I think the bottom line on rust =
repairs is,
yes, you can but....
If you ARE going to make the effort, and it is
considerable, you should really investigate the cause of the rust in the =
first
place. A scratch? No problem, sand, prime, repaint. =
Paint worn
away by grit, etc.? Again, no problem; maybe add a layer of =
undercoating
before the topcoat. But, a rust perforation from standing water =
will
recur, unless you replace the rusted metal with a non-corroding
substitute. And little body rust flecks are usually due to =
deteriorating
paint: little holes you can't really see, even up close, with the naked =
eye, but
are plenty big enough for the water to reach bare metal, start =
corrosion, and
travel along the soluble rust, furthering the 'cancer'. The only =
real
answer here is the total repaint, and I mean TOTAL, if the cancer is
widespread. That's ALL the body, sanded down to the metal, =
inspected for
corrosion, repaired, primed, painted. $3500 - $4500 is very =
realistic for
this size of job; if it really is a good shop, you're getting a
deal.
But for little jobs, beware: it can get =
messy. Have
you a wind-free place to paint? If not, overspray can dull other =
car
parts; masking the whole vehicle to paint a small fender patch isn't =
unheard
of. Are you prepared to use proper acrylic enamel paint? =
That means
mixing, hardeners, other additives; again, messy. Has the rest of =
the
vehicle's paint job oxidized, even a little? If so, you can make a =
'perfect' match to its paint, and the freshly painted patches will stand =
out
like a sore thumb.
All caveats, and things that are eventually =
overcome by
the patient perfectionist, or ignored by the care-free. If you are =
neither
of these, spend the Hawaii money on the pro job.