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Date:         Sat, 21 Jun 2003 17:43:53 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: keeps blowin' fuses
Comments: To: Dave Cromwell <tortugasmarinas@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <20030621172229.33705.qmail@web11106.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 01:22 PM 6/21/2003, Dave Cromwell wrote:

>This works well, except as soon as I shut the fan off the 16amp fuse pops ! >I guess I could put the hot wire on the lower speed of the radiator fan, >but that isn't as efficient and the engine still heats up a little.

Send me a diagram of how it's wired...sounds like something is getting a big inductive kick. If you've just added something to the wiring in Bentley, I have that.

>it. I put in a separate toggle switch so I could start the high speed >radiator fan while I'm still on the flat to keep it from overheating.

I don't understand -- there's an automatic system to take care of this. Temp goes up, the fan comes on. Temp goes up more, fan cranks up. The system is designed to give noticeable movement of the gauge between stages -- there's not a problem unless you've got the high-speed fan running and the temp is still going up. You don't lose anything that I can see by letting the system take care of itself like every other car on the road since 1930-something, and I don't think you gain anything to speak of by starting early -- you cool the radiator down and the engine thermostat simply closes off the flow from the radiator -- aside from cooling down the water in the radiator which I think is minor. Lessee...

Suppose the radiator holds two gallons, assume heat capacity same as water (it's really less). Two gallons is 16lb, so cooling it off by 100 F will get you 1600 BTU, or about 500 watt-hours.

Suppose engine puts out 44 Hp, or 60 kilowatts. Assuming 1/3 efficiency it's rejecting 120 kW as heat. I found a study using an Alfa Romeo engine where the engine output was 33 KW and heat rejection into the coolant was 25 kW, so I think it's fair to double that for your 60 KW engine running flat out; therefor somewhat over 40 kW being rejected by the radiator. So it's putting out 40 kWh per hour, or 500 watt-hours every 45 seconds. So 500 watt-hours could be significant or not, I guess.

But that still leaves the question of why it should be necessary in the first place. Answer: it shouldn't. The Vanagon has a cooling system with large capacity; if it's working right it should be able to handle even extraordinarily adverse conditions and considerably larger engines. If it's not working right then it needs fixing, not a band-aid switch...

YMMV -- I guess. :-)

d

-- David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation"


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