Hi
Andrew,
The
vanagon.com archives can be found at http://gerry.vana=
gon.com/archives/vanagon.html
, where I just tried to do the search that I feel sure will net us a =
fine
description of the procedure in question and was confounded by an =
intransigent
search engine that left me hanging for an unacceptably long interval. So =
here it
is:
-- Open both front and rear heater valves fully =
(Rear heater
valve is under rear bench seat accessible through an opening in the =
passenger
side of its cover box. Pull the valve lever forward to
open.)
-- Remove radiator grill (The five slot-headed =
things in the
grill release when turned 90 degrees)
--
Raise van at front about 16" with a floorjack.
-- Put a big flat drip tray under passenger side =
of radiator,
loosen the 13mm bleeder screw on top passenger side of radiator - DON'T =
remove
it. It's a bitch to get back in while hot coolant is trying its best to =
get out.
Put another drip tray at the rear under the main =
reservoir.
--
Fill the engine with 50/50 mix of VW Autobahn coolant (ZVW 237 102) and
water.
-- Open bleeder valve on the "h"-piece =
bleeder
thingy at the front of the engine compartment (front is front, =
remember), or on
the little in-line bleeder assembly ahead of number three cylinder (LF =
of
engine) if yours is an '83.
-- Start engine.
-- Have a steady-footed friend* hold the engine at =
2000 rpm
from now 'til you say otherwise. THIS IS IMPORTANT TO YOUR WELL-BEING =
WHILE YOU
ARE FILLING THE SYSTEM. The speed of the engine is what forces the =
coolant to
the front of the van. If it suddenly slows down during this process it =
WILL do a
damn fine impersonation of a volcano at the fill opening of the main
reservoir.
-- Keep adding coolant until the reservoir is full =
and clear
coolant flows from the radiator bleeder. (In a system with no cylinder =
head
problems, and a good water pump and thermostat, filling the system =
shouldn't
take longer than five minutes or so past the point when the engine =
reaches full
operating temperature as displayed on your temp gauge, and it can take
less.)
--
When the system seems full and you can feel warm coolant circulating =
through the
top of the radiator, close the bleeder valve on the radiator and in the =
engine
compartment, install the cap on the main reservoir and shut down the =
engine for
half a minute or so. You can say "Otherwise!", to your friend =
who's
been faithfully white knuckling the wheel and the gas pedal all this =
time in
terror of letting the engine speed drop lest you be inundated in 200 =
degree ZVW.
This respite allows any remaining air bubbles to puddle up in places =
from which
they can be flushed in the next step, and your friend to prepare for the =
final
stage of the process.)
-- Restart the engine and run at 2000rpm., remove =
cap from
main reservoir, open bleeder valves.
--
When clear bubble-free fluid flows from radiator, close bleeders, top-up =
main
reservoir, install cap, tell your friend to relax, shut off engine. Top =
up
overflow reservoir. Provide your loyal friend with whatever beverage you =
promised beforehand, and Bob's your uncle!
NOTE:
In spite of the most careful bleeding it is still possible to have some =
air
trapped in the system. It can eventually displace coolant in the =
reservoir. If
the level warning light comes on within days, even a couple weeks of =
bleeding
the system, don't panic. Check the level in both reservoirs, top up as =
needed
and road test. If all is intrinsically well with your cooling system you =
won't
do this more than once or maybe twice. ANOTHER NOTE: There is a bleeder =
on the
rear heater which one can open during the bleeding process to let any =
air out of
the rear heater, but this necessitates removal of the cover over the =
heater
which is more or less of a pain in the ass depending on the rear seat
configuration.
* MY
"friend" is a special tool which resembles a caulking gun with =
a four
foot long plunger rod and a hook that slips over the steering wheel. I =
can slide
the plunger down onto the gas pedal and squeeze the "trigger" =
of the
gun thus setting the pedal exactly where I want it. Works for checking =
brake
lights, too. I think they're available in some parts stores, I got mine =
from Mac
Tools.
Have
fun!
Coby
Valley
Wagonworks
"Intimately
acquainted with VW Vans since 1959" =
Volkswagen =
Bus, Vanagon,
Westfalia and Eurovan
Repair and Service
Specialists
1535 Sir =
Francis Drake
Blvd., San Anselmo, CA 94933
Voice:(415) =
457-5628
Fax: (415)
457-0967
http://wagonworks.com=
FONT>
mailto:contact@wagonworks.com<=
/FONT>
Hi
Coby,
Thanks for the =
instruction.
I
went and bought the big funny plier for the big dopey clamps and a =
large
bucket to collect the coolant that might drip onto the
street. The Benley book did not have any =
instruction
of how to assemble/dis-assemble. by trial and error, not =
exactly the
same sequence you described, I removed the H-thingy =
and installed a new
one, and it is now ready to be bled. Please post the procedure for
bleeding.
You
mentioned it might be in the archive. Since I am recently =
become
a proud owner of a VW van (3 months), where is the archive =
and how
to retrieve info from it. =
Thanks!
Andrew
=