Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 14:41:16 -0800
Reply-To: Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <email@example.com>
From: Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: you job...
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Okay, first off, yes to your question at the end....
Second, You might not have to pull the cylinders....or the engine.!
I think all you need to do is pull the problem side, and replace the green
o-rings, the metal head gaskets, the black rubber gaskets and head nut
sealant... Read Boston Bob's essay on the job. (on his website). The
black o-ring at the base probably will hold up.....Not a huge gamble either
The reason, I think, Your coolant isn't getting sucked back out of the
overflow tank is because of the air in the system and leak in the head. So,
remove all the stuff around your head, drain the oil and the coolant, yank
the head (careful with the stuck cylinders), get the head serviced
(optional)--inspect the surfaces for pitting, replace the orings, replace
all the other gaskets with sealant on both sides of rubber, replace head,
TORQUE to SPECS, put engine pieces back on. Start-up and bleed coolant
Oh, back up, adjust valves to .006" lash. Don't follow Bentley. Follow
Boston Bob's article.
after all that, if it doesn't work, THEN yank the engine. But that should
do it, if the coolant was in the cylinder, not the crankcase (i'm sure
there's a little in the crankcase from slippping past the piston.)
Good Luck, happy trails, replace the water pump too.
>From: "Zoltan" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>To: "Brian Cochran" <email@example.com>
>Subject: Re: you job...
>Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:14:08 -0800
>I had a lot of water in the burning chamber. The engine would not turn
>anymore having so much water in there. When I took the plugs out and run
>the engine with the starter, all the water sprayed all over in that area.
>It is the left side where the water pump is. So I think it has to be the
>green, thin O-ring. Right? But now that I am taking out the engine I
>thought to change the bottom one too. Maybe I don't have to.
>Would I need to change things on the other side too or should I just leave
>it as it is.
>This car must have lost water somewhere and overheated creating some extra
>pressure that opened up the o-ring.
>Also there is something I don't understand well. When the water gets hot,
>there is pressure in the system, the expansion tank fills up. When it
>down it should pull that water back. In my case the water goes into the
>little tank, it fills it up and there is no return of water to the system.
>It just keeps on coming out into the expansion tank. Is it because the
>fault I have now? Will it be normal later? I hope so. That's why I'm
>doing all this...
>I did not quite get your explanation with the threaded rod.
>It seems like I don't have to thread it into the wrist pin but push it
>through and put a small nut on the end, the size that will pass through the
>circlip that is on the other side. Is that what you meant?
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Brian Cochran" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:50 AM
>Subject: Re: you job...
> > I'm bad with thread sizes.... go to a hardware store and by a foot long
> > thread rod... THe diameter of the rod was about 1/2", but that's not the
> > "size" they go by the dia. of the rod without the threads, I think.
> > cheap and you can return the wrong sizes..... Anyway, the nut must not
> > through the wrist pin, nor may it be too large where it gets hung up on
> > piston. I use a magnetic wand to hold the nut in place whilst I slip
> > rod through the pin. Then I slip some big sockets over the rod, place
> > washer and nut and tighen the nut, pulling the nut against the wrist
> > pin....something has to give....if you removed the circleclip, that
> > "something" should be the wrist pin (you're going through the water
> > inlet/ waterpump inlet here)
> > This is a big, big job.... How do you know it's the O-rings?
> > What mileage on the engine, headjob, waterpump, rings.?? I'm guessing
> > having the coolant in the crankcase and not the outside-ground. So
> > after the black o-rings on the base??
> > Email me or Give me a ring if you have more questions...
> > 425-333-6301
> > Brian
> > >From: "Zoltan" <email@example.com>
> > >To: "Brian Cochran" <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
> > >Subject: Re: you job...
> > >Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:23:58 -0800
> > >
> > >Brian,
> > >Thanks for answering my plea.
> > >OK, it means that I need to pull the engine since I want to change the
> > >O-rings on the cylinders.
> > >What is that special too that pulls the piston pin out? Is it one with
> > >some
> > >thread on it? If yes, what size of thread is it?
> > >OK, I don't have to take that tin off in the back. Now I see the book
> > >talk about it. Sorry.
> > >And now I know that tin won't interfere because the engine has to be
> > >lowered
> > >a little first before pulled back to disengage from the tranny.
> > >Those little things matter.
> > >Thanks again and sorry it I did not ask harder question.
> > >Zoltan
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Brian Cochran" <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
> > >To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > >Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 7:50 AM
> > >Subject: you job...
> > >
> > >
> > > > I'm lost with you messages....O-ring leak? Cylinder o-ring? how
> > > >
> > > > If your yanking the cylinders, the whole engine must come out.
> > > >
> > > > That rear engine tin comes out with the engine..... that way the oil
> > > > dipstick and oil filler need not be touched.
> > > > Brian Cochran
> > > > Carnation WA
> > > > _________________________________________________________________
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