Hi Andrew,
 
The vanagon.com archives can be found at http://gerry.vana= gon.com/archives/vanagon.html , where I just tried to do the search that I feel sure will net us a = fine description of the procedure in question and was confounded by an = intransigent search engine that left me hanging for an unacceptably long interval. So = here it is:
 
-- Open both front and rear heater valves fully = (Rear heater valve is under rear bench seat accessible through an opening in the = passenger side of its cover box. Pull the valve lever forward to open.)
-- Remove radiator grill (The five slot-headed = things in the grill release when turned 90 degrees)
-- Raise van at front about 16" with a floorjack.
-- Put a big flat drip tray under passenger side = of radiator, loosen the 13mm bleeder screw on top passenger side of radiator - DON'T = remove it. It's a bitch to get back in while hot coolant is trying its best to = get out. Put another drip tray at the rear under the main = reservoir.
-- Fill the engine with 50/50 mix of VW Autobahn coolant (ZVW 237 102) and water.
-- Open bleeder valve on the "h"-piece = bleeder thingy at the front of the engine compartment (front is front, = remember), or on the little in-line bleeder assembly ahead of number three cylinder (LF = of engine) if yours is an '83.
-- Start engine.
-- Have a steady-footed friend* hold the engine at = 2000 rpm from now 'til you say otherwise. THIS IS IMPORTANT TO YOUR WELL-BEING = WHILE YOU ARE FILLING THE SYSTEM. The speed of the engine is what forces the = coolant to the front of the van. If it suddenly slows down during this process it = WILL do a damn fine impersonation of a volcano at the fill opening of the main reservoir.
-- Keep adding coolant until the reservoir is full = and clear coolant flows from the radiator bleeder. (In a system with no cylinder = head problems, and a good water pump and thermostat, filling the system = shouldn't take longer than five minutes or so past the point when the engine = reaches full operating temperature as displayed on your temp gauge, and it can take less.)
-- When the system seems full and you can feel warm coolant circulating = through the top of the radiator, close the bleeder valve on the radiator and in the = engine compartment, install the cap on the main reservoir and shut down the = engine for half a minute or so. You can say "Otherwise!", to your friend = who's been faithfully white knuckling the wheel and the gas pedal all this = time in terror of letting the engine speed drop lest you be inundated in 200 = degree ZVW. This respite allows any remaining air bubbles to puddle up in places = from which they can be flushed in the next step, and your friend to prepare for the = final stage of the process.)
-- Restart the engine and run at 2000rpm., remove = cap from main reservoir, open bleeder valves.
-- When clear bubble-free fluid flows from radiator, close bleeders, top-up = main reservoir, install cap, tell your friend to relax, shut off engine. Top = up overflow reservoir. Provide your loyal friend with whatever beverage you = promised beforehand, and Bob's your uncle!
 
NOTE: In spite of the most careful bleeding it is still possible to have some = air trapped in the system. It can eventually displace coolant in the = reservoir. If the level warning light comes on within days, even a couple weeks of = bleeding the system, don't panic. Check the level in both reservoirs, top up as = needed and road test. If all is intrinsically well with your cooling system you = won't do this more than once or maybe twice. ANOTHER NOTE: There is a bleeder = on the rear heater which one can open during the bleeding process to let any = air out of the rear heater, but this necessitates removal of the cover over the = heater which is more or less of a pain in the ass depending on the rear seat configuration.
 
* MY "friend" is a special tool which resembles a caulking gun with = a four foot long plunger rod and a hook that slips over the steering wheel. I = can slide the plunger down onto the gas pedal and squeeze the "trigger" = of the gun thus setting the pedal exactly where I want it. Works for checking = brake lights, too. I think they're available in some parts stores, I got mine = from Mac Tools.
 
Have fun!
Coby
Valley Wagonworks
"Intimately acquainted with VW Vans since 1959" =

Volkswagen = Bus, Vanagon, Westfalia and Eurovan
Repair and Service Specialists

1535 Sir = Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo, CA 94933
Voice:(415) = 457-5628
Fax: (415) 457-0967
http://wagonworks.com
mailto:contact@wagonworks.com<= /FONT>

-----Original Message-----
From: PhamA [mailto:PhamA@aurorabio.com]
Sent: Friday, June 04, 1999 = 9:08 AM
To: 'Coby Smolens'
Subject: RE: Air Bleeder Installation for 1.9L water-cooled boxer

Hi Coby,
Thanks for the = instruction.
I went and bought the big funny plier for the big dopey clamps and a = large bucket to collect the coolant that might drip onto the street.  The Benley book did not have any = instruction of how to assemble/dis-assemble.  by trial and error, not = exactly the same sequence you described, I removed the H-thingy = and installed a new one, and it is now ready to be bled.  Please post the procedure for bleeding.
You mentioned it might be in the archive.  Since I am recently = become a proud owner of a VW van (3 months), where is the archive = and how to retrieve info from it.  = Thanks!
Andrew
 
=