Africa by Bus - Prepping a van for a trip through the dark continent By John W. Conner VW & Porsche, (no idea what year) In 1977 I drove a Volkswagen van the entire length of the continent of Africa. I crossed the sands of the Sahara, traveled the mud tracks of the Congo and pounded the rocky roads of east Africa. While planning the trip in my native Australia, I had just about made up my mind to use some kind of four-wheel drive, probably a Land Rover. But, as I gathered more information, I changed my ideas and decided on a 1600cc VW van. There were two main reasons for this choice: One was purely economics. In many of the countries I was to visit, gasoline had topped the four dollar per gallon mark (when you could get it), so the miserly VW 1600 would save me much money. Secondly, the VW is one of the few truly international vehicles. Spares and service can be found even in Africa. My starting point for the journey was London, England. I immediately set about looking for a suitable van. It took me three weeks and over 30 rejected vans before I found what I wanted. While searching I had a simple checklist. I first listened to the motor for any knocks or rumbles, remembering that air-cooled motors are noisy. The exhaust pipe was investigated for that healthy greyish color; and I looked for oil leaks, especially from between the motor and gearbox. An oily motor is like a magnet for dust and mud, and the clogging up of the cooling fins can have a disastrous effect. To check the gearbox, I pay close attention to third gear jumping out. It is usually the first to go if the gearbox is badly worn. I listened for whines through the gears and from the differential. A slight whine is common on vans, and if it is not too bad it will not affect reliability. I always check the clutch for slippage, although that is not a problem with too many 1600 vans. As far as the steering goes, I check the central steering pivot on the front of the bottom torsion bar. I also listen for noises in the steering box as they are prone to wear and are usually expensive to fix. It is hard to hide bad brakes and a driving test usually points up any problems, but it is good to check the inspection holes for the thickness of the shoes. At the same time look for fluid leakage from the master and wheel cylinders. The brake pad on the front disc brakes from 1971 on should be checked also. (Note: The quickest way I know to find out the year of a van is to check the chassis number situated just inside the engine bay on the lefthand side. The third number of the series is the last number of the year. For example, if the chassis number is 26487956, the model year is 1974.) After buying my van, a 1972 model, I was then faced with preparing it for the arduous journey. The most important part of prepping a vehicle is to have adequate information on the route planned and the probable conditions along the way. The van I bought had no side windows as the standard VW windows from that year are easily forced and lack adequate ventilation. I fitted one fixed window, and a sliding window (due to unavailability of the louvered type). I also added removable insect screens to all opening windows, including the front ones. Also, to allow opening of the rear and side doors, I added a curtain of insect screen attached to tracks so they would slide out of the way when not in use. On a long overland trip, one of the major problems is keeping the weight down in the van. To save some precious poundage, I manufactured the cupboards and bed from the lightest plywood I could find. To finish off the "camperising" of the interior, I fitted a small propane gas stove with two burners and griller and sink. Our water was carried in removeable jerry cans as we would often have to get water from sources a considerable distance from our van. One addition we found useful was a small, hand-pump-operated water filter set up over the sink which gave us sweet tasting water wherever we went. Although I fitted the van with vinyl flooring, I made the mistake of laying carpet over the top. The carpet didn't last a month, as in such a confined space it was impossible to keep clean. After discarding the carpet, we never had any problems with the vinyl, which we could just wipe clean. We carried with us a cassette player and lots of tapes. We also found that a small shortwave radio was quite useful to pick up news and music in the more isolated places. Because of the long distances we were to travel and the lack of fuel supplies in many places, we had to carry plenty of gas. From information we had received, we knew we would have to carry at least eight, five- gallon jerry cans. To handle this load - along with two spare tires and an assortment of other spares and equipment - we had to have an extra- heavy-duty roof rack specially made. The rack had no less than 12 support legs bolted to the guttering on the roof. We even managed to break a couple of these on one of the more horrifying tracks we traveled. One of the most important modificaitons I made to the van was to vent the air cleaner intake up through the top firewall into the interior. By taking the air for the motor from the relatively dust-free inside of the van, I save myself from cleaning the air filter so often, and I also reduced the chances of dust getting into the motor and doing damage. The Sahara crossing involved nearly 1500 miles of sand driving, so we carried an extra jack, a spade and two sand ladders. The sand ladders are just what their name implies - two, five-foot long steel ladders. By shoving them in front of the rear wheels they give the tires just that little bit of traction they need to get going again. Although we bogged down only five or six times in the whole Sahara, the ladders saved us many hours of pushing and digging. Air conditioning would have been nice in the African heat, but it is too much of a strain on the motor when you can least afford it. The VW motor needs considerable cooling in heat. To relieve some of the interior heat I knew we would face, I lined the bottom of our roof rack with ply to shade the roof, and I also lined the interior roof with carpet. It not only looked good but gave a fair amount of insulation. We knew, of course, that tires would be vital so we carried three spares. For the Sahara crossing we kept the original tires on, but they had a fairly fine tread and didn't dig into the sand. Bald wide radials are the cheapest and best bet for the desert. For the mud and rough roads of central and east Africa, we had a rear set of heavy mud and snow tires. On our entire trip we wore out no less than three complete sets of tires. As you have probably noticed, just about everything I did to the van was budget oriented. The reason for this is the simple fact that on a trip of the sort we were planning, there is no guarantee that we could be able to make it all the way through. There is also the chance that the vehicle would have to be abandoned outright. It is much easier to leave behind a couple of thousand dollars worth of van than one worth five or ten thousand. We met several people along the way who had to just walk away and leave their vehicles, usually due to military confiscation or political unrest. That would hurt! Naturally, we carried an abundance of spare parts and equipment, most of which we had to use at one time or another. The following is a list of the more important spares we took: second-hand cylinder head, second-hand cylinder head and piston, full gasket set, second-hand fuel pump, clutch disc, generator brushes and bearings, wheel bearings, fuel line, distributor cap and rotor arm, high-tension lead, ignition coil, throttle and clutch cables, two fan belts, three sets of points and condensers, motor and gear oil, grease, brake fluid, assorted nuts, bolts and split pins, and plenty of wire. For tools, we carried a metric socket set, open-end box wrenches, allen keys, vice-grips, hammer, a set of good screwdrivers, large and small adjustable wrenches, pliers, hand-operated drill and bits, grease gun, cold chisel, extra jack, tire pump, tire levers, tire pressure gauge, ax and shovel. We also took a good tow rope, wooden bases for the jacks, a first-aid kit, Epoxy glue, several inner tubes, anti-malaria tablets and water purification tablets. One thing we didn't take with us that we should have were shock absorbers. We wore out two complete sets along the way and the front set gave out halfway across the desert and had to be replaced at rip-off prices. (Note: If the shock absorbers you use are too heavy duty, the top mount at the rear has a habit of breaking off. This happened to us twice.) There are, of course, certain travel conditions that would receive a slightly different collection of tools and spare parts, but the above list should get a VW van anywhere you would like to go. I am now off to South America in another VW van, having learned from my Africa trip that you cannot be too prepared.