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Item #DateTimeRecs Subject
27905505/07/2007:4216Heater core valve in front
27905605/07/2010:5129Re: Heater core valve in front
27905705/07/2007:5432Re: Heater core valve in front
27905805/07/2008:0631Re: Heater core valve in front
27907805/07/2014:5119Re: Heater core valve in front
27907905/07/2012:3841Re: Heater core valve in front
27985405/08/0107:0523Heater valve update
27985705/08/0107:2744Re: Heater valve update
28055705/08/1007:4127Re: [vanagon] Re: New Accessory Front Heater Valve Shut Off Valve.
28363705/09/2020:5730Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
28363905/09/2022:1048Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
28364505/09/2022:0972Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
28366505/09/2106:2388Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
28406905/09/2510:3149Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
28412105/09/2523:5229Re: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
28413805/09/2606:4642Re: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
30437706/07/3014:0728Heater valve
30438106/07/3013:3243Re: Heater valve
30438806/07/3012:2633Re: Heater valve
30439806/07/3016:4454Re: Heater valve
30440206/07/3016:1528Re: Heater valve
30440306/07/3018:2723Re: Heater valve
30442406/07/3109:1041Re: Heater valve
30449106/08/0111:2929Re: heater valve
30449606/08/0111:4330Re: heater valve
30453106/08/0208:5746Heater valve plumbing
30472106/08/0409:5441Re: heater valve
30472206/08/0410:0054Re: Heater valve
30472606/08/0408:3457Re: heater valve
30611406/08/2907:0229Leaky front heater valve?
30612406/08/2907:5039Re: Leaky front heater valve?
30621306/08/3009:0348Re: Leaky front heater valve?
32502207/05/1508:4220Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32502507/05/1512:0433Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32502807/05/1512:1217Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32507307/05/1518:2427Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32507507/05/1521:3041Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32510707/05/1606:5357Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32511007/05/1610:0278Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32511107/05/1610:0430Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
32569007/05/2220:0234Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
33049207/07/2016:0733Hot Foot Relief-Heater valve
33050407/07/2018:3355Re: Hot Foot Relief-Heater valve
33182407/08/0110:2422Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
33182707/08/0111:4335Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
33183207/08/0111:1332Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
33184107/08/0113:3740Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
33184207/08/0114:0153Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
33184607/08/0113:2627Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
33184807/08/0113:3735Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
More hits...
Item #279055 (20 Jul 2005 07:42) - Heater core valve in front
 From: "Greenamyer, William L" <william.l.greenamyer@BOEING.COM>
Subject: Heater core valve in front
MIME-Version: 1.0

Got a question on the front heater core valve. I have it closed but
there appears to be some coolent still getting through the core because
it gets warm in the dash. Is this usually an early failure mode in the
valve or does the cable that adjusts the temperature just need to have
the length adjusted slightly to insure the valve closes?

Item #279056 (20 Jul 2005 10:51) - Re: Heater core valve in front
 From: John Lauterbach <lauterba@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater core valve in front
Comments: To: "Greenamyer, William L" <william.l.greenamyer@BOEING.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 10:42 AM
Subject: Heater core valve in front


Got a question on the front heater core valve. I have it closed but
there appears to be some coolent still getting through the core because
it gets warm in the dash. Is this usually an early failure mode in the
valve or does the cable that adjusts the temperature just need to have
the length adjusted slightly to insure the valve closes?

Item #279057 (20 Jul 2005 07:54) - Re: Heater core valve in front
 From: Keith Ovregaard <kovregaard@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater core valve in front
In-Reply-To: <829FE9F630965345A75B973E657C27F4012EA488@XCH-SW-2V2.sw.nos.boeing.com>

Probably the later. I was just into my 84 heater control recently due
to a sticky cable. I noticed the cable had bent and was not allowing
the valve to close properly. After straightening it out and applying
some lube, it works smooth as silk and closes all the way. Hope that

> Got a question on the front heater core valve. I have it closed but
> there appears to be some coolent still getting through the core because
> it gets warm in the dash. Is this usually an early failure mode in the
> valve or does the cable that adjusts the temperature just need to have
> the length adjusted slightly to insure the valve closes?
>

Item #279058 (20 Jul 2005 08:06) - Re: Heater core valve in front
 From: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater core valve in front
Comments: To: "Greenamyer, William L" <william.l.greenamyer@BOEING.COM>

These heater valves often develop a small amount of leakage past the
shutoff. I have replaced many for this. New ones don't cost much and
should be good for another 10 years. When the old ones are removed I
find I can blow a small amount of air through the closed valve but not
with the new one.

>Got a question on the front heater core valve. I have it closed but
>there appears to be some coolent still getting through the core because
>it gets warm in the dash. Is this usually an early failure mode in the
>valve or does the cable that adjusts the temperature just need to have
>the length adjusted slightly to insure the valve closes?
>

Item #279078 (20 Jul 2005 14:51) - Re: Heater core valve in front
 From: Roger Sisler <rogersisler2000@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater core valve in front

Hello, I once thought I had a problem with this heater control valve. Took
it out to see. I could blow through it when closed, so I thought it was
bad. I was wrong. The replacement valve also allowed me to blow through it
when closed.I cant explain this, but I put the old one back in and just
adjusted the cable,and all was well.If it is leaking externally it may be a
bad valve. Like said above, adjusting the cable is a bear.I think this
adjustment is near the radio. The heater vent flaps are removable. Look
closely at them and you will see a little black plastic clip that can be

Item #279079 (20 Jul 2005 12:38) - Re: Heater core valve in front
 From: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater core valve in front
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2005072015030255@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
should flow through the vale when it is closed. If not, it is a bad
valve, new or not. Any tiny leakage is most noticeable in 87+ since
these have a different dash air flow path. Before then the main dash air
vents carried only outside air, fresh. The 87+ pass this air through the
heater core at all times. In summer this makes even small leak of
coolant heat this air to an annoying degree. I have replaced
internally leaking heater valves on many Vanagons, a recently as a few
weeks ago. You should be able to blow ZERO air through a new one. Take

>Hello, I once thought I had a problem with this heater control valve. Took
>it out to see. I could blow through it when closed, so I thought it was
>bad. I was wrong. The replacement valve also allowed me to blow through it
>when closed.I cant explain this, but I put the old one back in and just
>adjusted the cable,and all was well.If it is leaking externally it may be a
>bad valve. Like said above, adjusting the cable is a bear.I think this
>adjustment is near the radio. The heater vent flaps are removable. Look
>closely at them and you will see a little black plastic clip that can be

Item #279854 (1 Aug 2005 07:05) - Heater valve update
 From: "Greenamyer, William L" <william.l.greenamyer@BOEING.COM>
Subject: Heater valve update
MIME-Version: 1.0
For all those with an interest, it does appear that the wire control to
the heater valve really doesn't have a good end on it and thus, the
valve really doesn't close all the way. This was causing the core to
get worm enough to throw heat into the van. When I am driving on the
highway in California and the temperature is 100 outside, I didn't need
any more heat. Had to drop the tire and move the valve to the closed
position to actually get it to shut off (the dash lever didn't go far
enough). No heat experienced this morning. Is there any other type of
arrangement for attachment of the heater cable to the valve that doesn't
allow for the play experienced? I would hate to bend the wire around

Item #279857 (1 Aug 2005 07:27) - Re: Heater valve update
 From: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater valve update
Comments: To: "Greenamyer, William L" <william.l.greenamyer@BOEING.COM>

The cable play can be adjusted at either end. The valve end has a pita
clip you can remove and then slide the cable sheath to give more or less
>For all those with an interest, it does appear that the wire control to
>the heater valve really doesn't have a good end on it and thus, the
>valve really doesn't close all the way. This was causing the core to
>get worm enough to throw heat into the van. When I am driving on the
>highway in California and the temperature is 100 outside, I didn't need
>any more heat. Had to drop the tire and move the valve to the closed
>position to actually get it to shut off (the dash lever didn't go far
>enough). No heat experienced this morning. Is there any other type of
>arrangement for attachment of the heater cable to the valve that doesn't
>allow for the play experienced? I would hate to bend the wire around

Item #280557 (10 Aug 2005 07:41) - Re: [vanagon] Re: New Accessory Front Heater Valve Shut Off Valve.
 From: Jon Brown <jbrown510@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: [vanagon] Re: New Accessory Front Heater Valve Shut Off Valve.
MIME-Version: 1.0
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [vanagon] Re: New Accessory Front Heater Valve Shut Off =
Valve.

Item #283637 (20 Sep 2005 20:57) - Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
 From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
MIME-Version: 1.0

I finally go that cover off the heater. I couldn't get my saw blade into
the slot and would up haveing to unbolt the rear seat to get at the

Now I discover a couple of weird things about the new valve.

fits into the groove???
Secondly, when I operate the new valve through it's range, I note that
the hole goes from closed completely to a tiny opening about 1/4 inch or
less. Does't that valve supposed to open and provide full flow through
the valve? There is no way for that to happen the way this new one is
put together. Maybe I have a faulty valve, assembled incorrectly at the
factory???

Item #283639 (20 Sep 2005 22:10) - Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
 From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
Comments: To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>

The valve is supposed to have the restriction. Too much flow to the rear
heater will result in too little flow to the front heater. Also, since
the rear heater re-circulates inside air, and the core is fairly small,
It does not need or benefit from more flow. In fact, more flow = more
erosion = short life before leaks. The o-ring does not come with the
valve.

To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve

I finally go that cover off the heater. I couldn't get my saw blade into
the slot and would up haveing to unbolt the rear seat to get at the

Now I discover a couple of weird things about the new valve.

fits into the groove???
Secondly, when I operate the new valve through it's range, I note that
the hole goes from closed completely to a tiny opening about 1/4 inch or
less. Does't that valve supposed to open and provide full flow through
the valve? There is no way for that to happen the way this new one is
put together. Maybe I have a faulty valve, assembled incorrectly at the
factory???

Item #283645 (20 Sep 2005 22:09) - Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
 From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@optonline.net>

Are you saying the valve is supposed to have a seal or "O" ring but it
does not ordinarily come with the valve? That is a separate item that
one must order??
Maybe I should just goop it up with Plumbers Goop! If you can seal hip
boots with it so they don't leak, surely it would prevent that valve
from leaking at the seal!!!

>The valve is supposed to have the restriction. Too much flow to the rear
>heater will result in too little flow to the front heater. Also, since
>the rear heater re-circulates inside air, and the core is fairly small,
>It does not need or benefit from more flow. In fact, more flow = more
>erosion = short life before leaks. The o-ring does not come with the
>valve.
>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
>
>I finally go that cover off the heater. I couldn't get my saw blade into
>the slot and would up haveing to unbolt the rear seat to get at the
>
>Now I discover a couple of weird things about the new valve.
>
>fits into the groove???
>Secondly, when I operate the new valve through it's range, I note that
>the hole goes from closed completely to a tiny opening about 1/4 inch or
>less. Does't that valve supposed to open and provide full flow through
>the valve? There is no way for that to happen the way this new one is
>put together. Maybe I have a faulty valve, assembled incorrectly at the
>factory???

Item #283665 (21 Sep 2005 06:23) - Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
 From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
Comments: To: John Rodgers <inua@charter.net>
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve


Are you saying the valve is supposed to have a seal or "O" ring but it
does not ordinarily come with the valve? That is a separate item that
one must order??
Maybe I should just goop it up with Plumbers Goop! If you can seal hip
boots with it so they don't leak, surely it would prevent that valve
from leaking at the seal!!!

>The valve is supposed to have the restriction. Too much flow to the
rear
>heater will result in too little flow to the front heater. Also, since
>the rear heater re-circulates inside air, and the core is fairly small,
>It does not need or benefit from more flow. In fact, more flow = more
>erosion = short life before leaks. The o-ring does not come with the
>valve.
>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Sum' b*tch - Rear Heater Valve
>
>I finally go that cover off the heater. I couldn't get my saw blade
into
>
>Now I discover a couple of weird things about the new valve.
>
>fits into the groove???
>Secondly, when I operate the new valve through it's range, I note that
>the hole goes from closed completely to a tiny opening about 1/4 inch
or
>less. Does't that valve supposed to open and provide full flow through
>the valve? There is no way for that to happen the way this new one is
>put together. Maybe I have a faulty valve, assembled incorrectly at the
>factory???

Item #284069 (25 Sep 2005 10:31) - Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
 From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
MIME-Version: 1.0

This valve is working me pretty hard.

To update - had to loosen up the rear seat, then cut away some of that
floor insulation/sound proofing material on the floor to get the heater
cover out. Finally got it done, made the cut-out in the cover and
checked it for fit. Works fine. Discovred the new valve did not have a
seal with it, and had to order it. Will be here next week. So, hurry up
Drove over to the FLAPS for some parts, and got a big whiff of coolant.
Before shutting down at the FLAPS I checked thtat rear heater. The valve
was peeing coolant like crazy under the back seat. . I got out some
little pieces of wood, put them on the hoses to the heater, and clamped
the hoses shut with Visegrips. Leaked stopped until I got home.

Once home, I bypassed the heater by pulling the hoses loose from the
heater, and joining them together with a piece of hard plastic tube.

I removed the valve, and found that little flat gasket or seal. In
looking at the face of the valve, and looking at the place where it
seats, I cannot help but wonder why a full surface gasket properly cut,

Item #284121 (25 Sep 2005 23:52) - Re: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
 From: George Goff <THX0001@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
Comments: To: inua@CHARTER.NET
flex in the assembly will lessen the clamping force at its midpoint and
possibly leak. The last time I replaced a rear heater valve, I am fairly certain
that I used a standard round section O-ring which sealed perfectly.

Item #284138 (26 Sep 2005 06:46) - Re: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
 From: Shawn Wright <swright@ZUIKO.SLS.BC.CA>
Subject: Re: Sum' B*tch - Rear Heater Valve - again2
In-Reply-To: <1c2.31cd8c3a.3068ca9a@aol.com>
> slight flex in the assembly will lessen the clamping force at its midpoint and
> possibly leak. The last time I replaced a rear heater valve, I am fairly
> certain that I used a standard round section O-ring which sealed perfectly.
Likewise, after trying RTV silicon along with the old hardened o-ring (which didn't
work), I finally went to the hardware store with the valve, and found an o-ring
suitable. It's been fine ever since. If I recall, it was a slightly tight fit on the inner

Item #304377 (30 Jul 2006 14:07) - Heater valve
 From: Brian Honan <cartruckbus@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Heater valve
MIME-Version: 1.0

Heater valve, replaced about 15K miles ago, and what a great time of year
for it to start leaking again. I proubly should not even notice the heater
on because it is so hot outside.

I have heard it sugested replaceing it with a metal ball valve from the
hardware store. Has anyone tried this ? are there convertion conectors for

Item #304381 (30 Jul 2006 13:32) - Re: Heater valve
 From: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
Comments: To: Brian Honan <cartruckbus@GMAIL.COM>

Which heater valve are you talking about?

>
> Heater valve, replaced about 15K miles ago, and what a great time
> of year
> for it to start leaking again. I proubly should not even notice the
> heater
> on because it is so hot outside.
>
> I have heard it sugested replaceing it with a metal ball valve
> from the

Item #304388 (30 Jul 2006 12:26) - Re: Heater valve
 From: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <e49bd5460607301107o7274531bg754924c87404c4af@mail.gmail.com>
>
> Heater valve, replaced about 15K miles ago, and what a great time of year
> for it to start leaking again. I proubly should not even notice the heater
> on because it is so hot outside.
>
> I have heard it sugested replaceing it with a metal ball valve from the
> hardware store. Has anyone tried this ? are there convertion conectors for
not closing all the way and the cable that operates it needs adjustment. As
for the metal ball valve, that's pretty easy, if you decide you want that.
two 5/8" hose barb fittings screwed into either end of the valve, a couple
hose clamps, and you have all you need.

Item #304398 (30 Jul 2006 16:44) - Re: Heater valve
 From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
Comments: To: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>

Do you know if the metal ball valve types are any easier to actuate??
The vlave on my van is really stiff, and difficult, especially in winter.
>>
>> Heater valve, replaced about 15K miles ago, and what a great time of
>> year
>> for it to start leaking again. I proubly should not even notice the
>> heater
>> on because it is so hot outside.
>>
>> I have heard it sugested replaceing it with a metal ball valve
>> from the
> adjustment. As
> for the metal ball valve, that's pretty easy, if you decide you want
> that.
> two 5/8" hose barb fittings screwed into either end of the valve, a
> couple

Item #304402 (30 Jul 2006 16:15) - Re: Heater valve
 From: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <44CD283E.2060400@charter.net>

> Do you know if the metal ball valve types are any easier to actuate??
> The vlave on my van is really stiff, and difficult, especially in winter.
degrees; but they're also harder in that the most accessable place you
can usually splice them is inline with the heater hose coming up out
of the floor, meaning you have to pull off the footwell heat deflector
thingy to get at 'em. The general idea behind a second, more reliable
valve is the observation that the factory valves develop trouble
shutting all the way, but are still fine for adjusting the flow rate
up and down. The plumbing valve is installed to act as simply a
dependable shutoff valve you turn off in spring and turn back on in
fall.

Item #304403 (30 Jul 2006 18:27) - Re: Heater valve
 From: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
Comments: To: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>

If you're talking about the front heater valve, search the archives
for a detailed article I submitted. If you can't find it, email me. I
found a way to do the job in about 30 minutes by dropping the heater
valve down to floor level so you don't have to work on it up in "the
box." I have labeled pictures to go with the article. The pictures

Item #304424 (31 Jul 2006 09:10) - Re: Heater valve
 From: Brian Honan <cartruckbus@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <DD2B2CA5-7209-43CD-B7D7-94FA225FAA27@knology.net>
joint sounds like it will be the best fix. I had disconected the wire going
to the valve and had a cool van for a small period of time. I would be
delighted to simply take my tire down and turn my heat off in the spring and

If you're talking about the front heater valve, search the archives
> for a detailed article I submitted. If you can't find it, email me. I
> found a way to do the job in about 30 minutes by dropping the heater
> valve down to floor level so you don't have to work on it up in "the
> box." I have labeled pictures to go with the article. The pictures

Item #304491 (1 Aug 2006 11:29) - Re: heater valve
 From: don spence <dkspence@TELUS.NET>
Subject: Re: heater valve
Comments: cc: jbange@GMAIL.COM
John
Is there a place to install the ball valve where it is accessible
from inside the vehicle, or better yet can be controlled on the
> adjustment. As
> for the metal ball valve, that's pretty easy, if you decide you
> want that.
> two 5/8" hose barb fittings screwed into either end of the valve, a
> couple

Item #304496 (1 Aug 2006 11:43) - Re: heater valve
 From: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: heater valve
In-Reply-To: <664FCE04-CF06-4259-A4A6-AF63C46BC9BF@telus.net>

> Is there a place to install the ball valve where it is accessible from
> inside the vehicle, or better yet can be controlled on the dash? (push rod
I don't have one installed myself, but I've seen pictures of them
installed in-line with the heater hose behind the air deflector behind
the shifter. I reckon there's enough straight hose there to cut out
and splice in the valve. I reckon it'd be POSSIBLE to rig something up
with the dash lever, but I'd sure hate to be the one engineering it
with off-the-shelf parts. Most people seem to use the additional valve
as a positive shutoff for the summer and use the OEM valve for
temperature control in the winter.
Just thinking out loud, but does anyone know why one couldn't relocate
the OEM valve to that spot there, behind the air deflector? That'd
certainly make it easier to futz with...

Item #304531 (2 Aug 2006 08:57) - Heater valve plumbing
 From: Brian Honan <cartruckbus@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Heater valve plumbing
MIME-Version: 1.0

Yesterday I installed a regular plumbing valve to the in line to the front
heater core.

did not have the 3/8 barbs for the end. The best fit was a regular
1/2" not ball valve, unfortunately. there was not alot of nub to get the
hose on and I had to force the hose on, but it went on tight so I went with
At first I chose to take out a strait splicer that was in the out line
hose, it seemed it would be easier to work on than replacing the valve that
was further up the other hose. However I found out that this old hose that
had hose clamps crimped on it for years was not going to give to the 1/2
valve. I would need to cut right into some fresh hose to install this. I
had some reservations about this and started to think that my van is not
I was soaked with antifreeze and determined to do something about this heat
problem. So I cut into my good hose before the bad valve
and installed the plumbing valve.

temp gauge finally sat right in the middle, I must have a pin hole leak in
the heater core. Maybe I will get a real vanagon valve when I replace the
heater core.
For now, the the van is running cooler, and the cab is cooler, although the

I was mostly frustrated that the valve went bad that I had replaced not
that long ago.

Item #304721 (4 Aug 2006 09:54) - Re: heater valve
 From: Ron Mueller <wasserbox@MSN.COM>
Subject: Re: heater valve
Comments: To: don spence <dkspence@TELUS.NET>

A manula heater valve can be installed anyhwere in the inbound heater hose.
To add a push rod, or cable would require some mechanical dextarity.
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: heater valve

> John
> Is there a place to install the ball valve where it is accessible
> from inside the vehicle, or better yet can be controlled on the
> > adjustment. As
> > for the metal ball valve, that's pretty easy, if you decide you
> > want that.
> > two 5/8" hose barb fittings screwed into either end of the valve, a
> > couple

Item #304722 (4 Aug 2006 10:00) - Re: Heater valve
 From: Ron Mueller <wasserbox@MSN.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater valve
Comments: To: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: Heater valve


> Which heater valve are you talking about?
>
> >
> > Heater valve, replaced about 15K miles ago, and what a great time
> > of year
> > for it to start leaking again. I proubly should not even notice the
> > heater
> > on because it is so hot outside.
> >
> > I have heard it sugested replaceing it with a metal ball valve
> > from the

Item #304726 (4 Aug 2006 08:34) - Re: heater valve
 From: Mark Drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: heater valve
Comments: To: Ron Mueller <wasserbox@MSN.COM>
Or even the outbound hose. Both hoses are easy to access under the van
near the sliding door. Putting a valve there is easy and might make
sense for a master valve that gets turned on/off only seasonally.
Personally I consider this type of "fix" to be butchery. The stock valve
does not cost much. Make sure that any new one you buy closes all the

> A manula heater valve can be installed anyhwere in the inbound heater hose.
> To add a push rod, or cable would require some mechanical dextarity.
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 12:29 PM
> Subject: Re: heater valve
>
>>John
>> Is there a place to install the ball valve where it is accessible
>>from inside the vehicle, or better yet can be controlled on the
>>>adjustment. As
>>>for the metal ball valve, that's pretty easy, if you decide you
>>>want that.
>>>two 5/8" hose barb fittings screwed into either end of the valve, a
>>>couple

Item #306114 (29 Aug 2006 07:02) - Leaky front heater valve?
 From: Shawn Wright <vwdiesels@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Leaky front heater valve?
MIME-Version: 1.0

While replacing my rad, I also removing my front heater control valve, since
I still seemed to be getting heat in the core even with the valve fully closed. I
had already checked that the control cable was closing it all the way.
Blowing in the valve shows that there is some leakage, but not a lot -
blowing as hard as I can produces a barely noticeable amount of air coming

I recall others commenting on this valve leaking. How much does it have to
leak to be a problem? Is there some other explanation? Could reversing the

Item #306124 (29 Aug 2006 07:50) - Re: Leaky front heater valve?
 From: Mark Drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Leaky front heater valve?
Comments: To: Shawn Wright <vwdiesels@GMAIL.COM>

That is all it takes in warm weather, a tiny leak. Check any new valve
the same way. If you can blow though it at all when closed, reject it.

> While replacing my rad, I also removing my front heater control valve, since
> I still seemed to be getting heat in the core even with the valve fully closed. I
> had already checked that the control cable was closing it all the way.
> Blowing in the valve shows that there is some leakage, but not a lot -
> blowing as hard as I can produces a barely noticeable amount of air coming
>
> I recall others commenting on this valve leaking. How much does it have to
> leak to be a problem? Is there some other explanation? Could reversing the

Item #306213 (30 Aug 2006 09:03) - Re: Leaky front heater valve?
 From: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject: Re: Leaky front heater valve?
Comments: To: Shawn Wright <vwdiesels@GMAIL.COM>

Shawn, in the last year I've replaced the heater valve on both
Vanagons. Once the valve is off, the amount of leaking seemed small
compared to the amount of heat that was coming out, in both cases.

> While replacing my rad, I also removing my front heater control
> valve, since
> I still seemed to be getting heat in the core even with the valve
> fully closed. I
> had already checked that the control cable was closing it all the way.
> Blowing in the valve shows that there is some leakage, but not a lot -
> blowing as hard as I can produces a barely noticeable amount of air
>
> I recall others commenting on this valve leaking. How much does it
> have to

Item #325022 (15 May 2007 08:42) - Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Larry Word <larry_word@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
MIME-Version: 1.0

Item #325025 (15 May 2007 12:04) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
Comments: To: Larry Word <larry_word@YAHOO.COM>

Terry Kay offers such a valve which can be seen on this page (scroll
down a little). It includes verbage on the installation:

Item #325028 (15 May 2007 12:12) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
Comments: To: Larry Word <larry_word@YAHOO.COM>
I got some here:
http://www.benplace.com/front_heater_valve.htm

Don't forget to clamp the hose before and after the valve, if not, well,
coolant will flow...

Item #325073 (15 May 2007 18:24) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
In-Reply-To: <4649DA12.6040405@verizon.net>
>
> Terry Kay offers such a valve which can be seen on this page (scroll
> down a little). It includes verbage on the installation:
Personally, I find $25 to be a little steep. If I were going that route, I'd
stop by the hardware store and buy a couple 5/8" barb fittings and a valve
and build it myself out of BRASS rather than plastic. I also would use
proper spring clamps rather than those horrid cheese grater ones he shows.
Seriously, what could that toy plastic valve and fittings be costing him,
three bucks maybe? You could definitely do better on your own.

Item #325075 (15 May 2007 21:30) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
Comments: To: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>

I don't have any trouble with my OEM valve shutting completely off so
I've never considered an add on.
>>
>> Terry Kay offers such a valve which can be seen on this page (scroll
>> down a little). It includes verbage on the installation:
> I'd
> stop by the hardware store and buy a couple 5/8" barb fittings and a valve
> and build it myself out of BRASS rather than plastic. I also would use
> proper spring clamps rather than those horrid cheese grater ones he shows.
> Seriously, what could that toy plastic valve and fittings be costing him,
> three bucks maybe? You could definitely do better on your own.

Item #325107 (16 May 2007 06:53) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Raymond Paquette <raymondpaquette@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
Comments: To: Mike Collum <collum@verizon.net>

I read (on this list) a post that you should always leave the rear heater
valve cracked a bit so that a little coolant always flows. The concern was
coolant sitting in the core for half the year and starting corrosion.
If for the rear, then why not a concern for the front?
If for the vanagon heater core(s), why not every vehicle?

>
> I don't have any trouble with my OEM valve shutting completely off so
> I've never considered an add on.
> >>
> >> Terry Kay offers such a valve which can be seen on this page (scroll
> >> down a little). It includes verbage on the installation:
> > stop by the hardware store and buy a couple 5/8" barb fittings and a
> valve
> > and build it myself out of BRASS rather than plastic. I also would use
> shows.
> > Seriously, what could that toy plastic valve and fittings be costing
> him,

Item #325110 (16 May 2007 10:02) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
Comments: To: Raymond Paquette <raymondpaquette@gmail.com>
I've had my '84 7 passenger since '91 (16 years) and the first 8 were in
Hawaii. Leaving the rear heater valve shut off for long periods has not
caused me any problems with the core. It's the same one that was in it
when I got it. I did have to replace the O-ring at the valve several
years ago but it had gotten hard so it was simply time for that one.
> I read (on this list) a post that you should always leave the rear
> heater valve cracked a bit so that a little coolant always flows. The
> concern was coolant sitting in the core for half the year and starting
> If for the rear, then why not a concern for the front?
> If for the vanagon heater core(s), why not every vehicle?
>
>
> I don't have any trouble with my OEM valve shutting completely off so
> I've never considered an add on.
> >>
> >> Terry Kay offers such a valve which can be seen on this page
> (scroll
> > stop by the hardware store and buy a couple 5/8" barb fittings
> and a valve
> > and build it myself out of BRASS rather than plastic. I also
> he shows.
> > Seriously, what could that toy plastic valve and fittings be
> costing him,

Item #325111 (16 May 2007 10:04) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
Comments: cc: Raymond Paquette <raymondpaquette@gmail.com>
> I've had my '84 7 passenger since '91 (16 years) and the first 8 were in
> Hawaii. Leaving the rear heater valve shut off for long periods has not
> caused me any problems with the core. It's the same one that was in it
> when I got it. I did have to replace the O-ring at the valve several
> years ago but it had gotten hard so it was simply time for that one.

Item #325690 (22 May 2007 20:02) - Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
 From: John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Front drivers heater - cut off valve installation guide
In-Reply-To: <6da579340705151824l6f166725ybddb7de4545564a8@mail.gmail.com>

> Terry Kay offers such a valve which can be seen on this page (scroll
> > down a little). It includes verbage on the installation:
> I'd stop by the hardware store and buy a couple 5/8" barb fittings and a
> valve and build it myself out of BRASS rather than plastic. I also would use
> proper spring clamps rather than those horrid cheese grater ones he shows.
> Seriously, what could that toy plastic valve and fittings be costing him,
> three bucks maybe? You could definitely do better on your own.

Got a pmail from Terry today regarding his valve. In his usual reasonable
and diplomatic way, he informs me I should have known that his valve is a
quality Parker synthetic valve with teflon seals and comes with full wrap
around stainless clamps. This, I reckon, was supposed to be obvious from an
unfocussed 320x240 picture showing the valve with two cheap cheese-grater
clamps. So, despite a complete lack of useful information indicating such on
his web page, it seems that his valve may indeed be entirely worth that $25
asking price.

Item #330492 (20 Jul 2007 16:07) - Hot Foot Relief-Heater valve
 From: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Hot Foot Relief-Heater valve
MIME-Version: 1.0

http://www.obsolyte.com/personal/vanagon_heater_1.jpgThis is not the valve =
I used but is precisely a great example of the Terry K model I just install=

Do this. Get one. You can either take that heater duct off or take 10 secon=
ds and remove the glove box and do it from there. Very easy to switch back =

Item #330504 (20 Jul 2007 18:33) - Re: Hot Foot Relief-Heater valve
 From: Tom Sinclair <neeemo@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Hot Foot Relief-Heater valve
Comments: To: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>
>
http://www.obsolyte.com/personal/vanagon_heater_1.jpgThis
> is not the valve I used but is precisely a great
> example of the Terry K model I just installed. IT
>
> Do this. Get one. You can either take that heater
> duct off or take 10 seconds and remove the glove box

Item #331824 (1 Aug 2007 10:24) - Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: "Mike \"Rocket J Squirrel\" Elliott" <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
MIME-Version: 1.0

I've got my mitts on one of Terry K's heater shutoff valves. Tired of
baking my toes when driving, y' see. The spare is dropped and I see the
heater feed and return hoses, one of which already has a coupler in it
with a couple of hose clamps on it, the perfect place to install this
valve. I reckon I should pinch shut the hose with a couple of c-clamps
before opening the line?

Item #331827 (1 Aug 2007 11:43) - Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: Tom Buese <tombuese@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
Comments: To: "Mike \"Rocket J Squirrel\" Elliott" <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>

> I've got my mitts on one of Terry K's heater shutoff valves. Tired of
> baking my toes when driving, y' see.
I may be deluding myself, but
Are you closing the heater levers in the proper Rubik's combination
so that there is no heat coming out, but only nice fresh air?
> The spare is dropped and I see the
> heater feed and return hoses, one of which already has a coupler in it
> with a couple of hose clamps on it, the perfect place to install this
> valve. I reckon I should pinch shut the hose with a couple of c-clamps
> before opening the line?

Item #331832 (1 Aug 2007 11:13) - Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: "Mike \"Rocket J Squirrel\" Elliott" <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
Comments: To: Tom Buese <tombuese@comcast.net>
> I may be deluding myself, but
> Are you closing the heater levers in the proper Rubik's combination so
> that there is no heat coming out, but only nice fresh air?

Howdy, Tom. Yep, second valve from the top all the way to the left is
meant to turn off hot water to the heater core. Can't tell for sure if
it does what it is supposed to do, fully, but I do know that my toes get

Item #331841 (1 Aug 2007 13:37) - Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
MIME-Version: 1.0
"Rocket",
Take the glove box off and up on the left you will see 2 heater hoses. Pinc=
h off (I used small vice-grips) about 5" apart, cut a 2"-3" section of the =
lower (closest, easiest to work with) hose out, insert the TK valve, tighte=
n the stainless clamps, put the glove box back on and yur good to go.
e tarp on the floor and it worked well ... kind like a big "pan".
Oh, by the way, be sure the yellow valve is in the closed position before p=
utting the glove box back on.

This is the easiest way to access and turn the valve back to open without g=
etting on your back, under the van.
r levers in the proper Rubik's combination so> > that there is no heat comi=
ng out, but only nice fresh air?> > Howdy, Tom. Yep, second valve from the =
top all the way to the left is> meant to turn off hot water to the heater c=
ore. Can't tell for sure if> it does what it is supposed to do, fully, but =

Item #331842 (1 Aug 2007 14:01) - Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: Tom Buese <tombuese@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
Comments: To: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>

So am I correct in understanding that the TK valve is to rectify a
seal problem in the vent. box & if you don't have this problem, you
> "Rocket",
> Take the glove box off and up on the left you will see 2 heater
> hoses. Pinch off (I used small vice-grips) about 5" apart, cut a
> 2"-3" section of the lower (closest, easiest to work with) hose
> out, insert the TK valve, tighten the stainless clamps, put the
> glove box back on and yur good to go.
> big "pan".
> Oh, by the way, be sure the yellow valve is in the closed position
> before putting the glove box back on.
>
> This is the easiest way to access and turn the valve back to open
> without getting on your back, under the van.
> AM Tom Buese wrote:> > > I may be deluding myself, but> > Are you
> closing the heater levers in the proper Rubik's combination so> >
> that there is no heat coming out, but only nice fresh air?> >
> Howdy, Tom. Yep, second valve from the top all the way to the left
> is> meant to turn off hot water to the heater core. Can't tell for
> sure if> it does what it is supposed to do, fully, but I do know

Item #331846 (1 Aug 2007 13:26) - Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: "Mike \"Rocket J Squirrel\" Elliott" <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
Comments: To: Tom Buese <tombuese@COMCAST.NET>

> So am I correct in understanding that the TK valve is to rectify a
> seal problem in the vent. box & if you don't have this problem, you

Item #331848 (1 Aug 2007 13:37) - Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
 From: Mark Drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Inserting Terry K heater shutoff valve
Comments: To: Tom Buese <tombuese@COMCAST.NET>

The TK valve is a way to stop the heat without doing a proper repair.
The proper repair is to replace the stock valve with a new one and make
sure the cable is straight and adjusted right. Some people find this
challenging and so the TK valve is a quick and dirty way to avoid the
real fix. I prefer the real fix and have done it to more Vanagons than I

Quick and dirty fixes have their place. The TK valve works fine for the
guy who puts it in, knows it is there, and remembers to use it. The
Tom Buese wrote:
> So am I correct in understanding that the TK valve is to rectify a
> seal problem in the vent. box & if you don't have this problem, you

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