Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:44:56 -0600
Reply-To: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: idle stablizer/its only another part (Good Info Here!)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I don't know about costs on the idle stabilizer control, but recently
someone postedn to the list a web site to a parts house that carried
some 2.1L Digifant related parts. I remember seeing a new ISV prices
at over $200, but they featured it at $160. That was brand new.
Thats still pricey, but better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!
Sorry, I don't remember who, or the web site, but that post showed up
here on the list in the last couple of weeks.
Robert Steven Fish wrote:
>It's only a part???
>A part that costs like 200 bucks new.
>
>My pal in Austria who is rather knowledgeable in these matters explained it
>so:
>
>Around June of 1988 the Idle Stabilizer Control Unit was upgraded. The old
>part numbers are:
>
>251 907 353 A for DJ motor code
>251 907 353 B for MV/SS/SR motor codes
>
>After mid 1988 the newer ones had the following codes:
>
>251 907 353 C for DJ motor code
>251 907 353 D for MV/SS/SR motor codes
>
>The newer version has apparently a feature whereby when you take your foot
>off the gas (when shifting etc) the engine revolutions do NOT drop instantly
>to the established idle RPM. Instead it sinks slowly, and pauses at 1100 RPM
>for a few seconds before returning to idle RPMs.
>
>The newer part also compensates for increased loads (A/C, extreme steers
>with power steering, automatic transmission, etc.) differently by adjusting
>the idle RPM to 1100 under load (instead of maintaining the established idle
>under load as the old unit did).
>
>He also says that you can test both idle stabilizer systems by simply
>starting the engine. If the idle stabilizer system is working, the idle
>should rise to 1500 RPM (the newer control unit holds it at 1500 a second
>or so longer) and then the idle should slowly sink, settling in to the
>established idle speed.
>
>The old units also have a voltage regulator is designed weaker, and due to
>carbonization over time, will not withstand the 430 +/- 20 mA and will burn
>out.
>
>Another test you can perform is to bridge the power steering contacts in the
>pressure switch, and you should notice an increase in RPM of approx. 200
>RPM.
>
>Thank you to Harold H. for this great info!!
>
>There is more (and it gets way too technical for me) to read at the address
>below about the entire digifant system:
>
>http://insel.heim.at/madeira/341126/FAQ_Ruckeln_mypage.html
>
>Unfortunately it is in German.
>
>(If I am lucky I may be able to get a hold of the schmatic for it, and then
>we can all rebuild ours!!)
>
>Enjoy!
>
>RSF
>
>IMPORTANT!!! In order to reply to me, you must have the word "FISH"
>somewhere in the subject line of the email. Otherwise it goes directly in
>the trash.
>
><º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{
>
>Robert S. Fish
>Salzburg, Austria
>1987 Wolfsburg Vanagon 2.1 GL Weekender
>1987 Golf Cabriolet
>1991 Golf
>
>
>
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