighter socket accessories in my '89 dashboard and they never fit snugly, worked intermittently, fell out, etc. Any hints for retrofitting a "real" socket? -Steve ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 19:43:31 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy Comments: To: mtbikerbob@MSN.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Go to vanagon.com and do an archive search for "hesitation". Tons of info and test procedures. 2 possibilities that stuck out. 02 sensor and ECU. When it stumbles next time, unpluge the 02 sensor. I would also start with that if your "shooting from the hip". It's cheap!

Randy Charrette

87 Syncro

>From: Bob Stevens
>Reply-To: Bob Stevens
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy
>Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:43:48 -0700
>
>Know I've seen this problem visited on here but don't have firm
>memory of
>the solution...or actually what the problem is...help please:
>On my way to work today, about 10 minutes after starting my precious
>beast,
>I was accelerating onto the freeway and had very little
>accelleration at
>first, then when holding the accelerator down, it began to slow
>gradually.
>(On my way to the freeway on surface streets, no problem.) I pulled
>to the
>right side of the roadway and shifted down into "2" (automatic) and
>same
>results. When I would pump the pedal quickly it would accelerate
>slightly
>while sputtering and bucking. When I held the pedal still it would
>only
>slowly decellerate. and finally smoothed out and I could proceed as
>normal.
>Question: is this the idle/air mixture device behind the right rear
>tailight?
>Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
>Bob Stevens
>'91 Westy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 19:04:00 -0600 Reply-To: Bill Johnson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Johnson Subject: '85 Vanagon Found In Leesville, Louisiana MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00E0_01C1662C.A0BCB380" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00E0_01C1662C.A0BCB380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was driving today and saw a '85 for sale. I checked it out and drove = it. It looks in decent condition. I noticed only 4 problems. There is = a power steering leak, and the brakes are soft. The AC does not cool. = There is a pin hole in the muffler, but rest of exhaust system looks = good. The engine looks in good shape with no head leaks or oil leaks. = It is an automatic transmission.=20 The upholstery is in good shape for an 85. Mats need cleaning or = replacing. The guy has it advertised for $1200, but will take $1000. = Looks like a good fix-up for someone at a cheap price. If it was a = Westy for $3000, it would be in my driveway. Oh, there is no rust, but = has some dings etc. =20 Bill ------=_NextPart_000_00E0_01C1662C.A0BCB380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I was driving today and saw a '85 for = sale.  I=20 checked it out and drove it.  It looks in decent condition.  I = noticed=20 only 4 problems.  There is a power steering leak, and the = brakes are=20 soft. The AC does not cool.  There is a pin hole in the = muffler, but=20 rest of exhaust system looks good.  The engine looks in good shape = with no=20 head leaks or  oil leaks.  It is an automatic transmission.=20
 
The upholstery is in good shape for an = 85. Mats=20 need cleaning or replacing.  The guy has it advertised for $1200, = but will=20 take $1000.  Looks like a good fix-up for someone at a cheap = price. =20 If it was a Westy for $3000, it would be in my driveway.  Oh, there = is no=20 rust, but has some dings etc.
 
Bill
------=_NextPart_000_00E0_01C1662C.A0BCB380-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 19:28:05 -0600 Reply-To: John Clavin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Clavin Subject: Austin TX repair shop needed Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Is anyone in the Austin TX area able to recommend a good repair shop for Vanagons? John Clavin Vanagon 85GL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:38:23 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy Comments: To: Bob Stevens In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII fuel pressure regulator, oxygen sensor, afm, fuel filter. I would first unplug the oxygen sensor and see how that does. Drive w/ it unconnected for a day or two. If that doesn't work, you'll need to pull out a volt meter and check the continuinity across the AFM (big black box) as you move the flapper thing... more as needed. -Matthew Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 On Mon, 5 Nov 2001, Bob Stevens wrote: > Know I've seen this problem visited on here but don't have firm memory of > the solution...or actually what the problem is...help please: > On my way to work today, about 10 minutes after starting my precious beast, > I was accelerating onto the freeway and had very little accelleration at > first, then when holding the accelerator down, it began to slow gradually. > (On my way to the freeway on surface streets, no problem.) I pulled to the > right side of the roadway and shifted down into "2" (automatic) and same > results. When I would pump the pedal quickly it would accelerate slightly > while sputtering and bucking. When I held the pedal still it would only > slowly decellerate. and finally smoothed out and I could proceed as normal. > Question: is this the idle/air mixture device behind the right rear > tailight? > Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance. > > Bob Stevens > '91 Westy > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 20:55:25 -0500 Reply-To: Harvest Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Harvest Subject: front defroster blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey everyone, I am new to the list and the new owner of a '90 Vanagon MV. Clearly this is a great list and an inspiring resource to the newbie such as myself. My front blower motor seems to be locked up (blows fuse immediately if turned on) and the local VW gurus tell me it is a $600 repair. I don't doubt there honesty or expertise, but I was wondering if there are any alternate solutions. Has anyone used a 12v defroster before? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 19:15:46 -0700 Reply-To: Gerald Masar Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gerald Masar Subject: Re: front defroster blower Comments: To: Harvest MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They probably would charge that much if the motor has to be replaced, because in order to do it, the dash has to be removed. The motor is available from the list vendors and several list members have done the job. Go to www.vanagon.com and try searching the archives. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harvest" To: Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 6:55 PM Subject: front defroster blower > Hey everyone, I am new to the list and the new owner of a '90 Vanagon MV. > Clearly this is a great list and an inspiring resource to the newbie such > as myself. My front blower motor seems to be locked up (blows fuse > immediately if turned on) and the local VW gurus tell me it is a $600 > repair. I don't doubt there honesty or expertise, but I was wondering if > there are any alternate solutions. Has anyone used a 12v defroster before? > Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, > > > Kevin ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 18:31:02 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Redline MT90 - Another Satisfied Customer! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wow! What a difference Redline MT-90 makes in my van's shifting! Since two years ago, when I bought my '85, shifting has been stiff. It got stiffer & stiffer, & shifting into reverse was *really a chore. No more--it's almost like having a new van! A local distributor sold me 4 quarts, (more than enough to do the job), --$25 including tax. Needless to say, I'm one "happy camper" today. To find an outlet near you, go to their website: www.redlineoil.com Here's to smoothe shifting, Phaedra ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 18:49:32 -0800 Reply-To: Michael Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Snow Subject: Re: Replacement Expansion Tank '82 Diesel MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is a horrible PITA. '82, '83, '84 all use different expansion tanks, hoses, and coolant pipes. The least expensive fix is to locate the correct model expansion tank for your engine. I know, there aren't any. When you find them, they are $60-80. Still cheaper than the big coolant hose the connects to the head. Maybe someone on the list has a used one. Unfortunately, I do not. Mike Snow The Bus Depot wrote: >>I'm looking for a replacement coolant expansion tank, part number 068 121 >> >405B. > >>It's for a 1982 Diesel Vanagon. I've checked the usual places, busboys, >> >busdepot, > >>vanagain - but nothing yet. I'm desperate. >> > > >VW has discontinued this tank. I have been searching for some in Europe but >so far no luck. I understand that the later Diesel version, the 405D (which >is still available), can be substituted if you change a couple of hoses. I >seem to recall some mention of this on the list once. You might check the >list archives or ask your local dealer. > >- Ron Salmon > The Bus Depot, Inc. > (215) 234-VWVW > www.busdepot.com > >_____________________________________________ >Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 22:24:57 -0500 Reply-To: Chad G Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad G Subject: Replacing Tranny Fluid MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit how do you go about draining and replacing fluid in a 4sp tranny????????? Chad G 85GL's ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 23:30:52 -0500 Reply-To: Chad G Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad G Subject: london lab tech cover + resume MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----5BF7F435_Outlook_Express_message_boundary" ------5BF7F435_Outlook_Express_message_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: message text Hi! How are you=3F I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later=2E Thanks ------5BF7F435_Outlook_Express_message_boundary ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 23:35:19 EST Reply-To: JordanVw@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JordanVw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: london lab tech cover + resume ..WARNING: VIRUS MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_7b.1db246d1.2918c287_boundary" --part1_7b.1db246d1.2918c287_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/01 11:31:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, groch@WORLDCHAT.COM writes: > > > Hi! How are you? > > I send you this file in order to have your advice > > See you later. Thanks > > > > FYI, this is a virus...dont open.. --part1_7b.1db246d1.2918c287_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/01 11:31:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, groch@WORLDCHAT.COM writes:




Hi! How are you?

I send you this file in order to have your advice

See you later. Thanks





FYI, this is a virus...dont open..
--part1_7b.1db246d1.2918c287_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 23:37:18 -0500 Reply-To: "Karl M." Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Karl M." Subject: 1982 Diesel Vanagon now up for grabs on Ebay Comments: To: Synco list , Audi-VW-Diesel list , TDI-conversion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, no one made a reasonable offer, so up it goes for auction. If anyone wants it before the auction ends, maybe something can be worked out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597625095 Karl Mullendore Westy Ventures 1987 Syncro Westfalia 1.9TD ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 20:59:01 -0800 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 4 Nov 2001 at 18:53, Gnarlodious wrote: > 5: Yours truly has even been known to put a can of sterno under the oil pan > for an hour or so in really frigid weather, you can do this to diesel. > Especially the Vanagon, it has the aluminum pan. A 500W halogen work light also works - takes about 20-30 minutes... I found this out one morning at -15C after neglecting to check my glow plugs a few years ago.Shawn & Janis Wright swright@sls.bc.ca http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright (Olympus List Archives) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 23:05:29 -0600 Reply-To: Joel Walker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joel Walker Organization: not likely Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > A 500W halogen work light also works - takes about 20-30 minutes... I found this out > one morning at -15C after neglecting to check my glow plugs a few years ago.Shawn actually, if you build a wooden box, of proper dimensions, and line it with reflecting tin foil (awright, so it's called aluminum foil nowadays!), and maybe even some insulation behind the foil, you can put a 60-watt bulb in there and it'll keep a nice temperature under the engine. but you need to make sure the box is quite close to the engine ... a gap of no more than, say, 1/4 inch (5-6mm). you'd be surprised at the amount of heat a bulb like that can put out. :) joel ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:26:47 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Tranny Problem Comments: To: type2@type2.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've got an 81 Westy and it doesn't want to go into first gear. It slips into second, third, fourth and reverse very easily and shifts smoothly while driving, also downshifts OK. I can pump the clutch a few times and it will normally get into gear and I can start the engine with the tranny in first gear and shift through the gears also downshift. It will go into 2,3,4 and reverse without pumping. It goes into first easily with the engine off and the vehicle starts (it doesn't seem to be a clutch problem). Anybody got any clues what might cause this. Stan Wilder ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:43:28 -0500 Reply-To: Chad G Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad G Subject: Engine Oil and Cold Weather MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With winter approaching I was wondering if it would be smart to change to a different viscosity oil. I live in southen Ontario Canada where it doesn't get that cold (maybe at most -15C). I'm currently using 20W50. Would it be wise to change.....I'm due for an oil change soon. Chad 85GL's ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:55:50 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Diesel Caveat: Case in point! Comments: To: jwalker17@earthlink.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/6/01 12:12:51 AM, jwalker17@EARTHLINK.NET writes: << if you build a wooden box, of proper dimensions >> Joel, I did something similar a few years ago during an extended cold spell when, in the mornings, my WBX was cranking about as fast as a taffy pulling machine. Instead of a wooden box, I cut down a cardboard box until it was a force fit under the sump. Inside, I placed a coffee can in which I had mounted a porcelain base (the type with the terminals on top). The can had large holes punched around its bottom in the hope of creating a chimney effect. I used a 150 watt lamp because that is what I had in the garage. One unforeseen benefit of a cardboard box is that there is little chance of doing any damage when you forget it is under there and drag it along for the ride. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:59:34 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Tranny Problem Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/6/01 12:27:59 AM, wilden1@JUNO.COM writes: << Anybody got any clues what might cause this. >> Stan, If you also have trouble getting it into reverse, I would suspect a bad pilot bearing. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 01:02:17 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Tranny Problem Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/6/01 12:27:59 AM, wilden1@JUNO.COM writes: << Anybody got any clues what might cause this. >> Stan, I read you e-mail a second time with glasses on my head instead of the desk. So, all I can say is I dunno. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 22:47:44 -0800 Reply-To: "MOST,DAVID" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "MOST,DAVID" Subject: need help with power window problem Comments: cc: mostd@juno.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I've removed and installed power window motors and regulators, but I'm not sure what's causing the current problem. I started to drive earlier today, powered the window down about two inches, and all of a sudden, the window glass dropped all the way the bottom. Pressing the switch would not bring the window back up, though the motor still makes noise. After removing the door panel, I was able to lift the glass manually (it moves quite freely now by hand) up the point where I had moved it down before it dropped. Then, I powered the switch in the up position until the motor made the sound of having reached the top. I could then move the window glass easily up to the top, but of course, it won't stay up by itself. So, I suspect that something has gone awry with the regulator. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this symptom (I've had parts snap, but that caused other symptoms), and if so, whether or not it was repairable. Does it sound like I need a new regulator? I have a spare motor, but given the freely moving window and the apparent functioning of the motor, I'm guessing this isn't the problem. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions. David '87 westfalia ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 03:30:45 -0500 Reply-To: rubatoguy@MINDSPRING.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Todd Last Subject: Re: need help with power window problem Comments: To: most@UCLA.EDU Sounds like one of the guides at the corners of the regulator may have snapped off, allowing the cable to go slack and drop the window. To check, take your door panel off and look at the regulator and cables. Don't run the window motor as this will kink and jam the cable in the motor housing. It could also be that the bolts holding the window to the riser have fallen out. (not likely). Todd '88 Westy "MOST,DAVID" wrote: > I've removed and installed power window motors and regulators, but I'm notsure what's causing the current problem. I started to drive earlier today, powered the window down about two inches, and all of a sudden, the window glass dropped all the way the bottom. Pressing the switch would not bring the window back up, though the motor still makes noise. After removing the door panel, I was able to lift the glass manually (it moves quite freely now by hand) up the point where I had moved it down before it dropped. Then, I powered the switch in the up position until the motor made the sound of having reached the top. I could then move the window glass easily up to the top, but of course, it won't stay up by itself. So, I suspect that something has gone awry with the regulator. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this symptom (I've had parts snap, but that caused other symptoms), and if so, whether or not it was repairable. Does it sound like I need a new regulator? I have a spare motor, but given the freely moving window and the apparent functioning of the motor, I'm guessing this isn't the problem. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions. David '87 westfalia ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:33:42 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" I thought you had a Vanagon, not a Bronco... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:33:42 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Passenger window rolls up HARD In-Reply-To: <92.1caaa31b.291843a8@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Anybody have any thoughts on what causes the front windows to roll up so >hard? I feel like I am about to break the plastic crank sometimes on my pass. >side, and I am just wondering if there is a certain way to go about >adjusting/ fixing this. > >Thanks! > >Scott >88 Westy Bad design! And broken window-winder handles are a fact of life with early watercooled VWs, even though they have metal inserts (all-plastic Toyota ones never fail). You might be able to remove and clean the winder mechanism and relubricate it with lithium grease (as an alternative, try spray motorcycle chainlube eg CRC Tac 2...) -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:33:42 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger Comments: To: Gary Stearns In-Reply-To: <002201c1661b$a8354ca0$0200a8c0@Gary> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Can LT tires also handle well? Er... better than they used to. But the lack of good car tires can kill you. *I* would NOT fit truck tires... in fact will be using 205/50/16 or lower-profile 17s on mine eventually. With Konis and aftermarket swaybars. A tire which gives a good ride, lasts a long time and resists punctures well is NOT a good tire if its grip is poor and it causes poor handling, as all truck tires will, and most cheap car tires (just as an ill-handling uncomfortable car is not good just because it's reliable). You pays your money and takes your chances. A set of truck or cheap car tires may not, but then again, they may well KILL you... and you won't know for sure until it's too late. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 04:43:56 -0500 Reply-To: Vanagon Man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Vanagon Man Subject: Removal of sliding window screens Volks, Any secrets to getting them out without busting them? Adam P 81 westy (3 of them) 74 beetle 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) 70 Single Cab "Whitey" Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 06:34:23 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: Engine Oil and Cold Weather Comments: To: groch@WORLDCHAT.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

I had this same question about 1 month ago on here. I ran 20/50 all last winter and it sounded horrible on cold starts in the morning in the mountains. Also blew the oil filter seal 2 times. Just switched to Synthetic 5w 50. So far so good!

Randy Charrette

87' Syncro weekender

Longmont, CO

>From: Chad G
>Reply-To: Chad G
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Engine Oil and Cold Weather
>Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:43:28 -0500
>
>With winter approaching I was wondering if it would be smart to change to a
>different viscosity oil. I live in southen Ontario Canada where it doesn't
>get that cold (maybe at most -15C). I'm currently using 20W50. Would it be
>wise to change.....I'm due for an oil change soon.
>
>Chad 85GL's


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 06:34:11 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: Engine Oil and Cold Weather Comments: To: groch@WORLDCHAT.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chad; I would. Try whatever the manual recommends for that temperature range. If you get the oil light flicker try the next higher viscosity. Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Tue, 6 Nov 2001 00:43:28 -0500 Chad G writes: > With winter approaching I was wondering if it would be smart to > change to a different viscosity oil > Chad 85GL's > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:19:40 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: Re: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger Comments: To: PSavage MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sadly, I have heard these tires are no longer available. I wish I had picked up a fifth for a spare. Jay ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 05:28:28 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger Comments: To: Jay L Snyder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just saw with my own eyes these tire at Costco in Santa Rosa CA not five days ago! Ask again--they're still available here in N CA. Phaedra ----- Original Message ----- From: Jay L Snyder To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 5:19 AM Subject: Re: Tires... Difference between LT and Passenger > Sadly, I have heard these tires are no longer available. I wish I had > picked up a fifth for a spare. > > Jay ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:35:28 -0500 Reply-To: doug.alcock@HEWITT.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Doug Alcock Subject: Re: Engine Oil and Cold Weather Comments: To: Chad G Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii >With winter approaching I was wondering if it would be smart to change to a >different viscosity oil. I live in southern Ontario Canada where it doesn't >get that cold (maybe at most -15C). I'm currently using 20W50. Would it be >wise to change.....I'm due for an oil change soon. > >Chad 85GL's Hi Chad, I'm a bit North of you in Toronto ---- I switch to 15W-40 for the cold months of Jan and Feb ---- though we get a little colder here sometimes (-30C). The 20w50 gets awful thick at -30 and the ol' Westy gets grumpy about turning over. Cheers, Doug Alcock '84 Westy "BlueBelle" Toronto, Canada http://www.torontovanagon.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:52:05 -0500 Reply-To: doug.alcock@HEWITT.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Doug Alcock Subject: Re: front defroster blower Comments: To: Harvest Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii >Hey everyone, I am new to the list and the new owner of a '90 Vanagon MV. >Clearly this is a great list and an inspiring resource to the newbie such >as myself. My front blower motor seems to be locked up (blows fuse >immediately if turned on) and the local VW gurus tell me it is a $600 >repair. I don't doubt there honesty or expertise, but I was wondering if .there are any alternate solutions. Has anyone used a 12v defroster before? > Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, > >Kevin Hi Kevin, My front blower went before the onset of last winter and I still haven't talked myself into pulling the dash. Keep in mind that you still have heat but not a blower. The heat coming out of the vents will keep your windows defrosted and the rear heater will keep the van warm. I crack my side vent window to direct cold air over the windshield for the 5 or ten minutes until the engine is warm. This helps keep me from fogging up until I have some heat moving. Of course, this may not work in a colder climate than Toronto. Incidentally, I tried one of those 12 volt defrosters when I had a (heatless) air-cooled '78. It was useless and more effective when used as a window scraper. Cheers, Doug Alcock '84 Westy "BlueBelle" Toronto, Canada http://www.torontovanagon.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:05:26 -0500 Reply-To: Robert Donalds Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Robert Donalds Subject: Boston Bob,s updated web site MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00DC_01C166A2.2C7E62E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00DC_01C166A2.2C7E62E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have updated my web site with the current priicing of my engines and = have posted the new lifter article I have been promising for to long=20 this is a work in progress and I will be adding more soon=20 Bob http://www.bostonengine.com ------=_NextPart_000_00DC_01C166A2.2C7E62E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have updated my web site with the = current=20 priicing of my engines and have posted the new lifter article I have = been=20 promising for to long
this is a work in progress and I will = be adding=20 more soon
Bob
http://www.bostonengine.com
------=_NextPart_000_00DC_01C166A2.2C7E62E0-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 06:53:41 -0800 Reply-To: Shadow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shadow Subject: sliding door pops open Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I'm having trouble with my sliding door on my 90 westy camper,it snaps open often and often won't close all the way. any ideas on how to fix it ?? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:12:23 -0600 Reply-To: Anthony Bailey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Anthony Bailey Subject: Re: cold starting In-Reply-To: <65064E04-CCB5-11D5-9E9D-000502FD06CB@mac.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v472) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello all, I just wanted to let youns know I got it idling pretty good this past weekend. Thanks again for your help/suggestions. Tony On Monday, October 29, 2001, at 03:39 PM, Anthony Bailey wrote: > Hello all, I'm having a problem with my '87 Vanagon starting first thing > in the morning. It'll start but you have to keep it running with the gas > pedal for 30 seconds or so, sometimes a minute before it'll idle on its > own, otherwise it stalls. It's normally only the first time when its > cold that's it giving us the problem. > Any ideas? Tony > ---------- > this is coming to you from Anthony Bailey KC0HZP > (mailto:abailey@mac.com) Marble Hill, Missouri 63764 > > ---------- this is coming to you from Anthony Bailey KC0HZP (mailto:abailey@mac.com) Marble Hill, Missouri 63764 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:21:04 -0500 Reply-To: Kitzmann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kitzmann Subject: Re: Bucking and Snorting on Fwy In-Reply-To: <200111052159.fA5Lxrw05851@marlin.exis.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Had similiar problems from 1)some water in the fuel and 2)A Fuel pump that was starting to die. Hope that helps, Dave K. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:24:03 -0700 Reply-To: lkadams@TELUSPLANET.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Keith Adams Subject: 2001 Eurovan wheels bolt pattern? Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=us-ascii Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v388) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone know the bolt pattern and offset of the 16" BBS wheels on the 2001 Eurovan? Someone said they are no longer 5 on 112. Keith Adams Calgary, AB, CA || http://www.clubveedub.com 86 Westy "Roxy" || 87 Syncro "Hugh" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:04:28 -0800 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Subject: Re: Oil Filter Question In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 5 Nov 2001 at 13:34, The Bus Depot wrote: > > Motomaster are FRAM filters, and the motomaster supreme are > > the fancy FRAM filters. Neither of these are very highly regarded > > for poor pressure relief & anti-drainback valves and low filtering > > surface area compared to Bosch/Mann/VW filters. > > I have also experienced lower hot oil pressure conditions on > > several VWs when using FRAM/Motomaster filters compared with > > Bosch/VW (with pressure gauge). > > > It might be worth noting here that the Bosch filters sold in the U.S. are > NOT the same as the Bosch filters sold in many other parts of the world. In > many countries Bosch sells a German made, OE quality filter for the Vanagon. > But in the U.S., they simply re-label a non-OEM U.S. made filter and sell it > as a Bosch. For this reason, I ship only Mann and Mahle, which are both the > correct OEM filters with the correct anti-drainback valve. Yes, good point. The US Bosch filters are made by Champion Labs, and seem to be very good quality. I've never had a German made and US made side by side to compare though, but of course would choose the German ones if I could and the price was close. I do know that VW oil filters from the dealers in Canada are now made in the US also, and appear identical to the US made Bosch. (I have six of them in the garage from a case bought a few years ago). This is for Jetta/Golf gas and diesel filters for non-TDI, not sure about the other fitments. I'm using the gas VW filters on my 2.1 WB with no problems. Shawn & Janis Wright swright@sls.bc.ca http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright (Olympus List Archives) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:04:51 -0800 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: Dan's Diesel Rebuild Part 8 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Well, here is another installment in my ongoing story. When we last heard from out hero, we were deciding whether to mate the old Vanagon head to the not-so-old Dasher block. Well, I finally decided that the old Dasher head was good enough to put back on its old block, so that's the direction we headed in... After a wait of a few days, German Auto Salvage in Berkeley (510-525-6000, ask for Joe--he's the diesel guy) came up with all of the parts I needed for the rebuild of the Dasher motor. Their prices seemed to match the prices I've found around on the Internet, maybe a little higher. I decided to go with COFAP rings after some consultation with people on this list and elsewhere. To prepare the block, I had new intermediate shaft bearings pressed in (theold ones were damaged by yours truly). I bought a can of engine degreaser and and went to a carwash. I really hosed it out good, and then after I was done, fogged the cylinders with WD-40 to keep them from rusting. It is very satisfying to flush gunk out of the water and oil passages. I did the same with the head. CAMS RUST EASILY, so be generous with WD-40 and or engine oil after you are done. The actual engine build took only an hour or two. We put in the new main bearings, oiled them, and torqued them down with plasti-guage to see what the clearance was. It was right on. We put in the pistons, with no need to file the rings. By the way, when we finally put the crank in with assembly lube and hadn't connected the connecting rods, it turned over like oiled glass. Truly wonderful. There is this big huge hunk of iron and it spins silently and effortlessly on this film of oil that is like .002 inches think. Very cool. We torqued down the head after we got #1 piston to Top Dead Center and got the slot on the back of the cam locked in position. We are waiting to do the first bolt stretch until the engine is in the van. I went to ACE hardware and bought sawhorse brackets, and built a sawhorse out of 2 x 4 wood. It fits in the back of the van, straddling the engine cover. My plan is to hang the chain hoist from this derrick, and do the engine lowering and lifting with it. I am pretty proud of myself. I also layed a 2 x 4 across the engine hatch, and I will hang a strap from it, wrap it around the transmission, and pull it up tight. This will support the transmission while it has no engine to hold on to. Since I plan to do this without jackstands or ramps, I have measured the ground clearance in the back, and there is enough to slide the engine out (in) on its side on a piece of carpet without any pumps or alternators attached. I will do that stuff on the engines while they are in place. Also, I have been haunting a few of the junkyards, and have picked up oil pressure, voltmeter, and clocks gauges from Jettas and Porsches. There is also an '82 westy (very bare and stripped out) that I pulled the center dash/console off of to experiment with gauge placement. It looks like there is space just below the radio for two or three 2" VDO gauges to go in a line. They would look stock in that position, though they won't be right in my face. I have also gotten (for free!!--the guys at the yard always pity me) a few oil pressure sending units that will run the gauge and the idiot light. I have gotten advice from concerned people on the list that I should use a new sending unit, so I'm torn. Anyway, that's all for now. I plan to pull the engine and maybe put in the new one this weekend, if SWMBO sees fit to dispense mercy upon me and releases me from kid duties for a few hours. http://faculty.haas.berkeley.edu/snow/vanagon/vanagon.html Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '01 Xootr Scooter _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:25:31 -0800 Reply-To: "Buettner, Peter" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Buettner, Peter" Subject: emergency near Modesto, CA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > Hi all, > > A NEATO member (Collin) just called me up. His '71 Bus is on the side of > the road with low oil pressure (light blinking) and strange sounds from > the engine. He is currently in Big Oak Flat, near Modesto, CA. Can > anyone recommend a mechanic in this area? > > Thanks, > Peter ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:19:48 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: tranny rebuild: AA Vs. Rancho Performance Comments: cc: poll7356@UIDAHO.EDU In-Reply-To: <20011101.204606.-1584007.0.aatransaxle@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I was just checking out a clutch kit on Busdepot.com and came across this: > > We offer rebuilt transaxles from Rancho Performance, one of the industry > leaders. These affordably priced rebuilds carry a 12 month/12,000 mile > factory warranty. Transaxle, Rebuilt, Rancho Performance, Syncro, excl > transfer case, Exchange (you send your unit to be rebuilt) $999.95. > What does excl transfer case mean??? seriously...do they just send the > trans without the Low/Rev assy and front output shaft??? Of course I cannot comment on AA (except to say that Daryl's reputation is quite good). But with regard to Rancho, I can say that have been dealing with them for several years and have had nothing but good experience with their work and their professionalism. I have yet to receive a single warranty claim. They have been very honest with core deposits (as compared to some less-scrupulous rebuilders, who somehow manage to find something wrong with every core so they do not have to refund all of your deposit). In two cases where a transmission reached a customer with signs of shipping damage, they replaced it first and asked questions later. In the case of the non-Syncro trans, you can either send yours in to be rebuilt (for $879.95 plus shipping), or buy one up front for the same price plus a $475 core deposit which is refunded upon return of your rebuildable trans. But in the case of a Syncro trans, they rarely have good cores to rebuild, so generally you must send yours in first. (Even when they do have a good core to rebuild, they charge a $1000 core deposit because they are so hard to come by!) The price of $999 plus shipping includes rebuilding the trans itself but not the transfer case section. However, it does include the cost of disassembling, cleaning, inspecting, and resealing the transfer case and output shaft, so that they can inspect it for wear or damage. If close inspection determines that the internals of the transfer case do need to be rebuilt, they quote on that separately based on what needs to be done, as it is not included in the $999 price. However, if the majority of the wear is in the transaxle section itself, it's $999. I can recall one instance where they did contact the customer regarding the transfer case, and several where they determined that the $999 rebuild was all the customers needed (and indeed the customers have not reported further problems). - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:43:36 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: Oil Filter Question In-Reply-To: <3BE7998C.26973.2CAC36E@localhost> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I do know that VW oil filters from the dealers in Canada are now > made in the US ,,, This is for Jetta/Golf gas and > diesel filters for non-TDI, not sure about the other fitments. Last time I checked (here in the U.S.), the Vanagon oil filters on the VW dealer's shelves were still German made, but the Jetta/Golf ones were U.S. made. Not sure if that is still the case. In any event, the dealer charges much more than you would pay for a comparable Mann or Mahle, so it's kind of a moot point anyway unless you're need one fast and don't mind paying about double. This is the kind of item that it pays to order a few of at a time of and keep on the shelf, since you will need one every 3000 miles. Even if you don't change your own oil, you're better off providing your own filter to the garage rather than taking a chance on what filter they might use. For the few bucks they cost, it's very cheap insurance. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:36:38 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Specs: My Kirkland Tires MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since a few have p-mailed already, asking for this info--here it is for anybody else..... Phaedra '85 Wolfsburg Westy "Basecamp" --Give Peace A Chance Kirkland Signature LT 2ply Radial Tires LT195/75R14 93/90 Q M&S Load Range: C ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:32:24 -0500 Reply-To: Vanagon Man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Vanagon Man Subject: Looking for ball joint boots Volks, Have some cracked ball joint boots......joints are fairly new and have no play....any sources? Adam P 81 westy (3 of them) 74 beetle 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) 70 Single Cab "Whitey" Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:27:42 -0500 Reply-To: Greg Marshall Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Greg Marshall Subject: guage wiring question. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello van heads... When I'm running power to my new dash guages, where should I draw it from? Also, for drawing power for the guage back lamps, can I run power from the wires that run to the heater control back lamp? Will I blow any fuses doing this? thanks folks, Greg. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 13:34:35 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: VOTE! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f5.11d4b2ca.2919873b_boundary" --part1_f5.11d4b2ca.2919873b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not so long ago, I remember a thread where several folks were complaining about politicians, etc. Well, here is your chance to do something about it! Go out and Vote for the person who you feel best expresses your beliefs and ideals. Many people sit around and complain but never vote. "My vote doesn't matter," they say in their own defense, or "It's either vote for one crook or the other so why bother?" Right now we are not voting for a presidential election. It is mostly for Governors and local representatives (at least here in NJ). If you don't like the people at the national level, then please remember that they started at the local level. So if you want to stop a certain type of politician from becoming a Senator or even President, now is your chance. If you have an idea of what a good politician should be (although "good politician" can seem like an oxymoron in our day and age) then vote for that person. If you don't vote then you really don't have any room to complain about the results. Either you are part of the problem or the solution. It is your choice. I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the polls this morning and placed my vote, I encourage you to do the same. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_f5.11d4b2ca.2919873b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not so long ago, I remember a thread where several folks were complaining about politicians, etc.  Well, here is your chance to do something about it!  Go out and Vote for the person who you feel best expresses your beliefs and ideals.  Many people sit around and complain but never vote.  "My vote doesn't matter," they say in their own defense, or "It's either vote for one crook or the other so why bother?"  Right now we are not voting for a presidential election.  It is mostly for Governors and local representatives (at least here in NJ).  If you don't like the people at the national level, then please remember that they started at the local level.  So if you want to stop a certain type of politician from becoming a Senator or even President, now is your chance.  If you have an idea of what a good politician should be (although "good politician" can seem like an oxymoron in our day and age) then vote for that person.  If you don't vote then you really don't have any room to complain about the results.  Either you are part of the problem or the solution.  It is your choice.  

I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the polls this morning and placed my vote, I encourage you to do the same.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
--part1_f5.11d4b2ca.2919873b_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 13:35:04 -0500 Reply-To: Jay L Snyder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jay L Snyder Subject: Re: Specs: My Kirkland Tires Comments: To: PSavage MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I believe the 2-ply is the side-wall, with 4 plies in the tread. I will double-check mine when I get home. Now they are a special-order item here in Wilmington, DE, with a "special-order" price of nearly double the $50 I paid a year ago. I wish I had bought a fifth at the time. Jay PSavage @gerry.vanagon.com> on 11/06/2001 12:36:38 PM Please respond to PSavage Sent by: Vanagon Mailing List To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM cc: Subject: Specs: My Kirkland Tires Since a few have p-mailed already, asking for this info--here it is for anybody else..... Phaedra '85 Wolfsburg Westy "Basecamp" --Give Peace A Chance Kirkland Signature LT 2ply Radial Tires LT195/75R14 93/90 Q M&S Load Range: C ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:39:26 -0800 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Organization: Shawnigan Lake School Subject: Baldwin Filters for 1.6D/TD engines Comments: To: audi-VW-Diesels@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I just got off the phone with Baldwin Filters (800-822-5394) to check whether their V2-F oil filter is a direct fit for the 1.6D and TD engines, as a few have suggested, both here and in www.TDICLUB.com forums. Here's what I was told: No, the V2-F is not correct, the B114 is the only filter suitable for the 1.6D/TD engines. The V2-F has a lower micron rating for filtering (good), but has a much lower bypass pressure of 8psi (BAD). This means that with the V2-F chances are good that much of the oil will be bypassed. The bypass pressure of the correct B114 filter is 30psi. This is important - if you know of anyone using the V2-F on a VW engine, tell them to stop and check with Baldwin. If anyone has an account at Fred's TDIClub forums, please post this info. I know several people there have talked about switching to the V2-F filter... I'll be ordering some B114s today... ======================== Shawn Wright Computer Systems Manager Shawnigan Lake School http://www.sls.bc.ca swright@sls.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:44:47 -0800 Reply-To: sanford schulwolf Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: sanford schulwolf Subject: Suspected refrigerator, internal propane leak?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello, I am seeking advice regarding my 91 syncro refrigerator propane leak. I had the refrigerator out about 2 years ago, before that point not a hent of propane had ever been detected. Lately I have intermittently smelled a very light hint of propane. The smell appears to come exclusively from the small vent under the stove, not a trace of propane from the rear vent area – thus the leak appeared to be emitted from the stove. Not so, about 3 weeks ago I got into the stove area and preformed the soap bubble test on all fittings – nothing, even did the not smart lighter test, still nothing. I did the same tests on the refrigerator and stove propane connection- again nothing. One last thing, I have a propex heater, I checked the fittings and not one leak detected. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. I would hate to pull the refrigerator out just to find it wasn’t the leak culprit. Also has anyone had an experience with a www.gasrefrigeration.net from Cranes RV in VALLEJO CA? Thank you, Baffled before winter camping, Sanford __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:44:51 -0800 Reply-To: Aristotle Sagan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Aristotle Sagan Subject: Re: VOTE! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed So if there are no elections in my neighborhood, am I excused? tim voteless in san jose >Not so long ago, I remember a thread where several folks were complaining >about politicians, etc. Well, here is your chance to do something about >it! >Go out and Vote for the person who you feel best expresses your beliefs and >ideals. Many people sit around and complain but never vote. "My vote >doesn't matter," they say in their own defense, or "It's either vote for >one >crook or the other so why bother?" Right now we are not voting for a >presidential election. It is mostly for Governors and local >representatives >(at least here in NJ). If you don't like the people at the national level, >then please remember that they started at the local level. So if you want >to >stop a certain type of politician from becoming a Senator or even >President, >now is your chance. If you have an idea of what a good politician should >be >(although "good politician" can seem like an oxymoron in our day and age) >then vote for that person. If you don't vote then you really don't have >any >room to complain about the results. Either you are part of the problem or >the solution. It is your choice. > >I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the polls this morning and placed >my >vote, I encourage you to do the same. > >Thanks, >Ken Wilford >John 3:16 >www.vanagain.com >Phone: (856)-765-1583 >Fax: (856)-327-2242 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:22:30 -0800 Reply-To: Cary Chiang Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Cary Chiang Subject: Square headlight grill with round driving lights? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-240950227-1005067350=:90315" --0-240950227-1005067350=:90315 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Listees: I have been told by at least two people that they have seen late model Vanagons (square headlights) with molded openings in their grills for round driving lights, like the South African style. Has anyone else seen this, and where might they be obtained? Cary --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume on Yahoo! Careers. --0-240950227-1005067350=:90315 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Listees:

  I have been told by at least two people that they have seen late model Vanagons (square headlights) with molded openings in their grills for round driving lights, like the South African style.  Has anyone else seen this, and where might they be obtained?

Cary



Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume on Yahoo! Careers. --0-240950227-1005067350=:90315-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:26:58 -0500 Reply-To: Jamie Ayotte Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jamie Ayotte Subject: which sealant goop is better? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" hey. i am in the middle of replacing the water pump on my 86 westy, i noticed that the old pump's gaskt had the red stuff- my roommate (owner and member of the type II list) had mentioned that he remebered seeing something about the pros and cons of each... what are my options, and which is better? red or blue? (if there is a blue) jamie 86 westy 78 vespa 98 golden retreiver (syd) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:24:07 -0800 Reply-To: Michael aka ECHO Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael aka ECHO Subject: Re: which sealant goop is better? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I prefer using the grey. There is red,blue,orange and black goop. More like glop. I'm still waiting for them to make green goop though. Mike --- Jamie Ayotte wrote: > hey. i am in the middle of replacing the water pump on my 86 > westy, i > noticed that the old pump's gaskt had the red stuff- my > roommate (owner and > member of the type II list) had mentioned that he remebered > seeing something > about the pros and cons of each... what are my options, and > which is > better? red or blue? (if there is a blue) > > jamie > > 86 westy > 78 vespa > 98 golden retreiver (syd) ===== MY first VW! 1980 Vanagon L "D'Arius" LOOK a picture!!!http://www.geocities.com/echo207/vanagon.html Need any general computer help? Computer blonde? E-mail: echo207@excite.com and I will see what I can do to help. And a DEAD 84 buick Skylark (Going to see if I can jump the California Aqueduct before this Christmas....) 78 Toyota Corona __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:52:57 EST Reply-To: EVEHART33@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ken Hunter Subject: Re: Looking for ball joint boots Comments: To: puzerewski@MSN.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_b8.1dea969f.29199999_boundary" --part1_b8.1dea969f.29199999_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have never had good luck replacing just the boots on any of my VWs. Ball or tierod, they have lasted as little as 6months no matter what I did to preserve them. But YMMV. Ken Hunter Los Lunas,NM 82 Westy 1.9NA 84 Jetta 1.5NA --part1_b8.1dea969f.29199999_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have never had good luck replacing just the boots on any of my VWs. Ball or tierod, they have lasted as little as 6months no matter what I did to preserve them. But YMMV.

Ken Hunter
Los Lunas,NM
82 Westy 1.9NA
84 Jetta 1.5NA
--part1_b8.1dea969f.29199999_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:01:46 -0600 Reply-To: Tonya Pope Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tonya Pope Organization: HoloReality, Inc. Subject: alternator nut MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hey all, I picked up an alternator from Bus Depot a little over a year ago for my 87 GL Wolfsberg. Just now getting around to installing it. The nut from my old alternator (the one that holds the pulley on) doesn't fit the new alternator. I've searched all over town and can't find anything that fits it quite right. Since it's been so long since I purchased it, didn't want to hassle them (although Ron, feel free to respond if you know the answer :) ) Figured somebody out there must have had the same trouble. Anybody know the right size & thread pattern? A source would be nice too :) Thanks, Tonya 87 GL Wolfs ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:11:32 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: sliding door pops open Comments: To: sfbmorse@webtv.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/6/01 9:54:37 AM, sfbmorse@WEBTV.NET writes: << how to fix it ?? >> sfb, At first, there are two things to check: the latch mounted to the door and the latch striker pin mounted to the door surround. Either one or both are loose or have shifted out of adjustment. If the striker has moved (likely because of all that door slamming you have been doing), it is readily seen by the outline remaining from its former location. So, after snugging up the latch fasteners, make certain the striker is residing where it was originally before any attempted adjustment. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:13:39 -0800 Reply-To: Evil Pig Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Evil Pig Subject: Re: VOTE! Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0028_01C166BC.78215620" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C166BC.78215620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yupper Ken I was one of 'em n I do drive my vanagon (content) to the = polls n vote. generally don't get represented, so I get to complain. :oP Tromper ----- Original Message -----=20 From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 10:34 AM Subject: VOTE! Not so long ago, I remember a thread where several folks were = complaining about politicians, etc. Well, here is your chance to do = something about it! Go out and Vote for the person who you feel best = expresses your beliefs and ideals. Many people sit around and complain = but never vote. "My vote doesn't matter," they say in their own = defense, or "It's either vote for one crook or the other so why bother?" = Right now we are not voting for a presidential election. It is mostly = for Governors and local representatives (at least here in NJ). If you = don't like the people at the national level, then please remember that = they started at the local level. So if you want to stop a certain type = of politician from becoming a Senator or even President, now is your = chance. If you have an idea of what a good politician should be = (although "good politician" can seem like an oxymoron in our day and = age) then vote for that person. If you don't vote then you really don't = have any room to complain about the results. Either you are part of the = problem or the solution. It is your choice. =20 I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the polls this morning and = placed my vote, I encourage you to do the same.=20 Thanks,=20 Ken Wilford=20 John 3:16=20 www.vanagain.com=20 Phone: (856)-765-1583=20 Fax: (856)-327-2242=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C166BC.78215620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Yupper Ken I was one of 'em n I do = drive my vanagon=20 (content) to the polls n vote.
generally don't get represented, so I = get=20 to
complain. :oP
Tromper
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 KENWILFY@AOL.COM=20
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, = 2001 10:34=20 AM
Subject: VOTE!

Not so long = ago, I=20 remember a thread where several folks were complaining about = politicians, etc.=20  Well, here is your chance to do something about it!  Go out = and=20 Vote for the person who you feel best expresses your beliefs and = ideals.=20  Many people sit around and complain but never vote.  "My = vote=20 doesn't matter," they say in their own defense, or "It's either vote = for one=20 crook or the other so why bother?"  Right now we are not voting = for a=20 presidential election.  It is mostly for Governors and local=20 representatives (at least here in NJ).  If you don't like the = people at=20 the national level, then please remember that they started at the = local level.=20  So if you want to stop a certain type of politician from = becoming a=20 Senator or even President, now is your chance.  If you have an = idea of=20 what a good politician should be (although "good politician" can seem = like an=20 oxymoron in our day and age) then vote for that person.  If you = don't=20 vote then you really don't have any room to complain about the = results.=20  Either you are part of the problem or the solution.  It is = your=20 choice.  

I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the = polls this=20 morning and placed my vote, I encourage you to do the same. =

Thanks,=20
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: = (856)-765-1583=20
Fax: (856)-327-2242
------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C166BC.78215620-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:16:21 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: which sealant goop is better? Comments: To: jayotte@destefanoarchitects.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/6/01 2:17:32 PM, jayotte@DESTEFANOARCHITECTS.COM writes: << better? red or blue? (if there is a blue) >> Jamie, For the H2O pump? Niether, it uses an O-ring. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:37:59 -0500 Reply-To: Vanagon Man Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Vanagon Man Subject: Re: tranny rebuild: AA Vs. Rancho Performance Comments: To: The Bus Depot Sam at Rancho is a straight shooter. You will not get ripped off on the core charge. I have used them for several transmissions in mine and customers cars and had no problems. Turn-around time is reasonable even considering the freight. Adam P 81 westy (3 of them) 74 beetle 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) 70 Single Cab "Whitey" Vanagon Partsmobiles ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Bus Depot" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 12:19 PM Subject: Re: tranny rebuild: AA Vs. Rancho Performance > > I was just checking out a clutch kit on Busdepot.com and came across this: > > > > We offer rebuilt transaxles from Rancho Performance, one of the industry > > leaders. These affordably priced rebuilds carry a 12 month/12,000 mile > > factory warranty. Transaxle, Rebuilt, Rancho Performance, Syncro, excl > > transfer case, Exchange (you send your unit to be rebuilt) $999.95. > > > What does excl transfer case mean??? seriously...do they just send the > > trans without the Low/Rev assy and front output shaft??? > > > Of course I cannot comment on AA (except to say that Daryl's reputation is > quite good). But with regard to Rancho, I can say that have been dealing > with them for several years and have had nothing but good experience with > their work and their professionalism. I have yet to receive a single > warranty claim. They have been very honest with core deposits (as compared > to some less-scrupulous rebuilders, who somehow manage to find something > wrong with every core so they do not have to refund all of your deposit). > In two cases where a transmission reached a customer with signs of shipping > damage, they replaced it first and asked questions later. > > In the case of the non-Syncro trans, you can either send yours in to be > rebuilt (for $879.95 plus shipping), or buy one up front for the same price > plus a $475 core deposit which is refunded upon return of your rebuildable > trans. But in the case of a Syncro trans, they rarely have good cores to > rebuild, so generally you must send yours in first. (Even when they do have > a good core to rebuild, they charge a $1000 core deposit because they are so > hard to come by!) The price of $999 plus shipping includes rebuilding the > trans itself but not the transfer case section. However, it does include the > cost of disassembling, cleaning, inspecting, and resealing the transfer case > and output shaft, so that they can inspect it for wear or damage. If close > inspection determines that the internals of the transfer case do need to be > rebuilt, they quote on that separately based on what needs to be done, as it > is not included in the $999 price. However, if the majority of the wear is > in the transaxle section itself, it's $999. I can recall one instance where > they did contact the customer regarding the transfer case, and several where > they determined that the $999 rebuild was all the customers needed (and > indeed the customers have not reported further problems). > > - Ron Salmon > The Bus Depot, Inc. > (215) 234-VWVW > www.busdepot.com > > _____________________________________________ > Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:54:31 -0800 Reply-To: gary hradek Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: gary hradek Subject: ebay plasma blue headlights MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to time. Are they any better than just replacing my aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the low beams that give me problems. thanks gary __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:09:50 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Dan's Diesel Rebuild Part 8 Comments: To: Dan Snow Dan, I used a 2x4 as a hoist for my 2.1, but not the sawhorse setup. I screwed a second piece of wood across the end of a 4' 2x4, making a tee (this was for stability). I then used a wood chisel to hollow out a place in the 2x4 to give a secure spot to place the top of a bottle jack (placed on the opposite side of the engine compartment). I then wrapped a chain around the 2x4 and bolted it to the engine. This gave me the ability to raise and lower the rear of the engine (with the crossmember bolted in) so that aligning and fastening the tranny was a piece of cake. This setup was for tranny installation, and may not apply for your engine install. YMMV, etc. Is this clear? Karl Wolz > > I went to ACE hardware and bought sawhorse brackets, and built a sawhorse > out of 2 x 4 wood. It fits in the back of the van, straddling the engine > cover. My plan is to hang the chain hoist from this derrick, and do the > engine lowering and lifting with it. I am pretty proud of myself. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:11:49 EST Reply-To: Calwolfie@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Dawson Subject: Re: Looking for ball joint boots Comments: To: puzerewski@MSN.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, Energy Suspension makes some great polyeurathane replacment boots for tie rod ends and ball joints. They come in different colors and four different sizes. They can be had from your local speed shop and cost about $4 a pair. The eurathane holds up much better than rubber!! I had written down the correct size but can't put my fingers on it right now. Sorry. Good luck, Kevin Dawson ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:20:16 -0400 Reply-To: Malcolm Stebbins Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Malcolm Stebbins Organization: Mount Saint Vincent University Subject: Re: Removal of sliding window screens Comments: To: Vanagon Man In-Reply-To: <004501c166a7$8ed3c7a0$3c8b393f@cc414811b> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Here's how I do it: Fully open the sliding window, go outside of the van and press down (and into the van) on the BOTTOM of the plastic screen frame. If you can see where the 2 little plastic clips are (on the screen frame), press there (about 1/3 to 1/4 of the way in, along the bottom). The screen will POP out, down, and into the van. Good luck. Malcolm On 6 Nov 2001, at 4:43, Vanagon Man wrote: > Volks, > Any secrets to getting them out without busting them? > > > Adam P > 81 westy (3 of them) > 74 beetle > 73 Transporter (at paint shop!) > 70 Single Cab "Whitey" > Vanagon Partsmobiles ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 13:35:07 -0800 Reply-To: ID Workshop Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: ID Workshop Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights In-Reply-To: <20011106205431.44290.qmail@web14703.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I have been wondering the same thing. I have been planning on upgrading my Synchro's lighting for some time. However, I am skeptical of these bulbs and their Performance claims. It seems to good (and cheap) to be true. Plus I don't want to get caught up in the blue lights/huge exhaust pipe fad that is sweeping the nations motoring youth. I just want brighter, safer and mostly legal lighting. I'd be interested in anyone else's experiences. Jon > I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but > does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the > plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to > time. Are they any better than just replacing my > aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone > purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the > low beams that give me problems. thanks gary > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:58:15 -0600 Reply-To: Donald Baxter Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Donald Baxter Subject: Vanagon Westfalia for sale in Iowa City, IA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From the Daily Disappointment (otherwise known as the Iowa City Press-Citizen) today: VW Vanagon GL 1986. Camper Van, 156K runs good (well?) 4th gear wearing, a/c out; camoing equip/bunks in good shape, cool sound system, $4995 OBO. (319) 354-3287. (It's not mine, I haven't seen it although if you're really serious about wanting a Vanagon Camper, I could be persuaded to go look at it) _____ Donald Baxter Iowa City, Iowa (319) 337-0494 www.mindspring.com/~onanov "I respect faith, but doubt is what gets you an education." -- Wislon Mizner All Johnson County Reads the Same Book: http://www.uichr.org/features/reading/index.shtml ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:05:02 -0500 Reply-To: Chad G Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad G Subject: Help!! Van Dies..... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All, If it isn't one thing going wrong its another.........this van keeps me busy!!! Just recently my 85GL started to die. I could be driving along and it would buck and just shut down. It occurs more when sitting at red lights or idling. But so far it started right back up and on I went. Here is what I did to "try" to fix it. I though it may be my fuel pump slowly dying.....so I swaped it out with a know good one. No improvement. I checked to see if the ground was screwed.....seemed fine. I looked at the wire that connects into the harness for any visible damage.....none that I can see........ any ideas, I'm going to replace the plugs today just in case???????? let me know of other things to check, thanks, Chad 85GL's ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:10:21 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Corvalis Or. person looking at syncro in Spokane Read this!! Comments: To: wet westys , Syncro@yahoogroups.com, syncro-org@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII This is just a heads up... There is an 86 syncro for sale in spokane (www.autotrader.com) that i just looked at. Someone is buying it from Corvalis Oregon sight unseen (i turned it down). IF YOU ARE THE PERSON WHO IS BUYING THIS BUS OR KNOW THE PERSON WHO IS BUYING THIS BUS PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME ASAP! I am prepared to get flamed to cinders, but i think this is very important (see below) Thanks Matthew 208-885-2746 <<<<< this is pretty rough on her, i'm sorry >>>>>> Reason being- the owner is totally dishonest. Engine leaks oil ("no leaks"), lots of rust ("no rust"), VC is shot, hard to find second gear, wrong tires (passanger tires) inside is thrashed, there NO coolant in the pressure or overflow tank & the inside of the bus smells sweet. There master cylinder drips fluid, the power steering pump whines (really really loud), the rack and pinion is covered in fresh oil (see the previous one), at least 3 cv's are bad, the ski racks are BOLTED onto (through!) the drivers side body, seats are thrashed (missing arm rests, seat belts shredded, ripped cushion, no "oh shit" handles in back). The rear bumper is pushed in so far that you can't flip down the liscense plate, no bumper endcaps, mud-flaps are all flappy, oil pressure light blinks ("Oh, it's been doing that since we put the new "factory rebuilt engine" into it").. GEX engine (Not VW factory rebuilt)... I can keep going, but will stop here. If you want to know more, please feel free to email me. As you can see i was quite preterbed. She FULL OUT lied to me- i asked very specific questions and she answerd with the best sounding answer. Some of these items are very minor, but the big ones are very serious and a 'new' owner should know about them before they write a check. Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:12:22 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: Help!! Van Dies..... Comments: To: Chad G In-Reply-To: <01df01c1670f$16ad21a0$76a29a8e@chad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII how about the catalytic converter? Does it die ONLY when warm or wheneve? Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, Chad G wrote: > Hi All, > If it isn't one thing going wrong its another.........this van keeps me > busy!!! Just recently my 85GL started to die. I could be driving along and > it would buck and just shut down. It occurs more when sitting at red lights > or idling. But so far it started right back up and on I went. Here is what > I did to "try" to fix it. I though it may be my fuel pump slowly > dying.....so I swaped it out with a know good one. No improvement. I > checked to see if the ground was screwed.....seemed fine. I looked at the > wire that connects into the harness for any visible damage.....none that I > can see........ > > any ideas, I'm going to replace the plugs today just in case???????? > > let me know of other things to check, > > thanks, > Chad 85GL's > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:16:00 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights Comments: To: gary hradek In-Reply-To: <20011106205431.44290.qmail@web14703.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII this has been discussed here (a year+ ago i think). Basicially, these are just halogen lights that have some coating on them to look white (they add blue to the light). I'd stick away from them as they are missing important parts of the visable spectrum to see well. The military did a bunch of research on them...Unless you get the power supplies and stuff from a high end rig (audi, benz, caddy...) then these are better for sitting back and avoiding... _matthew Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, gary hradek wrote: > I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but > does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the > plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to > time. Are they any better than just replacing my > aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone > purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the > low beams that give me problems. thanks gary > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:19:43 -0600 Reply-To: Donald Baxter Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Donald Baxter Subject: Re: Help!! Van Dies..... Comments: To: Chad G In-Reply-To: <01df01c1670f$16ad21a0$76a29a8e@chad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My vote is a bad Hall Sender. See if you can swap distributors with someone. That cured my 85GL from doing this. DB -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Chad G Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 4:05 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Help!! Van Dies..... Hi All, If it isn't one thing going wrong its another.........this van keeps me busy!!! Just recently my 85GL started to die. I could be driving along and it would buck and just shut down. It occurs more when sitting at red lights or idling. But so far it started right back up and on I went. Here is what I did to "try" to fix it. I though it may be my fuel pump slowly dying.....so I swaped it out with a know good one. No improvement. I checked to see if the ground was screwed.....seemed fine. I looked at the wire that connects into the harness for any visible damage.....none that I can see........ any ideas, I'm going to replace the plugs today just in case???????? let me know of other things to check, thanks, Chad 85GL's ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:55:19 +1100 Reply-To: Ray Hunnam Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ray Hunnam Subject: Removal of glass in sliding window Comments: To: Malcolm Stebbins MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Malcolm Lets take this one step further. Any ideas how to remove the glass from the window frames, without resorting to a hammer. I am thinking of anodising my aluminium frames to black and will need for the glass to be removed. Anyone have the clues on how its done. Ray Hunnam Penrith Australia. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:59:24 -0500 Reply-To: Maynard Southard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maynard Southard Subject: On the Road home and need help getting there! Volks: This is not as bad as Theresa's story (although the Reinhardt name has got me worried!) Ok, I picked up my newly acquired Diesel Double Cab in San Antonio on Saturday (I have really gone way over the Vanagon Nut edge - 3 different Vanagon Diesels?) I have made it to Nashville today (Tuesday) on my way back to New England (1100 more miles). Gotta be there by Friday evening for my son's football game. I'm making good time, travelling an average of 58 mph. The 1.6L NA is doing fine (of course, I haven't hit the mountains in VA yet.) I spent all day Sunday in TX checking the vehicle over for the trip. I found the brake fluid reservoir was low. Brakes and clutch felt fine. I added DOT 4 to a level between the indicated min and max. Everything's ok ... so I left yesterday (Monday). About 100 miles ago (I've traveled 900 by this point), I pull into an Exxon to fill up (first two tanks full have gotten me 30+ mpg!) I coast to a stop with the clutch in and then just as I apply the brakes for the final stop (clutch still in) it feels like the clutch engages as I hit the brakes (clutch grab). I don't think much of it. Fill up and ready to go. I start up and push in the clutch to get into first. The pedal seems pretty easy to push (more than I remember) and then the clutch seems to release very quickly as I pull out. I then have a small amount of difficulty getting into second gear, but no trouble with 3rd or 4th and I am on my way. Next stop (20 miles ago) I pay closer attention and it seems the clutch is not completely disengaging as I shift in reverse, first or second. I pulled off the instrument cover and the brake fluid reservoir seems to be at the right level. I'm a little worried, as tomorrow I will hit the smokies and blue ridge mountains of I-40 and I-81. Question: does it sound like my clutch slave cylinder needs to be bled? If so, must I have a partner to do this? What steps do I take (is it like the pedal pushing brake bleed)? Or does it mean that my slave cylinder is bad? I've checked for leaks, but see no evidence. The brakes are still good. Is it possible the clutch is the problem (no slipping noticed)? Any helpful advice will be appreciated. I have a hotel room for the night and some dark hours to contemplate. Thanks. Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 '86 Diesel Double Cab "Col. Potter" '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" '82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" '93 EV GL "Klinger" '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:50:59 -0800 Reply-To: Dan Snow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dan Snow Subject: Re: On the Road home and need help getting there! Comments: To: echomhs@GIS.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I just helped my little brother bleed his Honda's hydraulic clutch. We bought a $5.00 "single person" brake bleed kit from FLAPS. It consists of a little plastic bottle and some clear tubing and some fittings. Follow the directions. The tube fits on a nipple on the bleed nut, and you put a little fluid in the bottle to get started. The idea generally is to open the bleed nut at the slave cylinder end, push down the pedal, close the bleed nut, pull the pedal back up, repeat. This flushes out the fluid with its bubbles. You must pause periodically to fill the reservior. Alternatively, you could attain folk hero status by driving the rest of the way with no clutch. Shifting is alright, as long as you match engine revs with road speed for the desired gear. Apply a little pressure to the shift lever toward the desired gear, and it will slip in with no grinding when the proper RPM - road speed combination is reached. GOOD LUCK... Daniel Snow PhD Student UC Berkeley '82 Vanagon Diesel '78 Puch Maxi Luxe Moped '01 Xootr Scooter _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:02:08 -0800 Reply-To: Aristotle Sagan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Aristotle Sagan Subject: Re: On the Road home and need help getting there! Comments: To: echomhs@GIS.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed M, The brakes will be good. The system takes the clutch fluid off the top of the resevior, the brakes from the bottom. Clever Germans. If you don't see a leak, there probably isn't one. I think I bled the brakes on my 84 with a 2x4 between the seat pedestle and the clutch pedal. Check level of fluid, press clutch and keep depressed with 2x4. Go back and loosen bleed valve, let bleed and then tighten... let clutch pedal up. Repeat sequence, including checking level. Best of luck. BTW, is there an adjustment for the slave to clutch arm? Perhaps that is marginal and just a little out of adjustment? tim o'brien (nothing near as exotic as a diesel twin) (84 WB) (83 AC) (81 Westy) >Volks: > >This is not as bad as Theresa's story (although the Reinhardt name has got >me >worried!) > >Ok, I picked up my newly acquired Diesel Double Cab in San Antonio on >Saturday >(I have really gone way over the Vanagon Nut edge - 3 different Vanagon >Diesels?) I have made it to Nashville today (Tuesday) on my way back to >New >England (1100 more miles). Gotta be there by Friday evening for my son's >football game. I'm making good time, travelling an average of 58 mph. The >1.6L NA is doing fine (of course, I haven't hit the mountains in VA yet.) > >I spent all day Sunday in TX checking the vehicle over for the trip. I >found >the brake fluid reservoir was low. Brakes and clutch felt fine. I added >DOT 4 >to a level between the indicated min and max. Everything's ok ... so I >left >yesterday (Monday). > >About 100 miles ago (I've traveled 900 by this point), I pull into an Exxon >to >fill up (first two tanks full have gotten me 30+ mpg!) I coast to a stop >with >the clutch in and then just as I apply the brakes for the final stop >(clutch >still in) it feels like the clutch engages as I hit the brakes (clutch >grab). > I don't think much of it. Fill up and ready to go. > >I start up and push in the clutch to get into first. The pedal seems >pretty >easy to push (more than I remember) and then the clutch seems to release >very >quickly as I pull out. I then have a small amount of difficulty getting >into >second gear, but no trouble with 3rd or 4th and I am on my way. > >Next stop (20 miles ago) I pay closer attention and it seems the clutch is >not >completely disengaging as I shift in reverse, first or second. I pulled >off >the instrument cover and the brake fluid reservoir seems to be at the right >level. I'm a little worried, as tomorrow I will hit the smokies and blue >ridge >mountains of I-40 and I-81. > >Question: does it sound like my clutch slave cylinder needs to be bled? >If >so, must I have a partner to do this? What steps do I take (is it like the >pedal pushing brake bleed)? Or does it mean that my slave cylinder is bad? > I've checked for leaks, but see no evidence. The brakes are still good. >Is >it possible the clutch is the problem (no slipping noticed)? > >Any helpful advice will be appreciated. I have a hotel room for the night >and >some dark hours to contemplate. Thanks. > >Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 >'86 Diesel Double Cab "Col. Potter" >'82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" >'82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" >'93 EV GL "Klinger" >'00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" >'84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:10:06 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: guage wiring question. Comments: To: earthboy@HOME.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

When I installed my oil pressure gauge I just took a test lite to the fuse box and found the proper circuit that gave power when I needed it. For example "back lite " for gauge should be on headlite circuit. Ignition power is also found on fuse panel. Then look at back of panel and tap into wire. Or be lazy like me and just put wire in with fuse (this is not recomended and can cause that fuse station to cut out intermitantly). I plan to fix mine when I have more time! Good luck.

Randy Charrette 
87' Syncro weekender

>From: Greg Marshall
>Reply-To: Greg Marshall
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: guage wiring question.
>Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:27:42 -0500
>
>Hello van heads...
>
>When I'm running power to my new dash guages, where should I draw it
>from? Also, for drawing power for the guage back lamps, can I run power
>from the wires that run to the heater control back lamp? Will I blow
>any fuses doing this?
>
>thanks folks,
>
>Greg.


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========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:28:20 -0500 Reply-To: "Christopher T. Berchin" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Christopher T. Berchin" Subject: Source for Agilis 51 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0072_01C166F9.314B68C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01C166F9.314B68C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi everyone. I didn't want to post this until I actually had tires in = my hands, and now I do. I was able to get a set of 205/65-15 Michelin = Agilis 51's from the following link: http://www.militarytiresales.com/main.asp?page=3Dhome They were on sale when I bought them via the web, and including shipping = I beat Tire Rack by about $35. Their shipping prices are more than Tire = Rack, though, so if the tire sale is over, they may not be cheapest. = But bottom line is they got me the tires. They were friendly enough, = too - they are connected to Homann Tire stores in Texas. Chris ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01C166F9.314B68C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi everyone.  I didn't want to post this until I actually had = tires in=20 my hands, and now I do.  I was able to get a set of 205/65-15 = Michelin=20 Agilis 51's from the following link:
 
http://www= .militarytiresales.com/main.asp?page=3Dhome
 
They were on sale when I bought them via the web, and including = shipping I=20 beat Tire Rack by about $35.  Their shipping prices are more than = Tire=20 Rack, though, so if the tire sale is over, they may not be = cheapest.  But=20 bottom line is they got me the tires.  They were friendly enough, = too -=20 they are connected to Homann Tire stores in Texas.

Chris
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0072_01C166F9.314B68C0-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:21:41 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: On the Road home and need help getting there! Comments: To: echomhs@GIS.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

I would try the bleed, but doubt that that is your problem. If you lost the bleed there would be fluid somewhere. The only other place to possibly lose it would be at the cap? If bleeding does not do it my money is on the pressure plate (yikes!). How many miles on that clutch?

Randy Charrette

87' Syncro

>From: Maynard Southard
>Reply-To: Maynard Southard
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: On the Road home and need help getting there!
>Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:59:24 -0500
>
>Volks:
>
>This is not as bad as Theresa's story (although the Reinhardt name has got me
>worried!)
>
>Ok, I picked up my newly acquired Diesel Double Cab in San Antonio on Saturday
>(I have really gone way over the Vanagon Nut edge - 3 different Vanagon
>Diesels?) I have made it to Nashville today (Tuesday) on my way back to New
>England (1100 more miles). Gotta be there by Friday evening for my son's
>football game. I'm making good time, travelling an average of 58 mph. The
>1.6L NA is doing fine (of course, I haven't hit the mountains in VA yet.)
>
>I spent all day Sunday in TX checking the vehicle over for the trip. I found
>the brake fluid reservoir was low. Brakes and clutch felt fine. I added DOT 4
>to a level between the indicated min and max. Everything's ok ... so I left
>yesterday (Monday).
>
>About 100 miles ago (I've traveled 900 by this point), I pull into an Exxon to
>fill up (first two tanks full have gotten me 30+ mpg!) I coast to a stop with
>the clutch in and then just as I apply the brakes for the final stop (clutch
>still in) it feels like the clutch engages as I hit the brakes (clutch grab).
> I don't think much of it. Fill up and ready to go.
>
>I start up and push in the clutch to get into first. The pedal seems pretty
>easy to push (more than I remember) and then the clutch seems to release very
>quickly as I pull out. I then have a small amount of difficulty getting into
>second gear, but no trouble with 3rd or 4th and I am on my way.
>
>Next stop (20 miles ago) I pay closer attention and it seems the clutch is not
>completely disengaging as I shift in reverse, first or second. I pulled off
>the instrument cover and the brake fluid reservoir seems to be at the right
>level. I'm a little worried, as tomorrow I will hit the smokies and blue ridge
>mountains of I-40 and I-81.
>
>Question: does it sound like my clutch slave cylinder needs to be bled? If
>so, must I have a partner to do this? What steps do I take (is it like the
>pedal pushing brake bleed)? Or does it mean that my slave cylinder is bad?
> I've checked for leaks, but see no evidence. The brakes are still good. Is
>it possible the clutch is the problem (no slipping noticed)?
>
>Any helpful advice will be appreciated. I have a hotel room for the night and
>some dark hours to contemplate. Thanks.
>
>Maynard Southard (OvO) '79
>'86 Diesel Double Cab "Col. Potter"
>'82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt"
>'82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo"
>'93 EV GL "Klinger"
>'00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo"
>'84 Jetta GL TD "Donor"


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========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:50:27 -0600 Reply-To: John Rodgers Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Rodgers Subject: Re: Help!! Van Dies..... Comments: To: Chad G MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chad G wrote: > Hi All, > If it isn't one thing going wrong its another.........this van keeps me > busy!!! Just recently my 85GL started to die. I could be driving along and > it would buck and just shut down. It occurs more when sitting at red lights > or idling. But so far it started right back up and on I went. Here is what > I did to "try" to fix it. I though it may be my fuel pump slowly > dying.....so I swaped it out with a know good one. No improvement. I > checked to see if the ground was screwed.....seemed fine. I looked at the > wire that connects into the harness for any visible damage.....none that I > can see........ > > any ideas, I'm going to replace the plugs today just in case???????? > > let me know of other things to check, Try disconnecting your idle stabilizer valve. Mine is disconnected now because it was causing me some some similar grief. John Rodgers 88 GL Driver ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:02:54 -0800 Reply-To: 80 Westy Pokey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: 80 Westy Pokey Subject: Re: Source for Agilis 51 Comments: To: ctb1@PEOPLEPC.COM Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 So what was the price per tire? Did they have the 215/65R15? Thanks, Chris From: "Christopher T. Berchin" Reply-To: "Christopher T. Berchin" Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:28:20 -0500 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Source for Agilis 51 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi everyone. I didn't want to post this until I actually had tires in my hands, and now I do. I was able to get a set of 205/65-15 Michelin Agilis 51's from the following link: http://www.militarytiresales.com/main.asp?page=home They were on sale when I bought them via the web, and including shipping I beat Tire Rack by about $35. Their shipping prices are more than Tire Rack, though, so if the tire sale is over, they may not be cheapest. But bottom line is they got me the tires. They were friendly enough, too - they are connected to Homann Tire stores in Texas. Chris Thanks, Chris Gronski '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:10:46 -0800 Reply-To: Myron Lind Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Myron Lind Subject: Re: On the Road home and need help getting there! Comments: To: Maynard Southard Maynard. I don't know the answers to any of your questions, although I would be inclined to bleed the clutch slave. I would guess air could have gotten into the system is the fluid was low. I don't know how that would make the clutch engage as you push the brake, although it would make the pedal push easy because you would be compressing the air instead of disengaging the clutch. I have always had one person push the pedal while I bleed the slave cylinder. If you get into a bind, I have a bike shop at exit 247B on I-81 in VA (go 0.6miles once you are off the interstate, we are on the right side). I believe I have a slave and clutch master still, both off a 86 syncro (would these even fit?), if you would end up needing either. I could also offer a creeper. a few tools, shower, etc. Unfortunately, I don't have much to offer for overnight accommodations, although there is a hotel several hundred yards up the hill. My cell phone is 540-476-1407 if you need it. Good Luck! Myron Lind 81 Westy ----- Original Message ----- From: Maynard Southard To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:59 PM Subject: On the Road home and need help getting there! > Volks: > > This is not as bad as Theresa's story (although the Reinhardt name has got me > worried!) > > Ok, I picked up my newly acquired Diesel Double Cab in San Antonio on Saturday > (I have really gone way over the Vanagon Nut edge - 3 different Vanagon > Diesels?) I have made it to Nashville today (Tuesday) on my way back to New > England (1100 more miles). Gotta be there by Friday evening for my son's > football game. I'm making good time, travelling an average of 58 mph. The > 1.6L NA is doing fine (of course, I haven't hit the mountains in VA yet.) > > I spent all day Sunday in TX checking the vehicle over for the trip. I found > the brake fluid reservoir was low. Brakes and clutch felt fine. I added DOT 4 > to a level between the indicated min and max. Everything's ok ... so I left > yesterday (Monday). > > About 100 miles ago (I've traveled 900 by this point), I pull into an Exxon to > fill up (first two tanks full have gotten me 30+ mpg!) I coast to a stop with > the clutch in and then just as I apply the brakes for the final stop (clutch > still in) it feels like the clutch engages as I hit the brakes (clutch grab). > I don't think much of it. Fill up and ready to go. > > I start up and push in the clutch to get into first. The pedal seems pretty > easy to push (more than I remember) and then the clutch seems to release very > quickly as I pull out. I then have a small amount of difficulty getting into > second gear, but no trouble with 3rd or 4th and I am on my way. > > Next stop (20 miles ago) I pay closer attention and it seems the clutch is not > completely disengaging as I shift in reverse, first or second. I pulled off > the instrument cover and the brake fluid reservoir seems to be at the right > level. I'm a little worried, as tomorrow I will hit the smokies and blue ridge > mountains of I-40 and I-81. > > Question: does it sound like my clutch slave cylinder needs to be bled? If > so, must I have a partner to do this? What steps do I take (is it like the > pedal pushing brake bleed)? Or does it mean that my slave cylinder is bad? > I've checked for leaks, but see no evidence. The brakes are still good. Is > it possible the clutch is the problem (no slipping noticed)? > > Any helpful advice will be appreciated. I have a hotel room for the night and > some dark hours to contemplate. Thanks. > > Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 > '86 Diesel Double Cab "Col. Potter" > '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" > '82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" > '93 EV GL "Klinger" > '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" > '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:14:05 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Sheflo Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Sheflo Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights Comments: To: gary hradek , idworkshop@HOME.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anyone interested in these lights in general should check out Daniel Stern's website. http://lighting.mbz.org Specific to the current discussion of blue bulbs is this page. http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/bulbs/blue/ Hope this helps! Mark 82 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:24:31 -0500 Reply-To: "Christopher T. Berchin" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Christopher T. Berchin" Subject: Re: Source for Agilis 51 Comments: To: 80 Westy Pokey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I paid $88 plus $12.50 per tire for shipping. Tire Rack will charge around $7 per tire for shipping and $102 per tire, for comparison. Michelin doesn't import the 215/65-15 into the US, so they didn't have it. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "80 Westy Pokey" To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 8:02 PM Subject: Re: Source for Agilis 51 > So what was the price per tire? Did they have the 215/65R15? > > Thanks, > Chris > > From: "Christopher T. Berchin" > Reply-To: "Christopher T. Berchin" > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:28:20 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Source for Agilis 51 > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ > > > Hi everyone. I didn't want to post this until I actually had tires in my hands, and now I do. I was able to get a set of 205/65-15 Michelin Agilis 51's from the following link: > > http://www.militarytiresales.com/main.asp?page=home > > They were on sale when I bought them via the web, and including shipping I beat Tire Rack by about $35. Their shipping prices are more than Tire Rack, though, so if the tire sale is over, they may not be cheapest. But bottom line is they got me the tires. They were friendly enough, too - they are connected to Homann Tire stores in Texas. > > Chris > > > > Thanks, > Chris Gronski > '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY > '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer > '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:19:53 -1000 Reply-To: "Cadabes, Ruben G (PWCPEARL)" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Cadabes, Ruben G (PWCPEARL)" Subject: replacing muffler MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" hi all, I'm planning to replace my muffler this this weekend on my 90 carat. got all the parts muffler,gaskets etc. Just one question, between the side exhaust elbow & side connector pipe there's an exhaust donut (metal ring), is there suppose to be some kinda sealant or just a metal to metal application? the reason I ask is the way I look at it, I'll have to remove it from that point to remove the muffler and replace all the (3) gaskets. Just want to make sure I got all the parts needed to put the new muffler back. Thanks, ruben...... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:31:39 -0500 Reply-To: Joe Romas Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Joe Romas Subject: Re: VOTE! Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0146_01C16702.09F98EB0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0146_01C16702.09F98EB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ken After dinner I walked by my Vanagon with it's new head gaskets and = exhaust system (content) on my way to the polling place, 2 blocks away. = We have the duty to vote and those who don't can't compalin! Joe=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 1:34 PM Subject: VOTE! Not so long ago, I remember a thread where several folks were = complaining about politicians, etc. Well, here is your chance to do = something about it! Go out and Vote for the person who you feel best = expresses your beliefs and ideals. Many people sit around and complain = but never vote. "My vote doesn't matter," they say in their own = defense, or "It's either vote for one crook or the other so why bother?" = Right now we are not voting for a presidential election. It is mostly = for Governors and local representatives (at least here in NJ). If you = don't like the people at the national level, then please remember that = they started at the local level. So if you want to stop a certain type = of politician from becoming a Senator or even President, now is your = chance. If you have an idea of what a good politician should be = (although "good politician" can seem like an oxymoron in our day a! nd = age) then vote for that person. If you don't vote then you really don't = have any room to complain about the results. Either you are part of the = problem or the solution. It is your choice. =20 I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the polls this morning and = placed my vote, I encourage you to do the same.=20 Thanks,=20 Ken Wilford=20 John 3:16=20 www.vanagain.com=20 Phone: (856)-765-1583=20 Fax: (856)-327-2242=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0146_01C16702.09F98EB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ken
 
    After dinner I = walked by my=20 Vanagon with it's new head gaskets and exhaust system (content) on my = way to the=20 polling place, 2 blocks away. We have the duty to vote and those who = don't can't=20 compalin!
 
Joe 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 KENWILFY@AOL.COM=20
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, = 2001 1:34=20 PM
Subject: VOTE!

Not so long = ago, I=20 remember a thread where several folks were complaining about = politicians, etc.=20  Well, here is your chance to do something about it!  Go out = and=20 Vote for the person who you feel best expresses your beliefs and = ideals.=20  Many people sit around and complain but never vote.  "My = vote=20 doesn't matter," they say in their own defense, or "It's either vote = for one=20 crook or the other so why bother?"  Right now we are not voting = for a=20 presidential election.  It is mostly for Governors and local=20 representatives (at least here in NJ).  If you don't like the = people at=20 the national level, then please remember that they started at the = local level.=20  So if you want to stop a certain type of politician from = becoming a=20 Senator or even President, now is your chance.  If you have an = idea of=20 what a good politician should be (although "good politician" can seem = like an=20 oxymoron in our day a! nd age) then vote for that person.  If you = don't=20 vote then you really don't have any room to complain about the = results.=20  Either you are part of the problem or the solution.  It is = your=20 choice.  

I already drove my Vanagon (content) to the = polls this=20 morning and placed my vote, I encourage you to do the same. =

Thanks,=20
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: = (856)-765-1583=20
Fax: (856)-327-2242
------=_NextPart_000_0146_01C16702.09F98EB0-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:44:48 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights & replies on top. Comments: To: gary hradek In-Reply-To: <20011106205431.44290.qmail@web14703.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit on 11/6/01 12:54 PM, gary hradek at hradek@YAHOO.COM wrote: > I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but > does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the > plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to > time. Are they any better than just replacing my > aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone > purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the > low beams that give me problems. thanks gary > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com > Mathew's correct, as usual. Does anyone know how to get replies to go on top of messages? I just switched from Outlook Express to Entourage. Mike ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:05:09 -0800 Reply-To: Don Hundt Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Don Hundt Subject: Re: On the Road home and need help getting there! Comments: To: Maynard Southard MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maynard, Mine did something similar when the clutch master cylinder went out. Do you see anything leaking ont the carpet under the pedals? If it just needs to be bled and you are working alone, here is what i did. get about 10 feet of aquarium tubing (1/8 or so flexible rubber tube), slip one end over the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, put the other end in a jar or cup or whatever you have on the ground by the driver's door. open the valve, pump the pedal, watch for air bubbles. when all bubbles are gone, tighten the valve. you don't have to worry about air getting back into the line, there will be enough air-free fluid in the tubing, so you don't have to hurry. Good luck, Don ----- Original Message ----- From: Maynard Southard To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:59 PM Subject: On the Road home and need help getting there! > Volks: > > This is not as bad as Theresa's story (although the Reinhardt name has got me > worried!) > > Ok, I picked up my newly acquired Diesel Double Cab in San Antonio on Saturday > (I have really gone way over the Vanagon Nut edge - 3 different Vanagon > Diesels?) I have made it to Nashville today (Tuesday) on my way back to New > England (1100 more miles). Gotta be there by Friday evening for my son's > football game. I'm making good time, travelling an average of 58 mph. The > 1.6L NA is doing fine (of course, I haven't hit the mountains in VA yet.) > > I spent all day Sunday in TX checking the vehicle over for the trip. I found > the brake fluid reservoir was low. Brakes and clutch felt fine. I added DOT 4 > to a level between the indicated min and max. Everything's ok ... so I left > yesterday (Monday). > > About 100 miles ago (I've traveled 900 by this point), I pull into an Exxon to > fill up (first two tanks full have gotten me 30+ mpg!) I coast to a stop with > the clutch in and then just as I apply the brakes for the final stop (clutch > still in) it feels like the clutch engages as I hit the brakes (clutch grab). > I don't think much of it. Fill up and ready to go. > > I start up and push in the clutch to get into first. The pedal seems pretty > easy to push (more than I remember) and then the clutch seems to release very > quickly as I pull out. I then have a small amount of difficulty getting into > second gear, but no trouble with 3rd or 4th and I am on my way. > > Next stop (20 miles ago) I pay closer attention and it seems the clutch is not > completely disengaging as I shift in reverse, first or second. I pulled off > the instrument cover and the brake fluid reservoir seems to be at the right > level. I'm a little worried, as tomorrow I will hit the smokies and blue ridge > mountains of I-40 and I-81. > > Question: does it sound like my clutch slave cylinder needs to be bled? If > so, must I have a partner to do this? What steps do I take (is it like the > pedal pushing brake bleed)? Or does it mean that my slave cylinder is bad? > I've checked for leaks, but see no evidence. The brakes are still good. Is > it possible the clutch is the problem (no slipping noticed)? > > Any helpful advice will be appreciated. I have a hotel room for the night and > some dark hours to contemplate. Thanks. > > Maynard Southard (OvO) '79 > '86 Diesel Double Cab "Col. Potter" > '82 Westy Diesel "Reinhardt" > '82 Vanagon GL Diesel "Sluggo" > '93 EV GL "Klinger" > '00 Golf GLS TDI "WooHoo" > '84 Jetta GL TD "Donor" > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:11:42 -0600 Reply-To: Bill Johnson Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Johnson Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights & replies on top. Comments: To: mike miller MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Do a "reply all" and type the message at the top of the "original message" Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "mike miller" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 7:44 PM Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights & replies on top. on 11/6/01 12:54 PM, gary hradek at hradek@YAHOO.COM wrote: > I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but > does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the > plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to > time. Are they any better than just replacing my > aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone > purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the > low beams that give me problems. thanks gary > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com > Mathew's correct, as usual. Does anyone know how to get replies to go on top of messages? I just switched from Outlook Express to Entourage. Mike ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:12:21 -0500 Reply-To: JOHN REYNOLDS Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: JOHN REYNOLDS Subject: Re: stove knobs Comments: To: gmeetsd@YAHOO.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bus Boys has em' - That's wher I got mine, somw where around $6.00 ot $7.00 each John plain; charset=us-ascii Hi! My van was recently broken into and one, not both, but just one of my stove knobs was stolen. Does anyone know where I can find a brown one, new or used, for a 84 camper? I have already tried the Bus Depot, but they no longer carry them. Thanks, Lori ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:20:58 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth Madsen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth Madsen Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Over time your head-light lenses will develop a hazy film which will reduce your light output. I suggest pouring pure alcohol into your lenses, cover the hole and shake. If you can get a large cotton swap or rag on a stick in there to agitate the dirt free, would help too. Be careful not to scratch the mirror. The ultimate fix would be to make up a wiring harness with relays to bypass the wimpy light switch on your dash. I burnt out 2 of these already. This makes a huge difference. Here is a link to give you an idea how to do this: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/ Ken Madsen 87GL - upgraded headlight wiring/relays - S/A lights. -----Original Message----- From: ID Workshop [mailto:idworkshop@HOME.COM] Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 4:35 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights I have been wondering the same thing. I have been planning on upgrading my Synchro's lighting for some time. However, I am skeptical of these bulbs and their Performance claims. It seems to good (and cheap) to be true. Plus I don't want to get caught up in the blue lights/huge exhaust pipe fad that is sweeping the nations motoring youth. I just want brighter, safer and mostly legal lighting. I'd be interested in anyone else's experiences. Jon > I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but > does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the > plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to > time. Are they any better than just replacing my > aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone > purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the > low beams that give me problems. thanks gary > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Find a job, post your resume. > http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:24:12 EST Reply-To: EJL78122@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "E.J. Lyall" Subject: rear speaker wiring MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hello all, i have a question about the rear speaker wiring of '84 vanagon. I tried wiring speakers in the rear . but the wires that are coming out of the ceiling are not functional for some reason. I dont know if i am wiring the speakers wrong if they just dont work. any help will be well appreciated . this list has given me a lot of information and a sense of pride in owning a vanagon. Thanks e.j. 1984 vanagon hbg, pa ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:28:22 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights & replies on top. Comments: To: ID Workshop In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Son of a gun! You're a genius! [that is, someone who knows something I don't. A very large category] Now. Can you tell me how to drag address to the 'To' line from the address book on new messages? Also, what are the winning Lotto numbers? TIA Mike > From: ID Workshop > Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 18:20:56 -0800 > To: mike miller > Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights & replies on top. > > Mike, > > To change your insertion point in Entourage: > > 1. On your menu bar pull down "Edit" to "Preferences - Mail & News". > > 2. A dialog box opens. Click on the "Reply and Forward" tab. > > 3. In the "Mail Attribution" area, click the "Prefix my replies with > internet-style attribution lines" button. Put what you want in the text box. > What you insert will be on every email you reply to. Or just leave it blank. > I do. > > 4. Check the " Place insertion point before quoted text" box. > > 5. Click "OK" > > And you are done. > > Jon > > >> on 11/6/01 12:54 PM, gary hradek at hradek@YAHOO.COM wrote: >> >>> I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but >>> does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the >>> plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to >>> time. Are they any better than just replacing my >>> aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone >>> purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the >>> low beams that give me problems. thanks gary >>> >>> __________________________________________________ >>> Do You Yahoo!? >>> Find a job, post your resume. >>> http://careers.yahoo.com >>> >> Mathew's correct, as usual. >> >> Does anyone know how to get replies to go on top of messages? I just >> switched from Outlook Express to Entourage. >> >> Mike > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:30:17 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights Comments: To: Kenneth Madsen In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Thought of doing this when I wired my driving lights [a big help, I hope. Testing begins tomorrow.] How do I keep my dash lights when wiring a relay? Keep power to the headlight switch as well as the relay? Mike > From: Kenneth Madsen > Reply-To: Kenneth Madsen > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:20:58 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights > > Over time your head-light lenses will develop a hazy film which will reduce > your light output. I suggest pouring pure alcohol into your lenses, cover > the hole and shake. If you can get a large cotton swap or rag on a stick in > there to agitate the dirt free, would help too. Be careful not to scratch > the mirror. The ultimate fix would be to make up a wiring harness with > relays to bypass the wimpy light switch on your dash. I burnt out 2 of these > already. > This makes a huge difference. > > Here is a link to give you an idea how to do this: > http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/ > Ken Madsen > 87GL - upgraded headlight wiring/relays - S/A lights. > > -----Original Message----- > From: ID Workshop [mailto:idworkshop@HOME.COM] > Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 4:35 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights > > > I have been wondering the same thing. > > I have been planning on upgrading my Synchro's lighting for some time. > However, I am skeptical of these bulbs and their Performance claims. It > seems to good (and cheap) to be true. Plus I don't want to get caught up in > the blue lights/huge exhaust pipe fad that is sweeping the nations motoring > youth. I just want brighter, safer and mostly legal lighting. > > I'd be interested in anyone else's experiences. > > Jon > > > >> I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but >> does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the >> plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to >> time. Are they any better than just replacing my >> aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone >> purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the >> low beams that give me problems. thanks gary >> >> __________________________________________________ >> Do You Yahoo!? >> Find a job, post your resume. >> http://careers.yahoo.com > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:31:11 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: rear speaker wiring Comments: To: EJL78122@aol.com In-Reply-To: <6d.1cf99e03.2919f54c@aol.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit VW used a common ground and many amps don't like that. You may have to run separate grounds. Did you check for continuity? Mike > From: "E.J. Lyall" > Reply-To: EJL78122@AOL.COM > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:24:12 EST > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: rear speaker wiring > > hello all, > > i have a question about the rear speaker wiring of '84 vanagon. I tried > wiring speakers in the rear . but the wires that are coming out of the > ceiling are not functional for some reason. I dont know if i am wiring the > speakers wrong if they just dont work. any help will be well appreciated . > this list has given me a lot of information and a sense of pride in owning a > vanagon. > > Thanks > e.j. > 1984 vanagon > hbg, pa > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:42:48 -0700 Reply-To: John Silverman Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: John Silverman Subject: Trip report (Lake Tahoe/Napa Valley) Tiico issues (long) Comments: To: vanagon@vanagon.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Well, back safe and sound from a wonderful vacation wining and dining, cycling, and exploring the aforementioned parts of California. The van (90 syncro westy) had just finished it's 600 mile break in period from it's BRAND NEW Tiico engine (I4, 2 litre) installed locally by a mechanic. Also, had new OME shocks and Syncro springs a la Schwenk. What great improvements!!!! We left Salt Lake City Friday AM (the 26th) after I got home from a midnight shift, The wife drove. She'd been skeptical about the Tiico, especially the cost. She noticed and appreciated the power increase-ie not subtle increases. She didn't love the rough idle and increased vibration and noise. Got to Reno about 7.5 hrs later, in time for a buffet dinner, then headed on to Tahoe area that eve. Drove up via 395 (near Carson City, and Mt Rose) a steep pass. The Tiico had good power, and could even accelerate uphill, when downshifted appropriately. Noticed some fan belt noise, so the next day, after a beautiful and windy run/hike up Mt Rose, looked at the belts. The alternator belt was loose. Not only, but the bolt holding the (new) alternator bracket to the engine had come loose. Off to the local True Value, replacement bolts, and away we go. Next AM, no start. Lights, radio all work, but not enough juice for the starter. Jump start from friendly passerby, and a beautiful bike ride from Meeks Bay (west shore) to Falling Leaf Lake (almost South Lake Tahoe). No further probs that day. But per the wife--off to the nearest Wal Mart that eve for a battery check. Down towards the Napa, via rt 50, a beautiful, very long descent out of the mts. Stop in Folsom at the closest Wal Mart. Battery checks out OK, alternator loose again! This time, it's the lower alternator bolt, and of course, at 7PM on Sunday, no place to get one. Dinner, WalMart parking lot campground. Next AM, to the local Kragen, where the manager is ever so helpful in finding the closest to correct size bolt, and checking the alternator again. Still not great charging. One of the "field grounds" (whatever that is- it's a blue loose wire that plugs into back of the alternator) was loose. new connector, and we're running gangbusters. So off to Napa Valley. five days of beautiful scenery, amazing food and drink, great bike riding, and stealth camping all over the valley. What a beautiful and fun (though costly) area. Felt very European. No van troubles whatsoever. Friday eve, back to Tahoe via 80, and camping just uphill from Northstar. Another day to explore Tahoe and end up in Reno that night. Again, a little fan belt whine. Now, The alternator bracket itself had begun to fail. Figured we'd make it as far as we could that eve. and drove through the empty desert to Winemucca, Nevada. Checked the bracket, and it had busted completely through, right at the adjusting nut. All the "on-call" mechanics wanted to charge big bucks for a call out service. There were a bunch of kids in the truck stop parking lot, hangin out around all their older cars and trucks. Obviously, some of these kids could weld!! Well, they were excited for something to do, so one of them went home, brought the truck w/ the portable welder, and the part was good as new!! Made it back to Salt Lake the next AM w/ no troubles, and the welded area looks great. Interesting aside: while stopped at that truck stop, a full size diesel pickup came through, towing a vanagon. Turns out the fellow had bought an older (I think he said 84) vanagon w/ only 33k on the clock, in Chicago. He was moving to Santa Cruz. He's a mechanic, and was about to do an I4 swap into a different van, but found this van instead. All in all, a great trip. Other than the alternator episodes, a wonderful improvement in speed and power. And the suspension upgrades were also well worth it!! John SLC 90 syncro westy, Tiico powered ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:26:48 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: [T2] Tranny Problem Comments: To: type2@type2.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Got the problem fixed! It was just a matter of adjusting the linkage, greasing all the linkage. Thanks to all who P-mailed their very good advise. Stan Wilder 83 Westfalia Air Cooled -------------------- Snip------------------------ > I've got an 81 Westy and it doesn't want to go into first gear. > It slips into second, third, fourth and reverse very easily and > shifts > smoothly while driving, also downshifts OK. ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:40:20 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: tranny rebuild: AA Vs. Rancho Performance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've got a very good used 80-83 Air Cooled tranny for $450.00, I can direct you to used 83-87 Water Cooled tranny. I've got a good used 80-83 Air Cooled tranny with a slight noise in reverse but tight and quiet otherwise $250.00. I can supply a good core to you for $100.00 shipped to your re builder. Just needs 3/4 synchronizer, very tight ring and pinion. Stan Wilder 83 Westfalia Exchange (you send your unit to be rebuilt) > $999.95. > > > What does excl transfer case mean??? seriously...do they just > send the > > trans without the Low/Rev assy and front output shaft??? > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:53:47 -0500 Reply-To: Data Services Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Data Services Subject: Re: tiico swap in ct. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0100_01C1670D.839E25E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0100_01C1670D.839E25E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Cost some bucks to buy and install. It's alot easier if you put it into = a vehicle with the 2.1 engine hole. Plus you can use the cat and = muffler from the 2.1L engine. BUT you get a BRAND NEW golf engine (a real workhorse), with the hot = motronic control, no head gasket problems, more torque and power, a = higher RPM engine (read higher speed with less work) and it goes at = minimum like a "normal" car and at best like a raped ape. Plus it's all = VW with all VW parts available at your local parts place. I was = impressed with all those familiar 9 digit VW codes stamped on = EVERYTHING. BTW it's the only conversion endorsed by Volkswagen (if that = means anything to you). Dave in Malden (just North of Boston 83 Tiico Wsety 83 WBX Westy=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Rob Le Duc=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 5:40 PM Subject: tiico swap in ct. looking for any one in mass. ri. or ct. who has done a tiico swap=20 thinking og doing one would like some first hand info ------=_NextPart_000_0100_01C1670D.839E25E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Cost some bucks to buy and = install.  It's alot=20 easier if you put it into a vehicle with the 2.1 engine hole.  Plus = you can=20 use the cat and muffler from the 2.1L engine.
BUT you get a BRAND NEW golf engine (a = real=20 workhorse), with the hot motronic control, no head gasket problems, = more=20 torque and power, a higher RPM engine (read higher speed with less=20 work) and it goes at minimum like a "normal" car and at best like a = raped=20 ape.  Plus it's all VW with all VW  parts available at = your local=20 parts place.  I was impressed with all those familiar 9 digit VW = codes=20 stamped on EVERYTHING. BTW it's the only conversion endorsed by = Volkswagen=20 (if that means anything to you).
Dave in Malden (just North of = Boston
83 Tiico Wsety
83 WBX Westy 
 ----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Rob Le=20 Duc
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 = 5:40=20 PM
Subject: tiico swap in = ct.

looking for any one in mass. ri. = or ct. =20 who has done a tiico swap
 
thinking og doing one would like = some first=20 hand info
------=_NextPart_000_0100_01C1670D.839E25E0-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:40:54 -0800 Reply-To: Geoff Wilke Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Geoff Wilke Subject: winter tire thoughts MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I tried, really I did, to find the Yokohama 370 tires but they just ain't around any more. Yokohama said that they are making the 356 but they don't recommend them for snow. Tire salespeople like to recommend that all 4 tires be the same, however, I would settle for just two studded, or heavy treads for the rear, should I encounter the wrath of mother nature as the season approaches. What have you been happy with? Thanks. Geoff Seattle, '85 Vanagon '74 Thing '58 BMW R50 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:04:10 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Kuthy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Kuthy Subject: FS; Set of four SA Sunburst with Agilis 51 fitted, balanced... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0091_01C166FE.3306E220" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C166FE.3306E220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, I have a set of four South African Sunburst mags with center caps, like = new, fitted, balanced with the legendary Michelin Agilis 51 Radial X, = 205/65 R15. The tires have 2K miles on them.=20 I also have a set of the longer bolts and studs to make them fit right. = I live in the Seattle area. $900 OBO Zoltan It is pretty heavy to ship, but can be done. I have no idea that it may = cost.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C166FE.3306E220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi all,
I have a set of four South African = Sunburst mags=20 with center caps, like new, fitted, balanced with the legendary = Michelin=20 Agilis 51 Radial X, 205/65 R15.  The tires have 2K miles on=20 them. 
I also have a set of the longer = bolts and=20 studs to make them fit right. 
I live in the Seattle = area.
$900 OBO
Zoltan
It is pretty heavy to ship, but can be = done. =20 I have no idea that it may cost. 
------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C166FE.3306E220-- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:46:54 -0600 Reply-To: Larry Alofs Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Larry Alofs Subject: Re: Engine Oil and Cold Weather Comments: To: Chad G MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chad G wrote: > With winter approaching I was wondering if it would be smart to change to a > different viscosity oil. I live in southen Ontario Canada where it doesn't > get that cold (maybe at most -15C). I'm currently using 20W50. Would it be > wise to change.....I'm due for an oil change soon. > > Chad 85GL's 15W-40 or $ynthetic Larry A. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:53:15 -0800 Reply-To: Chris Reichow Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Reichow Subject: Power Windows/Power Locks MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1670D.7009A2C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1670D.7009A2C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey list, This is my first post so excuse it if it sucks. Anyway, I have a 1984 VW Vanagon GL with the manual windows and locks. = Recently, I've been looking into putting in a new sound system, which = would include larger speakers on the front doors. I think this would = prohibit the movement of the window handle though. So, I have seen the = power window kit on Van-Again, and am thinking about buying it. Does = anyone currently have them installed? Also, as a side note, how about = poer locks, anyone know where to get some, used some? Thanks in advance. -Chris Reichow '84 Vanagon GL ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1670D.7009A2C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hey list,
 
This is my first post so excuse it if = it=20 sucks.
 
Anyway, I have a 1984 VW Vanagon GL = with the manual=20 windows and locks. Recently,  I've been looking into putting in a = new sound=20 system,  which would include larger speakers on the front doors. I = think=20 this would prohibit the movement of the window handle though. So, I have = seen=20 the power window kit on Van-Again, and am thinking about buying it. Does = anyone=20 currently have them installed? Also, as a side note, how about poer = locks,=20 anyone know where to get some, used some?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
-Chris Reichow
'84 Vanagon = GL
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1670D.7009A2C0-- _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:20:17 -0800 Reply-To: Jere Hawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jere Hawn Subject: Re: sliding door pops open Comments: To: Shadow In-Reply-To: <4780-3BE7F975-10742@storefull-212.iap.bryant.webtv.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, my $0.02 worth: This has happened to me a number of time, usually after I've move my piano in it (it just fits with the front legs off) to fix this problem I adjust the catch on the back part of the door frame. It's an easy fix. Jere 90 GL 88 GL -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Shadow Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 6:54 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: sliding door pops open I'm having trouble with my sliding door on my 90 westy camper,it snaps open often and often won't close all the way. any ideas on how to fix it ?? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:25:14 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: london lab tech cover + resume ..WARNING: VIRUS In-Reply-To: <7b.1db246d1.2918c287@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Re: london lab tech cover + resume ..WARNING: VIRUS
In a message dated 11/5/01 11:31:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, groch@WORLDCHAT.COM writes:


Hi! How are you?

I send you this file in order to have your advice

See you later. Thanks





FYI, this is a virus...dont open..

Don't think so. I received no virus warning from my server's virus-stripper (I do get a lot of these, but not this time).

Maybe he forgot to insert the virus??
========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:25:14 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights & replies on top. In-Reply-To: <033101c16731$8ba83680$0a0a0a0a@silverback> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Do a "reply all" and type the message at the top of the "original message" > >Bill That depends on your e-masil program. Eudora Light doesn't have a "reply to all" option, despite the Read Me. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:25:14 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights In-Reply-To: <20011106205431.44290.qmail@web14703.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but >does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the >plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to >time. Are they any better than just replacing my >aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone >purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the >low beams that give me problems. thanks gary These are NOT gas-discharge ("plasma") lights; they are ordinary 12V QH bulbs mwith a bluish coating to give a fake gas-discharge appearance. Gas-discharge lights do not get hot; they also use a high voltage, if I remember correctly, about 30000V. Definitely not yet available as replacements for normal lights... and you would need the entire light, not just the emitter (can't really call it a bulb, I guess). Some European and Japanese cars (Toyota Celsior = Lexus LS series). -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:27:54 -0800 Reply-To: Jere Hawn Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jere Hawn Subject: Re: rear speaker wiring Comments: To: EJL78122@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <6d.1cf99e03.2919f54c@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit e.j. There is a connector plug under the rear bench seat, under the carpet, on the drivers side that connects the rear speakers to the audio system up front. This connector can come unplugged on its own. Other than that break out the old multi meter... good luck Jere 90 GL 88 GL -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of E.J. Lyall Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 6:24 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: rear speaker wiring hello all, i have a question about the rear speaker wiring of '84 vanagon. I tried wiring speakers in the rear . but the wires that are coming out of the ceiling are not functional for some reason. I dont know if i am wiring the speakers wrong if they just dont work. any help will be well appreciated . this list has given me a lot of information and a sense of pride in owning a vanagon. Thanks e.j. 1984 vanagon hbg, pa ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 01:57:35 -0500 Reply-To: Doug Jones Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Doug Jones Organization: Microsoft Corporation Subject: eBay Vanagons and CrewCabs Has anyone ever delat with or know anyone who has dealt with Michael Papp (aka vladimier_k) of C&M Automotive Imports of Easton, PA? He seems to be importing and selling via eBay quite a few Vanagons and Transporters (including Syncros)...anybody have experience with this fella? His feedback is pretty good, but I was wondering if anybody here had any first-hand experience with him, or knows anybody who has. I checked the archives and found that someone else posed the same question last month; but, I could not find any responses from the list members. You can p-mail me if you don't wish to mail it to the list. Thanks, Doug ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:59:32 -0900 Reply-To: Michael Moery Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Moery Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Actually, true HID conversion kits are available, and can be used in many headlight systems with replaceable bulbs. At $850.00 or so, they're not for the timid... A good lower cost alternative is the new compound reflector type headlamp. They replace the old style sealed beams. I use these; they look great, and put out more light in a better pattern than sealed beams, and use standard 9007 halogen bulbs. When the price of admission goes down, HID conversion lamps will go in them with no modifications. Mike Moery, Anchorage, AK =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0------------------- =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0||E[__] [__]|[_]\\=20 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0| =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D| - =A0=A0|| =A0=20 * * * =A0=3D( o )--------( o )=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D'Ol Bessie '82TD Westy =20 -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Grebneff Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 10:25 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights >I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but >does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the >plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to >time. Are they any better than just replacing my >aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone >purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the >low beams that give me problems. thanks gary These are NOT gas-discharge ("plasma") lights; they are ordinary 12V QH bulbs mwith a bluish coating to give a fake gas-discharge appearance. Gas-discharge lights do not get hot; they also use a high voltage, if I remember correctly, about 30000V. Definitely not yet available as replacements for normal lights... and you would need the entire light, not just the emitter (can't really call it a bulb, I guess). Some European and Japanese cars (Toyota Celsior =3D Lexus LS series). -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=3Dnarrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 23:19:35 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights Comments: To: Michael Moery In-Reply-To: <009901c16759$c12ebae0$f430800a@athalon900> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Oh, what are you a wimp? just make your own! How much are the 'bulbs?' (the only cost would be the bulbs, wire and duct-tape. Hmmm, Red and Green comes to mind here....) You could easily climb a powerpole and liberate one of the smallest transformers that you can carry by yourself (maybe the size of an amo-box?), then wire the transformer backwards (instead of 30,000 to 12v you go from 12v to 30,000v :-) I did this in college... i 'found' a few HUGE transformers and used them for jacob laders in a haunted hause. They are still kicking! here is a photo of the smallest one (first one too) that i made (this one is 1200V i think. The biggest is the size of a beer keg and weighted 400?+ lbs) http://www.dirtfarmers.com/kx_new/photos/jacoblad.jpg cheers and if women don't find you hansome they should at least find you handy. keep your stick on the ice -m Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 21:45:12 +1200 Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Andrew Grebneff Subject: Re: Power Windows/Power Locks Comments: To: Chris Reichow In-Reply-To: <002501c16750$7e4e7480$0200a8c0@chris> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Anyway, I have a 1984 VW Vanagon GL with the manual windows and >locks. Recently, I've been looking into putting in a new sound >system, which would include larger speakers on the front doors. I >think this would prohibit the movement of the window handle though. >So, I have seen the power window kit on Van-Again, and am thinking >about buying it. Does anyone currently have them installed? Also, as >a side note, how about poer locks, anyone know where to get some, >used some? Suck on this and see if it suits. I bought power bits for my 84 Caravelle from Electric-Life's New York branch: -VK12-k electric regulators for both cab doors $175.00 -4990-10-227 3 VW-style window switches, 2 bezels, wiring harness $65.00 -Magic-Life 2 one-touch driver's window unit $95.00 -4-door remote central locking system $295.00 -remote start with alarm w/extra channels $95.00 Contact Vito Rubino: vrbouno@aol.com> As my van has been in storage for 2 years, I haven't had the opportunity to fit these kits. They appear to be much better quality than the one-size-fits-all-makes units such as AutoLoc. Hope this is of use. -- Andrew Grebneff 165 EvansSt, Dunedin 9001, New Zealand Ph: 0064 (3) 473-8863 fax: 0064 (3) 479-7527 1986 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE80 diesel sedan 1989 Toyota Corolla 1.8DX CE96 diesel van 1989 Toyota Corona 2.0D Select CT170 diesel sedan 1992 Toyota Estima Lucida 2.2 turbodiesel MPV (=narrow "Previa") 1984 VW Caravelle GL (to be fitted with 260hp Subaru SVX flat-6 & Porsche G50 trans) Seashell, Macintosh, VW & Toyota van nut ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 06:11:10 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: gauge wiring question. Comments: To: earthboy@HOME.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greg; I purchased an auxiliary fuse panel from my FLAPs and installed it near the battery. With all the gadgets I like to make I figured the extra circuits would come in handy. I run my headlights relay mod off it plus CB and second battery, so far. I will try to get a picture of it on my web site by the end of the week(just got a new digital camera!). Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:27:42 -0500 Greg Marshall writes: > Hello van heads... > > When I'm running power to my new dash guages, where should I draw > it > from? Also, for drawing power for the guage back lamps, can I run > power > from the wires that run to the heater control back lamp? Will I > blow > any fuses doing this? > > thanks folks, > > Greg. > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 06:17:28 -0500 Reply-To: Richard Bias Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Richard Bias Subject: Help me identify... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Good morning All, Please help me identify the correct name and a source for the plastic ball and such on the bottom of our shift levers (1985 1.9L 4 speed GL) that holds the lever in place and acts as a reverse lockout. I called my local shop and they said, "dealer part...". Please let me know what to call it and where to get it. Thank you. Rich and Annemarie 85 GL "Buba" _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 07:36:14 -0500 Reply-To: Matt F Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matt F Subject: Re: Power Windows/Power Locks Comments: To: Chris Reichow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0038_01C1675E.E100D740" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C1675E.E100D740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Autotech Sport tuning carries spacers for the window cranks so they will = clear larger speakers. They are not made specifically for a vanagon, = but it's worth looking in to. A whole lot easier than adding power = windows. Matt ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Chris Reichow=20 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM=20 Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:53 AM Subject: Power Windows/Power Locks Hey list, This is my first post so excuse it if it sucks. Anyway, I have a 1984 VW Vanagon GL with the manual windows and locks. = Recently, I've been looking into putting in a new sound system, which = would include larger speakers on the front doors. I think this would = prohibit the movement of the window handle though. So, I have seen the = power window kit on Van-Again, and am thinking about buying it. Does = anyone currently have them installed? Also, as a side note, how about = poer locks, anyone know where to get some, used some? Thanks in advance. -Chris Reichow '84 Vanagon GL ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C1675E.E100D740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Autotech Sport tuning carries spacers = for the=20 window cranks so they will clear larger speakers.  They are not = made=20 specifically for a vanagon, but it's worth looking in to.  A whole = lot=20 easier than adding power windows.
 
Matt
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Chris = Reichow=20
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, = 2001 12:53=20 AM
Subject: Power Windows/Power = Locks

Hey list,
 
This is my first post so excuse it if = it=20 sucks.
 
Anyway, I have a 1984 VW Vanagon GL = with the=20 manual windows and locks. Recently,  I've been looking into = putting in a=20 new sound system,  which would include larger speakers on the = front=20 doors. I think this would prohibit the movement of the window handle = though.=20 So, I have seen the power window kit on Van-Again, and am thinking = about=20 buying it. Does anyone currently have them installed? Also, as a side = note,=20 how about poer locks, anyone know where to get some, used = some?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
-Chris Reichow
'84 Vanagon=20 GL
------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C1675E.E100D740-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:00:57 -0500 Reply-To: Gary Stearns Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Gary Stearns Subject: Re: replacing muffler Comments: To: "Cadabes, Ruben G (PWCPEARL)" MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Nope, no sealant. Just be sure that the donut and the spots that it contacts are realtively smooth and rust free. A little emery cloth will do the trick. If the donut is really pitted, some of that exhaust sealant goop might help. Suggest replacing the bolts with galvanized or stainless.When you tighten everything down line up the donut joint carefully, and snug each nut in sequence, a little at a time. A tap with hammer or mallet will help to assure that it doesn't pinched at a skewed angle. FWIW, the last time I had mine apart the donut shattered and came out in 3 pieces. If you can't afford to have your van "down" while you get another, get it now. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cadabes, Ruben G (PWCPEARL)" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 8:19 PM Subject: replacing muffler > hi all, > > I'm planning to replace my muffler this this weekend on my 90 carat. got all > the parts muffler,gaskets etc. Just one question, between the side exhaust > elbow & side connector pipe there's an exhaust donut (metal ring), is there > suppose to be some kinda sealant or just a metal to metal application? the > reason I ask is the way I look at it, I'll have to remove it from that point > to remove the muffler and replace all the (3) gaskets. Just want to make > sure I got all the parts needed to put the new muffler back. > > Thanks, > ruben...... ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 06:12:51 -0800 Reply-To: "M.R. Nimmo" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "M.R. Nimmo" Subject: 15" mercedes steel wheels Comments: To: type2@type2.com, vanagon@vanagon.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii OK, I know that gowesty has these wheels. And a listmember proclaimed that these are available much cheaper. But who has them? What are the specs? Everyone I call says they have nothing near our ET37 offset. And what lugs do I need? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume. http://careers.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:15:42 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: winter tire thoughts Comments: To: gwilke@livemusic.org MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/6/01 10:42:28 PM, gwilke@LIVEMUSIC.ORG writes: << Yokohama said that they are making the 356 but they don't recommend them for snow. >> Geoff, It has been my experience that they should tell you that they are absolutely useless in snow. It has recently been pointed out to me that I am a one of vanishing breed because I still switch to dedicated snow tires. But, then again, my feet stay dry through most of what Mother Nature brews up each winter. I greeted my first winter in the driver's seat of a 2WD Vanagon shod with Yoko 356's. All it took was one snowfall before I was franticly searching out a pair of Hakkapeliita 10's. Mounting the Hakka's with a100# bag of sand hovering over each rear wheel solved that problem. From my experience, I can make two endorsements: 1/ Nokia Hakkapelitta C2's. These replace the Hakka 10's which are no longer made. I ran a set on a Syncro last winter and I noticed no difference. Previously, I ran the Hakka 10's year round for more than 2 ye ars and they performed well the whole time. 2/ For years I used Vredestein Snow++'s on Volvo's only switching to Hakka's when the Vredesteins were no longer readily available. The two seemed to perform the same in snow, but I preferred the Vredesteins because they were a little quieter on dry pavement. If a ready source for the Vredesteins comes up, I have enough confidence in the product that I will use them again. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 06:45:42 -0800 Reply-To: Kevin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Subject: Re: stove knobs In-Reply-To: <200111070354.fA73sTA23673@mail.brandx.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Hi Lori, I believe they are available at http://www.gowesty.com as well. Kevin > >Hi! >My van was recently broken into and one, not both, but just one of my >stove knobs >was stolen. Does anyone know where I can find a brown one, new or used, >for a 84 >camper? I have already tried the Bus Depot, but they no longer carry >them. >Thanks, >Lori ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:46:12 -0500 Reply-To: David Beierl Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: David Beierl Subject: Re: london lab tech cover + resume ..WARNING: VIRUS Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:25 AM 11/7/2001, Andrew Grebneff wrote: >Don't think so. I received no virus warning from my server's >virus-stripper (I do get a lot of these, but not this time). > >Maybe he forgot to insert the virus?? No, the vanagon list stripped it as it strips all attachments. d David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:46:26 -0500 Reply-To: Richard Bias Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Richard Bias Subject: Re: Help me identify... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed All, Please allow me to take your time and bandwidth to publicly (which I don't do too often) thank Ken at Vanagain. Not only does he have intimate knowledge of our beloved Vanagons (he IS an owner too), he also has every part we need to keep our wheels rolling. Also, he is one of the most pleasant, uplifting customer service persons I have ever had the pleasure of talk with on the phone. Thank you Ken. Richard and Annemarie 85 GL "Buba" >From: "Vanagon Man" >To: "Richard Bias" >Subject: Re: Help me identify... >Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:21:48 -0500 > >Call Ken at vanagain he has the stuff on the shelf...... > >Adam P >81 westy (3 of them) >74 beetle >73 Transporter (at paint shop!) >70 Single Cab "Whitey" >Vanagon Partsmobiles >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Richard Bias" >To: >Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 6:17 AM >Subject: Help me identify... > > > > Good morning All, > > Please help me identify the correct name and a source for the plastic >ball > > and such on the bottom of our shift levers (1985 1.9L 4 speed GL) that >holds > > the lever in place and acts as a reverse lockout. I called my local >shop > > and they said, "dealer part...". Please let me know what to call it and > > where to get it. > > > > Thank you. > > > > Rich and Annemarie > > 85 GL "Buba" > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at >http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:56:43 -0500 Reply-To: Richard Bias Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Richard Bias Subject: (SHOULD'VE BEEN THANK YOU KEN...)Re: Help me identify... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Sorry to re-send. Subject was wrong and I think it is important for many to read. Thank you. Rich >From: Richard Bias >Reply-To: Richard Bias >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: Help me identify... >Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:46:26 -0500 > >All, > Please allow me to take your time and bandwidth to publicly (which I >don't >do too often) thank Ken at Vanagain. Not only does he have intimate >knowledge of our beloved Vanagons (he IS an owner too), he also has every >part we need to keep our wheels rolling. Also, he is one of the most >pleasant, uplifting customer service persons I have ever had the pleasure >of >talk with on the phone. Thank you Ken. > > Richard and Annemarie > 85 GL "Buba" > > >>From: "Vanagon Man" >>To: "Richard Bias" >>Subject: Re: Help me identify... >>Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:21:48 -0500 >> >>Call Ken at vanagain he has the stuff on the shelf...... >> >>Adam P >>81 westy (3 of them) >>74 beetle >>73 Transporter (at paint shop!) >>70 Single Cab "Whitey" >>Vanagon Partsmobiles >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Richard Bias" >>To: >>Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 6:17 AM >>Subject: Help me identify... >> >> >> > Good morning All, >> > Please help me identify the correct name and a source for the plastic >>ball >> > and such on the bottom of our shift levers (1985 1.9L 4 speed GL) that >>holds >> > the lever in place and acts as a reverse lockout. I called my local >>shop >> > and they said, "dealer part...". Please let me know what to call it >>and >> > where to get it. >> > >> > Thank you. >> > >> > Rich and Annemarie >> > 85 GL "Buba" >> > >> > _________________________________________________________________ >> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at >>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp >> > >> >> > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:00:33 -0500 Reply-To: Chuck Seleen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chuck Seleen Subject: Re: winter tire thoughts Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I put studded 185R14 Nokia-C2's on this weekend--I'll give a report on their performance after the first snowfall which will be soon here in Northern Vermont!!! Chuck Seleen K9 BUS 91 Vanagon GL ----- Original Message ----- From: Rico Sapolich To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 9:15 AM Subject: Re: winter tire thoughts > In a message dated 11/6/01 10:42:28 PM, gwilke@LIVEMUSIC.ORG writes: > > << Yokohama said that they are making the 356 but they don't > > recommend them for snow. >> > > Geoff, > > It has been my experience that they should tell you that they are absolutely > useless in snow. > > It has recently been pointed out to me that I am a one of vanishing breed > because I still switch to dedicated snow tires. But, then again, my feet > stay dry through most of what Mother Nature brews up each winter. I greeted > my first winter in the driver's seat of a 2WD Vanagon shod with Yoko 356's. > All it took was one snowfall before I was franticly searching out a pair of > Hakkapeliita 10's. Mounting the Hakka's with a100# bag of sand hovering over > each rear wheel solved that problem. > > From my experience, I can make two endorsements: > 1/ Nokia Hakkapelitta C2's. These replace the Hakka 10's which are no > longer made. I ran a set on a Syncro last winter and I noticed no > difference. Previously, I ran the Hakka 10's year round for more than 2 ye > ars and they performed well the whole time. > > 2/ For years I used Vredestein Snow++'s on Volvo's only switching to Hakka's > when the Vredesteins were no longer readily available. The two seemed to > perform the same in snow, but I preferred the Vredesteins because they were a > little quieter on dry pavement. If a ready source for the Vredesteins comes > up, I have enough confidence in the product that I will use them again. > > Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:57:38 -0500 Reply-To: Derek Drew Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Derek Drew Subject: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Comments: To: Syncro@onelist.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" This email is a query for leads about shops that make up wheels to a customer's specs.

All referrals, references, and ideas welcome and solicited.

There appear to be no wheels in size 6.5 x 16", bolt pattern 5 x 112, ET30 so my purpose is to see about creating a batch of them.

I think the South African 15" wheels are perfect, but I am mounting a tire that is taller and narrower than the sizes available on a 15" wheel.

________________________________________________________
Derek Drew                              New York, NY & Washington, DC
derekdrew@rcn.com                     212-580-6486
Email me for viscous couplings
'90 Syncro Westfalia...
...seen off-road at
Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) are:
      http://www.syncro.org  
My refrigerator article:
My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies:
To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article
To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator
To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires see
            ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 07:38:37 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Interior light/work light Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Dear Volks, I recall a discussion about adding interior lighting in the van and someone's] found one that mounted and was detachable [like the ones under GM pickup hoods. They come off and are attached with a cord to the battery power] so if you need portable light, you got it. At least I think I do. But I can't find such an item at my FLAPS nor the RV dealers around. Anyone have a line on such an item or was I hallucinating again? TIA Mike Off to the lost coast up above Phaedra's country. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:39:12 -0600 Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Marshall Ruskin Subject: Fw: Vanagon Stickers - New Vanagon Gathering! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Volks: Our local tourism ambassador has kindly written a promo for the "Festival De Voyager" Vanagon Gathering - hopefully to become an annual event in Winnipeg. It follows my message. Be sure to check out the Festival website, and then make plans to come to Winnipeg in February for the gathering. Remember, the local vanagon group is providing a free, it only $5.00, Vanagon sticker to every listee who participates. Cheers! Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy Aloha from Winnipeg! "it goes on during Spring Break - pardon me, Reading Week (in the middle of February would you believe) and it is a cultural celebration for the francophone community in Manitoba. Winnipeg has the largest French-speaking population west of Montreal, in a community called St. Boniface on the east banks of the Red River. It takes place in a replica of a fur trading post that was operated by the North West Company, a Canadian firm based out of Montreal run by Scots in the 1700s. They were the main competition to the London-based Hudson's Bay Company, founded in 1670 and still in operation today. It's a wood fort and inside is music and liquor and food and liquor and cute girls and liquor. It goes on for a week and is much more wholesome than the stuff you see on those Girls Gone Wild tv commercials for mardi gras in New Orleans. Hey Marshall, what are you doing for mardi gras this year? (hint hint) Sorry, no stickers. But a website: www.festivalvoyageur.mb.ca Here's a little excerpt of The Song of the Voyageur: La chanson du Voyageur Voyageur! va faire tes baggages C'est à l'aube que nous partirons. C'est à l'aube oui, oui, oui C'est à l'aube non, non, non C'est à l'aube que nous partirons. If you would like to call, I can sing you a few bars. Sorry i can't translate but it means . . . Oh I can translate. My francophone friend is on Messenger. It means: Voyageur, go get packed. It's at dawn that we leave. It's at dawn, yes yes yes. It's at dawn, no no no. It's at dawn that we leave. Won't win any awards but i guess it's easy to paddle a canoe to. Jeff" ----- Original Message ----- From: Marshall Ruskin To: DuryeaFineArt@aol.com ; Jeff Palmer Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 6:25 PM Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers Hi Bill: I've sent this message to Mr Jeff Palmer, who can do a much better job at promoting the city and it's festivals than I can. Jeff, please tell Mr. Bill about the "Festival De Voyager" - and don't gloss over the good parts, OK? TIA Marshall Ruskin Aloha from Winnipeg! ----- Original Message ----- From: DuryeaFineArt@aol.com To: mjruskin@home.com Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 08:08 AM Subject: Re: Vanagon Stickers Hey! Tell me about this event. I want a sticker too! Bill Colo Springs 2 87's GL & GL Syncro ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:58:15 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Comments: To: derekdrew@rcn.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_d7.e9b1865.291ab417_boundary" --part1_d7.e9b1865.291ab417_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel. All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide. We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive. If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_d7.e9b1865.291ab417_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel.  All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide.  We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive.  If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
--part1_d7.e9b1865.291ab417_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:00:31 -0500 Reply-To: Kitzmann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kitzmann Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights In-Reply-To: <200111071543.fA7Fhxw13754@marlin.exis.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Don't buy them they won't help you see any better! Normal bulb with blue coating, they are actually dimmer then normal. I bought a set of Sylvania Halogen XP (I think) that are direct replacements for the original bulb and they work great. Better light pattern, brighter. For a further boost I'm thinking of running heavier gauge wires upfront from the battery to reduce the voltage drop. Dave K. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:04:56 -0500 Reply-To: Michael Sullivan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Michael Sullivan Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C167A5.F17388B0" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C167A5.F17388B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Dear Derek, I think you will have to learn to speak Portuguese!!! -- Mangels do Brazil supplies PZ, Winkler, et al with their wheels. They make aluminum and steel wheels in almost any size. However, they have never once responded to me via email. I suspect you'll need to call them and be ready to place and order... check out: http://www.mangels.com.br/ MJS -----Original Message----- From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel. All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide. We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive. If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C167A5.F17388B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Dear Derek,
 
I think you will have to learn to speak Portuguese!!!  -- Mangels do Brazil supplies PZ, Winkler, et al with their wheels. They make aluminum and steel wheels in almost any size. However, they have never once responded to me via email. I suspect you'll need to call them and be ready to place and order...
 
check out:
 
 
MJS
-----Original Message-----
From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This?

Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel.  All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide.  We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive.  If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
------_=_NextPart_001_01C167A5.F17388B0-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:08:43 -0600 Reply-To: Chris Stann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Stann Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Comments: To: Derek Drew In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20011107095145.020d5c08@pop.rcn.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C16774.2E7A9FA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C16774.2E7A9FA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.stocktonwheel.com/widen_straighten.htm I am sure there are many more places like the one in the above link. Chris. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Derek Drew Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:58 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? This email is a query for leads about shops that make up wheels to a customer's specs. All referrals, references, and ideas welcome and solicited. There appear to be no wheels in size 6.5 x 16", bolt pattern 5 x 112, ET30 so my purpose is to see about creating a batch of them. I think the South African 15" wheels are perfect, but I am mounting a tire that is taller and narrower than the sizes available on a 15" wheel. ________________________________________________________ Derek Drew New York, NY & Washington, DC derekdrew@rcn.com 212-580-6486 Email me for viscous couplings '90 Syncro Westfalia... ...seen off-road at http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/Syncro_Madness_Area.htm Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) are: http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=vanagon ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro http://www.vanagon.com http://www.syncro.org My refrigerator article: http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/Refrigerator/Reefer_Madness.htm My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies: ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/auto-insurance-madness.html To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/fitbigtiresonvanagon.htm To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/syncrotireandgearratios.xls To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels%2C%20Tires%20%26%20Gea ring/Wheel%20%26%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_Arm.jpg ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C16774.2E7A9FA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
http://www.sto= cktonwheel.com/widen_straighten.htm
 
I am=20 sure there are many more places like the one in the above=20 link.
 
Chris.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List=20 [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Derek=20 Drew
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:58 = AM
To:=20 vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Need Cuistom Wheel Made = -- Who=20 Does This?

This email is a query = for leads=20 about shops that make up wheels to a customer's specs.

All = referrals,=20 references, and ideas welcome and solicited.

There appear to = be no=20 wheels in size 6.5 x 16", bolt pattern 5 x 112, ET30 so my purpose is = to see=20 about creating a batch of them.

I think the South African 15" = wheels=20 are perfect, but I am mounting a tire that is taller and narrower than = the=20 sizes available on a 15" wheel.

________________________________________________________
Derek=20 = Drew           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;     =20 New York, NY & Washington, DC
=
derekdrew@rcn.com                  &= nbsp; =20 212-580-6486
Email me for viscous couplings
'90 Syncro Westfalia...
...seen off-road at
Note: most valuable Vanagon sites on the planet (for owners) = are:
      http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=3Dvanagon
      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro
      http://www.syncro.org  
My refrigerator article:
       http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/Refrigerator/Reef= er_Madness.htm
My article that shows how to deal with insurance companies: =
       ftp://gerry.vanagon.com/pub/auto-insurance-madness.htm= l=20
To view Wolfgang's incredibly informative wheel article
       http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/fitbigtiresonvanagon.ht= m=20
To view Tim Smith's incredibly useful gearing calculator
       http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/syncrotireandgearratios= .xls=20
To view some 16" Trailing Arms that enable much larger tires = see
      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/syncro-org/files/Wheels%= 2C%20Tires%20%26%20Gearing/Wheel%20%26%20Tire%20Photos/16_Inch_Trailing_A= rm.jpg
         &nb= sp; =20
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C16774.2E7A9FA0-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:13:50 -0500 Reply-To: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" Subject: Re: Interior light/work light Content-Transfer-Encoding: Quoted-Printable MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I found a multi-function 12 volt light at Walmart that I keep in the van. One side is a 12" flourescent light, the other = side has amber and yellow flashable lights and one end has a flashlight. It comes with a cigarette lighter power cord and= uses 4-C cell batteries. I use rechargable batteries in mine. I glued the bristle side of some velcro on one side of the light and have placed the= opposite velcro pieces in various places, such as on the bottom of the upper cabinet above the engine compartment. I store it on the rear shelf where the A/C intake is. I also installed a lighter socket in one of the rear cabinets so I = can keep it charged. The fused socket is wired into the A/C fuses on the left rear pillar. Tim Hannink Goldibox 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Editon Winter Park, Florida http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:15:36 -0800 Reply-To: Bill Kasper Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bill Kasper Subject: Re: Power Windows/Power Locks Comments: To: Andrew Grebneff In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v472) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit andrew, do you have any pics fo the regulators? do i assume that's motors plus regulators? do you know if the vw harnesses and switches (the way the wiring is currently set up) will run with the new units? or should i ask vito? i love the idea of asking a guy named vito a question. i suppose i'll have to phrase it well to avoid meeting his "friends"... bill '87 syncro westfalia On Wednesday, November 7, 2001, at 01:45 , Andrew Grebneff wrote: > > I bought power bits for my 84 Caravelle from Electric-Life's New York > branch: > > -VK12-k electric regulators for both cab doors > $175.00 > -4990-10-227 3 VW-style window switches, 2 bezels, wiring harness > $65.00 > -Magic-Life 2 one-touch driver's window unit > $95.00 > -4-door remote central locking system > $295.00 > -remote start with alarm w/extra channels > $95.00 > > Contact Vito Rubino: > vrbouno@aol.com> ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 08:33:17 -0800 Reply-To: "Buettner, Peter" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Buettner, Peter" Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Comments: To: Michael Sullivan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Michael and Derek, There is somebody from Brazil on the Quantum Syncro list. I just emailed him and asked if he's interested in helping out with this. I'll keep you posted... Peter -----Original Message----- From: Michael Sullivan [mailto:sullivan@OPENMARKET.COM] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:05 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Dear Derek, I think you will have to learn to speak Portuguese!!! -- Mangels do Brazil supplies PZ, Winkler, et al with their wheels. They make aluminum and steel wheels in almost any size. However, they have never once responded to me via email. I suspect you'll need to call them and be ready to place and order... check out: http://www.mangels.com.br/ MJS -----Original Message----- From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel. All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide. We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive. If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:43:13 MST Reply-To: UWanna Deal2 Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: UWanna Deal2 Subject: THANK YOU KEN Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ken is... The most knowlegable and thoughtful cheerful vanagon guy you could want t= o know. I've been down to see him down at the Vanagon Garage- maintenance facilit= y and parts warehouse. Excellent mechanics and an unbelievable merchandise and parts warehouse system. Puts Lands End, LLBean, REI and all the other mail order guys to shame. Parts get to me the next day 9 times out of ten by UPS. Im about 1= 50 miles away. Expert money saving ideas all the time. Three cheers for Ken.. Steve 90GL wkender Burgundy watch ebay for this is the next coupla days.. 88GL Baby Blue my daily driver 91 GL weekender silverbody w/jump seats watch ebay for this one 86 GL sold to friend with lifetime guaranty on all parts and labor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:11:25 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Kuthy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Kuthy Subject: FS; 15" Mercedes alloys MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00CD_01C1676C.2D24CD40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01C1676C.2D24CD40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a set of four 15" Mercedes alloy wheels with their center caps = on, excellent condition. They would need a spacer and a set of longer = bolts and studs which I know where to get for the most reasonable price. = =20 The best offer will take them. There are no tires on them. Seattle area. Zoltan ------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01C1676C.2D24CD40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a set of four 15" Mercedes alloy = wheels with=20 their center caps on, excellent condition.  They would need a = spacer and a=20 set of longer bolts and studs which I know where to get for the most = reasonable=20 price. 
The best offer will take them.  = There are no=20 tires on them.
Seattle area.
Zoltan
------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01C1676C.2D24CD40-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:14:07 -0800 Reply-To: "Buettner, Peter" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Buettner, Peter" Subject: FW: Brazilian wheels MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Derek and Michael, Here's the response from my contact on the Quantum Syncro list. Feel = free to mail him directly. Good luck, Peter -----Original Message----- From: Rene Duvekot [mailto:rene@duvekot.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 9:04 AM To: Buettner, Peter Subject: RE: Brazilian wheels Hi Peter: Thanks for your message. Mangels is a large wheel manufacturer in Brazil, and I doubt that they = would sell directly unless it is an enormous order (thousands of wheels), as = they sell primarily to OEM. It is probably easier if the Vanagon list sent me the specs of the = wheels they want (sizes, holes, offset, material, design, quantity, etc.), and = I can ask the people who work with me in S=E3o Paulo to get some quotes = from local retailers and wholesalers. Please feel free to post this message = to their list. With the current exchange ratio, they can get the wheels = in Brazil at very attractive prices. FYI, the wheels of my car (www.duvekot.com/qsw.htm, then click on = "European style ...") I bought at Rod=E3o (www.rodao.com.br), a large = manufacturer / retailer of alloy wheels in Brazil. Hope this helps, Ren=E9 Mr. Ren=E9 Christiaan Duvekot DUVEKOT.com - desenvolvimento de neg=F3cios nos EUA - business development in BRAZIL and USA website: www.duvekot.com e-mail: rene@duvekot.com correio / mail: P.O. Box 2855 - Lake Placid, Florida 33862 - USA tel: (863) 465-9666 fax: (863) 465-7679 > -----Original Message----- > From: Buettner, Peter [mailto:PGB@dolby.com] > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 11:27 AM > To: 'rene@duvekot.com' > Subject: Brazilian wheels > > > Hi Rene, > > I was wondering if you could help out. On the Vanagon list they > are looking > for a custom wheel manufacturer. They located on in Brazil > (http://www.mangels.com.br/) but they never responded to email > inquiries in > English. Since you're from Brazil and speak Portuguese I was = wondering if > you could help contacting them and potentially get a group purchase = going. > Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you in touch with > the guys on > the Vanagon list. > > Cheers, > Peter Buettner > 92 Passat Syncro G60 Wagon > 90 Vanagon Syncro Westfalia > 87 Quantum Syncro Wagon > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:24:16 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth Madsen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth Madsen Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C167B1.07B41800" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C167B1.07B41800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Some one on the list (Chris Jordan I think) - mentioned that the 17" steel spare wheel from an Audio A8 would work. Not sure if modifications are needed or not or what the price is... worth checking out I guess. Ken Madsen Toronto Ontario 87GL -----Original Message----- From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel. All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide. We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive. If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C167B1.07B41800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Some one on the list  (Chris Jordan I think) - mentioned that the 17" steel spare wheel from an Audio A8 would work. Not sure if modifications are needed or not or what the price is... worth checking out I guess. 
 
Ken Madsen
Toronto Ontario
87GL
-----Original Message-----
From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This?

Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel.  All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide.  We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive.  If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
------_=_NextPart_001_01C167B1.07B41800-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:34:57 -0700 Reply-To: Blake Thornton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Blake Thornton Subject: Muffler Strap MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I should be able to make something else work. thanks, blake 84 westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:44:27 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth Madsen Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth Madsen Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C167B3.D9EA8C9E" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C167B3.D9EA8C9E Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" oops - Auido= Audi -----Original Message----- From: Kenneth Madsen [mailto:ncc0778@CORP.ATTCANADA.CA] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:24 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Some one on the list (Chris Jordan I think) - mentioned that the 17" steel spare wheel from an Audio A8 would work. Not sure if modifications are needed or not or what the price is... worth checking out I guess. Ken Madsen Toronto Ontario 87GL -----Original Message----- From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This? Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel. All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide. We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive. If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C167B3.D9EA8C9E Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
oops - Auido= Audi
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Madsen [mailto:ncc0778@CORP.ATTCANADA.CA]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:24 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This?

Some one on the list  (Chris Jordan I think) - mentioned that the 17" steel spare wheel from an Audio A8 would work. Not sure if modifications are needed or not or what the price is... worth checking out I guess. 
 
Ken Madsen
Toronto Ontario
87GL
-----Original Message-----
From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM [mailto:KENWILFY@AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:58 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Need Cuistom Wheel Made -- Who Does This?

Derek, I am wondering if 16 x 6.5 rim would only work in steel.  All of the alloy rims I have ever seen in 16" are at least 7" wide.  We did import some 16" syncro steel rims last year but they were pretty expensive.  If you find a source for these rims, "made to order" let me know.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
------_=_NextPart_001_01C167B3.D9EA8C9E-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:57:06 -0800 Reply-To: "Buettner, Peter" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Buettner, Peter" Subject: Re: emergency near Modesto, CA Comments: To: type2@type2.com Comments: cc: "Detlev Hanschke (E-mail)" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks to all who replied to my message!!! Collin decided to go to the Volkswagen dealer in Modesto. I think this is the best decision in his case. He is on the way to the east coast and in case something goes wrong with the repair the Volkswagen warranty is good at any dealer in the country. Cheers, Peter > >-----Original Message----- >From: Buettner, Peter [mailto:PGB@DOLBY.COM] >Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 9:26 AM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: emergency near Modesto, CA >Importance: High > > > > Hi all, > > > > A NEATO member (Collin) just called me up. His '71 Bus is on the side >of > > the road with low oil pressure (light blinking) and strange sounds om > > the engine. He is currently in Big Oak Flat, near Modesto, CA. Can > > anyone recommend a mechanic in this area? > > > > Thanks, > > Peter ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:33:15 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Kuthy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Kuthy Subject: Re: THANK YOU KEN Comments: To: UWanna Deal2 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ken seems to be a perfectionist with a smile. Once all is in order the machinery operates easy. The only question is what "order" means for each of us. I often see permanently temporary arrangements as the order. Zoltan ----- Original Message ----- From: "UWanna Deal2" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:43 AM Subject: THANK YOU KEN Ken is... The most knowlegable and thoughtful cheerful vanagon guy you could want to know. I've been down to see him down at the Vanagon Garage- maintenance facility and parts warehouse. Excellent mechanics and an unbelievable merchandise and parts warehouse system. Puts Lands End, LLBean, REI and all the other mail order guys to shame. Parts get to me the next day 9 times out of ten by UPS. Im about 150 miles away. Expert money saving ideas all the time. Three cheers for Ken.. Steve 90GL wkender Burgundy watch ebay for this is the next coupla days.. 88GL Baby Blue my daily driver 91 GL weekender silverbody w/jump seats watch ebay for this one 86 GL sold to friend with lifetime guaranty on all parts and labor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:25:17 EST Reply-To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: KENWILFY@AOL.COM Subject: Re: FW: Brazilian wheels Comments: To: PGB@dolby.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_149.436ff12.291ad68d_boundary" --part1_149.436ff12.291ad68d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been talking to a supplier of mine who imports alot of other Mangels rims for Jettas, Audis, etc. to see if they would be willing to import some for the Vanagon/Bus. They said that they spoke to the Mangels rep and the minimum order for these rims would be 200 rims which my supplier couldn't handle. They didn't feel that they could move that many rims for the Vanagon and I would agree. This is a large investment in not only money, also shipping costs, and warehouse space. I have had 40 rims here at one time before and with all of our other parts it was tight. Even with stacking 200 rims would fill a good sized room. Just FYI. If we could get three or four parts vendors together and split up the order that might be an idea, or if I could get 50 people to place an order for these rims with shipping and credit card info, I am sure that might convince the distributor that they would be worth bringing in. Just sharing my thoughts. Usually at this stage alot of people chime in that they would be interested in buying something, and then when you actually get the item they either don't have any money, or they have changed their mind, etc. That is why I would want credit card info and shipping info before we went any further. Just thinking out loud. Not committing to any list purchase or anything. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 --part1_149.436ff12.291ad68d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been talking to a supplier of mine who imports alot of other Mangels rims for Jettas, Audis, etc. to see if they would be willing to import some for the Vanagon/Bus.  They said that they spoke to the Mangels rep and the minimum order for these rims would be 200 rims which my supplier couldn't handle.  They didn't feel that they could move that many rims for the Vanagon and I would agree.  This is a large investment in not only money, also shipping costs, and warehouse space.  I have had 40 rims here at one time before and with all of our other parts it was tight.  Even with stacking 200 rims would fill a good sized room.  Just FYI.  If we could get three or four parts vendors together and split up the order that might be an idea, or if I could get 50 people to place an order for these rims with shipping and credit card info, I am sure that might convince the distributor that they would be worth bringing in.  Just sharing my thoughts.  Usually at this stage alot of people chime in that they would be interested in buying something, and then when you actually get the item they either don't have any money, or they have changed their mind, etc.  That is why I would want credit card info and shipping info before we went any further.  Just thinking out loud.  Not committing to any list purchase or anything.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: (856)-327-2242
--part1_149.436ff12.291ad68d_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:45:57 -0500 Reply-To: Matt F Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matt F Subject: FS- H4's and 2.1 throttle body MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_006F_01C16792.8747CB80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C16792.8747CB80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable (1) set 7" H4 lamps with bulbs. These will replace stock sealed beam = headlights in 80-85 vanagons with round headlights. New condition, I = bought them from another list member and never used them. $27- includes = shipping (1) 2.1L Throttle body, good condition. I removed it from a 91' carat. = $50 - includes shipping Money Orders or Paypal preferred. First come first serve. Thanks Matt ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C16792.8747CB80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
(1) set 7" H4 lamps with bulbs.  = These=20 will replace stock sealed beam headlights in 80-85 vanagons = with round=20 headlights.  New condition, I bought them from another list member = and=20 never used them.  $27- includes shipping
 
(1) 2.1L Throttle body, good = condition.  I=20 removed it from a 91' carat.  $50 - includes shipping
 
Money Orders or Paypal preferred.  = First come=20 first serve.
Thanks
 
Matt
------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C16792.8747CB80-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:39:28 -0500 Reply-To: "Anthony L. Mourkas" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Anthony L. Mourkas" Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" >I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any >substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I >should be able to make something else work. Coat hangers! Cut and twist to fit. Worked for me for about 4,000 miles. Looked pretty cheesy though so I bought the correct part eventually. Best wishes, Tony Anthony L. Mourkas Hampden, Maine, USA 1984 Vanagon Westfalia "Gertrude" 1986.5 Quantum Syncro Wagon "Wolfgang" 1987 Quantum Syncro Wagon "Werner" 1991 Jetta Eco Diesel "Liesel" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:44:39 -0800 Reply-To: Cary Chiang Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Cary Chiang Subject: Re: Ebay vanagons & crewcabs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-1674987334-1005158679=:64008" --0-1674987334-1005158679=:64008 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Doug: I asked the list this question a few months ago, and also e-mailed the individuals who gave Michael Papp negative feedback on Ebay for details of their transactions. Unfortunately, I didn't keep the 6-10 responses, but can tell you there were no positive remarks given, and alot of negative! You can draw your own conclusions.... Cary --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Find a job, post your resume on Yahoo! Careers. --0-1674987334-1005158679=:64008 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Doug:

I asked the list this question a few months ago, and also e-mailed the individuals who gave Michael Papp negative feedback on Ebay for details of their transactions.  Unfortunately, I didn't keep the 6-10 responses, but can tell you there were no positive remarks given, and alot of negative!  You can draw your own conclusions....

Cary



Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume on Yahoo! Careers. --0-1674987334-1005158679=:64008-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:48:30 -0500 Reply-To: Miguel Calvin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Miguel Calvin Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Comments: To: Blake Thornton In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit on 11/7/01 12:34 PM, Blake Thornton at thornton@MATH.UTAH.EDU wrote: > I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any > substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I > should be able to make something else work. > > thanks, > blake > 84 westy I used a steel chain dog collar. The kind they call a choker. It is the heavy duty type they use for pitbulls and the like. You have to trim it to fit and hook the exposed link onto the bracket. Then you use a fender washer to catch the ring at the other end and tighten with the adjustmnt bolt as usual. I've had it on there for six months or so and it works fine. A locknut is needed to keep the bolt from vibrating out though. I don't know what those chokers cost, I had one lying around... -- Miguel ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:54:26 -0600 Reply-To: Chris Stann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Stann Subject: Re: FW: Brazilian wheels Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM In-Reply-To: <149.436ff12.291ad68d@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1678B.54F60950" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1678B.54F60950 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit How much would they be? $75 each? Close? Any ideas? Do Eurovan wheels work on 2WD Vanagons? I know they work on Syncros. Chris. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of KENWILFY@AOL.COM Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:25 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: FW: Brazilian wheels I have been talking to a supplier of mine who imports alot of other Mangels rims for Jettas, Audis, etc. to see if they would be willing to import some for the Vanagon/Bus. They said that they spoke to the Mangels rep and the minimum order for these rims would be 200 rims which my supplier couldn't handle. They didn't feel that they could move that many rims for the Vanagon and I would agree. This is a large investment in not only money, also shipping costs, and warehouse space. I have had 40 rims here at one time before and with all of our other parts it was tight. Even with stacking 200 rims would fill a good sized room. Just FYI. If we could get three or four parts vendors together and split up the order that might be an idea, or if I could get 50 people to place an order for these rims with shipping and credit card info, I am sure that might convince the distributor that they would be worth bringing in. Just sharing my thoughts. Usually at this stage alot of people chime in that they would be interested in buying something, and then when you actually get the item they either don't have any money, or they have changed their mind, etc. That is why I would want credit card info and shipping info before we went any further. Just thinking out loud. Not committing to any list purchase or anything. Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: (856)-765-1583 Fax: (856)-327-2242 ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1678B.54F60950 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
How=20 much would they be? $75 each? Close?  Any = ideas?
 
Do=20 Eurovan wheels work on 2WD Vanagons?  I know they work on=20 Syncros.
 
Chris.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing = List=20 [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of=20 KENWILFY@AOL.COM
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 = 12:25=20 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: FW:=20 Brazilian wheels

I=20 have been talking to a supplier of mine who imports alot of other = Mangels rims=20 for Jettas, Audis, etc. to see if they would be willing to import some = for the=20 Vanagon/Bus.  They said that they spoke to the Mangels rep and = the=20 minimum order for these rims would be 200 rims which my supplier = couldn't=20 handle.  They didn't feel that they could move that many rims for = the=20 Vanagon and I would agree.  This is a large investment in not = only money,=20 also shipping costs, and warehouse space.  I have had 40 rims = here at one=20 time before and with all of our other parts it was tight.  Even = with=20 stacking 200 rims would fill a good sized room.  Just FYI. =  If we=20 could get three or four parts vendors together and split up the order = that=20 might be an idea, or if I could get 50 people to place an order for = these rims=20 with shipping and credit card info, I am sure that might convince the=20 distributor that they would be worth bringing in.  Just sharing = my=20 thoughts.  Usually at this stage alot of people chime in that = they would=20 be interested in buying something, and then when you actually get the = item=20 they either don't have any money, or they have changed their mind, = etc.=20  That is why I would want credit card info and shipping info = before we=20 went any further.  Just thinking out loud.  Not committing = to any=20 list purchase or anything.

Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John = 3:16=20
www.vanagain.com
Phone: (856)-765-1583
Fax: = (856)-327-2242
=20
------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1678B.54F60950-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:54:27 -0600 Reply-To: Chris Stann Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chris Stann Subject: Re: THANK YOU KEN Comments: To: Zoltan Kuthy In-Reply-To: <013201c167ba$aab2b120$c4d33ad8@zol> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I ordered a set of shock absorbers from Ken. He was informative and shipped them very quickly. He even sent me an email to let me know they are on the way! Super! Chris. -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Zoltan Kuthy Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:33 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: THANK YOU KEN Ken seems to be a perfectionist with a smile. Once all is in order the machinery operates easy. The only question is what "order" means for each of us. I often see permanently temporary arrangements as the order. Zoltan ----- Original Message ----- From: "UWanna Deal2" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:43 AM Subject: THANK YOU KEN Ken is... The most knowlegable and thoughtful cheerful vanagon guy you could want to know. I've been down to see him down at the Vanagon Garage- maintenance facility and parts warehouse. Excellent mechanics and an unbelievable merchandise and parts warehouse system. Puts Lands End, LLBean, REI and all the other mail order guys to shame. Parts get to me the next day 9 times out of ten by UPS. Im about 150 miles away. Expert money saving ideas all the time. Three cheers for Ken.. Steve 90GL wkender Burgundy watch ebay for this is the next coupla days.. 88GL Baby Blue my daily driver 91 GL weekender silverbody w/jump seats watch ebay for this one 86 GL sold to friend with lifetime guaranty on all parts and labor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:55:10 -0500 Reply-To: doug.alcock@HEWITT.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Doug Alcock Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Mine came equipped with a long hose clamp as a muffler strap --- 2 years later I'm still thinking about maybe getting around to replacing it someday......... Cheers, Doug Alcock '84 Westy "BlueBelle" Toronto, Canada http://www.torontovanagon.com >on 11/7/01 12:34 PM, Blake Thornton at thornton@MATH.UTAH.EDU wrote: > >> I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any >> substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I >> should be able to make something else work. >> >> thanks, >> blake >> 84 westy > >I used a steel chain dog collar. The kind they call a choker. It is the >heavy duty type they use for pitbulls and the like. You have to trim it to >fit and hook the exposed link onto the bracket. Then you use a fender washer >to catch the ring at the other end and tighten with the adjustmnt bolt as >usual. I've had it on there for six months or so and it works fine. A >locknut is needed to keep the bolt from vibrating out though. I don't know >what those chokers cost, I had one lying around... >-- >Miguel ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:19:46 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Comments: To: Blake Thornton You can get them from Bus Depot for a much more reasonable price than from the dealer. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake Thornton" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:34 AM Subject: Muffler Strap > I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any > substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I > should be able to make something else work. > > thanks, > blake > 84 westy > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:22:04 -0800 Reply-To: mike miller Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: mike miller Subject: Re: Interior light/work light Comments: To: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" In-Reply-To: Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Got one of those already. Not really bright enough for my aging eyes. Pretty nifty otherwise. Thanks, Mike > From: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" > Reply-To: "tjhannink@earthlink.net" > Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:13:50 -0500 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Interior light/work light > > I found a multi-function 12 volt light at Walmart that I keep in the van. One > side is a 12" flourescent light, the other side has amber and yellow flashable > lights and one end has a flashlight. It comes with a cigarette lighter power > cord and uses 4-C cell batteries. > I use rechargable batteries in mine. I glued the bristle side of some velcro > on one side of the light and have placed the opposite velcro pieces in various > places, such as on the bottom of the upper cabinet above the engine > compartment. > I store it on the rear shelf where the A/C intake is. I also installed a > lighter socket in one of the rear cabinets so I can keep it charged. The fused > socket is wired into the A/C fuses on the left rear pillar. > > Tim Hannink > Goldibox 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Editon > Winter Park, Florida > http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web - Check your email from the web at > http://mail2web.com/ . > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:22:30 -0700 Reply-To: Blake Thornton Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Blake Thornton Subject: Re: Muffler Strap In-Reply-To: <005101c167c1$c7833b60$0648530c@pavilion> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Karl, That is true ($40 vs $50 or $60), but it is still expensive for a strap of metal. The funny thing is, when I called bus depot, they told me that the muffler strap is a dealer only item and they get the strap from the dealer. It didn't make sense. b On Wed, 7 Nov 2001, Karl Wolz wrote: > You can get them from Bus Depot for a much more reasonable price than from > the dealer. > > Karl Wolz > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Blake Thornton" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:34 AM > Subject: Muffler Strap > > > > I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any > > substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I > > should be able to make something else work. > > > > thanks, > > blake > > 84 westy > > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 14:26:44 EST Reply-To: JM060356@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jim Morgan Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Comments: To: frankenstein@telplus.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_f7.11f4decf.291ae4f4_boundary" --part1_f7.11f4decf.291ae4f4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try using heating duct clamps. They are stainless steel. Just like large hose clamps and you can get them at a home center store in the heating/plumbing section. --part1_f7.11f4decf.291ae4f4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try using heating duct clamps. They are stainless steel. Just like large hose clamps and
you can get them at a home center store in the heating/plumbing section.

--part1_f7.11f4decf.291ae4f4_boundary-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:44:04 -0800 Reply-To: Zoltan Kuthy Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Zoltan Kuthy Subject: THANK YOU KEN Comments: To: Chris Stann MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A business is like the person running it. Well, as long as it is within the control of that person. In Ken's case it is ideal. He is a model that is hard to emulate. Zoltan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Stann" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:54 AM Subject: Re: THANK YOU KEN > I ordered a set of shock absorbers from Ken. He was informative and shipped > them very quickly. He even sent me an email to let me know they are on the > way! Super! > > Chris. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf > Of Zoltan Kuthy > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:33 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: THANK YOU KEN > > > Ken seems to be a perfectionist with a smile. Once all is in order the > machinery operates easy. The only question is what "order" means for each > of us. I often see permanently temporary arrangements as the order. > Zoltan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "UWanna Deal2" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:43 AM > Subject: THANK YOU KEN > > > Ken is... > The most knowlegable and thoughtful cheerful vanagon guy you could want to > know. > > I've been down to see him down at the Vanagon Garage- maintenance facility > and > parts warehouse. > Excellent mechanics and an unbelievable merchandise and parts warehouse > system. Puts Lands End, LLBean, REI and all the other mail order guys to > shame. Parts get to me the next day 9 times out of ten by UPS. Im about 150 > miles away. > > Expert money saving ideas all the time. > > Three cheers for Ken.. > > Steve > > > 90GL wkender Burgundy watch ebay for this is the next coupla days.. > 88GL Baby Blue my daily driver > 91 GL weekender silverbody w/jump seats watch ebay for this one > 86 GL sold to friend with lifetime guaranty on all parts and labor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 14:31:34 -0500 Reply-To: Chad G Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Chad G Subject: Advice.......RE: Van Dies MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I posted yesterday that I had a problem with my van dying while driving. Sometimes it would lose power for a couple seconds and then run fine. Other times it would just die while sitting at a stop light. On all occasions so far it would start back up and on I went. Well, it was time for some maintenance anyway and I decided to mess around. I thought the fuel pump could be the culprit so I swaped with a known good one. Didn't help. I put on a new fuel filter.....and a new ground wire to the fuel pump......didn't help. I then traced the wire that brings power to the fuel pump (it is white with #32) on it to the box above the ignition coil. If I wiggle around the conector in there I could get a test light to go on and off. This is the part I'm not sure of.......should the test light stay lit indicating that there is constant power going to the pump?? (cause that isn't what happened) I then swaped out the resistors in the box with known good ones.........the van seemed to run fine today but I didn't drive it for any extended period. Any ideas???????????? Chad 85GL's ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 14:39:15 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: Muffler Strap In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > You can get them from Bus Depot for a much more reasonable price than from > the dealer. > That is true ($40 vs $50 or $60), but it is still expensive for a strap of > metal. > > The funny thing is, when I called bus depot, they told me that the muffler > strap is a dealer only item and they get the strap from the dealer. It > didn't make sense. Sure it does. I buy a whole lot more of 'em than you do, so I pay less. (Your VW dealer _can_ discount below the VW retail price; he's just not particularly inclined to if you're ordering a single muffler strap as opposed to dozens at a time.) Also, I get some from out of Germany, at a still lower cost, and base my selling price on an average of the costs. - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 14:42:57 -0500 Reply-To: Ross Cupples Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ross Cupples Subject: Tachometer Install Question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey gang, Have an '86 Vanagon with the clock/fuel/temp gauge as the right pod in the instrument cluster. Can the tachometer pod from a '91 Vanagon be installed there? i.e. Is all the wiring there for a tach, etc. How easy would this swap be? I'd like to have a tach to watch. Thanks for any and all help, -Ross ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:54:45 -0700 Reply-To: Karl Wolz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Karl Wolz Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Comments: To: Blake Thornton I just pulled up my invoice from BD, and I paid $14.95 each for the straps. Karl Wolz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake Thornton" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 12:22 PM Subject: Re: Muffler Strap > Karl, > > That is true ($40 vs $50 or $60), but it is still expensive for a strap of > metal. > > The funny thing is, when I called bus depot, they told me that the muffler > strap is a dealer only item and they get the strap from the dealer. It > didn't make sense. > > b > > > On Wed, 7 Nov 2001, Karl Wolz wrote: > > > You can get them from Bus Depot for a much more reasonable price than from > > the dealer. > > > > Karl Wolz > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Blake Thornton" > > To: > > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:34 AM > > Subject: Muffler Strap > > > > > > > I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any > > > substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I > > > should be able to make something else work. > > > > > > thanks, > > > blake > > > 84 westy > > > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 15:01:29 -0500 Reply-To: The Bus Depot Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: The Bus Depot Subject: Re: Muffler Strap In-Reply-To: <007e01c167c6$130eb100$0648530c@pavilion> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I just pulled up my invoice from BD, and I paid $14.95 each for the straps. Either you have an '86-up Vanagon, or you lucked out and we undercharged you. :-) The '83-85 muffler strap is $39.95, whereas the '86-91 is $14.95. Yes, they're virtually identical (albeit not interchangeable). The difference is that on the latter we have managed to slueth out who the actual manufacturer is in Germany, whereas on the former we're still paying VW their markup (and a sizeable one it is, even at the "wholesale" price). - Ron Salmon The Bus Depot, Inc. (215) 234-VWVW www.busdepot.com _____________________________________________ Toll-Free for Orders Only: 1-866-BUS-DEPOT ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:26:40 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: what size is the Oil Pressure Sender? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII What size socket is needed for the oil pressure sender? I have for a limited time a really good deal on some metric BIG snap-on sockets (5$ each! barely used), so what sizes should i get- i was thinking the oil pressure sender and the front-wheel nut (the big one). thanks Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 15:26:09 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Comments: To: thornton@MATH.UTAH.EDU MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try 5/8" Steel straping band or go to a hose company and get Band-It stainless steel. Stan Wilder On Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:34:57 -0700 Blake Thornton writes: > I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any > substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like > I > should be able to make something else work. > > thanks, > blake > 84 westy > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 12:43:04 -0800 Reply-To: Matthew Pollard Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Matthew Pollard Subject: Spicer U-Joints?? Comments: To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com, syncro-org@yahoogroups.com In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII What's the word on Spice U-joints? My understanding was stick with OEM stuff to keep the vibs down... that and a good balancing. Or more specificially- look here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597518066 Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 On Tue, 6 Nov 2001, Matthew Pollard wrote: > This is just a heads up... > There is an 86 syncro for sale in spokane (www.autotrader.com) that i just > looked at. Someone is buying it from Corvalis Oregon sight unseen (i > turned it down). > > IF YOU ARE THE PERSON WHO IS BUYING THIS BUS OR KNOW THE PERSON WHO IS > BUYING THIS BUS PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME ASAP! > > I am prepared to get flamed to cinders, but i think this is very important > (see below) > Thanks > Matthew > 208-885-2746 > > <<<<< this is pretty rough on her, i'm sorry >>>>>> > Reason being- the owner is totally dishonest. Engine leaks oil ("no > leaks"), lots of rust ("no rust"), VC is shot, hard to find second gear, > wrong tires (passanger tires) inside is thrashed, there NO coolant in the > pressure or overflow tank & the inside of the bus smells sweet. There > master cylinder drips fluid, the power steering pump whines (really really > loud), the rack and pinion is covered in fresh oil (see the previous one), > at least 3 cv's are bad, the ski racks are BOLTED onto (through!) the > drivers side body, seats are thrashed (missing arm rests, seat belts > shredded, ripped cushion, no "oh shit" handles in back). The rear bumper > is pushed in so far that you can't flip down the liscense plate, no bumper > endcaps, mud-flaps are all flappy, oil pressure light blinks ("Oh, it's > been doing that since we put the new "factory rebuilt engine" into it").. > GEX engine (Not VW factory rebuilt)... I can keep going, but will stop > here. If you want to know more, please feel free to email me. > > As you can see i was quite preterbed. She FULL OUT lied to me- i asked > very specific questions and she answerd with the best sounding answer. > Some of these items are very minor, but the big ones are very serious and > a 'new' owner should know about them before they write a check. > > Matthew Pollard "Racing with the wind and flirting with death > Dept. Of Chemistry So have a cup of coffee and catch your breath" > University of Idaho > www.uidaho.edu/~poll7356 > > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:39:50 -0800 Reply-To: 80 Westy Pokey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: 80 Westy Pokey Subject: Re: FS; Set of four SA Sunburst with Agilis 51 fitted, balanced... Comments: To: zol@FOXINTERNET.NET Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 Zoltan, I had five 15" SA "Rhein" wheels shipped up from the US to Canada using www.forwardair.com the cost was $50 American. Thanks, Chris From: Zoltan Kuthy Reply-To: Zoltan Kuthy Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 20:04:10 -0800 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: FS; Set of four SA Sunburst with Agilis 51 fitted, balanced... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi all, I have a set of four South African Sunburst mags with center caps, like new, fitted, balanced with the legendary Michelin Agilis 51 Radial X, 205/65 R15. The tires have 2K miles on them. I also have a set of the longer bolts and studs to make them fit right. I live in the Seattle area. $900 OBO Zoltan It is pretty heavy to ship, but can be done. I have no idea that it may cost. Thanks, Chris Gronski '80 Westy "Pokey" - SLOPOKEY '87 Chevrolet Sprint - Ice Racer '91 Pontiac Firefly - Convertable ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:50:19 -0800 Reply-To: Tobin Copley Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Tobin Copley Subject: Re: Interior light/work light Comments: To: mike miller In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Well, it's not exactly what you're describing, but Christa and I bought a 12V trouble light from a Radio Shack store in the states about two years ago, and it works great as a boonies trouble light. It has a very long (20'?) cord which plugs into the cigarette lighter. Light is a very bright bare bulb, which looks like a standard brake light bulb to me. A plastic cage protects the bulb, and it even has a hook like a real trouble light. We paid USD$3.99 for it, and it came with the bulb! Ya just can't pass something like that up! I have no idea if they still sell these. T. At 7:38 AM -0800 11/7/01, mike miller wrote: >Dear Volks, > >I recall a discussion about adding interior lighting in the van and >someone's] found one that mounted and was detachable [like the ones under GM >pickup hoods. They come off and are attached with a cord to the battery >power] so if you need portable light, you got it. > >At least I think I do. But I can't find such an item at my FLAPS nor the >RV dealers around. > >Anyone have a line on such an item or was I hallucinating again? > >TIA > >Mike > >Off to the lost coast up above Phaedra's country. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tobin Copley Bowen Island, BC, Canada 49deg 23'N-123deg 19'W '82 Westfalia 1.6L NA diesel ("Stinky") '97 son Russell ============= '99 daughter Margaret /_| |_L| |__|:| clatter SPEED KILLS! {. .| clatter! Drive a Vanagon diesel ~-()-==----()-~ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 17:44:20 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Armrest removal Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html
I have been trying to remove the drivers seat outer armrest in order to loctite  the screws which have loosened. I researched this and know that the slide pin needs to be hammered out. However I have been hammering the !@$% out of this thing and it is not moving. I have the arm rest in the upright(unused position) and am hitting the pin w/ a punch from the front (In drivers seat). This allows me to hit it the best. Does it have to be hit from the other side? This seems unralistic because it would be difficult to get a straight hit on the punch. Any help much appreciated. Maybe I just need a bigger hammer, but I don't want to bend anything!
 
Randy Charrette
87'Syncro weekender 


Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 15:50:24 -0700 Reply-To: "Richard A. Jones" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Richard A. Jones" Subject: High desert trip report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I finally got the photos up on my trip through the desert country of Utah and Nevada and California, climbing Ibapah Pk and White Mtn. Lots of vanagon roads! http://coyote.colorado.edu/jones/Oct2001 Richard A. Jones Boulder, Colorado '81 Vanagon Mr Bus '87 Syncro Westy El Jefe ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 18:16:04 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Armrest removal Comments: To: rcharrette@HOTMAIL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/7/01 5:47:08 PM, rcharrette@HOTMAIL.COM writes: << Maybe I just need a bigger hammer, but I don't want to bend anything! >> Randy, Every time I have heard someone call for a bigger hammer, disaster was following closely behind and gaining. Make certain your pin drift is the correct size and drive it out from the rear. I think the armrest should be down, but I don't know for certain if it makes a difference. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 18:01:09 -0500 Reply-To: Kenneth D Lewis Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kenneth D Lewis Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights Comments: To: ncc0778@CORP.ATTCANADA.CA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ken Check out my web page to see how I did it. Minimal impact to OEM. I plan on adding some pictures and diagrams of the procedure, when I get some spare time. ;-/ Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab,60 356 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/ On Tue, 6 Nov 2001 21:20:58 -0500 Kenneth Madsen writes: > Over time your head-light lenses will develop a hazy film which will > reduce > your light output. I suggest pouring pure alcohol into your lenses, > cover > the hole and shake. If you can get a large cotton swap or rag on a > stick in > there to agitate the dirt free, would help too. Be careful not to > scratch > the mirror. The ultimate fix would be to make up a wiring harness > with > relays to bypass the wimpy light switch on your dash. I burnt out 2 > of these > already. > This makes a huge difference. > > Here is a link to give you an idea how to do this: > http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/ > Ken Madsen > 87GL - upgraded headlight wiring/relays - S/A lights. > > -----Original Message----- > From: ID Workshop [mailto:idworkshop@HOME.COM] > Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 4:35 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights > > > I have been wondering the same thing. > > I have been planning on upgrading my Synchro's lighting for some > time. > However, I am skeptical of these bulbs and their Performance claims. > It > seems to good (and cheap) to be true. Plus I don't want to get > caught up in > the blue lights/huge exhaust pipe fad that is sweeping the nations > motoring > youth. I just want brighter, safer and mostly legal lighting. > > I'd be interested in anyone else's experiences. > > Jon > > > > > I am having more problems seeing these days "hears but > > does not see". Can anyone give my feedback on the > > plasma blue headlights that I see on ebay from time to > > time. Are they any better than just replacing my > > aging stock low beam with a new bulb? Has anyone > > purchased from ron or ken an upgrade? It is just the > > low beams that give me problems. thanks gary > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Find a job, post your resume. > > http://careers.yahoo.com > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:19:09 -0700 Reply-To: Bob Stevens Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Bob Stevens Subject: Re: Armrest removal Comments: To: rcharrette@HOTMAIL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Randy: the roll pin is flanged or flared on the top end and beveled or tapered on the bottom end. The tapered end must be hit to remove the pin as hitting the flared end will only try to drive it through the hole which is smaller than the flare. It is installed this way hoping gravity will hold it in. As inconvenient as hitting from the bottom is, it is easier once started out to pull the pin out the rest of the way from the top. Reinstallation is relatively easy this way too and would be very difficult getting this thing started from the bottom!!! Good luck...stay patient...and just come back here and write %&*+%$#@&%@+&% when you get frustrated so you don't have a black thumb and broken armrest ;>) Good luck..happy hammering. Bob Stevens '91 Westy _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:44:37 -0500 Reply-To: Hector Zapata Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Hector Zapata Subject: Re: Interior light/work light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I bought one from Pep Boys, plugs to the lighter and has a long cord and a magnetic base. I did buy three 12v sockets: one under the dashboard for my cellphone, another next to the table (Carat) and one on the left side of the cargo area, to plug the light or air compressor. And for the cargo area, I tapped on the 12v direct for the a/c and wired a light that even illuminares the engine at night, also from Pep Boys. So I don't think you're hallucinating (don't know you that well) Hector ----- Original Message ----- From: "mike miller" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:38 AM Subject: Interior light/work light > Dear Volks, > > I recall a discussion about adding interior lighting in the van and > someone's] found one that mounted and was detachable [like the ones under GM > pickup hoods. They come off and are attached with a cord to the battery > power] so if you need portable light, you got it. > > At least I think I do. But I can't find such an item at my FLAPS nor the > RV dealers around. > > Anyone have a line on such an item or was I hallucinating again? > > TIA > > Mike > > Off to the lost coast up above Phaedra's country. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:03:15 -0800 Reply-To: Maximiliano Goldschwartz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maximiliano Goldschwartz Subject: locks MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi Has anyone ever changed the locks for higher security locks? thanks! max ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 17:10:39 -0700 Reply-To: Alfred Bagdan Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Alfred Bagdan Subject: Re: Muffler Strap Comments: To: Blake Thornton MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I cut out the strap part, but reused the still good ends. Found a piece of stainless in my junk box, cut a strap the right length and riveted it to the good ends. Lifetime guarantee. Alfred 85 Westy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake Thornton" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 10:34 AM Subject: Muffler Strap > I am replacing my exhaust system and am wondering if there is any > substitute to the muffler strap. Its a bit expensive and seems like I > should be able to make something else work. > > thanks, > blake > 84 westy > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:21:31 -0800 Reply-To: Maximiliano Goldschwartz Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Maximiliano Goldschwartz Subject: locks - vanagon MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In my last email about security locks I forgot to say that I was referring to a Westy 84 Did anybody ever change the locks for more secure ones? thanks, max ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:27:59 EST Reply-To: BenTbtstr8@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Ben T Subject: FS: 15" X 7 " - 5 X112mm pattern Passat alloy rims. Comments: To: Syncro@egroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, since the wheel discussion has come-up again, I thought I'd throw this out there. I sold my first set of these wheels in eBay last month. These were to be for mine but found an another wheel to use. The wheels are at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597591367 These are the same photos from last time but the wheels are the same. Pmail me if you have any questions as to how to make them fit properly. They are ET45. Easier to fit onto a Syncro. I will take any interesting wheel trades. Why get wheels made when Detlev has some real 16" factory steel rims for sale now? Get him at: DeHanschke@aol.com I got some replica Porsche Fuchs redrilled to fit my Syncro. No more fitting hassles. BenT ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:52:09 EST Reply-To: Clubsb@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Frank Brancolino Subject: Re: Interior light/work light MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I bought from Planet Bike LED head lights very bright, portable, 100 hours on self contained batteries, no wiring needed and at a good price! Frank Trenton, NJ 82 Westy diesel ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:07:21 -0500 Reply-To: Randy Charrette Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Randy Charrette Subject: Re: Armrest removal Comments: To: mtbikerbob@msn.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

Thanks for the help! Upon closer inspection I could see the taper and just hit with a little more force (I guess when something has been in for 14 years it doesn't want to let go). So the screws are cleaned an loctited. Hopefully no more worries! Tahanks again everyone!

Randy Charrette

>From: "Bob Stevens"
>To: rcharrette@HOTMAIL.COM, vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Armrest removal
>Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 16:19:09 -0700
>
>Randy: the roll pin is flanged or flared on the top end and beveled
>or
>tapered on the bottom end. The tapered end must be hit to remove the
>pin as
>hitting the flared end will only try to drive it through the hole
>which is
>smaller than the flare. It is installed this way hoping gravity will
>hold it
>in. As inconvenient as hitting from the bottom is, it is easier once
>started
>out to pull the pin out the rest of the way from the top.
>Reinstallation is
>relatively easy this way too and would be very difficult getting
>this thing
>started from the bottom!!! Good luck...stay patient...and just come
>back
>here and write %&*+%$#@&%@+&% when you get frustrated so you don't
>have a
>black thumb and broken armrest ;>) Good luck..happy hammering.
>
>Bob Stevens
>'91 Westy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
><< message3.txt >>


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========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:12:15 -0600 Reply-To: andrewbell Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: andrewbell Subject: How much longer? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I hope this isn't too long. Please read and respond if you have the time. I've been wrestling with the concept of selling and replacing my Vanagon. I know, what the hell I I thinking? I'm thinking about two points: 1. My '83.5 Van is aging. It is not nickel and diming me, but needs more than periodic maintenance, that I gladly give it because I have this weird bond to it. I enjoy working on this problems that arise to achieve my vision of total Vanagon perfection which is a stock Van with some minor updates. Pics of the Van in question are here: http://www.bellfamilytree.org/vw This point boils down to cash. I have about three grand invested in the Van, and it has 176,000 miles on a stock 1.9. To obtain my idea of Vanagon Zen, I would need a I4 conversion ($4,000), some minor body rust repair ($1000) and a few interior repairs and updates ($500). Give or take 10% either way for savings or nightmares. So in the end I may have about $9000 into a great vehicle that can run for perhaps another 5 years? 2. I own a small business that could totally write off a new vehicle for me, perhaps a '0? EuroVan? Yes, they cost ~$30000 for a new Van, but nothing else for 10 years - theoretically. One would benefit from the dependability and performance of a new Van with a V6, or whatever, not to mention the safety features of ABS and airbag protection. One would also see depreciation, but also no previous ownership that didn't do things right the first time. I'm not necessarily torn between the two, but am questioning investing today in a Van of yesteryear. I won't say that the EuroVan idea is super practical or thrifty, but neither is the maintenance of my beloved Vanagon. If I did get one, I would probably have it for the next 10 years, so I would definitely have quality time with it ... or will VW bag it, too, in favor of the new Micro bus? And if so, isn't' that a good five years away? You know the ins and outs of Vanagons better than anyone. More so than VW, even. I'm not saying I'm going to bag the Vanagon, but I'm questioning my faith in being able to provide for it in a manner that would benefit the vehicle and my family. Have there been any other mis-musings mentioned before? Anyone out there have a EuroVan? A new one? Can anyone forward this to the EuroVan list for me, or send me their address? Thanks in advance - AB ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 17:32:18 -0800 Reply-To: Mark Dorm Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mark Dorm Subject: Re: Interior light/work light/curtains for you Comments: To: Clubsb@AOL.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html

planet-bike.com ... okay, I went there. Which light are you talking about and have you stuck this up inside your vanagon? And as an aside, are there any favorites for curtains, as in keeping interior light from escaping to the outside world? I know there is a curtain made for snapping into carats, and there is a curtain available which involves installing rods....




Unity One Coalition. Our goals: To create a unified federal world government. To build a tollway and bridge system that encircles the globe and joins the continents. To use the resources of the rainforest to build exotic homes for the poor. To prepare mankind for the colonization of the universe. To adapt mankind to a diet of freeze dried fermented pulverized italian roaches, and canned chewed tall fescue grass regurgitated by pigmy chimpanzees living in factories.
>From: Frank Brancolino
>Reply-To: Clubsb@AOL.COM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Interior light/work light
>Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:52:09 EST
>
>I bought from Planet Bike LED head lights very bright, portable, 100 hours on
>self contained batteries, no wiring needed and at a good price!
>Frank
>Trenton, NJ
>82 Westy diesel


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========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:38:40 -0500 Reply-To: Mike Collum Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Mike Collum Subject: Re: How much longer? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I know nothing of EuroVans, in particular, I'm just commenting on the logic. Unless you're paying cash for a new vehicle, a $30,000 price tag is going to end up costing a lot more than $30,000. How about figuring out what your down payment and monthly payments would be to purchase a EuroVan and put that money into a special account instead (a Vanagon account, say)? Oh, and do make all "Payments" to the said account for the number of years the contract would call for. I'd venture to say that such an account would keep your Vanagon alive indefinitely .... certainly more than just 5 more years. My "Other Car" is a '58 Austin Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Sprite with over 330,000 miles on it. With routine maintenance, I expect it to outlive me. Just my 2¢ worth Mike '84 GL "Mongo" P.S. I realize that ... often the only cure for the bite of the "New car bug" is the purchase of a new car. I hope to remain free of this affliction. ----- Original Message ----- From: "andrewbell" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:12 PM Subject: How much longer? > I hope this isn't too long. Please read and respond if you have the > time. > > I've been wrestling with the concept of selling and replacing my > Vanagon. I know, what the hell I I thinking? I'm thinking about two > points: > > 1. My '83.5 Van is aging. It is not nickel and diming me, but needs more > than periodic maintenance, that I gladly give it because I have this > weird bond to it. I enjoy working on this problems that arise to achieve > my vision of total Vanagon perfection which is a stock Van with some > minor updates. Pics of the Van in question are here: > http://www.bellfamilytree.org/vw > > This point boils down to cash. I have about three grand invested in the > Van, and it has 176,000 miles on a stock 1.9. To obtain my idea of > Vanagon Zen, I would need a I4 conversion ($4,000), some minor body rust > repair ($1000) and a few interior repairs and updates ($500). Give or > take 10% either way for savings or nightmares. So in the end I may have > about $9000 into a great vehicle that can run for perhaps another 5 > years? > > 2. I own a small business that could totally write off a new vehicle for > me, perhaps a '0? EuroVan? Yes, they cost ~$30000 for a new Van, but > nothing else for 10 years - theoretically. > > One would benefit from the dependability and performance of a new Van > with a V6, or whatever, not to mention the safety features of ABS and > airbag protection. One would also see depreciation, but also no previous > ownership that didn't do things right the first time. > > I'm not necessarily torn between the two, but am questioning investing > today in a Van of yesteryear. I won't say that the EuroVan idea is super > practical or thrifty, but neither is the maintenance of my beloved > Vanagon. If I did get one, I would probably have it for the next 10 > years, so I would definitely have quality time with it ... or will VW > bag it, too, in favor of the new Micro bus? And if so, isn't' that a > good five years away? > > You know the ins and outs of Vanagons better than anyone. More so than > VW, even. I'm not saying I'm going to bag the Vanagon, but I'm > questioning my faith in being able to provide for it in a manner that > would benefit the vehicle and my family. Have there been any other > mis-musings mentioned before? Anyone out there have a EuroVan? A new > one? Can anyone forward this to the EuroVan list for me, or send me > their address? > > Thanks in advance - > > AB ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:36:17 -0600 Reply-To: Stan Wilder Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stan Wilder Subject: Re: Armrest removal Comments: To: mtbikerbob@MSN.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why not take the seats out so you can get at the pin.? Sounds like it might eliminate some frustration. Stan Wilder ----------------- Snip---------------- As inconvenient as hitting from the bottom is, it is easier once started out to pull the pin out the rest of the way from the top. On Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:19:09 -0700 Bob Stevens writes: > Randy: the roll pin is flanged or flared on the top end and beveled > or > tapered on the bottom end. The tapered end must be hit to remove the > pin as > hitting the flared end will only try to drive it through the hole > which is > smaller than the flare. It is installed this way hoping gravity will > hold it > in. As inconvenient as hitting from the bottom is, it is easier once > started > out to pull the pin out the rest of the way from the top. > Reinstallation is > relatively easy this way too and would be very difficult getting > this thing > started from the bottom!!! Good luck...stay patient...and just come > back > here and write %&*+%$#@&%@+&%&%@+&%&% when you get frustrated so you don't > have a > black thumb and broken armrest ;>) Good luck..happy hammering. > > Bob Stevens > '91 Westy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 21:50:10 -0800 Reply-To: Myron Lind Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Myron Lind Subject: Re: How much longer? Comments: To: andrewbell Make sure you understand the difference in depreciating a new vehicle vs. writing off repairs to the Vanagon. I am not an accountant, but I believe "repairs" are a direct write-off, as opposed to depreciation which you must claim over 5 or 7 years, and then "pay back the difference" when you dispose of it. (This assume your business owns or buys the Vanagon). Also, do you want to incur the possible interest, extra insurance, etc of the new vehicle? Actually I was in the same situation about a month ago. I was going to buy a EV, even bough the Bentley to check it all out. I found a Westy that was just too clean to pass up and accidentally ended up bring it home. I am hoping to TD conversion, similar in cost to the Tiico, and in the end will have a lot less money tied up, more economical vehicle, and something I am vastly more familiar with. That is where I preferred to end up, although I think both ideas are worth considering. I'll sell you the Bentley if you want!! Myron Lind 81 Westy ----- Original Message ----- From: andrewbell To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 5:12 PM Subject: How much longer? > I hope this isn't too long. Please read and respond if you have the > time. > > I've been wrestling with the concept of selling and replacing my > Vanagon. I know, what the hell I I thinking? I'm thinking about two > points: > > 1. My '83.5 Van is aging. It is not nickel and diming me, but needs more > than periodic maintenance, that I gladly give it because I have this > weird bond to it. I enjoy working on this problems that arise to achieve > my vision of total Vanagon perfection which is a stock Van with some > minor updates. Pics of the Van in question are here: > http://www.bellfamilytree.org/vw > > This point boils down to cash. I have about three grand invested in the > Van, and it has 176,000 miles on a stock 1.9. To obtain my idea of > Vanagon Zen, I would need a I4 conversion ($4,000), some minor body rust > repair ($1000) and a few interior repairs and updates ($500). Give or > take 10% either way for savings or nightmares. So in the end I may have > about $9000 into a great vehicle that can run for perhaps another 5 > years? > > 2. I own a small business that could totally write off a new vehicle for > me, perhaps a '0? EuroVan? Yes, they cost ~$30000 for a new Van, but > nothing else for 10 years - theoretically. > > One would benefit from the dependability and performance of a new Van > with a V6, or whatever, not to mention the safety features of ABS and > airbag protection. One would also see depreciation, but also no previous > ownership that didn't do things right the first time. > > I'm not necessarily torn between the two, but am questioning investing > today in a Van of yesteryear. I won't say that the EuroVan idea is super > practical or thrifty, but neither is the maintenance of my beloved > Vanagon. If I did get one, I would probably have it for the next 10 > years, so I would definitely have quality time with it ... or will VW > bag it, too, in favor of the new Micro bus? And if so, isn't' that a > good five years away? > > You know the ins and outs of Vanagons better than anyone. More so than > VW, even. I'm not saying I'm going to bag the Vanagon, but I'm > questioning my faith in being able to provide for it in a manner that > would benefit the vehicle and my family. Have there been any other > mis-musings mentioned before? Anyone out there have a EuroVan? A new > one? Can anyone forward this to the EuroVan list for me, or send me > their address? > > Thanks in advance - > > AB > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 22:11:11 -0500 Reply-To: Data Services Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Data Services Subject: Re: How much longer? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the I4 setup and other improvements you should get more than just 5 years. Plus that I4 (especially if it's a new engine) will bolt up to any Vanagon (maybe a newer one in your future) if an untimly crash or the wages of rust get to your current Zen center. Dave 83 Tiico Westy 83 WBX Westy 59 SO4 Westy ----- Original Message ----- From: "andrewbell" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:12 PM Subject: How much longer? > I hope this isn't too long. Please read and respond if you have the > time. > > I've been wrestling with the concept of selling and replacing my > Vanagon. I know, what the hell I I thinking? I'm thinking about two > points: > > 1. My '83.5 Van is aging. It is not nickel and diming me, but needs more > than periodic maintenance, that I gladly give it because I have this > weird bond to it. I enjoy working on this problems that arise to achieve > my vision of total Vanagon perfection which is a stock Van with some > minor updates. Pics of the Van in question are here: > http://www.bellfamilytree.org/vw > > This point boils down to cash. I have about three grand invested in the > Van, and it has 176,000 miles on a stock 1.9. To obtain my idea of > Vanagon Zen, I would need a I4 conversion ($4,000), some minor body rust > repair ($1000) and a few interior repairs and updates ($500). Give or > take 10% either way for savings or nightmares. So in the end I may have > about $9000 into a great vehicle that can run for perhaps another 5 > years? > > 2. I own a small business that could totally write off a new vehicle for > me, perhaps a '0? EuroVan? Yes, they cost ~$30000 for a new Van, but > nothing else for 10 years - theoretically. > > One would benefit from the dependability and performance of a new Van > with a V6, or whatever, not to mention the safety features of ABS and > airbag protection. One would also see depreciation, but also no previous > ownership that didn't do things right the first time. > > I'm not necessarily torn between the two, but am questioning investing > today in a Van of yesteryear. I won't say that the EuroVan idea is super > practical or thrifty, but neither is the maintenance of my beloved > Vanagon. If I did get one, I would probably have it for the next 10 > years, so I would definitely have quality time with it ... or will VW > bag it, too, in favor of the new Micro bus? And if so, isn't' that a > good five years away? > > You know the ins and outs of Vanagons better than anyone. More so than > VW, even. I'm not saying I'm going to bag the Vanagon, but I'm > questioning my faith in being able to provide for it in a manner that > would benefit the vehicle and my family. Have there been any other > mis-musings mentioned before? Anyone out there have a EuroVan? A new > one? Can anyone forward this to the EuroVan list for me, or send me > their address? > > Thanks in advance - > > AB ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 21:10:47 -0600 Reply-To: Steve Sandlin Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Steve Sandlin Subject: Re: changing lock security Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html
It would be quite difficult to change the lock types, as the locks are integrated into the handles.  The locks are actually quite secure, as they are 10 tumbler units with wafers loaded from both sides, making them fairly difficult to pick.  Realistically, if someone wants into a Vanagon, they're getting in with either a brick or a pry bar.  The lock is not where they are going to attack, unless they are real amateurs.  I can open a Vangon in well under 30 seconds and never touch the lock.  I've never tried picking a Vanagon lock, but I would bet on it taking me at least 2 minutes.  There are many other ways to increase security on our vans before touching the locks.  I'm not saying you can't change to a higher security system.  Throw enough dollars at the problem and something can happen.  There are just other areas in the vehicle design that can be reinforced before the locks should even be considered.
Steve Sandlin
Steve's Lock Shoppe
'84 Wolfsburg Westy
'79 Bus
'00 New Beetle


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========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 21:28:30 +0000 Reply-To: jboldway@INTCON.NET Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "James T." Subject: Tyres Tyre report - my vanagon had Agelis 61s in the rear and Michelin MT4X or whatever the popular Michelin was . .. in the front. This is really weird. I had a van with Michelin MT4X (185 R 14C) all around but bald in rear - replaced with agelis 61's. No real difference. Michelin MT4X in front were severely cracked but loads of tread life left - got flat and replaced rear Agelis 61's with Vredestein Transport snow studded tyres, put Agelis 61s in front. (interm fix - dealer had to order agelis 61s - only avaiable for vanagon campers) Handled best so far. Replaced rear vredestein studs with Agelis 61s - front and rear. Bizzare outcome - rear of van wanders around, van stable in wind, etc. Not happy with agelis all around (48 PSI front , 50 PSi rear). van seems to have 2 flat rear tyres - rocks all around. can't understand how MT4X front and Agelis rear worked fine but agelis 4 x4 works poorly. Vredesteins seemed very stiff in sidewall area. I'd recommend tracking down Vredestein Transport snows for rear tyres before agelis 61s. Stiffen up rear end considerably. So it's a snow tyre. So what? Gee, you loose 10,00 mile tyre life but you have a better handling van? Again, Agelis 4 x 4 suck. Had a hard time controlling it in 15 mph winds. That's no wind for kansas. Like to see it in 40+ mph wind. (no, would NOT like to see it in 40+ mph wind). Cat story - salvage yard mentioned that a cat had been interrned in van for a month but when door opened cat got out. Amazed cat could live for a month on nothing. Went to get steel engine deck lid. Lots of phone book pages torn out everywhere - got garbage can to empty to. Was picking up phone book bits when I felt something weird and heard "ptwaang" drop on engine lid -looked into right hand and discovered i was holding cat skeleton and skull was on engine lid. Guess cat didn't survive month internment in 100+ degree heat. Weird moment. Dropped skeleton like hot potatoe. Then realized what it was and dropped it in trash barrel. Kind of weird for a moment. Anyaway, got steel deck lid for engine compartments as 1 of 3 vans in salvage yard had been burned up due to fire - looks like it went from engine to interior in no time flat. Had plastic engine lid that melted onto engine instantaneously. Hopefully steel lid will prevent such problems. Got 3 fire extinguishers . . . . --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Endymion MailMan. http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 21:48:39 -0600 Reply-To: Dave Baker Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Dave Baker Subject: Re: High desert trip report Comments: To: "Richard A. Jones" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey, Richard. Just spent about an hour looking at your wonderful photos. What a trip! (Now if we can just get Phaedra to put up some of her Mexico stuff...) Dave in KC 85 Westy http://www.fortunecity.com/tinpan/fatima/1154 ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard A. Jones To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 4:50 PM Subject: High desert trip report > I finally got the photos up on my trip through > the desert country of Utah and Nevada and > California, climbing Ibapah Pk and White Mtn. > > Lots of vanagon roads! > > http://coyote.colorado.edu/jones/Oct2001 > > Richard A. Jones > Boulder, Colorado > '81 Vanagon Mr Bus > '87 Syncro Westy El Jefe ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:01:01 -0800 Reply-To: Shawn Wright Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Shawn Wright Subject: Re: what size is the Oil Pressure Sender? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 7 Nov 2001 at 12:26, Matthew Pollard wrote: > What size socket is needed for the oil pressure sender? > > I have for a limited time a really good deal on some metric BIG snap-on > sockets (5$ each! barely used), so what sizes should i get- i was thinking > the oil pressure sender and the front-wheel nut (the big one). > thanks > Here are the ones I have which I think covers the full range (not including the rear hub nut of course...) 24mm - o/p sender 28mm DEEP - diesel injectors (1 1/16" - identical size) 30mm - front wheel nut (both Vanagon & FWD VWs) Shawn & Janis Wright swright@sls.bc.ca http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright (Olympus List Archives) ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:12:53 -0800 Reply-To: PSavage Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: PSavage Subject: Re: High desert trip report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Dave, I have to admit that I've been so busy since I returned from Mexico this spring that I *still don't have a clue as to how to put up a web page with photos. You offered some great leads to the project, but time got away from me & now I am three weeks away from leaving for points south again for the winter. Perhaps I'll buy a book on web page building & take it along to study on the beach, LOL! I *do know how to upload them to my server, one by one, & could maybe post links for a few images, anyway--I'll try to do it before I leave. Phaedra > Hey, Richard. Just spent about an hour looking at your wonderful photos. > What a trip! (Now if we can just get Phaedra to put up some of her Mexico > stuff...) > > Dave in KC > 85 Westy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:39:12 -0800 Reply-To: Kevin Dempsey Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Kevin Dempsey Subject: 1.8t Vanagon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0009_01C167CC.427D9400" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C167CC.427D9400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, Just wanted to tell you the 1.8t project is almost complete. = There are just a few bugs to work out. The 91GL really gets up and moves = though. You don't even use 1st gear. This creation can be viewed at = http://photos.yahoo.com/mattman541 Ingredients: (1) 91GL Vanagon, (1) = 1.8t Audi engine, (2) intercoolers & (?) time & money. I'm pretty sure = my friend Matt thinks it's worth it. If anyone else has done a turbo = conversion I would like to know. Kevin 82 Westy 1.6TD 01 Jetta 1.8t ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C167CC.427D9400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi all,
 
        = Just wanted=20 to tell you the 1.8t project is almost complete. = There are=20 just a few bugs to work out. The 91GL really gets up and moves = though. You=20 don't even use 1st gear. This creation can be viewed at http://photos.yahoo.com/mattm= an541=20 Ingredients: (1) 91GL Vanagon, (1) 1.8t Audi engine, = (2)=20 intercoolers & (?) time & money. I'm = pretty sure=20 my friend Matt thinks it's worth it. If anyone else has done a = turbo=20 conversion I would like to know.
 
 
Kevin
82 Westy 1.6TD
01 Jetta = 1.8t
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C167CC.427D9400-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 23:37:52 -0500 Reply-To: "Carrington, Tom" Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: "Carrington, Tom" Subject: Website update - See trashed bearings! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Howdy list, Tonight I added a really informational tech article written by Stuart MacMillan to my website at http://volksweb.relitech.com Stuart shows how his engine failed, and advises you on how to keep yours from doing the same. He sent me the final version of the article in May, but I have been so busy I really haven't had time to play on my website. Stuart, thanks for the info and your patience!!!! I have another article in the pipeline....give me a few more weeks. This upcoming one was submitted by Frank Grunthaner about his engine conversion! Thanks TomC tcarrington@relitech.com http://www.relitech.com/tomc http://volksweb.relitech.com 85 Vanagon Crew Cab 82 Westy diesel=>gas conversion 81 Checker A-11 (Taxi) 65 Notchback ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 23:59:39 -0500 Reply-To: Jermide Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Jermide Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm with Dave. Just replaced my working headlights with Sylvania Halogen XV (XtraVision). A significant improvement... I have more difficulty spotting the "blue halogen" lights on the road. Maybe the view is better from behind the wheel than in front? Jeremy 85 GL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kitzmann" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 11:00 AM Subject: Re: ebay plasma blue headlights > Don't buy them they won't help you see any better! Normal bulb with blue > coating, they are actually dimmer then normal. > > I bought a set of Sylvania Halogen XP (I think) that are direct > replacements for the original bulb and they work great. Better light > pattern, brighter. For a further boost I'm thinking of running heavier > gauge wires upfront from the battery to reduce the voltage drop. > > Dave K. > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 23:48:04 EST Reply-To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Rico Sapolich Subject: Re: Armrest removal Comments: To: wilden1@juno.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/7/01 9:46:08 PM, wilden1@JUNO.COM writes: << Why not take the seats out so you can get at the pin.? Sounds like it might eliminate some frustration. Stan Wilder >> Stan, Excellent idea! And, baba bing, baba boom, they slide right out. Rich ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 23:52:40 -0500 Reply-To: Stephen Steele Sender: Vanagon Mailing List From: Stephen Steele Subject: Re: changing lock security Comments: To: Steve Sandlin Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="MS_Mac_OE_3088021960_691784_MIME_Part" > THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3088021960_691784_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Steve Sandlin wrote: > There are many other ways to increase security on our vans before touching > the locks. ... There are just other areas in the vehicle design that can > be reinforced before the locks should even be considered. Okay....how about listing the top ten ways to increase security. Please. -- Stephen Chillicothe OH --MS_Mac_OE_3088021960_691784_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: changing lock security
Steve Sandlin wrote:
> There are many other ways to increase security on our vans before touc= hing
> the locks.   ...  There are just other areas in the veh= icle design that can
> be reinforced before the locks should even be considered.


Okay....how about listing the top ten ways to increase security.
Please.
--
Stephen
Chillicothe OH
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